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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu14Re: Baby Rattles
2 Charlie Wright [cw117@mo32Swivel housings.
3 Charlie Wright [cw117@mo23Dynamo -> Alternator
4 Steven M Denis [denis@os53Heaters
5 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 32109 stuff needed...
6 "David McKain" [MCKAIN@f35 Recent Expeditions
7 William Caloccia [calocc9[not specified]
8 rsrose@cco.caltech.edu (19Door lock needed
9 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 36109 parts...
10 BobandSueB@aol.com 18Re: temp guage wrong
11 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em91Update on OVLR Birthday Party information.
12 jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (51109 Wiring Harness Replacement ?
13 cs@crl.com (Michael Carr19Aluminum Self-Etching Primer
14 cs@crl.com (Michael Carr32109 Wiring Harness Replacement
15 Jim Russell [jrussell@ne17Re: 109 Wiring Harness Replacement ?
16 Alan Richer [Alan_Richer17More on paint...help!
17 Spenny@aol.com 14painting
18 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 48Failed emissions, need help...
19 growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.S31Re: 109 Wiring Harness Replacement ?
20 growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.S90Re: More on paint...help!
21 "R. Pierce Reid, OH" [7033Stupid D90 Question # 47/misc.
22 rover@pinn.net (Alexande30Camel Trophy Daily Log


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From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Baby Rattles
Date: Thu, 25 May 95 8:59:52 BST

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
>       1  3     dl OD  L           "Land Rover's first, because
>       |--|--+  o  |   |            Land Rovers last."
>       2  4  R  ul N   H           '72 Range Rover
Sounds like the exhaust pipe to me......

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 11:44:07 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Swivel housings.

Boy am I full of it this morning...

I have been waiting 4 weeks for a back-ordered chrome ball to replace the 
pitted one on my axle.  I remember now a thread about these way back 
before I cared. I seem to remember _someone_ talking about restoring the 
balls (blasting and painting?)

My thought yesterday was: Why can't I just media-blast the old one (I 
have two spares) and have it re-chromed.

Surely this would cost less than the 55 pounds for a new one (which I 
can't get anyway...)

Would it not be smooth enough? Too much change in size/surface.

Surely the surface isn't structural, just a sealing surface? Are new 
seals (I have two) tolerant of slightly imperfect but smooth surfaces?

Advice from the knowing?

Cheers,
Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

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Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 11:38:36 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Dynamo -> Alternator

I saved all the messages about this conversion, but most are for using
Delco and similar American units, I'd rather go Bosch for availability
here.. My dynamo packed up last night (or the control box), so I have an
excuse to make the change.

Questions: 

Has anyone found a good Bosch fit?

Will I need the Series III bracket, or is there one that likes the old 
Dynamo bracket? 

Any other warnings/hints (I did this on my last 109 with a Lucas, and it 
was fine, but the patching 'round the control box was an ugly piece of 
wiring)

Cheers,
Charlie

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Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 09:59:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven M Denis <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Heaters

Kodiak Heaters....oh boy.....

