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1 Mark Perry [rxq281@freen34steering relay, inter alia
2 dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu35Re: steering relay,
3 "Steve Methley" [sgm@hpl62Re: LR110 V8 timing
4 Charlie Wright [cw117@mo20Re: econo rovers


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Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 02:36:05 -0500 (CDT)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: steering relay, inter alia

1. I was refreshing the oils on my 66 IIA, and after topping up the
steering box (it leaks) figured it was time, after a year of ownership, to
top up the steering relay, which service schedule says should be done. My
relay does not have the <early> filler plug screw on the side, but I am
skeptical that any of of the four little retainer bolts (p/n 544337) -
especially the awkard-to-get-at one under the pitman arm - is the filler
plug.  What's more, the bolt heads seem an odd size, and I don't want to
mess about with them until I am sure I need to. So, even with a tiny
little oil can with a flexible nozzle, how do I get the Hypoy C into the
dang relay? What am I missing here? 

2. Movie buffs: Further to the The Passenger. The featured LR is
well-displayed in the title and opening scenes. It's a Ser.III 109 SW,
which the Jack Nicholson character, because of dramatic necessity, poor
driving and apparent ignorance of four-wheel-drive,low range and any
recovery techniques apart from shovelling in vain, gets well and truly 
stuck in sand and abandons. It
reappears briefly with another SW in a flashback. It is festooned with
jerry cans, but no spare tire is evident. As a bonus later in this most
intriguing movie, there's a street scene in which a military Ser.1 86" 
appears then passes by just as the driver makes a rough double-declutch
shift-up.

Regards, 

.Mark Perry
 Winnipeg, Manitoba
 Canada R3J 2G3
'66 Ser.IIA 88"

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From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: steering relay, 
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 18:37:23 +0930 (CST)

Mark writes:

>I am skeptical that any of of the four little retainer bolts (p/n 544337) -
> especially the awkard-to-get-at one under the pitman arm - is the filler

As I recall any/all of the bolts can be the filler.

> plug.  What's more, the bolt heads seem an odd size, and I don't want to
> mess about with them until I am sure I need to.

Uuumm.  I think they are 2BA. ISTR thats why I've got a 2BA spanner, if I can
ever find the damn thing. 

> So, even with a tiny little oil can with a flexible nozzle, how do I get
> the Hypoy C into the dang relay?

Ah...  VERY slowly, this is a really frustrating job (which is why I havent
done mine in ?? years)  Someone recently posted a nice summary of the best
way to do this, anyone got a copy still ?

> What am I missing here? 

All the fun :-)

cheers and best of luck

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

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From: "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 11:30:04 +0100
Subject: Re: LR110 V8 timing

Hi Gawie,

>Good morning Steve

Good afternoon!

>By doing my homework I have partly solved my problem.

>I do not have FI
>The CR is 8.13:1 or 8.25:1 (2 books / 2 answers)

>Electronic Ignition - Yes
>Carbs - Twin S.U.

>Manual says 6deg BTDC at 750rpm with vacuum pipe connected using 90
>min octane fuel.

Well it sounds as if you have a single vacuum pipe (correct?), in which
case it will be an advance pipe and 6 deg BTDC is spot on for normal
fuel in the V8.  (Just FYI the other pipe as fitted to my V8 is a
retard and drags the timing back to 6ATDC at idle only for emissions
reasons.)  Your full advance will be due to the centrifugal weights
only and will max out at ~28 degrees.

Sorry I can't tell you about high altitude running, as I'm from the UK!

>Last question. Where do you suggest I look for the timing marks. Or
>maybe somebody can give us a Step by Step guide to setting the timing
>on a LR.

There is a timing pointer attached to the block which points at
numbers from 10ATDC to 10BTDC stamped onto the crank pulley.  You'll
need to highlight the pointer and the 6 deg line with Tippex or
similar white marker.  You can see them from above.  Then loosen the
distributor bolt just enough to be able to twist it (you'll have to be
creative when finding a spanner to fit in the available space) and
time with strobe off #1, ie left bank as you sit in the car, front
plug.

The little hex adjuster on the mechanical distributor is for dwell
setting, you won't have this on yours of course.  I mention this
because it's sometimes mistaken for fine timing control (as on MGB's I
believe).

You'll need the carbs to be in reasonable balance to get the 750rpm
idle smoothly.  They sould be fine tuned last of all however.  Don't
bother trying to adjust anything at all unless you are sure your HT
system including plugs are in tip top order.

>I am reposting this to the list as I think the answers could be of
>value to other novives like myself.

Hope this helps,
--
Best Regards,
Steve.  79RR

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Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 12:14:11 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: econo rovers

On Tue, 11 Apr 1995 Solihul@aol.com wrote:

 but I for one would sure like to see a simpler Discovery:vinyl seats, rubber
 on the floor, and, dare I wish it, tdi power? There *are* some of us who
 would actually work the vehicles, like the rest...

Not a problem in UK.  Tdi's abound and there is the Discovery Commercial 
with no rear side windows (solid sides).  You could look at importing 
one... I guess... but you might be better off buying the NA version with 
air and leather and stripping it down... financially.

'spect you could convert a beat-up  Discovery V8 with a Perkins Phaser or 
similar turbo diesel if you were serious about a working motor.

Charlie

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From: i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 95 12:13:23 BST
Subject: Mirrors and Beds



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