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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: UncleBrad@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 02:52:12 -0500
Subject: '92 Defenders

If this ever gets sorted out, I'm somewhat interested in upgrading from my 67
109 but all this mystery doesn't do much for my confidence in these guys.

I sent them an e-mail response- sure would like to hear back from them.

Brad Blevins
Editor, the Aluminum Workhorse magazine

------------------------------

From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Re: Camel Trophy
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 01:01:36 -0700 (MST)

Rocky Rover Camel Roy drooleth: 

< I have just secured an ivite to compete for a slot as
< one of two Team USA Camel Trophy Journalist.  YES !!!
< Off to see the Camel.
  <snip>
< I see no reason to go out and kill my self doing the run.  But
< for the best news.  I will get to do all other driving tests,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
< mention get to hob nob with past Camel Team people and all 
< the newbie hopefuls.

... and Roy will be too tuckered out to take any photos or scribble 
intelligible words about rover babes, so I'll be there to calmly record 
the event.  No mucking around and running for me, thanks.  Gammy leg, you 
know, eh wot?  As editor of the local rag, I have a guaranteed outlet for 
my ramblings, but -- who knows -- maybe I can beat some of those 
journalists to the punch and send some pretty pics off somewhere...

(Hey, Roy, the location is supposed to be secret!  Now you'll have the 
whole world winching up the corridors of the Hilton.)

T. F. Mills                                              tomills@du.edu
University of Denver Library  2150 E. Evans Ave.  Denver  CO 80208  USA

------------------------------

Subject: Re: RR aux. driving lights
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 11:14:25 +0000 (GMT)
From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.co.uk>

LANDROVER@delphi.com writes:
> Conflicting info here!!  
> Russ Burns responds to a post thusly...
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
> "designed in grand Lucas style" says it all!! 
> OK, Range Rover folks... put away the Grey Poupon and fess up! Just how are
> *your* aux lights wired??

I have one of those nagging feelings, that somewhere along the line
Land Rover switched from fitting Driving Lights to fitting Fog Lights.

-- 
 _ __            Apricot Computer Limited    Tel:   (+44) 21 717 7171
' )  )      /    3500 Parkside               Fax:   (+44) 21 717 0123
 /--' o _. /_    Birmingham Business Park
/  \_<_(__/ <_   BIRMINGHAM  B37 7YS         Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk
Richard Jones    United Kingdom                     ..!uknet!apricot!richardj

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Camel Trophy
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 95 5:53:11 PST

Roy,
are you there to cover the Camel trophy, or the women...??

Russ

> Dear World Rover Friends
> I have just secured an ivite to compete for a slot as
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 51 lines)]
> am doing a natural high about this would be an understatement!!!
> Roy - Rovers in the Rockies          Off to see the Camel.
>                                  Teams in the Extreme  

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Maximum Braking
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 14:47:10 UNDEFINED

/If you don't have ABS, and just wail on the brakes, then the wheel
/stops rotation, and you've lost most of your braking ability.  Having a
/tyre locked in one position sliding across the road doesn't slow
/the car down that much, 'cause the only thing absorbing the
/forward motion is the rubber which starts evaporating off the
/tyre, and over-warm, soft, evaporating rubber next to the road
/is not anywhere near as efficient as that rotating tyre with the
/brake engaged.
/

This used to be true with old tyres. But with modern compounds, on a dry 
road, the sliding friction is damned near the static friction. Tests have 
shown that unless your thresholding is 100% perfect, the optimum  adn most 
repeatable strategy is simply to lock all four. Locking all four stops you in 
teh same distance time after time. From 60mph, perfect thresholding produced 
best results of a couple of feet shorter, but imperfect thresholding was worse 
than locking (i.e. most stops)

This was taught in some advanced driving courses recently, The only snag is 
that to maintain directional stability, all wheels must lock at the same time. 
So you try to push the pedal thru the floor immedately.

/What ABS does is detect that you've stopped a tyre from
/rotating, and it knows that isn't a good thing, so it basically
/releases the brake on the wheel you locked up momentarily,
/some number of times per second (frequency is limited by
/mechancal parts of the system). [Also, some ABS systems don't
/treat each tyre as an individual, but act on a pair of tyres at
/the same time, etc.]

