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msgSender linesSubject
1 Trinitee@aol.com 1695 loaded Discovery for sale
2 Franz.Parzefall@Physik.T34Some Engine Questions
3 azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo21Re: RR tyres
4 "KING.B.P" [BE3_036@civl47 Purchase
5 "Richard M. Platkin" [pl24Winch & Brushbar for Disco
6 Alan Richer [Alan_Richer14Dumb question: Audio install in a SII?
7 Ray Harder [ccray@showme46Mid-AM SIII 88 for sale...
8 srbrown@sair020.energyla80Weber Carburetor Adjustments: Here's How!
9 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em19Re: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII?
10 Fraser.Young@EEC-ISD.eec63Re: Disco tire pressures
11 "S.W.Brierley" [S.W.Brie28Scum Of the earth unite.
12 "S.W.Brierley" [S.W.Brie28Scum Of the earth unite.
13 Jon Humphrey [jh5r+@andr31Re: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII?
14 brabyn@skivs.ski.org (Jo19Re: Winch & Brushbar for Disco
15 "MARK C. RITTER" [70472.15Disco wheels and tires
16 "Russell G. Dushin" [dus18Re: Heaters
17 Frederick_O._Ellsworth@b25Floor Mats
18 Frederick_O._Ellsworth@b35Tune-up Questions
19 gpool@pacific.pacific.ne34Re: 109 stuff needed...


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From: Trinitee@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 05:18:29 -0400
Subject: 95 loaded Discovery for sale

Hi there,
            Due to circumstances beyound my control, I have to part with my
brank spankin new 95 Discovery. If you are seriously interested  please email
me at Trinitee@AOL.com. I haven't taken it off road yet so it is still a
virgin. I live in Dallas and I'm  asking $34,000 for this beauty. Specs are:

  95 Discovery;5k miles;  Black; Auto; AC; Rear AC; leather seats incl rear
jumpseats; dual sunroofs; brush bar; rear lamp guards; factory loadspace
rubber mat; factory rubber floor mats; shop manual. Serious inquires only.
Thanks/ Trinitee

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From: Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE
Subject: Some Engine Questions
Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 11:29:59 +0200 (MET DST)

Hi all
I'm still not sure what Land Rover to buy. Those Series ones look nice,
but what bothers me is their fuel consumption (I don't own a filling
station nor my Pa ;-). So I'm thinking of getting one with a swapped diesel
engine, doing the swap myselve or getting me a D90 tdi (with is
awfully expensive for one who has just finished with university)

-Has anyone done an engine conversion and can tell me how much
work this is and what has to be done?

-Does anyone have information about 'european' engine swap kits
(eg. Mercedes-Benz, Peugeot or whatever)?

-Converting a Serie LR to the TDi will not be too easy, due to the
nearly double power and torque - Right?

-Can somebody tell me anything about the TD (not the TDi) engine?
This seems to have been fitted to earlier Defenders before the TDi
came. Since yet I coudn't get any information about this.

Thanks
Franz

P.S. If you know about a 88 or 90 on sale in the 'nearer' range
(I'mlocated in Southern Germany) please tell me.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall     fparzefa@physik.tu-muenchen.de
---------------------------------------------------------------

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From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re:  RR tyres
Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 10:39:34 UNDEFINED

\Am very unhappy with my replacement set of Michelin original equipment type
\tires (205 R 16) on my 1988 Range Rover.   They are about 3 years old with
\about 28,000 miles. Decent tread remaining.   About 98% of those miles are
\purely road miles.    Sidewalls show excessive (seems to me) cracking.    One

\expect Michelin to stand behind this?    Any reccomendations for replacements
\of a different brand?   Perhaps a little larger,  huskier tire?   Truck is
\used daily and mostly on the road.    Help and suggestions appreciated.

My 90 gets similar use. I use Goodyear Wranglers.   Mine have 45k on em and 
look good for another 10-20k yet. I'll be buying more.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

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From: "KING.B.P" <BE3_036@civl.port.ac.uk>
Date:          Fri, 26 May 1995 13:32:19 BST
Subject:       Purchase

Hi folks, it's good to have the list up and running again.

I have been reading the list for some time now, but thought it about 
time I spoke up.  I have been a Land-Rover fan for many years now, 
but due to finances had not been able to afford one.  Now as I 
graduate in the summer (with a bit of luck) I am seriously 
considering purchase of a Series III.  

