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Date: Mon, 27 Mar 1995 22:46:49 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Advice please: Storing a LR

>            I would really appreciate your advice on what I need to do in
> storing my great 95 Discovery for 2 yrs. I will be relocating to another

I would be more than happy to fly down to TX and take care of the whole 
matter for you.  Just leave me the keys and make sure it's got a full tank 
of gas...

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         When you own a Land Rover, 
sinasohn@crl.com                         You have friends you've never met.
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Mar 1995 22:47:24 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Series Wipers (was: LEGAL ROVERS)

>       - gotten bored with, or shocked at the replacement cost of the dual
>         wiper motors and swipped one out of a Mini, MBG, or some other
>         Brit vehicle, with correct feed, changed over to the single
>         motor (Dual Speed maybe!) wiper arrangement?

Huh?  Sounds like a *great* idea!  Do you have more details, perchance?  
Thanks in advance!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE
Subject: new to the list
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 09:23:52 +0200 (MET DST)

Hello allHello all,
beeing new to this list, I want to introduce myselve a bit.

My name is Franz Parzefall and I live in Rosenheim (southern Germany).
I'm not owning a Landrover yet, but I'm planing to buy a D90/110 or a bit
older version (I'm not sure yet) later this year. I think the LRs are reliable
cars and what I like most is that alu wont rust (spent several week on my
FIAT :-(  ).
I hacked around in those two www-sites about LRs, but it would be nice 
if anyone could give me some more information about LRs, as
-gas milage of the different modells/engines
-anything about the TDI engine
-common problems
-where I have to pay attention when buying an used car
-resonable prices for used LRs
-and all you think I should know

Thanks
Franz

---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall     fparzefa@physik.tu-muenchen.de     
---------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 00:21:44 -0800
From: Kathryn Krages <krages@ohsu.edu>
Subject:  The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest -Reply

I will be out of the office from Saturday, March 25th through Tuesday,
April 4th and will read my E-mail messages when I return.   --Kathryn

------------------------------

From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 03:23:50 -0500
Subject: Re: #1(2) The Land Rover Owne...

Frank:
What part of South Carolina?   I'm in Monroe  NC.......About 20 miles from
some of the northern parts of SC.    Glad to have another owner in the area.
  
Cordially:  
Rick Crider   <rickcrider@aol.com>    Monroe  NC

------------------------------

Subject: various (forwarded)
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 04:01:22 -0500
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

------- Forwarded Message

 Date: 27 Mar 95 18:01:07 EST
 From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
 Message-ID: <950327230107_75473.3572_FHQ64-2@CompuServe.COM>

 Just seen my first RR for 10 weeks.
 I have just been to look at an 89 RR, auto, leather seats aircon etc etc, 63000
miles, beautiful red colour, generally in good condition for year, there is some
surface rust on parts of the frame, and the inner wings, but for year it is
good, there are stone chips on the hood and a few small dings in a couple of
panels, but as I said good for year, They are asking $17000 for it but are
likely to drop a couple on that, maybe a little more say 2 1/2. It is just a bit
more than I am able to spend at the moment, particularly with 7 % sales tax
added.   It does not show signs of the buffalo winters.  Pauline wantys a house
!!
   If anyone is interested call me, my number is 716 438 0890 home and 716 439
2848 work

 Hamish writes about swivel problem.
    I guess that when you fitted the new swivel you did not adjust the swivel
housing to centralise it, There are shims which fit between the top and bottom
swivel pins and the housing, if it is leaking from the bottom it is likely that
you may need to move a few shims from the bottom to the top to centralise the
housing..

             Regards  Bill Leacock  Sad Limey in exile (  now I know that I
can't afford a RR here )

 -end-

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 04:26:14 -0500
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>
Subject: if you read the digest

particularly those lines at the top
 you would know that you ought to send subscribe/unsubscribe reqeusts to
	MAJORDOMO@team.net

AND NOT TO THE LIST.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 08:12:45 EST
From: "Lapa, Hank" <hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com>
Subject: Storing a L-R

     Jokes aside, you should FILL the gas tank, adding stabilizer if you 
     want to use the fuel later, or if no stabilizer is added, drain and 
     refuel upon return to the road.  Flush and refill radiator with 
     straight coolant, running vehicle to circulate it for a minute.  Go 
     back to water/coolant mixture when you come back.  
     
     Similarly, I'd probably overfill all the gearboxes, diffs, etc., to 
     try and displace all the air in these places, making sure to lower 
     those levels to their proper state before driving.
     
