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From: "Mr T.stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Maximum Braking
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 1995 09:55:52 +0000 (GMT)

It is interesting to note that the grip on wet tarmac of a modern tyre
is greater than that of a 1960's tyre on dry.
This is a bit academic I suppose if you are running on Firesone SATs
which have only a tiny area in contact with the road; this is balanced
however by the tyre roar which warns folk to move out of the way.
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(0475) 530581  Fax:(0475) 530601

------------------------------

Date: 25 Jan 95 09:40:55 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Overdrives - recommended use

I do feel I should reiterate on the subject of overdrives as I wouldn't want
any enthusiastic LR-newbies to become the early victims of misconceptions.
Other list members gave the impression that the OD was just a plain extension
of the regular gearbox and could be used whenever and whichever way, towing,
offroad, permanent ratio extension for high-torque engines (*gasp*) ...
I beg to differ - anyone who has ever taken apart and looked into the innards
of a Fairey OD and seen how extremely delicate and filigrane some of its
components are must realize that such brute treatment invites early and
costly trouble. This is backed up by experience: All overdrives brought to
our club workshop to be fixed were mashed and mangled beyond repair, and many
of them hadn't even clocked up 50,000 km yet. A main point to consider is
that spare parts for the overdrive, even simple bearings and gaskets, are
so ridiculously overpriced that any malfunction usually entails the purchase
of a complete new OD - in most cases it turns out cheaper than rebuilding it.
The OD has the potential to last almost as long as the gearbox itself, but
if you treat it the way some list members have suggested, the most you'll
get out of it will be 50-80,000 km. Given the retail price of the OD, this
is uneconomical in the extreme. And the OD, if it fails, conks out suddenly,
permanently and without warning. If you pay close attention you might notice
a sudden increase in drivetrain slack, or a pitched whine when under load,
but that's about all. Since the OD, even when not engaged, transfers
movement between gearbox and transfer case, if it fails you're stuck good
and left without traction.  If you want your OD to be around for a while I
strongly disadvise to use it for anything else than an extended 5th road gear.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 25 Jan 95 09:40:15 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Relays vs. OEM

> (...snip...snip...) This weekend, I plan to fit relays
> for both high and low beams, so that the dash switch will only have to
> handle a low amp load to the relays. (...snip...)

That's the way to go. On the 109, the 3-way switch almost melted, and I
used to have the tray full of fuses to change them 'on the fly' while
driving since they used to blow regularly. Switched all lights to 40-amp
relays, put 25-amp in-line fuses in the main battery circuit (battery-to-
relay), and never had a problem since. The horn is meanwhile also on relay -
it's LOUD !

<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 25 Jan 95 09:39:33 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: torsion bars on 87 RR; braindead EFi

> Does anyone out there have any info an adding torsion bars (some may call
> them anti-roll bars) front and rear to the 87 RR? I undersand they help the

A good set of torsion bars will improve on-road handling dramatically, you
can virtually zip around bends, *but*: The offroad articulation capabilities
of your RR will be reduced to that of a Chevy Camaro. We have one RR in
our club w/t-bars. When the wheels articulate crosswise, e.g. front left
and back right wheel simultaneously lifted fully upwards, the beast lowers
itself and sits flat on its belly like a big fat lizzard, looks hilarious.
If you're contemplating on going offroad a lot, forget about the t-bars
and take your time cornering, alternatively always keep a pack of sea-sick
pills on the dash tray...

> All that aside, i have a question. is the brain the lowest water-vulnerable
> component on the RR? If it is, can it be moved skyward to improve puddle power?

That is indeed a silly place to locate an electronic control unit on an
offroad vehicle. My personal solution (primarily intended to fend off Sahara
dust, but should also keep out water/mud): Carefully open the box, blow
out any dust/debris/dead insects, and seal off the whole unit with car body
sealant, Loctite, Hylomar or whatever, taking great care not to foul any
electronic components in the process, not forgetting the opening for the
wire harness, resp. multiconnect-plug. I would also provide an opening in
the top cover, normally kept plugged with a rubber stopper, to allow
condensation moisture to evaporate from time to time which is likely to
develop in a completely sealed unit.
Relocating the unit somewhere else *might* cause problems, as the electronic
signals returned by the multiple sensors to which the unit is connected must
be very precise and correctly calibrated for the injection logic to perform
properly.  Just lengthening the leads or inserting additional connectors
might already be enough to cause braindamage.  Maybe an electronics expert
(which I'm not) can tell you more...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jan 1995 10:34:15 -0500 (EST)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Re: Prince of Darkness (chapter 4)

