[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Craig Murray [craigp@ocs | 21 | Re: pleading ignorance |
2 | jhoward@argus.lowell.edu | 15 | Rochester carb & WARN hubs |
3 | "Paul Nash [paul@frcs.al | 20 | [not specified] |
4 | ac443@osfn.rhilinet.gov | 26 | Mirrors & Beds |
5 | ac443@osfn.rhilinet.gov | 29 | Brockhouse trailer |
6 | Lloyd Allison [lloyd@cs. | 40 | home pages |
7 | David John Place [umplac | 13 | Re: Brockhouse trailer |
8 | FMOTLEY@aol.com | 18 | Re: #2(2) The Land Rover Owne... |
9 | "R. Pierce Reid, OH" [70 | 16 | Infection |
10 | "R. Pierce Reid, OH" [70 | 18 | Translation |
11 | "R. Pierce Reid, OH" [70 | 33 | D90 Awesome -- Thanks LRNA! |
12 | JCassidyiv@aol.com | 13 | Overseas Parts |
13 | gpool@pacific.pacific.ne | 53 | Land Rovers |
14 | Charlie Wright [cw117@mo | 37 | Oil, oil, everywhere. |
15 | "Stefan R. Jacob" [10004 | 26 | Re: some questions |
16 | lwte@ngi.no (Lloyd Tunbr | 23 | Bleeding clutches |
17 | azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo | 34 | Removing steering dampers from 90s/110s |
18 | Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu | 25 | Re: Attn: Oily Wad Club members!!! |
19 | azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo | 23 | Re:Mirrors and Beds |
20 | Franz.Parzefall@Physik.T | 37 | Re: Repost : How-To's and Steering Damper Fault |
21 | "GAWIE VAN BLERK" [A4846 | 42 | Re: Repost : How-To's and Steering Damper Fault |
22 | Donald Abbot [donald@spl | 26 | Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
23 | azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo | 25 | Re: Mirrors and Beds |
24 | "David McKain" [MCKAIN@f | 21 | A-lume-in-um, Al-u-minium? |
25 | Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu | 16 | Re: Removing steering dampers from 90s/110s |
26 | Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu | 20 | Re: Oil, oil, everywhere. |
27 | Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu | 14 | Re: Land Rovers |
28 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 43 | Re: Overseas Parts |
29 | azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo | 30 | Re: Removing steering dampers from 90s/110s |
30 | ScottFugate_Group1@ctdvn | 38 | Query: Buying a used Range Rover |
31 | harincar@internet.mdms.c | 35 | Exhaust musings |
32 | gpool@pacific.pacific.ne | 64 | Land-Rovers, Rhinos, & Gargoyles |
33 | Charlie Wright [cw117@mo | 35 | Re: Repost : How-To's and Steering Damper Fault |
34 | Jon Humphrey [jh5r+@andr | 21 | FS> New/unused Range Rover |
35 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 13 | Re: Land Rovers |
36 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 69 | Re: Bleedin' brakes ! |
37 | "Lapa, Hank" [hlapa@Zeus | 42 | Re[2]: some questions |
38 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 50 | Re: Removing steering dampers from 90s/110s |
39 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 21 | Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au> Subject: Re: pleading ignorance Date: Thu, 20 Apr 95 9:00:17 EST > Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com> writes: [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)] > -Michael Carradine > cs@crl.com Actually it is Turbo Direct Injection. -- ============================================================================== Craig Murray | 1955 Series 1 86" LROC of Victoria Australia | 2.25 diesel LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia | My car is constipated, email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au | It has not passed a | thing all day!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 95 17:00 MST From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Subject: Rochester carb & WARN hubs Many thanks to all you all who responded to my inquiry about WARN hubs. One of you gave me WARN's phone number, so I called them, and they faxed me the drawings and installation instructions. My next query is, how do you, or can you, adjust the mixture on a Rochester carb? At Flagstaff's 7000 foot (2200 m) elevation, it is running way too rich. James jhoward@argus.lowell.edu ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: Tdi From: "Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>"@tantrum.frcs.alt.za Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 11:02:36 +1000 > > What is the Tdi and is it any different than the "stock" D90??? > Turbo Diesel (Fuel) Injection. Not available in the US. Actually "Turbo (diesel) _direct_ injection". This is to differentiate it from the earlier 2.5 turbo diesel, which had indirect injection (into a pre-combustion chamber, a'la the 2.25 diesel). The Tdi is allegedly far more responsive and reliable. It'd be hard to be less responsive that a 2.25 diesel (although mine went _much_ better after a rebore, new head, new injection pump, &c -- it could break the 30km/hr barrier, and get all the way up to 94!). It'd also be hard to be less reliable than the 2.5 turbo diesel -- they have a reputation in SA for neading new heads every 30,000km or so (if driven gently -- the military ones were mothballed 'cos with military drivers they needed new heads before they were properly run-in) ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 21:15:40 -0400 From: ac443@osfn.rhilinet.gov (John Karlsson) Subject: Mirrors & Beds I used to have a bed in my 88" SW. Very simple. Two 1/4" bolts on each side fastened through the body capping (using existing holes, rear seats removed) supported a piece of 3/4" plywood cut to fit flush with the top of the box. Another piece of plywood to cover front seat area except for steering wheel rested on the dash in front, but after almost 20 years, I can't remember what supported it at the rear, although it was a regular part of the Land Rover. Only parts required: four 1/4" x 1" bolts, four nuts, two pieces of plywood cut to fit. Sleeps two comfortably, even if not well acquainted. John Karlsson Hope Valley, RI ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 21:17:07 -0400 From: ac443@osfn.rhilinet.gov (John