     Also, do not use dessicant bags unless they are going to be regularly 
     replaced.  Once full of water, they will then create humidity in the 
     area they are located rather than reduce it.
     
     Make sure there is no dirt stuck on anywhere to retain moisture.  
     
     Jackstands are cheap.  If the vehicle is not going to be moved, put it 
     on stands so that the wheels are supporting their own weight but not 
     the weight of the vehicle.  
     
     Tape over those places which might allow entry of wasps, bees, or 
     other critters.  I don't think that archival linen tape (available in 
     art supply shops) will stick effectively to paint, glass, etc., but it 
     might be worth a try.  Use a tape whose adhesive won't dry out.  
     Later, use road tar remover to take off tape residue.  
     
     OK, maybe that's pretty close to being a MILSPEC preservation, but 
     reasonably doable.  Anyone have reason to believe any of thes ideas 
     are bad?  They're all off the top of my head, and I don't want to 
     steer anyong wrong.
     
     Hank

------------------------------

From: Trinitee@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 08:41:22 -0500
Subject: Disco Storing Advice

Well well !!!
             Thanks a lot to you Roving comedians I got a lot of jokes about
storing my Disco and not one real tip from y'all. But that's ok  I can handle
it cause....I'm a TROOPER..HA HA HA!! Keep smilin' y'all.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 07:47:04 -0600 (MDT)
From: Mike Slade <SLCN3@cc.usu.edu>
Subject: IIa engine stalling

Hello everyone

lately my 66 IIa has been stalling after I've washed it at the carwash (no,
it's not for looks, just to get the mud off the frame).

anyhow, I must be really spraying the engine hard, not intentionally however,
because when I go to restart the engine it won't start.  I check the cap,
rotor, sparkplugs, coil, and anything else that might be wet I go and dry it
out with a clean rag.  After putting it all back together I go to start and,
nothing.  

It seems that I have to just leave the hood up and let her dry out.  This can
be very annoying as last night I was stranded up in the mountains of Utah in a
spring snowstorm trying to keep a friend of mine from killing me and
bad-mouthing the Rover.  It did dry out ultimately, and we did get home, but
wetter and colder than we had anticipated.

Any guesses?  Someone suggested that I might be getting water in the
carburettor through the air filter?  I'm using the standard oil bath filter and
it has been recently cleaned and refilled.  The hose looks good and it doesn't
seem tha any water could get in there.

Anyway, I'm stumped and could use any advice/suggestions.

Thanks,

Michael Slade

"Land-Rover, what else is there?"  Ray Maliotzzi of 'Click and Clack'

------------------------------

From: "David McKain" <MCKAIN@faculty.coe.wvu.edu>
Date:          Tue, 28 Mar 1995 10:08:23 EDT
Subject:       Gearbox Problem

Greetings,
I just thought I might bounce this problem around to see if anyone 
has any recommendations. When I first purchased my LR ('66 SIIa) and 
drove it down from Pittsburgh to Morgantown, WV, I noticed that when 
engine braking in 3rd gear that the gearbox would "walk" out of 3rd 
and into neutral. While perfoming restoration work on the vehicle, I 
removed the gearbox and overhauled it with the help of a couple 
friends. As one suspected, the bushing for 3rd had broken. After 
replacing the bushing, reassembling the gearbox, reinstalling it in 
the LR and driving the vehicle, the problem did not go away. I hope 
that the problem does not involve pulling the gearbox again (and 
floorboards, seatbase, etc.....). Has anyone else run into this 
problem and, if so, do you have any ideas on what is causing the 
problem and how to fix it. 

Thanks,

David McKain
1966 SIIa Petrol
mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu
(304) 599-0120
Morgantown, WV
USA                     

------------------------------

From: JFisk1120@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 10:43:28 -0500
Subject: The Big Time

If you watched the 67th Annual Academy Awards last night, they were showing a
movie clip from "The Passenger" (I think that's what it was) and it had an
older 109" in it.  I have been a die-hard Oscar fan for many years, and I
don't recall seeing a Rover before during the telecast!

Come on guys....isn't this even bigger than that old Super Bowl?

Jan Fisk
Springfield, Missouri

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 10:36:17 EST
From: "Lapa, Hank" <hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com>
Subject: Re: IIa engine stalling

     Michael,
     
     I get the same reaction to the car wash from my 1960 Ser II.  I have a 
     Weber 2-bbl with a cartridge filter, so I may actually be getting some 
     water in.  In fact, after the first timethis happened, I left the 
     engine running during the wash, but it promptly died out as warm soapy 
     water started covering the car.  I guess I've never considered it a 
     big problem compared to some other likely nuisances.
     
