Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 RICKCRIDER@aol.com 22RR Tire Substitute?
2 [Glen_Rees@parlon2.ccmai36Electronic Ignition
3 Alan Richer [Alan_Richer9Re: Wing Holes
4 jpappa01@InterServ.Com 17Re: ARC 1995
5 rwegner@fimage.synapse.n28PTO units
6 Pierce Reid [PREID@csi.c16Gun box price
7 "Richard Lucking" [BU06332 Weber carbs - and economy!
8 "Larry Rubens" [lmr@netc18 Rover Mechanics in Michigan
9 Donald Abbot [donald@spl9Re: THANX and here we come AFRICA
10 Charlie Wright [cw117@mo30Economy Magnets?
11 "Russell G. Dushin" [dus29Re: Economy Magnets?
12 Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu19Re: Economy Magnets?
13 gpool@pacific.pacific.ne45Re: Wing Holes
14 harincar@internet.mdms.c30Re: Wing Holes
15 Ray Harder [ccray@showme22steering wheel stickys -- solved...
16 Charlie Wright [cw117@mo17Re: steering wheel stickys -- solved...
17 harincar@internet.mdms.c26Re: steering wheel stickys -- solved...
18 Marcus Tooze [tooze@vinn91970 109 wiring harness for sale
19 brabyn@skivs.ski.org (Jo17Re: Battery light and Tachome...
20 brabyn@skivs.ski.org (Jo23Re: RR Tire Substitute?
21 rover@pinn.net (Alexande52Camel Trophy Daily Logs
22 rover@pinn.net (Alexande23Overheating
23 Sanna@aol.com 17Re: RR Tire Substitute?
24 caloccia@land-rover.team18Re: Disco tire pressures
25 caloccia@land-rover.team18Re: Baby Rattles
26 caloccia@land-rover.team38Re: flakey oil pressure warning lamp/sender circuits
27 rclizza@uclink2.berkeley18Need help in RSA


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From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 04:16:45 -0400
Subject: RR Tire Substitute?

Am very unhappy with my replacement set of Michelin original equipment type
tires (205 R 16) on my 1988 Range Rover.   They are about 3 years old with
about 28,000 miles. Decent tread remaining.   About 98% of those miles are
purely road miles.    Sidewalls show excessive (seems to me) cracking.    One
tire just won't hold air.   Soapy suds test reveals *many*  (10 or more) tiny
leaks,  even in the sidewalls,  and show no obvious punctures.   Another tire
has apparently broken a belt in the circumfrence  (sp?)  of the tire,
 causing extreme shimmy in the front end.   Didn't discover this till I
replaced all joints in steering arms and replaced the damper only to still
have shimmy.   Putting the truck on a lift and spinning the tire visually
reveals the 'lump' in the tire.   Anyone with similar problems?    Should I
expect Michelin to stand behind this?    Any reccomendations for replacements
of a different brand?   Perhaps a little larger,  huskier tire?   Truck is
used daily and mostly on the road.    Help and suggestions appreciated.
  Thanks.
Rick Crider    <rickcrider@aol.com>

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Date: 24 May 95 07:08:45 EDT
From: <Glen_Rees@parlon2.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Electronic Ignition

     Message sent when Majordomo@Dogbolter.fellover
     
     Croeso,
     
     I have an electronic ignition system fitted to my series 1, 
     this unit is a Boyer Energy Electronic Ignition system, and 
     only costs $20 posted UK (tax free available). The unit 
     retains & converts the points to a low tension switch, which 
     do not burn out, and the gap is not critical, the unit itself 
     becomes an electronic HT switch taking only 10 mins. to fit!
     
     The old girl now starts first time, every time (almost), and 
     runs smoother. I used to get through sets of points (which 
     were getting more difficult to get hold of) every 1K miles! 
     the current set has been in for 20K with no sign of pitting, 
     also better MPG. I know of a 101 FC, V8 using this system, and 
     a SII, both with excellent results. The size of the kit is 
     smaller than a packet of cigarettes.
     
     Boyer Bransden Electronics Ltd.    Tel:01622 30939 Frindsbury 
     House,
     Cox Lane,                          They take credit cards 
     Detling,
     Maidstone,
     Kent,
     ME14 3HE
     England.
     
