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From: Kelly Minnick <minnick@joker.chinalake.navy.mil>
Subject: RR Steering
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 95 23:51:52 PST

RE: RR Steering
I hear lots of talk about the RR power steering pumps.  I had to replace mine
on the '87 RR since they are not 'rebuildable' (so they say).  I replace mine
from Paddock for $140 US. (#ETC6496, ERR1104, NTC8286).  I know that's a lot
of superseeded (sp?) part numbers, but it worked for me.  I bought a kit to
rebuild the steering box for $100 from Rovers West.  Probably much cheaper
in England, oh well...  I still have my old pump, but just haven't gone
in my high-pressure hydraulic catalog to find a replacement seal!

As far as putting the brains under the seat, where would you rather have
them?  In the engine compartment like the silly American cars?

I never could figure how to get my aux. lights to work on my '87 RR.  Pulled
all that junk out under the steering to check the relay - it worked fine.  
just no juice to the field side...  I was going to re-wire it, but figured
someone had hacked on it to put in their cell. phone...

Has anyone else soaked the starter relay on the RR while at the car wash?
I went down there to give the thing a good bath before I pulled the power
steering box.  The high-pressure water soaker the relay (I didn't know this
at the time). I'm checking everything like dist. cap, etc. People looking
at me funny with this fancy car/truck that won't go! (actually, people
always look at me funny - just more funny in my Series vehicles).

By the way - pulled the second skin off my NEW tropical. Sanded, etched and
aladined the first roof.  Will prime and paint it Thurs/Friday.  Might
take the top skin to a body shop.  Would hate it to look like a sack of
potatoes!  The guy in Olympia wanted to sell me a Safari skin for $1000.
No, that's no mistake with the decimal....  I've paid less for whole
Rovers!
Kelly Minnick  '73 88" Safari
Ridgecrest, CA

------------------------------

From: Sekerere@aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 08:09:14 -0500
Subject: 1966 Land Rover

Thanks to those who gave me sage words of advice. I will check a few things
out. I have ordered a version of an owners manual from a LR dealer. Actually
he has come to know me well in the last few days!!! The "anti-Christ" as it
has already been christened (from a well known South African movie) was all
ready to go, when the mechanic noticed fluids leaking down the brake pedal. I
wanted to get this machine in roadworthy condition before I tried my hand at
fixing things on it. So now it is the brake master cylinder that has to be
replaced. Mechanic balked at using a rebuild kit, and I agreed with him as
the previous owners told me (whether I believe them or not now) that they
rebuilt this part in January of this year. Well January is not over yet!!!
Also says that the dip switch is bad, so I ordered one of those to, the guy
now says he will ship me a catalogue!! I must have impressed him as a repeat
customer!! Well I hope to drive it by the weekend, it has been in the
mechanics hands for 1 1/2 weeks, but if it carries on pouring with rain here
it might not be an option (so much for sunny Arizona). Quick question, anyone
know if there are any LR clubs in Arizona? Also how does one download the LRO
FAQs? Is it "get LRO FAQ.complete"?

Thanks again. I enjoy reading all the series notes.

Chris W

------------------------------

Subject: 110's for sale in US
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 95 19:20:58 -0500

To all those of you who are chasing the 110's that are reputedly for sale 
in the US I have the following observations to make after some lengthy 
research into the matter myself at some considerable expense, both in 
time efffort and grief.

The only company that I have been able to talk to in the US has 
consistently not been able to give even one VIN number so far on these 
vehicles.

The specifications given on these vehicles match nothing that I am 
familiar with as far as current Land Rover build specification options 
that are available.

So far the total number of vehicles listed and talked about being 
available exceeds 2000, yes two thousand.

There is not enough information that I have been given to this point, and 
it is not for the want of asking I can tell you, to give me any reason to 
give any credence to this "deal of a lifetime".

I am prepared to be proved wrong by the way, but I will enter into 
private E mail converstion as to why I'm not happy with this if you so 
wish.

I invite anyone to comment on this.

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Subject: news and info rr and us 110
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 95 18:58:00 -0500

Good day to all,

On the net the other day was apparenty a typo aabout 100 inch land 
rovers.

Well I have some news for you. Over a number of years, starting in 
aproximatly 1977 Land Rover was experimenting with different wheel bases 
and spring configurations. They were based on a Range Rover chassis some 
of them and were intended for the Swiss or French military market, both 
of which were at the time known to be looking for a new utility vehicle.
In the end both countries bought other products.