There're at least 3 different Kodiak heaters out there...
The early type has the air intake next to the grill, a long hose 
connects it to the blower. Inside the vehicle is the heater core..open 
the little doors and peek if you want.."Jay! Is there heat behind door # 1?"
(Totally lost on non USA folks...I hope..)
	I've seen this heater on vehicle up to 1966.....
The Kodiak mark 3 heater has the hole in the wing with a grill but no 
bezel on the outside of the wing...the heater core sits in a box 
vertically under the right wing..there is an air pipe on the housing with 
an air valve (throttle) and a short piece of hose attaches to the wing 
hole...the blower is part of the heater core box and pulls the air 
throught the core and tosses it into the car..in the car is a simple duct 
that points to the left and has a lever on the side to deflect the air to 
the cab or windshield (screen) there is a small "door' on the right to 
help warm the passenger's knees....I've seen this heater starting in 1964...
I believe the Arctic Kodiak is this same heater with the intake air 
ducted through an elbow from the interior of the cab...
A Kodiak mark 3 *will* heat a land rover...if it's output is not 
overwhelmed by drafts.....
*IF* you have low output...check the heater valve...it has a plastic 
drum that turns when the lever on the valve is turned to open...guess 
what? the shaft turns inside the valve and it only opens a *wee* 
bit..instant no heat...If someone had the core cleaned due to low output 
this is normally where the trouble really was. also, the air valve *must* be 
open...it leaks 
enough when closed to make you *think* you have heat....but when the 
valve is open things blow around in the cab.......
The late 2A heater is a smiths type it has the core in a box on the top 
of the right footwell..it's flat against the slope on top..there is a 
blower motor with a hose going to the core and another going to the 
wing...the hole in the wing is smaller than the Mark 3 and has a small 
galvanized ring on the outside....inside the cab there is a long crinkle 
finished duct with little white plastic handle to open the door on the 
drivers end and a left and right slidie thing that says "floor-----screen"
to move the air up and down. started in 1967 methinks.the series 3 heater is 
just a fancy version of this (with a larger core starting in 1974..)
man, it's *hot* in here...

steve.....

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
"        "-1957 107 Station Wagon          PO Box 296
"        "-1964 109 Pickup                 Fulton, New York USA
"        "_1967 109 NADA SW                13069

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Date: Thu, 25 May 95 08:04:37 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: 109 stuff needed...

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: 109 stuff needed...
Hello all, I am searching for a "placard" (where the vehicle ID is
located) for a 1970 IIa 109. It would need to be blank, so I could add
the number to it. Anyone know of any sources?

Also, I need shocks for a 1970 109 S/W safari top. Does anyone have any
recommendations? How about part numbers? Nobody seems to list the "109"
in their catalogs. I've tried several places.

Lastly, (for now) how important are the "axle straps" that limit
downward axle travel? Each of mine has one side missing or broken.
Should I replace before doing any serious off road travel?

Thanks for your responses!

Dave...

P.S. It's *GREAT* having the list back! I was having serious withdrawal
symptoms! (What do you mean I'm CRANKY? I'LL SHOW YOU CRANKY!!!) ;-)

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

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From: "David McKain" <MCKAIN@faculty.coe.wvu.edu>
Date:          Thu, 25 May 1995 11:26:47 EDT
Subject:       Recent Expeditions

Just a little to fill in everyone on a recent expedition. The BRLRC 
held a meet ouside Parkersburg,WV a few weekends back. A lot of  
offroading fun was had by all. I owe a certian Steve Tipsword from 
Virginia a lot of thanks for pulling the used, unbroken, half-shaft 
for a Series LR from the back of his RR. I snapped one of mine out 
near the hub when I dropped the clutch in a mud hole. Iit only took 
10 minutes to pull the old shaft out and replace it with the used 
one. "Nice design" I thought until the following week I snapped the 
other half-shaft at the differential. Rover up, half-shafts out, differential out, 
hammer and screwdriver, strip an old rear axle, half-shaft already 
scavenged, strip another axle, eureka, diff back in, lots of RTV, 
shafts back in, feed with 90 wt, happy rover.
Back to the expedition. It was a lot of fun watching 1995 Range 
Rovers get stuck in the mud bogs. Even more fun to watch a gentleman 
knock off the fron spoiler in the process of getting out. Of the 6 or 
so vehicles to try only the Series LR's and a RR with a locking diff 
were able to make it unassisted through some horrific WV red clay.
In addition to LR vehicles we were joined by a pair of SS 
Kubelwagens. I believe that of the almost thirty vehicles there that 
my half-shaft was the only drivetrain-engine related failure although
 a lot of paint was left on the trail. I can hardly wait until I can 
go out and try to break my LR in Virginia in a few weeks.