ABS actually doesnt stop you as quick as thresholding correctly, or locking 
on a dry road - it comes into it's own in bad conditions where locking DOES 
lose you lots of traction.

/As a bonus, while the wheels are rotating, or as with ABS,
/mostly rotating, you will still be able to steer the vehicle,
/something that you can't do when your tyres are locked up
/and sliding across the pavement.

Steering is the main advantage of thresholding.........

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: 12K mile oil change for V8??
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 14:53:40 UNDEFINED

/In a well-known book on Discos, the author states that the oil change
/interval for the V8 engine is 12,000 miles.    Does anyone know why this
/claim is made?  I've always been under an assumption that this engine
/preferred an oil change every 3,000 miles. 

12k is way over the top. Recently there was a big discussion on oils on 
rec.motorcycles (their oil FAQ is well worth a look - do a Lycos search on 
'motorcyles' to find a site with it on).

Oils tended to start to lose their specification after about 1000 miles. So 
regular changes are the best single item of maintainance you can do for your 
engine.

My bike gets a change every 1k, adn the lorry every 1-3k depending on how much 
I'm using it.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: Braking
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 14:59:34 UNDEFINED

/Bill C. writes about "skid schools".  Jean-Peal Luc has opened an east
/coast branch of his famed ice driving school at Killington.  I had the
/great pleasure of having a (free!) day's instruction at Steamboat several
/years ago, and it was a load of fun...even if you have to drive Fords.
/Learned a bunch, too, especially on braking techniques and how to make
/panic stops on ice too slick to walk on.  Mash down hard on the pedal to
/lock the wheels, then just as quick, release them to roll again, cycling
/through this lock-release-lock motion at a frequency to suit the situation,
/in the process, imitating ABS brakes.  Tires can only do one thing at a
/time( i.e., steer or brake), and if they are locked, they reduce your
/vehicle to nothing more than an expensive sled.

'Cadence' braking is no longer taught in the Police advanced driving schools. 
The transit time between locked and unlocked drastically increases your 
stopping distances over threshold braking, only lifting SLIGHTLY when you lock 
it.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jan 95 10:25:01 EST
From: robdav@sunshine.vab.paramax.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re:  The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Well gang:
Ran the Mercruiser this weekend in the front half of a 109 frame
with radiator and radiator support (breakfast ? (now don't start that)).
It ran very well, so well that it seemed too good to be true.  The local
machine shop is making a water inlet adapter for it and if finshed by
Friday, the weekend will be spent installing it in my 109.  Last night
worked late and didn't get home until 8 pm.  Two parcells were awaiting
me from a junk yard in Ohio.  The parcells contained 3.9 differentials for
the "banjo" style axels.  I guess I'm all set.  Have some questions for
those of you who have worked on GM (chevrolet) engines or have transplants:
All my British cars have a bypass cooling system.  That is there is a hose conne(try again)
That is there is a hose connection from behow the thermostat that connects to ththe water pump.  Is this required on the GM engines, particurally the Chevy 250,
151, and 153.  I want to hook up the cooling system properly.
Thanks R&D
Our hearsay is that the new 1992 defenders are in the US, already and are/were
owned by the U.S. Gov. being purchased on the BPA for the Rangers (87 or 75 batt).  That the LRs are also DOT approved.  Our sources agree that the new defenders have the GM diesel and 16.5 wheels. anyone know anything at all?  Pipe up!
R&D

------------------------------

From: Thouge@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 11:24:10 -0500
Subject: 1st hello and RR aux lights.

I have been a silent digest fan for some time now and decided that it was
time to say hello.  I was informed about the digest some time ago by fellow
enthusiast here in Springfield, MO...and I read it faithfully every morning.
 I only have one Rover (88 RR) but am looking for a series project.

Our RR's aux. lights are wired with the high beams only.  This is the first
auto I have owned that was wired this way from the factory.  Others have
worked with the low beams or even just the parking lights.

Later On Line,
Todd Houge                                 88 RR                   71 MG
 Midget       
Springfield, MO USA                 63 VW Beetle        62 VW double cab
pickup

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 11:24:59 -0500 (EST)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Camel Trophy

Go getum Roy, you lucky dog. 
Watch out for the Roverettes.