     Hank

> Subject: IIa engine stalling
> Author:  Mike Slade <SLCN3@cc.usu.edu> at Zeus
> From: Mike Slade <SLCN3@cc.usu.edu>
> Subject: IIa engine stalling

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 56 lines)]
> Michael Slade
> "Land-Rover, what else is there?"  Ray Maliotzzi of 'Click and Clack'

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 08:28:35 -0800 (PST)
From: "Neil E. Villacorta" <fm00vill@ucsbuxa.ucsb.edu>
Subject: BMW engines in D'90

If I remember correctly, the current issue of the "Roundel" published by
the BMW Car Club of America stated that it would be at least 2-3 years
before we start seeing BMW engines in Rover products due to the following:

a) engine must meet Rover's off-road requirments
   (e.g. engine must operate at some defined angles without oil starvation)

b) engine must meet Rover's temperature requirements;

c) engine must be actually road-tested x-amt. of miles and hours;

so although technically the BMW engines might have the torque & HP, they
haven't passed Rover's quality assurance test yet.

BMW will undoubtedly have to do some design changes too.

:-) neil
UC Santa Barbara	

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 10:37:57 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Storing a L-R

Further to storing the Land Rover.  Visit a marine dealer and see if they 
can provide you with the plugs which replace the sparkplugs during winter 
storage of boat motors.  They seem to have a chamber with an oil or 
chemical which keeps rust from forming in the cylinder area.  I didn't do 
this on my old International and it took a bar on the flywheel to break 
the rings loose after only about 8 months in my garage after I honed the 
walls during a rebuild.  Granted your walls will have a bit more oil on 
them I suspect, but it can be a problem getting the first turn over and 
you don't want to break a ring. People who store up here in Manitoba let 
some air out of the tires and cover them to prevent UV from breaking the 
rubber down.  I understand it stops sidewall cracks.  Leaving a light 
coating of wax unbuffed on the pint job should keep surface rust off and 
up here we put a few mothballs in to keep rodents from using the seats as 
a home.  A big problem is using plastic covers that don't breath and 
letting it go all the way to the ground.  You need an air flow under the 
vehicle or moisture builds up and you have a greenhouse to speed up rot.  
Don't park it on grass.  The most frame damage we get in middle Canada is 
not likely from salt but from being left in a field where wet grass grows 
up under the vehicle and frame rot sets in.  Good farmers don't leave 
machinery in the field they put it in sheds with gravel floors and covers 
to keep snow off but they don't seal them up so moisture can eat them 
away.  So much for middle Canada 2 cents worth.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 10:49:49 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: IIa engine stalling

Try putting a rubber surgical glove over the distributor.  The five 
fingers make for four plug wires and the tower wire.  Once you get the 
wires through, tie them with the catgut string used for laceing up 
electrical harness or if you don't have that use good fishing line.  I 
have used a bicycle pump to dry inside the cap and that works.  Water in 
the sparkplug holes can short out the high-tension as well so blow them 
out.  The old rovers had an "O" ring type plug wire hood to prevent this 
water shorting but the new ones went cheap and we pay the price.  Make 
sure your coil is mounted with the tower pointing down.  It will fill 
with water and you can't see in there.  I have the water proof kit, but a 
condom e makes a good substitute and why pay about $45 for a condom and a 
rubber glove!  Another cheap trick is to get marine wire spray which 
insulates the plug wires from water shorts.  It is just silicone I think 
so if you want to go cheap try some tile silicone from the local hardware 
store.  It comes in pump bottles and is less expensive.  Shorting the 
capacitor that some Rovers have on the coil bracket will certainly kill 
your ignition.  Just some thoughts.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 09:29:35 -0800
From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (John Hess)
Subject: CA registration finished

For those of you who remember my discussions of registering my beast, the
process is now complete.  Yesterday I recieved my Ca state title,
registration card and license plates in the mail.  In three separate
envelopes.

So, it can be done.  California actually used the date of purchase as the
beginning of registration, so the big long delay didn't save me any money
by extending the registration date.  oh well, it's now legal. BTW, license
plate is 3LGA484.  Hopefully to be replaced by a new personalized one.  Ca
has this fund raising gimmick whereby you pay for special plates and the
money goes to some special project or group.  They have one that aids child
abuse or child social services.  With it you can get special symbols on
your plate  a heart (not anatomically correct)  a hand, a star, a couple
more.

My wife thought a capitol L followed by the hand symbol then ROVER would be
good This makes 7 spaces, which is perfect.