David McKain
1966 SIIa Petrol
mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu
(304) 599-0120
Morgantown, WV
USA                     

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Subject: I hadn't seen references to this page previously 
Date: Thu, 25 May 95 11:45:42 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

 http://sun1.bham.ac.uk/D.Hejcman.mes/ROVER/rover.html

Looks like it is still under construction, but is a real fine set of pages.

 -B

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From: rsrose@cco.caltech.edu (Randolph Rose)
Subject: Door lock needed
Date: 25 May 1995 15:51:52 GMT

Cylinder needed for a door lock.

The cylinder on the door lock for my 107 station wagon has given
up the ghost.  Does anyone have one they would be willing to part 
with?  The type of lock was used from Series I through mid '60's.
It's the type attached to the door handle, with a hook cam that engages
a small post attached to the door skin.  I just need the cylinder; the
latch is fine.  Matching key is not necessary.  I can use the cylinder
from any junk or broken latch of the right type.

Many thanks,

Randy Rose

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Date: Thu, 25 May 95 09:20:21 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: 109 parts...

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: 109 parts...
Walter and Alan,

Thanks for the responses! Walt, yes, I have used British Pacific.
Ordered a gas cap for the 109 at $9 (Around $3 cheaper than Rovers
North.) and received it in 2 days! Good service I'd say. Alan, thanks
for the tip, but the shocks are bad. Wish it were just bushings, but...

I'm currently waiting for their price sheet (in print shop). Just hoping
for some part numbers or something I can get locally.

BTW, they also have the placards for the 88's but are checking on
availability for the 109's. I should hear from them Today or Tomorrow.

Thanks for the reply!

P.S. The placard is because mine's missing, and the frame number on the
right front-front spring mount (at least that's where it on my "88") is
unreadable. I just bought it, and need it to transfer title to Arizona
(from New York). This would save me $350 or so for a "bonded title". Any
idea where to find the serial number? (If it exists anywhere else. )

Is this where your 109's "frame" serial number is located?

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

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From: BobandSueB@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 15:24:29 -0400
Subject: Re: temp guage wrong

I lost the original note about this, but I think I may have a valid idea
about the problem so here's my 2 cents worth.
The temp guage thatgoes to red soon after start up and idle, A possibility
could be this, the wire to the switch on top right front of the head that
turns on the light for cold start warning, might be swapped with the wire for
the temp. sender at the thermostat housing.(front right almost top).
this would cause the symptom as described.

good luck,
Bob Bernard 
LROA ,NA Membership.
Paradise, CA.

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Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 15:37:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Update on OVLR Birthday Party information.

12th Annual OVLR Birthday Party

Date:     June 24th and 25th

Place:    Silver Lake -about sixty miles west-southwest of Ottawa 
          (See attached Map [directions available from dkenner@emr.ca])

Gen'l:    The site of the 12th annual OVLR Birthday party will be
          more varied that past years.  The property abuts onto
          two lakes. (ie fishing and swimming will be possible)
          There will be two campsites available on the property,
          one smaller one beside the lake, a much larger one a
          few hundred yards "inland".  There are a large variety
          of trails from the very light off-road variety (street
          tires required) to medium and very heavy off-road
          trails.  The property adjoins the Silver Lake
          Provincial Park, so there is a more civilised
          campground available for those who prefer showers and
          other wussy things (1/2 mile away).  For the real
          degenerates, there is also a motel very close by with
          both rooms and cabins for rent (1/8 of a mile). 
          Apparently fishing can be done in the Lake.  Bring your
          own canoe.

Who:      This event is open to all Land Rover owners.  However,
          noting a general rise in attendance levels over the
          past few years, there is concern with getting accurate
          counts of people so that preparations can be made. 
          This is also the first year at a new location, and
          facilities on the Birthday Party site might be limited. 
          This event is also run by a few volunteers in their
          spare time.  (Unlike in the U.S.A. where Land Rover
          North America supported the Rover Owners of Virginia
          event to the tune of $2,000)  In light of this, the
          Executive has decided that pre-registration will be
          required.  The pre-registration form in included with
          both the May and June newsletters.  If you do not pre-
          register, there is no guarantee that you will be able
          to get into the Birthday Party.  The co-ordinator for
          this year is Jason Dowell. (819) 595-4593.