Happy Rovering
Jon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 12:40:02 -0500
From: Harold_Wanebo@postoffice.brown.edu (Michael Yablonski)
Subject: torsion bars on 87 RR

Does anyone out there have any info an adding torsion bars (some may call 
them anti-roll bars) front and rear to the 87 RR? I undersand they help the 
handling on the newer models.  I spoke to my dealer about it but 
$$$$$$$!!!!!  There must be a cheaper way.  Also, is it worth it?
I would imagine flatter cornering on road but what about off road?  Does it 
limit the axle articulation?  I _DO_ like to take it out, and often on some 
pretty tough stuff.

I wrote to lro yesterday regarding ignition woes and mentioned my wet brains 
problem.  Just to expand a bit, once the braions got wet the engine would 
start, run for two seconds then quit.  Very consistent at that behavior.  I 
towed it home, pulled the brain, cracked open the housing andpoured out 
about a pint of yogurt.  Rinsed it out and dried it with a hair dryer.  It 
worked fine, but died two months later with the wife and kids alone on the 
highway.  Towed it home with my 245 volvo wagon and had to buy a new brain.  
I disected the old one to see if i could find a problem and it was apparent 
that i didn't clean it good enough.  There were a few dirt tracks running 
between transistor legs and such.  around a few components there were 
interresting color changes indicating some type of reaction taking place. A 
friend in the electronice buis said I should have pulled the board and run 
it through my dishwasher...says its the best way to clean them.  
All that aside, i have a question.  is the brain the lowest water-vulnerable 
component on the RR? If it is, can it be moved skyward to improve puddle power?

Michael Yablonski
Pascoag, Rhode Island
'87 RR

------------------------------

From: Kumaravel Natarajan <nataraja@cig.mot.com>
Subject: Top question
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 10:57:02 -0600 (CST)

Howdy folks, I've just got a couple of ignorant questions on roofs...

What does the "tropical roof" look like?  How does it compare (in looks
and functionality) to the normal top, and are there any other available
standard tops you all know about?  Is it simply the roof with the
windows at the top?  Thanks for any info you can provide!

Regards,
Vel
--
Vel Natarajan            Motorola Cellular Infrastructure Group
nataraja@cig.mot.com     1501 W. Shure Dr. Arlington Hts, IL 60004 USA
Phone: +1-708-632-2328   FAX: +1-708-632-3741

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 13:45:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Drippy Master Cylinder

> Clutch- Master cylinder drips fluid down the pedal and onto the floormats

>If the clutch master is that shot, throw it out. Rebuilding it would be a
waste of time and money, the improvement would only be temporary.

I agree.  Over time, moisture can get into the system and pit the master cyl.
casting bore.  A rebuild at this point, is at best, temporary.

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 13:36:24 -0500
Subject: Re: 12K mile oil change for V8??

<In a well-known book on Discos, the author states that the oil change
interval for the V8 engine is 12,000 miles. >

DON'T DO IT!!!  My '89 RR had been maintained that way and at 50K it showed.
 You'll never get into trouble changing at 3K.

------------------------------

Subject: Re: 1966 88 IIA 
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 10:51:55 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

Chris Whitehead wrote:

> Just purchased a 1966
> 88 IIA here in Arizona-looks in great condition, runs like a charm, mechanic
> looked it over and is doing some repairs before I take a crack at it for the
> long run. A few questions

> 1. Any sage advise on this vehicle, things I should watch out for etc?

	Everything.  Keep the oil topped uo, cause it tends to run out the
bottom.

> 2. I seem to get hit and miss when I turn on the headlights-even using the
> dimmer switch on the floor it is never the same routine. It can be brights,
> then dims, then no headlights or any combination thereof. Does anyone have
> any suggestions??

	Lucus Gremlin.  Sometimes my dimmer switch decides the normal position
is brights on and the brights on position is dimmed.  After a while it
swaps back.  I dunno why, but it keeps the Lucus Gremlin occupied so he
doesn't play with anything else.

-Benjamin Smith
----------------
 Science Applications International Corporation
 China Lake Naval Air Warfare Center
 bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil
 1972 Land Rover Series III 88

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 16:44:41 EST
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: Relays vs. OEM

A newcomer to the list, Sekerere@aol.com writes:

>I seem to get hit and miss when I turn on the headlights...

