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Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 05:46:35 -0500
From: Jimmy Patrick <jimmyp@cksp.demon.co.uk>

Gordon,

<snip>
>Most of the origional wiring has rotted away and has
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Both fuel tanks also leak ( I bought a third but it leaks also) and I lost
>the locking plate to my left front hub last weekend.

You sure know how to make a guy feel good. I though I had some problems.
Thanks for you input. Maybe you can contribute something everyday to cheer
me up.

Good Luck. I've been thinking about a complete electrical harness but that
looks like a lot of time and money...

Cheers,

Jimmy

--

CKS|Partners                                            0344-382114
Advertising & Marketing Communications            fax   0344-303192
                                                  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 11:34:49 GMT
From: kjartan@ejs.is (Kjartan)

subscribe lro-digest kjartan@ejs.is

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 11:41:44 GMT
From: kjartan@ejs.is (Kjartan)

subscribe lro-digest kjartan@ejs.is

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Jan 1995 09:39:23 EST
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: The Return of the Prince

Bollocks!  No sooner does someone mention alternator woes, than *mine*
starts acting up!  Puts out 13.8 volts for the first several minutes, then
drops off to 12 or so...."could be short brushes...could be the regulator"
said the auto electric shop.  Oh well, at least I can't blame it on Nigel
this time!

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 10:18:12 -0500 (EST)
From: Jody Allan Willoughby <jawillou@FLASH.LakeheadU.CA>
Subject: fan belt

what is the correct belt size (width&length) for my 1956 `86' side exhaust
valve 2-litre engine 

jody willoughby

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Jan 1995 11:05:36 EST
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: "A good day's work...."

Jimmy Patrick wrote:
>When I took it in to have it tested, they said it was too flat to test....

AHA! So *you're* to blame! ;->  No sooner does someone mention a malady
than it spreads through the 'Net like a virus!

I'll bet the flat battery is preventing the dynamo from charging.  It
doesn't really matter...both alternator and generator need some small
excitation of the field to charge.  If you can get it started (hand crank,
jump start or pop the clutch) try my lantern battery trick - hook the
positive 6 volt lead to the field wire and the neg terminal to the
case...assuming of course that you are negative ground!

In trying to remedy *my* alternator problem, I dismounted it last night and
plugged the on-board trickle charger in to boost the battery which had
dropped a bit in electrolyte specific gravity.  I got inside and turned the
key to bring the instruments (and especially the voltmeter) on-line to see
if the charger was puttin' out.  Then I noticed that the charge light was
off...that was to be expected...the leads were swinging free at that point.
Several articles (including one in the RN newsletter) have stated that if
the indicator bulb is burned out, the alternator won't charge, as if the
current is somehow flowing *from* the alternator *through* the bulb.  Then
it occurred to me, the necessary excitation voltage is flowing through the
bulb on the way to the alternator, because once up to speed, alternators
are self-exciting.  Eureka!  Maybe Lucas electrics *are* just common sense
like Mike said!  Then again....

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: John Hong/C/HQ/3Com <John_Hong@3mail.3Com.COM>
Date:  5 Jan 95 21:23:46 EDT
Subject: No Thanks, I like it this way.

HA HA HA

So I'm pulling outta my spot in the hardware store parking lot (after 
fulfilling my life long ambition to get 1/8 npt caps and plugs for my grease 
guns so I can carry the various hoses, fittings and bodies separately and not 
worry about getting grit in the grease!) and this guy cruising the lot says "
Hey, you looking for some body work for your jeep..."

Now I am nowhere near as sensitive to being called "Jeep" owner like a certain 
owsego-based list member is but the thought bubble "hmmm...should I give this 
guy a smart ass remark?" did flash up.  Instead I said, "No thanks, I like it 
this way".   Actually made my day!

Some of you folks have seen my rover and I just sent New Year's photo cards of 
me and the one I love to Dixon, Grice (with club dues!) Pappas and Maloney 
(cause he is one funny guy - strange and haha) Photo actually made it look a 
little shiny (grrr) but you can see my greasy finger prints on the bottom edges 
of the body where I pull myself out from underneath. (yeah!)