Karlsson) Subject: Brockhouse trailer I have a 1965 Brockhouse trailer, Type KS 1456, Ser # BT8 16633. Can anyone supply a list of part numbers for brakes, wheel bearings, etc.? I have always assumed that it uses 109 parts, but I really don't know. It doesn't need immediate attention, but since I intend to keep it forever.... Also, I'm in need of a good, weatherproof, bulletproof wiring connector for it. The original was a rubber unit that was reasonably rugged, but it died years ago. Maybe somone interested in military equipment can offer a suggestion. Thanks. John Karlsson Hope Valley, RI ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 11:28:51 +1000 From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au> Subject: home pages I have the following collection of home pages that feature LRs in some way. If anyone wants me to add or modify a link, just say. The collection's URL is http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/Net/Home.Pages.html <UL> <LI> <A HREF="http://www.senie.com/billc/">Bill Caloccia</A> gifs [3/'95]. <LI> <A HREF="http://128.220.90.135/hometest.html">Harry Greenspun</A> Disco jpg [3/95]. <LI> <A HREF="http://evo.net/bridgecam.html">Camera</A> is connected to a camera we set overlooking a place where we park adjacent to my building. My S3 is presently in prime camera position. The image is updated every 4 minutes (and looks black at night).<BR> -jory jory@mit.edu (jory bell) [3/95]. <LI> <A HREF="http://eve.adam.com.au/~lhowie/">Leith Howie</A> [2/95]. <LI> <A HREF="ftp://gate1.srp.gov/pub">David Brown ftp</A> Disco gif [2/95]. <LI> <A HREF="http://www.netpress.com/jimmyp/">Jimmy Patrick</A> gifs [2/95]. <LI> <A HREF="http://mercury.cair.du.edu/~tomills/">T.F.Mills</A> [2/95]. <LI> <A HREF="http://stein3.u.washington.edu:6000/">Joel Reiter</A> features the Rover factory tour [2/95]. <LI> <A HREF="http://www.tvnorge.no/~ketil/ketil.html">Ketil Kirkerud</A> has a <A HREF="http://www.tvnorge.no/~ketil/lr/index.html">L-R page</A> (gif) [1/95] <LI> <A HREF="http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/bil/index.html">Terje Krogdahl</A> (gif) [1/95] <LI> <A HREF="http://nickel.ucs.indiana.edu/~mliggett/">Matt Liggett</A> gif [12/94] <LI> <A HREF="http://cpsv01.lancs.ac.uk/iss/tsg/cpags.htm">Gavin Silver</A> gif [12/94] </UL> Lloyd Dept. of Computer Science, Monash University, Clayton, Victoria 3168, AUSTRALIA tel: 61 3 905 5205 fax: 61 3 905 5146 email: lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au <A HREF="http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/">Land-Rover</A> ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 21:42:58 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Subject: Re: Brockhouse trailer I found that putting the wire in a good new piece of rubber not plastic garden hose with RTV or silicone in the end and good fittings worked just as well as any expensive commercial line. If you really want to get fancy, use heater hose with the cloth impregnated core. I bought a full box roll for about $15 for something like 20 feet. Attach it to the frame with clips for co-axial cable or rubber covered conduit clips etc. and you have a professional job. I put my ham radio rotator and co-ax in this type of setup and it lasts for years. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: FMOTLEY@aol.com Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 23:04:20 -0400 Subject: Re: #2(2) The Land Rover Owne... Hi all! Just a quick note to let everyone know that if you look carefully in the new movie "Bad Boys," you will see a decent looking Series III 88" Pick-up truck! It's only a mere second glance, but I know you will all see it!! It's good to know that our "Landies" are doing well in Hollywood. Semper Roving, Frank Motley '71 Series IIA 88" '90 Range Rover County ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 19 Apr 95 23:55:32 EDT From: "R. Pierce Reid, OH" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: Infection David McCain writes: >> As usual, the frame is rotten but he can weld aluminum so, >> who knows He'll have fun welding Aluminum on the frame... LR frames are steel and the two metals don't mix ;-). Cheers, R. P. Reid ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 20 Apr 95 00:01:11 EDT From: "R. Pierce Reid, OH" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: Translation Peter Writes: >> Is there a Englich-German dictionary for Landrovers available in the >> net? Not that I am aware of on the 'Net but CompuServe has a machine ranslation forum where you can get your messages translated German --> English or vice versa... also to French and Spanish. Guten Tag, GeerBochs Von AxleHausen aka R. P. Reid ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 20 Apr 95 00:11:51 EDT From: "R. Pierce Reid, OH" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: D90 Awesome -- Thanks LRNA! Well, I picked up my D90 this afternoon. Coniston Green, '94 model with all options, used with 800 miles on it. A bargain to boot. It is one of the most impressive vehicles I have driven. It has the solidity of a Mack Truck (and the driing position) and truly commands the road. Power is amazing... First time I put it in gear I put it in 3rd by mistake. Did not matter, it just drove off. Road manners are impeccable. Cruises at 70 with no problems. Best of all, it is unquestionably a Land Rover. It's noisy, the top rattles, the tire noise drowns out all conversation and you can hear the v8 growl when you give it some gas. It even has an electrical quirk whereby the trailer indicator flashes (just once) whenever you use the turn signals. All these features that no Land Rover enthusiast can live without and that no non-enthusiast can live with (thus the readily available supply of used D90's with a couple of thousand miles on them). Land Rover North America, if you're listening... THANK YOU -- you got everything right with this one! Cheers, R. Pierce Reid '94 D90 (yet unnamed -- any suggestions?) '62 IIa Military "The Sgt. Major" '58 S I Fire