[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Trinitee@aol.com | 16 | 95 loaded Discovery for sale |
2 | Franz.Parzefall@Physik.T | 34 | Some Engine Questions |
3 | azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo | 21 | Re: RR tyres |
4 | "KING.B.P" [BE3_036@civl | 47 | Purchase |
5 | "Richard M. Platkin" [pl | 24 | Winch & Brushbar for Disco |
6 | Alan Richer [Alan_Richer | 14 | Dumb question: Audio install in a SII? |
7 | Ray Harder [ccray@showme | 46 | Mid-AM SIII 88 for sale... |
8 | srbrown@sair020.energyla | 80 | Weber Carburetor Adjustments: Here's How! |
9 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 19 | Re: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII? |
10 | Fraser.Young@EEC-ISD.eec | 63 | Re: Disco tire pressures |
11 | "S.W.Brierley" [S.W.Brie | 28 | Scum Of the earth unite. |
12 | "S.W.Brierley" [S.W.Brie | 28 | Scum Of the earth unite. |
13 | Jon Humphrey [jh5r+@andr | 31 | Re: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII? |
14 | brabyn@skivs.ski.org (Jo | 19 | Re: Winch & Brushbar for Disco |
15 | "MARK C. RITTER" [70472. | 15 | Disco wheels and tires |
16 | "Russell G. Dushin" [dus | 18 | Re: Heaters |
17 | Frederick_O._Ellsworth@b | 25 | Floor Mats |
18 | Frederick_O._Ellsworth@b | 35 | Tune-up Questions |
19 | gpool@pacific.pacific.ne | 34 | Re: 109 stuff needed... |
From: Trinitee@aol.com Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 05:18:29 -0400 Subject: 95 loaded Discovery for sale Hi there, Due to circumstances beyound my control, I have to part with my brank spankin new 95 Discovery. If you are seriously interested please email me at Trinitee@AOL.com. I haven't taken it off road yet so it is still a virgin. I live in Dallas and I'm asking $34,000 for this beauty. Specs are: 95 Discovery;5k miles; Black; Auto; AC; Rear AC; leather seats incl rear jumpseats; dual sunroofs; brush bar; rear lamp guards; factory loadspace rubber mat; factory rubber floor mats; shop manual. Serious inquires only. Thanks/ Trinitee ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE Subject: Some Engine Questions Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 11:29:59 +0200 (MET DST) Hi all I'm still not sure what Land Rover to buy. Those Series ones look nice, but what bothers me is their fuel consumption (I don't own a filling station nor my Pa ;-). So I'm thinking of getting one with a swapped diesel engine, doing the swap myselve or getting me a D90 tdi (with is awfully expensive for one who has just finished with university) -Has anyone done an engine conversion and can tell me how much work this is and what has to be done? -Does anyone have information about 'european' engine swap kits (eg. Mercedes-Benz, Peugeot or whatever)? -Converting a Serie LR to the TDi will not be too easy, due to the nearly double power and torque - Right? -Can somebody tell me anything about the TD (not the TDi) engine? This seems to have been fitted to earlier Defenders before the TDi came. Since yet I coudn't get any information about this. Thanks Franz P.S. If you know about a 88 or 90 on sale in the 'nearer' range (I'mlocated in Southern Germany) please tell me. --------------------------------------------------------------- Franz Parzefall fparzefa@physik.tu-muenchen.de --------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Re: RR tyres Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 10:39:34 UNDEFINED \Am very unhappy with my replacement set of Michelin original equipment type \tires (205 R 16) on my 1988 Range Rover. They are about 3 years old with \about 28,000 miles. Decent tread remaining. About 98% of those miles are \purely road miles. Sidewalls show excessive (seems to me) cracking. One \expect Michelin to stand behind this? Any reccomendations for replacements \of a different brand? Perhaps a little larger, huskier tire? Truck is \used daily and mostly on the road. Help and suggestions appreciated. My 90 gets similar use. I use Goodyear Wranglers. Mine have 45k on em and look good for another 10-20k yet. I'll be buying more. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway +++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "KING.B.P" <BE3_036@civl.port.ac.uk> Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 13:32:19 BST Subject: Purchase Hi folks, it's good to have the list up and running again. I have been reading the list for some time now, but thought it about time I spoke up. I have been a Land-Rover fan for many years now, but due to finances had not been able to afford one. Now as I graduate in the summer (with a bit of luck) I am seriously considering purchase of a Series III. Now comes the part where you experts out there can assist me, I still can't afford to purchase a mint condition example and so am bound to have to