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Date: Sun, 16 Apr 1995 23:00:17 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Painting by hand

>  popular Series Land Rover colors are:

Maybe we should stick this info in the FAQ?  I'm gonna need it at some 
point, and don't want to bug everyone again for it.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 19:01:13 -0700
From: jimmyp@netcom.com (Jimmy Patrick)
Subject: more photos

Hi All.

I have some more photos on my web site, http://www.netpress.com/jimmyp/

Down at the bottom of that page is a link to more photos by LRO members.
right now, that is Bill Maloney. Soon There will be some good snaps from
Dave Place. Keep your eyes on that space for shots that have been submitted
for the Calendar. (sometimes the pictures are a bit slow, or broken if the
ftp server is too busy. keep trying.)

jimmy

--
Jimmy Patrick
jimmyp@netcom.com

------------------------------

From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 19:36:47 -0400
Subject: Fenders and doors

Can anybody tell me the usual way to replace the front panel on a Series IIA
fender?  The piece seems to be spot welded along the inside edge; do I just
drill those out and then rivit the replacement pieces?  Also, anyone with
bottom door halfs in good shape?  How about front fender panels?  E-mail me
direct with the price if you have any. 
                                        Thanks,
                                             J. Cassidy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 16:39:27 -0700
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: pleading ignorance

 Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com> writes:
>I have noticed a number of posts regarding Defender 90's. Some include "Tdi".
 What is the Tdi and is it any different than the "stock" D90???

 Turbo Diesel (Fuel) Injection.  Not available in the US.

-Michael Carradine
 cs@crl.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 16:40:04 -0700
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Bleedin' brakes !

cpitts@omi.co.uk (Chris Pitts) writes:
>HOW DO YOU BLEED THE BRAKES ON A LANDIE WITHOUT GOING INSANE ?

>I've got a LWB SIII, and I've just changed one of the rear brake cylinders.
 I have now pumped around 2 litres of brake fluid through the system, tried
 an Easibleed (couldn't get it to seal), jacked up the back by aound 1.5
 feet, had a friend of mine actually stamp on the pedal, sworn at it, kicked
 it AND THERE IS STILL AIR LEFT IN THE SYSTEM !

 One of the newletters here in the US (Rovers North??) indicated that
 jacking up the Rover actually traps the air in the wheel cylinders and
 it will be impossible to get the last air out.  So, (1) don't jack it up.

 Then note, that bleeding the brakes is an art done with finesse, and not
 "stamp(ing) on the pedal".  Lots of pumping action, particularily at the
 wrong moment, will only entrain air in the system and your brake fluid
 will begin to look like foam.  Sooo..., (2) press the brake pedal with a
 smooth even stroke.  Using a can of brake fluid that has been standing
 near the Rover for several hours to let all the air escape, *gently*
 fill up the reservoir, being careful not to create bubbles in the stream.
 place a clear plastic hose over the bleed nipple at the furthermost
 rear wheel (right rear).  The purpose of the hose is to direct the fluid
 into a container, instead of shooting it all over the undercarriage and
 flooring [brake fluid will remove paint!], and to "extend" the brake
 system.  The clear hose will give you an opportunity to inspect the
 expended fluid as it sits in the tube near the valve; and, it will
 prevent sucking air back into the system during bleeding --at most the
 expended fluid will return a bit into the brake cylinder.  Back to
 pressing the pedal-- Instruct your helper to begin the stroke and slowly
 press for a complete full cycle --that is, not a bunch of short strokes,
 but rather fewer long full strokes at even pressure.  As the stroke
 begins, open the valve and let the fluid pass.  Close the valve before
 the stroke bottoms out, that is, while the stroke is in progress and
 fluid is flowing into the tube.  Continue this process until the fluid
 runs clear of bubbles.  It helps to have your helper announce their
 action as the strokes proceed.  Next, move to the other rear wheel and
 repeat the process.  Then do the front wheel furthest from the reservoir
 (right front), and of course the last wheel.  After this you should have
 stiff resistance with the pedal about 1 to 2" from top.  If not, adjust the
 brake shoe spacing (actually, this should be done first!!) by turning the
adjustment knob until the free wheeling drum locks, and then backing it
 off until the drum can be turned easily by hand (usually two or three
 notches, or 1/2 to 3/4 turn).