A number of these vehicles were 100 inch wheel base,. The project over 
time went through at least 70 experimental versions. Some of which ended 
up in the 110 development program.

This information has recently come to light in the UK and you can expect 
to see more in LRO soon.

Also new on the news front is a report from Mark Letorney at Rovers North 
about Saudi 88 inch vehicles. if you get OVLR's newsletter you will have 
read my piece on it there already, for the rest of you I'll explain.

Apparently the stage 1 109 V8 was well accepted in the Middle East. 
Infact the Saudi's ordered what we all have probably lusted for, an 88 
inch V8. According to e reputable source Mark informed me that a build 
was done specifically for Saudi of these vehicles. Right now lets see if 
anyone can confirm this for us.

James Taylor in the UK, the gentleman who does alot of historical 
research on our beloved aluminium beasts is getting ready to publish 
another book. It will be a compilation of all of his works so far in LRO 
with corrections made to the original text where subsequent information 
has been received.

One such case is a veritable cache of original factory drawings and 
artists impressions and design documents that he has just been offered. 
Apparently a senior Land Rover design man is retiring and has decided 
that of all the people he should give this material to james is probably 
the most likely person who would make good use of it and let it see the 
light of day, also it would be well archived as James takes very good 
care of all of this kind of material.

You can be assured that we will be seeing lots of this appear in LRO in 
the future.

As the history of Land Rover is ever evolving he sees this to be an on 
going project with further installments in the coming years.

regards

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: RR Aux lights
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 95 6:02:22 PST

I checked my Range Rover man, and found the earlier models have
the aux lights off the high beam circuit, and the later models
have it off the low beam circuit. At least its not off the brake lights....

Russ
> William Grouell explains pictorially the Wonders of Lucas...
> >                         main sw    dip sw
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
>                         \ |o----0---|  Mystery |----high beams
>                                 |---|    Box   |----aux
>                                     ------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 09:07:13 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Land Rovers Available and other bits

On 26 Jan 1995, LESLIE C. STUTSMAN wrote:

>  7) If you are positive earthed - get it switched right away to negative
> earth, you will be happy sometime in the future when you inevitable get that
> flat battery.

	I actually disagree with this one.  Positive earth works fine and
	if I was looking at a LR, if I saw the dreaded PO had changed it over
	I would be much more worried about the electrics.  There is no
	real reason to switch over unless you want to plug in all sorts
	of toys.

	Rgds,

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 95 09:35:31 EST
From: robdav@sunshine.vab.paramax.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re:  The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

To those of you still considering roll bars:
I have had several people contact, both on and off the net about roll bars.
I contacted a local shop, who can manufacture lots of four @ $300 each.
So if you are interested in a roll bar for a II, IIA, or Series III sent me
a message and I will reserve one for you.
Plans Mercruiser transplant this weekend.
R&D

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 09:41:33 EST
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: Camel Trophy

Got my press kit for the Camel Trophy on Monday...jeez Roy, you better be
in pretty darn good shape....  The bio for each an every one seems to
include "...runs 10k each day and 25k on weekends, majorerd in orienteering
in college..."   One of the ladies fancies *uphill* skiing.  Now there's a
cardiac busting sport.

I was invited to submit an application for one of the press positions for
Borneo (fired it back to them before the ink was dry!)...but they are
looking for someone with mega media contacts.  Good luck - keep the O2
cylinder handy - and give my regards to Jim Allen when you meet him.

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Oil changes
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 16:05:31 UNDEFINED

/I do this every 5000 miles, with Mobil-1 synthetic oil.  (I don't mind, I
/expect to be driving Sally Xray well into the next millenium.)  I've already
/got 26K on Sally and she still uses less than one quart of Mobil-1 

I hope you ran it in well before switching to synthetics! In a new engine, 
they prevent proper bedding in of the surfaces. Dont use em till at least 10k.

Is yours leaking or using oil? It should not be using any at that  mileage, 
it's almost new! But synthetics leak thru tiny gaps that dead dinosaur oils 
wont.

I have used normal dead dinosaur 10-40 SF in my 90 since the day it was born 
ten years ago, run it in properly for 3k, adn change the oil every 2-3K. It 
has 57k onboard and uses NO oil at all.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 95 09:09:46 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Hella 550's, 1000's, 2000's...

