Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions

Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 00:10:17 -0800
From: jory@mit.edu (jory bell)
Subject: Re: Extra Fuel Tank

>As I have mentioned before, I am putting a second tank under the driver seat
>of my LHD '73 Safari.  I had to remove the seat box (which has dibbs on it)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>a special adaptor, but I would need some kind of special hoses to connect
>this.  Any ideas?

When I installed my second gas tank, I was in a rush, and got most of the
pieces from RN. Then jut cut the RHD filler tube and inserted a straight
piece to lengthen it... wors fine. I could look at it again if you want
more details/dimensions.

-jory
>Ridgecrest, CA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 05:16:49 GMT
From: Pierre Antony Ketteridge <ketteridgep@glub.demon.co.uk>
Subject: PROJECT 4X4XFUN

OK, y'all, it's Pierre here again, and I've been lumbered with some 
*more* charity work connected with offroading... NO! NO! Don't press 
'n' yet! They're *NOT* looking for donations, rather, they're looking for 
putting what they've already collected to charitable use! [Tho' I'm sure 
they wouldn't turn anything away!]

I guess this might be of more interest to the UK readership, but who 
knows. Basic background:

"Project 4x4xFUN" is a South Yorkshire-based, non-profit making, 
self-financing organisation which in 1994, through fundraising, raised 
the money and effort to fit out a Land Rover for disabled driver use 
(dual control, auto box, wheelchair storage, specially strengthened 
chassis & body etc) and who are now looking for ways to make its 
availability known to schools, youth organisations and disabled 
charities throughout the UK. 

The project has already prepared and adapted other 4WD vehicles for 
fund-raising international expeditions and challenges (both disabled 
and able-bodied), and hopes to enter the project vehicle in various 
prestigious rallies in the UK this year.

The sponsors and committee of "Project 4x4xFUN" have asked me to, 
through my industry contacts (both journalistic and computer-related), 
help bring awareness of the project and the facilities offered to a wider 
audience.

Well, the papermail stuff's straightforward enough - plenty of legwork, 
phonecalls, faxes etc on my part. I think that coverage of the project 
could initially make an interesting item in a "News" column of various 
newspapers, motorsport/leisure/educational/disability/motability 
magazines, with (hopefully) more in-depth  articles (with photos) once 
the facilities (vehicle maintenance workshops, supervised green laning, 
weekend safaris, loan-outs to other charity events etc) are being used 
effectively. There is also scope for more technical articles on the 
conversion of a 4x4 vehicle to this type of use.

What I'd like to ask the list is this: Apart from ideas for who to target 
media-wise, does anyone have any knowlege of suitable internet 
lists/digests, USENET newsgroups etc I could post such information to 
(No, *not* alt.flame!)? Email or post to digest any suggestions, please.

BTW, would the list/digest be interested in my stories of the 
conversions, transcontinental rallies etc? You just have to ask...

Thanks for any help you can give...

--
Pierre

OBTW before I get accused of blatant advertising, and in case there's 
any ambiguity, the project's not paying me anything for this (tho' if the 
glossies are interested, and stump up some lolly, it might offset my 
phone and stamp bills!).

-- 
Pierre

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 09:20:10 -0500
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: HO HO HONG!  etc

As I pound away at my keyboard, there sits in front of me a photo of a red 
topless III 88 with the tallest Korean I've ever seen with a red & green elf's 
hat and a Poinsettia plant in the spare tire (and a wreath on the late IIA 
galvanized grille).   Great picture, John.  From what I can see it is has a 
standard hood, no top or hoops, some sort of jerry can carrier in the back, 
lamp protectors front & rear, D-rings on the front bumper, NO CORROSION in the 
rear bed where the seatbelt brackets meet the bed, and hub seals that sling 
more oil than Ben Smith's 88 (but less than Steve Denis's 109).  My questions 
for John are:
1. What is the purpose of the 1" X 1/2" wooden stud bolted/glued to the top of
   your windscreen?
2. There seems to be a long boxlike object protruding under the LH seat.  It 
   looks too small for a fuel tank from this angle.  I'm puzzled.
3. Have you built some sort of storage box in the back?
4. What is that vertical tubular holder welded to your bulkhead just below the
   LH windscreen hinge?  A toilet plunger holder?
5. What is the pipe frame set up that is fitted into the hoop holes that 
   extends 2-4" from the body cappings?  A roll bar for the vertically 
   challenged?