 I've always tolerated a certain amount of sponginess or give, especially
 with new shoes, as long as full resistance is felt somewhere in the
 middle or 2/3rd of the stroke.  On my last brake job (new everything
 --master and wheel cylinders, shoes), it was hard to keep from flying
 through the windshield in the top 1/4 stroke  --thanks to seatbelts!
  
 As a suggestion, replace the Girling brake fluid with silicone brake
 fluid.  Silicone will not entrain air nearly as much as Girling.  The
 silicone is red or purple colored, and you will see the color change as
 it leaves the clear tubing.  Silicone will not remove paint, and it's
 highly compatible will all rubber parts of your vehicle, as well as the
 plastic reservoir (on Series III).  Silicone will not absorb water --the
 leading cause of corrosion, and has a much higher tolerance for heat in
 heavy braking (preferred by racers everywhere!).

 In theory, it should not take very much fluid to replace the entire
 brake system.  My German Volvo mechanic replaced the entire brake
 fluid in our station wagon with only *one pint* (I'm not certain if
 he was referring to the amount of ale in his "stein", or the new brake
 fluid in the vehicle!).

 My apolgies for babbling....

 Michael Carradine    Carradine Studios                   Tel.510-254-3324
 Architect            Architecture Development Planning   Pgr.510-945-5000
 NCARB RIBA           PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA           cs@crl.com

 Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

Subject: Pacific Northwest Team Trophy Challenge
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 16:04:42 -0700
From: Mike Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

An invitation to all of you who are up for it.

The 1st Annual Pacific Northwest Team Trophy Challenge 
	      May 20th and 21st, 1995. 

	Two Days - Two 4x4's - Forty Teams

Test your off road skills in a competetive event against others. 
This two day "Team" event should give you a chance to see how well
prepared both you and your 4x4's are.

Day 1- Teams will be departing at intervals immediately following 
the 9:00 AM drivers meeting. Order of departure will be determined
by a drawing of pre-registered entries on the day before. All
late entries will follow in the order of receipt.
	You will be require to complete two, appoximately 40 mile
courses, within a twelve hour period. Each course will have a
variety of tasks to perform along the way. You will encounter
vehicle obstacle courses, possibly a balance, or Trials section,
or winching situation where only one winch can be used for both
vehicles. You need to be able to read a Topo map and compass. At
times, the passenger/navigator may be required to follow a short
map-compass route on foot and meet back up down the road. This
first days event will be the most challenging terrain wise. If
the rain visits, you will be winching more than once.

Day 2- Time Distance Ralley with Tulip style orienteering chart.
This course will be challenging in other ways. Teams will leave
at intervals as determined by random drawing. Following the route
chart, you will follow an unmarked course, trying to maintain set
speeds between checkpoints.
	The winning team will have the best combined score from
both days activities. Even if you are not the competitive type,
this would be a great opportunity to test your skills in a
variety of conditions and activities.

- ----NOTE------

This is a limited entry event. We will be accepting a maximum of
only forty teams of two vehicles each. Each vehicle will be
require to pass a minimum inspection and safety requirements
outlined below.

What is a Team?

A team will consist of Two vehicles which shall have a driver for
each and at least one navigator, but no more than four people
total for the two vehicles.

Vehicle Requirements

- --All entries are to be street legal and licensed in their
  respective states. ORV stickers will be needed where applicable.
- --All vehicles must carry road legal liability insurance.
- --Hard tops or roll bars are required
- --One vehicle must have a working winch with the cable in good
  condition
- --All vehicles must carry a fire extinguisher, shovel, and axe.
- --Our safety inspectors will have final say as to vehicle
elegibility
- --Although we have no size restrictions at this time, keep in
mind that some places are very tight. You will be routed around
some places if you have a full sized truck or other.