FROM:  David Brown                          Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Hella 550's, 1000's, 2000's...
Henry,

Sorry, but I disagree with you about the Hella lights. I originally
bought a pair of (8 inch?) Hella 2000's, (FLAMETHROWERS!) and then
bought a pair of 550's and put 100W bulbs in them. The difference is
VERY DRAMATIC! The 550's are okay, but in comparison to the 2000's,
there is really no comparison! The size of the reflector has more to do
with the brightness (and the design) than the actual bulb intensity.

As for looks, I have a Disco too, and IMO I think the large round lights
give her that "Camel Trophy" look! ;) I made my own mounting system to
allow me to mount all 4 lights using the 2 holes already in the factory
rino/bull bar. Also, I tried using the 2000's without the optional
support mounted to the top of the lights, but they still had too much
vibration. I ended up mounting the brace to the plastic grill, drilling
two small holes in the top of the grill, under where the hood. I also
wrapped all exposed wire with flexible conduit, making the whole
installation look very clean! (Also painted the extra light supports
black to match the truck.)

If you think the 550's are bright, wait till you see the 2000's! I'd say
AT LEAST twice the brightness! (For the same sized bulb.) I don't know
about the 1000's though, I'd imagine similar to the 550's???

I mounted the switches in the console where the window lift buttons are.
If you remove the cover, you'll notice two holes (for switches, used on
the Range Rover). along the bottom edge, center. That's where my 2
switches, one for each pair of Hella's are.

As for a winch mount... I was going to use the Warn receiver hitch
style, and then be able to use it front or rear, as well as remove it
when driving around town. I'm not sure if Warn makes it specifically for
the Disco, but it could always be custom made.

But alas... all my dreams and hopes are dashed... I must now sell her. I
am NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT a happy camper! But... I plan to replace her with
a series II or III.

Thanks for the ear.... Dave, '94 Disco - Phoenix Arizona.

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |           thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 11:15:31 -0500
From: afpgreg@gatekeeper.ddp.state.me.us (Paul V. Gregory)
Subject: Manual Frame Lube

        Greetings to all from Maine where winter temps have properly returned.

        In welcoming Chris Whitehead to the hallowed halls of Roverdom
yesterday, Leslie Studsman urged Chris to keep his Landy's frame oiled.
Perhaps it's been discussed already, but what's the best way to do this
without 1) contaminating one's own ground-based drinking water supply and 2)
earning the wrath of regional  environmental protection agencies. 
        I used to spray hot SAE 90 oil onto my first (now deceased) Rover
P-6 with a Wagner-brand paint sprayer.  Yeeeuch, what a mess!
        Re: John Hess's DMV woes, I can add such bureaucracies sometime
(deservingly) screw themselves.  Some years ago, when registering/titling in
Ohio my freshly imported '65 Elan (from the U.K.), the woman behind the
counter insisted on a sales document to reflect the sales price in dollars.
Mine was in Sterling, and no subsequent paperwork (from a bank or from that
day's exchange rate published in the NY Times) would convince her of
otherwise.  
        At that, I did the next most resourceful thing: I lied.  I told her
"L" was British shorthand for "$." She believed me and let me slide at a
one-for-one exchange rate.
        That was 17 years ago, so the statue of limitations is well behind me.
                                --Cheers, Paul (proud owner of lotsa dead
two and                                                      four-wheeled
British stuff)    
          

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 11:37:28 -0600
From: Marcus Tooze <tooze@vinny.cecer.army.mil>
Subject: landy 109 for sale

I decided to start thinking about selling my 109 'cos I want a short
wheel base... 1) this one's too big to fit in my garage (!) 2) I've
always fancied a lightweight.

So...I only got this one at the end of the summer last year...heres the scoop:

1970 109 Safari 4 door
	-Mechanicals in great shape. Good compression. All high/low 4/2 
	mechanicals working properly
	-Clock says 47000...dunno if thats right!
	-Body in good shape. Some rust spots on the rear cross member,
	and I have the new cross member. Otherwise the frame is VERY clean
	Only other rust was on the two rear doors. I got two brand new doors 
	a few weeks ago.
	-bunch of new parts...new rubber seals, new light cages, new knobs,
	new light lenses etc etc.
	-Some bondo in the front left wing headlight surround. I have a brand 
	new surriound waiting to be fitted though.
	-Two front door skins came w/ it....ni idea why the guy bought 'em!
	-Interior is fair...no rips on the vinyl, but needs a clean
	-6 BRAND NEW tires!