Anybody who wants to trade photos of rovers and self, email me (not the list) 
your SNAIL mail address.   (john_hong@3mail.3com.com for the next month - 
jhong@haiku.com after that ) International addresses are particularly welcome!

So I got an IBEX info packet a few weeks ago - I like the way these vehicles 
look - I wasn't really sure if the photos were of the just discontinued model 
or the new one - I'll check again.
I second Jory's comment about the rear overhang on the short wheel base version 
- it looks like 2-3 inches!   Rear tire and then the body goes straight up!

I'm pretty sure I was quoted about 4-5 month delivery time from placement of 
order anybody else get a quote?  This is kinda puts one of these out of the 
running for me because I need a 2nd rover kinda quick so I can frameup my '73 
'88.   If anybody knows of a reasonable reliable 109 (rough appearance is 
obviously not an issue, kind of a plus actually!) on the US left coast, I'd 
appreciate the lead!

When I do the frameup, converting to coil springs would be nice...I don't mean 
for anyone to go  into great detail answering these questions below but short 
"no way or yes or yes with a lot of work answers would be appreciated.

To put a 88 body on a 90 frame:

1. How come you never see ads for 90 frames?
2. Can you reuse the diffs in the coil sprung axle housings?
3. Can you reuse the tranny and transfer case?
4. What is the best way to handle the length difference?  Does it really look 
wierd?  Does it affect wheel well clearance.  Is there a width diff as well?

Anybody use one of the '88 coil sprung conversion frames?  Arrow services for 
instance?

Does anyone have HP/torque stats for the Perkins 4-203 diesel?  I've got stats 
for the 4-182.  Can you assume this is a larger engine?  What country is 
Perkins in?  They seem to also have a popular marine diesel line.

Is it just me or are there all of a sudden several ads for the GM 6.2 liter 
diesel in LRO.  Anyone have any opinions on this engine?   Price?

John "Tdi? GM? Perkins?"  Hong

------------------------------

From: Malcolm956@aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 13:21:19 -0500
Subject: The electrical flower pot

My '65 88" IIA came from the factory with a positive earth, but when one of
the previous owners converted it to a GE Delco alternator, it became a
negative ground.  It turns out that when you ground the only wire to the back
of the alternator, everything dies.  I discovered this fact one very late one
dark night, five miles from home on a deserted dirt road.  The alternator
bracket came loose and in trying to retighten it, I grounded the connection.
 Nothing.  Anywhere.  Well, the starter turned, but no lights, ignition or
anything else.  

After a pleasant walk home I rousted my wife out of bed and we went back to
tow the Beastie home.  Fortunately it was very late and nobody saw it chained
ignominiously to the rear bumper of the Oldsmobile.  

Next day I re-drew the manual's wiring diagram in order to show electrical
circuits, rather than the geography of the wires.  It turned out that the
first item in the electrical line (other than the starter) is the ammeter and
no electricity whatever went past it.  Under the right conditions it appears
that the ammeter can serve as an expensive fuse.  I will replace it one day,
but at the moment I have by-passed it.  The ammeter connections are the
push-on type and a  conventional 15 to 20 amp, two prong fuse makes a great
by-pass.  

If you remove the fuse and replace the leads on the ammeter, you have the
world's greatest anti-theft device.  

My charge, oil and choke warning lights do not drop forward into the dash on
Richter scale potholes, rather they fall aft, into the car.  This makes them
easier to replace.  

Currently the Beastie is  running poorly as it badly wants new valves.
 However it runs well enough for the occasional trip to fetch firewood from
my local friendly woodsman.  

In listing the various capacities of a SWB Land Rover, I would include that
the back will comfortably hold one third of a cord  of fire wood, without
exceeding the height of the back front seat or lowering the tailgate.  Until
I get  valves, my LR is a quasi-mobile-under-cover woodpile.  "QUMUC?"

Woodpile, flower pot, whatever, the Land Rover is truly versatile.

Malcolm

------------------------------

From: Malcolm956@aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 13:20:58 -0500
Subject: LRO wannabes

It is interesting  how many people ask about the advisability of owning a
Land Rover.  The answer is NO.  When they ask that question, it brings to
mind the old line that if you have to ask how much it costs to run a yacht
you can't afford one.  

