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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 Craig Murray [craigp@ocs21Re: pleading ignorance
2 jhoward@argus.lowell.edu15Rochester carb & WARN hubs
3 "Paul Nash [paul@frcs.al20[not specified]
4 ac443@osfn.rhilinet.gov 26Mirrors & Beds
5 ac443@osfn.rhilinet.gov 29Brockhouse trailer
6 Lloyd Allison [lloyd@cs.40home pages
7 David John Place [umplac13Re: Brockhouse trailer
8 FMOTLEY@aol.com 18Re: #2(2) The Land Rover Owne...
9 "R. Pierce Reid, OH" [7016Infection
10 "R. Pierce Reid, OH" [7018Translation
11 "R. Pierce Reid, OH" [7033D90 Awesome -- Thanks LRNA!
12 JCassidyiv@aol.com 13Overseas Parts
13 gpool@pacific.pacific.ne53Land Rovers
14 Charlie Wright [cw117@mo37Oil, oil, everywhere.
15 "Stefan R. Jacob" [1000426Re: some questions
16 lwte@ngi.no (Lloyd Tunbr23Bleeding clutches
17 azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo34Removing steering dampers from 90s/110s
18 Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu25Re: Attn: Oily Wad Club members!!!
19 azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo23 Re:Mirrors and Beds
20 Franz.Parzefall@Physik.T37Re: Repost : How-To's and Steering Damper Fault
21 "GAWIE VAN BLERK" [A484642 Re: Repost : How-To's and Steering Damper Fault
22 Donald Abbot [donald@spl26Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
23 azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo25Re: Mirrors and Beds
24 "David McKain" [MCKAIN@f21 A-lume-in-um, Al-u-minium?
25 Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu16Re: Removing steering dampers from 90s/110s
26 Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu20Re: Oil, oil, everywhere.
27 Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu14Re: Land Rovers
28 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em43Re: Overseas Parts
29 azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo30Re: Removing steering dampers from 90s/110s
30 ScottFugate_Group1@ctdvn38Query: Buying a used Range Rover
31 harincar@internet.mdms.c35Exhaust musings
32 gpool@pacific.pacific.ne64Land-Rovers, Rhinos, & Gargoyles
33 Charlie Wright [cw117@mo35Re: Repost : How-To's and Steering Damper Fault
34 Jon Humphrey [jh5r+@andr21FS> New/unused Range Rover
35 cs@crl.com (Michael Carr13Re: Land Rovers
36 cs@crl.com (Michael Carr69Re: Bleedin' brakes !
37 "Lapa, Hank" [hlapa@Zeus42Re[2]: some questions
38 cs@crl.com (Michael Carr50Re: Removing steering dampers from 90s/110s
39 cs@crl.com (Michael Carr21Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest


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From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: pleading ignorance
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 95 9:00:17 EST

>  Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com> writes:

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> -Michael Carradine
>  cs@crl.com

Actually it is Turbo Direct Injection.

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |       My car is constipated,
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |       It has not passed a 
                                                |       thing all day!!

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Date: Wed, 19 Apr 95 17:00 MST
From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II)
Subject: Rochester carb & WARN hubs

Many thanks to all you all who responded to my inquiry about WARN
hubs.  One of you gave me WARN's phone number, so I called them, and
they faxed me the drawings and installation instructions.

My next query is, how do you, or can you, adjust the mixture on a
Rochester carb?  At Flagstaff's 7000 foot (2200 m) elevation, it is
running way too rich.  

James
jhoward@argus.lowell.edu

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Subject: Re: Tdi
From: "Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>"@tantrum.frcs.alt.za
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 11:02:36 +1000

>  > What is the Tdi and is it any different than the "stock" D90???
>  Turbo Diesel (Fuel) Injection.  Not available in the US.

Actually "Turbo (diesel) _direct_ injection".  This is to differentiate
it from the earlier 2.5 turbo diesel, which had indirect injection (into
a pre-combustion chamber, a'la the 2.25 diesel).  The Tdi is allegedly
far more responsive and reliable.

It'd be hard to be less responsive that a 2.25 diesel (although mine 
went _much_ better after a rebore, new head, new injection pump, &c --
it could break the 30km/hr barrier, and get all the way up to 94!).
It'd also be hard to be less reliable than the 2.5 turbo diesel -- they
have a reputation in SA for neading new heads every 30,000km or so (if
driven gently -- the military ones were mothballed 'cos with military
drivers they needed new heads before they were properly run-in)

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Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 21:15:40 -0400
From: ac443@osfn.rhilinet.gov (John Karlsson)
Subject: Mirrors & Beds

I used to have a bed in my 88" SW.  Very simple.  Two 1/4" bolts on each side

fastened through the body capping (using existing holes, rear seats removed)

supported a piece of 3/4" plywood cut to fit flush with the top of the box.

Another piece of plywood to cover front seat area except for steering wheel

rested on the dash in front, but after almost 20 years, I can't remember what

supported it at the rear, although it was a regular part of the Land Rover.

Only parts required:  four 1/4" x 1" bolts, four nuts, two pieces of plywood

cut to fit.  Sleeps two comfortably, even if not well acquainted.

John Karlsson

Hope Valley, RI

 

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Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 21:17:07 -0400
From: ac443@osfn.rhilinet.gov (John Karlsson)
Subject: Brockhouse trailer

I have a 1965 Brockhouse trailer, Type KS 1456, Ser # BT8 16633.  Can anyone

supply a list of part numbers for brakes, wheel bearings, etc.?  I have
always

assumed that it uses 109 parts, but I really don't know.  It doesn't need

immediate attention, but since I intend to keep it forever....

