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From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 07:37:09 -0400
Subject: Re: RR Available for Immediate Sale/BSROA

Michael Anthony writes:
   and would prefer to pass the value to someone who appreciates and
   can benefit, rather than Trade-In Vehicle.  

This isnt because jim pappas wants you to donate it to the BSROA as a
*project vehicle* is it?

Rgds...
Spenny

Spencer K. C. Norcross                               Spenny@aol.com
Haverhill, Mass. USA                                   508-521-4093
===--===---===---===---===---===---===---===---===--===
                     1969 IIA SWB - The Wayback Machine
           Now with most of the Federally requred electrics!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 07:16:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Russell <jrussell@netcom.com>
Subject: Steering relay filling...

Whenever I have filled this little gem I have always become so frustrated 
by it that I remove the steering arm and relay top cover.  Still 
frustrating but not quite as bad.

                  Jim Russell   ====   jrussell@netcom.com
                         (Seattle -- San Francisco)            

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 15:22:50 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Oil Cooling...

This is not specific to Land-Rovers, but as a LRO and home mechanic, I 
know many of you are the kind of down-the-pub inventors and engineers 
that LR ownership makes you.  So here goes.

This debate came up shortly after Taylor's military oil-cooler (does it 
use oil to cool the engine?) question.  I asked another tinkerer friend 
if he saw any reason you _couldn't_ use oil to cool an engine... I mean, 
IN THE COOLING SYSTEM.

Now I know that, of course, you could design an engine to work this way, 
but I was wondering what the potential pit-falls were, and if there was 
any really sound reason NOT to try this in (no not my daily runner) a 
project engine without mods to the system.

Now here are my basic thoughts.

Big advantages:

 No corrosion in the system.
 No need to change seasonally (won't freeze... but thicken?)
 No incompatibility with fuel/lubricants (ie 'water in the sump')
 No fear of boil-over (if you boil oil, you've got a problem)
 Potentially one fewer fluid to carry on long trips.

Things to consider/reasons against:

 Heat Capacity of the oil.
 Viscosity of the oil.
 Reactivity of the oil (w/hoses).
 Expense of the oil.

What is needed is:

 High heat capacity.
 A lightweight oil.
 Well buffered/non reactive (don't use old engine oil)
 Relatively inexpensive oil.

I need a chemist to discuss heat capacity. I can look up something simple 
in Merck Index, but someone in refining/Chem. Eng. might know better.

Lightweight oil is available, but would an oil pump labor too hard with
just straight 40 weight? I don't know. The oil would thicken in winter,
decreasing circulation, but I think two things can be said here. A) There are
no passages in a cooling system as narrow as those in the lubrication
system, so the variation in viscosity would be less noticable. I think
only the heater core and radiator have narrow piping, really. B) When the
engine is cold, it doesn't need the cooling: thus you remove the need for
a thermostat... 

Most engine oils, when new, are buffered/modified to protect the engine. 
I don't think they eat rubber hoses (I hope not judging by the look of my 
engine bay...) This would be a great improvement on changing the mucky, 
nasty, coolant full of corrosion from years of neglect and too little 
anti-freeze. 

I don't think, given the potential advantages, cost should be a problem. 
Ethylene glycol isn't cheap as it is, and if you could get away with not 
changing the coolant for 3-5+++ years, it gets to be like silicone break 
fluid.  Expensive to start with (20 pounds/30 dollars on the outside?) 
but an infrequent expense.

I'd welcome any additional facts/opinions/ideas. Would ATF be 
appropriate? Mineral Oil? Olive oil? EP90 cut with Diesel fuel ;-)

What mods might make it work? New hoses? New oil pump impeller design? 
Clutch/gear on the coolant pump?

If this is viable, why doesn't anyone do it?  I can't be the first person 
to think about trying.

Cheers,
Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

From: "Kerner, Robert" <FORK0@smtp.ais.ucla.edu>
Subject: Spotted
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 95 12:40:00 PDT

I saw two 88's yesterday(Sunday) in Southern Cal.  The first one was on 
Sepulveda Blvd. going towards the Valley at the top of the hill.  It was a 
green one with some rust colored primer on the panels and it was being towed 
by a van.  THe second was a really nice looking white 88.  The paint looked 
close to fresh, at least it looked like it doesn't go off road much.  Was 
that anyone listening to the list?

