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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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Date: 20 Jan 95 06:21:37 EST
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Ser 2 gearing and engine noise

For some reason my digest down load stopped at message number 26,  I note in the
contents list that there is an item on Land Rover gearing increase, is this a
reqest for info or an article on how to ?
 If it is a request for info please let me know and I will furnish an 'article'
on gearing for ser 1, 2 and 3,  Can't do much for the new fangled nineties.

 Engine squeeking noise!!  Most prodably a lubrication problem, or more
precisely a lack of lubrication problem. On 2a engines for ex. the rocker gear
is lubricated by a pipe from the block to the head, the pipe is fitted by banjo
bolts, these bolts have a small hole in them to regulate the flow, if a foriegn
body gets lodged in thehole it cuts of the flow of oil to the valve gear with
consequences of bearing wear and noise.

 As another thought, the definition of sqeeking mice is a bit confusing but the
noise off power and no noise on power could also be related to the induction
system, thus when off power the induction creares a vacuum in the manifold which
can draw in air through loose manifold or bad gasket, with engine load the
vacuum levl drops and the noise reduces or dissappears or is drowned out by all
the other ypical LR noises. 

  Regards Bill Leacock,     Limey in exile.

------------------------------

From: "Mr T.stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Heaters
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 11:25:26 +0000 (GMT)

I saw an advert for these Mansfield heaters in the current issue of LRO
mag which arrived yesterday. What a price! $500 I think. You could buy a
lot of pullovers for that.
If you can get one, the box-type Smiths heaters as fitted to
air-portables put out a lot more heat than the wee round fug-stirrers.
My brother fitted a heater out of a scrapped VW Golf (Rabbit?) into his
IIa which works very well.
Cheers!
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(0475) 530581  Fax:(0475) 530601

------------------------------

From: Carl Byrne <SPECBB@CARDIFF.AC.UK>
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 12:03:46 GMT
Subject: Gareth Seymour

Hi Gareth,
We have to stop meeting like this someone will talk!!

I tried replying to you again even using gseymour@sihe.ac.uk and I 
still can't get through!!!

Perhaps we should resort to the old fashionned telephone - give me 
your number, I will ring you and perhaps we can sort out this mail 
problem, once and for all.

I don't think Cardiff likes you!!

Regards again
Carl.
Dr.Carl Byrne
University of Wales College of Cardiff,
Wales.
UK.

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Heaters
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 95 12:36:12 GMT

Tom,
You've got your LRO? Aaargh!Havent got mine yet.Still,what
*do* I expect from an Irish newsagent :-)
If the square box heater is better than the round one,the
round one must be *really* bad.My 11A box type is barely
OK to keep the feet from freezing solid,and defrosting,or
melting falling snow is a non-starter.Far as I know,its all
clear and working up to spec.I think the trouble is it uses
a propellor type fan(to my considerable surprise).At some
stage,I want to substitute a tangential fan,if a suitable
one can be found,to see if the airflow can be increased.
It certainly *should* be possible.I reckon the heater matrix
has enough surface area to cope.Dont know whether anyone has
already tried this,though.

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Mr T.stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Blowing diesels
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 11:17:57 +0000 (GMT)

Fraser Young mentioned yesterday the problem of the early turbo diesels
blowing oil out of the rocker cover and contaminating the air filter. My
90DT used to show traces of oil on the air filter, particularly after
long motorway journeys. I was initially very worried about this,
especially in view of the price of air filters! However, after a bit of
messing about with hoses and DIY manometers, I discovered that the
rocker cover was not significantly pressurised; ergo the oil must be
being sucked out of the rocker cover by the draw from the intake and
ending up on the filter. When I spoke to the mechanics at my local Land
Rover garage, they confirmed this to be the case, and showed me a bit of
extra plumbing that was fitted to the last of the diesel turbos. Instead
of taking a hose direct from the rocker cover breather to the fresh air
side of the air filter, it goes to a `cyclone' oil/air separator, where
any oil goes back down into the sump (you have to weld a spigot onto the
back of the sump) and the air resumes its route back into the air
filter.
I managed to find one of these cyclones at a Land Rover breakers, and
fitted it just after Xmas. This seems to have solved the problem, the
air filter now remains free from oil, and the engine doesn't appear to
use any at all.
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(0475) 530581  Fax:(0475) 530601

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Jan 95 09:00:11 EST
From: robdav@sunshine.vab.paramax.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re:  The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

To all you out there who have sending Carlos Ortis messages:  Some of you
think that he is the seller, WRONG.  He is only a potential buyer.  And if
you continue to send him threatning messages you will annoy him to a point
where he will not talk to any of us.  He is a potential buyer - repeat buyer,
not seller.  He is the only person that I know of that may be able to beal with the seller, so don't annoy him or schare him off.  I don't have the $375,000.00
plus to buy 25, but locally we are trying to arange for a handful.  Repeat
don't annoy Carlos Ortis.
R&D

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Jan 95 09:44:02 EST
From: robdav@sunshine.vab.paramax.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re:  The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

To those of you making a reply to Russell about his heater:

 His vehicle is RHD, so the later IIA smiths, and Kodiac heaters won't fit.
The hoses for the defroster end up just above the area of the bulkhead
that houses the door stop.  Some of you suggested he remove the core form
the box that bolts to his bulkhead and clear out the rodent nests.  The 67
RHD does not have the later Smiths heater found on US spec later IIA's.
To add a heater to my RHD 109 I used a late IIA smiths heater mounted to
the left side of the bulkhead.  Moved the air inlet ring of the blower
housing to the other side of the fan housing, used an MGB fan and cage
(because the motor and rotate in the opposite direction), and cut up
the interior distribution box and rewelded it to work on the left hand side.
Cot all the appropriate holes through the bulkhead to mount the unit
and route the defroster hoses (had to use a special cut out tool and
then used an air powered grinding tool with "dental Bits" to finish
the fine work.  Cut the hole through the fender and used a Series III
heater air intake and it works great very costly and about 40 hours.
Manisfeild will have to be done the same way because I don't think
that RM sells a distribution box for the LH side of the vehicle.
Poor Russ has the little round N.W.A.S. Smiths heater.
Russ the later Brit spec vehicles used a flat rectangular Smiths heater
that mounted to the Bulkhead at used up most of the flat area ahead
of the shift lever.  I'll try and have my slow friend in England find
you one.  It works better than the early round heater, but still leaves
a lot to be desired.
Good Luck
R&D

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 09:41:09 -0500
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: RE: Popping noises & Squeeking

Re: Popping noises-
Since you've already done the head, and assuming wiring is correct and the 
same noise occurred before the head was done, I would assume that one or more 
of the cam followers has worn/broken and the roller is out of place or out of 
round or a brass slider is broken.  Just a thought.

Re: Squeeking noises:

Since the fan belt has already been covered (are you sure you have the right 
size - width?  If the belt is too narrow, it can slip even if tensioned 
properly). Both of my Rovers squeak/chatter from the distributor drive 
bushing when they get dry.  I travel with a sqeeze bottle handy on long trips 
and when it starts up I pull the distributor cap off and let a few drops run 
down the shaft below the distributor plate assy.  It does the trick.  As mine 
sounds like a bunch of very excited gerbils, I am careful not to drive into 
Grenwich Village when this happens. :-/

Baloney

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Jan 95 08:22:17 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: '92 Defenders.

FROM:  David Brown                          Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: '92 Defenders.
Can you tell us anything more? Where are these located? I called the
phone # listed and was told the same thing, (lots of 25) but he said
they were "all over the country", really had VERY LITTLE to say! Maybe
between all of "us" netters we could come up with 25. I'm definitely
interested, but must sell my '94 Disco first. Please let me know
anything you know about this! I posted a note several weeks ago hinting
about these vehicles but got no response. I spoke with a friend (series
3 owner) who works for my local LR dealer and he (who told me about this
several weeks ago, and wanted me to "fish for info" on the internet) is
also interested, and tried to get his dealership to buy a group, but
they weren't interested, saying it sounded too fishy for their likes. I
tend to agree, it DOES sound fishy, the guy I spoke with answered the
phone "Hello." and not with a company name or anything, then gave me the
phone # of "his friend" who may have more info (I didn't call the
friend) and when I sent a note to the e-mail address, I got the EXACT
same posting as someone posted on the team.net.

Let's pool our information. If this IS in lots of 25, it's going to take
a LOT of cooperation to pull off a purchase. Who knows, if say 10 of us
decide to do this (provided it IS above board) then maybe the dealer
friend will be able to convince his dealership to go for 15.

BTW, what exactly are the engines listed? Are they LR engines? Sounds
like "American" (Chevrolet, Dodge, of Ford) engines???

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |           thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 10:42:05 -0500
Subject: Re: More on the Mansfield

I don't recall having to do much, if any, modification to the Rover's
bulkhead to fit the Mansfield from RN.  There may have been one bracket that
I had to cut off (one of two unused steel mounting brackets on the bulkhead -
I'm doing this from memory).  The rest of the cut & saw work was on the
Mansfield's box.  Remember, however, that this was one of the first units
that RN shipped, and I had quite a conversation with them about it.  I took
Polaroids of the modifications I had to make, and sent them to RN.  They were
very accomodating and refunded a good part of the cost for my trouble.  I
would guess, after all this time, that the Mansfield is a much simpler bolt
on operation.

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Timing gears
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 15:41:18 UNDEFINED

> I had the first emission test since my timing gear conversion. 
\  Is this the gears and shaft that replace the cam drive chain? If so,where do
\I get one? How much?

A company called Zeus do em here in teh UK. They consist of a replacement 
timing cover adn a gear train to replace the cambelt/chain on all LR engines.

They are EXPENSIVE (depending on teh model). Mine for a 2.5na deisel 90 was 
about 450quid + fitting. Other engines seem to be cheaper :(

But since the cambelt replacement is scheduled as a 4 hour job, and needs to 
be done every 50k, then for a first replacement on a new engine you intend to 
keep for a long time, you come out about even. The advantages are a slight 
increase in economy (1-2mpg in 30), no obvious increase in power, and a clean 
exhaust. The timing will not alter like it does with the stretching of 
belts/chains.

