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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Crashing 101
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 1995 09:54:44 UNDEFINED

Assorted folk say:-

\I may be wrong here,but I always thought that the rule when
\cornering was "Slow In Fast Out".In other words the one thing 
\you *dont* do is to take your clog off on a bend.The thing
\will run wide.Stick the aforementioned clog *down* however,
\and it will hang its tail out and corner more tightly.
\Of course you can always overdo it,in which case it will
\spin.Tough.You entered the bend too fast in the first place,
\didnt you?

Nope. It depends very heavily on teh geometry of the vehicle. Your entry
and exit speeds are governed by the ratio of power/handling of your
vehicle. 

The more power, or the worse handling, the more you go for the Slow in Fast 
out line. You enter deeply, braking late, to a late, slow
apex, then blast out of the corner on a straight exit line. This allows
you to favour your power adn keep away from the handling problems. So
you take a very assymetric line thru the corner with maximum speed
variation.

A car with less power/better handling will optimally brake to an
earlier, faster apex, on a a more symmetric line. (To coast round a
corner you would take a perfectly symmetric, constant radius arc.)

As for throttle balance, this is an art form. Most modern cars (be they 
front- rear- or four-wheel-drive), including
my 90, are set up for understeer. This is safer for gits that
cant drive. In an emergency, they panic, close their eyes adn lock
solid. Wiht understeer, the car will probably catch itself. But this
means that, to provoke oversteer, you must load the front, unweight the rear, 
adn pendulum it, much like initiating a Christie turn on skis. So you lift
off  the throttle, adn reapply it monemtarily after turning in.

Only after this point will applying the boot make the car tighten up.
Before provoking oversteer, more throttle just makes it plough straight
on as the front wheels lose traction, and lifting off is most likely to make
it spin.

/As for Sefans comment about a four wheel skid being more dangerous than
/a two wheel one,I'm not quite sure what the paper meant.In fact,I'd
/hazard a guess that the reporter knew bugger all about it as well.  
/They dont usually impress me with their technical expertise.
/With a beam axled vehicle,a four wheel *drift* is possible,whether
/all four wheels are powered or not.Again,as Tom rightly says,an empty
/icy car park will prove most instructive and enjoyable.I've never
/managed a four wheel drift with independant front suspension only,
/but used to thoroughly enjoy the manoeuvre in my 1931 MG.I hasten to
/add at about four in the morning,with *no* other traffic about,and a
/nice greasy road surface.Ok,I know,a Range Rover it wasnt,but the
/effect was there,and provided suitable intelligence is applied,I'm

Any car can be set up for front, rear or four wheel drifts as desired. It
requires the correct throttle balance adn gentling the steering wheel at
teh right time. Depending on teh car, it can be easy or hard. Minis
understeer like hell adn are front wheel drive, but I could set mine up
to corner with the rear wheels sliding all round the corner; but it was
hard work.

\I think it's naive in the extreme to expect a vehicle in the 1 to 2 tonne
\range range with immense wheel articulation and permanent 4WD to handle
\like a 750kg road car. Four wheel drives need a different approach to
\driving and some experience to drive at the limit. The trouble is, many
\drivers don't even seem to know they are at the limit.

Four wheel drives (particularly with wide torque curves) benefit from
left foot braking. Balancing the brake against the throttle entering a
corner allows me to balance the 90 to hang all four, or just the rears
depending on where I am going adn how I want to get there. It's natural 
tendency is to front wheel drifts:( 

wide torque curves to minimise shifts)

In the end event, the only way to find how to do this stuff is to try it
adn listen to the car talk to you. Find an empty parking lot (preferably
covered in snow) and try it. If you cant control a vehicle with the
wheels drfiting nearly as fluently as with them fully attached, you are
not a safe driver, cos you will cock up if (when) you exceed the traction limits
unexpectedly.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Emissions
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 1995 09:57:41 UNDEFINED