Cost:     $15.00 per person over the age of 12 years.  
          $8.00 per child aged 6 through 12 
          Children under 6 are free.

Note:     The Silver Lake Provincial Park adjoining the property
          does not open until June 16th.  Making reservations may
          be difficult.  Please contact the Ontario Provincial
          Parks Authority for Silver Lake for more information. 
          (They have campsites with showers)  The telephone
          number is (613) 268-2000.  The Ministry of Natural
          Resources does say that you can make reservations now. 
          An alternate number is the Sharbot Lake Prov. Park 335-
          2814 which may handle Silver Lake reservations.

          The Silver Lake Motel adjoints the Birthday Party site. 
          For reservations call the Silver Lake Motel & Cottages
          at (613) 268-2511.  The cost of rooms & cottages ranges
          from $35 to approx. $60 for a large cabin.

General Times and Schedules:

Friday:   First people start to arrive at Silver Lake.  People
          are free to socialise and do what ever they like. 
          People showing on Friday are responsible for their own
          meals that day.

Saturday: Breakfast is the responsibility of the participant. 
          The first heavy off-road group will depart around 10-
          11am.  Any subsequent groups will leave at two hour
          intervals.  The Heavy Off-road is expected to take
          about four hours to complete.  Winches may be a
          requirement for all vehicles.  In some of the swampy
          sections there is no room to turn a Land Rover to winch
          subsequent vehicles through.  Children are not
          permitted on the Heavy Off-road.
          Lunch will be provided by OVLR.  
          The afternoon is light, medium and heavy off-road
          sessions.   The light off-road is expected to take
          about two hours to complete.  No safety requirements at
          this time
          Dinner will be provided by OVLR.  Evening is fireworks,
          more beer, socialising et cetera.

Sunday:   Breakfast/ brunch provided by OVLR.  Light off-road,
          medium off-road for those interested.

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Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 12:45:46 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: 109 Wiring Harness Replacement ?

Since I'm substantially tearing down my 109 to restore it I'm seriously 
considering installing a new wiring harness while the beast is in pieces 
anyway.  The existing wiring is almost certainly original pre '67 
(probably '65) cloth wrapped and looks to have the potential for many 
loose or excess electrons (me thinks Uncle Joe would find a happy home 
here).  The vehicle is not currently running so I don't know the actual 
status of the electrics.  I wanted to get any input anyone has on this 
operation. 

I'm not sure (haven't checked/figured it out yet) if the vehicle was 
ever converted from + to - ground (its a suffix B).  For now I'm 
assuming its still on + ground (no alternator installed at any rate).  

The following questions come to mind:

Has anyone out there successfully changed harnesses?  Does it create 
more or fewer electrical problems than putting up with existing 
components :) ?  (bearing in mind the LR corollary of Murphy's law).

Are there any points in the wiring harness change that are particularly 
torturous/difficult for a DIY operation?

Any special tools/equipment required (same as above I guess)?

If I convert to - ground (probable) I see two options: 

1. Install a + ground harness and perform the conversion post 
installation.  Why would I want to do this? 

2. Install a - ground harness.  What other conversions changes will be 
incurred?

Any recommendations on the best alternative?

I suppose this assumes that there is an actual difference between the 
two harnesses (they are listed under different part numbers with 
marginally different costs).  Maybe they're identical?

Dare I ask, is there a non-genuine part wiring harness or approach to 
replacement that is superior?     

As usual, all replies appreciated.

Cheers,

Jeremy Bartlett

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Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 14:05:56 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Aluminum Self-Etching Primer

 Rovers,

 As you all know, the difficulty in painting aluminum is preparing
 the metal to accept paint.  The Eastwood Company (800-345-1178) in
 Malvern, Pennsylvania, USA makes a one-step self etching primer for
 aluminum, steel and stainless steel, and only sells by mail-order.
 Call them for a catalog, they have a multitude of other paints and
 paint products of interest as well.