Right now I've got the glass stripped out and the interior out because I just
had it media blasted inside and out, so now it's in bare metal waiting to 
be painted.

So...it needs paint, and the headlight surround and glass refitted (oh yeh...I
have all new window channels too). I'm asking $5500 or serious offers.
Email me at tooze@vinny.cecer.army.mil or call 217 351 66255. The truck and
I are located in central IL. I have photos available.

Marcus

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: BMW/Buick/Rover V8
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 95 10:47:00 EST

I have learned through one of our car side members of a chap in Michigan who 
specializes in Buick 215/Rover 3500 V8s. He has a catalogue of spares and 
knows which parts are interchangable. Thought the address might be useful to 
Range Rover and V8 conversion owners. Here it is:-
Dave LaGrou
D&D Fabrications, 8055 Tiffany, Almont, MI 48003

Trevor Easton 1962 Series IIA 88 Station Wagon "Miss Golightly"
teaston@dqc2.dofasco.ca

------------------------------

From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 12:56:49 -0500
Subject: what kind of Carb?

Dear Fellow Netters,

my carburettor is on its last legs and needs to be replaced shorthly, 
i currently have as some put it a "webber du la caca" 

i would like some advice from you all as to what particular carburettor i
should get. 
what do people have, what are they happy/unhappy with, what are the pro/cons
costs etc.
i would also like some advice on the best place to make this purchase,
i usually buy from RN or BP, but RN wants 259 for the zenith, and 200 for the
webber, but in LRO if i order from the UK i can get one for less than $100US
w/o shipping
i havent ordered parts from england before, but this might be the time to
start. 

thanks

Spenny

Spencer K. C. Norcross                               Spenny@aol.com
Haverhill, Mass. USA
508-373-1788 (W)                                508-521-4093 (H)
508-521-1380 (FAX)
===--===---===---===---===---===---===---===---===--===
1969 IIA SWB - The Wayback Machine

Land Rovers on the Information Superhighway!
What will they think of next!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 13:23:10 EST
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: Mid-Atlantic Rally

Hot damn!  The Mid-Atlanic Rally is featured in this month's LRO!  Someone
who has a business in the UK had the magazine flown over to the US in the
corporate mail pouch.  Who knows when the mail will actually deliver it, though.

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 13:22:48 EST
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: Water on the brain...

As a series Rover owner, I've never had to resusitate a soddened ECU, but I
did revive a *new* TV from where the cat pissed into the back. :-0  (Talk
about hot...it came real close to dying of sudden lead poisioning...cat
urine is far more corrosive than pond water.)  Modern, solid-state circuits
are quite waterproof - it's the disolved minerals/electrolytes that are the
bother.  Pulled the main circuit board out the back of the TV so it would
drain into a bucket and initially flushed it with tap water, later with
distilled water, finally using 95% isopropanol.  Set a fan next to it to
thoroughly dry it out.  It's been working fine for five years and,
surprisingly, the cat survived to a ripe old age.

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 14:24:00 -0500
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Importing a 110

A friend of mine wants to bring his 1989 110" County back with him to the
U.S. from his assignment in Africa. He has the shipping part taken care of
but is wondering what kind of things have to be done to the vehicle to get
it titled, licensed, etc. Is it possible to bring the 110 in? What about
safety and smog stuff? How about reselling the vehicle once it's here?
Anybody have any ideas?

Chris Stevens
BCG Corporate Communications
BCG CorpNet Internet Services
1512 West Joppa Road
Towson, Maryland
(410) 583-1722
(410) 583-1935 (FAX)
chrisste@Clark.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 95 15:08:56 EST
From: robdav@sunshine.vab.paramax.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re:  The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

I'm sorry but my time demands at work leave me no alternative but to un-
sunscribe.
Please all take care
R&D

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 95 15:09:16 EST
From: robdav@sunshine.vab.paramax.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re:  The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

unsubscribe

------------------------------

From: "Mugele, Gerry" <Gerry.Mugele@wellsfargo.com>
Subject: Broken by Brake Fluid
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 95 09:43:00 PST

Alan Murphy said:
<<        I would be interested in some *bona fide* facts regarding these
ancient legends: dates and applications of "natural rubber," and
chemical differences in fluids.>>

Sorry can't supply bona fide facts but I can add to the anecdotal.  My own 
experience...I bought my first LR new in 69 and had no probs with the brakes 
(other than the fact that after 50K or so it peed 90W on the drums due to 
seal deterioration).  Then I drained and replaced all the fluid with Dupont 
or some such.  A month later I was rebuilding all the wheel cylinders and 
the master...leaks everywhere.  At this point the infamous Scotty Howat 
informed me of the Castrol story...it was called Crimson (and it was red) at 
that time...later LMA.  Thereafter, with faithful use of Castrol, no 
problems.