It is difficult to convey to a would-be owner the fact that the Land Rover
has raised the usual natural perversity of inanimate  objects from the
mundane to an art form.  

F'rinstance:  The gasket between the intake and exhaust manifolds blew.
 However, the Beastie ran OK and for quite a while I tolerated a low level of
carbon monoxide poisoning.  Eventually I tried tightening the nuts to see if
that would cure the leak.  That stripped the stud in the manifold.  OK, time
to do it right.  Sent for new intake/exhaust and manifold gaskets.  Taking
everything apart was more of a chore than anticipated as, strange but true,
the intake manifold was pinched between the outer parts of the exhaust
manifold.  A tap was run into various stud holes, new studs used as required
and the whole thing put back together.  I fired it up and it ran quietly.  A
sewing machine came to mind.  

What, you ask, is so perverse about that?  With some things still left undone
(neither the hood prop nor the air cleaner were hooked up) I thought I would
give it a quick run to see if the Beastie appreciated my efforts.  Ran good.
 Pop the hood, tighten everything up - but wait - the hood latch won't work.
 Well, that required about two hours of farting around, loosening,
tightening, lubricating, swearing.  When the latch finally decided that my
patience was wearing thin, it decided to work again.  Like new.  Never did
figure if anything I did  helped it.  

Like I say, an art form.  
 

------------------------------

Date: Fri,  6 Jan 1995 14:21:38 -0500 (EST)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: The Return of the Prince

Sandy, 
As I asscend my hill every night and I watch the headlights flicker and
dance their paultry beams upon the new fallen snow, 
I am reminded of "HIS" presence.
I know he lurks just outside the capabilities of my meager eyesight. 
But I know "HE" is there.
Sleep, Sleep, sweet Prince, as soon the sun shall rise from the East,
and I can move about this planet in less mortal fear than during the
hours of the mystical darkness.

Off to say me prayers
Hope it ain't contagious
Jon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Jan 1995 19:56:06 -0500
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: Bezels & BS

In the past while thumbing through Land Rover books and photo albums of rallys
past, I've noticed that certain IIAs had a more businesslike (and more 
attrative to myself) look about them, but I couldn't put my finger on what it 
was until now.  On page 156 of the December LRO there is an article about a 
IIA Carawagon.  It has some good detail photos of the front end (headlamps in 
the breakfast) and shows FLUSH headlamp bezels.  THAT was what looked so neat!
 I looked it up in the IIA parts book and they are listed only for the 
European Rovers.  I think it looks neater than with the chrome bezels sticking
out, but I have a question for anyone who has had experience with the flush 
assemblies or both flush and sticking out.  It seems from the parts book that 
there is no headlamp bucket with this installation, does this lead to problems
with the back of the lamp exposed?  Will this fit directly into a later US IIA
with buckets and lamps that stick out?  Are there any disadvantages aside from
slightly restricted lighting with these assemblies?

On another note, I just got the latest Harbor Freight tool catalog, and Mike 
Lokodice was looking for an engine stand.  They have on sale:
PN               Part                               Price
04060-1CDB       750lb Engine stand                $39.99
03163-5CDA       600lb Hand truck                  $34.99
05937-3CDA       2" X 20' 18,000lb Nylon tow strap $14.99
30532-2CDA       Blitz 5 Gal Jerry can             $19.99
30533-1CDA       Metal Jerry can holder            $ 9.99
04842-0CDC       Air Impact Hammer                 $12.99
05917-3CDA       Standard Brushes                  $ 2.49

The tow strap I got for Christmas to replace the one I broke attempting to 
recover Ben Smith's 88 from what Dixon referrs to as "a mud puddle":-).
The impact hammer is the best thing since sliced bread in terms of removing 
stuck exhaust systems, and the Standard brushes are 3 wire toothbrushes- 
probably the most used items in my tool box- absolutely indespensible.

Their number is 1-800-423-2567 or 805-444-3353, and if the total of your order
is $50 or more, the shipping (US) is free.

Mike,

The stand and a new tow strap would get you over the $50 min.  The hand truck 
would come in handy too to horse your block around (or to horse your SO out 
the door :-).