 Michael Carradine    Carradine Studios                   Tel.500-442-6500
 Architect            Architecture Development Planning   Pgr.510-945-5000
 NCARB RIBA           PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA           cs@crl.com

 Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

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Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 14:36:16 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: 109 Wiring Harness Replacement

 Jeremy Bartlett <jjbpears@ix.netcom.com> writes about replacing his
 wiring for a 109 IIA:

>I suppose this assumes that there is an actual difference between the 
 two harnesses (they are listed under different part numbers with 
 marginally different costs).  Maybe they're identical?

 There are at least 3 harnesses in a Series Rover, plus a few cables,
 some parts of which are easier to install than others.  There is the
 Main Harness, almost completely in the engine compartment and dash;
 the Frame & Rear Crossmember Harness, leading to back and a bit more
 difficult to get to; and the Engine Harness, withjust a few wires.

 Looking at the wonderfully illustrative Rovers North catalog, they
 are asking $255 ($275 for Pos Earth), $65, and $39 respectively.
 RN doesn't even offer these as "genuine parts", and notes that the
 harnesses are wrapped in PVC, with cloth braid by "special request"
(RRIIIIGHT!).

 Bring your new harnesse(s) to the Lucas Challenge!  I'm certain Joe
 himself will lead the boys in replacing the harnesses for you!!!  :)

 Michael Carradine    Carradine Studios                   Tel.500-442-6500
 Architect            Architecture Development Planning   Pgr.510-945-5000
 NCARB RIBA           PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA           cs@crl.com

 Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

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Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 14:49:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Russell <jrussell@netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 109 Wiring Harness Replacement ?

You don't want to install a negative earth wiring harness!!!  If you do 
replace the harnesses you will almost certainly want to stick with the 
positive earth version or else you could encounter problems with the 
placement of some equipment, etc.

First, converting to negative earth is really pretty simple.  About all 
it really consists of is swiching leads on a few things like the 
instruments.  Most stuff like lights don't care what the polarity is.  
But, have a few spare fuses handy!!!

                  Jim Russell   ====   jrussell@netcom.com
                         (Seattle -- San Francisco)            

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From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 25 May 95 17:50:12 EDT
Subject: More on paint...help!

I am at present in the throes of trying to get an authentic Rover bronze
Green mixed at my local paint store. I would go wth original lacquer,
but with lacquers becoming illegal in the US as of August I was looing
toward the future and hoping to be able to go with an acrylic or urethane
enamel.

Also, are there any other names for this color? My local paintshop is trying 
to tell me that it's also called "Arden Green". Not in my manuals it isn't...
but it ain't the first time I've been wrong.

Any and all assistance is welcome. Thanks.... -ajr

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From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 19:16:41 -0400
Subject: painting

all,
How much paint do i need to buy to cover my 88?
the wheels & top will be limestone, the rest poppy red,
I dont need to paint the interior, but some leftover for touch
up would be nice

thanks.
spenny

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Date: Thu, 25 May 95 16:34:46 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Failed emissions, need help...

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Failed emissions, need help...
Hello all you wonderfully intelligent wizards in "netland"! (Buttering
you up for the kill...) I need a bit of help passing the new emissions
for a 1971 Land Rover IIa "88" 4 cyl. petrol.

My results were:
   HC at load: (500 allowable) 159 recorded - Passed
   HC at idle: (500 allowable) 271 recorded - Passed

   CO at load: (5.5 allowable) 5.67 recorded - FAILED
   CO at idle: (5.5 allowable) 5.58 recorded - FAILED

The truck runs well, although idle speed may be a bit high. Where should
I look to solve this???

Does anyone have the tune-up spec's for this? I have NO information.
   Point gap=?
   Dwell=?
   Timing=?
   Idle speed=?
   Plug gap=?
   # turns for fuel mixture=? (I think it's a webber)
      (it's not solex or rochester)

Would this information be the same as a '70 109?