Now comes the part where you experts out there can assist me, I still 
can't afford to purchase a mint condition example and so am bound to 
have to carry out some work on the beast.  I have had a reasonable 
amount of experience of working on engines, through helping my dad on 
his cars, and I have a cousin who can do welding for me, so I was 
wondering, do I  

 1) Go for a vehicle with a solid chasis and bulkhead and not worry 
excessively about the condition of the mechanicals as long as they 
are all there and repairable, or

 2) Aim for a vehicle with excellent mechanicals and not worry about 
some chasis or bulkhead corrosion, eg replacing the rear crossmember 
or a couple of outriggers, as long as the main rails are intact.  

Your opinions on this will be greatly appreciated.  

Whilst I'm on I'll just mention that I'm looking at a 2,25 petrol, 
since I have limited faith in the diesel equivalent, several of my 
friends have run these units, and they haven't proven very reliable, 
powerful, or frugal on fuel, not to mention servicing costs.  

Well I'd better stop wasting bandwidth now 

Cheers for any hints

B.P.King
Barry P King
Student
Dept Civil Engineering
University of Portsmouth

BE3_036@civl.port.ac.uk

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From: "Richard M. Platkin" <platkr@rpi.edu>
Subject: Winch & Brushbar for Disco
Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 09:14:26 -0400 (EDT)

  Anyone have any experience with the Land Rover
brush bar/Warn winch combo for the Discovery?
I was quoted a price of almost $2000 by Rovers North,
but this seems pretty steep.  I've been trying
to get some info on this product from my dealer
and from LRNA, but my dealer won't acknowledge
that this product exists, and all LRNA can tell
me is that it does exist. 

 I understand that the brush-bar/winch combo
has been certified to work with the SRS/airbag
system in the Disco.  Does anyone know of any 
other setups so certified?   Does it matter?
Some people have told me that the type of 
brush-bar you use would not affect the 
airbag setup. 

  Any info would be appreciated.

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From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 26 May 95  9:52:24 EDT
Subject: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII?

I know, I know....dumb question.

If one were insane enough to want an audio system of some sort in
a Series IIa, where's the best place to put it? Obviously, the
firewall area is RIGHT OUT,  as is the underdash area presently
occupied by my Kodiak heater. Any good ideas?

     ajr

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Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 09:01:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: Mid-AM SIII 88 for sale...

I was his "elmer", you see.  Its an old amateur radio term for
someone "in the hobby" giving all sorts of information and
guidance to a newcomer.  Mark wanted a rover really bad, or
so he told me.  I lent him all my literature and he read
every page twice, or so he said.  That made things worse, and
we talked for hours about rovers and how badly he wanted one.

I told him that the only one I knew of within driving distance
was overpriced, but had potential.  The PO wanted $3k, but if
it could be bought "in the low-teens", then it was a contender.  
He was so excited that he drove down the next day and bought it 
for $1k.  Bought some new parts, like a gastank and some other 
stuff,too.

Took off the front fenders the first week he had it so he could
start the "restoration" project.  It languished for 6 weeks or
so "...'cause of finals coming up...".  I drove/bicycled by
several times to see the progress, but there wasn't any.

Got the call last night and I was really disappointed.  He was
moving to Chicago and "felt he couldn't take the rover".  I 
invested some time which is ok, but I am loosing one of the few
local rover fans I have to verbalize with.  Anyway:

Location:  mid-Missouri
FOR SALE:  1973 (or thereabouts) white SIII 88.  Has been
           setting for about 5 years.  Frame/bulkhead ok,
           has had rear crosspiece replaced -- frame needs
           painting.  Coachwork mostly straight,
           needs buffing.  Interior average.  Heads have been
           converted to nolead.  Small winch (junk).  Overdrive.
           must be towed.  Safari top. Some new parts.  
           Asking $1k.

Email or call to discuss.

Ray Harder  314-445-7725 (home, recorder)
            314-882-0521 (work)

PS.  You can't (maybe you can) imagine the anguish this is
     causing in my family unit.

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From: srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov
Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 08:10:56 -0600
Subject: Weber Carburetor Adjustments: Here's How!