Also, I'm in need of a good, weatherproof, bulletproof wiring connector for

it.  The original was a rubber unit that was reasonably rugged, but it died

years ago.  Maybe somone interested in military equipment can offer a

suggestion.

Thanks.

John Karlsson

Hope Valley, RI

 

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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 11:28:51 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: home pages

I have the following collection of home pages that feature LRs in some way.
If anyone wants me to add or modify a link, just say.  The collection's URL is
http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/Net/Home.Pages.html

<UL>
<LI> <A HREF="http://www.senie.com/billc/">Bill Caloccia</A> gifs [3/'95].
<LI> <A HREF="http://128.220.90.135/hometest.html">Harry Greenspun</A>
     Disco jpg [3/95].
<LI> <A HREF="http://evo.net/bridgecam.html">Camera</A>
     is connected to a camera we set overlooking a place where we park
     adjacent to my building. My S3 is presently in prime camera position.
     The image is updated every 4 minutes (and looks black at night).<BR>
     -jory   jory@mit.edu (jory bell) [3/95].
<LI> <A HREF="http://eve.adam.com.au/~lhowie/">Leith Howie</A> [2/95].
<LI> <A HREF="ftp://gate1.srp.gov/pub">David Brown ftp</A> Disco gif [2/95].
<LI> <A HREF="http://www.netpress.com/jimmyp/">Jimmy Patrick</A> gifs [2/95].
<LI> <A HREF="http://mercury.cair.du.edu/~tomills/">T.F.Mills</A> [2/95].
<LI> <A HREF="http://stein3.u.washington.edu:6000/">Joel Reiter</A>
     features the Rover factory tour [2/95].
<LI> <A HREF="http://www.tvnorge.no/~ketil/ketil.html">Ketil Kirkerud</A>
     has a
     <A HREF="http://www.tvnorge.no/~ketil/lr/index.html">L-R page</A>
     (gif) [1/95]
<LI> <A HREF="http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/bil/index.html">Terje Krogdahl</A>
     (gif) [1/95]
<LI> <A HREF="http://nickel.ucs.indiana.edu/~mliggett/">Matt Liggett</A>
     gif [12/94]
<LI> <A HREF="http://cpsv01.lancs.ac.uk/iss/tsg/cpags.htm">Gavin Silver</A>
     gif [12/94]
</UL>

Lloyd
Dept. of Computer Science, Monash University, Clayton, Victoria 3168, AUSTRALIA
tel: 61 3 905 5205       fax: 61 3 905 5146       email: lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au
<A HREF="http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/">Land-Rover</A>

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Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 21:42:58 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Brockhouse trailer

I found that putting the wire in a good new piece of rubber not plastic 
garden hose with RTV or silicone in the end and good fittings worked just 
as well as any expensive commercial line.  If you really want to get 
fancy, use heater hose with the cloth impregnated core.  I bought a full 
box roll for about $15 for something like 20 feet.  Attach it to the 
frame with clips for co-axial cable or rubber covered conduit clips etc. 
and you have a professional job. I put my ham radio rotator and co-ax in 
this type of setup and it lasts for years.  Dave VE4PN

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From: FMOTLEY@aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 23:04:20 -0400
Subject: Re: #2(2) The Land Rover Owne...

Hi all!

Just a quick note to let everyone know that if you look carefully in the new
movie "Bad Boys," you will see a decent looking Series III 88" Pick-up truck!
 It's only a mere second glance, but I know you will all see it!!  It's good
to know that our "Landies" are doing well in Hollywood.

Semper Roving,

Frank Motley
'71 Series IIA 88"
'90 Range Rover County

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Date: 19 Apr 95 23:55:32 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid, OH" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Infection

David McCain writes:

>> As usual, the frame is rotten but he can weld aluminum so, 
>> who knows

He'll have fun welding Aluminum on the frame... LR frames are steel and the two
metals don't mix ;-).

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid 

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Date: 20 Apr 95 00:01:11 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid, OH" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Translation

Peter Writes:

>> Is there a Englich-German dictionary for Landrovers available in the >> net? 

Not that I am aware of on the 'Net but CompuServe has a machine ranslation forum
where you can get your messages translated German --> English or vice versa...
also to French and Spanish.

Guten Tag,

GeerBochs Von AxleHausen

aka R. P. Reid 

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Date: 20 Apr 95 00:11:51 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid, OH" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: D90 Awesome -- Thanks LRNA!

Well, I picked up my D90 this afternoon.  Coniston Green, '94 model with all
options, used with 800 miles on it.  A bargain to boot.

It is one of the most impressive vehicles I have driven.  It has the solidity of
a Mack Truck (and the driing position) and truly commands the road.  

Power is amazing... First time I put it in gear I put it in 3rd by mistake.  Did
not matter, it just drove off.  

Road manners are impeccable.  Cruises at 70 with no problems.

Best of all, it is unquestionably a Land Rover.  It's noisy, the top rattles,
the tire noise drowns out all conversation and you can hear the v8 growl when
you give it some gas.  It even has an electrical quirk whereby the trailer
indicator flashes (just once) whenever you use the turn signals.  All these
features that no Land Rover enthusiast can live without and that no
non-enthusiast can live with (thus the readily available supply of used D90's
with a couple of thousand miles on them).   
Land Rover North America, if you're listening... THANK YOU -- you got everything
right with this one!