Engine (restoration project) ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JCassidyiv@aol.com Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 00:50:58 -0400 Subject: Overseas Parts I know that this question has probably been posed before, but how do I go about ordering parts for my series truck from Britain correctly? Are there any pitfalls that I should avoid? Which companies are most reputable? All I have right now is a Paddock catalog. Sorry if this is old discussion for everyone, but it seems that some parts cost much less overseas. Thanks for the info. J. Cassidy ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 22:24:01 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Land Rovers Thought you folks might enjoy this letter. Jeff is a local archeologist who admires Land-Rovers: [start forwarded message] August 2, 1988 Gargoyles, Inc. P.O. Box 4189 Bellvue, WA 98009 Dear Sirs (or Madams), Enclosed you will find one pair of glasses which has had it's right lens severed. You may find the circumstances that surround this unfortunate accident entertaining. I purchased the glasses in June of this year to take on a holiday in Africa. The glasses performed flawlessly throughout my photo safaris in Kenya. I left Kenya and traveled to Tanzania were I spent a good deal of time taking hundreds of feet of wildlife footage. While at the Ngorongoro Crater (the largest concentration of animals on this planet) I was filming rhinos, I removed my Gargoyles and placed them in the lower left pocket of my photo vest. The rhinos became agitated and charged the Land Rover. My driver skillfully eluded the deadly primeval beasts, but being the dedicated (and probably a bit stupid) wildlife photographer that I am, I instructed the driver to get in front of them again so that I could film their charge. The driver reluctantly complied, and brought the vehicle about on the rhinos. The wind unexpectedly changed and the rhinos caught our scent, and suddenly 5000 lbs. of primeval fury charged to close the fifteen meter distance. I manned my post and continued to film with my head out the top of the vehicle while holding on to the roof. The Land Rover roared to life and lurched forward just as the largest rhino's horn peirced the left side of the Land Rover and struck the lower left pocket of my vest, thereby breaking my Gargoyles. I doubt that your warranty covers breakage by rhinos. I do trust that you found my escapade entertaining. I do wish to attest to your products superlative design and function. I have enclosed a check (ck #686) for six (6) dollars to cover shipping and handling. Please bill me for any other charges incured in the repair of my Gargoyles. I anxiously await their return. Sincerely, Jeff Hamilton [end forwarded message] ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 12:02:57 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk> Subject: Oil, oil, everywhere. I have a general diagnostic for open-breather diesels (early 2.25). I've run my newer 2.25 since re-build with very little oil leakage (the usual out the bottom), but I just bought a '66 109 diesel with the older breather system. I drove it back to Cambridge from Surrey at a steady 50, and it pulled like a train (compared to my rebuild). A much nicer motor to drive, but I stopped half way home to check fluids, etc, and the heretofore clean engine bay was oil-soaked! I think (judging by the splash pattern) that it's coming out of the rocker-cover breather and being blown by the fan all over the rear engine compartment. It covers the underside of the bonnet from about the breather to the bulkhead, and most parts inbetween. Nothing shall rust. Oil level hasn't fallen dramatically, but it is down from the start of the trip. The motor hadn't made a trip like this in a while, so it was a new problem to both me and the previous owner? Could this be a blocked breather? Other ideas? Pressure leaking past the valves into the rocker cover (ouch)? I was thinking of switching to a closed breather system, but I expect that might just lead to burning the oil instead of spreading it? Thoughts? Cheers, Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 20 Apr 95 05:55:04 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: some questions Peter Kutschera wrote: > Endlich mal wer aus der "Naehe"! I suppose others on the list are too, er, polite to point this out to you, so I'll take it upon myself. First, welcome to the list! But please bear in mind that... das hier eine internationale Internet-mailing list ist, wo englisch quasi "Amtssprache" ist. Wir haben hier Leute aus den Niederlanden, Daenemark, Norwegen, Island... stell Dir vor, jeder breitet sich in seiner Landessprache aus. Auch wenn es schwerfaellt, messages die fuer die *ganze* Liste gedacht sind bitte nur auf englisch, alles andere grundsaetzlich nur als private e- mail. Vergiss nicht, dass alles was Du an die Liste schickst jedesmal von ueber 350 Leuten gelesen wird bzw. gelesen werden muss. Wie gesagt, Du bist hier nicht der einzige, der englisch radebrecht, also nur zu. Ausserdem lernst Du es auf diese Weise. Servus, Stefan - auch aus der Naehe (relativ) <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com> ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 10:38:53 +0200 From: lwte@ngi.no (Lloyd Tunbridge) Subject: Bleeding clutches I've been reading with interest the recent articles on bleeding brakes. Now bleeding brakes has never given me much of a headache - I can do that with only a litre or two of fluid - but bleeding the hydraulic clutch!!!!!!! I came up with one wheeze - a simple homemade pressure bleeder which might help with brakes too (haven't tried it there yet). Take an old hydraulic fluid reservoir cap (the brake and clutch reservoirs are the same on my series IIA) , remove the loose bit inside and drill a hole so that you can fir a tubeless tyre valve in it. Fit it to your reservoir and pump up a little pressure with your tyre pump (don't know what the limit is but mine held with 2 bar). Loosen the bleed valves - hey presto!! Might require some light pumping on the pedal too. Any other tips on bleeding clutches would be welcome. --- Lloyd Tunbridge 1970 Series IIA 109" Safari currently standing without clutch and brakes! ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Removing steering dampers from 90s/110s Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 10:10:00 UNDEFINED /I suppose I should have removed the steering damper for on-road use /even if it does wonders for my pectorals :-) They steer like sportscars without teh steering damper - very light steering - no imprecision. And most importantl;y, emergency stops are FAR safer cos the steering automatically centres like a real car. Wit teh damper, it doeesnt quite centre and full bore braking is seriously dangerous witht he thing snaking all over the place as you try to stop it getting away and rolling. Slides are also far easier to catch and control wihtout the damper cos you have instant response with teh steering, instead of the bloody damper refusing to react ot sudden inputs. There are problems tho. Firstly, the steerinr will oscillate badly going over potholes with the inside front wheel under hard cornering (we're talking dumping Golf GiTs here.....), but this is not a big deal and all undamped vehicles with large wradius wheels tend to do it. The REAL problems are that you'll fail your MOT if all the factory fitted bits arent there. And MOST important, if you have an accident, the insurance company will refuse to pay out on a modified but unnotified vehicle. So you could be left having to sell oyur house etc. So, ironically, although removing the damper immeasurably improves tthe on-road handling adn safety, the beaurocrats will shit all over you if you do it. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway +++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Attn: Oily Wad Club members!!! Date: Thu, 20 Apr 95 9:23:41 BST Craig, Sounds like a load of Kangaroo Krap to me.Last time I went to get a 'stat,the guy said he wouldnt sell me a "hot" one,because you dont want to overheat diesels,do you?No sir,says I. I dont know what temp mine runs at,I only know the needle sits in the miggle of the dial when at normal running temp.And the bastard *still* smokes.But,I cant get any *black* smoke.What, I ask fellow Oily Wadders,am I doing wrong?Going uphill,I WANT MY BLACK SMOKE!! I think I shall swallow my pride and buy a tin of liquid engineering and stick the contents in the fuel tank.According to the write ups this should cut down,or eliminate,the boring grey smoke,and give me back my nice black stuff.And if you believe that,you'll believe *anything*.The only question now is what make of super-stick-it- the-tank-and-all-your-problems-will-be-little-ones shall I buy? Wonder if it will run on Light Ale? Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Re:Mirrors and Beds Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 08:52:02 UNDEFINED /What annoys me is the fact that I was trying to do something similar only I /failed because I was thinking hammock, not bunk. After several failed /riggings, and returning/exchanging 3 hammocks, I gave up, bit the bullet, /and bought the tent. Oh well, I couldn't have checked the Rover as carry /on luggage when I flew to New Orleans for Mardi Gras... I have used a hammmock strung diagonally in my hardtop 90. Unfortunately this wouldnt work in a softop. But theere aree 2 options. Either replace the corner guttter bolts adn windscreen bolts with climbing boltt-hangers and clip your hammock into these. Or thread the hammock ropes out of teh corners of teh lorry adn tie em in the centre of teh roof so the hammock forms a big loop supported by the roof. The latter is more mechanicalllly robust, but more susceptible to rednecks. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway +++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE Subject: Re: Repost : How-To's and Steering Damper Fault Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 09:22:48 +0200 (MET DST) Hi all, I definitly like that how-to idea. > Specific information on 'how to' do a particular job would be great, > particularly if any info. includes those little tips you only learn [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > engine/steering wheel/rear axle' but more often the problems are > in diagnosis of a fault or people requiring general guidance. Seems like a good idea. Why rewriting an existing book. > How about a short how to list aimed at those first-time buyers (Taylor? Ever?) > who get their new second/third/fourth hand baby home and then drive it around > for 2K miles and don't really know what to check up on. Simple things you > need to keep checking before your first catastrophe or major overhaul > forces you to learn them! That would be GREAT! That's exactly what I will need when I've finaly managed to get my LR. > Made it round the corner but can anyone suggest a good detergent for > stained trousers? Try 0.5l of petrol and a burning candle ;-) and: Peter Perhaps we could try to do that dictonary together, for I've got the same problem as you. Maybe there is someone else who wants to help. --------------------------------------------------------------- Franz Parzefall fparzefa@physik.tu-muenchen.de --------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "GAWIE VAN BLERK" <A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za> Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 08:28:44 GMT+200 Subject: Re: Repost : How-To's and Steering Damper Fault Hi All I could not reach any of the Rover sites on the web after 100's of tries. Would really appreciate a how to section in the FAQ. Maybe just a small comment. How about a tools list before each how to procedure. For example. HOW TO REPLACE WIDGET ON STEERING Tools : 1x 10mm spanner 1x Med Screwdriver 1x Long nosed pliers Consumables : 3 drops 3in1 oil 1 splitpin Procedure: 1. Open bonnet 2. Locate Steering widget to left back of oil filter 3. etc. etc Just