Sorry if this is old news folks but I've just gotten back and have over 
600 messages!
the alternator wire and the feed for the ignition coil are hooked 
together on the back of the switch No? the alternator warning light 
voltage is enough to power the coil...she only stops when the magnitisim 
in the alternator dies and the unit goes completely dead.....put a diode 
in the feed for the alternator and all will be well...except for the oil 
leaks, of course.....

steve......

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
"        "-1957 107 Station Wagon          PO Box 61
"        "-1964 109 Pickup                 Erieville,New York USA
"        "_1967 109 NADA SW                13061

On Thu, 12 Jan 1995, Jimmy Patrick wrote:

> The saga continues. With regards to my Land-Rover not turning off with the
> key switch. I got out a trusty test lamp and checked the power to the hot
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 29 lines)]
> CKS|Partners                                            0344-382114
> Advertising & Marketing Communications            fax   0344-303192

------------------------------

From: Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com>
Subject: Re: California DMV
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 95 9:47:29 CST

john hess said:
> The continuing saga continues!  I went to DMV today, armed with every piece
> of paper I could think they would ask for and in fact that they HAD asked
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> give out titles for old cars but IF THEY DID, the rover would certainly
> qualify. If this doesn't work, I'm going to see about some legal type in

John, I really and truly sympathize with you.  My dealings with the MO
dmv have been aggravating in the extreme.  I did want to mention that
(at least in MO) the folks at the dmv were able to quickly and easily
check a book (bound photocopies, it looked like) to confirm my statement
that VT does not maintain (or issue) titles to vehicles older than
1972 (or somewhere thereabouts); at that point my "lack" of a VT title
to a 1970 was immaterial.  It is my understanding that several states
do not title vehicles (or at least did not in the not too distant past).

It has also been my experience that dmvs really do not care about whether
you are able to title/register any particular vehicle.  They would just
as soon see it go to the crusher as take the time to help you title it.

Mark
mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com

------------------------------

From: Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com>
Subject: Re: California DMV
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 95 9:47:29 CST

john hess said:
> The continuing saga continues!  I went to DMV today, armed with every piece
> of paper I could think they would ask for and in fact that they HAD asked
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> give out titles for old cars but IF THEY DID, the rover would certainly
> qualify. If this doesn't work, I'm going to see about some legal type in

John, I really and truly sympathize with you.  My dealings with the MO
dmv have been aggravating in the extreme.  I did want to mention that
(at least in MO) the folks at the dmv were able to quickly and easily
check a book (bound photocopies, it looked like) to confirm my statement
that VT does not maintain (or issue) titles to vehicles older than
1972 (or somewhere thereabouts); at that point my "lack" of a VT title
to a 1970 was immaterial.  It is my understanding that several states
do not title vehicles (or at least did not in the not too distant past).

It has also been my experience that dmvs really do not care about whether
you are able to title/register any particular vehicle.  They would just
as soon see it go to the crusher as take the time to help you title it.

Mark
mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 1995 11:16:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Roofs

The tropical roof is a two layered affair, with the second skin spaced above
the car top to keep the sun from cooking the cabin and to allow for air
circulation between the layers.  All manner of configurations of tops are
available.  For the 88 there is the standard solid rear windows, sliding rear
windows, no rear windows, extra rear windows (safari: with the ones on top),
tropical, pick-up cab, and canvas.  Now, there are canvas half tops, full
tops w/o windows, with windows, bikini tops, AND, my favorite, NO TOP, no
wind shield.

------------------------------

From: Bill Yerazunis <crash@icad.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 1995 11:21:10 +0500
Subject: Oil Changes on the newer Rover V8's

My '94 Disco manuals (both the "user guide" and the "Factory Writ of God")
specify 7,000 miles for the oil + filter change, worst case.

They also suggest that if you're running in extremely severe conditions,
such as deep wading in muddy conditions, you may need to change more 
often- as often as "ONCE A DAY".