 -Rob
fork0@smtp.ais.ucla.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 95 10:05:55 BST
From: cpitts@omi.co.uk (Chris Pitts)
Subject: Bleedin' brakes !

OK....I give up.

HOW DO YOU BLEED THE BRAKES ON A LANDIE WITHOUT GOING INSANE ?

I've got a LWB SIII, and I've just changed one of the rear brake cylinders.
I have now pumped around 2 litres of brake fluid through the system, tried
an Easibleed (couldn't get it to seal), jacked up the back by aound 1.5
feet, had a friend of mine actually stamp on the pedal, sworn at it, kicked
it AND THERE IS STILL AIR LEFT IN THE SYSTEM !

I _know_ it's in the back part of the system because I can clamp the brake
hose halfway, and everything is OK.

Any suggestions welcome - I'm clean out of ideas.

Frustrated in Ipswich, UK
-----------------
Chris Pitts (cpitts@omi.co.uk)            Tel +44 (0)1223 518580
Online Media, Cambridge, UK               Fax +44 (0)1223 518520

My views only - nothing to do with Online Media!
-----------------
tree: n. something which stands still for hundreds of years, then leaps out
in front of you as you return from a party.

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE
Subject: some questions
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 09:44:53 +0200 (MET DST)

Hi all
last friday I could take my  first close look at a Land Rover (which
means that I was also lying under it). It was 1970 SIIA 88". Now I
have some questions which I couldn't solve with the FAQ:

*A 1970 car should have black seats, black dashboard and the lights
on the wings.Right? This one had  all this exept the lights were in
the grill.(Just curios about this)

*Any opinions about Mercedes Benz Diesels in LRs?

*The steering had about 90degr. play. The guy selling the car told
me that this could be solved be simply adjusting the steering mechanism.

*He, too told me that he changed the oil in the swivel balls to grease,
which should not matter with free wheeling hubs and running in 2wd most 
of the time. He sayed, that he had done so in his 1966 SWB, which he
uses for towing wood in the forest for several years with no damage.
Even he is running this one mostly in 4wd.

In general the car seemed to be in good condition. Yes, there was rust at
the frame at some parts, but no holes, just the paint peeling off a bit.
He was asking 5000DM (~3600 US$). But I thing I will have a look at some
more Land Rovers before I buy one.

BTW is there anibody who has a TDI engine in a Serie Land Rover?

Yours
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall     fparzefa@physik.tu-muenchen.de     
---------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 00:00:59 -0700
From: jimmyp@netcom.com (Jimmy Patrick)
Subject: Mabel in Wales, WWW

Hi all.

6 days and counting until Mabel and I are reunited! For all of you with www
access, take a look at my web page for those snapshots from Wales that I
promised. My home page is at:

http://www.netpress.com/jimmyp/

Take a look and let me know what you think. About the calendar, I have
received some great shots from Dave Place and Bill Maloney. (keep your eyes
peeled for return mail guys)  If anyone else wants to send some photos,
mail them to me at:

jimmy patrick
437 University Ave
Los Gatos, CA 95030

Nor-Cal-ers, i know we'll have some good shots after the Joe Lucas Mendo Rallye.

cheers,

jimmyp

--
Jimmy Patrick
jimmyp@netcom.com

------------------------------

From: Pete Young <pyoung@srd.bt.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 95 09:28:26 BST
Subject: Returned mail: User unknown

paul@frcs.alt.za writes:

>I didn't know that Haynes did a 110 manual (I've only seen the

It doesn't. I've checked the catalogue.

Apart from the workshop manuals, the only 110 manual I"ve found is a
servicing guide published by LRO Publications (address in International
Land Rover Owner).

It costs 10 quid, but I'm not sure it represents good value. The central
chapter on what you need to service is solid enough, but much of the
rest of it appears to be taken up with advertisements for Castrol,
David's Isopon and Kamasa tools!

Pete

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 09:46:35 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Oil Cooling...

> (scene in a pub)
> "Look here.. The engine in my Land-Rover just doesn't leak enough oil now.
> What say we modify it so it has the potential to leak literally gallons of
> oil?"

> "Quite right. Maybe we can get that chap from the Linkage Guild who designed
> the Ser I clutch and brake linkages to work on it."