Cheers and happy friday,  tomorrow we investigate the mendocino national
forest and play in the mud.  I'm sure granville pool will be posting our
escapdes, so stay tuned.

Obviously, this didn't make it through.  We had quite a time on saturday,
fording a rain swollen creek and being turned back by impassable snow.
Bruce (last name unknown) showed us all what a d90 can do-  up snow covered
slopes over rocks and through (under?) a creek, nothing stopped it. Plus,
almost no water got in the door seals  when traversing the creek!  I do
believe it'll be worth digitizing some of the pictures from saturdays trip.

Happy tuesday,

John Hess, PhD                    Phone me 916 752 8420
Dept of Human Anatomy             FAX me (ask first or I may get in trouble)
University of Calif
Davis, CA                         Email me jfhess@ucdavis.edu

------------------------------

From: "Kerner, Robert" <FORK0@smtp.ais.ucla.edu>
Subject: Winch, springs, and alternator
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 09:32:00 PST

I really need to get a winch for my 1973 88.  What kind of advice do y'all
have.  I am not sure which is better electric or PTO.  Should I beef up the
front springs because of weight.  If so who's springs?  I do know that if I
go electric I should get a better alternator.  has ANYONE found a high
output alternator that goes in with minimal pains.  I kind of wanted the
alternator anyway because I am adding driving lights.  Is there anything
else I should consider like dual batteries and how should I manager that?
 Is a PTO better?

Rob Kerner
fork0@smtp.ais.ucla.edu
The Bruins in the FINAL FOUR!!!  Beat OK ST.

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 13:16:41 -0500
Subject: RR Shocks

Well, it's time to put new shocks on Annabelle ('89 RR).  What are the
alternatives to the factory replacements?  Atlantic British is hot to sell me
a whole handling package for $1,000 (all new springs, shocks, bushings, sway
bars, etc.), but that's pretty pricey.  What have ya'll had good luck with? -
Tony

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 10:32:03 PST
From: grea@virgo.net.gov.bc.ca (Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO Vanc.))
Subject: Power outage?

 SUBJECT: POWER OUTAGE: lro MAIL SERVER UNAVAILABLE MOST OF THIS WEEKEND.
  Date: Fri, 24 Mar 95 11:32:17 -0500
  From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

 ??? Lucas Makes EMail servers ???

.gordon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 10:47:20 PST
From: labranch@sybase.com (Jason LaBranch)
Subject: Re: Winch, springs, and alternator

> go electric I should get a better alternator.  has ANYONE found a high
> output alternator that goes in with minimal pains.  I kind of wanted the

Rob,

I have a delco-remy alternator put in my rover.  Use the same mounting
hard ware.  Get two sleeves that fit into each other to narrow down the
hole were the bolt goes through the alternator.  Get a double pully for
the Delco-Remy.  The outer pully should line up with the fan belt.
Walah!  You have a much cheaper and better alternator for your Rover.

                                   |
                                   |    <-------- Alternator (Delco-Remy)
                                   |
 __________________________________
       ---------------       _____________
      |               |     |             |   --------------- 
      |               |     |             |  |               |  -------------
      |               |     |             |  |_______________|  -------------
      |               |      -------------
       ---------------

        ^                    ^                 ^                 ^
        L Original Bolt      L Adaptor         L Adaptor         L Original
          sleeve for           bolt sleeve       bolt sleeve       bolt for
          Delco-Remy           number 1          number 2          Rover gen.

At a local hardware store I found two sleeves that fit perfectly into the
Delco-Remy to reduce the bolt sleeve to the Rover size.

  ---     ---     ---
 |   |   |   |   |   |
 |    ---     ---    -
 |                    |
 |                    |   <---------- Double pully to get for Delco-Remy
 |                    |
 |    ---     ---    -
 |   |   |   |   |   |
  ---     ---     ---

Have fun,
Jason LaBranch
1970 88"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 10:57:45 PST
From: labranch@sybase.com (Jason LaBranch)
Subject: Re: CA registration finished

> My wife thought a capitol L followed by the hand symbol then ROVER would be
> good This makes 7 spaces, which is perfect.

John, if someone has "L ROVER" then "L ROVER" will not be allowed because
                                      ^- hand symbol
those special characters do not actually count as part of the licence plate
number.  They are on the plate but not part of the number.  The only REALLY
valid characters are digits and letters.

> almost no water got in the door seals  when traversing the creek!  I do
> believe it'll be worth digitizing some of the pictures from saturdays trip.