carry out some work on the beast. I have had a reasonable amount of experience of working on engines, through helping my dad on his cars, and I have a cousin who can do welding for me, so I was wondering, do I 1) Go for a vehicle with a solid chasis and bulkhead and not worry excessively about the condition of the mechanicals as long as they are all there and repairable, or 2) Aim for a vehicle with excellent mechanicals and not worry about some chasis or bulkhead corrosion, eg replacing the rear crossmember or a couple of outriggers, as long as the main rails are intact. Your opinions on this will be greatly appreciated. Whilst I'm on I'll just mention that I'm looking at a 2,25 petrol, since I have limited faith in the diesel equivalent, several of my friends have run these units, and they haven't proven very reliable, powerful, or frugal on fuel, not to mention servicing costs. Well I'd better stop wasting bandwidth now Cheers for any hints B.P.King Barry P King Student Dept Civil Engineering University of Portsmouth BE3_036@civl.port.ac.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard M. Platkin" <platkr@rpi.edu> Subject: Winch & Brushbar for Disco Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 09:14:26 -0400 (EDT) Anyone have any experience with the Land Rover brush bar/Warn winch combo for the Discovery? I was quoted a price of almost $2000 by Rovers North, but this seems pretty steep. I've been trying to get some info on this product from my dealer and from LRNA, but my dealer won't acknowledge that this product exists, and all LRNA can tell me is that it does exist. I understand that the brush-bar/winch combo has been certified to work with the SRS/airbag system in the Disco. Does anyone know of any other setups so certified? Does it matter? Some people have told me that the type of brush-bar you use would not affect the airbag setup. Any info would be appreciated. ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 26 May 95 9:52:24 EDT Subject: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII? I know, I know....dumb question. If one were insane enough to want an audio system of some sort in a Series IIa, where's the best place to put it? Obviously, the firewall area is RIGHT OUT, as is the underdash area presently occupied by my Kodiak heater. Any good ideas? ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 09:01:06 -0500 (CDT) From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu> Subject: Mid-AM SIII 88 for sale... I was his "elmer", you see. Its an old amateur radio term for someone "in the hobby" giving all sorts of information and guidance to a newcomer. Mark wanted a rover really bad, or so he told me. I lent him all my literature and he read every page twice, or so he said. That made things worse, and we talked for hours about rovers and how badly he wanted one. I told him that the only one I knew of within driving distance was overpriced, but had potential. The PO wanted $3k, but if it could be bought "in the low-teens", then it was a contender. He was so excited that he drove down the next day and bought it for $1k. Bought some new parts, like a gastank and some other stuff,too. Took off the front fenders the first week he had it so he could start the "restoration" project. It languished for 6 weeks or so "...'cause of finals coming up...". I drove/bicycled by several times to see the progress, but there wasn't any. Got the call last night and I was really disappointed. He was moving to Chicago and "felt he couldn't take the rover". I invested some time which is ok, but I am loosing one of the few local rover fans I have to verbalize with. Anyway: Location: mid-Missouri FOR SALE: 1973 (or thereabouts) white SIII 88. Has been setting for about 5 years. Frame/bulkhead ok, has had rear crosspiece replaced -- frame needs painting. Coachwork mostly straight, needs buffing. Interior average. Heads have been converted to nolead. Small winch (junk). Overdrive. must be towed. Safari top. Some new parts. Asking $1k. Email or call to discuss. Ray Harder 314-445-7725 (home, recorder) 314-882-0521 (work) PS. You can't (maybe you can) imagine the anguish this is causing in my family unit. ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 08:10:56 -0600 Subject: Weber Carburetor Adjustments: Here's How! Having seen two requests for info on adjustment of Weber carburetors in the last few days, and having just installed one on my `63 IIa (I've still got the manual!), here goes: This is specific to a 1 bbl Weber replacement "economy" carburetor jetted for Landrover 2286cc by Weber (it is a 34-ICH). (By the way I get about 15 mpg with this thing -- much better than the to 10 mpg from the kludged Rochester from an old Jeep it had before, but worse than my old `67 109 with a Solex (sometimes up to 20 mpg) -- better power than both though!). As you may know, these carbs were used on lots of vehicles, they can be adjusted for each type by replacing the proper jets, etc. My father in law has a Weber Book describing all of these adjustments and modifications in detail -- he was able to adapt a Weber 2bbl from a Ford Pinto to an Opel GT with jets purchased from a speed shop in california (called Crazy Larry's or some such). Here's the info from the Weber Landrover Installation instructions: Calibration: ITEM Part # Size Main choke ........ 