"BAH HUMVEE"?  I like it!
-----------------------------

Pierre wrote about Rover conversions for the disabled:
I would be glad to hear of your postings, as a friend nearby who does frame up 
auto v-8 conversions on Rovers, lacks the use of his legs.  I'll copy and drop 
off any notes to that effect.  

Thanks.

------------------------------

Gordon asked about brake pedal pumping:
Have you bled ALL of the wheel cylinders?  Have a person in the driver's seat 
(prefferably with good hearing).  Check the manual as to where you start (I 
think it's with the closest clyinder 1st).  Yell "PRESS", they should press 
and hold the brake pedal to the floor.  You crack open the bleeder screw, then 
quickly close it.  Yell "RELEASE".  Repeat until you have clear, clean fluid 
with no bubbles.  Check & refill the master cylinder frequently.  It can empty
in as little as 4 strokes.  Continue with all 4 wheels.  Next adjust your 
brake shoes until they just begin to drag against the drums, then back off 
slightly.  You may want to pump the brakes a couple of times while doing this 
to equalize the shoes.  Hopefully, this should work.

The only other thing I can think of is a flexible brake line that is balooning 
out somewhere, but then it probably wouldn't be as hard as you said after a 
few pumps.

Good Luck!

Bill

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Jan 95 10:36:34 EST
From: robdav@sunshine.vab.paramax.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re:  The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Hello everyone:
I collect Land Rover Club grill badges, T-shirts, and window stickers.
If your club has these things (here called regalia) I would be interested
in buying them.  Please Post a response message to my address directly.
News on the Mercruiser conversion:
First, thanks to all that responded with comments from "may not be cammed
suitably" to "I want to drive it".
The engine is suppose to have suitable performance charasterics for
the Land Rover with 127 ft lbs torque and 140 hp at 4,500 rpms.
It is currently mounted in the front half of a bare 109 frame in the
garage.  Last weekend I finshed the motor mounts and fabricated a water
inlet/thermostat housing that places the water inlet in the exact same
location as the original (no radiator modification).  Found a flywheel
that will house the original 9.5" clutch.  Am building a manifold adapter
for the original manifolds.  Benefits: stock Land Rover exhaust, carb,
and air cleaner.  Carb will undoubtably need rejetting.
My remaining task is to fabricate the alternator mounts and test run
the engine in the frame with radiator and "breakfast" in place.
Since I have to finish up a 2.5 diesel conversion this weekend, the
transplant will probably not be installed until Jan 22.
My 2.25 diesel was rated at half the stock hp as this engine.
There will probably be some loss of hp with the rover manifolds &
carb, but with 140 to come down from there is no great concern.
So what if its only 125 hp (adout twice what my diesel had).
The engine a four cylinder, is actually shorter than the 2.25
leaving pleanty of room.
Will keep you posted on the progress.
R&D

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Jan 95 08:25:05 PST
From: Bruce Harding <Bruce_Harding@ccm2.hf.intel.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel Tank plumbing

Text item: Text_1

Kelly,

I have a second tank under the drivers seat.  I don't have 
the tanks tied together.  I run them to a manual fuel 
selector switch.  Mine has 2 hoses going to the tank...a 
vent hose that goes from the tank to the filler neck (1970 
not a closed system) and a filler hose.  The filler hose is 
the same as the right side, just slightly modified.  Take a 
standard filler hose and cut it in two in the middle (along 
the straight section).  Find a 6" pipe of approiate diameter 
for the filler hose.  Slip the now 2 piece filler hose over 
the pipe.  Rotate the 2 pieces of filler hose 180 degrees 
from the precut position.  Clamp the hose onto the pipe and 
you have a filler hose for the left side tank.