     "Land Rover Owners do it on all fours"
     
     Glenn

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From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 24 May 95  7:42:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Wing Holes

The wing hole is for a fresh-air heater, a la Kodiak Mk. III or some such. My
64 SIIa has one (missing the connection to the panel thanks to the mouth
breather of a previous owner).

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From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com
Date: Wed, 24 May 95 06:17:37 PDT
Subject: Re: 	ARC 1995

Hi All:

Glad to see the list back up! Our merry little band is off to Lincoln today 
for the `95 ARC rally.

Anyone who is going to be in the Lincoln area/rally please swing by the BSROA 
club stand and heave a pint with us!! Should be a great time. I'll report upon 
my return.

Cheerz
Jim - now completely mad... and loving it!

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Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 09:30:58 -0500
From: rwegner@fimage.synapse.net (Richard Wegner)
Subject: PTO units

Hi All,

It's nice to have the digest back again.

I have been busy sealing the transmission up again so the oil will stay in!
Replaced all gaskets and seals I could find, and put new nuts (with
loctite) on the bolts holding the bell housing on to the transmission, so
it will not work loose and starting leaking in the near future, I hope. Now
I just need to get the whole thing back in the Rover, hopefully in the next
day or so.

Meanwhile all this talk of PTO units, has whetted my appetite. I have been
thinking for some time of adding a PTO unit to the back of the Rover. I
have followed the discussion on transfer case bottom PTO units with
interest.

I would like to find out more about PTO accessories and possible sources of
same, so would appreciate any leads.

John, did your family really nickname your Rover "FOLLY"?  Better buy
another one now or else it will always be known as "FOLLY".

Later........Richard

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Date: 24 May 95 09:26:50 EDT
From: Pierce Reid <PREID@csi.compuserve.com>
Subject: Gun box price

Group:

Can anyone in the UK look up the price of a LR part for me in the UK?  The U.S.
Price on this is outrageous ($405)

It is a Genuine LR part number:    STC 8018L  It's a gunbox for a D90 (I finally
found one!!!!!)

Thanks, 

R. Pierce Reid

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From: "Richard Lucking" <BU063@ist2.co.umist.ac.uk>
Date:          Wed, 24 May 1995 14:50:19 GB/EIRE
Subject:       Weber carbs - and economy!

I have a SIIa SWB 2.25 petrol that has been fitted with A weber type 
34 ICH carb at some point. I understand that these were fitted for 
"economy", I am getting about 16mpg around town now. Does anyone know 
what I should be getting?

It seems to be running a bit rich lately, with some black smoke when 
reved. I can adjust it myself, but as it is not a standard carb, is 
not in the manual, does anyone know how to do it, I don't want to 
ruin the settings, as it runs alright otherwise!

I saw in this months LRO that I should change back to the origional 
carb, anyone got any pros/cons?

Some previous owner seems to have fitted a fuel magnet - "Power Plus" 
do these actually work? I am *very* tempted to remove it!

Thanks for any advice
Cheers
Tricky
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Richard Lucking                      
phone:(0161) 224 6641 (Term)          email:bu063@ist2.co.umist.ac.uk 
                      (Flat 48)          or: se063@sna.co.umist.ac.uk
    Life is a Sexually Transmitted Disease, invariably fatal
Disclaimer: All opinions are my own, or so i've been told....
=====================================================================

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From: "Larry Rubens" <lmr@netcom.netcom.com>
Date:          Wed, 24 May 1995 07:54:02 -0800
Subject:       Rover Mechanics in Michigan

Does anyone know of knowledgeable Land Rover mechanics, dealers or
cognoscenti  in Northern Michigan?  The Northern part of the lower
peninsula preferably.

E-mail any replies directly to me at lmr@netcom.com to avoid 
cluttering the list.  I can submit a summary if requested.

TIA!

                                             Regards

                                                  ...Larry Rubens

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Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 16:56:25 +0200 (GMT+0200)
From: Donald Abbot <donald@spl.co.za>
Subject: Re: THANX and here we come AFRICA

On Tuesday Barry Dudley wrote:
> Subject: THANX and here we come AFRICA

Good luck. I hope you enjoy your trip.