an Idea Greetings Gawie van Blerk --------------------------------------------------------------- Internet : A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za (work) : gawie@pixie.co.za (home) URL : http://www.pix.za/0/business/bloemfontein/gawie.html Tel : 27+51+404-2421 --------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 09:58:15 +0200 (GMT+0200) From: Donald Abbot <donald@spl.co.za> Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest Gawie replied: > Let me know when next you are coming down to Lesotho. Would like to > try it out in winter. With snow and all that you know. Was thinking > of going in at Butha Butha round Oxbow, Mokotlong, down and up Sani > Pass and back to Maseru via Thaba Tseka. That sounds like a good idea. I have made two trips to Lesotho by Land Rover. The first was when we bought the SIII. It already had the engine conversion and we wanted to test it over a rugged road. We did the trip as you descibed it but leaving Lesotho by going down the Sani Pass. About half way across Lesotho, one engine stradle broke! The alternator prevented the engine from falling right out. Not carrying a spare (yes, we were naive, having only just bought the Land Rover), we tired it up using three spanners and a length of nylon rope. Every ten k's or so, we stopped to check and/or retie. Thus many of the photo's include the Landie with the bonnet up. This, we discovered later, is standard. Not that they have engine problems, but LROs always seem to be surprised that the engine is still there! :-) Donald ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Re: Mirrors and Beds Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 08:47:03 UNDEFINED /As for the beds bit. Has anyone come up with a good scheme for two people /sleeping in a SWB? Specifically a soft top with tailgate and preferably in /somesort of weatherproof fashion. We are not the tallest of people (5'5" or /175cmwhichever you prefer) but even so the back is a bit cramped. I spent 3months last winter sleeping in my 90 in the hills. Very comfy. Only gave it up cos of pestering by paranoid farmers convinced I was rustling their sheep. I am 5'10". I used a sunlounger placed along the wheelbox, over the load bulkhead, into the front (with teh seat backs folded down). You could easily do the same on both sides. A good tip for ventilation (tho not aproblem in a soft top....) is to remove the panel under the centre seat, leaving a nice big completely rainproof hole. Put a grill over it or all your valuables will make a bid for freedom in the wee small hours..... +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway +++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David McKain" <MCKAIN@faculty.coe.wvu.edu> Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 08:56:58 EDT Subject: A-lume-in-um, Al-u-minium? >>>> As usual, the frame is rotten but he can weld aluminum so, >>>> who knows >He'll have fun welding Aluminum on the frame... LR frames are steel >and the two metals don't mix ;-). My statement was to indicate that he was an advanced welder, not thath the frame is aluminum. Only too well do I know that the frame on a LR is iron oxide, er, I mean steel. David McKain 1966 SIIa Petrol mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu (304) 599-0120 Morgantown, WV USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Removing steering dampers from 90s/110s Date: Thu, 20 Apr 95 14:42:36 BST I take your point about MOT shitbags,Andy,but surely the answer is to feign ignorance.Or saw the bloody damper mountings off and file flush.Road crap will soon hide any signs."Steering damper?""Dont ask me,its always been like this as far as *I* know". Then again,I rather thought the general rule was,"If its fitted,its got to work,if it aint it cant be examined". Could be wrong,though. Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Oil, oil, everywhere. Date: Thu, 20 Apr 95 14:30:59 BST Charlie, Thoughts: Stuck rings if it hasnt been used much for a while. Leaky rocker box gasket. Valve guides as you say. Try the least expensive first!! Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Land Rovers Date: Thu, 20 Apr 95 14:36:23 BST > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net > Thought you folks might enjoy this letter. Jeff is a local archeologist who [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > Thought you folks might enjoy this letter. Jeff is a local archeologist who > admires Land-Rovers: Has the advantage of brevity.......... Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 10:06:40 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> Subject: Re: Overseas Parts On Thu, 20 Apr 1995 JCassidyiv@aol.com wrote: > I know that this question has probably been posed before, but how do I go > about ordering parts for my series truck from Britain correctly? With lots of detail in the order. Specify the Serial Number on the order, specify in bold, underlined text that it is a North American Dollar Area (NADA) left hand drive vehicle. (important with some parts that you could be ordering). SOme parts, ie light lenses etc are all NLA. Expect the British style to arrive if you order this stuff. Itemise everything with LR part number (even if they have their own numbering system, use the LR system too), their number, quantity and price. Keep it simple for the below minimum wage (they don't have this in the UK) navvy filling the box. Expect them to screw up some of the order. It isn't that uncommon. Parts sources: . Merseyside has a good track record with members of the Ottawa Valley club. They replace stuff promptly, and generally seem to have their act together. . Craddocks has a real shitty record (overbilling, generally the wrong part, refusal to change stuff, refund etc) . Paddock has been used a few times and has about a 50-50 record on sending the right stuff over. (This can be important if you want a front frame piece with horns as one member did & they shipped a rhd front piece) . No one had dealt with DLS that I know of