\I went to the official Ca state referee station today;  they inspected the
\rover, gave it a smog test and then gave me a waiver because I failed.
\results:  pcv system-pass, carberetor-pass, other emissions related
\components-pass (I don't think this applies, all I needed was a pcv valve).
\2500 rpm:  HC ppm 0169, CO% 0.30, CO2 13.1, O2 2.5
\no requirements for me at 2500 but they test anyway!
\
\Idle rpm (unknown what speeds are officially valid but I think something
\like 750-1100)  my test done at 1078.
\HC ppm  0501  (500 allowed) <--FAIL
\CO%    3.00%  (5.50 allowed)
\CO2 12.7
\O2 0.8
\
\So, I failed for 1 ppm HC.

I had the first emission test since my timing gear conversion. The figures 
were unbeleivably low. The mechanic had to get his machine checked...........

I was gobsmacked. Emissions test hold no fear for me now, cos the timing's 
fixed for life.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

Date: 18 Jan 95 05:22:55 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Interesting Ad

> ...snip...
> ENGINE: 170 HP 6.5 LITRE TURBO DIESEL V-8
> ...snip...
> ENGINE: GAS 6 CYLINDER ...<snip>...
> ...etc...

What kind of funky engines are those???  Can't be Rover ... neither BMW
 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Jan 1995 06:33:51 -0500
From: Jimmy Patrick <jimmyp@cksp.demon.co.uk>
Subject: random rants

LROs,

I have gotten most of my electrical problems sorted now. PO wired the thing
completely wrong. The alternator positive lead was wired to the fuse box
and then right back to the coil. Hence no off switch. in fixing that little
blunder, I broke the ammeter cicuit. Anyone know where the ammeter should
be connected. All my wiring diagrams show either a dynamo/ammeter combo or
an alternator with no ammeter. Any ideas?

Also I have a squeaking noise that I would like to know about. It seems
that when I go from engine pulling to engine braking, I get the sqeaking
noises of 50-60 large mice. Anyone ever hear this one? Where should I look
to trace this one down? Or is it normal for a 35 year old?

I got new Trac Edge 7.50x16s yesterday and they make an incredible
difference over the old crossplys. No more leaping into other lanes for me.
I guess the general concencus is that they will perform well off-road as
well. We'll have to see about that.

"The you must be dreaming (again) department..."
Wouldn't it be cool if the Camel Trophy had a WWW page that was updated
daily? taking advantage of the latest digital technology etc... Some of the
reporters on the trophy must use digital cameras and laptops right...
Sattellite uplinks from the middle of Central America... And there is
certainly an audience out here to look at the pages each day... Get the
Camel name out here on the internet...
"wake up!"

Sorry to natter on that way!

cheers,

Jimmy Patrick

--

CKS|Partners                                            0344-382114
Advertising & Marketing Communications            fax   0344-303192
                                                  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Jan 95 06:09:19 PST
From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
Subject: Re: Prince of darkness, 

All, 

Looks like the electrically prince has struck the Range Rover, Twice this week 
the fuse to the fuel pump has blown. In the N.E we have had excessive 
moisture, wonder if that has caused it ?? Any ideas where to start, I presume 
that this must be short somewhere in the fuel pump electrics. I have replaced 
the 10 amp fuse with a 15amp, seems to hold so far. 

Any ideas where start anyone ????