An added advantage is that I no longer need to be worried about the belt 
snapping (which some do after only a few k!!! or if  seal leaks adn gets the 
mrest smigeon of oil on teh belt, they slip!!!) and trashing the engine. This 
is not unusual in any vehicle, the true frequency of it happening not being 
publicised for obvious reasons. A surprising number of the cars in the garage 
I use are there cos of cambelts snapping. Often well before the stated 
replacement intervals  :(

If anyone is still interested, I'll post the firm's address, but since me and 
the source of info will be apart for a couple of weeks, dont hold your breath.
I think they advertise regularly in LRO. That's where I found it.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: Gelandewagens
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 15:48:01 UNDEFINED

/I have seen two G-wagons nearby where I live, which is really suprising
/since I live out in the sticks. There is a gent north of me who owns a SWB
/G-wagon outfitted with a winch. He lives up in the hill country and says the
/truck is great in the winter. The other truck is a LWB and is located more
/towards civilization. The owner uses it to trailer some sort of BMW to car
/shows. Both of these trucks look like they are pretty rust-free and run OK.

I have not driven one, but rememeber an offroad test in Offroad adn Four WHeel 
Drive, about a decade ago. A few things were tested against each other, 
including a 110 adn a GWagen. One of the things they stressed was that the 
GWagen was very good on snowy roads; but everywhere else, all the other 4wds 
crapped all over it, despite it being teh only one with axle diff locks!

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

From: WPUSER#123#EDUCATION.OSBE4#c#Jengstro#125#@edu.state.id.us
Date: 20 Jan 95 11:25:57 MST
Subject: Importing Disco

I will be in England in May or June.  I would like to ask if anyone has had
experience purchasing a RR, Disco or 110 for brief use in the UK and
then for import to the US.  I would also like names and numbers for UK
establishments which sell Rovers for export.  Thank you.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: LRO Digest
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 95 05:55:00 EST

Re:City College,gravity has a force and Steering  Play

Gravity is an attractive (Cute?) force between two bodies. It  causes an
acceleration at sea level of about 9.8 m/sec /sec or 32.2 ft/sec/sec.
A fall of 20 metre or 65 feet would result in a vertical component of the
terminal velocity of about 45 mph. There was probably a horizontal
component too, resulting in an actual impact at somewhat more than the 45
mph above.  I'm sure the unfortunate occupants of the Range Rover find this
all extremely academic. The moral of the story is avoid the sudden 
disipation
of energy be it potential or kinetic because it does nasty things to the 
anatomy.
If you must hit things do it at an angle or make sure they are much smaller 
than you
(hit more Yugo's than Semi's)so you take longer to expend the energy
and increase you chances of survival.

 Remember its not the fall that kills you but the sudden stop at the end!

To remove the steering damper from the crossmember. 1.Clean up the area
thouroughly. 2. Place rags soaked in a very good penetrating oil all around 
the
top of the unit. 3. Wait a couple of days keeping the rags wet. 4. While you
wait cut two plates of 1/2 " steel to fit around the top of the unit and 
about 10
inches below it, with four holes to take 3/4 or larger threaded rod and cut 
a
short length of heavy wall tube to fit over the bottom shaft of the steering
damper smaller than the damper diameter. 5. Put the plate with the centre
hole on top of the cross member around the damper, fit the studs and hang
the other plate below the cross member. 6. Put a large hydraulic jack
between the bottom plate and the tube which fits around the shaft. 7. Extend
the jack and the damper will slowly rise up from the crossmember.
This is what should happen. Unfortunately the damper which fits snugly into
the cross member is often corroded intimately into its home and the forces
you generate will serve only to crush the cross member. At this point it is
necessary to employ more drastic measures such as the "blue" wrench.

I can send a diagram if this explanation is not enough (GIF,TIF,BMP etc you 
chose)

Trevor Easton, Grimsby Ontario TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.COM

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 12:59:07 -0500 (EST)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: New Defender 90 sighting

I just got invited to lunch at the Vets Hospital here in Pittsburgh, and
when I pulled into the lot, there was this beautiful Sassy all black
Defender 90. All kinds of light on the front and a bull bar. Ohio
licence plate QTY-212.
Anybody know who this lucky person is?
Or is it somebody on the net, if so---- Nice Vehicle.
Later
Jon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 13:03:08 -0600
From: hiner@mail.utexas.edu (Greg Hiner)
Subject: RoverWeb has moved

Thanks goes to Ray Harder for taking on the RoverWeb. The new URL is
http://www.missouri.edu/RoverWeb. It appears that his machine has a little
more hp than mine and should be giving everybody better service. I've
enjoyed working on the web over the last year but it is time to hand it off
and take a break.

Best-

Greg

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 14:10:52 -0500
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman C. Wing)
Subject: IIA transmissions

While I was working on my emergency brake, I noticed that there was about a
1/4" of play in the rear driveshaft flange on the transfer box. I found
that someone had forgotten to tighten the nut on the shaft, and then had
apparently forgotten the cotter pin as well! Tightening it seemed to
eliminate most of the play, but I can still move the shaft a good 1/16" up
and down. What I was wondering was if there was any adjustment for the rear
bearing that I could tighten up without pulling the transmission. The box
is also a bit noisy, in addition to the normal gear whine there is a sort
of rushing noise in first and reverse. Does this indicate major problems,
or will it limp along for a while? Sooner or later I'll end up rebuilding
it anyway, but I really don't have the time until the summer. Thanks fo any
info!