Welcome to the wonderful world of Lucas.  Seems you have a *genuine* Lucas
3 position switch - dim, flicker and off! :-)  If Lucas made guns, wars
wouldn't start.

The problem with this is that the wiring is direct w/o the use of relays.
If the headlamps draw 60 watts per, that's at least 10 amps going through
the dash wiring, not including any more to overcome the resistance in the
wiring or terminals.   Those ten amps are going to burn the switch
contacts...indeed, the multiway switch on the turn signal stalk of my SIII
is acting up...sometimes it seems like the electricity has to get a running
start to get out front to go to work.   This weekend, I plan to fit relays
for both high and low beams, so that the dash switch will only have to
handle a low amp load to the relays.  On all wires, I'd suggest use of
tinned marine-grade multi-strand, with terminals crimped and soldered.
After the experience gained thru rewiring a sailboat, 10-12 AWG should be
used for the headlights...the OEM Lucas stuff looks to be on the order of
16 guage.  More power!

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: "Mugele, Gerry" <Gerry.Mugele@wellsfargo.com>
Subject: Mini in a basket
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 95 14:31:00 PST

> but it didn't come with a picnic basket...

        yeah, but the picnic basket was an option on my Mini... :-)

That's funny, I think my Mini came in a picnic basket.  Wasn't it one of the 
favors wrapped in the napkins Martha?

Gerry

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 22:45:45 +0000
From: Steve Firth <steve@firthcom.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re:Defender 100

Lloyd Allison said:

>The only 100 inch "Defender" that I know was a small batch of
>prototype 110s made on the Range Rover wheelbase

Before this get out of hand I'd like to point out that my mention of a 100
Defender was a typing mistake. I meant 110.

That said, ISTR that Bryan Adams' Landie is a 100 hybrid with a stretched
RR chassis and Defender bodywork. The interior is also a hybrid
RR/Defender. And to forestall any questions, no he wasn't the one I saw
getting out a (standard) V8 110 at the Casino in Wiesbaden.

.............................................................................
                                                     Firth Consulting
Stephen Firth                                           Support Services
   steve@firthcom.demon.co.uk  CIS: 100023,3414            for Biotechnology

------------------------------

From: Kelly Minnick <minnick@joker.chinalake.navy.mil>
Subject: Tops
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 95 15:46:16 PST

I am finishing painting the last few items on my '73.  I have a pristine
Safari top (no alpine windows or vents).  I am considering trading this top
plus $100 for a Tropical which does have the vents and windows.  The upper
top has been slightly hammered (walked on?).  Is this worth the price?  I 
can't seem to buy the 332194 upper skin anymore.  Is it worth the hassle of
going to this top?  Please help since I would like to finish this painting
this week-end!

On another note, someone was asking about the power steering boxes on the
early US RR's.  '87 & 88's were prone to leaking.  Seal kits are available.
I put one in my '87, and it solved that problem.  I then had the problem with
the power steering pump!  No kit or seals from LR.  Had to buy one outright
from LR (*&%$).  Seems like a wasted resource!  I bet someone put the wrong
fluid in this thing.

LR recommends changing the oil in their V8 every 8,000 miles.  That's probably
why all the used RR's that have been leased and only taken to the dealers
for scheduled maintenance are completely clogged up in the upper end.  The
few I've torn down had the valve covers and breathers completely plugged!
The valves basically got little or no oil....
It's your money. $10 worth of oil or a re-build....

Kelly Minnick  '73 88" Safari
Ridgecrest, CA

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 19:45:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Camel Trophy

Roy...

Congrats! You lucky devil! Best of luck with the competition. I hope you
make the team! 
Bring back some souvenirs - but make sure you get enough for all of us! :)

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 19:46:05 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:  The Land Rover Owner Daily Dige

Robert Davis comments on his Land MercRover...

> Well gang:
> Ran the Mercruiser this weekend in the front half of a 109 frame

What'd ya run in the back half????   :)

> with radiator and radiator support (breakfast ? (now don't start that)).
> It ran very well, so well that it seemed too good to be true.  The local

hey, hey... sounds like you'll be up and cruising at highway speeds in no
time! 