Cheers,

R. Pierce Reid

'94 D90 (yet unnamed -- any suggestions?)
'62 IIa Military "The Sgt. Major"
'58 S I Fire Engine (restoration project) 

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From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 00:50:58 -0400
Subject: Overseas Parts

I know that this question has probably been posed before, but how do I go
about ordering parts for my series truck from Britain correctly?  Are there
any pitfalls that I should avoid?  Which companies are most reputable?  All I
have right now is a Paddock catalog.  Sorry if this is old discussion for
everyone, but it seems that some parts cost much less overseas.  Thanks for
the info.
                           J. Cassidy

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Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 22:24:01 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool)
Subject: Land Rovers

Thought you folks might enjoy this letter.  Jeff is a local archeologist who
admires Land-Rovers:

[start forwarded message]
    August 2, 1988
    
    Gargoyles, Inc.
    P.O. Box 4189
    Bellvue, WA
    98009
    
    Dear Sirs (or Madams),
    
    Enclosed you will find one pair of glasses which has had
    it's right lens severed. You may find the circumstances that
    surround this unfortunate accident entertaining. I purchased the
    glasses in June of this year to take on a holiday in Africa. The
    glasses performed flawlessly throughout my photo safaris in
    Kenya. I left Kenya and traveled to Tanzania were I spent a good
    deal of time taking hundreds of feet of wildlife footage. While
    at the Ngorongoro Crater (the largest concentration of animals on
    this planet) I was filming rhinos, I removed my Gargoyles and
    placed them in the lower left pocket of my photo vest. The rhinos
    became agitated and charged the Land Rover. My driver skillfully
    eluded the deadly primeval beasts, but being the dedicated (and
    probably a bit stupid) wildlife photographer that I am, I
    instructed the driver to get in front of them again so that I
    could film their charge. The driver reluctantly complied, and
    brought the vehicle about on the rhinos. The wind unexpectedly
    changed and the rhinos caught our scent, and suddenly 5000 lbs.
    of primeval fury charged to close the fifteen meter distance. I
    manned my post and continued to film with my head out the top of
    the vehicle while holding on to the roof. The Land Rover roared to
    life and lurched forward just as the largest rhino's horn peirced
    the left side of the Land Rover and struck the lower left pocket
    of my vest, thereby breaking my Gargoyles.
    
    I doubt that your warranty covers breakage by rhinos. I do
    trust that you found my escapade entertaining. I do wish to
    attest to your products superlative design and function. I have
    enclosed a check (ck #686) for six (6) dollars to cover shipping
    and handling. Please bill me for any other charges incured in the
    repair of my Gargoyles. I anxiously await their return.
    
    Sincerely,
    
    Jeff Hamilton
[end forwarded message]

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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 12:02:57 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Oil, oil, everywhere.

I have a general diagnostic for open-breather diesels (early 2.25). I've 
run my newer 2.25 since re-build with very little oil leakage (the usual 
out the bottom), but I just bought a '66 109 diesel with the older 
breather system. I drove it back to Cambridge from Surrey at a steady 50, 
and it pulled like a train (compared to my rebuild).  A much nicer motor to 
drive, but I stopped half way home to check fluids, etc, and the 
heretofore clean engine bay was oil-soaked!

I think (judging by the splash pattern) that it's coming out of the 
rocker-cover breather and being blown by the fan all over the rear engine 
compartment.  It covers the underside of the bonnet from about the breather 
to the bulkhead, and most parts inbetween.  Nothing shall rust.  Oil 
level hasn't fallen dramatically, but it is down from the start of the trip.

The motor hadn't made a trip like this in a while, so it was a new 
problem to both me and the previous owner?

Could this be a blocked breather? Other ideas? Pressure leaking past the 
valves into the rocker cover (ouch)?

I was thinking of switching to a closed breather system, but I expect that 
might just lead to burning the oil instead of spreading it?

Thoughts?

Cheers,
Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

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Date: 20 Apr 95 05:55:04 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: some questions

Peter Kutschera wrote:

> Endlich mal wer aus der "Naehe"!

I suppose others on the list are too, er, polite to point this out to you,
so I'll take it upon myself. First, welcome to the list! But please bear in
mind that...
 das hier eine internationale Internet-mailing list ist, wo englisch quasi
 "Amtssprache" ist.  Wir haben hier Leute aus den Niederlanden, Daenemark,
 Norwegen, Island... stell Dir vor, jeder breitet sich in seiner Landessprache
 aus.  Auch wenn es schwerfaellt, messages die fuer die *ganze* Liste gedacht
 sind bitte nur auf englisch, alles andere grundsaetzlich nur als private e-
 mail.  Vergiss nicht, dass alles was Du an die Liste schickst jedesmal von
 ueber 350 Leuten gelesen wird bzw. gelesen werden muss.  Wie gesagt, Du bist
 hier nicht der einzige, der englisch radebrecht, also nur zu.  Ausserdem
 lernst Du es auf diese Weise.

Servus,

Stefan - auch aus der Naehe (relativ)
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 10:38:53 +0200
From: lwte@ngi.no (Lloyd Tunbridge)
Subject: Bleeding clutches

I've been reading with interest the recent articles on bleeding brakes.  Now
bleeding brakes has never given me much of a headache - I can do that with
only a litre or two of fluid - but bleeding the hydraulic clutch!!!!!!!

