[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Jimmy Patrick [jimmyp@ck | 44 | sacul (lucas backwards) |
2 | BRK%mimi@magic.itg.ti.co | 25 | Used Range Rover caveats? |
3 | "Peter C. Parsons" [ppar | 29 | Re: Goodbye |
4 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 36 | Oil pressure problems... reply. |
5 | Ray Harder [ccray@showme | 60 | working rovers |
6 | "Walter C. Swain" [wcswa | 27 | Re: sacul (lucas backwards) |
7 | MarcBowen@aol.com | 11 | Suscribe |
8 | CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR | 40 | This 'n' that |
9 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 18 | ? Military L. Rovers available in the U.S.??? |
10 | Morgan Hannaford [morgan | 24 | Ultimate Land Rover Movie |
11 | "Hui Ben " [/G=Hui/S=Ben | 53 | RE: This 'n' that |
12 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 17 | RE: This 'n' that |
13 | CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR | 22 | Alternator woes |
14 | "Hui Ben " [/G=Hui/S=Ben | 34 | RE: This 'n' that |
15 | mcdpw@pacific.pacific.ne | 59 | RE: Land Rover carbs |
16 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 22 | [not specified] |
17 | jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) | 29 | land rover sadness... |
18 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 15 | Re: Discovery & Religion |
19 | Russell Burns [burns@cis | 28 | D-90 hardtop |
20 | UncleBrad@aol.com | 16 | DownEast Rally |
21 | jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john | 61 | smog update plus questions |
22 | jpappa01@InterServ.Com | 19 | Re: alternator/charging/ser 3 |
23 | jpappa01@InterServ.Com | 39 | Re: The 1995 Defender 90 |
24 | jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) | 14 | Re: The 1995 Defender 90 |
25 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 66 | Re: sacul (lucas backwards) |
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 06:21:27 -0500 From: Jimmy Patrick <jimmyp@cksp.demon.co.uk> Subject: sacul (lucas backwards) Lucas is here. It seems that the lucas demons have been visiting several of us for the holidays. Sandy, its a shame you didn't catch him and shoot him while he was there. He made his way over here to England and my Land Rover. I think I have a short somewhere, but I can't figure it out. The battery charges enough if I drive it around a bit on a motorway or something. But if I drive at night, the lights start out ok and then slowly dim to blackness. If I don't drive at night and use the lights, the battery usually retains enough charge to start up again the next morning. I have a "new" refurbished alternator in there but I know better than to think that because a part is new, that means it is good. I think the place to start is with the little round switch that the key goes in and that has the switch around the outside for the running lamps and the original headlight switch. Sometimes when I turn off the key, the motor goes on running, not like dieseling on but like it was never switched off.... The headlamps are now on a separate switch. Can you put too much headlamp on a rover, I mean one that draws too much power for the alternator?? Maybe my battery is knackered and won't charge up, but I'd hate to get a new one and then run that one flat right away too. Is there a crank starter available for land-rovers as an option. Can anyone help me with a place to start. I am new to Land-Rovers and Lucas systems. It is negative-ground. Cheers, Jimmy Patrick jimmyp@cksp.demon.co.uk -- CKS|Partners 0344-382114 Advertising & Marketing Communications fax 0344-303192 ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: BRK%mimi@magic.itg.ti.com Date: Tue, 3 Jan 95 07:44:21 CST Subject: Used Range Rover caveats? From: Richard Brooks BRK Subj: Used Range Rover caveats? There are several among you who own older Range Rovers and, from perusing the local newspaper classified ads here in Dallas, there are a number of 1989 through, say, 1991 or 1992 Range Rovers being offered for sale at somewhat reasonable prices (US$16K to US$29K). Anyone have any advise on what to look for when inspecting these vehicles for potential purchase? My guess is that lack of proper maintenance will probably be the most abuse many of them have seen, being owned strictly for their panache value and now being sold so that yet another trendy vehicle can be acquired. Anything special to look for in these particular cases? Would there be any particular year models or equipment configurations you'd recommending avoiding because of bad experiences you may have had or had first-hand experience of? All observations/experiences appreciated. Thanks, Richard ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 08:49:38 -0700 From: "Peter C. Parsons" <pparsons@ppsol.com> Subject: Re: Goodbye Subject: Goodbye > As Douglas Adams said (Hitch Hickers Guide to the Galaxy), See you, > and thanks for all the fish. Er, it's "So long, and