Where to go

Go east on hwy 26 out of Portland, Or., and take the hwy 6 exit
towards Tillamook. The Campground is 3/4 mile west of Lee's Camp,
on the right. The only facilities at camp will be port-a-potties.
Gas is available 10 miles back at the BP station you passed or
down the road in Tillamook.

Deadlines 

Entry forms received before May 13th are $50.00 per vehicle.
After that date, please do not mail. Day of event registration
$60.00, if we have not reached our limit of forty teams. Refunds
will be given up to May 13th.

What do you get!

Hopefully, one fantastic weekend. As a minimum, we will provide a
great lunch on Sunday, while we tabulate scores, a Dash Plaque,
and a chance to do some top notch off roading. Great prizes will
be awarded to the top finishers.

If you would like to participate, email me direct for an entry
form. This is your chance to prove that Land Rovers are the
supreme 4wd vehicle.

rgds
Mike Fredette
D90, Portland, Or.
------- End of Forwarded Message

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 21:17:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stephanie Changaris <changris@netcom.com>
Subject: Re: CB Reccomendations (fwd)

Subject: Re: CB Reccomendations

There was dicussion recently about CB Antenna mounting locations for NA 
spec, i.e. softtop D90's.  I have a K40 antenna mounted on a custom 
bracket bolted into the top swing-away spare tire carrier attachment. 
Just replace the existing bolt with a longer one and bolt in a short 
section of angle pre-drilled for the antenna. Painted flat black it 
blends in with the carrier and works quite well.

Bruce Bonar
94 D90 "Spot"

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 00:25:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: some questions

Franz asks...
 
> *A 1970 car should have black seats, black dashboard and the lights
> on the wings.Right? This one had  all this exept the lights were in
> the grill.(Just curios about this)

The grill panel and wings may have been changed to an older style by a
previous owner.

> *Any opinions about Mercedes Benz Diesels in LRs?

You're serious, right? Never seen it done.. Here in the US, the older MB
diesels are pretty well known for being slow.. Very slow. So probably no-one
has tried that conversion here.

> *The steering had about 90degr. play. The guy selling the car told
> me that this could be solved be simply adjusting the steering mechanism.

Could be worn track rod ends too. Get underneath and look at the linkage for
play while someone turns the steering wheel left and right.

> *He, too told me that he changed the oil in the swivel balls to grease,

Probably not too good for the universal joints inside the swivel balls.
 
> He was asking 5000DM (~3600 US$). But I thing I will have a look at some
> more Land Rovers before I buy one.

The price seems a bit high.. Good luck in your search.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 00:24:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Rita scores in England!

Uncle Roger Gloats...
 
> She brought me a Britains model Disco!  It's a burgandy tdi model, and I 
> love it.  Ha!  Prolly one of the only model Discos in the states!  <gloat,

Yes, it is rather nice...  

(I've seen the picture in the Britains catalog....)    :)

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------

Subject: NEW stamps
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 95 23:22:18 -0500

Have today received price for new stamp coming out and have placed an 
order for all those who replied on the net.

Anyone else email me and I'll put in another order.

Rgds

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Subject: used Discovery for sale
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 95 23:23:47 -0500

A local dealer has a '95 Discovery with about 24,000 k on it for sale.

Undestand he wants 43,900  [canadian $ -wpc]
its black with leather, should be an auto, has air plus cd

If you need to know more...
email me

ususal disclaimers etc etc

Rgds

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Apr 1995 13:54:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stephanie Changaris <changris@netcom.com>
Subject: Re: CB Reccomendations

There was dicussion recently about CB Antenna mounting locations for NA 
spec, i.e. softtop D90's.  I have a K40 antenna mounted on a custom 
bracket bolted into the top swing-away spare tire carrier attachment. 
Just replace the existing bolt with a longer one and bolt in a short 
section of angle pre-drilled for the antenna. Painted flat black it 
blends in with the carrier and works quite well.

Bruce Bonar
94 D90 "Spot"

------------------------------

From: "GAWIE VAN BLERK" <A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za>
Date:          Wed, 19 Apr 1995 08:26:34 GMT+200
Subject:       Re: Unlurking

Hi Donald

> around southern Africa including Mocambique, Malawi, Zimbabwe, Botswana, 
> Namibia and Lesotho.