Enough baloney for now

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

Subject: forwarded message
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 95 21:17:53 -0500
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

For quicker delivery, check that the To: address of your reply is 
	lro@team.net   or  land-rover-owner@team.net
messages sent to other addresses (*-owner or *-request) may experience an
unpredictable delay.

------- Forwarded Message

From: WB6AGE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Dec 1994 23:37:17 -0500
Subject: Thor hubs

I had a set of Thor hubs on my 60 SII 88.  They are a type of primative
automatic hub circa early to mid 60's.

When the screw on the side is set to the out position (flush with surface of
hub body) the wheel will turn independent of the axle shaft. As soon as the
axle shaft is engaged, a roller clutch engages in the hub, the wheel and and
axle are locked together and the wheel is powered.

The down side is that the clutch can disengage if the roller clutch becomes
unloaded for some reason, (shifting into reverse does it) thus the purpose of
the screw.  It locks the clutch in the engaged position bypassing the auto
function.

I am not impressed with any kind of auto hub and even less so with these.  I
replaced them as part of my frame up. 

Bob Cosentino,
WB6AGE@AOL.COM

------- End of Forwarded Message

------------------------------

Subject: forwarded message
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 95 21:23:44 -0500
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

------- Forwarded Message

Date: Thu, 15 Dec 1994 09:57:54 +1000
From: Rodney Alan Walker <ra.walker@qut.edu.au>
Subject: Pontiac Iron Duke Motors (as fitted to Jeeps)
Message-id: <01HKO2OCWPE08ZDY28@melia.qut.edu.au>

From:	FOREST::IFN001WALKER "Rodney Alan Walker" 15-DEC-1994 09:54:51.38
To:	IN%"robdav@sunshine.vab.paramax.com"
CC:	RA.WALKER
Subj:	Pontiac Iron Duke

R & D

According to my books, the Jeep Hurricane 2.5l (aka iron duke) was introduced
in 1980 into the Jeep lineup.

The Pontiac Iron Duke motor originated in 1962 as a 90hp Chevy II engine.
Subsequently it was adapted for use with the '78 Pontiac Sunbird and then 
only after the ill-fated Vega engine was withdrawn from Sunbird production.

As used in CJ5 and CJ7 it displaced 151 cubes, with 4" bore and 3" stroke.
With Rochester staged 2 barrel carb, 8.2:1 compression ratio, single exhaust
and High Energy Ignition it developed 82hp @ 4000rpm and 126 ft.lb of torque 
at 2600rpm. Assembled weight is 319 pounds. economy measured around 23mpg
for a number of road tests that I have with this engine. 

In fact my own Jeep had this engine, but I quickly replaced it with the much 
more powerful 4.2l six cylinder.

In Jeep vehicles I think production went until about 1984. The iron duke is
basically half of a 350 chev V8, in fact the bellhousing bolt pattern is 
identical (at least for Jeep fitted engines) that is why it is popular here to
swap in a 350 for a iron duke powered Jeep.

There is a surplus of these motors in Australia and thus they are very cheap.
I should imagine the same situation exists for the UK if 4 cyl versions 
were imported during those years.

Hope this helps

Rod

'55 Series I (rolling chassis)

------- End of Forwarded Message

------------------------------

Subject: forwarded message
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 95 21:32:09 -0500
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

------- Forwarded Message

From: "Mugele, Gerry" <Gerry.Mugele@wellsfargo.com>
Subject: Yakima Racks and L-R Signs
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 94 10:26:00 PST
Encoding: 42 TEXT
X-Mailer: Microsoft Mail V3.0

>>I bought myself a Yakima adapter for bolting the rack to the tropical 
roof. I know I could easily remove the sunsheet but would rather keep it. 
 ......   Any ideas? anyone done it?<<

Well I have a Yakima rack for my 72 88' with a tropical roof.  The main 
problem I had was getting towers tall enough (and vertical) enough to clear 
the sheet metal on the sides.  From the gutter, you need nine vertical 
inches with almost no inward lean.  I purchased "tower extensions" from 
Atlantic-British.  These are essentially just aluminum spacers which fit 
between the gutter brackets and the cross-bar attachment.  The rack now 
clears (barely) the tropical roof.  With the canoe and two bicycles mounted 
and a severe head wind on a rough road the rack DOES contact the aluminum. 
 Not ideal but certainly workable.  I visited the Yakima works in Arcata 
California a few years ago a demonstrated the problems with Land Rover hard 
tops.  They were intrigued but seemed disinclined to address "such a limited 
market".