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Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 15:44:46 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Economy Magnets?

I've seen these in all sorts of rags, and being a scientist, I scoffed... 
But does anyone have practical or even theoretical experience with them?

Honestly, I've never even understood what _contrived_ physical principle
these claim to work on... let alone tried one.  Fuel is non-polar for 
goodness sake! No dipole moment = very little magnetic 
interaction...particularly from a fixed magnet... now perhaps if you had 
a NMR coil around each piston ;-) "Please remove all credit cards and 
watches before operating this vehicle."

Personally, I'm under the impression that they claim to give more power
and/or economy => The user adds the device and then steps on the pedal to
find out if he has more power, and discovers that the engine had more guts
than previously realised... but the economy drops, user calls the mfg. of
the 'PowerMiser' and is told that he gets power OR economy. User then
panics, uses a light foot, and gets better economy... 

So they may work, after a fashion.

Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

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From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: Economy Magnets?
Date: Wed, 24 May 95 11:31:39 EDT

> I've seen these in all sorts of rags, and being a scientist, I scoffed... 
> But does anyone have practical or even theoretical experience with them?

none.

> Honestly, I've never even understood what _contrived_ physical principle
> these claim to work on... let alone tried one.  Fuel is non-polar for 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> a NMR coil around each piston ;-) "Please remove all credit cards and 
> watches before operating this vehicle."

But the impurities in gasoline may not neccessarily be.....then again,
just 'cause they've got a dipole moment doesn't mean they'll be
congregating around that chunk 'o magnet you just added to your tank-
its contents sloshing about and all.  Metal filings, OK, but a trace
of some heterocyclic contaminant (upon which the attractive force is
miniscule).......naaaaaaaaaah.

Probably just end up buggering up yer fuel sender.
If you pay enough for it, the placebo effect is bound to prove me wrong!

rgds,
rd/nigel

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From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Economy Magnets?
Date: Wed, 24 May 95 16:29:14 BST

Agreed.About the only method I can think of to test
them is to install one while the owner isnt looking.
But...users do say they work.But not so well on a 
diesel.
Reminds me of the comment an old mechanic friend of
mine made.On the subject of souping up a Mini.He
reckoned the cheapest way of suoping it up was to
install a weaker throttle return spring.He even
did it several times for customers.They were *ever*
so pleased with the result!

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 09:27:49 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool)
Subject: Re: Wing Holes

Tim, regarding your wing-hole question:

>Why is the hole present on the right side wing of some series Rovers?
>My '66 IIa 88 doesn't have one, and I haven't been able to tell why some
>models have this and some don't. Is there a cool option that I'm missing?

More of a "warm" option, actually.  Later (I think starting in '68 in the
U.S.) Series IIAs and Series IIIs have, as original equipment, fresh-air
heaters that use that hole in the right wing (if left-hand drive) as an air
intake for the heater blower.  The blower assembly is mounted inside the
wing, with the heater core mounted in the passenger-side footwell, with an
air-distribution box across the bottom of the dash panel.  RHD LRs have it
on the left.  This heater is a *massive* improvement over the round or flat
Smiths heaters which were standard in older Land-Rovers.

But earlier Series IIs and IIAs, such as yours, had an option of an even
more powerful fresh air heater, the famed "Kodiak" which, I understand, was
made in Canada.  I have not heard any confirmation as to whether or not it
is still available new.  Rovers north sells another brand, the Mansfield,
which is reputed to be even more powerful than the Kodiak.

Incidentally, the installation of Kodiak heaters (at least I think they were
all Kodiaks => someone correct me if I'm wrong) seems to have lent itself to
considerable creative license over the years.  I have two old Series II 88"
station wagons that have these heaters and each has a different arrangement
for its fresh-air intake.  One (a '61) has the hole in the outside of the
left wing, as you have questioned.  The other (a '60) has the hole in the
inside panel of the wing, in the front, in the radiator breakfast area, with
a long duct running inside the wing from the blower to the intake hole.  A
friend who lives nearby has a '65 Series IIA 88" station wagon with one of
these heaters and his has a duct from the blower that stays in the engine
compartment and takes its air from the right-hand slot of the grille, to the
right of the radiator.  Interesting, eh?  Would be interesting to do some
sort of test to see which works the best...