I will be going down south to my parents-on-law's house on the weekend of
Easter.  They have a 600dpi color scanner and I will be scanning in all the
good pictures I took on the trip.  If anyone wants their pictures of the
Mendocino trip scanned in then get them to me before I go.  Please supply
me with a way to get them back to you.  Send a message to get my address.
Acctually I can probobly find a scanner here at work and get them scanned
in sooner than latter.  I will be picking up my pictures today at 4:00pm.

Jason LaBranch
1970 88"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 14:30:08 -0500 (EST)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: IIa engine stalling

MY, MY, MY, *****car wash******       Indeed a sacreligious pagan ritual.

Jon

------------------------------

From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 15:04:22 -0500
Subject: Re: U.K. off road schools

Mark writes:   I would like some input as to which would be 
                    the best off road school to attend in the U.K.

How about Pierre's school? I'm not sure what you will learn, 
but you won't ever forget it! <bg>

time for a quick dive in the bomb shelter!!!

Rgds...
Spenny

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 16:00:05 -0500
From: berg@acf2.NYU.EDU (Jeff Berg)
Subject: .gif's on the RoverWEB

This may not be of any major concern now that Taylor has decided not to go
for a Series Rover but...

A few weeks back there was discussion about tool boxes, roll bars,
specifically under a hard top, a view of the dashboard, and also about
mounting radios (CB & stereo).  Thanks to Ray Harder's efforts and patience
with my flakey file transfers via Eudora, pictures of all of the above are
now available on the RoverWeb page.

All these photos feature my vehicle and the way I've solved these problems.
I'm hoping to post some Mid-Atlantic Rally action photos, and one of a
friends Rover in Africa, soon.

Please let me know what you think.

Regards

JAB

==                                                                 ==
 Jeffrey A. Berg              Interactive Telecommunications Program
 Technical Administrator                         New York University
                          berg@acf2.nyu.edu
                          =================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life.
                      I can see it no other way.
                           --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)
==                                                                 ==

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: RR storeage
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 17:24:04 EST

Hank suggests:

>      Similarly, I'd probably overfill all the gearboxes, diffs, etc., to
>      try and displace all the air in these places, making sure to lower
>      those levels to their proper state before driving.

ah, maybe....just hope nobody comes along and drives it while you are away..
as for the petrol tank, if you do leave it filled, throw a good portion of
dry gas in there as well.  This will keep any moisture from settling out
and rusting the bottom of your tank....especially important if your storeage
spot isn't a dry one (and if this IS the case, I'd opt for the full tank and
not a drained one).

>      Jackstands are cheap.  If the vehicle is not going to be moved, put it
>      on stands so that the wheels are supporting their own weight but not
>      the weight of the vehicle.

Good call. Do it.

>      OK, maybe that's pretty close to being a MILSPEC preservation, but
>      reasonably doable.  Anyone have reason to believe any of thes ideas
>      are bad?  They're all off the top of my head, and I don't want to
>      steer anyong wrong.

Other suggestions:

Yank the battery, store it in a cool dry place, trickle it once in awhile.

If you've got a caretaker.....it'd be nice to turn the baby over once
in awhile (and they'd obviously have to put the battery back in for this).
Motors don't like to sit in the same spot for long periods of time....

Waxoyl the shit out of it.

rd/nigel

------------------------------

Date: 28 Mar 95 17:21:58 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: 89RR Radiator & water pump.

Hi Tony,

so you decided to check out your cooling system before it starts to disintegrate
like mine... good idea!

> While toring down the fan and belts, I've made an interesting discovery.  The radiator has a
> tiny leak from the top right corner.
...
> I need advice, should I attemp to have the radiator fixed, get a used one, or get a new one? (...snip...)

If the leak is a) tiny and b) at the top, then this does not have much effect
on the coolant circulation - it does account for loss of coolant, however, and
should be fixed ASAP. If the radiator as such is still in satifactory condition,
it's sufficient to have it welded. A *new* RR radiator is _very_ $$$, and I
wouldn't recommend to install a used one... If you have time and while you're
at it, take out the entire radiator (in case you haven't already) and look
through the laminations. Knock it on the ground *carefully*. If the bottom
third or half is rotten and you have rust and debris falling out, then I'm
afraid you'll have to bite the lemon and get a new one...

Re: Thread sealant, regular 'Loctite' is ok. Hylomar is also good, *but* it
has a lubricating effect when tightening the bolts and can lead to excessive
torque and bolts snapping off (very, VERY bad!). Tighten them evenly and
mildly. If you discover leaks lateron you can still tighten them a bit more,
but a bolt ripping off with the thread staying in the engine block means
*big trouble*.