Let me know when next you are coming down to Lesotho. Would like to 
try it out in winter. With snow and all that you know. Was thinking 
of going in at Butha Butha round Oxbow, Mokotlong, down and up Sani 
Pass and back to Maseru via  Thaba Tseka. I did all of this except 
the Sani Pass part in a VW combi. Got realy scared, but managed to 
complete it. Must say i turned right at Thaba Tseka and returned via 
Katse dam as It was getting late and I had to get on some tar or my 
nerves would have been gone.
 
> Paul, in his reply to Gawie mentioned Autobooks in Randburg. I think he 
> meant Motor Books in Craighall Park. The addresses (taken from the 'phone 
> directory) are:

Thanks for the numbers. Will phone them now. I can swear I saw a 
Haynes book on the One-Ten (198? - 1989) somewhere. Maybe somebode can check 
with Haynes themselves and let us know.

Greetings

Gawie.
Gawie van Blerk
Internet : A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za (work)
         : gawie@pixie.co.za (home)
Tel      : 27 51 404 2421

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Apr 1994 03:20:48 -0600 (CST)
From: "S.Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: Rover things

Hi all.

First things first: Thanks to those who responded to my charge problem note.
I sanded the terminals and the main wire. I didn't know that a clean battery
could be that dirty. Now everything is shining and i'm ready to take
Lawrence to a custom car show.

A few things happened recently. The month began with a moving operation. My
brother's sister in law's boyfriend tried to kill her and she is now living
under cover. Unfortunately there was no evidence against him so he is still
at large. My brother and i had to empty the apartment and move all her stuff
to his mother in law's basement. We moved all the loose stuff first and came
back for the furniture. She has a lot of this modern module furniture so
with a little shifting and sliding we could use almost all available space
in the back. About one cu mm air left :-). The roof rack took nine standard
size moving boxes. A 150x200 cm closet backplate was too large to fit
anywhere so we tied it to the side. Aurens looked like a real expedition.
"Hey- we don't want no gipsies here, go camp somwhere else" ;-).
Pain is that they have to build these traffick bumps everywhere.

Tuesday this week i was driving my brother to the station in his 88. Of
course i snapped an axle on the main street of Lyngby. During the rush hour.
When we pushed it to the side for inspection, a bus almost took off the
door. We started slowly with the ears in 7'th position and drove to Ballerup
where i live to change to my 109. Running late i pushed Aurens trough the
rush hour traffic of Copenhagen. On the way home it started to rumble. So
either the p-brake springs are lazy or the gearbox is on the way out. I
shook the wheels to check bearings but the wheels are firm in place. I'll
have to spend the weekend under Lawrence. Also ordered rear springs, 4
shocks, 6 steering balls and some filters and gaskets. 250 punds, just
about what i got back from the tax dept. The curent rear springs looks
pretty funny right now. All the blades are pointing in separate directions.
An example of individualism.

Well, the engine is running better than ever and spring(time) is just around the
corner.

Happy roving.
sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: "David McKain" <MCKAIN@faculty.coe.wvu.edu>
Date:          Mon, 17 Apr 1995 08:59:36 EDT
Subject:       Infection

Seems like my office mate is headed to Pittsburgh to look at/purchase 
a '74 SWB. He has helped me a bit in rebuilding a '66 SWB and, I guess 
once you get to ride in a Land Rover, the bug can really get you. 
This will really put Morgantown, WV up in the LR/Citizen ratio if he 
buys it. As usual, the frame is rotten but he can weld aluminum so, 
who knows. Another hapless soul.

Take care,

David McKain
1966 SIIa Petrol
mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu
(304) 599-0120
Morgantown, WV
USA                     

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Apr 1995 23:00:10 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: 7.50x16 Radial M&S Tyres

I've heard good things about the Radial Rovers from Dunlop, and that's what 
I intend to end up with all around.  In fact, I'm pretty sure that's what's 
on my 109" at the moment.  If you don't want radials, their Triple Trac's 
are also good.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Apr 1994 03:20:56 -0600 (CST)
From: "S.Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: Film (movie)

Hi

I don't remember if the film "Africa Express" was ever discussed on the
list. Jack Palance is the bad guy and is seen in a Toyo Landcrasher.