Ah, but you miss the simple beauty of my plan. Now _all_ my leaking fluids 
would be compatible. Fewer spares to carry, no worrys about leaks between 
fluids, and I could just put a giant drain-pan under the car and re-cycle ;-)

Charlie

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: filling steering relays
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 14:53:01 +0930 (CST)

Hi Gang, all this talk of topping up steering relays shamed me into action.
After what amounted to a minor archeological dig I found the beloved 2BA
spanner and set to work.  Well actually I just undid one top and one bottom
bolt and went inside for a nice plate of pasta and a glass or 3 of red
wine...  
Next mornng the challenge of refilling the damn thing confronted me.  Bouyed
by the previous nights excesses, there simply *had* to be an easier way....
Then it occured to me..  The biggest problem is getting the oil to the bottom
of the unit whilst air comes out the tiny hole at the top....

So why not fill from the bottom!

One slightly worn 50ml syringe, short length of vacuum hose, ~ 90-100 ml gear
oil and a couple of minutes later.... Full  (almost painless)

Dont know why I never thought of it before, give it a whirl.

cheers
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

From: EvanD103@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 1995 19:50:42 -0400
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Dail...

It's been three days since I've recieved the Digest.  The last time this
happened I was flamed for not reading the notice of an impending shutdown.
 Did I miss it again?
Has anyone rebuilt a  2.25 Petrol fuel pump lately?  I ordered a kit from
John Craddock, got an aftermarket equivalent of the LR part number AEU2760.
 It looked fine except that the washers on either side of the pump diaphragm
appeared to have been reversed.  The original part had the smaller dished
washer on the bottom to center the return spring, the new one had this one on
top.  I complained to Craddock, they sent a Genuine Land Rover kit, albeit
made in Turkey.  It was made the same way. I called Rovers North and
explained my problem.  To my pleasant surprise Art offered to pull a kit from
their stock for comparison.  Theirs was also made opposite that pictured in
the manual and opposite the original part.  He checked with a coworker who
said it should work anyway.
    I want to believe them, but at the rate my "frame off" restoration is
going the parts warranty may expire before I find out!!!
    Any words of encouragement?
Sincerely,
Erik van Dyck
Stone Mountain, Georgia
1973 Ser III 88"

------------------------------

From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Land Rover Mirrors
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 10:30:29 +0100 (BST)

Ian
90/110 mirrors fit easily onto a SIII and are a big improvement. Not
only can you see rearwards better, but they spring out of the way more
easily than the old type if you hit a tree or dyke. I think a conversion
kit (plus mirrors) cost about 15 quid from the likes of Craddocks.
Cheers!

-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

------------------------------

From: rmodica@east.pima.edu
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 1995 18:05:38 MST
Subject: Missing Digests

I have not received the Digest since Friday 4/14.  Is it me or thee?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 1995 21:12:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" <swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu>
Subject: Not receiving any messages

Did the list die?  Did you kick me off?  Can I get back on, without going 
to digest?  Did I say something wrong?
Somebody please let me know, I am getting depressed because for days I 
have not had my roverfix.  And with the new one coming, I need it now 
more than ever.
So please, if anyone receives this, write to me and tell me HOW TO GET 
BACK ON!!!!!!!
thnx
steve
swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu
'73 III 88 SW   "Moose"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 1995 22:13:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stephanie Changaris <changris@netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Winch Break-in

 Granville B. wrote:
 
> We chained the back of my Land-Rover to a tree...

I have heard that this can result in damage to the frame, stretching?, 
and it is a better idea to run a chain or strap under the winch vehicle 
to the winch mount.  I don't know of anyone actually causing any damage 
but it certainly would avoid stressing the rear member.  Than again you 
did seem somewhat interested in a 90 instead of an 88.

> As soon as I started reeling in the cable, it started sucking down, into the
> lower layers of cable wrapped on the drum.  

I would suspect that the gradual "breaking in" process you described 
would in fact prevent the cable from getting sucked into lower layers but 
Ben's right you could just start with the heaviest load at the beginning 
and achieve the same effect.

> I'm going to have to
> unwind it again and lay those kinks on an anvil and try to pound them out
ith a hammer, unless someone knows a better way to remove them.

I've got several rigging books as well as wire rope manufacturer assoc. 
literature at the office, I'll check them and let you know.

I'll also get names and phone numbers of sling suppliers as an 
alternative source for tree straps and snatch blocks.