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Jan 95 09:47:27 EST
From: robdav@sunshine.vab.paramax.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re:  The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Yes, there are new 90 and 110s somewhere in North America that will be sold
in the US at arounf $16,000.  To the best of my knowledge these vehicles
are being sold by a company called Autobus and are brand new, having been
purchased on a Blanket Purchase Agreement (BPA) to the US Federal Government.
Having once been acting software branch chief of Diplomatic Security at the
Department of State, I made some inquiries to try and find the source of these
vehicles to circumvent the 25 to 30% markup and to try to purchase just one.
Those contacted, at State and within the office of the Inspector General tell
the following:
That the vehicles are outside the Federal Property Disposal System(s) within 
DoD and other "official" organizations, so to my knowledge only a few select
individuals know where the vehicles actually are and what organization is
selling them.   Autobus was probably contacted by the seller to act as a broker.
Autobus (and there may be others) may not want to deal with "joe public" and
may be offering the vehicles in lots of 15 so that dealers and organized groups 
will make the purchase(s).  And the Rangers bought some Land Rovers back in
1992 and other federal/sudo-federal organizations were allowed to buy from
the Army BPA.  Some Clandestine group may own then (Delta Force or CIA) that
disposes of there own equipment.  The vehicles could also have been part of an
international force that has been disbanded.  It was thought that at one time
there was going to be "international" forces after the Gulf War, but I have
not talked to anyone who admits to this.
In the paperwork I believe that if you as a buyer find the source of the LRs
and buy one without going through Autobus (may have mispelled this), then
you still owe Autobus the difference from what you paid and what Autobus 
will ultimately sell them for. That is if you sign up with Autobus to but LRs
and find out the mysterous seller and but your LR cheeper than the $16,000
or so, then you owe Autobus the difference. (can't type try again)
That is if you sign up with autobus to buy a defend
, but locate the source of the Land Rovers and buy one for say $12,000,
then Autobus wants $4,000 and is prepaired to sue to get it.
(Hope this is understandable bad typing today)
Anyone have any more accurate/ additional info?
R&D

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Jan 95 09:52:53 EST
From: robdav@sunshine.vab.paramax.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re:  The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Well gang:
Just may crank up the Mercruiser this evening.  I finshed the
Alternator and idler brackets Monday.  If things go well during
the remaining evenings this week, there may be a transplant
going in this weekend.  127 ft. lb. torque and 140 hp - Mercruiser 140.
I apoligize for all my typing mistakes.  I get distracted at work and
this leads to typing errors.  When I later read what I have typed I
become my worst critic.
Will keep you posted on the conversion.
R&D

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Prince of darkness,
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 95 7:14:43 PST

I have found that Land-Rover likes to use wireing as lock-washers.
I have found 4 or five of these 
In my rover the Fuel pump is accessable from the cargo area. That
would be the first place to look. The area around the electrical
connectors collects a lot of dirt, and moisture.

Russ
91 R-Rover
94 d-90
> All, 
> Looks like the electrically prince has struck the Range Rover, Twice this week 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> Any ideas where start anyone ????
> Mark

------------------------------

From: Bill Yerazunis <crash@icad.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 1995 10:16:05 +0500
Subject: Disco availability

Re: that fellow who was looking for a dealer with Discoverys in stock:

Try Foreign Motors West, in Natick, MA.  617-235-9096 will get you the
main office; the LR subgroup has a different number which I don't have here.

If you're in Darien, CT, you're about three hours drive away.
	-Bill (94 Discovery, 25Kmiles)

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: D-90 prince of darkness problems.
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 95 7:29:32 PST

I think I may have isolated one of my Lucas/Electrical problems.
It seems that Landrover mounted the ECu computer with a stud from
the Heater unit. The stud is about a quarter of an inch to long, and
was stressing the connector. I installed a couple of washers to keep the
stud from pressing on the ECU connector and my chech engine light has
stayed off.

Russ
91 R-Rover
94 D-90  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Jan 95 10:52:08 EST
From: robdav@sunshine.vab.paramax.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re:  The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

More on the new 1992 90s and 110s.  For those of you ready to buy,
keep in mind the wording of the advertisement: "ALL VEHICLES ARE BUILT
TO MILITARY SPECIFICATIONS WITH CALIFORNIA EPA AND DOT APPROVAL".  This
sentenance actually means that the EPA and DOT does not disapprove of the
specifications that the military uses for its vehicles.  It also does
not mean that the vehicles are DOT and EPA approved, because the military
is exempt from EPA and DOT standards.  I suspect that these vehicles are
not EPA and DOT approved.  If they were within any Federal Disposal System
and were not EPA/DOT approved then they would be scrapped.  Scrapped could
mean cut up with a tourch and later melted down to form something else.
These vehicles could exist, there is no doubt, but does anyone know where
they are?
R&D

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Jan 1995 11:07:57 -0500 (EST)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Heaters

I have a '67 88 that's RHD that still has the original Smiths 
heater.....heater is a very generous description of this thing. What I 
need to know is if anyone has any ideas about a ggod replacement for this 
thing. I've seen the Mansfield heater in the Rovers North cat.  I love 
being warm as much as the next guy but that little operation would cost 
a bit more than I wanted to spend.  Does anyone know of another heater 
type that would work in a Rover? Thanks for any help.