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: 24 Jan 95 20:02:03 EST
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: 24 Jan digest

To Kelly Minnick. the transfer box ratios were changed with the introduction of
ser 2a circa 1963,  the later!!  transfer box can be recognised from the
exterior by the diameter of the transfer box idler gear shaft which can be seen
protruding from the rear  behind the hand brake drum, ser 1 and 2 boxes have a
shaft of about 1in dia and ser 2a and 3 have a shaft of say  1 1/2 in dia.
 the transfer boxes are interchangable as complete assemby's.
 the small dia transfer cases are the ones that Ian Ashcroft use to convert to
his high ratio type by boring the larger shaft hole eccentric to the small hole
center to create the new centre distance.

Thanks nigel for your reminder of the timelessness of our "babies', you forgot
'automatic gearbox'  changes automatically into nuetral from third gear then
eventually from 4 th gear,
'cruise control" only one speed -slow.  'arm rest'-- shift lever. and of course
running water.

I have slept accross the front seat of an 88 many times in my younger days,
sometimes accompanied. ( who said anything about comfort!!)

  Regards  Bill Leacock.    limey in exile.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 20:02:58 -0600 (MDT)
From: Mike Slade <SLCN3@cc.usu.edu>
Subject: Overdrive/tie rod woes

Hello again,

First I must say thank you to all those who replied to my first post.  I knew I
was getting involved in a great group of people when I went to that ralley in
Moab.  You all haven't let me down yet!

I ordered a new clutch master cylinder from Rovers North today.  My post should
have read clutch/tie rod woes, beause I will be replacing them both ASAP.  

I will be rebuilding the slave cylinder as well as replacing the master
cylinder and if anyone has anyadvice regarding this undertaking I'd appreciate
it.

Also, I will be replacing the tie rod ends, as I feel that steering this beast
under control will be in my best interest.  It barely passed inspection, and
only with a verbal promise to replace them SOON.

Oh, and yesterday as I was going to junk yards looking for spares, I got my
first "aint that a Toyota?" comment.  The first of many to come I figure.  I
was going to correct him, but some things aren't worth getting hit over.

Anyway, thanks to the group once again!

Regards,

Michael Slade

"If I could eat film I'd never be hungry"  (with a tip of the hat to Terri Anne
Wakeman)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 19:36:11 -0800
From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john hess)
Subject: California DMV

Hello all,

The continuing saga continues!  I went to DMV today, armed with every piece
of paper I could think they would ask for and in fact that they HAD asked
for.  I was to be denied registration however.  I seems that California now
would like a piece of paper from someone (some state entity?) that shows
that Mike Smith, who I bought the rover from, owned it free and clear.
Now, it says THAT on the NOTARIZED bill of sale I have (but I guess he
could have lied)  AND the statement I got from the state of maine says that
mike provided ownership documents in order to register the beast and more
importantly, Maine says the've never had a problem with this vehicles
registration. But california wants....

I would like to thank Paul Gregory, who posted something yesterday for
helping me.  His post provided me with a maine email address to appeal for
help.  He made several phone calls on my behalf and it looks like Maine can
not/will not do anything more for me.  I appreciate his help alot. The list
of internet rover guys who have gone out of their way grows!   Remember
Joesph Broach, the rover addict in Knoxville who sent me my gas cap?

AT this point in time, I have a temp reg that's good 'til the end of Feb.
plus the women at DMV says I can come in and get another if I need.  So, I
have a few weeks to get stuff figured out.  My plans are to drive the beast
until gas is low.  Then add gas dry additive and get a smog retest.  If I
pass, I will use the smog certificate instead of the waiver.  This will buy
me more time in the future AND not use up my one time rover smog waiver.
Then I will go have a talk with the DMV supervisor and see if I can explain
the legalese that maine sent such that she is convinced that maine doesn't
give out titles for old cars but IF THEY DID, the rover would certainly
qualify. If this doesn't work, I'm going to see about some legal type in
maine who could check the official legal places for any liens on the beast
and then send a letter to me for ca DMV that says the ownership was never
in question.

AT this point, I'm just hoping I don't have to prove that whoever owned the
beast from day 1 doesn't have to be contacted!