yet. . Bearmach is good & cheap, but they generally don't like dealing with the great unwashed public. For more info, go through the old digests, TerriAnn posted a message on this a couple of months back. Rgds, Dixon ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Re: Removing steering dampers from 90s/110s Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 15:10:20 UNDEFINED >I take your point about MOT shitbags,Andy,but surely the >answer is to feign ignorance.Or saw the bloody damper [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] >fitted,its got to work,if it aint it cant be examined". >Could be wrong,though. I took mine off, and had to put the thing back on before I coulf get an MOT. It seems it's not 'If its fitted', its more "If its fitted as standard equipment by the manufacturer". And teh insurance problem is a killer. Insurance companies nowadays will do anything legal to get out of paying. A missing steering damper gives them all the excuse they need to invalidate your policy, regardless of fault or circumstance. Then the plods can do you for no insurance too if they are sufficiently bloody minded (I am paranoid about insurance companies and plods, because running a motorcycle shows you all their worst points........It's war, and they have all the firepower) I HATE my steering damper. But I'd not take it off, being little more beaurocratically streetwise over the years. Way tooo much risk. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway +++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ScottFugate_Group1@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Date: Thu, 20 Apr 95 9:24:56 EDT Subject: Query: Buying a used Range Rover This a solicitation for advice in purchasing a used Range Rover. About three years ago I bought a 1970 Series IIA, which I restored, then I bought a Jaguar, and now I am planning to sell a perfectly dependable, 100% paid for, absolutely adequate Jeep Cherokee and buy another aluminum beast. Am I sick, or what? My budget is $20,000.00. Research has revealed that I should be able to get a pretty good '90 or '91 for that much. I read a submittal a month or so back that discussed (primarily) how to look for drivetrain problems on used Range Rovers. I would appreciate additional input from the RR owners out there on the net on the following topics: 1) Where are likely corrosion spots? 2) Are there any special maintenance requirements at any point in a RR's life? Someone recently told me that he spent $1,200.00 on a "80,000 mile service" for his '89. That seems pretty excessive to me. Thoughts? 3) How many miles can you expect to get from the V8 before a major rebuild? (given maintenance per owner's manual) 4) Any other special areas to look for? I am aware that RR suspensions bushings need to be replaced after a few years. 5) Any merit in saving some money and buying a higher mileage example? Would I be asking for problems? I certainly don't want another restoration project, but I would be willing to do some repair/refurbishment if it could improve the old cash flow situation. Thoughts? I appreciate any input that you can give. Scott Fugate Knoxville, Tennessee Office Voice 615-576-1397 Fax 615-576-9642 '70 IIA 88 ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 09:11:41 -0500 Subject: Exhaust musings I spent about two hours last night cutting off the iron-oxide tube that used to be the intermediate pipe of my '66 IIa. *Buyer Beware*: this was a two year old pipe from Atlantic British. About six inches of the pipe had compleatly rusted through along the seam, and the rest was going fast. Also, the nitwit (er, Previous Owner) had had the pipe welded into the muffler instead of bolting them together. At least they didn't damage the flange on the muffler so I should be able to put the new one on without problems. I had considered stainless steel, but I learned this from Rovers North: It seems that the only SS pipes made for Series Rovers have regular steel flanges. So the flanges rot away leaving you with a really nice, worthless piece of SS tubing... At least that's what they told me. OTOH, it was the middle of the pipe that gave away on mine, not the end... For now I just went with the "genuine" pipe from RN, and I'll see how that holds up. The header pipe will probably be next, since it was added at the same time as the intermediate. Got my recommended daily allowence of rust flakes, though... :-) Tim --- tim harincar harincar@internet.mdms.com moore graphic services '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 07:25:31 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Land-Rovers, Rhinos, & Gargoyles Fellow netters, I tried to post a forwarded story, in the form of a letter, from Jeff Hamilton, about a Land-Rover experience. It did not occur to me that, if the letter was in my posting as quoted text, the digester would eat it. At least, from Mike Rooth's and Dixon Kenner's cryptic retorts, this is what I surmise occurred. So here, reposted without the troublesome ">" symbols, is Jeff's letter: August 2, 1988 Gargoyles, Inc. P.O. Box 4189 Bellvue, WA 98009 Dear Sirs (or Madams), Enclosed you will find one pair of glasses which has had it's right lens severed. You may find the circumstances that surround this unfortunate accident entertaining. I purchased the glasses in June of this year to take on a holiday in Africa. The glasses performed flawlessly throughout my photo safaris in Kenya. I left Kenya and traveled to Tanzania were I spent a good deal of time taking hundreds of feet of wildlife footage. While at the Ngorongoro Crater (the largest concentration of animals on this planet) I was filming rhinos, I removed my Gargoyles and placed them in the lower left pocket of my photo vest. The rhinos became agitated and charged the Land Rover. My driver skillfully eluded the deadly primeval beasts, but being the dedicated (and probably a bit stupid) wildlife photographer that I am, I instructed the driver to get in front of them again so that I could film their