> And, where is the thermostat located?

Hmm, one picture replaces a thousand words, doesn't it? Let's see if I can
explain correctly: First, take off the distributor cap and clear all ignition
cables out of the way - *mark the cables with respect to where they are plugged
in the distributor and the cylinders/sparks*... I've seen RR owners break down
in tears after hours of unsuccessfully trying to re-cable the ignition leads.
Then you still have a thick black cable trunk in front of you running over the
engine, usually encased in a sort of black plastic protective hose...
Carefully move this out of the way so you have free uninhibited access to the
front right-hand corner of the engine block. Now look where the _topmost_
cooling hose runs from the top right of the radiator to the engine block. 
You will notice that the hose is attached at the engine block to a sort of
'elbow' which is bolted to the engine with two bolts. The thermostat is located
between this elbow and the engine. If you remove the elbow and withdraw it
the thermostat is right before you and will virtually fall in your hands.
In order to access the lower left bolt of the water outlet elbow (the coolant
actually _leaves_ the engine at this point) it is advisable to also temporarily
remove the thermostat bypass hose which is located right next to the bolt head
and might make it awkward to reach with a spanner nut - it is a hose noticeably
thinner than the main cooling hoses.

Have fun, and don't forget to put everything back in place where it was...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: IIa engine stalling
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 17:26:05 EST

> lately my 66 IIa has been stalling after I've washed it at the carwash (no,
> it's not for looks, just to get the mud off the frame).
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Thanks,
> Michael Slade

Got spark?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 15:01:29 PST
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  Range Rover Sway?

The 93 models already have swaybars, so there's not much else you can add
except progressively using stiffer bushings, springs and shocks. If you
do that it ceases to be a Range Rover and your friend may be happier
with a BMW or a minivan, if off-road ability is not a priority.

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 15:18:06 PST
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  RR Shocks

I tried a steering damper from Atlantic British and it was much worse than 
the "worn out" one it was supposed to replace. Since then, I have stuck to 
genuine shocks. I've generally had good luck with Atlantic British, but that
was an exception (they took the part back without a murmer). They sell a shock kit
kit for about $250 (or thereabouts), which is cheaper than factory ones, but
I haven't tried them. Rovers North sells Bilstein shocks (probably as expensive as
as originals). West Coast British sell Rancho ones for RRs. 

As far as the Atlantic British handling package is concerned, it's not much
cheaper than the factory equivalent "upgrade" kit. If you want better road 
manners at the expense of some off-road degradation, those kits could be
worth a try. 

Personally, I go for the original parts which were designed as the best 
compromise at the time by the factory, and am dubious whether aftermarket
makers have done as much testing as the factory to make sure everything 
works together!

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 15:30:29 -0800
From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (John Hess)
Subject: wheels

Fellow land-rover owners

wheel questions:
Most pictures I see of land rovers show light colored wheels.  Is it a good
generalization that Land rovers (when new) came with white (or limestone?)
wheels?

Several of us on the left coast are thinking about 16" wheels for our 109s.
British Pacific has a good price but should I check with any other place?
I called Octopus in vancouver and for new, they want $75 us per wheel,  BP
is $56. Anyone know of 4, 8, 12 wheels available?

Thanks for the help.

John Hess, PhD                    Phone me 916 752 8420
Dept of Human Anatomy             FAX me (ask first or I may get in trouble)
University of Calif
Davis, CA                         Email me jfhess@ucdavis.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 15:30:32 PST
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: More thoughts on dividing or not dividing the list

I noticed another message or two recently on this, and it occurred to me
(though the point may have been made before) that any division along the 
lines of RR/Disco versus Series/Defender would suffer from the illogic
that Defender mechanicals have much more in common with RR and Discovery
(being, in fact, near identical in many respects) than with the Series
models. 

This intertwining of interests seems to me to be a reason to keep a single
list as long as the traffic is kept to manageable quantities.

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 16:42 MST
From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II)
Subject: Hello

Greetings,

I bought my first Land Rover on Sunday, and subscribed to this list
yesterday.  I was surprised to see the ad I responded to repeated in
my first digest:

>   From: Sekerere@aol.com
>   Date: Sun, 26 Mar 1995 15:08:18 -0500
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>   Subject: no messages
>   Three Land Rovers in the Phoenix paper today:
...
>   1972 Series III 88" safari top, has extra fuel tank in the back instead of
>   seats, current owner has had it since new in 1972, so he has complete records
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>   a new vehicle. He says the body has a few ripples, the chassis has paint
>   peeling, but no rust as this is an AZ vehicle. He wants $5500 for it. Call

The chassis didn't have paint peeling, but the body does.  Anyway,
there was absolutely no rust I could find anywhere, and it drove
great.  In fact, I had trouble finishing my drive, because I found it
so addicting!  