My current beast, a 72 88, in 22.5 years had no leaking fluid.  In October, 
due to a lack of time, I took it in to my favorite local mechanic....an 
Irishman recently relocated to Calif.  It needed new wheel seals all around 
and I didn't have time...getting married and such.  Anyway he had never 
heard of any problem with brake fluid etc.  In Ireland they only used what 
was available...Castrol.  So he bled and replenished the system with 
whatever he had...Lockheed I think he said.  A week later when I returned 
home with bride, I hopped in the critter and I was surprised to find I had 
no brakes...the reservoir was empty and at least two wheels were leaking....

You can draw your own conclusions but I think I will continue to use Castrol 
or possibly the silicon stuff forever.  BTW I've owned an assortment of 
British hardware...T series MGs, Minis, Cortina etc.  all prior to 
1970...and had no problems with leaking brake fluid, and at that time I paid 
no particular care to what I used.

Gerry  72 88

------------------------------

From: "Mugele, Gerry" <Gerry.Mugele@wellsfargo.com>
Subject: Lucas Laments
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 95 10:02:00 PST

Dixon sez:
However, going from experience your mystery box omits the "no beams"
        option which I was so fond on in the Mini.  Seems the system liked
        to go into stealth mode at random intervals depending on how rough
        it thought the road was

Actually my Mini was not at all random about invoking stealth mode.  It 
apparently had an innate intelligence/malevolence that caused to seek THE 
WORST possible moment to go to dark running.  For instance when I was 
playing racer in the deep dark woods and hills it would spontaneously 
extinguish the lights going into a blind hairpin turn with a dramatic canyon 
on the outside (where you'd go if you don't make it) and with a scenic 
rushing river at the bottom.
 Never happened on a straight stretch....NEVER!
On the good side of this I did learn that I could take an incredible rush of 
adrenaline without losing bladder control 8^).

Gerry 72 88

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 15:40:23 -0500 (EST)
From: Gregory Brown <brow7767@mstr.hgc.edu>
Subject: OD whines and Titles

Well let me ask another OD question.  I just purchased a brand new OD 
from BP.  It is amazing that a Rover can go that fast!  But... the sucker 
whines like it is in pain!  I have heard stories that the OD may cause 
the whine because the gears are straight cut.  Depending on the quality, 
some units whine bad some not so bad.  The over tale is that the mesh 
between the OD and the transfer case causes the whine.  New gear to a 
worn gear.  If this is correct how many gears do I need to replace to 
correct the problem?  Any feedback will be appreciated, OD's are not 
cheap.

For John Hess, I too ran into the title problem from a rover purchased in 
New Hampshire.  No title and no previous registration.  Connecticut DMV 
told me I could purchase a bond from my insurance agent.  This would have 
to be carried for x amount of years in case a claim against ownership was 
made.  Well I wimped out and registered it in Maine thanks to my 
father-in-law.  They did not require any title as you know.  If you need 
and help with Maine DMV I will try, let me know.

Greg Brown
'71 Seies IIA w/whiner of an OD.
Conecticut (with a Maine alias) USA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 13:24:42 -0800
From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (John Hess)
Subject: OD whine

howdy all,

In response to greg browns post, let me add my $0.02.

I just drove 4000 miles cross country and can definitely state that my OD
whines.  I don't have anything to compare it to but after 2 weeks cruising
at 55 mph, it became a familiar noise.  From the beginning of the trip to
last weekend, the OD oil level has remained constant, so I figure the whine
is normal, YMMV. I use the OD mostly for 5th gear on the freeway but have
also found it useful in Davis to drive in 3rd OD. I don't use the OD for
any other gears.