I came up with one wheeze - a simple homemade pressure bleeder which might
help with brakes too (haven't tried it there yet). Take an old hydraulic
fluid reservoir cap (the brake and clutch reservoirs are the same on my
series IIA) , remove the loose bit inside and drill a hole so that you can
fir a tubeless tyre valve in it.  Fit it to your reservoir and pump up a
little pressure with your tyre pump (don't know what the limit is but mine
held with 2 bar). Loosen the bleed valves - hey presto!!  Might require some
light pumping on the pedal too.

Any other tips on bleeding clutches would be welcome.
---
Lloyd Tunbridge

1970 Series IIA 109" Safari currently standing without clutch and brakes!

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From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Removing steering dampers from 90s/110s
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 10:10:00 UNDEFINED

/I suppose I should have removed the steering damper for on-road use 
/even if it does wonders for my pectorals :-)  

They steer like sportscars without teh steering damper - very light steering - 
no imprecision. And most importantl;y, emergency stops are FAR safer cos the 
steering automatically centres like a real car. Wit teh damper, it doeesnt 
quite centre and full bore braking is seriously dangerous witht he thing 
snaking all over the place as you try to stop it getting away and rolling. 
Slides are also far easier to catch and control wihtout the damper cos you 
have instant response with teh steering, instead of the bloody damper refusing 
to react ot sudden inputs.

There are problems tho. Firstly, the steerinr will oscillate badly going over 
potholes with the inside front wheel under hard cornering (we're talking 
dumping Golf GiTs here.....), but this is not a big deal and all undamped 
vehicles with large wradius wheels tend to do it. The REAL problems are that 
you'll fail your MOT if all the factory fitted bits  arent there. And MOST 
important, if you have an accident, the insurance company will refuse to pay 
out on a modified but unnotified vehicle. So you could be left having to sell 
oyur house etc.

So, ironically, although removing the damper immeasurably improves tthe 
on-road handling adn safety, the beaurocrats will shit all over you if you do 
it.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

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From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Attn: Oily Wad Club members!!!
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 95 9:23:41 BST

Craig,
Sounds like a load of Kangaroo Krap to me.Last time I went to
get a 'stat,the guy said he wouldnt sell me a "hot" one,because
you dont want to overheat diesels,do you?No sir,says I.
I dont know what temp mine runs at,I only know the needle sits
in the miggle of the dial when at normal running temp.And the
bastard *still* smokes.But,I cant get any *black* smoke.What,
I ask fellow Oily Wadders,am I doing wrong?Going uphill,I WANT
MY BLACK SMOKE!!
I think I shall swallow my pride and buy a tin of liquid engineering
and stick the contents in the fuel tank.According to the write ups
this should cut down,or eliminate,the boring grey smoke,and give me
back my nice black stuff.And if you believe that,you'll believe
*anything*.The only question now is what make of super-stick-it-
the-tank-and-all-your-problems-will-be-little-ones shall I buy?
Wonder if it will run on Light Ale?

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject:  Re:Mirrors and Beds
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 08:52:02 UNDEFINED

/What annoys me is the fact that I was trying to do something similar only I
/failed because I was thinking hammock, not bunk.  After several failed
/riggings, and returning/exchanging 3 hammocks, I gave up, bit the bullet,
/and bought the tent.  Oh well, I couldn't have checked the Rover as carry
/on luggage when I flew to New Orleans for Mardi Gras...

I have used a hammmock strung diagonally in my hardtop 90. Unfortunately this 
wouldnt work in a softop. But theere aree 2 options. Either replace the corner 
guttter bolts adn windscreen bolts with climbing boltt-hangers and clip your 
hammock into these. Or thread the hammock ropes out of teh corners of teh 
lorry adn tie em in the centre of teh roof so the hammock forms a big loop 
supported by the roof. The latter is more mechanicalllly robust, but more 
susceptible to rednecks.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

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From: Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE
Subject: Re: Repost : How-To's and Steering Damper Fault
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 09:22:48 +0200 (MET DST)

Hi all,
I definitly like that how-to idea.

> Specific information on 'how to' do a particular job would be great, 
> particularly if any info. includes those little tips you only learn
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> engine/steering wheel/rear axle' but more often the problems are
> in diagnosis of a fault or people requiring general guidance.

Seems like a good idea. Why rewriting an existing book.

> How about a short how to list aimed at those first-time buyers (Taylor? Ever?)
> who get their new second/third/fourth hand baby home and then drive it around 
> for 2K miles and don't really know what to check up on.  Simple things you
> need to keep checking before your first catastrophe or major overhaul
> forces you to learn them!

That would be GREAT! That's exactly what I will need when I've finaly managed
to get my LR.

> Made it round the corner but can anyone suggest a good detergent for
> stained trousers?  
Try 0.5l of petrol and a burning candle ;-)

and: Peter
Perhaps we could try to do that dictonary together, for I've got the
same problem as you. Maybe there is someone else who wants to help.

---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall     fparzefa@physik.tu-muenchen.de     
---------------------------------------------------------------

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From: "GAWIE VAN BLERK" <A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za>
Date:          Thu, 20 Apr 1995 08:28:44 GMT+200
Subject:       Re: Repost : How-To's and Steering Damper Fault

Hi All

I could not reach any of the Rover sites on the web after 100's of 
tries. Would really appreciate a how to section in the FAQ.

Maybe just a small comment.

How about a tools list before each how to procedure.

For example.