Having seen two requests for info on adjustment of Weber carburetors
in the last few days, and having just installed one on my `63 IIa
(I've still got the manual!), here goes:

This is specific to a 1 bbl Weber replacement "economy" carburetor
jetted for Landrover 2286cc by Weber (it is a 34-ICH). (By the way I
get about 15 mpg with this thing -- much better than the to 10 mpg from
the kludged Rochester from an old Jeep it had before, but worse than
my old `67 109 with a Solex (sometimes up to 20 mpg) -- better power
than both though!). As you may know, these carbs were used on lots of
vehicles, they can be adjusted for each type by replacing the proper
jets, etc. My father in law has a Weber Book describing all of these
adjustments and modifications in detail -- he was able to adapt a
Weber 2bbl from a Ford Pinto to an Opel GT with jets purchased from
a speed shop in california (called Crazy Larry's or some such).

Here's the info from the Weber Landrover Installation instructions:

Calibration:

ITEM				Part #				Size

Main choke			........			27
Auxiliary venturi		70311350			35
Main jet			73801165			165
air corrector			77201190			190
emulsion tube			61440211			F6
idle jet			74409050			50
pump jet			76407055			55
pump back bleed			79701040			40
needle valve			79531175			175

Float Level (with gasket) 7mm +- 0.25

MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS

1. Start engine and maintain approximately 1200 rpm until normal
operating temperature is attained and the choke can be fully returned.

2. Set engine idle speed to approximately 850 rpm, by adjusting the
throttle stop screw.

3. Adjust idle mixture screw to obtain the highest engine speed.

4. repeat steps 2 and 3 as necessary so that the highest attainable
engine speed by adjusting the mixture screw is 850 rpm.

5. The final adjustment is made by turning the mixture screw
approximately half turn clockwise to weaken the mixture and so obtain
the exhaust emission value of CO 2.5-3.0% Vol. The engine speed should
now stabilize at approximately 800 rpm.

THAT'S IT!

In one of the messages, one fellow's vehicle had failed emissions --
he then asked (among other things) what the point dwell angle should
be. I enquired from British Pacific about this once, the fellow put me
on hold and called a mechanic friend of his, the value he quoted was
57-63 degrees. I carefully adjusted my points with a feeler gage and
then checked the dwell immediately after and, BINGO, 60 degrees!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 /==============\
 | `63  |  IIa  |          Stephen Brown
 |______|_______| 	   Geomechanics Department, MS-0751
 /___/^^^^^^\___\9	   Sandia National Laboratories
 |oo|(@)##(@)|oo|	   Albuquerque, New Mexico 87185
 |  | [####] |  |
 ======%%%%======	   email: srbrown@sandia.gov
 {*}={&&}====={*}
 {*}          {*}
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 10:46:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII?

On 26 May 1995, Alan Richer wrote:

> If one were insane enough to want an audio system of some sort in
> a Series IIa, where's the best place to put it? Obviously, the
> firewall area is RIGHT OUT,  as is the underdash area presently
> occupied by my Kodiak heater. Any good ideas?

	Assuming it is not a 109 Station Wagon, a number of people
	hide stereo units, CB's, ham equipment behind the middle seat
	mounter vertically.  Out of sight there.

	Rgds,

	Dixon

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From: Fraser.Young@EEC-ISD.eecal.sprint.com
Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 10:27:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Disco tire pressures

Robert A. Virzi asked the following:

>I've got a question about the recommended tire pressures for on-road travel
>in Disco's.  According to the manual, front tires should be inflated to 26
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>have been the tires with suggested >higher< pressures.  So what's the 
>reasoning behind the recommended pressures?

The tyre pressures quoted in the LR user handbooks are the 'All Load' tyre 
pressures i.e a pressure that allows you to travel fully loaded (GVW) on the 
highway. You will find, usually in the workshop manual, a paragraph headed 'For 
greater comfort at part load' which gives details of a lower tyre pressure 
allowable for the rear tyres. You have to remember that to allow for owner 
ignorance LR quote a tyre pressure which will be safe under all conditions, and 
put the detailed info in the more technical literature.

In the LR published book 'The Land Rover Experience' (Part No. STC8755) there 
is a table which gives the allowable pressures for all the recommended sizes 
of tyre that are fitted to LR vehicles.

The following are taken from the above book:-

Discovery - tyre pressure in bars(psi)
--------------------------------------

These are described as being suitable for Hard-road use (to max speed)

Tyre Size/Brand                         Front/Rear 
---------------                         ---------- 
Michelin 205R16 XM+S 244 TL     Kerb    1.9(27)/2.2(32)
                                GVW     1.9(27)/2.6(38)

Michelin 235/70R16 4x4 TL       Kerb    1.8(26)/2.0(29)
                                GVW     1.8(26)/2.3(33)

Goodyear Eagle GT+4 235/70R16   Kerb    1.8(26)/2.0(29)
                                GVW     1.8(26)/2.3(33)

etc....