About my title problems.  I am optimistic that a careful reading of the
paperwork supplied my Maine by the CA DMV will clear up my problems.  I am
taking the new found time to work on passing my smog inspection.  WHY?
Because CA has a one time excemption policy that started Jan 1 1995 (one
time per vehicle, not me).  I don't want to use up my only excemption now,
but would like to save it for later.  Therefore, I will get a retest when
my gas tank is near low and running on a gas/methanol mixture.

John Hess, PhD                    Phone me 916 752 8420
Dept of Human Anatomy             FAX me (ask first)
University of Calif               Email me jfhess@ucdavis.edu
Davis, CA                         or ?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 22:24:22 +0100
From: caloccia@team.net (Bill Caloccia)
Subject: Re: Aux light wiring diagrams

William Grouell explains pictorially "the Wonders of Lucas", only he had the
title of the black box mis-titled.  He also forgot the Earth input function.

>            main sw    dip sw
                                      +-----------+
 batt---------o/o------o/ |o-- high --| Previoius |----low beams
                        \ |o--- low --|   Owner   |----high beams
                                  +---|   Wiring  |----aux
                                  |   +-----------+
                                =====
                                 ===
                                  =  Earth

    Cheers,
        --bill  caloccia@Team.Net       caloccia@Stratus.Com

      1  3     dl OD  L           "Land Rover's first, becuase
      |--|--+  o  |   |            Land Rovers last."
      2  4  R     N   H           '72 Range Rover

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 17:05:44 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: 1966 Land Rover

On Thu, 26 Jan 1995 Sekerere@aol.com wrote:

> know if there are any LR clubs in Arizona? Also how does one download the LRO
> FAQs? Is it "get LRO FAQ.complete"?

	1. See FAQ I just just mailed you.
	2. FAQ can be had at the ROVERWEB, off of Team.nat, or by asking
	   me to send you the currect version (a bit messy right now as
	   I am playing with it slowly between writing the monthly
	   newsletter)

	Rgds,

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 18:07:39 -0500 (EST)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Re: what kind of Carb?

My *opinion* (he quickly dons the NOMEX) is to use the original carb on 
the original manifold.....There tend to be problems related to the vapor 
pressure of the fuel in warm weather but short of that the factory did 
test many carburators and found the Solex or the Zenith to be the best 
for running/fuel use purposes.....I have used a Rochester with *very* 
good results but as most seem to be jetted incorectly it would be 
advisable to avoid these....the "little" weber is a tad small in the air 
flow department (just gotta find the time to plonk all of the option on 
the flow bench...) and the ones that I've delt with have little problems 
like being extremely eratic (sp?) on idle....The "performance weber" IE: 
the progresive 2 barrel (throat, choke, etc.) on the Pierce manifold 
might work well as would a 5200 series Holley (Ford Pinto etc.) *IF* a 
source of manifold/carb air heat could be found......TerriAnn's idea of 
twin side draft (40 DCOE's (?) might be just the ticket! Really! I have 
had great success with wildly "over carburated" engines! I once had a VW 
crew cab pick-up...like a bus with a fold side flat bed..had a 1600 cc 
*stock* dual port "thing" engine....It came with a 34 pict carb, a single 
throat Solex...had 30mm venturi....I installed a *pair* of dual throat 
38DCNL-5 webers..with 30mm venturies A full *4 times* the area of the 
original carb....went from 17 to 24 mpg and would spin the rear wheels 
hard enough to blow the hubcabs off.......and ran so smooth.....never 
need any choke to start it....Well anyway, the secret here is getting the 
venturi as close to the valve as possible (You mopar Ram Induction people 
can hold on....just *try* to run a 413 at 30 below zero...fuel puddling? 
*what* fuel puddling?)
There is an outfit in the UK that rebuilds the  solex pot with all new 
bushings and shafts etc and replates them to appear as new....will have 
to look them up.... every one of these units that I saw had a smiling owner 
to go 
with the glossy plating job......that's the way I'd go....unless i get 
this port FI system off the bench and on the road..

good luck!

steve....

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
"        "-1957 107 Station Wagon          PO Box 61
"        "-1964 109 Pickup                 Erieville,New York USA
"        "_1967 109 NADA SW                13061

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: California DMV
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 95 18:21:12 EST

> John, I really and truly sympathize with you.  My dealings with the MO

mee too. Oi.city. 

> to a 1970 was immaterial.  It is my understanding that several states
> do not title vehicles (or at least did not in the not too distant past).