HOW TO REPLACE WIDGET ON STEERING

Tools :                 1x 10mm spanner
                            1x Med Screwdriver
                            1x Long nosed pliers

Consumables :    3 drops 3in1 oil
                            1 splitpin

Procedure:

1.   Open bonnet
2.   Locate Steering widget to left back of oil filter
3. etc. etc

Just an Idea

Greetings
Gawie van Blerk
---------------------------------------------------------------
Internet : A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za (work)
         : gawie@pixie.co.za (home)
URL      : http://www.pix.za/0/business/bloemfontein/gawie.html
Tel      : 27+51+404-2421
---------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 09:58:15 +0200 (GMT+0200)
From: Donald Abbot <donald@spl.co.za>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Gawie replied:

> Let me know when next you are coming down to Lesotho. Would like to 
> try it out in winter. With snow and all that you know. Was thinking 
> of going in at Butha Butha round Oxbow, Mokotlong, down and up Sani 
> Pass and back to Maseru via  Thaba Tseka. 

That sounds like a good idea. I have made two trips to Lesotho by Land 
Rover. The first was when we bought the SIII. It already had the engine 
conversion and we wanted to test it over a rugged road. We did the trip 
as you descibed it but leaving Lesotho by going down the Sani Pass. About 
half way across Lesotho, one engine stradle broke!  The alternator prevented 
the engine from falling right out. Not carrying a spare (yes, we were 
naive, having only just bought the Land Rover), we tired it up using 
three spanners and a length of nylon rope. Every ten k's or so, we 
stopped to check and/or retie. Thus many of the photo's include the 
Landie with the bonnet up. This, we discovered later, is standard. Not 
that they have engine problems, but LROs always seem to be surprised 
that the engine is still there! :-) 

Donald  

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From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re:  Mirrors and Beds
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 08:47:03 UNDEFINED

/As for the beds bit.  Has anyone come up with a good scheme for two people
/sleeping in a SWB?  Specifically a soft top with tailgate and preferably in 
/somesort of weatherproof fashion.  We are not the tallest of people (5'5" or 
/175cmwhichever you prefer) but even so the back is a bit cramped.

I spent 3months last winter sleeping in my 90 in the hills. Very comfy. Only 
gave it up cos of pestering by paranoid farmers convinced I was rustling their 
sheep. I am 5'10".

I used a sunlounger placed along the wheelbox, over the load bulkhead, into 
the front (with teh seat backs folded down). You could easily do the same on 
both sides. A good tip for ventilation (tho not aproblem in a soft top....) is 
to remove the panel under the centre seat, leaving a nice big completely 
rainproof hole. Put a grill over it or all your valuables will make a bid for 
freedom in the wee small hours.....

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------
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From: "David McKain" <MCKAIN@faculty.coe.wvu.edu>
Date:          Thu, 20 Apr 1995 08:56:58 EDT
Subject:       A-lume-in-um, Al-u-minium?

>>>> As usual, the frame is rotten but he can weld aluminum so, 
>>>> who knows
>He'll have fun welding Aluminum on the frame... LR frames are steel 
>and the two metals don't mix ;-).

My statement was to indicate that he was an advanced welder, not 
thath the frame is aluminum. Only too well do I know that the frame 
on a LR is iron oxide, er, I mean steel.

David McKain
1966 SIIa Petrol
mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu
(304) 599-0120
Morgantown, WV
USA                     

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From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Removing steering dampers from 90s/110s
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 95 14:42:36 BST

I take your point about MOT shitbags,Andy,but surely the
answer is to feign ignorance.Or saw the bloody damper
mountings off and file flush.Road crap will soon hide
any signs."Steering damper?""Dont ask me,its always been
like this as far as *I* know".
Then again,I rather thought the general rule was,"If its
fitted,its got to work,if it aint it cant be examined".
Could be wrong,though.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Oil, oil, everywhere.
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 95 14:30:59 BST

Charlie,

Thoughts:

Stuck rings if it hasnt been used much for a while.

Leaky rocker box gasket.

Valve guides as you say.

Try the least expensive first!!

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Land Rovers
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 95 14:36:23 BST

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> Thought you folks might enjoy this letter.  Jeff is a local archeologist who
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Thought you folks might enjoy this letter.  Jeff is a local archeologist who
> admires Land-Rovers:
Has the advantage of brevity..........

Mike Rooth

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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 10:06:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Overseas Parts

On Thu, 20 Apr 1995 JCassidyiv@aol.com wrote:

> I know that this question has probably been posed before, but how do I go
> about ordering parts for my series truck from Britain correctly?  

	With lots of detail in the order.  Specify the Serial Number on
	the order, specify in bold, underlined text that it is a North
	American Dollar Area (NADA) left hand drive vehicle.  (important
	with some parts that you could be ordering).  SOme parts, ie
	light lenses etc are all NLA.  Expect the British style to arrive
	if you order this stuff.  Itemise everything with LR part number
	(even if they have their own numbering system, use the LR system
	too), their number, quantity and price.  Keep it simple for the
	below minimum wage (they don't have this in the UK) navvy filling
	the box.

	Expect them to screw up some of the order.  It isn't that uncommon.
	
	Parts sources:
.	Merseyside has a good track record with members of the Ottawa
	Valley club.  They replace stuff promptly, and generally seem to
	have their act together.
.	Craddocks has a real shitty record (overbilling, generally the wrong 
	part, refusal to change stuff, refund etc)
.	Paddock has been used a few times and has about a 50-50 record on
	sending the right stuff over.  (This can be important if you want
	a front frame piece with horns as one member did & they shipped
	a rhd front piece)
.	No one had dealt with DLS that I know of yet.  
.	Bearmach is good & cheap, but they generally don't like dealing
	with the great unwashed public.

