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Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 11:21:46 +0200 (METDST)
From: S|ren Vels Christensen <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: Re: Range Rover ignition key

Transfer to Re: worshippers of the Prince of Darkness 
or          Re: Lucas Aglow
            

On Fri, 10 Mar 1995, Gerald L. Mandell wrote:

> The ignition key will not start the car "sometimes" unless I tap the brake
> pedal.This happens about half time.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> gerald mandell
> gm@galen.med.virginia.edu

When my silencer broke in two last autumn the brakelights went taking the
indicators with them. I fixed the exhaust and the engine ran fine and 
resonably silent. Then i fixed the electric and the front pipe went. When i
Gun-Gummed the front pipe i could turn the starter but there was no ignition.
Then i fixed the ignition and the hazard lights started to work. They 
didn't work when i got the car.

I haven't the foggiest idea what is going on. 

Try to ruin something and see if that solves the problem.

sv/aurens

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 13:32:26 +0001 (GMT)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Pressure in the cooling system.

I thought I'd run this through the 'net before I pull my head or start 
spending money on crack testing.

Engine: Recently rebuilt 2.25 diesel. Orig. c1971.

Problem: High pressure (not high temp) in cooling system.

Symptoms: -Well, high pressure after only minutes of running.
          -Pressure stays in system (even overnight to an extent).
          -Bubbles and foam (uh oh).

Possible diagnosis:

-Cracked head. We checked for this by eye on rebuild.  None evident. this 
problem was not severe (I only drove it for about a month) before the 
rebuild.

-Warped head. Does this happen in diesels? Ever?

-Leaking head gasket. New one (copper) installed with sealant.  
Re-torqued to spec. after a first run.

-Others?  Thermostat?  Unlikely? Hmmm

The odd things are that A) There is not any symptom of poor compression I 
would associate with a serious crack or exhaust gas leak, but it blows 
most of the water out after an hour or so... I just top it up regularly. 
and B) the pressure does not subside (the system is well sealed) after 
cooling.  Whatever the source of the pressure, it is a one-way leak... 
the coolant does not end up back in the pistons as I would expect from a 
serious crack/leak.

I have no experience with this problem on any other engine I've owned. 
Any experience or commentary would be appreciated.  I don't want to take 
the silly injection system off AGAIN.

Cheers,
Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 15:11:35 +0100
From: caloccia@team.net (Bill Caloccia)
Subject: Re: Disco Truths (was: Oracle Questions)

>re: traction control:
> ...  Traction control basically
>senses when a wheel is spinning and cuts the engine power.
        That's one way but not the only way...
>It's a big win
>for 2WD sedans and minivans but not much good if you have 4WD.

Beg to differ - the other way to use the 4ch/4wh ABS is to selectively
apply brakes to wheel(s) which are without traction...  In any real LR Trial
there will be a set of roller sections that you drive onto and prove
you can spin a wheel front and rear (that you haven't modified the
open diffs).

Not it isn't very day you drive onto a set of rollers, but it would
come in handy on ice.  My one test drive from FMW in a new rangie was
the day after this wicked NE ice storm (convient that, eh?)   I went
onto the side streets and tried to get it to kick the tail out or
go sideways on a hard stop or mash the pedal down start.  (Of course,
after stopping I even backed up to the start of the ice for a longer
run...)  Straight stops, straight starts on packed ice.

Maybe, if there's a winter out there next year one of the
rover-headus-sales-guys could find his way to one of the ice trials
with similar vehicle and show how it well works...

I'd say TC works pretty well...

--------------

Re: Pump Cavitation and Efficiency

>Pumps cavitate when pressure at the pump impeller surface decreases
>close the the surfaces of the pump.