The differences are more extreme with the likes of the Defender 110:-

Michelin 7.50R16 X 4x4          Kerb    1.8(26)/2.0(29)
                                GVW     1.9(27)/3.3(48)

The table continues with recommended pressures for tracks and poor roads (max 
speed 40mph) and emergency flotation (max speed 12mph)

I hope the above is of interest, remember to check the above figures in case 
I've made a typo.

Cheers

Fraser Young
1995 Defender 110 CSW
1973 Lightweight
Aberdeen, Scotland

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Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 16:28:48 +0100
From: "S.W.Brierley" <S.W.Brierley@dl.ac.uk>
Subject: Scum Of the earth unite.

Hi Folks,

I have noticed that i am become increasingly disliked
by certain groups of people, and my crime????,
well, owning a Land rover of course.
Let me see, ........
The environmentalists hate me because its a ser III
with a dirty great gas guzzling V8 (14-15 Mpg) that
pollutes the atmosphere.
Land owners hate me because I constantly tear around
the countryside ripping up your trees and killing
small animals.... alledgedly.!!
And now, parents hate me because I possess a set of
child killing train lines bolted to the front of
my vehicle.
So there we have it, a mild mannered, semi well
educated good to citizen has turned in to a heathen
just by purchasing a lanny........COOL!!!!
I would'nt part with it for the world.
Only kidding guys, hope it didn't offend to many
people, its just that i'm getting paranoid now!!.

Stu.

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Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 16:28:48 +0100
From: "S.W.Brierley" <S.W.Brierley@dl.ac.uk>
Subject: Scum Of the earth unite.

Hi Folks,

I have noticed that i am become increasingly disliked
by certain groups of people, and my crime????,
well, owning a Land rover of course.
Let me see, ........
The environmentalists hate me because its a ser III
with a dirty great gas guzzling V8 (14-15 Mpg) that
pollutes the atmosphere.
Land owners hate me because I constantly tear around
the countryside ripping up your trees and killing
small animals.... alledgedly.!!
And now, parents hate me because I possess a set of
child killing train lines bolted to the front of
my vehicle.
So there we have it, a mild mannered, semi well
educated good to citizen has turned in to a heathen
just by purchasing a lanny........COOL!!!!
I would'nt part with it for the world.
Only kidding guys, hope it didn't offend to many
people, its just that i'm getting paranoid now!!.

Stu.

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Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 12:02:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII?

Alan, I just installed a radio/tape player in my lla pickup.
I used a white lexan light cover about 12" long x 4" high x 5" deep.
Drilled holes to mount the radio thru the front and then mounted an
"|~~~~ " or L shaped bracket to the cover so it just slips over the top
of the lip on the upper dash shelf. It hooks on there and is self
supporting and cantilevers the radio far enough out from the bulkhead to
permit all the wires and stuff to be hidden.
That probably sounds pretty confusing but the trick is to get the back
of the radio away from the bulkhead. It is very strong and the bumps
don't bother it.
This also looks pretty neat.
                       
                       ~~~|
                          |______________
                                         |<---- Light cover
                         ________________|
                         |  Radio        |--
                         |_______________|
                                         |
     Hook---> |~~~~~~~~~   ______________|
              |           |
              |        ___|
                |~~~~|
                |    |<---Dash or top shelf side view of the round part
               
                 

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Date: Fri, 26 May 95 09:48:08 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  Winch & Brushbar for Disco

Glad to hear there is finally a winch mount for the North American
airbag Discoveries. Is ther one for the airbag Range Rovers yet?

I assume the difference it makes whether or not the setup is designed
to work with airbags may be such factors as a brushbar preventing the 
airbag sensors from being triggered? I guess the certified ones 
must have soft spots in them or something so the sensors can be
triggered when you hit something. This is purely speculation
on my part.