Good luck...24 gallons is better than 12.

Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com
70 88" Series IIA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 10:57:48 EST
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: Channels and brakes

Richard Wegner writes about his alternator fix and is curious about window channels.

Tell you what...tell me how to fix alternators and I'll tell you where to
get stainless steel window channel! :->

OK...The stuff works and looks *great*.  Rather than the felt/fungi/moss/
rust of the OEM steel type, the stainless slides on a track of Derlin, with
synthetic felt for the sides.  The Derlin in easily drilled so that SS
phillips sheet metal screws can be countersunk.  Try any ship chandler or
marine parts supplier.  If not, E-mail me direct and I'll give you the
number of a local supplier...but the stuff only comes in 8' lengths, single
and double track.

Gordon Rea writes about brakes, specifically needing five pumps to get a
pedal.  Ordinary (DoT) mineral-based brake fluids will dissolve the natural
rubber in older brake systems/seals.  Only Castrol/Girling LMA (glycerol
based) should be used.  However, British made seals have been manufactured
with neoprene for the past few years, so it isn't as much a problem as it
used to be.

However, you say that once you get a pedal, it stays hard, right?  No fluid
loss?  Then the seals are fine...its just that the brake shoes have worn
down or the drums are at or beyond maximum diameter.  You're having to pump
a lot of fluid to get the pistons to move far enough to engage the drums.
Any brake shop should be able to re-bond the shoes (locally $7.50 a shoe)
and turn the drums...if they havn't gone past 10.06".

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 09:58:57 EST
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: Alternators

OK...maybe the collective wisdom of the 'net can sort out the mysticisms of
Lucas electrics....

Last Friday, I carried an 18ACR alternator in to have it rebuilt.  The
symptoms: 13.8 volts at startup, gradually dropping in output without any
loads.  Voltage drops well below 12v if any load (heater fan, parking
lights, head lamps) are turned on.  Brushes are short the shop says amd
they rebuild the  alternator.   They say: bearings replaced (it *sounds*
like it), regulator replaced (there is a new "Lucas Transport" regulator in
there) and replaced the brushes (can't tell wothout disassembly).

Over the weekend...a new battery (the biggest Sears Diehard) was fitted.

Symptoms remain the same...voltage output falls off after a few minutes.
Even the "auxillary" voltmeter (the turn signal clickers) says the voltage
is dropping.  And I haven't even turned on the real voltage killers...the
pair of 150w driving lamps.

At the shop Tuesday morning, the alternator passes all the tests on the
machine...steady voltage (14.2v @ 1600 RPM) and the output (supposed to be
47 amps) measures as 45-46.  Run for 15 min, *NO* problems on the machine.
*Classic* examples of the Prince's handiwork.  The fan belt is relatively
new and properly adjusted, all contacts are shined up and the spade
terminals are all crimped/soldered connections.  Suggestions?

FWIW...there was a Hitachi alternator sitting on the counter - an almost
perfect match for the Lucas unit.  Fits Nissan fork lifts.  Smaller, higher
output, bottom brackets identical...if only the tensioner lobe were
relocated 30 degrees....

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 13:26:39 -0500
Subject: Disco vs. late RR

Kelley - Yes, the '89 RR has hidden door hinges, and it is a whale without
the front & rear stabilizers (Atlantic British sells a kit for about $1k).  I
have test driven new Discos quite a bit, considering a trade to new, but I
still prefer my old RR better (new RR's are a bit pricy).  The Disco's a
great car but it feels much more cramped on the inside (although the dealer
tells me that it's on the same frame as the RR).  The windsheild is smaller
and lower, the dash feels closer, and the rear seat (elevated above the
front) is much harder to enter.  I also prefer the spacious, fully retracting
sunroof of the RR to the much smaller and only partially opening sunroof(s)
of the disco.  Don't get me wrong, the Discovery's the best $30k 4wd out
there, but you can't beat the RR on or off the road. - Tony