Further, you aren't supposed to change both the oil and the filter at
the same time (to prevent the oil cooler from draining down or the oil pump
losing prime.)  Nor are you supposed to mount an empty filter.

Here's a paraphrase of the "Factory Gospel Disco Oil Change":

 Drain the oil.  Put the oil plug back in.  Put in most of the oil;
 I usually put in four quarts.  Now, take the new filter, and fill it most 
 of the way up with new oil.  Smear oil on the rubber gasket.  Remove old
 filter.  Screw new filter on, 2/3 turn past gasket contact.  Add the rest
 of the oil (for a total of 6 quarts) to the crankcase.  Start engine,
 verify oil pressure OK (light goes out on start), check for leaks.

I do this every 5000 miles, with Mobil-1 synthetic oil.  (I don't mind, I
expect to be driving Sally Xray well into the next millenium.)  I've already
got 26K on Sally and she still uses less than one quart of Mobil-1 
"We'll find that leak!" crankcase oil every 5000 miles.  Looking inside
the rocker cover, everything looks polished and pristine.  No varnish, no
deposits.  And no wear.

Now for a question to the list: has anybody any experience with using 
the Mobil-1 synthetic gear lube and synthetic tranny fluid?  I used the gear
lube in my old Subaru 4WD (got both better gas mileage and easier shifting)
and they were fine there, but I'm looking for LR experiences.

	-Bill

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 95 09:11:27 PST
Subject: Re: 	The Triple Crown

Here we go with the triple crown!

After just completing 3 days' product training on the new Range Rover 4.0 SE 
in Phoenix, I don't think I'm going out on a limb to suggest that Four Wheeler 
Magazine will be naming it the 1996 FWOTY! This car is obscene!

Main frame rails double thick to 4mm! Perimeter chassis offers great side 
impact protection. Not as much Brimabright in the body but what isn't is 
double-side galvy sheet. Big 255 paws on alloys! Panel gaps! Like a normal 
car. Mono-sided body stampings - you can't even get one knuckle into the door 
gaps anymore!

Interior is like E class Mercedes. On road is very saloon-like. Off road? This 
was my big question. Fears unfounded. Felt that it lost nothing over current 
Rangey. Bottom line? No perceptible tradeoffs off road to achieve remarkable 
gains on-road - unlike competition.

Styling? This is the subjective area which I won't get involved with. Yes, 
more generic looking. I admit it looks better in the flesh than in print. 
Front brush bar really neat  ditto side runners. Plastic lamp guards so-so. 
Front bar is polyurethane over steel backing aka 1970 Pontiac Firebird! Holy 
wow, Batman!

4.0 litre lump is silky smooth and makes reasonable progress in 
button-activated sport mode. H-gate xfer shifter is really trick and it works 
- neat touch is manual gear lock for off-road - will hold just whatever gear 
you select - cool!

Electronics? Amenities. Absurdly comprehensive. You name it - its there. 
Digital HVAC. Programmable his/hers key memory/seat adjust/ mirror adjust, 
etc. Windows/sunroof w/anti-trapping. Fort Knox security system. 

Electronically controlled box means seamless part throttle shifts. Really 
nice. Stainless exhaust w/headers! Sequential EFI w/knock sensors means it can 
burn crappy gas if need be. 

Computer? BeCM unit has about .5 mips - w/100 outputs or more! Integrates 
virtually all cabin functions. And it is NOT a LUCAS unit! Yay!

Full road test in Jan/Feb issue of Rover Reference. Already a log of orders at 
local dealer - and no one has even seen the car yet! Another Discovery in the 
making!

Launch date officially March 17th (St. Patty's Day). See ya.

Jim
Roverheadus swooningstill nofreakingway

jpappa01@interserv.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jan 1995 10:00:04 +0800
From: William.Grouell@Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Overdrives - recommended use

> Since the OD, even when not engaged, transfers
> movement between gearbox and transfer case, ... blah blah
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> Stefan
> <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>
 
 That's the point, you killed your own argument.

 I have used mine (Toro) for years, in every gear, towing, climbing, pulling,
hot Nevada desert, Sierra blizzards. Keep it full of oil. Use good (smooth)
driving tecnique, it's just as strong as the main box.

 All of the torque goes through the OD, whether it is in high or low. 