charge. The driver reluctantly complied, and brought the vehicle about on the rhinos. The wind unexpectedly changed and the rhinos caught our scent, and suddenly 5000 lbs. of primeval fury charged to close the fifteen meter distance. I manned my post and continued to film with my head out the top of the vehicle while holding on to the roof. The Land Rover roared to life and lurched forward just as the largest rhino's horn peirced the left side of the Land Rover and struck the lower left pocket of my vest, thereby breaking my Gargoyles. I doubt that your warranty covers breakage by rhinos. I do trust that you found my escapade entertaining. I do wish to attest to your products superlative design and function. I have enclosed a check (ck #686) for six (6) dollars to cover shipping and handling. Please bill me for any other charges incured in the repair of my Gargoyles. I anxiously await their return. Sincerely, Jeff Hamilton San Jose, CA [end of quote] Hope this makes a little more sense! Granville ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 17:04:15 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Repost : How-To's and Steering Damper Fault On Thu, 20 Apr 1995, GAWIE VAN BLERK wrote: > Maybe just a small comment. > How about a tools list before each how to procedure. > Tools : 1x 10mm spanner Won't find these on our Series beasts... ;-) > Consumables : 3 drops 3in1 oil 1 splitpin > Procedure: > 1. Open bonnet I think that would be fine if we were writing a Haynes manual, but you can buy one of those yourself. The Haynes manual really is good for beginner stuff. I get the idea that a more useful set of 'how to' instructions would really be 'pitfalls and tips'. Fewer ordered instructions and more "it doesn't really work this way.." and "I find a tea-strainer most efficacious" seems appropriate. Then there are the sorts of things that don't come in manuals like which seatbelts fit a series machine and how to build a bed. These could have their own category: Splendid but Unapproved modifications or somesuch. My thoughts... Charlie ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 13:27:23 -0400 (EDT) From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: FS> New/unused Range Rover If anyone is interrested I just passed the lot at P&W Volvo/ BMW 4801 Baum Blvd. Pittsburgh, Pa. 15213--Phone # 412-682-4800 On their lot is gorgeous (drool) dark green 1995 Range Rover complete with brush bar or bull bar. I only drove past it. I called to see what they wanted for it (asking price) $46,900.00 (cough) Sold for 55+ ? to A.B.Dick Corp. as a company car. Less than 5000 miles on it, and it is immaculate. They felt it was too much car for a company car and are going to sell it and get another BMW for their fleet. I certainly don't have that kinda cash so if anyone is interrested you could probably get it for a good bit less than the asking price. The sales mgr said if they can't sell it they don't know what they will do with it. Just FYI Jon ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 11:22:51 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Land Rovers Granville B. Pool <gpool@pacific.pacific.net> writes: >Thought you folks might enjoy this letter. Jeff is a local archeologist who >admires Land-Rovers: Granville, the letter didn't make it. -Michael Carradine cs@crl.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 12:17:40 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Bleedin' brakes ! Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk> writes: >I'm curious about your switch to silicone fluid. I was told by several mechanics (starting with the guy that works on my 2002 back home) that silicone shouldn't be used without draining, flushing with alcohol, and drying the system. Trouble is that the remaining LMA fluid will remain hygroscopic, and any droplets trapped in with the silicone could lead to both spots of corrosion and vapor lock at lower temps than pure silicone would provide. This made sense and seemed to make it imparative to flush and replace in order to benefit from the change. Others have blown compressed air through the system. >What have you been told? Did you take any precautions (fresh LMA first, then silicone) or just pump it in? Well... My brake jobs are usually percipitated by some necessity, ie the plastic reservoir has solarized and cracked, the system won't hold pressure with the pedal near the floor, pulling to one side, etc. In these cases, usually something is taken apart. More than once did I replace the reservoir (in the '72 Land Rover and '72 Triumph) ensuing in the disassembly of the master brake cylinder with a repair kit in hand to replace all essential rubber items, etc. Naively, I'd pry out the plunger to find the inside barrel pitted and corroded beyond recognition, the seals gummed up and disintegrating, and a yellow crystaline structure encaking everything (presumably the old LMA fluid). So, off I'd go to order a complete new master cylinder. These situations don't require precautions of cleaning the system or fluids mixing. The fact is that British rubbers disintegrate even with Girling LMA brake fluid, and your only chance is to use silicone. I've been told that there is NO chemical intolerance between the two types of brake fluid. Naturally, a clean system to start with would be ideal. In replacing old fluid (silicone or just LMA again), I have pumped out almost all of the old fluid in the reservoir, and then started in with new silicone, using long full strokes to replace the amount in the chamber without too much mixing. After that, I'm virtually certain that the fluid in the brake lines to the brake cylinders was replaced 100% by the pumping action with little mixing. Due to the reservoir in the brake cylinders, the fluids mixed somewhat. To eject the old fluid as much as possible my helper pumped the brake cylinders empty, this then caused the new fluid to be drawn into the chamber as much as possible. I inspected the color of the escaping silicone in the plastic tube