	For more info, go through the old digests, TerriAnn posted a message
	on this a couple of months back.

	Rgds,

	Dixon

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From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: Removing steering dampers from 90s/110s
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 15:10:20 UNDEFINED

>I take your point about MOT shitbags,Andy,but surely the
>answer is to feign ignorance.Or saw the bloody damper
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>fitted,its got to work,if it aint it cant be examined".
>Could be wrong,though.

I took mine off, and had to put the thing back on before I coulf get an MOT. 
It seems it's not 'If its fitted', its more "If its fitted as standard 
equipment by the manufacturer".

And teh insurance problem is a killer. Insurance companies nowadays will do 
anything legal to get out of paying. A missing steering damper gives them all 
the excuse they need to invalidate your policy, regardless of fault or 
circumstance. Then the plods can do you for no insurance too if they are 
sufficiently bloody minded (I am paranoid about insurance companies and plods, 
because running a motorcycle shows you all their worst points........It's war, 
and they have all the firepower)

I HATE my steering damper. But I'd not take it off, being  little more 
beaurocratically streetwise over the years. Way tooo much risk.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------
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From: ScottFugate_Group1@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 95 9:24:56 EDT
Subject: Query: Buying a used Range Rover

This a solicitation for advice in purchasing a used Range Rover.  About three 
years ago I bought a 1970 Series IIA, which I restored, then I bought a 
Jaguar, and now I am planning to sell a perfectly dependable, 100% paid for, 
absolutely adequate Jeep Cherokee and buy another aluminum beast.  Am I sick, 
or what?  My budget is $20,000.00.  Research has revealed that I should be 
able to get a pretty good '90 or '91 for that much.  I read a submittal a 
month or so back that discussed (primarily) how to look for drivetrain 
problems on used Range Rovers.  I would appreciate additional input from the 
RR owners out there on the net on the following topics:

1) Where are likely corrosion spots?

2) Are there any special maintenance requirements at any point in a RR's life? 
 Someone recently told me that he spent $1,200.00 on a "80,000 mile service" 
for his '89.  That seems pretty excessive to me.  Thoughts?

3) How many miles can you expect to get from the V8 before a major rebuild? 
(given maintenance per owner's manual)

4) Any other special areas to look for?  I am aware that RR suspensions 
bushings need to be replaced after a few years.

5) Any merit in saving some money and buying a higher mileage example?  Would 
I be asking for problems?  I certainly don't want another restoration project, 
but I would be willing to do some repair/refurbishment if it could improve the 
old cash flow situation.  Thoughts?

I appreciate any input that you can give.

Scott Fugate
Knoxville, Tennessee	Office Voice 615-576-1397  Fax 615-576-9642
'70 IIA 88

------------------------------
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From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 09:11:41 -0500
Subject: Exhaust musings

I spent about two hours last night cutting off the iron-oxide tube that
used to be the intermediate pipe of my '66 IIa.

*Buyer Beware*: this was a two year old pipe from Atlantic British.
About six inches of the pipe had compleatly rusted through along
the seam, and the rest was going fast. Also, the nitwit (er, 
Previous Owner) had had the pipe welded into the muffler instead of
bolting them together. At least they didn't damage the flange on
the muffler so I should be able to put the new one on without problems.

I had considered stainless steel, but I learned this from Rovers North:
It seems that the only SS pipes made for Series Rovers have regular
steel flanges. So the flanges rot away leaving you with a really
nice, worthless piece of SS tubing... At least that's what they told 
me. OTOH, it was the middle of the pipe that gave away on mine, not
the end...

For now I just went with the "genuine" pipe from RN, and I'll see how 
that holds up. The header pipe will probably be next, since it was
added at the same time as the intermediate.

Got my recommended daily allowence of rust flakes, though... :-)

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@internet.mdms.com
moore graphic services
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 07:25:31 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool)
Subject: Land-Rovers, Rhinos, & Gargoyles

Fellow netters,

I tried to post a forwarded story, in the form of a letter, from Jeff
Hamilton, about a Land-Rover experience.  It did not occur to me that, if
the letter was in my posting as quoted text, the digester would eat it.  At
least, from Mike Rooth's and Dixon Kenner's cryptic retorts, this is what I
surmise occurred.  So here, reposted without the troublesome ">" symbols, is
Jeff's letter:

August 2, 1988

Gargoyles, Inc.
P.O. Box 4189
Bellvue, WA
98009

Dear Sirs (or Madams),

Enclosed you will find one pair of glasses which has had
it's right lens severed. You may find the circumstances that
surround this unfortunate accident entertaining. I purchased the
glasses in June of this year to take on a holiday in Africa. The
glasses performed flawlessly throughout my photo safaris in
Kenya. I left Kenya and traveled to Tanzania were I spent a good
deal of time taking hundreds of feet of wildlife footage. While
at the Ngorongoro Crater (the largest concentration of animals on
this planet) I was filming rhinos, I removed my Gargoyles and
placed them in the lower left pocket of my photo vest. The rhinos
became agitated and charged the Land Rover. My driver skillfully
eluded the deadly primeval beasts, but being the dedicated (and
probably a bit stupid) wildlife photographer that I am, I
instructed the driver to get in front of them again so that I
could film their charge. The driver reluctantly complied, and
brought the vehicle about on the rhinos. The wind unexpectedly
changed and the rhinos caught our scent, and suddenly 5000 lbs.
of primeval fury charged to close the fifteen meter distance. I
manned my post and continued to film with my head out the top of
the vehicle while holding on to the roof. The Land Rover roared to
life and lurched forward just as the largest rhino's horn peirced
the left side of the Land Rover and struck the lower left pocket
of my vest, thereby breaking my Gargoyles.