R, bg
  

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Overdrives - recommended use 
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 1995 10:22:16 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <950125144055_100043.2400_EHK64-3@CompuServe.COM>you wrote:
  
> Since the OD, even when not engaged, transfers
> movement between gearbox and transfer case, if it fails you're stuck good
> and left without traction. 

	This is why I carry the origional gear and the rear PTO plate with me
when I go on long trips and off-road.  Just in case...

	Personally I only use the OD as an 5th gear, or to split 3rd and 4th
on hills.  (Except when I forget and swear profanely when I realize that I
just pulled away from a complete stop in 1st +OD.

	40,000 miles on the OD and going strong...

-Benjamin Smith
----------------
 Science Applications International Corporation
 China Lake Naval Air Warfare Center
 bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil
 1972 Land Rover Series III 88

------------------------------

From: ShaunC8958@aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 1995 13:57:04 -0500
Subject: Re: RR Aux lights

My auxiliary lights function at high beam only. Why, I know not.
Shaun Carrigan
'88 RR

------------------------------

Date: 25 Jan 95 14:23:33 EST
From: "Alan M. Murphy" <74243.1133@compuserve.com>
Subject: Thanks, Bill!

	Thanks to Benjamin Freeman who turned me on to this digest, and to
Walter Swain, Michael Loiodice, Jimmy Patrick, Soren Vels Christensen,
Jim Russell, and Bill Caloccia who promptly responded to my "call in 
the dark."  
	I am pleased with silicone hydraulic fluid in the brakes and clutch
of my '69 88"; been in for 5 year

of my '69 88"; been for 6 years now and still bleeds clear.  Not cheap
initially, and not compatible with DoT-3 or -4 fluids, so take your
pick but stick with it.
	I'm sceptical of the myths regarding "natural rubber seals" and 
Castrol products.  I've heard stories of both motor oils and hydraulic
fluids causing seal deterioration.  But Castrol is made in the USA and
is virtually identical to other petroleum-based hydraulic fluids, but
with higher boiling point due to additives.  That is the reason DoT
gave it the "-4" designation, and that is why it is compatible with
-3.  There are other -4 brands available.  Since they are chemically
so similar I doubt there is much difference in seal deterioration;
moisture, rust, dust, and heat undoubtedly do much more damage.  Better
to change Brand-X annually than to leave the ol' Castrol in place!
	Castrol no doubt makes excellent products; I use their lubricants
and hyd. fluid in my non-silicone vehicles.  Their claim of "LMA" may
well be true (Low Moisture Absorbancy), and would certainly reduce
rust, pitting, and boiling-point contamination.  However I have seen
many British cars use other fluids for extended maintenance and they
don't leak any more or less than mine!
	
	I would be interested in some *bona fide* facts regarding these
ancient legends: dates and applications of "natural rubber," and 
chemical differences in fluids.
	Incidently, the silicone fluid has a strange tendency to absolve
(release) nitrogen when compressed (contrary to Boyle's Law).  This
can lead to spongy pedal.  Keep containers sealed and don't shake,
swirl, pour vigorously or otherwise entrain air; this will help
reduce the dissolved nitrogen to begin with.
    
Alan Murphy			'67 88 IIa
				'73 Spitfire (Dad's)
				'74 MGB (wife's)
				Alfa, 2 Fords, Mazda p/u

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jan 1995 14:26:40 +0800
From: William.Grouell@Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: RR Aux lights

> My auxiliary lights function at high beam only. Why, I know not.
> Shaun Carrigan
> '88 RR
none

                        main sw    dip sw

batt----------------------o/o------o/ |o------------low beams
                                    \ |o----0-------high beams
                                            |-------aux

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: brains
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 95 18:36:43 EST

> I wrote to lro yesterday regarding ignition woes and mentioned my wet brains 
> problem.  Just to expand a bit, once the braions got wet the engine would 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
> All that aside, i have a question.  is the brain the lowest water-vulnerable 
> component on the RR? If it is, can it be moved skyward to improve puddle power?

I've managed to rescue "dead" brains with a good eye (ie a magnifying
glass) and a small soldering gun.  Sometimes, the fault lies in a
bad connection.....searching the board over for the de-soldered bit and
re-soldering it (usually, just by applied heat, after a cleaning with
acetone or isopropanol) can sometimes fix the problem. Check it over
closely (signs of "pitting", cracks, discoloration, and a lack of good
shine on the solder are indications that that solder spot may need to
be re-done).  Be both patient and careful.  Don't expect a single one
found/repaired to fix the problem...do each one you suspect is bad.