------------------------------

Subject: Brake Booster
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 12:09:53 -0800 (PST)
From: "Kelly Minnick" <kminnick@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us>

RE: Vacuum brake boost line
I have a SIII with a vacuum brAke boost.  I am switching over to the single
barrel Webber carb, but the stock LHD brake boost pipe that comes off the
manifold does not clear the carb.  Is there a LR replacement part?  Do I just
bend my stock pipe?
Kelly Minnick  '73 Safari
Ridgecrest, CA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 12:27:27 -0800
From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: IBEX Newsletter

More IBEX fun!  I got an IBEX newsletter in the mail the other day 
(featuring my letter to John Foers [blush]).  No definite announcement or 
pictures of the IBEX replacement but expectation that it will be in 
"production" sometime this month.

The most interesting item was a separate article, complete with two 
pasted-in photographs, of a trip, last summer, to Val D'Isere, France, in 
the Alps, on the Italian border.  Four Ibices made the trip, including John 
and Christine Foers, owners of Foers Engineering, makers of the IBEX.  Nice 
article.  I may write to ask permission to send it in to the Aluminum 
Workhorse.  

This was the first such trip but is planned to be an annual event.  Couple 
of gnarly runs over the Alps into Italy and back.  Sure would like to get a 
Four by Four by Foers and join in on the fun!  

I plan to research (sometime) the rules for registering "kit" vehicles in 
the U.S. specifically in California.  Will probably post a question to the 
British Cars list, as there must be some Caterham Super-Seven owners and 
other British kit-car owners on that list.  If it is a simple matter of its 
being subject to the rules for the year of the engine installed, I would 
have to use a really old engine.  I was thinking that I could use an 
original Buick-Oldsmobile-Pontiac (BOP) aluminum V-8, which of course is the 
basis for the original Rover V-8.  This would keep it as Roverly as 
possible.  My preference would be to use a 3.9l efi V-8 from a Range Rover 
but don't want to have to install a catalytic converter if I can help it.

Well, enuff.
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
[ G.B.Pool(Redwood Vly, CA, USA)Appraiser,R/W Agent,Land-Rover aficionado ]
[ e-mail: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net ** Ph:(707)485-7220 H,(707)463-4265 W ]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 12:27:38 -0800
From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Four-wheeler of the year

Others have already commented on Four-Wheeler magazine's award to the 
Discovery and have pretty well covered it.  I just wanted to comment that, 
as far as I could see, there was no comparison of Ramp-Travel Index, an 
excellent measure of effective axle articulation invented by Four-Wheeler.  
Naturally the Disco would have won this and it won the award anyway but the 
comparison would still have been interesting, methinks.

Regarding the coverage of the Warn Trophy in Transylvania, I was glad to see 
it and especially to see the great pics of Pinzgauers (love the one with the 
external roll cage) and other exotics.  Just wish the fotos had been a 
little larger.  Could have eliminated those of Jeeps and Suzukis and FJ-40s 
to make more room for larger fotos of the Land-Rovers and other worthies... ;^}
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
[ G.B.Pool(Redwood Vly, CA, USA)Appraiser,R/W Agent,Land-Rover aficionado ]
[ e-mail: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net ** Ph:(707)485-7220 H,(707)463-4265 W ]

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Superbase!
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 95 12:23:00 EST

See PC Magazine , January 24 edition , page 242-243
Sorry I got the poster!!!