Bruce Bonar
D 90, "Spot" 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 09:00:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: An Easter LRO

	The LRO mailing-list manage to only do half the Easter routine?

------------------------------

From: "thomas r. coron" <tcoron@s850.mwc.edu>
Subject: Did my Mailer barf??
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 7:26:05 EDT

Since I haven't received any LR mail since friday, I assume
that either majordomo has a problem, or I've been dropped
because my mailer barfed again. ????????

Tom

Tom Coron         tcoron@s850.mwc.edu
King George,Va.   703-775-4575
'66' IIA 88 RHD

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 15:11:56 +0200 (GMT+0200)
From: Donald Abbot <donald@spl.co.za>
Subject: Unlurking

Hi

My name is Donald Abbot. I have been rovering since '85. I have two Land 
Rovers, one a '73 Series II and the other a '72 Series III. Both have had 
engine transplants. The Series III has a Chev 4.1 with a Fairey overdrive 
and the Series II has a Toyota Land Cruiser 3F motor with the older 
gearbox that came out with the 2F motor. I have used these vehicles all 
around southern Africa including Mocambique, Malawi, Zimbabwe, Botswana, 
Namibia and Lesotho.

Paul, in his reply to Gawie mentioned Autobooks in Randburg. I think he 
meant Motor Books in Craighall Park. The addresses (taken from the 'phone 
directory) are:

Motor Books
341 Jan Smuts ave
Craighall Park
Tel.: 880 6352

and

Autobooks
602 Rudi Neitz st
Vorna Valley
Tel.: 805 0708 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 95 15:19 MST
From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II)
Subject: WARN hubs

I am searching for information about the WARN hubs.  The PO of my Land
Rover smashed one of them against a rock, so it is very difficult to
lock or unlock it.  I would like to have some idea of what I am
getting into before I dismantle it.

James

------------------------------

From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 13:39:28 -0700
Subject: pleading ignorance

I have noticed a number of posts regarding Defender 90's. Some include "Tdi".
What is the Tdi and is it any different than the "stock" D90???

Also, I finally went and test drove both the D90 and Disco this weekend. Nice
experience but the two are definitely different!!! Question: the salesman and
various written descriptions allude to both being permanent 4wd with hi and
lo ranges *and* lockable center diff. The salesman indicated that although
not limited slip, the permanent 4wd is similar (is this related to the spider
gears???), and all 4 wheels are being driven all of the time. I asked about
what happens when one wheel slips. He said the other three wheels continue to
drive. True??? When the going gets rougher, (both in lo and hi) the driver
can slip the diff into neutral and it is locked. True??? At this point, he
said, one runs the risk of breaking the axles because the wheels are forced
to turn at the same speed. True??? Better yet, could someone please spell out
what is really going on here.

BTW, although for various reasons I couldn't take him up on this, (I think I
was getting slimed), the guy started me off with list pricing for both Disco
and D90 with some acc.s that I was interested in. I asked if these were firm,
"oh, no, we have room to negotiate here". I kept pointing out that I couldn't
do anything right now,  (the current situation I find myself in has great
risk associated with spending money right now) , but he wanted to know what I
would offer (we're talking both cars: I want the D90, my wife wants the
Disco). I finally said both cars for the price of one (hey, why not???).
(With AC, back seat, full rag top, brush guard, tow package and a few other
things on the D90, 40K; while the Disco would have tow package, brush guard,
leather, 2 AC, jump seats, at, extra roof rack, running boards and a few
other things, 43K). He said ok both for 43K, I said no both for 40K (might as
well, he said the sales manager that day wanted to make things move). He
wrote up a agreement to initial to take to the sales manager. At this point I
was thinking that this would be real neat to get both making the average cost
20K loaded. I backed away at the last millisecond because of my current
financial risk situation. I really wonder if the would have sold both for
such a steal. Thoughts?? Was I being toyed with and they would then move the
price up?

How is the LR winch that can be purchased? Am I better off going with an
aftermarket product?

Am I better off getting the seat fabric and getting aftermarket leather or is
the standard issue "Connolly" leather top notch?

The towing capacities are odd it seems. Same engine and all but the D90 can't
tow as much. How come? Also, the capacities off road and in low are in
compatible with one another. When in low, I can tow something like 7700 lbs
on road, while off road I am severely limited. However, in a more reasonable
hi range my towing capacity goes down to something like 5500 lbs. It seems
like low range doesn't get me going very fast and therefore is of limited
use. Am  missing something here?