                                                        bcw

------------------------------

Subject: Re: '92 Defenders. 
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 11:26:36 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

David Brown wrote:

> Can you tell us anything more? Where are these located? I called the
> phone # listed and was told the same thing, (lots of 25) but he said
> they were "all over the country", really had VERY LITTLE to say! Maybe

	This makes it very fishy.  Why would a respectible souce have his
stock "all over the country?"  Likely they were bought in one or two
chuncks.  And if some of them are still crated, like the advert claims, then
they would have been picked up from some one depot.

	The next really fishy part is that they are being sold in lots of 25,
yet being advertised in the internet.  For the most part those of us on the
internet can only afford one or two.  Lots of 5 people like us could afford,
lots of 25 dealers can afford.  If this character is advertising to us, that
means that he was unable to sell them to dealers, hence making this really,
really fishy.
	
	I was curious and emailed him and also got the call me message.
when I called (203 ==Conn) during business hours, I got no answer.  Alarms
are going off in my head.
	

-Benjamin Smith
----------------
 Science Applications International Corporation
 China Lake Naval Air Warfare Center
 bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil
 1972 Land Rover Series III 88

------------------------------

Subject: Re: LRO Digest 
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 11:29:47 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <2F1F89F7@DQC.DOFASCO.CA>you wrote:
 
>  Remember its not the fall that kills you but the sudden stop at the end!

	Ahh, a typical case of terminal kinetic energy poisoning.

-Benjamin Smith
----------------
 Science Applications International Corporation
 China Lake Naval Air Warfare Center
 bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil
 1972 Land Rover Series III 88

------------------------------

From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@qvarsx.er.usgs.gov>
Subject: Re: RoverWeb has moved
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 13:05:12 -0800 (PST)

> Thanks goes to Ray Harder for taking on the RoverWeb. The new URL is
> http://www.missouri.edu/RoverWeb. -snip-

> Greg

Thanks for taking the time to make the RoverWeb available to us all.  
I've made use of it on several occasions, and it's been real useful having
a body of basic and sometimes esoteric RoverInfo readily available during 
my RoverSearch.

This is probably as good a time as any to fess up: about 2 weeks ago I
finally picked up my "new" 1967 4 cylinder 109 Safari SW in San Francisco,
with considerable help from John Hess. 

The Serial number is 26409173C, so I know it is a Series IIA LHD export 
model.  If anybody can provide any information on its history from 
personal knowledge or otherwise, I'd like to hear about it. 

Early Saturday morning we left Davis for SF, and everything went pretty
well until the seller discovered that he couldn't find the title.  We
sorted that out well enough to complete delivery and partial payment,
pending his coming up with a title through DMV.  It had been smogged, at
my insistance and as provided by California requirements.  I'd been
somewhat concerned because it has a Rochester carb.  No problem, and for
those who have been following John's hassels with smogging his 1968
European 6, the HC (hydrocarbon) emission was 189.  500 is passing. 

John was interested in the driving characteristics of the 4 vs his 6
cyl Dormobile, so he drove it to Berkeley where we stopped to look at an
88 semi-runner (stuck valve?), and a 109 non-runner, that were being
offered for sale.  An interesting respite, (later, I was able to give John
Hong a detailed description of the 109, saving him a trip).  We took off
again for Davis, but had to stop for petrol.  The dreaded cap curse struck
as I drove off, leaving the it behind.  Having been sensitized to
such things, John's wife, Kathy, noticed it's absence after we arrived in
Davis.  Fortunately John was able to supply me with his spare, and we
ordered chains to foil the gremlins once and for all.  My wife stopped by
the station the following day, but it was really, seriously, gone. 

As for the beast itself, it seems to be in excellent mechanical condition,
with recent rebuilds of the engine, transmission, a new superwinch
overdrive and hubs, as well as lots of other well documented work done by
British Pacific et al.  There is, of course, more bulkhead rust than I had
originally perceived, and the body is OK for the year, but could use some
work for a "road restoration". 

John and I have recently helped another poor RoverAfflicted soul in Davis
find and buy a 1972 88.  A classic ad: "excellent condition, needs work". 
It's been stored for years, but ran well 9 years ago.  Wonderful. It's
beginning to look as though we may be reaching some sort of critical
RoverMass in Davis, and will have to open a restoration center.  

Walter Swain      1967 IIA 109 Safari: 'SNOT-A-NADA
Davis, CA  USA              or maybe 
                  1967 IIA 109 Safari: 'SNOT-A-HEEP

With appoligies to Steve Denis and all the NOTAJEEP's

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 17:31:00 -0500
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: Re: IIA Transmissions

bcw asked:

none
While I was working on my emergency brake, I noticed that there was about a
1/4" of play in the rear driveshaft flange on the transfer box. I found
that someone had forgotten to tighten the nut on the shaft, and then had
apparently forgotten the cotter pin as well! Tightening it seemed to
eliminate most of the play, but I can still move the shaft a good 1/16" up
and down. What I was wondering was if there was any adjustment for the rear
bearing that I could tighten up without pulling the transmission. The box
is also a bit noisy, in addition to the normal gear whine there is a sort
of rushing noise in first and reverse. Does this indicate major problems,
or will it limp along for a while?                                            
none
      
bcw,

To take up that play is fairly simple, but requires a little care.
Chock the wheels, put the transfer in neutral and disconnect the driveshaft.  
Next remove the large flange nut that you just tightened.  Pull the flange 
along with the brake drum off the shaft (the drum will almost certainly be 
frozen to the flange.  You can now support the edges of the drum on blocks of 
wood, and drive the flange the rest of the way through.  Clean the rust off
the mating surfaces and use antisieze when reassembling).  Now undo the 
parking brake linkage and pull the brake backing plate. Now is a good time to 
strip and clean all the roller-pushrod & adjuster stuff and re-lube them with 
Lubriplate or a good grease (while you're there, it would be a great time to 
remove the parking brake bellcrank {mark the bottom first}, and drill and tap 
it at the bottom for a grease fitting after cleaning it and its shaft up).