Otherwise it's full of Bedford J6 (we used to have them when i was in the
artillery 10 years ago) and series Landies of all models and conversions.

sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: "GAWIE VAN BLERK" <A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za>
Date:          Wed, 19 Apr 1995 09:27:53 GMT+200
Subject:       LR110 Haynes Manuals

Good news to all 110 owners. The Haynes manual for the 110 series 
will be available by July. I suppose the wil cover all 110, 90, 130 
models, V8, Tdi etc ???

Just got this news from Motor Books, Jo'burg. They say it will cost 
R142.00 as opposed to the R399.95 for the full set of workshop 
manuals.

Greetings
Gawie van Blerk
---------------------------------------------------------------
Internet : A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za (work)
         : gawie@pixie.co.za (home)
URL      : http://www.pix.za/0/business/bloemfontein/gawie.html
Tel      : 27+51+404-2421
---------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE
Subject: thanks for your answers
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 10:16:19 +0200 (MET DST)

Hi all,
I just wanted to say thanks for all the answers on my questions
about the 1970 SIIA SWB I looked at last weekend.
Maybe I'll nerve you again when I look at the next one ;-)

Yours Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall     fparzefa@physik.tu-muenchen.de     
---------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 08:27:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: Booted?!

Have I been booted off the digest?!  Would someone kindly email me 
directly and tell me if they still receive it, since I haven't gotten it 
since Thursday of last week - that way I'll know if I need to re-subscribe.
Thanks in advance...
Frank

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 95 13:27:23 BST
From: cpitts@omi.co.uk (Chris Pitts)
Subject: Re: Bleedin' brakes ! Thanks.

Thanks to everyone who replied to my plea for help with bleeding Landie
brakes.  I've got several things to look at and/or try this w/e
(weather/girlfriend/beer (!) permitting) - such as

front braking system (ie. being able to clamp the hose halfway and removing
the symptoms could be a red herring)
more gentle bleeding (literally one slave cylinder at a time !)
industrial strength Easibleed
double check brake adjustment (there _is_ something odd about one of the
adjusters...)
etc etc....

I'll let you know how I get on.

Chris
(now a little more hopeful about retaining his sanity)

-----------------
Chris Pitts (cpitts@omi.co.uk)            Tel +44 (0)1223 518580
Online Media, Cambridge, UK               Fax +44 (0)1223 518520

My views only - nothing to do with Online Media!
-----------------
tree: n. something which stands still for hundreds of years, then leaps out
in front of you as you return from a party.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Apr 1994 14:54:54 +0200
From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl)
Subject: Speedo problems

Thanks to everyone who pointed out what my speedometer troubles were...

It turned out that the rear output flange nut was indeed loose, as a piece
of the rubber covered felt seal was jammed between the washer and the flange.
When it disintegrated the nut was loose.

Terje Krogdahl
terje@tvnorge.no
http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/index.e.html
1972 SIII 88"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 15:58:56 +0200
From: peter@zditr1.arcs.ac.at (Peter Kutschera)
Subject: Re: some questions

Hallo!

Endlich mal wer aus der "Naehe"!

:) Hi all
:) last friday I could take my  first close look at a Land Rover (which
:) means that I was also lying under it). It was 1970 SIIA 88". Now I
:) have some questions which I couldn't solve with the FAQ:
:) 
:) *A 1970 car should have black seats, black dashboard and the lights
:) on the wings.Right? This one had  all this exept the lights were in
:) the grill.(Just curios about this)
Mein 1968 SIIA 109" hat die Lichter auch innen.
:) 
:) *Any opinions about Mercedes Benz Diesels in LRs?
:) 
:) *The steering had about 90degr. play. The guy selling the car told
:) me that this could be solved be simply adjusting the steering mechanism.
Soll er mal vormachen! 
Schau doch nach, wo das Spiel herkommt. Warscheinlich vom Lenkrelay am
vorderen Ende der Lenkstange. Bei meinem LR ist da eine Oeleinfuellschraube,
da kann man reinschauen. Bei 90 Grad Spiel wurde ich damit rechnen, dasz da
einige Teile lose drinnliegen. Mit Oel wurde ich dort aber nicht rechnen!