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Points-anyone
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 95 16:02:00 EST

Our 1962 SIIA also has an Crane/Allison ignition system. Prior to the engine 

rebuild it also suffered from fouled plugs, which was probably due to the
vast quantities of oil consumed via the bores (You could see into the sump
past the pistons). The electronic ignition was so effective that it burned
this oil with no smoke except when extremely loaded on long steep upgrades.
Otherwise the ignition is so good it will start on the coldest (-30c)
mornings the first touch of the starter. I only hope that having mentioned
this it will remain true. Suggest you check first for compression readings.
This can be done crudely using the starting handle, can you feel four
distinct pressure peaks as you turn the engine? Is the force equal on all,
four cylinders? etc. Re footwells etc Try raising the front of the vehicle
a couple of feet using axle stands when bleeding the fronts to remove all
air. Or back bleed by pumping fluid into the bleed nipple.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 17:05:37 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Brake Booster

On Tue, 10 Jan 1995, Kelly Minnick wrote:

> I have a SIII with a vacuum brAke boost.  I am switching over to the single
> barrel Webber carb, but the stock LHD brake boost pipe that comes off the
> manifold does not clear the carb.  Is there a LR replacement part?  Do I just
> bend my stock pipe?

	Many Land Rovers without the manifold drilled used a fitting
	coming off the adapter plate between the Zenith and the manifold.
	My adapter I am using for the Weber on the 88" is of this type, 
	while on the 109" is is the straight adapter without vaccuum
	fitting.  Bend the pipe, the adapter from LR isn't that cheap.

	Rgds,

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Brake Booster 
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 15:18:52 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

 On Tue, 10 Jan 1995, Kelly Minnick wrote:
 
> I have a SIII with a vacuum brAke boost.  I am switching over to the single
> barrel Webber carb, but the stock LHD brake boost pipe that comes off the
> manifold does not clear the carb.  Is there a LR replacement part?  Do I just
> bend my stock pipe?

	When I got my Webber, it also got an adaptor plate to mount it.  The
adaptor plate had a hole with a short (~0.5 inch) pipe coming out.  So I
attached the brake boost hose to this (actually I got a longe piece of hose
to do this (is was about 1 inch too short) and blocked the manifold hole
with a bolt.
	If you want to see what I've done give me a call W:927-1035 or 
H:375-3011.

-Benjamin Smith
----------------
 Science Applications International Corporation
 China Lake Naval Air Warfare Center
 bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil
 1972 Land Rover Series III 88

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 20:57:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Extra Fuel Tank

Kelly...

I have a '71 IIa in which the previous owner (who was also the original
owner) had installed a second tank. Like yours, he used a tank made for the
right hand side. This truck is currently in pieces (another Land Rover
jigsaw puzzle!) but I don't remember seeing anything special about the
filler. It has what appears to be a regular filler assembly on the body. The
hose from the filler neck to the tank *may* be longer than the one on the
main tank. 

As to the expansion tank ("bullet proof metal can")... My '71 and '72 both
have this "feature" so it's not exclusive to California. Along with the
expansion tank and charcoal cannister, the filler cap should be a sealed
type. The whole purpose of this is to prevent gasoline fumes from
evaporating into the atmosphere. (HeHeHeHe) Couldn't even hazard a guess if
CA emmisions tests will be able to tell if the aux tank is connected to it
but from what other people have said, when it's inspected, they want to see
that the canister is connected to something. 

ARB lockers.. Considering that you won't be using them unless you're really,
really stuck... you probably won't damage anything. You'll probably find it
difficult to steer with the front end locked in anyway. Locking diffs fore
and aft is nice... you have traction as long as *one* wheel is touching
something solid. If it was me, I would do only the rear and put the put the
$750 towards a good winch. Unless you have a good winch.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------

From: PAULGREG@MAINE.MAINE.EDU
Date:    Wed, 04 Jan 95 21:14:15 EST

Bretherin, I have a confession....
Late this past Maine summer, I did something kinda stupid.  Whilst installing
a pick-up cab on my '61 88, I covered the entire works with a plastic drop
cloth over the span of several weekends while misc. parts were enroute to me.
In that span of time, we had some rain and plenty of warm weather which
lent to the following effect: the combination of moisture, sunlight and
warm air temperature left stains BENEATH the original paint on the pickup cab!
Never mind it looks unsightly, because the rest of the vehicle has plenty of
patina worthy of its age.  What bugs me is these dumb stains on an other-
wise REAL clean roof are because of my oversight. Any clues or secrets

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: D-90 name
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 95 18:45:53 PST

> In the process of planning a trip with a friend Rick, and taking some ribing
> about slowing turning into one of those yuppie types we can up with a name.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 30 lines)]
> D-90 Sampsonite
> R-Rover
> --SAB05562.789792228/lint.cisco.com--

------------------------------

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: The antichrist, toro overdrives & an update on the diesel
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 95 14:22:07 EDT

Hi all
        Long time no type!