Russ

------------------------------

From: "Mugele, Gerry" <Gerry.Mugele@wellsfargo.com>
Subject: Gelandewagens
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 95 08:15:00 PST

For Mike Rooth:

Mike a few days ago you had some unkind words for the "G-Wagon".  Over here, 
in the colonies, we don't get to see many of these yet.  They are not 
"certified" for sale by the federal gummint and therefore are always here in 
questionable status.  I didn't even know the things existed until about ten 
years ago.

Being a fan of M-B products as well as L-Rs....owned examples of both for 
the last 25 years...before the reintroduction of L-R to the U.S. market, I 
was thinking that eventually I'd hafta get a Gelande, say a 300D SWB.  Now, 
in the digest, I've seen consistently disparaging remarks.  What gives? 
 What's wrong with these things?   (Yes I have been crazed enough to 
consider a Unimog, but those things are just a little to bizarre (and over 
priced) even for me.)  Now I understand that M-B plan to build the G-Wagon 
in the U.S. somewhere and that they will hit the market here in about '97 or 
'98...so please tell me why I should stop hoarding my $s and go get that 
used 90 from the little old lady down the street.:-)

Thanks
Gerry     '72 88" SW

------------------------------

From: "Mugele, Gerry" <Gerry.Mugele@wellsfargo.com>
Subject: For Barry Dudley
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 95 08:41:00 PST

Hi,
I had a 67 Series IIa 88" with a massive skid plate from radiator to rear 
propeller shaft.  The plate attached to the chassis at eight points and 
greatly improved the rigidity (according to an engineer friend, I couldn't 
tell by driving it) and caused some cooling problems at low speed with 
ambient temps around 28 degrees C.  I had my other L-R's in some really 
rough country and bumped the diff's a few times and the sump once or twice 
and I've high-centered it a half dozen times.  No damage beyond the 
cosmetic.

With the skid plate I found that the oil leaks combined with other material 
picked up from the road and fields caused a considerable build up of crud on 
the upper surface of the plate and created quite a fire hazard.  (I did have 
one minor conflagration, but that's another story).  The plate also made 
roadside repairs considerably more of a pain.  I'd recommend against unless 
you know you're going to encounter some specific hazard that will likely 
cause permanent damage.  I'd rather just be a little more careful about 
traversing the really rough spots and try to keep the sharp pieces from 
coming into contact with my beasts underside.

And as an aside...would you know a character in the Natal area name of Bill 
Cairns?  When I last heard of him he was at the U of Natal.  That was back 
in the 60s.  His family had a farm somewhere in the vacinity of 
Pietermaritzberg (spelling?).  He was exchange student to the US in 61-62 
and stayed with my family.  Any information you might find would be 
appreciated.

Thanks,
Gerry  72 88" SW

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: I'm mad as hell - the sequel
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 95 09:21:00 EST

As Jim Pappa so rightly says, the problem with vehicle safety (or Assault 
rifles or sexual orientation or ..............) is the media. One only needs 
to be involved directly with something they report upon to realise that, be 
they the National Enquirer, New York Times or national TV, the written word 
bears scant relation to the actual event. A good example is the recent 
Pentium Fault fiasco. Will you die in your Range Rover or have a life 
threatening fault in your PC? Did they use Pentuims when designing the 
Discovery?
Remember before launching into a long discussion or passing an "educated " 
opinion, the media are really only selling a ciculation to their advertisers 
not bringing you the news. It has even been suggested that on a slow day 
they will create the news themselves. I cannot believe they would stoop so 
low, but then I'm rather naive.