Nigel (a '60 SII 88) it too old to get titled in NY.  I think the current
cutoff is something like '70 (25 years old is too old to title out here).

John, I suspect you are just too damned polite to these people.  Have you
tried the "Please, we aren't getting anywhere here...can I please speak
with your supervisor?" followed by "let me speak with your damned super-
visor!" followed by "outa my way, lady, get me the governor!".

Then again, a tip from your local postal workers could help.....

ugh,
shoot, don't just question, authorities,
rd/nige

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Changes 
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 95 18:24:14 EST

> Now for a question to the list: has anybody any experience with using 
> the Mobil-1 synthetic gear lube and synthetic tranny fluid?  I used the gear
> lube in my old Subaru 4WD (got both better gas mileage and easier shifting)
> and they were fine there, but I'm looking for LR experiences.

Someone I know who races Healeys uses it religiously.  Far less expensive
than more "esoteric" blends, and claimed to be just as effective.

rd/nigel (leaks too much)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 00:50:56 +0100
From: caloccia@team.net (Bill Caloccia)
Subject: Re: tyres, accessory lights and Discos

>Henry B. Wilson, wilsonhb@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu writes:

>On to tires--I look with jealosy at the tires on the Defender 90s--I would
>>surely have to make some modifications to put these on the Disco.

Usually folks get tyres with a slightly different profile and diameter and
the tread pattern they want, it is a heck of a lot cheaper and more straight
forward than changing the bodywork (well, I've seen racer types change body
work with a 2.5" or 3" diameter steel pipe, but most sane folks wouldn't
do that to a new Disco...

>overpriced ($200 a pair, I think, for Hella 1000s).
  Though that may be pricy, I'll remind Henry that the regional chains are
  of little use to readers in far-flung parts of the country, none the less
  for the many overseas readers.

>the only difference (as far as I can tell) is   [the size & price]

Well, Henry, if size and price are the only difference, then you could have
saved a few dollars and gotten a 'zuki, but then you'd ne'er be able to
squeeze a set of defender tyres under it :-)

But seriously, sticking a brighter bulb doesn't improve the optics of the
lamp, nor does it improve the beam pattern.  In some units the brighter
lamp can actually cause the lamp to fail.  Some of the materials in the
smaller and less expensive lamps, aren't able to dissipate the heat quick
enough, and I've seen a number of lamp lenses break due to thermal
mis-treatment, as opposed to being broken by stones, etc.

In general, if you looked up the Hella specs for the reflective ranges of
various lamps, they do vary and will increase across the line.  In general,
rectangular versions will be less than the equivalent diameter round
reflectors.

For example, in older the Marchal Line (the only one which I had extensive
data for):

Model   Reflector Case      Fog  Pattern   Driving  Pattern   Spot   Pattern
        Diameter / Depth         Degrees            Degrees
        Height                   VertxWid           VertxWid
750     3.75" H   1.87" H2  460' 14 x 82w   4600'   12 x 12w
810     5.50" dia 2.37" H3  390' 10 x 95w   3900'   18 x 45w
850     4.00" H   2.75" H3  450' 10 x 95w   4400'   20 x 45w
880     7.00" dia 2.5"  H3  400' 12 x100w   4900'   20 x 50w  5300'  16 x 30w
950     5.5"  H   4.25" H2  680' 10 x116w   5300'   12 x 36w  8700'  13 x 13w
900     7.75" dia 3.5"  H2  690' 14 x110w   5500'   22 x 50w  9600'  18 x 30w

Obviously, the smallest lamp can be made to project quite a distance, but,
even so, the area of coverage is much less than the larger lamps.

The 900 and 950, like the 880 and 850, are similar lamps, but the rectangular
version is less reflector than the circular and the dispersion is much greater
with the circular - the pattern is larger and the throw is longer.  As you
go up the chart to smaller sizes 900 -> 880 -> 810 that first lost half inch
diameter trims 42% off the distance for a fog, 11% off the driving and
some 44% off of the driving lamps - and that is just the  reflective range,
not to mention that the degrees of coverage is less for any of the lamps.

So if you want to make that 55 watts (4.2Amps) going to each lamp to do the
most work for you, you'll get a higher spec lamp, and it will cost you more
and take up more space on your bumper.  Then you have to sort out how much
power you have available for all your lamps, and what else you're running.