Cheers,

Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, North California, USA
Several old Land-Rovers and other dubiously collectible vehicles
<gpool@pacific.pacific.net> (707)485-7220 Home; (707)463-4265 Work

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From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 11:42:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Wing Holes

Granville wrote:

> Incidentally, the installation of Kodiak heaters (at least I think they were
> all Kodiaks => someone correct me if I'm wrong) seems to have lent itself to
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> right of the radiator.  Interesting, eh?  Would be interesting to do some
> sort of test to see which works the best...

Bingo! Thats *exactly* the way mine is set up (a '66 station wagon). I 
*thought* I had the Kodiak heater, from the descriptions I heard. No 
visible core (its buried in the passenger footwell), etc. Boy, I'll tell
you what - If the Kodiak is the "high output" or "high performace"
heater, I feel really, really sorry for anyone in a cold climate with 
a Smith. I've considered adding a heater in the rear a la 109 or, gasp,
the Toyota FJ40 which had two heaters. The P.O. reportedly had the core
cleaned out before I bought it (and I have a reciept for some work), but
in weather less than 20 degrees it stays only marginally warmer. Maybe
I'll take another look before winter to see that I'm getting max output.

Tim
'66 IIa 88 SW
---
tim harincar                   moore graphic services
harincar@internet.mdms.com     minneapolis, mn

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Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 11:56:32 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: steering wheel stickys -- solved...

The black sticky stuff that comes off of the steering wheel
in humid weather was discussed in past threads.  My solution
is quite classy:
     MOSS motors (800-235-6954) part number 222-315
          "Steering wheel cover black"
          $24.95 US plus $7.10 US shipping and handling.

This was designed for 17 inch steering wheels as found on the
AH-3000 machines.  Black leather with a lace.  The instructions
say "tight is right".  Took about 1 hour.  The leather feels
and looks great.  I think the Rover runs faster, too.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ray Harder                 Columbia, Missouri   314-882-2000
- 61 SIIa 88 (LULU, aka Experimental)  - 66 SIIa 88 (rebuild project)
- 69 SIIa 88 (parts)                   - 87 RR      (wife's)
---------------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 18:30:00 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: steering wheel stickys -- solved...

> The black sticky stuff that comes off of the steering wheel

>      MOSS motors (800-235-6954) part number 222-315
>           "Steering wheel cover black"
>           $24.95 US plus $7.10 US shipping and handling.

There is a black leather cover from Paddock (?) or one of the LRO Intl. 
dealers, which is also designed to fit the big wheel.  It's priced at 
about 9 pounds ($12). I can't vouch for quality or durability, but I 
think I might order one.

Charlie

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From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 12:57:55 -0500
Subject: Re: steering wheel stickys -- solved...

In the US, try a company called WheelSkins. Custom made wheel 
covers, for the 19" wheel of my IIa it was $32.65 for the leather
cover. Send a check, with the O.D. of the wheel, plus the diameter
of the tube from the outside edge to the high point of a finger
bump/grip and they;ll make it for you.

WheelSkins
2821 10th Street
Berkely, CA 94710
800.755.2128

P.S. I don't own one of their covers, yet. I just got this info recently
but haven't done anything with it. I also don't work for WheelSkins or
own any of their stock.

Tim
'66 Iia 88 SW
---
tim harincar                      moore graphic services
harincar@internet.mdms.com        minneapolis, mn

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Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 16:34:28 -0500
From: Marcus Tooze <tooze@vinny.cecer.army.mil>
Subject: 1970 109 wiring harness for sale

In good shape, ordered from the UK but I don't need it now. It is
the main harness from the engine back. $50 plus shipping.

Marcus

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Date: Wed, 24 May 95 14:38:31 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re: Battery light and Tachome...

The black box you refer to was also suggested to me by the local service 
guy as the other possibility -- but costs $200-odd to replace. He suggested
that, if that is the problem (sounds like it is in your case) you can disconnece
it and still have the low oil pressure light work by effectively bypassing
the logic unit. I haven't looked closely enough to see exactly how to
do this, but it sounds like a reasonable solution. The box is under the 
dash on the driver's side, and I think is literally a black box.