Now you're ready to adjust the output bearing preload, to take up that slop 
that you have noticed.  There are a set of shims between the speedometer drive
housing and the transfer case.  They come in 0.005, 0.010, and 0.015.  Unbolt 
the speedo housing (it may be easier to remove your speedo cable at this 
point).  Since you have a lot of play, I'd start by removing a 0.010 
shim.  Replace the housing and tighen up the nuts evenly, with your free hand 
turning the output shaft.  Keep tightening until the shaft begins to bind or 
the nuts are completely tight.  If it tightens all the way and the shaft still
turns freely, unbolt it, remove another 0.005 (you can mix and match to do 
this- say add 0.010 and remove 0.015) and do it again.  Keep repeating the 
process turning the shaft as you tighten the nuts until it finally grabs- then
STOP.   Unbolt it, add another 0.005, replace it, make sure that it turns 
freely, and you've got it.  Reassemble everything in the reverse order.

It will make the job a lot easier if you clean off the area first - gunk and a
toothbrush work great, followed by lots of water, then take it for a drive to 
dry it off.  I had this problem on both of my Rovers when I first got them and
it really cut down in the slop in the transmission.

As for the noise in 1st and reverse, they are straight cut gears (the rest are
helical- helical are much quieter) and will be somewhat noiseyer than the 
rest.  If it's reached a point where it's annoying, the small layshaft gear is
probably worn.  You can continue with this for quite a while.  Just change the
gear oil regularly and don't beat on it.

Whoa!  I guess that wasn't as simple as I thought.

It isn't all that complicated, really.  Just take your time and do everything 
keeping in mind that you will probably be the next person to dismantle each 
assembly, and you'll do a great job.

Oh, a couple more things, without the flange in place, as you turn the shaft 
by hand, the speedo drive worm (looks more like a donut) shifts around- 
causing the shaft to bind in one direction.  You'll see what I mean.  Just 
turn it in the other direction (sorry, I can't recall which way was which).  
It is also a great time to replace the output shaft oil seal.  Just be sure to
note which way around the speedo drive worm goes, and drain the transfer case 
first.  You'll need a 19/32 socket and open end wrench.  You can pick them up 
from Sears.

Bill

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

From: steves@floathe.com
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 95 10:48:41 pst
Subject: Brake Bleeding

I had the same problem with my '73 88".  I replaced the master 
cylinder, the wheel cylinders, and shoes, and I still had to 
"pump" the brakes to stop.

It turned out that a couple of the brake shoe adjustment cams were 
worn and slipping out of adjustment.  If the shoes are adjusted 
too loose, it takes a couple of pumps on the brake pedal to move 
the shoes close enough to the drum to make the LR stop.  I 
replaced the 
adjusters on all four wheels and fixed the problem.  The adjusters 
are about $30.00 U.S. from Atlantic British.

Also, I've had great experience with gravity bleeding the brakes.  
It's easy, takes only one person, and is a great way to make sure 
all of the old brake fluid is flushed from the lines (make sure 
you use clear tubing so you can see what's coming out of the wheel 
cylinder).

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 15:10:15 -0800
From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (John Hess)
Subject: stromberg/zenith carbs

Hello All,

I have now completed everything necessary to register the beast in
California and have made an appointment(!) with DMV.

Even though I have a waiver for the smog since I failed, I was wondering if
anyone has a series three workshop manual that covers the stromberg/zenith
175 carb.  I have a section in my series 2 and 2a book but am interested in
anymore info.  British Pacific is tracking down a rebuild kit and new
diaphram and I think that on my quest to make things better, I will at some
point rebuild the carb.  If someone could email a response, we could work
out a way to get xerox copies of the appropriate pages to me.

Thanks,

ps, all this discussion about heaters reminds me of my criticism of mine.
In the beast is the big square flat smiths heater (is this a series 3
heater?).  when I showed up at Russell dushins, I complained about it not
really working.  Russell on the other hand, used to things rover-like, put
his hand down and said our heater worked great!  Back in california,
driving around in 50 degree F weather, I think the heater works just fine
(if you're in the front seat and not going freeways speeds).