I also noticed that the engine compartment and acc's are very different
between the two cars. The D90 uses smaller, lighter acc's like the water
pump. Given the limited number of cars built, I would think that they would
have identical components whereever possible.

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

From: "Doug Sackinger" <DOUG@KIWI.IUPUI.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 18 Apr 1995 14:56:50 EST
Subject:       another LR movie

Saw this on local broadcast TV here last summer

White Hunter - Black Heart  ( 1984? )

Clint Eastwood is a gonzo movie director (perhaps loosely based on 
John Huston (?)) that is hell bent on killing an elephant, the 
shooting of the film being just a vehicle to get him to Africa and 
into a a variety of LR's - mostly LWB as I recall, one w/o top or 
windscreen..........also series stationwagon to cart around "stars".
Wish I could tell you more, but the LR's were the best thing about 
it.

Is tranmission a bit spotty lately for the digest ?
Or is it me ?

Doug

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 95 09:34:08 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Bleedin' brakes !

In message <199504141735.SAA00170@chunnel.uk.stratus.com> Chris Pitts writes:
: 
: To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
: 
: OK....I give up.
: 
: HOW DO YOU BLEED THE BRAKES ON A LANDIE WITHOUT GOING INSANE ?
: 
: I've got a LWB SIII, and I've just changed one of the rear brake cylinders.
: I have now pumped around 2 litres of brake fluid through the system, tried
: an Easibleed (couldn't get it to seal), jacked up the back by aound 1.5
: feet, had a friend of mine actually stamp on the pedal, sworn at it, kicked
: it AND THERE IS STILL AIR LEFT IN THE SYSTEM !

Chris,
1. You probably were using too much air pressure on the EZbleed (I assumed you 
had the seals in place).  You want to bleed the tyre you are using to pressure 
the EZ bleed down to less than 15 pounds.  About 10 pounds pressure works best 
for me.

2. You can always take the LR to a garage and have them do a powerbleed with 
their equipment.  There is one near my house that has a SNAP-ON version that is 
much better built that an EZbleed but also a lot more expensive.  

On the positive side is that you have cleaned out your hydrolic system

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

Subject: Pacific Northwest Team Trophy Challenge
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 09:56:33 -0700
From: Mike Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

An invitation to all of you who are up for it.

The 1st Annual Pacific Northwest Team Trophy Challenge 
	      May 20th and 21st, 1995. 

	Two Days - Two 4x4's - Forty Teams

Test your off road skills in a competetive event against others. 
This two day "Team" event should give you a chance to see how well
prepared both you and your 4x4's are.

Day 1- Teams will be departing at intervals immediately following 
the 9:00 AM drivers meeting. Order of departure will be determined
by a drawing of pre-registered entries on the day before. All
late entries will follow in the order of receipt.
	You will be require to complete two, appoximately 40 mile
courses, within a twelve hour period. Each course will have a
variety of tasks to perform along the way. You will encounter
vehicle obstacle courses, possibly a balance, or Trials section,
or winching situation where only one winch can be used for both
vehicles. You need to be able to read a Topo map and compass. At
times, the passenger/navigator may be required to follow a short
map-compass route on foot and meet back up down the road. This
first days event will be the most challenging terrain wise. If
the rain visits, you will be winching more than once.

Day 2- Time Distance Ralley with Tulip style orienteering chart.
This course will be challenging in other ways. Teams will leave
at intervals as determined by random drawing. Following the route
chart, you will follow an unmarked course, trying to maintain set
speeds between checkpoints.
	The winning team will have the best combined score from
both days activities. Even if you are not the competitive type,
this would be a great opportunity to test your skills in a
variety of conditions and activities.

- ----NOTE------

This is a limited entry event. We will be accepting a maximum of
only forty teams of two vehicles each. Each vehicle will be
require to pass a minimum inspection and safety requirements
outlined below.

What is a Team?

A team will consist of Two vehicles which shall have a driver for
each and at least one navigator, but no more than four people
total for the two vehicles.

Vehicle Requirements

- --All entries are to be street legal and licensed in their
  respective states. ORV stickers will be needed where applicable.
- --All vehicles must carry road legal liability insurance.
- --Hard tops or roll bars are required
- --One vehicle must have a working winch with the cable in good
  condition
- --All vehicles must carry a fire extinguisher, shovel, and axe.
- --Our safety inspectors will have final say as to vehicle
elegibility
- --Although we have no size restrictions at this time, keep in
mind that some places are very tight. You will be routed around
some places if you have a full sized truck or other.