Trevor Easton        TEASTON@dqc2.dofasco.ca   

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 18 Jun 1994 17:55:43 +0200
From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl)
Subject: Re: John Craddocks

>Can anyone give me the fax number for John Craddocks? I have been

Tel: 
+44 543 57 72 07
+44 543 50 54 08

Fax:
+44 543 50 48 18

Terje Krogdahl
'72 88"

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Club Memberships
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 95 12:49:00 EST

Further to Dixon Kenners note. I am editor of the Toronto Area Rover Club 
news, a one year membership which gets you six issues of Land Rover and 
Rover news is $22 Canadian or $16 US. Send to:-
Toronto Area Rover Club
c/o  Philip Rodriques
17 Gordonrock Court,
Scarborough, ONTMIW 3S9 (Please mention Internet referal)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Jan 1995 12:29:17 +0800
From: William.Grouell@Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Emissions

> I had the first emission test since my timing gear conversion. 
none

  Is this the gears and shaft that replace the cam drive chain? If so,where do
I get one? How much?

Regards, Bill G.

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Smog update 
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 1995 13:43:59 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <199501180420.UAA08924@bullwinkle.ucdavis.edu>you wrote:
  
> Important for CA people.  If you fail SMOG in 1995, you must now spend $450
> to fix it. If you cannot get the vehicle to pass, you are given a one time
> exemption. I don't know what happens after that.

	Is this for all cars or cars built after a certain date?  When I 
first looked into this, there was a sliding scale of how much you had to 
spend to attempt to get it to pass smog before you could give up and
get the exemption.  As I recall the max is/was about $300 for current cars,
but $0 for my 1972.  And pre 1968 cars were exempt from Smog.

-Benjamin Smith
----------------
 Science Applications International Corporation
 China Lake Naval Air Warfare Center
 bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil
 1972 Land Rover Series III 88

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Jan 1995 21:04:41 +0000
From: Steve Firth <steve@firthcom.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Disco '95 changes?

From: "Neil E. Villacorta" writes

>Can a Disco with the BIG V8 be purchased/special ordered for pickup in
>the UK?  I'd like to travel in the UK with one and ship it to the US,
>similar to the BMW European Delivery Program.

There are companies in the UK that do conversions on the Disco to increase
engine capacity. Some bore out the 3.9V8 others change the crankshaft to
give a longer stroke, the best (most rugged) option seems to be putting in
the LT1 from the Camarro. In each case you are paid for your original 3.9
and you pay the difference in prices (+ fitting). I doubt that you will be
able to import these conversions easily since they are not to US spec.

If you (or anyone) is interested, send mail and I'll forward what details I can.

--
Steve Firth, '81 109" 2.25 petrol LWB Safari.
steve@firthcom.demon.co.uk
--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Jan 1995 16:52:26 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Camel Trophey 95

I just received a call from my dealer.  He has arranged for me to receive 
a copy of the Camel Trophy 95.  You might want to check with your local 
dealers to see if they too have a copy.  I have made a deal that if I 
lend him my rebuilt 88 IIA, he will let me drive a Disco or Discouvery.  
Not a bad trade I should think!  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Subject: Messages sent to the list should  be addressed to lro@team.net
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 95 18:09:05 -0500
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

------- Forwarded Message

          id AA13189; Wed, 18 Jan 1995 15:06:08 -0600
          id AA17158; Wed, 18 Jan 1995 15:06:06 -0600
From: Kumaravel Natarajan <nataraja@cig.mot.com>
Subject: Rover Owner Wannabe has some questions...
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 1995 15:06:05 -0600 (CST)
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
Address: 1501 W Shure Drive, IL27, Arlington Heights, IL 60004 USA
Phone: +1 708 632 2328
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.4 PL21]
Content-Type: text
Content-Length: 2475      

Hi all.  I've been reading the digest for the last 6 months or so and
wanted to learn as much as I can before buying a Land Rover.  I've
been buying books and magazines that I can get my hands on over the
last year and have been absorbing as much as I can from there as well.