John Hess, PhD                    Phone me 916 752 8420
Dept of Human Anatomy             FAX me 916 752 8520
University of Calif               Email me jfhess@ucdavis.edu
Davis, CA                         or leave me alone, your choice.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 17:04:37 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

For those of you who are having problems bleeding your brake lines, I 
suggest one of two solutions.  The best is to go to a brake shop and have 
a power bleed job done.  It is done by putting the fluid under pressure 
at the head end and bleeding till nothing but clear fluid comes out.  I 
had mine done in the fall just so I could flush out the lines and 
everything cost $27.00 Canadian.  The second thing to check is if you have 
a CB which stands for centre ball type master then you should jack up the 
front end of the vehicle till the ball rolls to the back of the master.  
You won't get a proper bleed with the ball in the middle or front of the 
master cylinder.  I bought two vehicles very cheap because the owner 
could not get brakes.  A simple bleed while on a hill solved the 
problems. Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 17:10:21 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

For those looking for a great heater at low costs, visit your local 
wrecker (breaker in the UK :-) and buy a GM Van heater for the rear of 
the 1979 era Vandura full sized van.  This heater mounts wonderfully on 
the seat box in the rear of the vehicle.  It comes with two speed fan and 
I used about 12 feet of 5/8" hose to connect it.  I connected the heater 
into the same switch I use on the fire wall heater and together these two 
heaters keep my vehicle warm at Manitoba type temps -35 C.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Heaters 
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 15:18:51 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

John Hess wrote:

> ps, all this discussion about heaters reminds me of my criticism of mine.
> In the beast is the big square flat smiths heater (is this a series 3
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> driving around in 50 degree F weather, I think the heater works just fine
> (if you're in the front seat and not going freeways speeds).

	One of my problems with the smiths heater is the lack of airflow 
through that squerrel cage fan.  This is why I attached a scoop to the
air intake on my SIII.  It may not be pretty, but it forces more air past
the hearer core, and the air coming out (at freeway speeds) is still 
quite warm.  I hope that it makes up for all the heat that gets out through
the cracks.

-Benjamin Smith
----------------
 Science Applications International Corporation
 China Lake Naval Air Warfare Center
 bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil
 1972 Land Rover Series III 88

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: Popping Engine
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 95 18:29:21 EST

> Well, when he pulled the head, he found that the head gasket was not blown.  
> It was just the manifold gasket.  But he did the valves anyway.  Pistons and 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
> gasket is still there and not found?
> In either case, what the hell could it be?  We are very puzzled.  Before he 
> has it towed to a shop, any thoughts?  Anyone?

I once had a similar thing happen to me....the saga of my dodge dart...ran
rough, like really rough, hacked and choked, popped through the air intake,
etc...  initially thought it was just water in the gas (it had been real
wet, then got very cold fast, and all symptoms began the next day) so I
added generous portions of methanol, spiked with t-butyl methyl ether for
volatility (and flames...out the intake...another story but a good one).
didn't help.  Replaced the fuel filter.  Ditto.  Ran a compression check-
low all about (318 v8)...so in the midst of an ithaca winter a friend and
I yanked the heads, had them rebuilt (for a mere $125 I got them tanked,
guides cut, valves re-lapped, new stem seals, head planed-two heads for
this $125-wow!).  Put it all back together, got it running-still rough,
adjusted the timing a bit 'til it ran better (but not much).  Drove it
to a celebration dinner down town (at the bottom of a big hill) and on
the way home (up the hill) he (Elmer was his name) let out a big yell,
backfired, overheated and blew 12"s of seam on the radiator. A real
smoke (read steam) show.....quite the site it was.  Eventually,
I figured out that he'd jumped time.  Replaced the timing gear and 
chain (for a mere $45, or thereabouts) and he ran perfect from then
on (til death due to frame rot).

Timing gear and chain, perhaps??  As I said yesterday (to someone else),
yank the plugs and the distributor cap, rotate the crank (at the water
pump pulley) back and forth, and watch for play.  Some is too much.

rd/nigel

------------------------------

Date: 20 Jan 95 18:45:07 EST
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Engine problem

G.B. Pool writes re engine problem, I suggest that you check the efficiency of
the top end overhaul by the use of a compression tester, this should show the
compression pressure on each cylinder has a similar value, if there is a wide
difference in the readings on one or more cylinders, put a squirt ofoil in
thelow pressure cylinder and re test, if this does not change anything then you
have a head gasket / valve problem, if the pressure rises after the oil then the
problem is with the rings.
 Whilst the head was off did you check for cracks between the valve seats ?
Blow back in the inlet manifold can also be caused by over advanced ignition
timing.

 For some reason my last two digests were truncated when I downloaded, I am on
Compuserve,  and a computer illiterate, any ideas how to stop this ?

Regards  Bill Leacock   Limey in exile.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 19:59:04 -0500 (EST)
From: Gregory Brown <brow7767@mstr.hgc.edu>
Subject: Misc. rambling

Well I did it, purchased a brandy new OD for my Rover.  Now we can go 
fast...well ..er.. at least the speed limit?  Before I can accomplish 
this I have to put it in.  Can anyone give me any tips on how to remove 
the Main shaft nut, besides a hammer and screw driver?  The spanner 
600300 is not readily available.

On a side note, my wife and I are going to cross the pond at the end of 
May.  Can someone give me an idea on the location and distance of 
Berwick-upon-Tweed, Northumberland from London?  We have friends that 
we would like to stop in and see.  I am asking now, because tomorrow we 
go to the travel agent.  Hey I sometimes think of things at the last minute.

Well sorry for the none Rover chatter.

see ya,
Greg Brown
'71 Series IIA 88, almost with OD

------------------------------

Subject: Range Rover reviewed in LA Times of 20 Jan 95, pp.1,4
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 18:01:41 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

	This morning I glanced at the paper (_Los Angeles Times_ for Friday
20 Jan 95) and saw a really silly article on the new Range Rover (p.E1)  For
those of you (lucky folks) that don't have to rely on this "paper" for news,
here is as much of the article as I have the stomach to type in.