Where to go

Go east on hwy 26 out of Portland, Or., and take the hwy 6 exit
towards Tillamook. The Campground is 3/4 mile west of Lee's Camp,
on the right. The only facilities at camp will be port-a-potties.
Gas is available 10 miles back at the BP station you passed or
down the road in Tillamook.

Deadlines 

Entry forms received before May 13th are $50.00 per vehicle.
After that date, please do not mail. Day of event registration
$60.00, if we have not reached our limit of forty teams. Refunds
will be given up to May 13th.

What do you get!

Hopefully, one fantastic weekend. As a minimum, we will provide a
great lunch on Sunday, while we tabulate scores, a Dash Plaque,
and a chance to do some top notch off roading. Great prizes will
be awarded to the top finishers.

If you would like to participate, email me direct for an entry
form. This is your chance to prove that Land Rovers are the
supreme 4wd vehicle.

rgds
Mike Fredette
D90, Portland, Or.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Apr 95 10:33:55 CDT
From: "Edward Hoffman" <elhoffm@sandia.gov>
Subject: Re: Disco transmission & other problems

I have not seen any responses to this post. I am new to this mail group, and
am very interested in other experiences some of you may have had with the
Discovery. I am considering purchasing a '95 US model. Are they generally
reliable? Is this just an isolated case? Thanks in advance.

Ed Hoffman
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Hi all
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 61 lines)]
>                             WWW:http://www.paisley.ac.uk/~spd/paddy.html
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                                   Edward L. Hoffman
     _/_/_/  _/    _/  _/         SANDIA NATIONAL LABORATORIES     _/_/_/
   _/       _/_/  _/  _/         P.O. Box 5800                      _/_/
  _/_/_/   _/ _/ _/  _/         Albuquerque, NM 87185-0443     _/_/_/_/_/_/
       /  _/  _/_/  _/         Voice: (505)844-5756           _/  _/_/  _/
_/_/_/   _/    _/  _/_/_/_/   Fax: (505)844-9297             _/  _/_/  _/
                             E-Mail: elhoffm@sandia.gov        _/_/_/

------------------------------

From: Guy Arnold <GUY@facade.adm.clarkson.edu>
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 08:39:51 EDT
Subject: Where is the List?

What happenned to the List? I have not received the List since last 
Thursday, April 13. Was there a major crash in the system or is just 
me? I can't get the day going without my List? It is better than a 
second cup of coffee.

------------------------------

From: "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 11:12:09 +0100
Subject: Re: Oil Cooling...

Charlie says about oil cooled engines:

>If this is viable, why doesn't anyone do it?  I can't be the first person
>to think about trying.

Well, no you're not.  Any "air cooled" VW relies heavily on the flow
of oil to properly maintian the cooling function.
--

Best Regards,
Steve.

------------------------------

From: "Rostykus, John" <john@mailgwy.Data-IO.COM>
Subject: For Sale: 1981 2-dr Range Rover
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 95 07:54:00 PDT

I'm posting this for a neighbor, down the street:  Here's your chance to own 
the real 'classic' Range Rover:

1981 white 2-door Range Rover
127K miles
Velour interior
Body straight
no rust (especially chassis)
Lamp guards
$10,000 or offer

For more info, contact the owner, Fred at (206) 392-2747 (PST) or me: 
john@data-io.com.  I do not represent Fred or his vehicle, I'm just helping 
him get the word out.  Your best bet is to contact him directly, but if you 
send me e-mail, I will pass it on to him.

Rosty
john@data-io.com

------------------------------

Date: 17 Apr 1995 10:59:32 U
From: "Guzelis.Pete" <guzelis.pete@ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: Disco winches

Anyone know Internet address for Rovers North?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 1995 10:25:28 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool)
Subject: Winch Break-in

Fellow LROs,

I have a little experience to share.  It's about breaking in a winch.

I had just installed a brand new Tensen 12,000# electric winch on my Series
III 88" Land-Rover (yes, brand new, despite the fact that they have been out
of production for several years, now redesigned, back in production, and now
called Megawinch).  The instructions with the winch explained a break-in
procedure that was recommended for improved performance.  It did not say
that such a procedure was essential or why it was recommended.  The
procedure involved a series of gradually more strenuous pulls, leading,
ultimately, to skidding the vehicle across dry pavement for a distance.

