[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu | 14 | Re: Baby Rattles |
2 | Charlie Wright [cw117@mo | 32 | Swivel housings. |
3 | Charlie Wright [cw117@mo | 23 | Dynamo -> Alternator |
4 | Steven M Denis [denis@os | 53 | Heaters |
5 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 32 | 109 stuff needed... |
6 | "David McKain" [MCKAIN@f | 35 | Recent Expeditions |
7 | William Caloccia [calocc | 9 | [not specified] |
8 | rsrose@cco.caltech.edu ( | 19 | Door lock needed |
9 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 36 | 109 parts... |
10 | BobandSueB@aol.com | 18 | Re: temp guage wrong |
11 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 91 | Update on OVLR Birthday Party information. |
12 | jjbpears@ix.netcom.com ( | 51 | 109 Wiring Harness Replacement ? |
13 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 19 | Aluminum Self-Etching Primer |
14 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 32 | 109 Wiring Harness Replacement |
15 | Jim Russell [jrussell@ne | 17 | Re: 109 Wiring Harness Replacement ? |
16 | Alan Richer [Alan_Richer | 17 | More on paint...help! |
17 | Spenny@aol.com | 14 | painting |
18 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 48 | Failed emissions, need help... |
19 | growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.S | 31 | Re: 109 Wiring Harness Replacement ? |
20 | growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.S | 90 | Re: More on paint...help! |
21 | "R. Pierce Reid, OH" [70 | 33 | Stupid D90 Question # 47/misc. |
22 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 30 | Camel Trophy Daily Log |
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Baby Rattles Date: Thu, 25 May 95 8:59:52 BST [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)] > 1 3 dl OD L "Land Rover's first, because > |--|--+ o | | Land Rovers last." > 2 4 R ul N H '72 Range Rover Sounds like the exhaust pipe to me...... Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 11:44:07 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk> Subject: Swivel housings. Boy am I full of it this morning... I have been waiting 4 weeks for a back-ordered chrome ball to replace the pitted one on my axle. I remember now a thread about these way back before I cared. I seem to remember _someone_ talking about restoring the balls (blasting and painting?) My thought yesterday was: Why can't I just media-blast the old one (I have two spares) and have it re-chromed. Surely this would cost less than the 55 pounds for a new one (which I can't get anyway...) Would it not be smooth enough? Too much change in size/surface. Surely the surface isn't structural, just a sealing surface? Are new seals (I have two) tolerant of slightly imperfect but smooth surfaces? Advice from the knowing? Cheers, Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 11:38:36 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk> Subject: Dynamo -> Alternator I saved all the messages about this conversion, but most are for using Delco and similar American units, I'd rather go Bosch for availability here.. My dynamo packed up last night (or the control box), so I have an excuse to make the change. Questions: Has anyone found a good Bosch fit? Will I need the Series III bracket, or is there one that likes the old Dynamo bracket? Any other warnings/hints (I did this on my last 109 with a Lucas, and it was fine, but the patching 'round the control box was an ugly piece of wiring) Cheers, Charlie ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 09:59:00 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven M Denis <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU> Subject: Heaters Kodiak Heaters....oh boy..... There're at least 3 different Kodiak heaters out there... The early type has the air intake next to the grill, a long hose connects it to the blower. Inside the vehicle is the heater core..open the little doors and peek if you want.."Jay! Is there heat behind door # 1?" (Totally lost on non USA folks...I hope..) I've seen this heater on vehicle up to 1966..... The Kodiak mark 3 heater has the hole in the wing with a grill but no bezel on the outside of the wing...the heater core sits in a box vertically under the right wing..there is an air pipe on the housing with an air valve (throttle) and a short piece of hose attaches to the wing hole...the blower is part of the heater core box and pulls the air throught the core and tosses it into the car..in the car is a simple duct that points to the left and has a lever on the side to deflect the air to the cab or windshield (screen) there is a small "door' on the right to help warm the passenger's knees....I've seen this heater starting in 1964... I believe the Arctic Kodiak is this same heater with the intake air ducted through an elbow from the interior of the cab... A Kodiak mark 3 *will* heat a land rover...if it's output is not overwhelmed by drafts..... *IF* you have low output...check the heater valve...it has a plastic drum that turns when the lever on the valve is turned to open...guess what? the shaft turns inside the valve and it only opens a *wee* bit..instant no heat...If someone had the core cleaned due to low output this is normally where the trouble really was. also, the air valve *must* be open...it leaks enough when closed to make you *think* you have heat....but when the valve is open things blow around in the cab....... The late 2A heater is a smiths type it has the core in a box on the top of the right footwell..it's flat against the slope on top..there is a blower motor with a hose going to the core and another going to the wing...the hole in the wing is smaller than the Mark 3 and has a small galvanized ring on the outside....inside the cab there is a long crinkle finished duct with little white plastic handle to open the door on the drivers end and a left and right slidie thing that says "floor-----screen" to move the air up and down. started in 1967 methinks.the series 3 heater is just a fancy version of this (with a larger core starting in 1974..) man, it's *hot* in here... steve..... "HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..." "NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon Steven M. Denis " "-1957 107 Station Wagon PO Box 296 " "-1964 109 Pickup Fulton, New York USA " "_1967 109 NADA SW 13069 ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 25 May 95 08:04:37 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: 109 stuff needed... FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: 109 stuff needed... Hello all, I am searching for a "placard" (where the vehicle ID is located) for a 1970 IIa 109. It would need to be blank, so I could add the number to it. Anyone know of any sources? Also, I need shocks for a 1970 109 S/W safari top. Does anyone have any recommendations? How about part numbers? Nobody seems to list the "109" in their catalogs. I've tried several places. Lastly, (for now) how important are the "axle straps" that limit downward axle travel? Each of mine has one side missing or broken. Should I replace before doing any serious off road travel? Thanks for your responses! Dave... P.S. It's *GREAT* having the list back! I was having serious withdrawal symptoms! (What do you mean I'm CRANKY? I'LL SHOW YOU CRANKY!!!) ;-) #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David McKain" <MCKAIN@faculty.coe.wvu.edu> Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 11:26:47 EDT Subject: Recent Expeditions Just a little to fill in everyone on a recent expedition. The BRLRC held a meet ouside Parkersburg,WV a few weekends back. A lot of offroading fun was had by all. I owe a certian Steve Tipsword from Virginia a lot of thanks for pulling the used, unbroken, half-shaft for a Series LR from the back of his RR. I snapped one of mine out near the hub when I dropped the clutch in a mud hole. Iit only took 10 minutes to pull the old shaft out and replace it with the used one. "Nice design" I thought until the following week I snapped the other half-shaft at the differential. Rover up, half-shafts out, differential out, hammer and screwdriver, strip an old rear axle, half-shaft already scavenged, strip another axle, eureka, diff back in, lots of RTV, shafts back in, feed with 90 wt, happy rover. Back to the expedition. It was a lot of fun watching 1995 Range Rovers get stuck in the mud bogs. Even more fun to watch a gentleman knock off the fron spoiler in the process of getting out. Of the 6 or so vehicles to try only the Series LR's and a RR with a locking diff were able to make it unassisted through some horrific WV red clay. In addition to LR vehicles we were joined by a pair of SS Kubelwagens. I believe that of the almost thirty vehicles there that my half-shaft was the only drivetrain-engine related failure although a lot of paint was left on the trail. I can hardly wait until I can go out and try to break my LR in Virginia in a few weeks. David McKain 1966 SIIa Petrol mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu (304) 599-0120 Morgantown, WV USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: I hadn't seen references to this page previously Date: Thu, 25 May 95 11:45:42 -0400 From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com> http://sun1.bham.ac.uk/D.Hejcman.mes/ROVER/rover.html Looks like it is still under construction, but is a real fine set of pages. -B ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: rsrose@cco.caltech.edu (Randolph Rose) Subject: Door lock needed Date: 25 May 1995 15:51:52 GMT Cylinder needed for a door lock. The cylinder on the door lock for my 107 station wagon has given up the ghost. Does anyone have one they would be willing to part with? The type of lock was used from Series I through mid '60's. It's the type attached to the door handle, with a hook cam that engages a small post attached to the door skin. I just need the cylinder; the latch is fine. Matching key is not necessary. I can use the cylinder from any junk or broken latch of the right type. Many thanks, Randy Rose ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 25 May 95 09:20:21 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: 109 parts... FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: 