"The Luxury Is Standard; the Mud's Optional" by Paul Dean

[picture of muddy head light with wiper and caption "The 1995 Range Rover 4.0SE
comes with more electronic capibilities than a space shuttle"]

[from a random box on the first page of the article]
"1995 Range Rover 4.0SE

Base Price: $54,000

The Good: a three-ton classic revised and revitalized.  Float-free suspension,
tightened steering and smoother transmission give improved on-road performance.
Child's play shifting to low gears.  Bumper-to-Bumper snootiness.  Will tow
own weight.

The Bad:  Styled more for Middle America than British Midlands.  Electrics
might be too glitchy for their britches.

The Ugly:  Costs close to a matched set of Land Rover Discoveries"

[OK, so far not that bad.  But here goes the main article.  I warned you]

	"Splish, splash, we were taking a bath.  Car pools lived up to their
names.  Fast lanes were for swimmers and stray seafood flopping up Topanga
Canyon.  Heaven help those in the Monsoon of '95 who hadn't replaced ground
cover from the Fires of '93 or chimneys from the Shaker of '94.
	Yet God bless the synchroicity that brought California the worst of
British weather and me the best of British sport utilities.
	For neither rain nor silt nor flooded intersection could stay the 1995
Ranger Rover 4.0SE from its inaugural rounds as the lastest and slickest of 
amphibious aristocracy.
	We free-wheeled and four-wheeled up the Hollywood and Padadena rivers
while everything else was dog-paddling sidewise.  Hub-high mudslides were its
sustenance.  It went where only hippos and Humvees and the occasional
humpback whale dare.  In the playful process, its color changed from Avlon
bule to Ghirardelli brown.
	Of course, the Range Rover's talent for doing everything in the
dirt is a global given.
	Its aura may be that of a royal off-roader.  But when it comes to
riding roughshod over Greenland or winching its own weight through rain
forestest, the Range Rover is to sport untilities what Zippo is to lighters:
Unbreakable, a little ugly, but guaranteed to work everytime.
	It has been 25 years since Land Rover of Britan--builders of 
aluminium toughs for military units and desert explorers--designed a
Range Rover for gentleman farmers and suburban sportsman.  Lined in walnut and
leather, this first exercise in agri-leisure motoring cost $3200 and was
milord's study powered by a Buick V-8.
	America quickly grabbed the fad of elegant sod-busting, and the Range
Rover escalated in desirability, mechanical innovation and price.  It also 
became an icon of monogrammed parking slots from Paramount Pictures to Monte
Carlo."

   	This goes on and on with some signal in the noise for a while more,
but I want to go home for dinner.  I will leave you with one more paragraph
though...

	"It will surprise noone that the country that brought us Charles
and Camilla, Marmite and the totally bonkers "Absolutly Fabulous," 
continues to build sport untilities with quirks as factory equipment."

-Benjamin Smith
----------------
 Science Applications Internation Corporation
 China Lake Naval Air Warfare Center
 bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil
 1972 Land Rover Series III 88

------------------------------

From: sohearn@InterServ.Com
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 95 18:30:51 PST
Subject: Ballistics

For a 20m fall the following apply:

vertical distance         :     20 m
initial vertical velocity :      0 mps
vacuum impact time        :  2.019 sec
vacuum impact velocity    : 19.809 mps, 71.312 kph, 64.990 fps, 44.312 mph

An impact, at this velocity (although atmospheric drag would reduce it a bit),
is bad news especially when it's the roof making contact with rock which
doesn't crush and absorb energy like another vehicle would.

- Stephen

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Stephen O'Hearn            1994           LAND-            Tread Lightly |
| El Segundo, CA, USA      DEFENDER           -ROVER         on Public and |
| sohearn@interserv.com       90        The Best 4x4xFar     Private Lands |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 95 22:04:58 PST
Subject: Re: 	1997 Gwagen

Hello all:

The 1997 MB *G-wagen* as I have been seeing it referred to is not quite 
accurate. The new MB/USA produced car is more of an all-purpose van (APV) and 
drawings of same are being seen more frequently in the press. It is quite 
vanlike, unibody-ish, and hardly something that is in any way like any current 
Land Rover - or G-wagen for that matter. And, Land Rover's latest *secret* car 
is a similar vehicle (designed earlier, of course) due to be launched 
(surprise) at the same time!

Also, the G-wagen is kinda neat for what it is - functionally it is similar to 
a mid-sixties 109 SW, but with diff-locking available side to side. 

Neat? Yeah. But for 116 GRAND? Not so neat. Get a mid-sixties 109, put ARB's 
front and rear, and invest the left over 100K you'll still have left!

Cheers
Jim
roverheadus nutsoum focusatum

jpappa01@interserv.com

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 95 22:15:53 PST
Subject: Re: 	Montero pricing

To those who speaketh of false economy:

Read about the compo w/chero/disco/mitsu. The Montero is not a very nice piece 
in my opinion. It is confused, twitchy, and v-e-r-r-y tinny. A Montero SR 
w/bells lists for almost 39 thou! Yes, unlike Disco at this time, you can get 
a pretty healthy discount. But, at trade in time, it will be worth dog squat! 
This will way surpass the original discount. This is what rover wannabes 
should realize while lamenting the high initial purchase price. Your 
investment is protected about as good as a vehicle can get. We're retailing 
(and getting) 1990 Rangeys for 22-24 grand. Remember this car went for about 
38 grand new back then. Pretty damn good value retention, no? We just traded a 
1992 Montero towards a new Disco and allowed the owner $14,000 - and he was 
happy! And that was full book! So much for the sticker discounted *great 
deal.* Caveat emptor!