Thanks a lot for your help!!

 #=====#         #========#          -------,___
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___      |--' |  |  \_|_
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}    |  _ |--+--|_  |
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"    ||_/_\___|__/_\_|}
                                       (_)      (_)
 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa     1994 Discovery (for sale $30,500 obo)
                                                   (Too hard to "draw")

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

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Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 18:22:20 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: 109 Wiring Harness Replacement ?

>  The existing wiring is almost certainly original pre '67 
> (probably '65) cloth wrapped and looks to have the potential for many 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Cheers,
> Jeremy Bartlett

  I have a friend who bought a Dormobile "parts kit." It had been converted to
a Chevy six. The PO had started to rewire by cutting (with a hack saw) the main
harness in two places, where it goes through the fire wall. He was doing this
to solve mysterious electrical problems. I spliced all the cut wires back
together, and trimmed off all the cloth jacket. There was one burned wire
inside the harness, caused by poor workmanship for the engine conversion.
He has had NO more electrical problems due to wiring.
  The Lucas wiring inside the old cloth jacket on your Rover is better than
anything you could replace it with, except a new, OEM harness. Just trim off
the old cloth jacket and clean the harness with 409 or Simple Green. Replace
any wires that are burned or worn through, there won't be (m)any. Put wire tyes
on the harness evey few inches. Clean the connections with a wire brush and WD.
  Your truck is probably + earth. It is easy to change it to - earth. Install
a GM Delco alternator and turn the battery around. I can FAX you a copy of the
wiring for the alternator. Everything will work just fine, except the ameter
will read backwards, but you can turn that around if it bothers you.
  Most "Joe Lucas" problems are caused by the people who try to fix things they
don't understand.

Regards, Bill G.      

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Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 18:30:12 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: More on paint...help!

> I am at present in the throes of trying to get an authentic Rover bronze
> Green mixed at my local paint store. I would go wth original lacquer,
> but with lacquers becoming illegal in the US as of August I was looing
> toward the future and hoping to be able to go with an acrylic or urethane
> enamel.

Here's a quick cut and paste of more answers than you wanted.

R, bg

 any DuPont paint jobber should be able to mix
up Rover colors in single quart cans. (If anyone has any other #'s, pass
them along.)

        Bronze green    38500
        Mid grey        38501
        Sand            38502
        Marine blue     38503
        Pastel green    38504
        Limestone       38505
        Poppy red       38506
        Burnt grey      38508
        Davos white     38514
        Mexican brown   38519
        Cameron green   38520
        Almond yellow   38521

Sand                               ACF/004 or 26291
        Almond yellow   38521        "camel yellow"   SandGlow, it is
        also a old Jaguar color 

For "DuLux" alkyd enamle, append a "D" to the paint color number.  Add an
"L" of laquer, or "A" for Centari acrylic enamel.  Other part numbers:

        Dulux hardener                  77s
        Aluminum cleaner                225s
        Aluminum conversion coating     226s
        "Variprime" two-part primer     615s
        Engine enamel
         "Detroit Diesel Alpine Green"  #225 (made by Tempo)

Automotive paints are quite sensitive to temperatures: use the following
thinners/retarders.  If you must paint at higher temps, add an anti-wrinkle
agent:

        DuLux Thinner   Temp Range      Centari Thinner Temp Range
           #8508        below 65 F           #8034       below 70 F
           #3812        65-75 F              #8022       70-85 F
           #3864        70-80 F              #8093       above 85 F
           #8522        above 80 F

The DuLux cannot be clear-coated, though the Centari can be protected in
this fashion.  DuLux can be mixed for brush application (like for roofs)
rather than spray applicatio, though.  DuPont "Corlar" two-part epoxy is
another primer alternative.  As it is intended for aircraft, it is only
available in gallon cans, and in grey.  Better living through chemistry...
I wasn't trying to sell AB's paint, but only thought the color names
might be of interest. Right you are on being able to buy it anywhere, and
here are the match numbers, courtesy Rovers North. Don't blame me if you go
out and get 10 gallons and it don't match. I got some Dupont acrylic enamel
to paint my fire wall with this number and it dosn't match anything, but
that's just because the thing is so fadded and oxidized. I'm sure these are
as correct as you can get. And a lovley red it is.