I'm not clear on the nature of the problem you're having but I hope this 
helps.

and.....Maloney sez...

>>Santa treated me very well this year.  Some of the goodies he dropped off
were:  A large Land Rover Sales and Service sign (18"X24" - very nice 
repro)<<

I hafta brag....about 20 years ago I got some real Land Rover service signs 
for about $1 each.
Carbrey Motors in Willits, California was, I am told, the original LR dealer 
west of the Rockies.  This is Granville Poole's stomping grounds, about 150 
miles north of San Francisco.  Anyway the place sold Caterpillars, Ramblers 
and Land Rovers from the early 50s until 1972 (or 3) when the were unable to 
get any new series IIIs.  When they folded their tent I went thru their 
parts inventory and acquired a fair stock and got my Official signs...dark 
green logo on a mustard yellow field painted on an aluminum(!) oval.  One of 
them is near perfect, it musta faced north all it's working life.

Gerry

RM** - Give Pizza Chants

------- End of Forwarded Message

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Yakima.revisited
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 95 22:16:34 EST

Sorry folks, I think this is an oldie...I saw it once, but now 
that it's come up again I got a burning question...

>>>Begin clip

>>I bought myself a Yakima adapter for bolting the rack to the tropical 
roof. I know I could easily remove the sunsheet but would rather keep it. 
 ......   Any ideas? anyone done it?<<

Well I have a Yakima rack for my 72 88' with a tropical roof.  The main 
problem I had was getting towers tall enough (and vertical) enough to clear 
the sheet metal on the sides.  From the gutter, you need nine vertical 
inches with almost no inward lean.  I purchased "tower extensions" from 
Atlantic-British.  These are essentially just aluminum spacers which fit 
between the gutter brackets and the cross-bar attachment.  The rack now 
clears (barely) the tropical roof.  With the canoe and two bicycles mounted 
and a severe head wind on a rough road the rack DOES contact the aluminum. 
 Not ideal but certainly workable.  I visited the Yakima works in Arcata 
California a few years ago a demonstrated the problems with Land Rover hard 
tops.  They were intrigued but seemed disinclined to address "such a limited 
market".

>>>end Clip

I also have a Yakima rack.  I think it is the IA with tower extensions,
BUT it contacts the sides of the top (regular hardtop, no heatshield)
no matter what I do.  Were the tower extensions you got at AB made by
them or were they the standard Yakima tower extensions????? 

I do wish I could get mine to fit better than it does.  Not only does it
contact the sides of the top, but it is also a bitch to install if you
don't do it right....can't tighten up one side before you get the other
in the railing, then can't tighten either too much at once or the other
pops out, etc.  I tried filing down the spacers (both the metal ones AND
the plastic ones...but beleive it or not, those plastic buggers were
hard as nails). I wanted to put a slight outward angle on the bracket.
Didn't work.  I'm not certain, but towers that are higher than the ones
I've got *might* help.  (But, the point where it contacts is below the
tower so it probably won't.)

Others on this list have mentioned that this rack fits fine, so I'm
begining to wonder if maybe variations in the tops themselves might
account for the differences we're experiencing with the quality of the
fit.

And...a suggestion....don't really crank down on the nuts and bolts that
hold it together.  Lightly snug is ok.  I say this because I managed to
knock mine off against a tree (I bought the 72" bar so I can carry two
canoes, and when I first put it on and went cruising by familiar places
knowing full well what the limits of clearance for my Nigel was, I smacked
it against a tree....duh, 'cause I forgot it was on).  Both bars ended up
in the road behind me, and neither was damaged because it all just
twisted at the joints.......were it really tight I'd of probably bent
something badly.  (and yes, I've since bought 52" bars for the times
I haul just one canoe...far more often than two.)

thanks, and sorry for rambling,
rd/nigel

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 

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