Cheers

John Brabyn
89 RR

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Date: Wed, 24 May 95 14:49:25 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  RR Tire Substitute?

Haven't had the same problem, but did have one tire that in its late life
developed a series of pinhole leaks in the tread that were too numerous to
fix and meant a weekly topup with air was needed. However my tires have
all seen hard off-road beating and the one in question was about worn out 
anyway.

If I had your problem, I'd definitely have a go at getting the tires replaced for 
for free. 

I haven't tried alternative tires, though I've seen 225 75 R16 used, almost
the same outside diameter and no doubt more commonly available. However among
tire people I've talked to, they all have great respect for the original Michelins
and especially their strength. 

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

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Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 17:58:37 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Camel Trophy Daily Logs

After the first set of special tasks, the US team of Jim Swett (30, of 
Lebanon, CT) and Daphne Green (33, Ross, CA) are tied with the French in 
sixth place. Poland leads, followed by Greece, South Africa, the Czech 
Republic and Italy.  

Monday, May 22nd - The Camel Trophy convoy crossed the border into Mexico at 
La Union and were greeted by an impromptu party staged by the townsfolk.  
"After two days of flogging ourselves on the special tasks and the prospect 
of driving all night, the chance for a taco and a cold drink was not one to 
be missed," said Peter Bakos of Hungary.

Luxuries did not last long, for five km down the road, the convoy pulled off 
the tarmac onto an old logging road, bound for Rio Azul on the Guatamala 
border.  Even though the reconaissance team had been through 9 months ago, 
downed trees and dense scrub blocked the route.  Teams worked through the 
night to clear the way, arriving at Tres Bandieros in the wee hours of the 
morning; they managed to get all of three hours of sleep.

Tuesday, May 23rd - At daybreak, the trek to Rio Azul continued.  Once 
there, the teams toured the remains of 50 meter high temples before 
departing for a two day mapping expedition of a nearby site that was only 
discovered in 1988.

Led by Canadian archaeological expert Rick Bronson who discovered the site, 
the participants had to hike about 8 km to the yet unnamed Mayan city near 
Rio Ixcan.  Carrying 20 kg backpacks, this trek took about three hours in 
the tropical heat and humidity.  Half of the group, however, got lost in the 
dense undergrowth and spent another frustrating two hours to find the 
destination.

Once there, the team will spend two days mapping the 1 km square site.  
Because of the difficulty reaching the site, Bronson had not been back since 
his discovery.  Almost immediately, the team found the main plaza of the 
settlement, estimated to have once been a city of 5,000.  Teams will work in 
round-the-clock shifts, some mapping the site, others beginning exploratory 
excavations of some of the temples.  Already, small artifacts dating from 
750 AD have been found; unfortunately, so has evidence of recent grave 
robbers.  Because of the location of the site astride the Mexico/Guatamala 
border, represenatives from both countries are supervising the work.

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

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Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 17:58:48 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Overheating

Steve ge Guire (JSSA@ix.netcom.com) write about overheating problems on a RN 
rebuilt engine with less that 1,000 miles on the clock.

Could this be the "genuine" head gaskets mentioned here several months ago. 
Mark called me up and took me to task for printing the warning about 
supposedly defective genuine headgaskets in the last issue of The Gearbox"; 
he offered to write an article explaining the whole affair.  Seems the Rover 
engineers planned the back three pistons to have smaller holes over the 
valves.  I dunno; a friend here takes the head gaskets and punches out the 
holes to where he thinks they oughta be and he's *never* had an overheating 
problem.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

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From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 18:28:00 -0400
Subject: Re: RR Tire Substitute?

>Am very unhappy with my replacement set of Michelin original equipment type
tires (205 R 16) on my 1988 Range Rover.   Another tire has apparently broken
a belt in the circumfrence  (sp?)  of the tire, causing extreme shimmy in the
front end.   Didn't discover this till I replaced all joints in steering arms
and replaced the damper only to still have shimmy.<

Rick - My '89 was the same way.  It really wallowed around the road.  I
fiddled with the stearing adjustments, replaced all of the steering bushings,
etc.  I almost dropped a grand on a swaybar kit, only to find when I blew out
one of the sidewalls hitting a curb and replaced the front tires that all my
handling problems miraculously disapeared.