Since I live in Flagstaff, which is a two hour (probably three in the
L.R.) drive, I won't be able to pick it up until the weekend.

Until then, 

James Howard
Navy Prototype Optical Interferometer at Lowell Observatory
1400 W. Mars Hill Road
Flagstaff, AZ  86001

520-773-4868
520-779-9568 (fax)

jhoward@argus.lowell.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 15:54:12 PST
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: RR suspension kits

Does anyone know whether the air suspension is available yet as a retrofit
or some kind of aftermarket add-on?

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 16:12:43 PST
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Dents and scars

For all the folkjs who don't believe that RR owners are looney enough to
get their vehicles dented and scarred going off-road; my latest trip
to Death Valley last week resulted in another round of off-road injuries
to my long-suffering RR. I carelessly got stuck trying to get further
up Cottonwood Canyon than prudence would dictate when a torrent of water
was pouring down it. In the process of getting unstuck, I managed to
dent a quarter panel and inflict various underbody dings. my rather
ruthless attitude towards rocks during other parts of the trip left
a few other chips and dings in the wheels, and I managed to bang both 
diffs on a large rock concealed in a foot-high mound of gravel on the
side of the road as I pulled over to let a vehicle coming the other way pass.

Anyone interested in an 89 RR with 97,000 "freeway miles"? (just kidding).

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: 101FC twin point dizzy's??
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 10:50:37 +0930 (CST)

Ok all you 101 types, does your V8 have a twin point dizzy??.  If so is it
possible to get non-genuine points for them (brand+part no. would be nice)

Why do I ask???

"for sale ex-army spares; twin-point distributor suit cab-over Land-rover"

This has to be a 101 doesnt it???
  
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 20:51:49 -0500 (EST)
From: James Kirkpatrick - INEN/F94 <jkirkpat@acs.ryerson.ca>
Subject: RR & SerIIA

Thanks to all who suggested solutions for the RR sway.  Stiffer springs 
and bushing replacement won out.  Has any installed a aftermarket 
suspension upgrade before you see enough in LRO mag but I have never 
heard if their worth it.

In case anyone was curious the 2 109's in Toronto were sold along with 
another military truck (M??) for $3500.  A friend of mine had talked him 
down to $1000 for the 5-door with PTO but then thought about space for a 
frame over.  Anyway the guy still has a '70 IIA but it needs a new rear 
X-member. He's down to $1750 now but I bet he'll go lower.  Paul Burgess 
(905) 477-1328.

Jay Kirkpatrick
'55 Series I

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 20:57:31 -0500 (EST)
From: James Kirkpatrick - INEN/F94 <jkirkpat@acs.ryerson.ca>
Subject: Rims & Wiring?

Will 109' 16" rims fit on a Series I,  How much do used ones sell 
for in North America?

Does anyone have a spare wiring harness for a '55 Series I laying about 
they would part with?  I'm growing weary of carrying multiple fire 
extingushers! (Only Kidding!)

Jay Kirkpatrick
'55 Series I
'58 Series II
'69 Series IIA

------------------------------

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Rims & Wiring?
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 12:13:39 EST

> Will 109' 16" rims fit on a Series I,  How much do used ones sell 
> for in North America?

The 109" rims will only fit on the front axle, as the rear, the weight is 
actually taken on the hub, not the studs, and the hole for the hub on the 
series 1 is smaller, so if you put later model rims on you can end up 
shearing the studs off!

> Does anyone have a spare wiring harness for a '55 Series I laying about 
> they would part with?  I'm growing weary of carrying multiple fire 
> extingushers! (Only Kidding!)
none

If you can live with a mess, you should be able to rewire it your self, I 
did, and you can tell, wires going every where!
> Jay Kirkpatrick
> '55 Series I
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> '58 Series II
> '69 Series IIA

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |       My car is constipated,
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |       It has not passed a 
                                                |       thing all day!!

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Rims 
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 11:53:21 +0930 (CST)

Jay writes:
> Will 109' 16" rims fit on a Series I,  How much do used ones sell 
> for in North America?

Well I guess they would at least fit a series 1 109 :-)

Bill Leacock (sp) recently posted a brief summary of rim dimensions. 
Reading this I discovered that my '82 109 has infact pre-68 ('58!) 109 rims.
Whilst I dont know for certain I suspect that there would be no problem
fitting 5.5 x16 rims to a S1 provided the tyre sizes were kept "sensible"
After all the S1 109's had 750's didnt they?