109 parts... Walter and Alan, Thanks for the responses! Walt, yes, I have used British Pacific. Ordered a gas cap for the 109 at $9 (Around $3 cheaper than Rovers North.) and received it in 2 days! Good service I'd say. Alan, thanks for the tip, but the shocks are bad. Wish it were just bushings, but... I'm currently waiting for their price sheet (in print shop). Just hoping for some part numbers or something I can get locally. BTW, they also have the placards for the 88's but are checking on availability for the 109's. I should hear from them Today or Tomorrow. Thanks for the reply! P.S. The placard is because mine's missing, and the frame number on the right front-front spring mount (at least that's where it on my "88") is unreadable. I just bought it, and need it to transfer title to Arizona (from New York). This would save me $350 or so for a "bonded title". Any idea where to find the serial number? (If it exists anywhere else. ) Is this where your 109's "frame" serial number is located? #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: BobandSueB@aol.com Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 15:24:29 -0400 Subject: Re: temp guage wrong I lost the original note about this, but I think I may have a valid idea about the problem so here's my 2 cents worth. The temp guage thatgoes to red soon after start up and idle, A possibility could be this, the wire to the switch on top right front of the head that turns on the light for cold start warning, might be swapped with the wire for the temp. sender at the thermostat housing.(front right almost top). this would cause the symptom as described. good luck, Bob Bernard LROA ,NA Membership. Paradise, CA. ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 15:37:21 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> Subject: Update on OVLR Birthday Party information. 12th Annual OVLR Birthday Party Date: June 24th and 25th Place: Silver Lake -about sixty miles west-southwest of Ottawa (See attached Map [directions available from dkenner@emr.ca]) Gen'l: The site of the 12th annual OVLR Birthday party will be more varied that past years. The property abuts onto two lakes. (ie fishing and swimming will be possible) There will be two campsites available on the property, one smaller one beside the lake, a much larger one a few hundred yards "inland". There are a large variety of trails from the very light off-road variety (street tires required) to medium and very heavy off-road trails. The property adjoins the Silver Lake Provincial Park, so there is a more civilised campground available for those who prefer showers and other wussy things (1/2 mile away). For the real degenerates, there is also a motel very close by with both rooms and cabins for rent (1/8 of a mile). Apparently fishing can be done in the Lake. Bring your own canoe. Who: This event is open to all Land Rover owners. However, noting a general rise in attendance levels over the past few years, there is concern with getting accurate counts of people so that preparations can be made. This is also the first year at a new location, and facilities on the Birthday Party site might be limited. This event is also run by a few volunteers in their spare time. (Unlike in the U.S.A. where Land Rover North America supported the Rover Owners of Virginia event to the tune of $2,000) In light of this, the Executive has decided that pre-registration will be required. The pre-registration form in included with both the May and June newsletters. If you do not pre- register, there is no guarantee that you will be able to get into the Birthday Party. The co-ordinator for this year is Jason Dowell. (819) 595-4593. Cost: $15.00 per person over the age of 12 years. $8.00 per child aged 6 through 12 Children under 6 are free. Note: The Silver Lake Provincial Park adjoining the property does not open until June 16th. Making reservations may be difficult. Please contact the Ontario Provincial Parks Authority for Silver Lake for more information. (They have campsites with showers) The telephone number is (613) 268-2000. The Ministry of Natural Resources does say that you can make reservations now. An alternate number is the Sharbot Lake Prov. Park 335- 2814 which may handle Silver Lake reservations. The Silver Lake Motel adjoints the Birthday Party site. For reservations call the Silver Lake Motel & Cottages at (613) 268-2511. The cost of rooms & cottages ranges from $35 to approx. $60 for a large cabin. General Times and Schedules: Friday: First people start to arrive at Silver Lake. People are free to socialise and do what ever they like. People showing on Friday are responsible for their own meals that day. Saturday: Breakfast is the responsibility of the participant. The first heavy off-road group will depart around 10- 11am. Any subsequent groups will leave at two hour intervals. The Heavy Off-road is expected to take about four hours to complete. Winches may be a requirement for all vehicles. In some of the swampy sections there is no room to turn a Land Rover to winch subsequent vehicles through. Children are not permitted on the Heavy Off-road. Lunch will be provided by OVLR. The afternoon is light, medium and heavy off-road sessions. The light off-road is expected to take about two hours to complete. No safety requirements at this time Dinner will be provided by OVLR. Evening is fireworks, more beer, socialising et cetera. Sunday: Breakfast/ brunch provided by OVLR. Light off-road, medium off-road for those interested. ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 12:45:46 -0700 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: 109 Wiring Harness Replacement ? Since I'm substantially tearing down my 109 to restore it I'm seriously considering installing a new wiring harness while the beast is in pieces anyway. The existing wiring is almost certainly original pre '67 (probably '65) cloth wrapped and looks to have the potential for many loose or excess electrons (me thinks Uncle Joe would find a happy home here). The vehicle is not currently running so I don't know the actual status of the electrics. I wanted to get any input anyone has on this operation. I'm not sure (haven't checked/figured it out yet) if the vehicle was ever converted from + to - ground (its a suffix B). For now I'm assuming its still on + ground (no alternator installed at any rate). The following questions come to mind: Has anyone out there successfully changed harnesses? Does it create more or fewer electrical problems than putting up with existing components :) ? (bearing in mind the LR corollary of Murphy's law). Are there any points in the wiring harness change that are particularly torturous/difficult for a DIY operation? Any special tools/equipment required (same as above I guess)? If I convert to - ground (probable) I see two options: 1. Install a + ground harness and perform the conversion post installation. Why would I want to do this? 2. Install a - ground harness. What other conversions changes will be incurred? Any recommendations on the best alternative? I suppose this assumes that there is an actual difference between the two harnesses (they are listed under different part numbers with marginally different costs). Maybe they're identical? Dare I ask, is there a non-genuine part wiring harness or approach to replacement that is superior? As usual, all replies appreciated. Cheers, Jeremy Bartlett ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 14:05:56 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Aluminum Self-Etching Primer Rovers, As you all know, the difficulty in painting aluminum is preparing the metal to accept paint. The Eastwood Company (800-345-1178) in Malvern, Pennsylvania, USA makes a one-step self etching primer for aluminum, steel and stainless steel, and only sells by mail-order. Call them for a catalog, they have a multitude of other paints and paint products of interest as well. Michael Carradine Carradine Studios Tel.500-442-6500 Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr.510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA cs@crl.com Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 14:36:16 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: 109 Wiring Harness Replacement Jeremy Bartlett <jjbpears@ix.netcom.com> writes about replacing his wiring for a 109 IIA: >I suppose this assumes that there is an actual difference between the two harnesses (they are listed under different part numbers with marginally different costs). Maybe they're identical? There are at least 3 harnesses in a Series Rover, plus a few cables, some parts of which are easier to install than others. There is the Main Harness, almost completely in the engine compartment and dash; the Frame & Rear Crossmember Harness, leading to back and a bit more difficult to get to; and the Engine Harness, withjust a few wires. Looking at the wonderfully illustrative Rovers North catalog, they are asking $255 ($275 for Pos Earth), $65, and $39 respectively. RN doesn't even offer these as "genuine parts", and notes that the harnesses are wrapped in PVC, with cloth braid by "special request" (RRIIIIGHT!). Bring your new harnesse(s) to the Lucas Challenge! I'm certain Joe himself will lead the boys in replacing the harnesses for you!!! :) Michael Carradine Carradine Studios Tel.500-442-6500 Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr.510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA cs@crl.com Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 14:49:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Russell <jrussell@netcom.com> Subject: Re: 109 Wiring Harness Replacement ? You don't want to install a negative earth wiring harness!!! If you do replace the harnesses you will almost certainly want to stick with the positive earth version or else you could encounter problems with the placement of some equipment, etc. First, converting to negative earth is really pretty simple. About all it really consists of is swiching leads on a few things like the instruments. Most stuff like lights don't care what the polarity is. But, have a few spare fuses handy!!! Jim Russell ==== jrussell@netcom.com (Seattle -- San Francisco) ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 