        1. The antichrist is 88" so that means that it is either a 57 or 
58 model.

        2. My brother was warned not to use a toro overdrive as the quality 
was not crash hot, the guy that warned him does not like the 5 speed for 
the same reasons, as it is derived from the santana 5 speed.

        3. I did the dispickable thing last week, I took my Landy to a diesel 
mechanic, so it could be tuned correctly, and it turns out that my valve 
timing is out, so hopefully next time I drive it, it will have this funny 
thing called power!!

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                    |       1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                      |       2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia            |       I slow for hills!
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                   |     but not of my own will

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 19:58:53 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Misc. tots

The movie I caught was Wild Geese II (1985), which may or may not be the same 
as the Codename: Wildgeese (1986) listed in the last AW.  Guess I'll have to 
pull up Cinemania to check this out...  (And for some reason, Silicon Valley 
Business had no sound when I replayed the tape.  8^(  )

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                               

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 19:59:00 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid

>Hows this for a survey question:
>How many pedal pumps does your LR need before the brakes kick in? 
none

Mine is only one, so far.  It does squeal, though, when first starting out.  

>losing much fluid either. Has anyone heard about needing this "Special"
>brake fluid? Also, when I finally get presure on the brakes and stand on

Yes, I was told the same thing.  It's BLM or LMF or something like that.  I'm 
sure someone here can tell you exactly.

>pedal, it STAYS hard and DOESNT slowly leak to the floor. Only when I have
>taken my foot off the brake and driven a few blocks do I have to pump up
>the brakes again. Bleed the brakes? Master cylinder? Use the handbrake
>to stop ? 

I think this means you need to bleed the brakes.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                               

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Jan 1995 19:59:04 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Misc. tots

Michael Loiodice knows what he's talking about...
>Bungee cord sounds about right... but I think you need a real light weight

But with a lightweight one, wouldn't it bounce around too much?

>one. It's either that or you build up big muscles in your right arm!!!

Is this bad?  <g>

>My "little" brother is a trucker, but I can't remember exactly how his mic
>is set up.. bungee cord sounds about right though...

I was thinking a spring might be better, but that could be very dangerous 
too.  I'm still working on this.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                               

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 11 Jan 1995 00:46:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Alternators

LUCAS!!!  Arrgghh.... Sandy relates his problem...

> Last Friday, I carried an 18ACR alternator in to have it rebuilt.  The
> symptoms: 13.8 volts at startup, gradually dropping in output without any
> loads.  Voltage drops well below 12v if any load (heater fan, parking
----snip----
> Symptoms remain the same...voltage output falls off after a few minutes.
----snip----
> At the shop Tuesday morning, the alternator passes all the tests on the
> machine...steady voltage (14.2v @ 1600 RPM) and the output (supposed to be
> 47 amps) measures as 45-46.  Run for 15 min, *NO* problems on the machine.

Well..... I've seen your truck, Sandy... So I can believe you when you say
the connections are clean and tight.. So, this has got to be something real
stupid... Have you checked the wires with a good ohmmeter?? High resistance
somewhere?? How's the ground connection(s). The strap from the frame to the
engine OK?? I ran a ground strap from the bolt that holds the battery ground
strap directly to the engine. None of this run around the frame bit. 

That's my two bits... Good luck!
Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 

World Wide Web Sites:
        http://whitman.gar.utexas.edu/roverweb/roverweb.html
        http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/

If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@chunnel.uk.stratus.com
-B

Back	Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.