Anyone have any comments or want to contribute to my legal fund?  (just
kidding about the legal fund)

john f hess phd (wow, really?)
jfhess@ucdavis.edu
from home via modem
Land-
  -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and Mazda owner!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Jan 1995 1:08:52 -0500 (EST)
From: "Stuart H. Moore-Roanoke College" <SMOORE@acc.roanoke.edu>
Subject: Tranny and Rover for sale

Hello everyone:

     I got in touch with Elton Wright in Roanoke and we discussed
transmissions (which I need) and his 67 109 pickup which is for
sale.  He is asking $6,500 for it.  All it really needs is some
light body work and paint.  Nothing major, just smooth out the
rough.  It has been converted from a diesel to a 2.25 petrol.  No
overdrive, but does have locking hubs.  Runs good and is
mechanically very sound.  Everything works.  Elton is a very nice
fellow and is quite knowledgeable about Rovers and British cars in
general (he has a Morgan and a Morris Minor as well).  His number
is (703) 344-6530.

     This is the same Rover that Mr. Andrews mentioned he saw in
the "Roanoke Times and World News".  By-the-way the diesel I put on
the net and Mr. Andrews referred to sold a few days back for
$8,000.  Looks like the series Rovers are going up in value
quickly.  Hooray.  I can't afford a Discovery yet and I won't even
think about one until they come out with the BMW turbo Diesel.

     As for my need for a transmission.  I have a 1961 series II
with a suffix A gearbox.  Reverse and first gears are gone.  I have
heard that getting the proper gears, shims, seals etc for that box
is tough, though I haven't explored this yet.  So before I go and
try to rebuild it I thought I would check and see if anyone knew
where I could find a working series II box.  I would rather stick
with the series II box since I hear it is much stronger.

     Last but not least I am looking for an overdrive for the
above.  While I have the tranny out I want to fix it right and I
figure an overdrive is a large part of "right".  Any info about
either would be greatly appreciated.  E-mail me or call me at (703)
389-2454.  Thanks in advance.

          
                                             Stuart H. Moore
                                             1961 Series II plus a
                                             few MG's

------------------------------

From: FHYap@aol.com
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 1995 01:51:42 -0500
Subject: LR, Defenders, G-Wagen & Volvo

Re person trading in Defender 110 for a Toyota.  He probably bought a
Landcruiser.  Despite the preferences of this LR group, the luxury spec F=
J80
offered in the US (3 diff locks avail) is actually a nice vehicle aside f=
rom
the potential front diff problem.  Toyota does not offer in the US its di=
rect
competitions to the Defender (the FJ70 series and the lower spec FJ80
series).

If you want a Land Rover/Defender, then nothing else will do.  LRs have s=
oul.
 When you acquire one, the vehicle becomes a part of your family.  (No wo=
nder
so many LR have names.)  However, if you are buying a LR for the reasons =
that
minivans and 4wd are the current rage, you may be disappointed in a used =
LR
or the current Defender.

I found some info on the G-Wagen in Off Road and 4 Wheel Drive Feb 91 iss=
ue.
 While the earlier G-Wagen may have been compared to the LR, the revised
G-Wagen (more power, more upscale) is compared to the RR.  =93Development=
 ..
began ..early-1970s .. in conjunction with .. Steyr-Daimler-Puch, manu of=
 the
Haflinger and Pinzauer all-terrain vehicles. ... In Austria .. wear Puch
badges; but everywhere else, it would carry the three-pointed star. ...
Reaction to them was muted, .. because .. price put them on a level with =
=2E.
Range Rover and because their undoubted abilities were offset by styling =
=2E.
perceived as too utilitarian  ... Inside [the revised G-Wagen], Mercedes =
has
had a serious go at providing a car-like interior.  The entire centre con=
sole
=2E.. the tops of the dash and door are trimmed with Zebrana wood panelin=
g ...
The old G-Wagen was always a very impressive tool off-road, only losing o=
ut
to a Range Rover over really demanding test of articulation - while thank=
s to
its diff locks it offered theoretically better traction in sand and very
sticky mud.=94  I saw a newish Euro-plate G-Wagen in Fairbanks a couple y=
ears
ago.  I thought it was a good looking vehicle and the inside appeared to
resemble that of a Mercedes sedan.

Speaking of more esoteric vehicles, does anyone have information on a "Vo=
lvo
Cross Country" vehicle?  It looks like and is about the same size as a LR=

FC101.  Just a curiosity question.  I saw one in a parking lot in Ballara=
t,
Australia, several years ago, and recently found a photo I took of it.

------------------------------

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Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
	All rights reserved.