I will be transferring to Swindon, England for about a year in less
than a month...as soon as the work permit comes through.  (I currently
live in the Chicago area.)  I've got a number of questions I'm hoping
you folks could help me with.  I'm still a newbie, so please bear
with me as I ask you some silly questions...

My main question is: Is it worth it (money-wise) to bring a Rover over
from the UK, or should I go to a US dealer such as Rover's North, or
Roverworks to buy a used one?

If the answer is "yes, import it", then I've got a bunch more
questions:

I've read "LRO Intl" and have seen the hundreds of ads for shops in
England which will refurbish the Rover of your choice and prepare it
for export.  Can anyone recommend any honest, reliable export places
in the UK that do good work?

I'm really leaning towards a LWB SII.  I know it's much easier to import
vehicles built before 1967.  But if I wanted to bring in a LWB SIII or
a 110, does anyone know how much harder that would be?

But should I go with a 2.25 petrol or the diesel engine?

My likes of the diesel are it's better economy, simplicity (no
ignition stuff, or carb to worry about), torque (for any heavier
towing), and wading ability (don't know how much I'll worry about
this).

The gas should give me better acceleration (acceleration? can you use
that word when talking about Rovers?), be easier to get, and should
cause me fewer starting problems in the winter.

Did I miss anything?  Could anone add to the advantages/disadvantages
of the gas vs. diesel question?

It will definitely be my 2nd car, so I'm not THAT concerned about
reliability but I'd still like to be able to drive it cross-country
without getting stuck in the middle of nowhere without a paddle.  (I'd
like to think I've read this group long enough to know about Rovers
and their quirky temperaments, and of course, the prince of darkness -
Lucas.)  But, which engine would be a more trouble-free engine?

I'm sure I'll have more questions as I start (hopefully) getting some
answers to these.  I will have internet access when I'm there, so I
will probably be asking up until the time I buy (should it be worthwhile
to do it.)

Thanks!

Vel

------- End of Forwarded Message

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Jan 1995 00:36:49 +0200 (METDST)
From: S|ren Vels Christensen <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: Re: Heaters

On Wed, 18 Jan 1995, Russell U Wilson wrote:

> I have a '67 88 that's RHD that still has the original Smiths 
> heater.....heater is a very generous description of this thing. What I 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> type that would work in a Rover? Thanks for any help.
> Russ

Hi
I have heard/read that the Kodiak but i haven't tried it myself. But i
have been thinking of improving the heating system. Tap rebuild, new hoses
and perhaps drilling nozzles could improve the heating (sIII Smiths). Next
step: buying two electrical defrosters, taking out the heat coils, putting
them in a suitable length of alu-tube, replacing the connecting hoses to
the defrosters with the beforementioned assy. Then maybe a 5mm fitting in
the tubes with a plastic hose leading to the sides defrosting the side 
windows, -especially the "not"-steering side. I'm using 150x200mm truck
mirrors. Perhaps 3mm fitting on the top of the back plate and a 3mm hole
on the bottom. A plastic hose connectet as before. Mirror defrosting.

My brothers sIII 88" has an electric fan with an on/off toggle switch 
inside. He also has a radiator muff. Not only does the engine heat up 
faster and run more economic, - it also improves heating significantly. 
In fact he had to remove one side of the muff because his feet got fried!
The fan came off a totalled Fiat Ritmo and cost next to nothing. What about
summer? The previous owner employed the fan only twice last summer when he
came off the motorway into the city (Copenhagen has more traffic ligths than
intersections). I'll get one too.

Do you have draught? I have to align the doortops. All the heat is going out
through the unoriginal vents in the back. Perhaps i will rivet some 
tube-type rubbers on by the doors. Get them cheap in various standard 
lenghts at any parts/tool shop. 