thanks for all the fish". As you go off with your Discovery to contemplate the future, follow the Hitchhikers Guide: 1) take a towel 2) Don't Panic! Good luck to you! _______ |--' | \_|_ |___ +-- ] [|_/-\____/-\|} (O) (O) '94 Disco -Peter C. Parsons, __________ |/\^_/v^/\^| | SKYROVR | |_colorado_| ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 03 Jan 95 08:54:09 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Oil pressure problems... reply. FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Oil pressure problems... reply. Greg Brown, While I'm not a mechanic by trade, I have done a lot of tinkering, and backyard stuff, and read a lot of technical information. Here are some possibilities in reference to your oil pressure problems. With (I forget exactly) around 40 psi at idle, that doesn't sound like a oil pump problem. When your pressure drops as the angle of your vehicle changes, it could be: 1.) Low oil level. (dip stick is not accurate?) 2.) the oil pick-up tube is too high inside the oil pan, therefore not "in" the oil at an angle. 3.) I've read about oil baffles within some oil pans, designed to keep a quantity of oil near the pick-up tube while the vehicle is at an angle, maybe yours are missing, or became dislodged??? If it were me, I'd first check the oil level. If the dipstick reads full, drain the oil and measure the quantity removed. If that's okay, I'd drop the pan and look for a loose pick-up tube, or.... ??? Anyone else have any suggestions? Dave Brown (I like your last name!) '94 Discovery (for sale. :( ) Phoenix AZ #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ | thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 10:00:00 -0600 (CST) From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu> Subject: working rovers We had an ugly bald cypress pine in the front yard of our house. It is a pine tree that sheds it's needles in the winter. For various reasons, we (read that: the wife) decided it had to go. About 40 feet tall. The problem is that there was a power line next to it and the thought of me cutting it down was kind of scary. Things can go wrong and I didn't want to reap those kind of consequences. OK, so the tree-trimmer said $400 to cut down the tree and haul it off. And $3 per inch to grind out the stump which would be another $100. "$500 worth of rover parts." I said to myself. Put it off for 3 weeks -- the subconsious mind was working, though. Son was home between semesters and we took it down: -- With the extension ladder, cut off all the branches up to about 20 feet and hauled them to the recycling depot. -- Hooked LULU's winch onto the tree at about the 25 ft. level. Put the Dick Cepek 20,000# strap onto the back and hooked it onto a tree that happened to be in a good location. LULU's winch is a Koenig crankshaft 8,000#. The hardest part is keeping the engine idling. -- Engaged the winch power and put the tree into a terrific bow. It could only come down one way. I climbed the ladder and cut it off at the 15 ft level while my son applied winch power whenever I nodded. The tree emitted a loud "crack" and down it came. We trimmed the branches and hauled them to the recycling depot. The trunk was cut into pieces and is being burned. OK, so I still need to dig down and cut out the stump, but that will happen when we get some warmer weather. Subtle (ok, direct) comments are being made to the wife repeatedly: -- you couldn't do that with a honda... -- I should get to spend the $500 on rover parts... -- you can trust your friends to help you out... -- you should have been there, you could learn to love LULU, too... Taking out the tree was a good idea. The house looks much better from the street. And, LULU looks much better from the house (because of her bad manners, she must stay out of the driveway and sleep in the street). --------------------------------------------------------------------- Ray Harder Columbia, Missouri 314-882-2000 "...you are what you drive..." - 61 SIIa 88 (LULU, aka Experimental) - 66 SIIa 88 (rebuild project) - 69 SIIa 88 (parts) - 87 RR (wife's) - 80 MGB - xx --------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@qvarsx.er.usgs.gov> Subject: Re: sacul (lucas backwards) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 08:58:07 -0800 (PST) On or about January 3, Jimmy Patrick wrote: > Lucas is here. none --Snip-snip > Maybe my battery is knackered and won't charge up, but I'd hate to get a > new one and then run that one flat right away too. Is there a crank starter > available for land-rovers as an option. How old is the battery? On a recently purchased vehicle one might expect to find that an easily changed part like a battery is older than the one in the vehicle the seller chose to keep. This would be a prime candidate, based on my experience and your description of the symptoms. A decent garage should be able to to a quick check of the battery's condition