I doubt that your warranty covers breakage by rhinos. I do
trust that you found my escapade entertaining. I do wish to
attest to your products superlative design and function. I have
enclosed a check (ck #686) for six (6) dollars to cover shipping
and handling. Please bill me for any other charges incured in the
repair of my Gargoyles. I anxiously await their return.

Sincerely,

Jeff Hamilton
San Jose, CA

[end of quote]

Hope this makes a little more sense! 

Granville

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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 17:04:15 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Repost : How-To's and Steering Damper Fault

On Thu, 20 Apr 1995, GAWIE VAN BLERK wrote:

> Maybe just a small comment.

> How about a tools list before each how to procedure.
 
> Tools :                 1x 10mm spanner

Won't find these on our Series beasts... ;-)

> Consumables :    3 drops 3in1 oil
                             1 splitpin
 
> Procedure:
 
> 1.   Open bonnet

I think that would be fine if we were writing a Haynes manual, but you can
buy one of those yourself. The Haynes manual really is good for beginner
stuff.  I get the idea that a more useful set of 'how to' instructions
would really be 'pitfalls and tips'.  Fewer ordered instructions and more
"it doesn't really work this way.." and "I find a tea-strainer most
efficacious" seems appropriate. Then there are the sorts of things that 
don't come in manuals like which seatbelts fit a series machine and how 
to build a bed. These could have their own category: Splendid but Unapproved 
modifications or somesuch.

My thoughts...

Charlie

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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 13:27:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: FS> New/unused Range Rover 

If anyone is interrested
 I just passed the lot at P&W Volvo/ BMW
4801 Baum Blvd. Pittsburgh, Pa. 15213--Phone # 412-682-4800
On their lot is gorgeous (drool) dark green 1995 Range Rover complete
with brush bar or bull bar. I only drove past it.
I called to see what they wanted for it (asking price)  $46,900.00 (cough)
Sold for 55+ ? to A.B.Dick Corp. as a company car. Less than 5000 miles
on it, and it is immaculate.
They felt it was too much car for a company car and are going to sell it
and get another BMW for their fleet. 
I certainly don't have that kinda cash so if anyone is interrested you
could probably get it for a good bit less than the asking price.
The sales mgr said if they can't sell it they don't know what they will
do with it.
Just FYI
Jon 

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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 11:22:51 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Land Rovers

Granville B. Pool <gpool@pacific.pacific.net> writes:
>Thought you folks might enjoy this letter.  Jeff is a local archeologist who
>admires Land-Rovers:

 Granville, the letter didn't make it.

-Michael Carradine
 cs@crl.com

------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 12:17:40 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Bleedin' brakes !

Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk> writes:
>I'm curious about your switch to silicone fluid. I was told by several 
 mechanics (starting with the guy that works on my 2002 back home) that 
 silicone shouldn't be used without draining, flushing with alcohol, and 
 drying the system.  Trouble is that the remaining LMA fluid will remain 
 hygroscopic, and any droplets trapped in with the silicone could lead to 
 both spots of corrosion and vapor lock at lower temps than pure silicone 
 would provide. This made sense and seemed to make it imparative to flush 
 and replace in order to benefit from the change.

 Others have blown compressed air through the system. 
 
>What have you been told? Did you take any precautions (fresh LMA first, 
 then silicone) or just pump it in?

 Well... My brake jobs are usually percipitated by some necessity, ie
 the plastic reservoir has solarized and cracked, the system won't
 hold pressure with the pedal near the floor, pulling to one side, etc.
 In these cases, usually something is taken apart.  More than once
 did I replace the reservoir (in the '72 Land Rover and '72 Triumph)
 ensuing in the disassembly of the master brake cylinder with a repair
 kit in hand to replace all essential rubber items, etc.  Naively, I'd
 pry out the plunger to find the inside barrel pitted and corroded
 beyond recognition, the seals gummed up and disintegrating, and a
 yellow crystaline structure encaking everything (presumably the old
 LMA fluid).  So, off I'd go to order a complete new master cylinder.
 These situations don't require precautions of cleaning the system or
 fluids mixing.  The fact is that British rubbers disintegrate even
 with Girling LMA brake fluid, and your only chance is to use silicone.  

 I've been told that there is NO chemical intolerance between the two
 types of brake fluid.  Naturally, a clean system to start with would
 be ideal.  In replacing old fluid (silicone or just LMA again), I
 have pumped out almost all of the old fluid in the reservoir, and then
 started in with new silicone, using long full strokes to replace the
 amount in the chamber without too much mixing.  After that, I'm
 virtually certain that the fluid in the brake lines to the brake
 cylinders was replaced 100% by the pumping action with little mixing.
 Due to the reservoir in the brake cylinders, the fluids mixed somewhat.
 To eject the old fluid as much as possible my helper pumped the brake
 cylinders empty, this then caused the new fluid to be drawn into the
 chamber as much as possible.  I inspected the color of the escaping
 silicone in the plastic tube to the point where I was satisfied that
 the system had been flushed.  I know that on a molecular level there
 will always be remanants of the Girling fluid, but over time, as more
 things get replaced or refilled, the fluid will be all silicone.  In
 any event, it's much better for the system than all LMA.