Ich hatte das Ding unnoetigerweise ausgebaut. Da mein LR 2 Jahre in der Wiese
stand neigte er dazu in unvorhersehbare Richtunge zu fahren. Das Problem waren 
aber die (tja, wie nennt man das?) Lenk-Lager an den Raedern. Lt. Manual
sollte so ein Rad mit einigen Kg Zug am Auge der Spurstange zu bewegen sein
(aufgehoben natuerlich). Ich hab eine 1.20 Meter lange Stange benoetigt. 

Jedenfalls war die Lenkstange relativ leicht auszubauen. Ich hab unter dem 
Ausbuff so ca. 10x10 cm Blech rausgechnitten. 

:) *He, too told me that he changed the oil in the swivel balls to grease,
Hab ich auch gemacht.
:) which should not matter with free wheeling hubs and running in 2wd most 
Ich hab keine Freilaufnarben und aufgrund diverser Warnungen hab ich wieder Oel
eingefuellt. Ist wieder Erwarten drinn geblieben!
:) of the time. He sayed, that he had done so in his 1966 SWB, which he
:) uses for towing wood in the forest for several years with no damage.
:) Even he is running this one mostly in 4wd.
:) 
:) In general the car seemed to be in good condition. Yes, there was rust at
:) the frame at some parts, but no holes, just the paint peeling off a bit.
No holes? 
Hmmm. Ich hatte auch keine sichtbaren Loecher, aber sobald man
etwas klopft oder stochert....
Ich hab dann etwa einen halben Quadratmeter Blech aufgeschweiszt. Seither 
reichen ca. 400 Quadratzentimeter jedes Jahr. 

:) He was asking 5000DM (~3600 US$). But I thing I will have a look at some
:) more Land Rovers before I buy one.

Die Bremsen sind auch eine Ueberpruefung am Pruefstand wert. 

:) 
:) BTW is there anibody who has a TDI engine in a Serie Land Rover?
:) 
:) Yours
:) Franz
:) ---------------------------------------------------------------
:) Franz Parzefall     fparzefa@physik.tu-muenchen.de     
:) ---------------------------------------------------------------
:) 

MfG, Peter

Signature: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 16:20:51 +0200
From: peter@zditr1.arcs.ac.at (Peter Kutschera)
Subject: Re: How To's

Nice idea!
(I just had to change a ball bearing in my gearbox.)

But i think my english isn't good enough to write an article about this.

My main problem are the englich names for all this thinks 
like gearbox, clutch,..

Is there a Englich-German dictionary for Landrovers available in the net? 

(I heared about a printed dictonary for saylors: Each item is given in 
 seven or so languages)

Peter
Signature: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter

------------------------------

Date: 19 Apr 95 11:04:47 EDT
From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: catching up

After 2 weeks our of the office (Internet World and other exciting activities --
*yawn*) it's catch-up time.

News... I pick up my D90 this afternoon!  I can't wait! 

Sighting:  Who had the Series III I saw driving past at the San Jose airport
when I got off the plane last Sunday?  It was light green with British plates on
it and it was probably the quietest LR I have ever heard... The Bentley parked
at the terminal offloading luggage made more noise...  

Sighting:  A Lumber store chain called 84 Lumber that is big in the Midwest has
a Range Rover in its promoition... the CEO is pictured in a Ranger Rover.  The
only way you can tell, though, is that the doorhandle is definitely RR -- no
other parts of the car are visible.

Finally, anyone from OH or points West going to the BRLRC meet on may 5-7 and
want to convoy out?  