BTW, -perhaps some electric mirror heaters from a totalled Nipper would
be better. The hot air can be used in the cabin instead. 

When i got my landy it already had an electric defroster in the back. It's
nice to be able to see which type of cars you can get with the trailer hook.

Enough heat for now..

+----------------------------+--------------------------------+
| Soren Vels                 | 1976  sIII  109"   2.25 petrol |
| velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk     | "Lawrence of Arabia"           |    ((|||))
| Royal Danish Air Force     | Dansk Land-Rover Klub no. 3564 |   ((|||))
| Communications Specialist  | DL-RK: Approx. 1000 members.   |    ((|||))
+----------------------------+--------------------------------+__((|||))______
 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Jan 95 16:51:36 MST
From: rhcaldw@nma.mnet.uswest.com ( ROY CALDWELL )
Subject: TEST

Hi People,

Just a test.  Seems as if US Worst is not able to
keep the e-mail on line any better than dial tone.

Please ignore.  Thanks!

Roy - Rovers in the Rockies    Again! No mail.

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Heaters
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 95 16:09:08 PST

> On Wed, 18 Jan 1995, Russell U Wilson wrote:
> > I have a '67 88 that's RHD that still has the original Smiths 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> > type that would work in a Rover? Thanks for any help.
> > Russ
If the intake for the heater is the fender vent as on the 90, you could
reroute the intake o you suck cabin air instead of Fresh.
This would give you a recirculation heater.

Russ Burns

------------------------------

Date: 18 Jan 95 19:29:08 EST
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Steering relays etc.

The sreering relay can easily be serviced in position, this is preferable to
damaging it when trying to remove it from the chassis.

 remove the steering arms, remove the bottom plate which is secured by 4 screws.
carefully push the shaft downwards. DO NOT HAVE ANY PARTS OF THE ANATOMY UNDER
THE SHAFT.
As the phenolic bearings start to appear  place a hose clip around the bearing
and tighten it up. This will prevent the bearings from being flung out by the
STRONG SPRING. keep pushing the shaft and as the top bearings appear place a
hose clip around them too.
 
 The assembly can then be serviced, Exercise  care in removing the bearings.  If
the hose clips are carefully relased a little at a time at each end the spring
load can be reduced.

 Reverse the procedure for fitting.

 I have seen vehicles in which the relay was  free to move in the housing, I'd
rather have a tight housing.

Whilst on the subject of relays the security of the steering arms is critical to
the minimisation of steering play,  the lower arm is   notorious for coming
loose in off roading conditions, and if ever left loose for any length of time
the splines are badly worn, exacerbating the problem.

 Now at last I know what Bill Caloccia does all day" he plays with his digits "

John Craddocks fax. number is  44 1543 504818.  ( note for all non UK readers
all  UK phone numbers are changing soon with the addition ofa 1 in front of the
area code.  The new numbers can be used now. Change all those little black
books.)

 Regards  Bill Leacock     Limey in exile. ( its now 3 weeks since I last saw a
real Land Rover. boo hoo!!

------------------------------

From: John Hong/C/HQ/3Com <John_Hong@3mail.3Com.COM>
Date: 18 Jan 95 16:35:48 EDT
Subject: Photo exchange...

Gosh...shucks...Thanks John Hess and Bill Maloney for the nice comments about 
my photo.

Anybody else interested in swapping photos?  Send me one and I'll send you one 
back!
(Craig Murray - it is in the post!)

John Hong
POB 2697
Santa Clara, CA 95055
USA

------------------------------

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Update on the Diesel
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 95 12:17:42 EDT

Hi all,
        I finally got my diesel tuned, it turns out that my valve timing 
was out to the billeo!  So now my diesel does not blow AS MUCH smoke, and 
actually has power now!!!  Also, my gear box is not as noisy as you all 
think, as now the motor knocks away, and you can bearly hear the gear 
box, so this means I now have to get around to putting some sound 
deadening the engine bay!! but a plus is that my milage should go up from 
20 Miles(Imperial) per gallon!