27 Auxiliary venturi 70311350 35 Main jet 73801165 165 air corrector 77201190 190 emulsion tube 61440211 F6 idle jet 74409050 50 pump jet 76407055 55 pump back bleed 79701040 40 needle valve 79531175 175 Float Level (with gasket) 7mm +- 0.25 MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS 1. Start engine and maintain approximately 1200 rpm until normal operating temperature is attained and the choke can be fully returned. 2. Set engine idle speed to approximately 850 rpm, by adjusting the throttle stop screw. 3. Adjust idle mixture screw to obtain the highest engine speed. 4. repeat steps 2 and 3 as necessary so that the highest attainable engine speed by adjusting the mixture screw is 850 rpm. 5. The final adjustment is made by turning the mixture screw approximately half turn clockwise to weaken the mixture and so obtain the exhaust emission value of CO 2.5-3.0% Vol. The engine speed should now stabilize at approximately 800 rpm. THAT'S IT! In one of the messages, one fellow's vehicle had failed emissions -- he then asked (among other things) what the point dwell angle should be. I enquired from British Pacific about this once, the fellow put me on hold and called a mechanic friend of his, the value he quoted was 57-63 degrees. I carefully adjusted my points with a feeler gage and then checked the dwell immediately after and, BINGO, 60 degrees! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ /==============\ | `63 | IIa | Stephen Brown |______|_______| Geomechanics Department, MS-0751 /___/^^^^^^\___\9 Sandia National Laboratories |oo|(@)##(@)|oo| Albuquerque, New Mexico 87185 | | [####] | | ======%%%%====== email: srbrown@sandia.gov {*}={&&}====={*} {*} {*} ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 10:46:57 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> Subject: Re: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII? On 26 May 1995, Alan Richer wrote: > If one were insane enough to want an audio system of some sort in > a Series IIa, where's the best place to put it? Obviously, the > firewall area is RIGHT OUT, as is the underdash area presently > occupied by my Kodiak heater. Any good ideas? Assuming it is not a 109 Station Wagon, a number of people hide stereo units, CB's, ham equipment behind the middle seat mounter vertically. Out of sight there. Rgds, Dixon ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Fraser.Young@EEC-ISD.eecal.sprint.com Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 10:27:00 -0400 Subject: Re: Disco tire pressures Robert A. Virzi asked the following: >I've got a question about the recommended tire pressures for on-road travel >in Disco's. According to the manual, front tires should be inflated to 26 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >have been the tires with suggested >higher< pressures. So what's the >reasoning behind the recommended pressures? The tyre pressures quoted in the LR user handbooks are the 'All Load' tyre pressures i.e a pressure that allows you to travel fully loaded (GVW) on the highway. You will find, usually in the workshop manual, a paragraph headed 'For greater comfort at part load' which gives details of a lower tyre pressure allowable for the rear tyres. You have to remember that to allow for owner ignorance LR quote a tyre pressure which will be safe under all conditions, and put the detailed info in the more technical literature. In the LR published book 'The Land Rover Experience' (Part No. STC8755) there is a table which gives the allowable pressures for all the recommended sizes of tyre that are fitted to LR vehicles. The following are taken from the above book:- Discovery - tyre pressure in bars(psi) -------------------------------------- These are described as being suitable for Hard-road use (to max speed) Tyre Size/Brand Front/Rear --------------- ---------- Michelin 205R16 XM+S 244 TL Kerb 1.9(27)/2.2(32) GVW 1.9(27)/2.6(38) Michelin 235/70R16 4x4 TL Kerb 1.8(26)/2.0(29) GVW 1.8(26)/2.3(33) Goodyear Eagle GT+4 235/70R16 Kerb 1.8(26)/2.0(29) GVW 1.8(26)/2.3(33) etc.... The differences are more extreme with the likes of the Defender 110:- Michelin 7.50R16 X 4x4 Kerb 1.8(26)/2.0(29) GVW 1.9(27)/3.3(48) The table continues with recommended pressures for tracks and poor roads (max speed 40mph) and emergency flotation (max speed 12mph) I hope the above is of interest, remember to check the above figures in case I've made a typo. Cheers Fraser Young 1995 Defender 110 CSW 1973 Lightweight Aberdeen, Scotland ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 16:28:48 +0100 From: "S.W.Brierley" <S.W.Brierley@dl.ac.uk> Subject: Scum Of the earth unite. Hi Folks, I have noticed that i am become increasingly disliked by certain groups of people, and my crime????, well, owning a Land rover of course. Let me see, ........ The environmentalists hate me because its a ser III with a dirty great gas guzzling V8 (14-15 Mpg) that pollutes the atmosphere. Land owners hate me because I constantly tear around the countryside ripping up your trees and killing small animals.... alledgedly.!! And now, parents hate me because I possess a set of child killing train lines bolted to the front of my vehicle. So there we have it, a mild mannered, semi well educated good to citizen has turned in to a heathen just by purchasing a lanny........COOL!!!! I would'nt part with it for the world. Only kidding guys, hope it didn't offend to many people, its just that i'm getting paranoid now!!. Stu. ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 16:28:48 +0100 From: "S.W.Brierley" <S.W.Brierley@dl.ac.uk> Subject: Scum Of the earth unite. Hi Folks, I have noticed that i am become increasingly disliked by certain groups of people, and my crime????, well, owning a Land rover of course. Let me see, ........ The environmentalists hate me because its a ser III with a dirty great gas guzzling V8 (14-15 Mpg) that pollutes the atmosphere. Land owners hate me because I constantly tear around the countryside ripping up your trees and killing small animals.... alledgedly.!! And now, parents hate me because I possess a set of child killing train lines bolted to the front of my vehicle. So there we have it, a mild mannered, semi well educated good to citizen has turned in to a heathen just by purchasing a lanny........COOL!!!! I would'nt part with it for the world. Only kidding guys, hope it didn't offend to many people, its just that i'm getting paranoid now!!. Stu. ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 12:02:24 -0400 (EDT) From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: Re: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII? Alan, I just installed a radio/tape player in my lla pickup. I used a white lexan light cover about 12" long x 4" high x 5" deep. Drilled holes to mount the radio thru the front and then mounted an "|~~~~ " or L shaped bracket to the cover so it just slips over the top of the lip on the upper dash shelf. It hooks on there and is self supporting and cantilevers the radio far enough out from the bulkhead to permit all the wires and stuff to be hidden. That probably sounds pretty confusing but the trick is to get the back of the radio away from the bulkhead. It is very strong and the bumps don't bother it. This also looks pretty neat. ~~~| |______________ |<---- Light cover ________________| | Radio |-- |_______________| | Hook---> |~~~~~~~~~ ______________| | | | ___| |~~~~| | |<---Dash or top shelf side view of the round part ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 26 May 95 09:48:08 PDT From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Subject: Re: Winch & Brushbar for Disco Glad to hear there is finally a winch mount for the North American airbag Discoveries. Is ther one for the airbag Range Rovers yet? I assume the difference it makes whether or not the setup is designed to work with airbags may be such factors as a brushbar preventing the airbag sensors from being triggered? I guess the certified ones must have soft spots in them or something so the sensors can be triggered when you hit something. This is purely speculation on my part. Cheers JOhn Brabyn 89RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 26 May 95 14:32:12 EDT From: "MARK C. RITTER" <70472.1130@compuserve.com> Subject: Disco wheels and tires After asking many questions of Rover-net I'm now ready to give some answers. I recently bouught 4 steel disco wheels in England and have now fitted them with Cooper Discoverer STT radials size 225-75-16. This combination works great off road and swaps with the stock alloys in 25 minutes. The Coopers are not much louder on road and once off the pavement they provide my disco with tanklike traction. I have been at full suspension travel with NO clearence problems as the Coopers are within 1/4 inch diameter of the stock Michelins. The only problem I am having is that I like the look of the Disco so much with the white steel wheels and mud tires that I can't bring myself to put the alloys back on! Mark Ritter 