                        Dupont Centari       Ditzler       Glasurit
     
     Limestone             38505A             46251        
     Marine Blue           38503A             16514         ROV504
     Poppy Red             38506AH                          ROV303
     Light (Pastel) Green  38504A                           ROV605
     Sand                               ACF/004 or 26291
     Bronze Green          38500A             46451         LEY637
     Arctic White
  
Regards, Bill G.

Taken from the Rovers North newsletter (Spring '91), the paint codes for
 popular Series Land Rover colors are:
               RM Supermax   Ditzler   Glasurit   Dupont Centauri
 Limestone       RV-040       46251                  38505-A 
 Marine Blue     RV-017       16514     ROV-504      38503-A
 Poppy Red       RV-029                 ROV-303      38506-AH
 Pastel Green    RV-028                 ROV-605      38504-A
 Bronze Green    RV-027       46451     LEY-637      38500-A
 Some colors require white primer, others grey.

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Date: 25 May 95 21:38:32 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid, OH" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Stupid D90 Question # 47/misc.

Has anyone tried to fit leather gaiters on a D90?  Does LR make a set?  My
Series LR's always benefitted immensely from gaiters and I would like to put
them on the D90 while the swivel balls are still shiny and unpitted.  Anyone
done this yet?  Is there an LR part number?  Am I sounding like Taylor?

Also... for those upset with the black sticky stuff on the steering wheels... a
recent issue of LRO magazine (April, I think) has a short piece in it about a
product used especially to restore steering wheels.  It's a heavy black epoxy
enamel paint that totally restores the wheel to new condition.  Perhaps someone
who subscribes (I steal my dad's copies when I visit VT, so I don't have any
recent issues yet) can post the company name.

I have used Wheelskins on my Porsche.  Very nice.  Felt great on the wheel.
Fine on a hardtop LR... but on a softtop, it would be mushy, then faded. Then
tattered -- all in about one season.  &#^)@*!!!

The trailer is almost down to the last nut... I am stripping the frame and box
down to bare metal.  BTW, anyone who wants a really top-notch stripper, go to
NAPA.  Their Metal stripper (part 6802 or something like that) is amazing.
Within the first 10 seconds of application, it ate the paint off and then melted
the brush.  Anyone see Alien?  $26 a gallon and the best stripper I've ever
used.  Says on the can "For professsional use only" and you have to request it.
We're all professional beer-drinkers, so we qualify.

Cheers... I am off to Denver for the weekend, BTW... I'll let you all know of
any sightings!

R. Pierce Reid 

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Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 21:56:46 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Camel Trophy Daily Log

Wednesday, May 24th - Working in shifts around the clock, Camel Trophy 
participants uncovered secrets of the past in the dense Central American 
jungle.  "in the past two days, we've already covered half the ground we had 
planned in order to map the perimeter of the site," said project leader Rick 
Bronson.  "The manpower that the Camel Trophy afforded us has enabled us to 
do work in 2 days that would normally have taken months or even years.  They 
have been amazingly enthusiastic," he continued.

The most important find of the day was uncovered by the teams from Spain and 
the Canary Islands.  Though excavating a looted tomb, they found a perfectly 
intact black ceramic bowl dated to c. 750 AD.  "We had been digging all 
night and were really drained," said Belen Sanchez of Spain.  "To find this 
gives everyone a great sense of achievement."

After two days in the tropic heat and humidity, the team faced the 8-10km 
hike back to the Discoveries where they were to get a few hours sleep before 
hitting the trail again.  The next major obstacle will be Lago Peten Itza 
which will likely require a day to get all vehicles across.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

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