I had indeed intended to follow the recommended procedure.  I would have had
plenty of time to do so before The Prince of Insufficient Light's Mendocino
Forest Rallye on 28th April.  And I had no plans to have need for the
winch's capabilities before that run.  But, ah, the best laid plans...  

Saturday evening, when it was still quite light out, I had kicked off my
shoes and sat down to relax for the evening.  There was a knock on the door.
Melanie, my wife, went to the door.  Is Bennett (our 18-year-old son) Home?
No. Is his Dad home?  Yes.  Can we talk to him?  Sure.  

The long and short of it was that a yahoo friend of my son's, from up the
road, had just bought a Blazer and proceeded to christen it by letting
another yahoo friend get it well and truly stuck, nearby. This Blazer was
the full-size variety, about 10 years old or so.  It was jacked with about
an 8" lift and was adorned with very fancy mag wheels (despite the scroungy
bodywork) shod with huge mudder tires (maybe 40-44" o.d.).  They had tried
to cross a grassy field, between a dirt road and a driveway.  The front
drive on the Blazer is currently non-functional.  Just of its own weight,
this beast would have easily gotten stuck just by parking it on this soggy
ground, shown by the foot or so depth to which the front tires had managed
to get mired.  The driven rears tires, of course, were sunk in much deeper,
about two feet and change, maybe two and a half, as the axle was really sunk
down too.  

I wanted to try to pull it out with a strap before I unwound my
not-yet-broken-in winch cable.  No, they said, no use trying that!  They had
been trying for eight hours to get it out and had had several big trucks try
to pull it out, all to no avail.  No chance that my light-weight vehicle
would have any effect.  I knew that.  But I didn't want it to be that way.
O.K.  We chained the back of my Land-Rover to a tree that was across the
dirt road from where the Blazer was stuck and spooled out my winch cable to
the Blazer.  No chance of moving the Land-Rover very far from the Blazer to
allow me to have most of the cable played out--the recommended situation for
difficult pulls--and so had to just DO IT.

As soon as I started reeling in the cable, it started sucking down, into the
lower layers of cable wrapped on the drum.  This, despite the fact that,
when I had first wound the winch cable onto the drum, I had layed it on in
neat, tight, evenly-wrapped layers.  Damme!!  I hated to see this but what
was I to do, at this point?  I let it go and continued to pull.  My winch
has a two-speed gearbox, with a 6,000# pull rating at high speed and 12,000#
at low speed.   Of course, in this situation, I used the low speed.  The
line pull speed is very slow, even on the outer layers of the drum.  I
suppose that the pull rating at the outer layer is probably more like 9,000#
but still an impressive rating.  But this beast was well and truly stuck and
pulled my winch motor down nearly to stalling several times.  And of course
the Blazer was being "driven" too, with spinning rear tires trying to help
with the pull.

We got the Blazer unstuck.  I then moved my Land-Rover to a location where
we could reel out all the cable, to survey the damage and rewind it
properly.  Shit!!  Where the cable had sucked into the lower layers, some
rather nasty kinks were put into my brand-new cable.  I'm going to have to
unwind it again and lay those kinks on an anvil and try to pound them out
with a hammer, unless someone knows a better way to remove them.

What did I learn?  Well, I think now I understand part of the purpose of the
break-in, to stretch the cable gradually and to reel it in under gradually
increasing strain for truly tight and even wraps.  And I see, too, that the
recommendation for using the winch with most of the cable played out has
more than one purpose, to maximize pulling power, to be sure, but also to
minimize abuse of the cable.

What else?  Well, looking back, I think maybe it would have been much better
to be less concerned with angle of pull than to get far enough away to get
more of the cable out.  Or we could have used a snatch block to change the
pull angle. But the tree to which we would have to have connected the snatch
block would not have been stout enough; we'd most likely have uprooted it.
And we had no snatch block available, in any case (I think I'd better get one).

Any comments?  I posted this story both to share what I have learned and to
expose what I have not learned.  I know that there are LROs out there who've
had a lot more winching experience than I have.  Please, do tell me what I
missed.  

Thanks in advance,

Granville Pool
Redwood Valley, CA USA

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