One of the most striking after market differences I found was in a
NAPA water pump for a Honda.  The original had this multi-vained cast
impeller, which must have had 8 or 9 vanes and was closely matched to
the cavity in shape.  The replacement had a stamped steel impeller, with
some five or six vanes that were a lot 'looser' fit in the cavity.
---------------------------------------
Charlie Wright and others are on about
'worshippers of the Prince of Darkness'

>The wiring.  It may have been acceptable for its day, but it is neither
>well thought out nor safe nor robust.  I do think the BMW makes a fair
>comparison, as they are about the same age.  BMW managed to work both fuses
>and relays into the system

Who did your wiring ?  Vintage Land Rovers managed to work both fuses into
the system, you don't really have to worry about carring umpteem different
amperage spares either.  If anything below the belt line fails, just pull
35Amp fuse from the dome lamp and put it in the other fuse position.

>I'm sorry to be so unforgiving, but these 'modern devices' did exist c.
>1970, others managed to use them.

Yeah, but just try and find those 'modern devices' umpteen miles from
left of nowhere, in 1970 (or '60, or '50 - after all it isn't like your
old 2002 or Csi was designed in 1948).

Just pull that spare wiring from the dome lamp or other insignficant
electrical accessory (hmm heated seats ?, rear defroster ?  marker lamps ?,
oops, those are Bimer accessories), nearly all the electrical cord is the
same guage on rover - convient eh ?  [Though I did see one POW wiring job
where the chap _only_ had light green wire, but that's another story.
Taylor: beware of Rovers whos primary wiring consists of 'zip' cord (18 ga
houselamp wiring)]

Then patch it up and you're on your way.

>Land Rovers were designed for the tasks they do, and designed well, but
>Lucas is still not getting my vote for 'technical innovation' or safety in
>the near future.

        What was that tag line - Built to withstand the charge of the
        rhino and be fixed with a spanner and screwdriver...

Though I'm rather glad Rovers don't require any @!*& technologicly
'innovative' warning-lamp-reset-tools.

But as for 'technological innovation' in newer machines, how about the
Air Bag logic that detects the difference of an off-road bump and an
on-road one ?  How about using 4wh/4ch ABS to do traction control also ?

    Cheers,
        --bill  caloccia@Team.Net       caloccia@Stratus.Com

      1  3     dl OD  L           "Land Rover's first, becuase
      |--|--+  o  |   |            Land Rovers last."
      2  4  R     N   H           '72 Range Rover

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 12:27:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Range Rover ignition key

I have no idea if this is even remotely close to being an answer for you, but
cars (some Fords, I think) were manufactured with an ignition cut out that
prevented the car from being started unless the brake pedal was depressed.
 It all stemmed from an expensive law suit that Ford lost when a 3 year old,
left in the car in a supermarket parking lot, managed to trigger the
auto-door locks, start the car, and get the shift into reverse.  The little
tot spent close to 15 minutes carooming around the lot, powered by a high
idle, bashing everything in sight.  It was actually filmed by someone with
one of those ubiquitous camcorders, and made the evening news, not to mention
the court room.  I remember the frustration, a year or so later, trying to
start my Hertz-mobile, without a clue untill I coincidentally stepped on the
brake.

Now, Lucas style, instead of intermitant glitch in your starting electrics,
this may be an intermitent glitch in your safety system.  Chow.

------------------------------

From: RovingNut@aol.com
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 13:22:42 -0500
Subject: Swivels & Heat

I have a 1960 Ser. II 88" that has ittsy-bittsy drain holes on the bottom of
the swivel housings that don't allow that goopy crud/90w mixture to flow too
well. I've learned my lesson and am ordering some gaiters, but for now, does
anyone know of a way to expedite the draining process?

Also, I live in sunny California where a heater has the status of convenient
luxury. Next year, however, I'll be off to college in New Hampshire where it
acquires the status of bare necessity. Does anybody know of an alternative to
that cold-blooded little Smith's heater??? feel free to e-mail me.