25 May 95 17:50:12 EDT Subject: More on paint...help! I am at present in the throes of trying to get an authentic Rover bronze Green mixed at my local paint store. I would go wth original lacquer, but with lacquers becoming illegal in the US as of August I was looing toward the future and hoping to be able to go with an acrylic or urethane enamel. Also, are there any other names for this color? My local paintshop is trying to tell me that it's also called "Arden Green". Not in my manuals it isn't... but it ain't the first time I've been wrong. Any and all assistance is welcome. Thanks.... -ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Spenny@aol.com Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 19:16:41 -0400 Subject: painting all, How much paint do i need to buy to cover my 88? the wheels & top will be limestone, the rest poppy red, I dont need to paint the interior, but some leftover for touch up would be nice thanks. spenny ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 25 May 95 16:34:46 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Failed emissions, need help... FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Failed emissions, need help... Hello all you wonderfully intelligent wizards in "netland"! (Buttering you up for the kill...) I need a bit of help passing the new emissions for a 1971 Land Rover IIa "88" 4 cyl. petrol. My results were: HC at load: (500 allowable) 159 recorded - Passed HC at idle: (500 allowable) 271 recorded - Passed CO at load: (5.5 allowable) 5.67 recorded - FAILED CO at idle: (5.5 allowable) 5.58 recorded - FAILED The truck runs well, although idle speed may be a bit high. Where should I look to solve this??? Does anyone have the tune-up spec's for this? I have NO information. Point gap=? Dwell=? Timing=? Idle speed=? Plug gap=? # turns for fuel mixture=? (I think it's a webber) (it's not solex or rochester) Would this information be the same as a '70 109? Thanks a lot for your help!! #=====# #========# -------,___ |___|__\___ |___|__|__\___ |--' | | \_|_ | _ | |_ |} | _ | | |_ |} | _ |--+--|_ | "(_)""""(_)" "(_)"""""""(_)" ||_/_\___|__/_\_|} (_) (_) 1971 "88" IIa 1970 "109" IIa 1994 Discovery (for sale $30,500 obo) (Too hard to "draw") #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 18:22:20 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: 109 Wiring Harness Replacement ? > The existing wiring is almost certainly original pre '67 > (probably '65) cloth wrapped and looks to have the potential for many [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)] > Cheers, > Jeremy Bartlett I have a friend who bought a Dormobile "parts kit." It had been converted to a Chevy six. The PO had started to rewire by cutting (with a hack saw) the main harness in two places, where it goes through the fire wall. He was doing this to solve mysterious electrical problems. I spliced all the cut wires back together, and trimmed off all the cloth jacket. There was one burned wire inside the harness, caused by poor workmanship for the engine conversion. He has had NO more electrical problems due to wiring. The Lucas wiring inside the old cloth jacket on your Rover is better than anything you could replace it with, except a new, OEM harness. Just trim off the old cloth jacket and clean the harness with 409 or Simple Green. Replace any wires that are burned or worn through, there won't be (m)any. Put wire tyes on the harness evey few inches. Clean the connections with a wire brush and WD. Your truck is probably + earth. It is easy to change it to - earth. Install a GM Delco alternator and turn the battery around. I can FAX you a copy of the wiring for the alternator. Everything will work just fine, except the ameter will read backwards, but you can turn that around if it bothers you. Most "Joe Lucas" problems are caused by the people who try to fix things they don't understand. Regards, Bill G. ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 18:30:12 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: More on paint...help! > I am at present in the throes of trying to get an authentic Rover bronze > Green mixed at my local paint store. I would go wth original lacquer, > but with lacquers becoming illegal in the US as of August I was looing > toward the future and hoping to be able to go with an acrylic or urethane > enamel. Here's a quick cut and paste of more answers than you wanted. R, bg any DuPont paint jobber should be able to mix up Rover colors in single quart cans. (If anyone has any other #'s, pass them along.) Bronze green 38500 Mid grey 38501 Sand 38502 Marine blue 38503 Pastel green 38504 Limestone 38505 Poppy red 38506 Burnt grey 38508 Davos white 38514 Mexican brown 38519 Cameron green 38520 Almond yellow 38521 Sand ACF/004 or 26291 Almond yellow 38521 "camel yellow" SandGlow, it is also a old Jaguar color For "DuLux" alkyd enamle, append a "D" to the paint color number. Add an "L" of laquer, or "A" for Centari acrylic enamel. Other part numbers: Dulux hardener 77s Aluminum cleaner 225s Aluminum conversion coating 226s "Variprime" two-part primer 615s Engine