I've also managed to fix a dead brain with advil, a few quarts of water,
and a good night's sleep.

cheers,
rd/nige (brain-less, or so I *think*)

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Vents
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 1995 16:47:22 -0800 (PST)
From: "Kelly Minnick" <kminnick@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us>

RE: Vents
Besides the Tropical roof vents, I have seen people place *Toyota* pop-out
foot vents in their rovers.  Oh, well.  What we won't do to beat the heat!
Kelly Minnick  '73 Safari
Ridgecrest, CA

p.s.  My NEW top (tropical with vents/windows) has been slightly! used.
Someone used the upper deck as a roof rack!  Any aluminum experts out there?
You can no longer buy the 332174... Oh, bother...

------------------------------

Date: 25 Jan 95 20:34:24 EST
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Digest 25 Jan 95

FHY   in answer to your request re Volvo fwd :-
 the Volvo you refer to is probably the Laplander  which was availableas a 8
seater L3324HT with a 4 cyl 68 hp engine or a larger 7 cyl with a 4 cyl 94 hp
engine or a 6 cyl  volvo B30 engine. Also made as a 6x6 in the early seventies
for the Swedish military.
 The small  one was used as a military command car  and /or a radio car, it had
a limited slip rear diff whilst the bigger one had locking diff,s  See page 296
in Bart Vanderveens military vehicles directory.

Micheal Yabloski writes re handling kit for RR,
 Warwick Banks , ex race driver, markets a handling kit for RR, he supplied them
before Rover started fitting them as standard t the later models,  advertises
regularly in the Land Rover Owner magazine   UK tel no 011 44 177833 275  or fax
011 44 1778 33 466

 Lucas  dip switch,  the floor mounted dip switch is really quite simple in it's
construction and operation, and when operating properly much easier to use than
the stalk versions. The problem is that on the floor it suffers from the dirt
and harsh environment and during summer months long periods of non use. The
switch mechanism is simply a square shaft that is rotated by the depression of
the button, in one complete revolution, i.e. 4 depressions of the button it
changes from main to dip , dip to main, main to dip and dip to main, this is why
on alternate pushes you may get a good light, Dirty contacts are the problem.

Micheal Slade,  don't wasre your time and effort reconditioning the clutch slave
cylinder, it will at best be a short term remedy and at worst will not work, the
bores will be shot!!! and unless you have full reboring and resurfacing
facilities open to you the chances of getting a good hydraulic seal, better fit
a new one with your master cylinder and forget it for a few more years

Stuart Moore. write s re ser 2 gearbox 
the ser 2 gearbox is the same as the series 1 gearbox with the exception of the
front housing and the mounting brackets. the first gear, 15 tooth type and
reverse gears are readily available on the copy parts market or as original
parts from old stock, Craddock's will fit you up. to replace the first gear,
which also is used in reverse does not require any shims , I would however
recommend that you also change the second/third gear bearing bush on the
mainshaft,( common to ser 1,2 and 3 ) this is the principal cause of slipping
out of 2/ 3 gear, and the layshaft bearings.

 An alternative is to fit a 2nd hand 2A box, this is directly interchangable
with the 2 box. The changes are all internal and includes some minor ratio
changes, a larger front layshaft bearing( 25mm instead of 3/4"(19mm)) and a
larger idler gear shaft in the transfer box. The Ser 2a box is in my opinion
much stronger than the ser 3 if you can stand the non synchro operation. If you
are ever in Western New York, bring me a pile of clean bits and I''ll rebuild it
for you.

   Regards   Bill Leacock     Limey in exile

------------------------------

Date: 25 Jan 95 20:35:30 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Overdrives - recommended use

> I have used mine (Toro) for years, in every gear, towing, climbing, pulling,

Ah, *Toro* ... that could make the difference. There's been talk on the list
a while ago about the Toro OD being a much stronger design than the Fairey/
Superwinch lump. Haven't seen one myself yet, let alone taken one apart.
Would be interesting to compare designs and material. There's more than one
way to over-drive...

Enjoy your OD - while it lasts!