If you're starting out with a small, non-automated vehicle, say a late '70's
Honda Civic, or something with an ancient but of Lucas kit then you're
looking at maybe a 35Amp altenator.  Maybe a 55 Amp in something that had
options (an Accord or a bog standard Delco conversion).

Once you've replaced the stock 7" diameter head lamps with european conversions,
and you add a pair of driving lamps, and a pair of fog lamps, you're pushing
340 watts out the front when all are lit (with 'normal' 55/60 watt bulbs).
That is a power consumption of something like 27 amps at 12.8 volts, not to
mention those few watt lamps front, rear and corners, the windscreen wiper
motor, heater motor, and any audio kit you may have installed.

    Cheers,
        --bill  caloccia@Team.Net       caloccia@Stratus.Com

      1  3     dl OD  L           "Land Rover's first, becuase
      |--|--+  o  |   |            Land Rovers last."
      2  4  R     N   H           '72 Range Rover

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 02:14:14 +0200 (METDST)
From: S|ren Vels Christensen <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: Volvo (fahrvergnugen)

On 25 Jan 1995, WILLIAM L. LEACOCK wrote:

> FHY   in answer to your request re Volvo fwd :-
>  the Volvo you refer to is probably the Laplander  which was availableas a 8
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> a limited slip rear diff whilst the bigger one had locking diff,s  See page 296
> in Bart Vanderveens military vehicles directory.
    Regards   Bill Leacock     Limey in exile

I know of two types, but i don't know if they are similar or the same.
C202 "Valp" and C303. Both are very popular in Sweden and there is also a
few in Denmark. Some are run with a VW 6cyl diesel. They are both 4x4.

Well over here som Landies are run with the VW! And some with BJ42 diesel and
gearbox. Would that be a Landcruising Rover or a Landroving Cruiser?
In both cases it's blasfemy.

Rgds, sv

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 20:32:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Re: Volvo (fahrvergnugen)

As the new proud owner of the 2.4l vw powered Volvo Diesel Estate, who 
makes the conversion to the landie?????? *Please* don't tell me that I 
have to do it myself...I did that with the SD-22 Nissan diesel in the 
2A...and I'd do it again if I had to, but I'd also pay a good price for a 
"ready-made"....(made,Maloney, not"maid"... ;-) )
I can get a suppy of these engines in turbo and NA form and due to my 
wasted youth, have *much* experience with the 4 and 5 cyl's s installed 
in the golf/jetta and the Audi ranges....a very good light diesel if 
taken care of....most are not......

steve....

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
"        "-1957 107 Station Wagon          PO Box 61
"        "-1964 109 Pickup                 Erieville,New York USA
"        "_1967 109 NADA SW                13061

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Jan 1995 05:37:10 +0200 (METDST)
From: S|ren Vels Christensen <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: Re: Volvo (fahrvergnugen)

On Thu, 26 Jan 1995, Steven M Denis wrote:

> As the new proud owner of the 2.4l vw powered Volvo Diesel Estate, who 
> makes the conversion to the landie?????? *Please* don't tell me that I 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> in the golf/jetta and the Audi ranges....a very good light diesel if 
> taken care of....most are not......
> steve....
  "HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a Beetle..."

Please won't help you! Folks do it themselves or have it done at an
unauthorized garage. I'll be happy to deliver if "good price" isn't just
wind. Just consider a 20ft container crossing the Atlantic. And when the
pilot enters the ship, MoT and customs will begin to make room rubbing
their hands in expectation ("Zat iz an interesting kase, jah?").
It shoudn't be difficult to find a suitable victim since, compared to the
US, this coutry is alive with sIII, County's and Defenders.

You could also buy a Rangy, put the body on a Beetle frame, add a 
Briggs & Stratton 2hp engine. Then sell the frame to that German guy who
built a prototype sportscar on a Rangy frame with a Corvette engine and a
carbon fibre body.

The point: I think you will have to get your hands dirty ;-)

If you need tips, ask someone down under. They'll put anything in a 
Rover, - as long as it sputter.

Bonne Chance!

+----------------------------+--------------------------------+
| Soren Vels                 | 1976  sIII  109"   2.25 petrol |
| velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk     | "Lawrence of Arabia"           |    ((|||))
| Royal Danish Air Force     | Dansk Land-Rover Klub no. 3564 |   ((|||))
| Communications Specialist  | DL-RK: Approx. 1000 members.   |    ((|||))
+----------------------------+--------------------------------+__((|||))______

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 


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