94 Disco ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com> Subject: Re: Heaters Date: Fri, 26 May 95 15:21:07 EDT > There're at least 3 different Kodiak heaters out there... > The early type has the air intake next to the grill, a long hose [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > (Totally lost on non USA folks...I hope..) > I've seen this heater on vehicle up to 1966..... Our '67 farm rig (aka RoverRoach) has one of these....could have been a leftover '66 I suppose, but was always registered as a '67. Now, let's see what Carroll Merroll has behind door number 2..... rd/nige ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth) Subject: Floor Mats Date: 26 May 1995 23:17:29 GMT Just wanted to get a last word in on floor mats. Any Rover owners in the Seattle area can check out BOEING SURPLUS in South Seattle. Its where the Boeing Co. gets rid of everything they don't need anymore or have too much of (i.e. LOTS!!!). Among a multitude of other cool, useful and really cheap stuff they usually have full 1/4 inch thick solid rubber industrial matting, with v-groove top and flat bottom, for $0.20/lb. (They keep rubber products in bins along the wall in the ouside back lot.) The width is the same as the back of an 88". It's heavy, probably 35 or 40 pounds to do an entire Rover, but it will never wear out and is easy to clean. I made front floor mats, storage compartment mat, battery mat, and liners for several tool chests for $6.00. Fred Ellsworth '71 IIA 88" PS Its easy to cut with a utility knife - the floor mats look factory made. ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth) Subject: Tune-up Questions Date: 26 May 1995 22:57:24 GMT Howdy All!! I'm a fairly new Rover owner having just purchased a '71 Series IIA 88" about 7 months ago. It was great over the winter (alot better than my last British car, a '57 TR-3) and we've been having a blast with it. However, I've started a spring tune-up and have a few questions: 1) What exactly is the correct idle speed and ignition timing (8:1 compression ratio)? The factory shop manual says one thing and the emissions plate on the radiator panel says something completely different. Neither seems perfect but the emission settings suck. I set the timing by ear when I first got it but it's always idled very rough. Is this normal? 2) I figured the rough idle may be due to an incorrect mixture setting (its got the Zenith carb). However, the adjustment screw seems to have very little effect on anything. As far as I can tell it's all the way closed right now and backing it off even four or five turns doesn't do much at all. Is this normal? 3) I had the transmission rebuilt at DAP in Vermont 6-8 weeks ago when reverse gear blew out. Since I put the tranny back in it seems to buck and shudder quite a bit when starting in first gear from a stop. It doesn't do this every time and maybe its just me getting used to the vehicle again (I was out of town for a couple weeks and driving all sorts of different, boring cars). Assuming its NOT me, what could be causing this? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Fred Ellsworth '71 IIA 88" ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 22:29:20 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Re: 109 stuff needed... David, >Hello all, I am searching for a "placard" (where the vehicle ID is >located) for a 1970 IIa 109. It would need to be blank, so I could add >the number to it. Anyone know of any sources? Available, at least in some styles, if not the "correct" style for that year and model, from British Pacific in Burbank, CA. >Also, I need shocks for a 1970 109 S/W safari top. Does anyone have any >recommendations? How about part numbers? Nobody seems to list the "109" [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >downward axle travel? Each of mine has one side missing or broken. >Should I replace before doing any serious off road travel? There have been long threads on this subject and folks seem evenly divided about whether they are a good or bad thing. I have a brand new set to install and now don't want to install them because I'm convinced that they limit articulation. Others are convinced that without them your driveshaft's sliding splines wiill slip apart or brake lines break. This could probably be tested without damage at home. I've done hella-serious off-roading without them and never had any problems. Cheers, Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, CA <gpool@pacific.pacific.net> (707)485-7220 (home) (707)463-4265 (work) '73 Land-Rover 88, more LRs, Austin Champ, BMW 3.0si, Peugeot 505 Turbo... ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950527 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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