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Rims 
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 12:40:21 EST

> Jay writes:
> > Will 109' 16" rims fit on a Series I,  How much do used ones sell 
> > for in North America?
> Well I guess they would at least fit a series 1 109 :-)
none

> Bill Leacock (sp) recently posted a brief summary of rim dimensions. 
> Reading this I discovered that my '82 109 has infact pre-68 ('58!) 109 rims.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> fitting 5.5 x16 rims to a S1 provided the tyre sizes were kept "sensible"
> After all the S1 109's had 750's didnt they?
The series 1 107" and 109"s came with 7.00's and the rear axle was set up 
so that the hub, and not the wheel studs, unless you have a late 1958 
model with a fully floating rear axle.

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |       My car is constipated,
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |       It has not passed a 
                                                |       thing all day!!

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 23:14:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Winch, springs, and alternator

Robert Kerner asks...

> I really need to get a winch for my 1973 88.  What kind of advice do y'all
> have.  I am not sure which is better electric or PTO.  Should I beef up
> the front springs because of weight.

You could probably get as many arguements on electric vs. PTO as you can on
Series vs. D90/Disco/RR...  

What type of winch you want depends on the type of winching you plan to do.
PTO winches are usually considered stronger and faster. They *are* heavy,
but you don't need to beef up your springs. You can usually put more cable
on a PTO winch drum than on most electric winches.
Electric winches are lighter and slower but they will pull you out if you
happen to stall the engine. They are good for occasional winching, but
nothing prolonged.. If you run them too hard, they can overheat which then
causes the winch motor to loose power. 

My SerIII had a Koenig PTO winch on it when I bought it. It didn't work
right and I traded it to Steve Denis for some stuff. He repaired it and I've
seen him turn his 109 around on a hill with it. The winch hardly noticed.
I replaced the Koenig with a Ramsey 8000 lb electric. It's pulled me out
more than once, pulled out Toyota's and Nissan's, moved assorted farm
machinery and logs when needed. I don't have any complaints with it.

As to alternator/battery.. you could run dual batteries and a high output
alternator.. I use only one battery and have a Delco alternator (60A, I
think..) never been a problem..

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------

From: sohearn@InterServ.Com
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 20:17:29 PST
Subject: D90 Wading Plugs

This is what I think is the case re wading plugs in US-spec 90's:

If you have the LT77S 5-spd (reverse to the left and forward)-

You probably have a drain plug (should be somewhere around the bottom
of the bellhousing.

If you have the R380 5-spd (reverse to the right and back)-

You have no drain plug. There is a slot cut into the bellhousing such
that a gap is left when the housing and front lower cover are attached.
At least that's what I remember from when I looked for it. Took me a
while to convince myself the plug wasn't there, especially when the
manual mentioned it. But then the manual talks about the LT77S too.
This gap is likely filled with a sealant that was zealously applied at
the factory, my was. Sheppard's "The Land Rover Experience" says all
R380 equipped vehciles leave the factory with a plug fitted but there's
nothing anywhere near the bottom of the bellhousing and there is the slot.

- Stephen

p.s. I might be wrong. It took me a long time to figure out what those
velcro closing pads were for. Anti-flapping padding for the safari cage
with soft top.

------------------------------

From: chris.youngson@deepcove.com
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 21:40:13 
Subject: RR STOREAGE

Just a note regarding LR storage. There is o product availible design
specifically for engine protection in long term storage. It is a foam that you
spray into the post air-filter intake while the engine is running. You continue
until the engine stops. This coats all the valves, piston crowns, cylinder
walls, etc. Good stuff. It's recommended by most serious car nuts. I don't have
the name off hand, but there may be several different types.
73 DE VE7CST

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 01:06:56 -0500
From: rparker@tiac.net (Randy Parker)
Subject: LRNA Internet domain name

I noticed that Land Rover North America just registered the domain name
LANDROVER.COM, so perhaps we will see a corporate presence on the 'Net from
them shortly???   Anyone know more?   No WWW server answers as of yet.

P.S.  To do domain name searches of your own, see this URL:
         gopher://rs.internic.net/7waissrc%3a/rs/whois.src

-----------------------------------------------------------------
-- Randy Parker, NoteSystems
   Internet:     rparker@tiac.net
   Compuserve:   75300,2654
   Web Page:     http://www.tiac.net/users/rparker/
------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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