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jan 95 17:36:24 -0800
Subject: subscribe
From: Andre_Maier@mindlink.bc.ca (Andre Maier)

Please can I subscribe to the landrover e-mail as I have lots to offer

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jan 95 17:50:55 -0800
Subject: subscribe
From: Andre_Maier@mindlink.bc.ca (Andre Maier)

i would like to subscribe to the list.i own several units.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jan 1995 22:21:36 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Cadillac

THE CADILLAC OF RANGE ROVERS
Watching consumer preference trends, Cadillac has seen the future, and it's
not a Fleetwood. The company wants to follow the lead of Mercedes Benz and
Ford's Lincoln and, like those two up-scale competitors, produce a deluxe
sport-utility vehicle for affluent baby boomers.  A Cadillac sport-utility
vehicle likely would include real wood on the dashboard, a satellite-based
navigational system, and appliances to refrigerate and heat food. (Wall
Street Journal 1/17/95 B1)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jan 1995 19:28:42 -0800
From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re(2): Camel Trophy

T.D.,

I'm glad to hear that the Rover-Net will be well represented at the CT 
trials this years.  We'll expect a full report!  Wish we were there!

>Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 01:01:36 -0700 (MST)
>Rocky Rover Camel Roy drooleth: 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>< Off to see the Camel.
>  <snip>

And T.D. smirketh:

>... and Roy will be too tuckered out to take any photos or scribble 
>intelligible words about rover babes, so I'll be there to calmly record 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>my ramblings, but -- who knows -- maybe I can beat some of those 
>journalists to the punch and send some pretty pics off somewhere...

Which you will, of course, uuencode and post to the net... 8^P```

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 1995 23:04:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: RR Aux lights

William Grouell explains pictorially the Wonders of Lucas...

>                         main sw    dip sw
> batt----------------------o/o------o/ |o------------low beams
>                                     \ |o----0-------high beams
>                                             |-------aux
none

Are you sure it isn't like this??

                                  
             main sw    dip sw     
                                    ____________
 batt---------o/o------o/ |o--------|   Lucas  |----low beams
                        \ |o----0---|  Mystery |----high beams
                                |---|    Box   |----aux
                                    ------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jan 1995 23:30:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: RR Aux lights

On Wed, 25 Jan 1995 LANDROVER@delphi.com wrote:

> First William Grouell explains pictorially the Wonders of Lucas...
> Then Mike askes: Are you sure it isn't like this??
none

	However, going from experience your mystery box omits the "no beams"
	option which I was so fond on in the Mini.  Seems the system liked
	to go into stealth mode at random intervals depending on how rough
	it thought the road was.  In the end, to address the concerns of 
	some passengers and my seemingly inability to track down the problem
	I got a bunch of old pc expansion cards of various type and wired them
	all together under the bonnet and made them look like they were wired
	into the main harness.  Stopped questions about the LUCAS 
	problems, but gave rise to a whole host of others.  (actually though
	of doing the same to the 109 for fun...)

	Rgds,

------------------------------

From: "Keith Coman" <BAKC@giraffe.ru.ac.za>
Date:          Thu, 26 Jan 1995 07:41:01 GMT+0200
Subject:       Super-Dooper, Low-Cost Degreasing Mix

Had the occasion to try to degrease some ancient 1950's-vintage 
used Rover sub-assemblies last week-end and had to cast around to try 
to find a suitable cleaning agent.  Flash of inventive initiative 
(all too rare!) lead to the following high effective, low-cost mix:

1. Four parts undiluted industrial strength steam carpet cleaning 
   shampoo.
   
2.  Two parts paraffin (kerosene -- trans-Atlantically speaking).

3.  One part white spirit (prob. optional -- I just happened to have 
    some on the bench) -- could subsititute petrol or omit entirely.
    
Using an old paintbrush and scraper apply liberally and work well in. 
Watch the gundge and crud soften and lift, well...."Like magic!".

    Work in an unconfined space!   
Cheers,
Keith Coman    
        

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 00:40:57 -0600 (CST)
From: wilsonhb@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu (Henry B. Wilson)
Subject: winches, tires, accessory lights and Discos

Has anyone attached a winch to a Discovery?  Land Rover offers none (and if
they did it would cost $2000 anyway) so I would like to get a Warn 8000i or
9000i and mount it.  Where should I mount it?  (I already have LR's brush
bar--installed last week and looks _great_..  Quite functional also--already
several motorists have given me the right of way when it should have been
theirs!)