But disaster struck at 11:30 on Saturday night, the bit that the bolts 
into to hold the pully on water pump, fell off!!  Luckilly I was near a 
mates place, so I temporary fix, and left the rover at his place over 
night, has any-one tried to belt that a bit on the spindle of a water 
pump, while it is still on the vehicle, if you wish to try it, I advise 
you not to, as you will just end up tearing all of your hair and that of 
every one around you out!!!  But I have replaced the water pump know so 
hopefully everything will be alright for a while (fingers crossed!!!)

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |

------------------------------

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Gearing up a IIA
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 95 12:03:35 EDT

Hi all,
        My brother would like to know if you can get a set of transfer 
gears for a IIA the will give a Higher high range with out effecting low 
range gearing, as in one of the recent LRW's, they said that they had a 
set of transfer gears made up.  Any Ideas, I believe personally that you 
can only get such gears for the Range Rover, Stage 1 and 90, 110 transfer 
cases.

==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Jan 1995 22:59:48 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Photo exchange...

On 18 Jan 1995, John Hong/C/HQ/3Com wrote:

> Gosh...shucks...Thanks John Hess and Bill Maloney for the nice comments about 
> my photo.

	No comment... :-)  Methinks Bill about covered it with his comments
	(The photo arrived today... ROFL)

	Rgds,

	PS.  Rather nice Rover.  Looks to be in far better shape than most
	     I have seen.  You obviously have not been excersising your
	     pet enough... :-)

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 1995 00:28:19 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: random rants

Jimmy straightens out his wiring only to be infested with mice...

> I have gotten most of my electrical problems sorted now. PO wired the
----snip-----
> Also I have a squeaking noise that I would like to know about. It seems
> that when I go from engine pulling to engine braking, I get the sqeaking
> noises of 50-60 large mice. Anyone ever hear this one? Where should I look
> to trace this one down? Or is it normal for a 35 year old?

Jimmy.. I'm over 35 and hardly squeak at all! :-)

Oh, it the Rover that squeaks.. Just how large *are* these mice and where do
they seem to reside??

Any chance that your fan belt could be squeaking? Now that you've sorted out
the alternator wiring maybe you actually have an electrical load. That would
cause the alternator to "drag" and if the belt is glazed or loose, it could
squeak or squeal. 

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 1995 00:28:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Gelandewagens

Gerry..

Tell you what I've heard about the G-wagon (probably all lies, but what the
hey). From what I've been told, the bodywork is not built by Mercedes. I
believe it's the same company that did the all-wheel drive conversion on the
VW Syncro. The VW is nice to drive, but mechanically, it's a bit of a
nightmare. The same may apply with the G-wagon. I've also been told that the
G-Wagon is prone to rust. Another problem will probably be with parts. The
dealer will probably be able to supply engine parts, but maybe not much else.

I have seen two G-wagons nearby where I live, which is really suprising
since I live out in the sticks. There is a gent north of me who owns a SWB
G-wagon outfitted with a winch. He lives up in the hill country and says the
truck is great in the winter. The other truck is a LWB and is located more
towards civilization. The owner uses it to trailer some sort of BMW to car
shows. Both of these trucks look like they are pretty rust-free and run OK.

Just the same, save your money and stay with Rovers. :)

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 1995 00:28:45 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Heaters

Russ Wilson says it's cold in Pittsburg....

> I have a '67 88 that's RHD that still has the original Smiths 
> heater.....heater is a very generous description of this thing. What I 
> need to know is if anyone has any ideas about a ggod replacement for this 
> thing. I've seen the Mansfield heater in the Rovers North cat.  I love 

Russell Dushing has described his heater as "that piddley round thing" and
the "Smiths shinburner".. I guess you're not particularly impressed with it
either.. Well..   If you luck out, you might be able to find a Kodiak heater
for the Rover. Lots of heat. (I'll let you know when I get the '65 running!)
You might want to check out a J.C.Whitney catalog and see what's there. They
do sell heaters.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 


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