                                    -Brad Davis
                                      a.k.a. Roving Nut
                                      RovingNut@aol.com]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 12:17:28 -0800
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Swivels & Heat

Brad Davis <RovingNut@aol.com> wrote:
>I have a 1960 Ser. II 88" that has ittsy-bittsy drain holes on the bottom of
>the swivel housings that don't allow that goopy crud/90w mixture to flow too
>well. I've learned my lesson and am ordering some gaiters, but for now, does
>anyone know of a way to expedite the draining process?

 Try sucking it out of the filler plug.  On my old Series III the "ittsy-bittsy
 drain" plug broke off (due to over torquing) leaving the shaft, I eventually
 had to get the thing reamed out by taking to the shop during an overhaul.
 What is the recommended torque for this plug anyway, about 15 ft.lbs.?

>Also, I live in sunny California where a heater has the status of convenient
>luxury. Next year, however, I'll be off to college in New Hampshire where it
>acquires the status of bare necessity. Does anybody know of an alternative to
>that cold-blooded little Smith's heater??? feel free to e-mail me.

 Try a Kodiak heater, popular in northern climates, and over course several
 layers of clothing, earmuffs, etc.

  Michael Carradine    Carradine Studios                   Tel.500-442-6500
  Architect            Architecture Development Planning   Pgr.510-945-5000
  NCARB RIBA           PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA           cs@crl.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 12:56:42 -0800
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Swivels & Heat

Brad Davis <RovingNut@aol.com> wrote:
>>I have a 1960 Ser. II 88" that has ittsy-bittsy drain holes....<snip>
>>anyone know of a way to expedite the draining process?

Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com> answered:
>Try sucking it out of the filler plug. 

 Seriously though, if you intend to put on gaitors anyway, all the 90W 
 is going to drain out if you loosen the seal to the swivel ball housing.
 This may or may not be recommended depending on the condition of the seal.
 The gaitors will be attached under the metal C-ring with 6 or so bolts
 that also holds the seal on.  Inplace installation of the gaitors is not
 exactly easy, you may consider doing it on the bench by unbolting the
 entire swivel ball, etc. (that is, if you can easily pop out the swivel
 joints to the steering linkage),  this would also allow you to clean up
 the ball real nicely and replace the seal (a low cost item).  Once the
 gaitors are on, you'll hardly ever see the swivel ball seals again to
 inspect their condition.

  Michael Carradine    Carradine Studios                   Tel.500-442-6500
  Architect            Architecture Development Planning   Pgr.510-945-5000
  NCARB RIBA           PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA           cs@crl.com

------------------------------

Subject: Land Rovers in Outbreak
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 13:47:05 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us>

     I went to see _Outbreak_ on friday night.  In the opening scenes you see
some mercenaries driving a topless 3 door (?) 109 driving away from the camera 
in the background.  I few minutes later they have a fuel air explosion and you
see the shock wave hit the side of a SII/SIIA Land Rover (the front of the LR
is facing the camera).  The nice thing is that the scene is 1967 and they 
actually had a period Land Rover.  Very  refreshing.   
      I found the rest of the movie entertaining and would watch it again.

-Benjamin Smith
----------------
 Science Applications Internation Corporation
 bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil
 1972 Land Rover Series III 88

------------------------------

Subject: stamps
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 17:51:14 -0500

went to the local stamp show today, finnally met the famous Bill 
McLellan, a big buddy of Dixons. Anyway I sat down at his stall (not 
knowing who he was ) and started to look for stamps.

He asked me what I was looking for, I said Land Rover stamps, he said I 
wouldnt find any as he was collecting them for himself. Anyway, turns out 
I have soem he doesnt have, a small victory for me!!