I live in Nashville, TN and went up to Kentucky for some good off-roading
last weekend.  It was real muddy--something the Disco really doesn't excel
at, probaby secondary to road-biased tires, versatile as they are (Michelin 4x4)

On to tires--I look with jealosy at the tires on the Defender 90s--I would
surely have to make some modifications to put these on the Disco.  Probably
a body lift for one--how do you this?  Gearing, too.  What gears would I
have to change and are they available.

Accessory lights--to any Disco owners out there who get the brush bar and
are considering the Land Rover accessory lights:  Don't do it; they are way
overpriced ($200 a pair, I think, for Hella 1000s).  Go to Autozone or
Pepboys and buy the Hella 500s for $60 which includes all wiring, a relay,
and even a lighted switch.  Both Hellas are 55 watts (increase to 100w with
a bulb change); the only difference (as far as I can tell) is that the 500s
are 6 inch diameter and the 1000s are 7.5 inch diameter.  $140 for 1.5
inches.  Now, if this were length, $140 wouldn't be much to pay.  But width!
But I digress.  Also, the smaller 500s look better, IMHO, and leave you
enough room to install three in a row.  The big ones are weird looking.  

Ciao!

Henry Wilson
Henry B. Wilson, wilsonhb@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu or henben@aol.com
'59 Austin Healey 100-6
'94 LR Discovery 5-speed

------------------------------

Date: 26 Jan 95 01:47:27 EST
From: "LESLIE C. STUTSMAN" <100042.254@compuserve.com>
Subject: Reply to: Re: new land rovers

Did you note the message yesterday from some guy on the digest.  He said they
are supposably in Jacksonville Fla. and are not EPA/DOT accepted. Only good
for exporting if that is so.  Also when I inquired like everyone else, they
said they could ship to Jacksonville from their US depot for an extra cost. 
Hmmm extra cost huh...

 One last note...  we do a lot of work through Jacksonville and there is one
car customs broker.  We use them and they do not know of any Land Rovers
there.  If they really are sitting on the docks there, they would be incurring
a huge cost.  Once they are shipped in, they get 5 free days only.

 So whatdaya think now...

 Leslie
 U.K. Land Rovers Import/Export Co
 813-954-4304

------------------------------

Date: 26 Jan 95 01:48:26 EST
From: "LESLIE C. STUTSMAN" <100042.254@compuserve.com>
Subject: Land Rovers Available and other bits

To Chris Whitehead and his new '66 88IIa

 Congrats and welcome to the cult world of Land Rovers!

 You asked about things to check, her are a few:
 1) Swivel hubs - the silver balls on the inside front wheels - check these
for pitting.  If they are pitted, be aware that they will forever break the
seals and leak.  If the fluid is not replaced you may have trouble.  If they
are are not already pitted, get gaitors to protect them.
 2) Oil/fluid level - check all of these now and religiously.  I believe
someone on the 'net once said that is a Landrover doesn't leak, there is
something wrong with it.
 3) Make sure you know the ins and outs of the 4WD transfer box before messing
with it.  Even something as innocent as driving 4wd on tarmac can ruin the
box.
 4) Learn how to double clutch!
 5) Lucas electrics - although we have experienced very few problems ourselves
with this, when we do it is a real $%#@*!  My only advise - don't mess around
with it, call out an auto electrician and let him deal with it.  First thing
to check always is the battery - Land rovers tend to be hard on them.
 6) If you have a generator (dynamo) don't expect it do to much more than run
the vehicle.
 7) If you are positive earthed - get it switched right away to negative
earth, you will be happy sometime in the future when you inevitable get that
flat battery.
 8) Oil that frame!  Your landy will last forever.
 9) Read the FAQ sheet on the digest.

 To JF Hess

 Is it titling you are having probs with?  Tell us more about the landy!

 Leslie Stutsman
 U.K. Land Rovers Import/Export Co. 813-954-4304

 Availability:
 88 IIa "Guinness" refurbished - roof rack, brush bar, 12-15K PTO winch
 88 IIa "Cedrych" big tires, spotlights, hard or soft top, etc
 109 Rebuild "Everton" sandblasted frame, all new brake pipes, servo, etc
 more...

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 


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