>PS your basic bleeding instruction is a good clear account of much of 
 what I learned trying to bleed the 109. You might submit it for the 
 hypothetical 'tips' page we've all been discussing.

 I'm just a backyard tinkerer and don't profess to "know" anything, much
 less write FAQ's.  I've had to depend on my vehicles to get about, and
 being short of both time and money, didn't relish the idea of repeating
 a repair.  I think preventative maintenance is the key, with the credo
 'Do it once, and do it right'.  To that end, as with all simple concepts,
 the explanations get too involved.  I'm almost embarrassed to write so
 much about very little; but then, the details become the pitfalls.

-Michael (Your Mileage May Vary) Carradine
 cs@crl.com

 Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 95 14:57:03 EST
From: "Lapa, Hank" <hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com>
Subject: Re[2]: some questions

     Stefan,
     
     That's just what I was going to say.   ;-)
     
     Hank "Doesn't-everyone-speak-Amurikun?" Lapa
     
             * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Stefan Jacobs wrote:
Date: 20 Apr 95 05:55:04 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 
Precedence:     bulk
Errors-To: LRO-Owner@uk.stratus.com
X-To: lro <lro@team.net>
Subject: Re: some questions
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
     
Peter Kutschera wrote:
     
> Endlich mal wer aus der "Naehe"!
I suppose others on the list are too, er, polite to point this out to you, 
so I'll take it upon myself. First, welcome to the list! But please bear in 
mind that...
 das hier eine internationale Internet-mailing list ist, wo englisch quasi 
 "Amtssprache" ist.  Wir haben hier Leute aus den Niederlanden, Daenemark, 
 Norwegen, Island... stell Dir vor, jeder breitet sich in seiner Landessprache 
 aus.  Auch wenn es schwerfaellt, messages die fuer die *ganze* Liste gedacht 
 sind bitte nur auf englisch, alles andere grundsaetzlich nur als private e- 
 mail.  Vergiss nicht, dass alles was Du an die Liste schickst jedesmal von 
 ueber 350 Leuten gelesen wird bzw. gelesen werden muss.  Wie gesagt, Du bist 
 hier nicht der einzige, der englisch radebrecht, also nur zu.  Ausserdem 
 lernst Du es auf diese Weise.
     
Servus,
     
Stefan - auch aus der Naehe (relativ)

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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 14:45:14 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Removing steering dampers from 90s/110s

>/I suppose I should have removed the steering damper for on-road use 
 /even if it does wonders for my pectorals :-)  

 From your earlier post about turning your steering wheel 90 degrees to
 start your turn, and the damper later breaking, the thing definetly
 wasn't working properly.  Now you'll get to buy a new one and see how
 they're supposed to work.
 
>They steer like sportscars without teh steering damper - very light steering 
 no imprecision. And most importantl;y, emergency stops are FAR safer cos the 
 .... lots of good information that I disagree with deleted.....
>So, ironically, although removing the damper immeasurably improves tthe 
 on-road handling adn safety, the beaurocrats will shit all over you if you
do it.

 The steering might be lighter and more sensitive without a damper.  May I
 suggest however that the rest of the steering system to some degree will
 now absorb some of the steering shock and in time will be worse off for
 the wear.  The purpose of the damper is to smooth out the handling, all
 spurious minor shocks will be eliminated and major movement will be
 translated to the steering wheel --on road and off highway.

 I would put on a new shock of good quality and check the movement from
 wheelstop to wheelstop.  After almost 16 years with the original shock
 (it had crapped out totally, I essentially had no shock!), my '72 Series
 III 88" would start to shimmy at speeds over 50 mph.  The tires were
 aligned as much as possible --for a truck, but the shimmying started an
 oscillation that forced me to coast to a speed of 45 or less to get the
 Rover back in control.  With a new Rancho 5000 however, all my steering
 problems went away.  At slow speeds steering was no more difficult than
 before as the steering effort from the cab is geared and leveraged to
 overcome the shock resistance easily.  I was suprised though, in
 comparing the new Rancho 5000 steering damper to the four new shock
 absorbers, it was much more difficult to manually move the damper than
 the shocks.  In off-highway driving you don't want to punish your steering
 relay system with every bump and grind in the road.  Let your tires kick
 butt against the rocks and dirt --the damper lets you place the tires in
 the direction YOU want to, not letting them be redirected by the roadway.
 On-highway, same thing, smooth _control_ is more important at high speed.

 Michael Carradine    Carradine Studios                   Tel.510-254-3324
 Architect            Architecture Development Planning   Pgr.510-945-5000
 NCARB RIBA           PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA           cs@crl.com

 Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 14:54:23 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

 Donald Abbot <donald@spl.co.za> writes:
>Thus many of the photo's include the 
 Landie with the bonnet up. This, we discovered later, is standard. Not 
 that they have engine problems, but LROs always seem to be surprised 
 that the engine is still there! :-) 

 Ha,HA, Ha.  He, he ,he!!
 (Very funny za humor!)

-Michael
 cs@crl.com
 Michael Carradine    Carradine Studios                   Tel.510-254-3324
 Architect            Architecture Development Planning   Pgr.510-945-5000
 NCARB RIBA           PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA           cs@crl.com

 Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------
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