enamel "Detroit Diesel Alpine Green" #225 (made by Tempo) Automotive paints are quite sensitive to temperatures: use the following thinners/retarders. If you must paint at higher temps, add an anti-wrinkle agent: DuLux Thinner Temp Range Centari Thinner Temp Range #8508 below 65 F #8034 below 70 F #3812 65-75 F #8022 70-85 F #3864 70-80 F #8093 above 85 F #8522 above 80 F The DuLux cannot be clear-coated, though the Centari can be protected in this fashion. DuLux can be mixed for brush application (like for roofs) rather than spray applicatio, though. DuPont "Corlar" two-part epoxy is another primer alternative. As it is intended for aircraft, it is only available in gallon cans, and in grey. Better living through chemistry... I wasn't trying to sell AB's paint, but only thought the color names might be of interest. Right you are on being able to buy it anywhere, and here are the match numbers, courtesy Rovers North. Don't blame me if you go out and get 10 gallons and it don't match. I got some Dupont acrylic enamel to paint my fire wall with this number and it dosn't match anything, but that's just because the thing is so fadded and oxidized. I'm sure these are as correct as you can get. And a lovley red it is. Dupont Centari Ditzler Glasurit Limestone 38505A 46251 Marine Blue 38503A 16514 ROV504 Poppy Red 38506AH ROV303 Light (Pastel) Green 38504A ROV605 Sand ACF/004 or 26291 Bronze Green 38500A 46451 LEY637 Arctic White Regards, Bill G. Taken from the Rovers North newsletter (Spring '91), the paint codes for popular Series Land Rover colors are: RM Supermax Ditzler Glasurit Dupont Centauri Limestone RV-040 46251 38505-A Marine Blue RV-017 16514 ROV-504 38503-A Poppy Red RV-029 ROV-303 38506-AH Pastel Green RV-028 ROV-605 38504-A Bronze Green RV-027 46451 LEY-637 38500-A Some colors require white primer, others grey. ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 25 May 95 21:38:32 EDT From: "R. Pierce Reid, OH" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: Stupid D90 Question # 47/misc. Has anyone tried to fit leather gaiters on a D90? Does LR make a set? My Series LR's always benefitted immensely from gaiters and I would like to put them on the D90 while the swivel balls are still shiny and unpitted. Anyone done this yet? Is there an LR part number? Am I sounding like Taylor? Also... for those upset with the black sticky stuff on the steering wheels... a recent issue of LRO magazine (April, I think) has a short piece in it about a product used especially to restore steering wheels. It's a heavy black epoxy enamel paint that totally restores the wheel to new condition. Perhaps someone who subscribes (I steal my dad's copies when I visit VT, so I don't have any recent issues yet) can post the company name. I have used Wheelskins on my Porsche. Very nice. Felt great on the wheel. Fine on a hardtop LR... but on a softtop, it would be mushy, then faded. Then tattered -- all in about one season. &#^)@*!!! The trailer is almost down to the last nut... I am stripping the frame and box down to bare metal. BTW, anyone who wants a really top-notch stripper, go to NAPA. Their Metal stripper (part 6802 or something like that) is amazing. Within the first 10 seconds of application, it ate the paint off and then melted the brush. Anyone see Alien? $26 a gallon and the best stripper I've ever used. Says on the can "For professsional use only" and you have to request it. We're all professional beer-drinkers, so we qualify. Cheers... I am off to Denver for the weekend, BTW... I'll let you all know of any sightings! R. Pierce Reid ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 21:56:46 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Camel Trophy Daily Log Wednesday, May 24th - Working in shifts around the clock, Camel Trophy participants uncovered secrets of the past in the dense Central American jungle. "in the past two days, we've already covered half the ground we had planned in order to map the perimeter of the site," said project leader Rick Bronson. "The manpower that the Camel Trophy afforded us has enabled us to do work in 2 days that would normally have taken months or even years. They have been amazingly enthusiastic," he continued. The most important find of the day was uncovered by the teams from Spain and the Canary Islands. Though excavating a looted tomb, they found a perfectly intact black ceramic bowl dated to c. 750 AD. "We had been digging all night and were really drained," said Belen Sanchez of Spain. "To find this gives everyone a great sense of achievement." After two days in the tropic heat and humidity, the team faced the 8-10km hike back to the Discoveries where they were to get a few hours sleep before hitting the trail again. The next major obstacle will be Lago Peten Itza which will likely require a day to get all vehicles across. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950526 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 21 lines 1044 [forwarded 48 whitespace 239] Output: lines 908 [content 585 forwarded 25 (cut 23) whitespace 227]Back Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.