Anyone want to be put on a stamp bulletin list email me direct.

rgds

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Date: 12 Mar 95 20:07:00 EST
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: DRIVING AND MISC

Bill C.  A UK driving test is not like a NY state test, you are well advised to
go to a proffessional instructor for some instruction in how to pass the test,
in addition a good knowledge of the highway code ( rules of motoring and the
signs etc.) 
 When i took my test in the UK  25 +  years ago the duration was about 40 min.
this compares with the 6 min. it took for my NY state test 4 months ago, the
insurance company would not accept my UK license whilst the state would let me
use it until I become  resident. 30 years of motoring, in excess of half a
million miles driven in about 15 different countries and here I am classed  as a
novice. The standard of testing is much higher in europe than here, but then
again so is the density of cars and the speeds of travel.  Here the test
consisted of 6 rt turns at a 4 way, 2 l turns at a 4 way, s.o. at 4 way. No
speed limit of more than 30 mph, no traffic lights, no divided  highway, no hill
start, no  changing direction using forward and reverse gears, no parking etc,
 How many yanks know what a roundabout is, there is only one roundabout within
30 miles radius of here. the area could be much bigger.

Mark Talbot.  clutch bite ...  also check the two cross shaft pins in the clutch
mechanism, check by removal, these have a habit of shearing inside the shaft and
creating backlash in the movement, makes the clutch seem more like a switch.

 Rick
  fuel level indication,  Yes you can bend the arm or swap it for a diesel type
with the associated wiring. The level reading can also be adjusted at the rear
of the instument, there is a +\- screw.

  Overdrive whine, a common cause of gearbox whine after o/d fitting is the mesh
between the overdrive output gear and the transfer box intermediate gear, if
this ids the source it will whine in and out of overdrive, if it only whines in
overdrive then there are internal problems which you should report under your
warrranty.

 Regarding your oil pressure switch problem, check the wiring for an earth
fault, the pressure switch is simply a switch to earth, the light on indicates
that you have an earth circiut somewhere,  does the light illuminate when the
wire is not connected to the pressure switch.  Check that there  is not a
blockage in the switch port, ie  is there something preventing the pressure
reaching the switch to make it and thus turn off the light.

 Tom ... for the first couple of years ( 48/49) the 80" lr had permanent 4wd and
the front axle was fitted with constant velocity joints ( tracta type ) these
ran inside a spherical swivel housing similar to all the lr products. 

  Regards   Bill  Leacock    Limey in exile

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 20:13:17 -0500 (EST)
From: James Kirkpatrick - INEN/F94 <jkirkpat@acs.ryerson.ca>
Subject: Outbreak of Rovers

Last night I saw Outbreak, the new virus film.  

The opening scenes gave me a new idea on how to motivate my 69 IIA.  This 
may help anyone having any difficulties, electrics, drivetrain, or even 
the frame.

It may be easier to carry out this therapy at a drive in as most theatre 
managers frown on 90w dripping on the in-house seats.

The opening scene shows a modified 109 driving through a military camp, 
in time a bomber comes and drops "the most powerful non-nuclear weapon" 
on the camp.  In the second explosion scene the Land Rover is 
obliterated!!! 

In a calm voice explain to your dearest friend that an associate named 
Eddy could arrange the same fate if you do not get some co-operation. 
This with any luck will solve any misbehaving in the future.

Jay Kirkpatrick
'55 I
'58 II
'69 IIA

PS. After the scene, my girlfriend leaned over and pointed out that I 
would probably still buy it.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 20:22:13 -0500 (EST)
From: James Kirkpatrick - INEN/F94 <jkirkpat@acs.ryerson.ca>
Subject: 3 Series for sale

A gentleman I spoke to the other day has three series Rovers for sale.  
He receintly recovered from his 3rd heartattack and the doc said they got 
to go.  