to the point where I was satisfied that the system had been flushed. I know that on a molecular level there will always be remanants of the Girling fluid, but over time, as more things get replaced or refilled, the fluid will be all silicone. In any event, it's much better for the system than all LMA. >PS your basic bleeding instruction is a good clear account of much of what I learned trying to bleed the 109. You might submit it for the hypothetical 'tips' page we've all been discussing. I'm just a backyard tinkerer and don't profess to "know" anything, much less write FAQ's. I've had to depend on my vehicles to get about, and being short of both time and money, didn't relish the idea of repeating a repair. I think preventative maintenance is the key, with the credo 'Do it once, and do it right'. To that end, as with all simple concepts, the explanations get too involved. I'm almost embarrassed to write so much about very little; but then, the details become the pitfalls. -Michael (Your Mileage May Vary) Carradine cs@crl.com Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 95 14:57:03 EST From: "Lapa, Hank" <hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com> Subject: Re[2]: some questions Stefan, That's just what I was going to say. ;-) Hank "Doesn't-everyone-speak-Amurikun?" Lapa * * * * * * * * * * * * * Stefan Jacobs wrote: Date: 20 Apr 95 05:55:04 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Precedence: bulk Errors-To: LRO-Owner@uk.stratus.com X-To: lro <lro@team.net> Subject: Re: some questions X-edited-by: LRO-Lite Peter Kutschera wrote: > Endlich mal wer aus der "Naehe"! I suppose others on the list are too, er, polite to point this out to you, so I'll take it upon myself. First, welcome to the list! But please bear in mind that... das hier eine internationale Internet-mailing list ist, wo englisch quasi "Amtssprache" ist. Wir haben hier Leute aus den Niederlanden, Daenemark, Norwegen, Island... stell Dir vor, jeder breitet sich in seiner Landessprache aus. Auch wenn es schwerfaellt, messages die fuer die *ganze* Liste gedacht sind bitte nur auf englisch, alles andere grundsaetzlich nur als private e- mail. Vergiss nicht, dass alles was Du an die Liste schickst jedesmal von ueber 350 Leuten gelesen wird bzw. gelesen werden muss. Wie gesagt, Du bist hier nicht der einzige, der englisch radebrecht, also nur zu. Ausserdem lernst Du es auf diese Weise. Servus, Stefan - auch aus der Naehe (relativ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 14:45:14 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Removing steering dampers from 90s/110s >/I suppose I should have removed the steering damper for on-road use /even if it does wonders for my pectorals :-) From your earlier post about turning your steering wheel 90 degrees to start your turn, and the damper later breaking, the thing definetly wasn't working properly. Now you'll get to buy a new one and see how they're supposed to work. >They steer like sportscars without teh steering damper - very light steering no imprecision. And most importantl;y, emergency stops are FAR safer cos the .... lots of good information that I disagree with deleted..... >So, ironically, although removing the damper immeasurably improves tthe on-road handling adn safety, the beaurocrats will shit all over you if you do it. The steering might be lighter and more sensitive without a damper. May I suggest however that the rest of the steering system to some degree will now absorb some of the steering shock and in time will be worse off for the wear. The purpose of the damper is to smooth out the handling, all spurious minor shocks will be eliminated and major movement will be translated to the steering wheel --on road and off highway. I would put on a new shock of good quality and check the movement from wheelstop to wheelstop. After almost 16 years with the original shock (it had crapped out totally, I essentially had no shock!), my '72 Series III 88" would start to shimmy at speeds over 50 mph. The tires were aligned as much as possible --for a truck, but the shimmying started an oscillation that forced me to coast to a speed of 45 or less to get the Rover back in control. With a new Rancho 5000 however, all my steering problems went away. At slow speeds steering was no more difficult than before as the steering effort from the cab is geared and leveraged to overcome the shock resistance easily. I was suprised though, in comparing the new Rancho 5000 steering damper to the four new shock absorbers, it was much more difficult to manually move the damper than the shocks. In off-highway driving you don't want to punish your steering relay system with every bump and grind in the road. Let your tires kick butt against the rocks and dirt --the damper lets you place the tires in the direction YOU want to, not letting them be redirected by the roadway. On-highway, same thing, smooth _control_ is more important at high speed. Michael Carradine Carradine Studios Tel.510-254-3324 Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr.510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA cs@crl.com Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 1995 14:54:23 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest Donald Abbot <donald@spl.co.za> writes: >Thus many of the photo's include the Landie with the bonnet up. This, we discovered later, is standard. Not that they have engine problems, but LROs always seem to be surprised that the engine is still there! :-) Ha,HA, Ha. He, he ,he!! (Very funny za humor!) -Michael cs@crl.com Michael Carradine Carradine Studios Tel.510-254-3324 Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr.510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA cs@crl.com Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950417 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 38 lines 1639 [forwarded 94 whitespace 408] Output: lines 1393 [content 815 forwarded 73 (cut 21) whitespace 397]Back Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.