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Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 01:52:10 +0100
From: caloccia@land-rover.team.net (Bill Caloccia)
Subject: Re: Disco tire pressures

>I've got a question about the recommended tire pressures for on-road travel
>in Disco's.  According to the manual, front tires should be inflated to 26
>psi and rear to 34 psi.

The tyre chart on the wall at my local tyre shop recommended  1.8 bar front
and 2.5 bar rear for pre-8<something> range rovers.... so you're not alone

    Cheers,
        --bill  caloccia@Team.Net   <web: "http://www.senie.com/billc/">

      1  3     dl OD  L           "Land Rover's first, because
      |--|--+  o  |   |            Land Rovers last."
      2  4  R  ul N   H           '72 Range Rover

------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 01:52:18 +0100
From: caloccia@land-rover.team.net (Bill Caloccia)
Subject: Re: Baby Rattles

>My SRIIA 88" has a nasty rattle...loose-metal sounding thing...when I'm
>going up a hill or the engine is straining. Sound's like it is coming from
>the back of the engine. It is a new noise...not one of the usual Rover

Well considering the correctness of my recent audio-based diagnosis,
I won't hazard to guess.    :-)

    Cheers,
        --bill  caloccia@Team.Net   <web: "http://www.senie.com/billc/">

      1  3     dl OD  L           "Land Rover's first, because
      |--|--+  o  |   |            Land Rovers last."
      2  4  R  ul N   H           '72 Range Rover

------------------------------
[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950525 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 01:52:58 +0100
From: caloccia@land-rover.team.net (Bill Caloccia)
Subject: Re: flakey oil pressure warning lamp/sender circuits

Oil pressure is one of those things that, when it does go, it really sucks.

Club racers often only have two warning lamps, a big orange one for the
rev limiter and a big red one for oil pressure.

If you're at the top of your rev's then you're probably not getting much
additional power, if you've got no oil pressure, you've got a few thousand
revolutions before your motor stops, probably permanently, of course, that
would happen in a matter of seconds at speed.

Now, if you like the location of the stock guage and indicator, then it
would be best to directly wire the indicator lamp to the pressure switch,
and the stock guage as well.  If there are still problems then I'd be
mighty tempted to replace the sender and guage with either Stewart Warner
or VDO components.

If you can replace the stock guage, then go for a Stewart Warner or VDO,
and get their senders and replace the whole lot.
---------------------
PS the flat tyre was due to a chaffed tube, due to some garbage in the
    mounted tyre (there was a bit which looked like the foil backing from
    blister pack things or rubber patches)
PPS and the battery had a dead cell (at least I only hauled my load of
    contraband up to the first floor office instead of the third floor
    car park before discovering the dead battery :-)
Next tasks: book le shuttle, flush the brake fluid, get travel insurance...

    Cheers,
        --bill  caloccia@Team.Net   <web: "http://www.senie.com/billc/">

      1  3     dl OD  L           "Land Rover's first, because
      |--|--+  o  |   |            Land Rovers last."
      2  4  R  ul N   H           '72 Range Rover

------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 19:16:48 -0800
From: rclizza@uclink2.berkeley.edu (Ryan C. Lizza)
Subject: Need help in RSA

I am looking for LR's in the RSA for this summer.  I am looking for
reconditioned 109's that I can make some small changes on after purchase.
In my pursuit of the LR's I was informed by a friend of mine who owns a
farm near Tzaneen about a company called BellTrade that can get me what I
want.  Unfortunately, his fax was cut short and I did not find out where
BellTrade was or how I could reach them (phone or fax #).  He left after
sending the fax, out oof the country for a few days and cannot be reached.
I was also informed about a man called Tom Deveraux in Jo-burg who can also
get the LR's I am looking for, but  I do not have his numbers either.  If
anyone knows of these operations and can tell me how I can get in contact
with them I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks
Dave Manchester

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  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.