Jim
roverheadus goodtimum anydayoweekus

jpappa01@interserv.com

------------------------------

From: Kelly Minnick <minnick@joker.chinalake.navy.mil>
Subject: Poppin'
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 95 22:16:25 PST

RE: popping engine
My '73 88" with a 2.25L P I towed home when I bought it.  It had been sitting
for about 13 years.  Since they had the top off and had a goat, anything
rubber was gone! (gee golly batman.  why did they make this turn signal stalk
so flimsy!).  I could not get the silly thing running.  Made funny popping
and coughing noises.  Rebuilt the carb.  Only better coughing noises (I only
like GOOD noises).  Finally, I thought the valves must be burned or somthing.
Measured the compression - 40 psi on all cylinders with or without oil...
This is strange... Naw can't be.  Yup.  pulled the timing cover off (after
dropping the pan) to find that the timing chain adjuster cylinders' little
*anti-retract* pawl had fallen out.  This adjuster is a VERY poor design
as far as this mechanical engineer is concerned!  The pawl is a hardened
steel piece pressed into aluminum.  No other method is used to retain the pawl.
Hence, when the engine diesels (runs on after shut-off) and runs backwards,
it loads the timing chain in the wrong direction and puts stress on the pawl.
I ran this vehicle about 2500 miles before I decided to restore the vehicle.
On pulling the timing chain off, I noticed that the pawl fell out when I tipped
the adjuster over.  Hmm... Glad it didn't fall out out in Death Valley at 106F!
They make a new style adjuster now that is suppose to be much better...  The
Zeusus gear thing is the best solution, but at $300 US, I'm too cheap!  Another
thing with this heater problems.  This vehicle sat with straight water in its
coolant passages.  The heater core was plugged.  This can be swapped out
(sIII or Kodiak) for about $40... Hard to heat up the cabin if we're not
flowing the water!

Well, don't know if this helps.  Start with the suggestion from the other
message about the plug wires.  Since the problem started with the noise,
though, I doubt it's a miss-placed plug wires.
Kelly Minnick  '73 88" Safari
Ridgecrest, CA

ps - only the top left to paint!  And I'm getting a tropical!

------------------------------

From: Kelly Minnick <minnick@joker.chinalake.navy.mil>
Subject: Hi-Ratio Box
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 95 22:37:20 PST

RE: High Ratio transfer box
I belive L.E.G.S. in England makes a Hi-Ratio transfer box.  But if my poor
memory serves me, you loose in low-range...  I do know that you can mate
a pre-'65 transferr box to a sIII transmission and get a 50:1 low range
without any affect on the hi-range.  Pretty cool eh? (no, I'm not Canadian-
just went to school with them!). Great for rock crawling.  I want a LT77
hooked up to my transfer box.  Asked Ian Ashcroft (sp?) but got no info.
This will give you great high and excellent lows.  Guess I wasn't much help.
Have fun!
Kelly Minnick  '73 88" Safari
Ridgecrest, CA

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 1995 02:06:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: IIA transmissions

Bramen plays with his tranny...

> While I was working on my emergency brake, I noticed that there was about
> a
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> rear
> bearing that I could tighten up without pulling the transmission. The box
There are shims between the speedometer pinion housing and the transfer box
but I believe they only take up the end float in the output shaft. If you
have that much play, chances are the rear bearing is worn.

> is also a bit noisy, in addition to the normal gear whine there is a sort
> of rushing noise in first and reverse. Does this indicate major problems,
> or will it limp along for a while? Sooner or later I'll end up rebuilding
> it anyway, but I really don't have the time until the summer.

More than likey sooner. The "rushing sound" could be just worn gears but if
that bearing in the transfer box is bad you'll want to replace it before
things get worse. Same thing happened to my SerIII about five years ago,
except by the time I noticed it, the bearing was non-existant. Had to do a
total re-build of the transfer case. 

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Jan 95 01:46:12 CST
From: bfreeman@heartland.bradley.edu (Benjamin Freeman)
Subject: 1992 Defenders?

Well as you all know I Benjamin Freeman up here in Seattle, WA
have allways really wanted a RHD Landy...an something better 
than my existing Land Rover..for those who have seen my LR that
is quite an upward move..as such the recent posting sounds very
interesting...I hope to hear more about this soon..especially
since I called the number sent e-mail and sent a fax..:) Not to
be too careful...:) I will wait an see what the deal is..as I'm
sure others are as well. As such the case my be if one does comes
my way a shiny new RHD 110 :) I will be parting with my love
"Joanna" with all her spares...:( But if there my be anyone
interested in an original condition '73-88 in very nice condition
please contact me either by e-mail or by phone..(206)365-3514
this is a day or night
this will be a day or night number...I'm also presently out of
work these days'..:( I'm also persuing that ave.
I hope to hear from my fellow LR owners..:)
Sincerely,
Benjamin J Freeman
'73-88 

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 


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