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: How-To's
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 95 18:22:45 BST

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Repost : How-To's and Steering Damper Fault
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 95 18:56:01 BST

I'm going to repost this - vi just went to hell and I think it got 
posted before I had finished.  Sorry for inconveniences.

Specific information on 'how to' do a particular job would be great, 
particularly if any info. includes those little tips you only learn
with experience.  How about using the LR workshop manuals as a guide 
and then commenting on the procedure's pitfalls?  I'm of the feeling,
though, that there is a bit of a lack of diagnostic or troubleshooting
guidance - we occasionally see someone ask the list 'how do I remove my
engine/steering wheel/rear axle' but more often the problems are
in diagnosis of a fault or people requiring general guidance.

How about a short how to list aimed at those first-time buyers (Taylor? Ever?)
who get their new second/third/fourth hand baby home and then drive it around 
for 2K miles and don't really know what to check up on.  Simple things you
need to keep checking before your first catastrophe or major overhaul
forces you to learn them!

It took me ages to work out what the steering relay _was_, let alone how to
fill it.  

Anyone out there prepared to vet / improve such a list if I prepare a draft?

Thought I might do one on "what is wrong with my 2.25 diesel and how do
I fix it?", similar to the article entitled "My diesel smokes _a lot_ - what
does it mean" on the RoverWeb page, but slightly more specific
and including some points not mentioned...  Anyone prepared to help?
(Mike R?!!!) 

I can just see this one - My diesel doesn't produce _enough_ black smoke
under load; how do I fix it?  ;-)

A little aside / precautionary tale;  My current beast is fitted with a 
steering damper.  Usual cornering technique is gentle but firm pressure
on the wheel to take up the 90 degree phase lag between when you start 
turning the wheels and when the turn actually starts, followed by a 
firmer push to actually get the thing to go round the corner (all 
as per the age-old philosophy of never, ever slowing down a 2.25 
diesel!)...

This time as I applied the hard push, the steering damper ceased to
function.  Result; Instant 'power steering'.  The wheels turned about
twice as far as I expected and I thought "oh, deary me" (or something
along those lines).  Fortunately it was wet and the front tyres are 
effectively slicks so they just slid.  Even so, that's the closest I've
come to rolling a Landrover, as the inside wheels lifted. 
Haven't disassembled the damper yet but will do so to find the fault.
It feels like something snapped - not just wear.

Made it round the corner but can anyone suggest a good detergent for
stained trousers?  I guess if I was in the US I could sue someone for
the damage to the trousers?!

I suppose I should have removed the steering damper for on-road use 
even if it does wonders for my pectorals :-)  

Anyone else had this happen?  All comments appreciated.

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

------------------------------

From: harincar@internet.mdms.com
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 13:16:38 -0500
Subject: re: How To's

Replying to my own posts again...

realised a little late there *is* a similar place on the web site - the
'tips' area, but I think there is a lot more discussed here than ends up
there (a matter of free time to type procedures and post them, I suppose).

I did like the spring bushing thread that was there, as my springs are 
shot and creak like an old buggy, not to mention the list to the right...
There was an interesting discussion last summer on listing and creaking
that would be a good addition to the summary on the web.

I also liked the short summary on the "Sticky Steering Wheel", since anytime
it rains or is real humid mine gets really gross. Anyone know of a leather
cover that you can get for it? I asked RN, but they don't stock one, and
the ones I see at the department stores only fit wheels up to 18", and I
measured mine at 19" (old IIa wire spoke type).

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@internet.mdms.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Wed, 19 Apr 1995 16:53:18 GMT -0600
Subject:       Exchange rate

I don't know if this will go through since I haven't received a 
digest since the 14th, but here goes.
If anyone wants the current excahange rates they're updated weekly at:

http://gnn.com/cgi-bin/gnn/currency?Britain

If you're already on the net it's a quick way to check it out.

Tom Rowe
University of Wisconsin			
Madison, WI		Four wheel drive allows you to get
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu	stuck in places even more inaccessible.

Tom Rowe
University of Wisconsin-Madison
Center for Dairy Research
1605 Linden Dr., Madison, WI 53706
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578
Home:608-243-8660
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu

------------------------------

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