1960 109" pickup $1500

1968 109" Station Wagon with a PTO, winch, Safari Roof, Warn Hubs $1500

1970 88"  Warn Hubs $2000

All are in need of frame work in the typical places but I have not 
personally seen any of them.
Please respond to him directly Paul Burgess (905) 477-1328 Toronto Canada.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 20:27:32 -0600
From: whitfiel@minet.gov.mb.ca (Greg Whitfield)
Subject: Hello from Winterpeg

The original was bounced

Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 06:44:06 -0600

I have been monitoring the LRO digest  for two months now  and  I have
found the info very interesting. I have owned a 1957 Series I 107 SW, than
a Series IIa 1967 2.25 109 SW Petrol and currently  a 1983 110 2 DR HT 2.25
(yes 2.25) Diesel 5 speed.  The "110" is the best of the bunch in my
opinion.  I still have a  capstan winch and fan belt for the Series I if
anyone is interested.  Also would anyone know of an oil filter adaptor
available for the 2.25 so as to use a spin on oil filter. 

Ross Baxter 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Greg Whitfield                                        (204) 669-1277   Voice
Bertrun E. Glavin School                              (204) 668-9361   FAX
Winnipeg, Manitoba
CANADA                                  EMAIL:
R2K 3L2                                 whitfiel@MINET.gov.MB.CA
whitfiel@MBnet.MB.CA                    Greg_Whitfield@RESD.Winnipeg.MB.CA
whitfiel@RESD.Winnipeg.MB.CA            
Greg_Whitfield@MINET.gov.MB.CA
                        "are we having fun yet?"
        http://resd.winnipeg.mb.ca/TEXT/STAFF/GregWhitfield
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 01:17:45 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: stamps

On Sun, 12 Mar 1995, Robin Craig wrote:

> Anyone want to be put on a stamp bulletin list email me direct.

	This months OVLR newsletter has an article by Bill on some LR 
	stamps with both Scott & SG numbers.  I'll have him churn out the rest
	of the know stamps with Scott & SG numbers for next month, 
	including those in your March LRO article on stamps.

	Rgds,

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 22:49:25 -0800
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Hello from Winterpeg

whitfiel@minet.gov.mb.ca (Greg Whitfield) wrote:

>Also would anyone know of an oil filter adaptor
>available for the 2.25 so as to use a spin on oil filter. 
>Ross Baxter 
none

 In the Fall/Winter 1992 Aluminum Workhorse Magazine, fellow LROA
 member Paul Socholotiuk, 461 Adelaide Street West, Toronto, Ontario,
 Canada is advertising a Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Kit for Land
 Rovers to fit all 2.25 liter engines and manufactured from HS heat
 treated aluminum alloy.  It uses common American filter elements,
 Fram PH8A, AC PF-2, Purolator PER-1, etc.  Paul is asking CDN$ 45.00
 post paid world wide.  Sorry I can't make out the postal code and
 there is no phone number given.  As this is a 1992 ad, the price
 most likely has risen.

  Michael Carradine    Carradine Studios                   Tel.500-442-6500
  Architect            Architecture Development Planning   Pgr.510-945-5000
  NCARB RIBA           PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA           cs@crl.com

------------------------------

From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: micro toy alert
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 00:05:10 -0700 (MST)

I just stumbled on Galoob "Micro Machines" in a local toy store.  There 
is no mention of scale, but they are something like HO.  The detail is 
impressive.  Most vehicles are in sets of 4 or 5.  Price per set is $5.00

Set #37 "Trail Trackers" includes a SIII 109" 2-door (green with soft
top).  The detail is fantastic, but the proportions are slightly off: 
windshield is a wee bit too vertical, and top seems a bit squashed.  (And
the tow hitch is as big as the wheels.) Length is 3 cm.  Altogether a
delightful little conversation piece.  The set also includes a Jeep and
Ford Explorer.  Copyright on this set is 1994.

Also of possible interest is set #5 "European Sport": 3 of the 5 models 
are Brit 1950s -- MG, Triumph, Jaguar.

T. F. Mills                                              tomills@du.edu
University of Denver Library  2150 E. Evans Ave.  Denver  CO 80208  USA
	      http://mercury.cair.du.edu/~tomills

------------------------------

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