Cheers

JOhn Brabyn
89RR

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Date: 26 May 95 14:32:12 EDT
From: "MARK C. RITTER" <70472.1130@compuserve.com>
Subject: Disco wheels and tires

After asking many questions of Rover-net I'm now ready to give some answers. I
recently bouught 4 steel disco wheels in England and have now fitted them with
Cooper Discoverer STT radials size 225-75-16. This combination works great off
road and swaps with the stock alloys in 25 minutes. The Coopers are not much
louder on road and once off the pavement they provide my disco with tanklike
traction. I have been at full suspension travel with NO clearence problems as
the Coopers are within 1/4 inch diameter of the stock Michelins. The only
problem I am having is that I like the look of the Disco so much with the white
steel wheels and mud tires that I can't bring myself to put the alloys back on!
Mark Ritter   94 Disco

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From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: Heaters
Date: Fri, 26 May 95 15:21:07 EDT

> There're at least 3 different Kodiak heaters out there...
> The early type has the air intake next to the grill, a long hose 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> (Totally lost on non USA folks...I hope..)
> 	I've seen this heater on vehicle up to 1966.....

Our '67 farm rig (aka RoverRoach) has one of these....could have
been a leftover '66 I suppose, but was always registered as a '67.

Now, let's see what Carroll Merroll has behind door number 2.....

rd/nige

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From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth)
Subject: Floor Mats
Date: 26 May 1995 23:17:29 GMT

Just wanted to get a last word in on floor mats.  

Any Rover owners in the Seattle area can check out BOEING SURPLUS in South
Seattle.  Its where the Boeing Co. gets rid of everything they don't need
anymore or have too much of (i.e. LOTS!!!).  Among a multitude of other cool,
useful and really cheap stuff they usually have full 1/4 inch thick solid
rubber industrial matting, with v-groove top and flat bottom, for $0.20/lb. 
(They keep rubber products in bins along the wall in the ouside back lot.) 
The width is the same as the back of an 88".  It's heavy, probably 35 or 40
pounds to do an entire Rover, but it will never wear out and is easy to
clean.

I made front floor mats, storage compartment mat, battery mat, and liners for
several tool chests for $6.00.  

Fred Ellsworth
'71 IIA 88"

PS  Its easy to cut with a utility knife - the floor mats look factory made.

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From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth)
Subject: Tune-up Questions
Date: 26 May 1995 22:57:24 GMT

Howdy All!!

I'm a fairly new Rover owner having just purchased a '71 Series IIA 88" about
7 months ago.  It was great over the winter (alot better than my last British
car, a '57 TR-3) and we've been having a blast with it.  
However, I've started a spring tune-up and have a few questions:
1)  What exactly is the correct idle speed and ignition timing (8:1
compression ratio)?  The factory shop manual says one thing and the emissions
plate on the radiator panel says something completely different.  Neither
seems perfect but the emission settings suck.  I set the timing by ear when I
first got it but it's always idled very rough.  Is this normal? 

2)  I figured the rough idle may be due to an incorrect mixture setting (its
got the Zenith carb).  However, the adjustment screw seems to have very
little effect on anything.  As far as I can tell it's all the way closed
right now and backing it off even four or five turns doesn't do much at all. 
Is this normal?  

3)  I had the transmission rebuilt at DAP in Vermont 6-8 weeks ago when
reverse gear blew out.  Since I put the tranny back in it seems to buck and
shudder quite a bit when starting in first gear from a stop.  It doesn't do
this every time and maybe its just me getting used to the vehicle again (I
was out of town for a couple weeks and driving all sorts of different, boring
cars).  Assuming its NOT me, what could be causing this?  

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Fred Ellsworth
'71 IIA 88"  

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Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 22:29:20 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool)
Subject: Re: 109 stuff needed...

David,

>Hello all, I am searching for a "placard" (where the vehicle ID is
>located) for a 1970 IIa 109. It would need to be blank, so I could add
>the number to it. Anyone know of any sources?

Available, at least in some styles, if not the "correct" style for that year
and model, from British Pacific in Burbank, CA.

>Also, I need shocks for a 1970 109 S/W safari top. Does anyone have any
>recommendations? How about part numbers? Nobody seems to list the "109"
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>downward axle travel? Each of mine has one side missing or broken.
>Should I replace before doing any serious off road travel?

There have been long threads on this subject and folks seem evenly divided
about whether they are a good or bad thing.  I have a brand new set to
install and now don't want to install them because I'm convinced that they
limit articulation.  Others are convinced that without them your
driveshaft's sliding splines wiill slip apart or brake lines break.  This
could probably be tested without damage at home.  I've done hella-serious
off-roading without them and never had any problems.

Cheers,

Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, CA
<gpool@pacific.pacific.net>
(707)485-7220 (home)   (707)463-4265 (work)
'73 Land-Rover 88, more LRs, Austin Champ, BMW 3.0si, Peugeot 505 Turbo...

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