under an induced load. They will probably do it for free in the hopes of selling you a new battery, so you may want to watch them throw the switch to simulate the load <8->). If it is the battery, it is an easy, if not cheap, solution to the problem. Good luck. Walter Swain Davis, CA, USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: MarcBowen@aol.com Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 14:25:09 -0500 Subject: Suscribe please set me address up directly to : msb@ptech.com Thanks, Marc Bowen - own a Discovery ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 03 Jan 1995 14:19:18 EST From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE) Subject: This 'n' that Been away for a few days, so pardon the bandwidth if this is old hat... Chris wrote about reverse switches. This may be the one piece of LR original equipment that is "no longer supplied". An exact copy of this switch is not available at any North American supplier (I tried)...I got a used one from Bruce at British Rovers, and I think it was his last. ABP and RN sell switches, but they require modification/drilling to adapt them. The 4" amber lenses have gone the same way..."NLS". Get 'em from junkers, if you can find them at all. Erik wrote about rust removal. After spending many a hot, itchy weekend grinding the old polyester fiberglass of a mahogany sailboat hull, I'd suggest a 7" "Milwaukee" angle grinder, a fairly beefy tool. They make two models, one that turns at about 2,000 RPM and another that does 4,500. Your choice...4,500 RPM and about a bazillion 80 grit discs did it for me. (Ask Dixon about Bates and his roving grinder!) If the rust is 'tight' surface rust, not exfoliating variety, I'd suggest a wash with "Ospho" a chemical primer (phosphoric acid??) that converts iron oxide to the much less reactive iron phosphate. WRT the crash worthiness of a Rover... a 16 yr. old kid (second day driving) rear ended the Rover whilst sitting at a stop sign. He hit the (empty) spare tire carrier with the front corner of his mommie's Lincoln Continental. Busted out the grill, headlights, bent the fender and buckled the hood...about $1,500 damage...and this was 1975 dollars. On the Rover, the tire carrier ring was bent (flattened back out with a 3# hammer) and I pulled the bent door out with a comealong so you couldn't tell. The $350 insurance settlement paid the rent that month. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----* | | | Sandy Grice, Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com FAX: 804-622-7056 | | Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days) 804-423-4898 (Evenings) | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA | *------------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 03 Jan 95 13:00:17 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: ? Military L. Rovers available in the U.S.??? FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: ? Military L. Rovers available in the U.S.??? I heard a rumor about some military Land Rovers that may be available in the U.S. Can anyone confirm that or provide me with more information?? Thanks, Please reply dirrect to debrown@srp.gov Dave Brown - debrown@srp.gov - '94 L.R. Discovery (for sale) - Phoenix AZ USA #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ | thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 12:38:59 -0800 (PST) From: Morgan Hannaford <morgan@nature.Berkeley.EDU> Subject: Ultimate Land Rover Movie "Gods" is a great flick, but I've been looking for the Ultimate Land Rover movie: Killer Force. This is a 1975 movie with Peter Fonda, Telly Savalas, and O.J. Simpson! This film is reported to have > a hundred Land Rovers in it. However, no video places in the East Bay (left coast) seem to have it (e.g. Blockbuster,Warehouse etc.). Is this movie so bad that even Berkeley video shops don't carry it? Does anyone have a source? "White Hunter, Black Heart" a movie about John Houston directing the "African Queen" film (starring Clint Eastwood) has a few Rovers in it. Ciao, Morgan H. ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 3 Jan 95 15:30:02 -0600 From: "Hui Ben " </G=Hui/S=Ben/OU2=IL02M/OU=ILBH/P=MOT/A=MOT/C=US/@email.mot.com> Subject: RE: This 'n' that the amber and clear lenses can be bought. they are the same as the austin mini and any mini shop can get em for you. they come in either dual filament or single filament. you can try craigs auto in vancouver canada 604-461-7337 and tell him ben sent you.. i think he sell the set with the socket, bulbs, rubber weather seal, and chrome ring for about 40.00 each side canadian. _______________________________________________________________________________ From: /S=CXKS46A@prodigy.com/OU2=SMTPGW/OU=ILBA/P=MOT/A=MOT/C=US/ on Tue, Jan 3, 1995 2:04 PM Subject: This 'n' that X-Mailer: PRODIGY Services Company Internet mailer [PIM 3.2-308.52] Been away for a few days, so pardon the bandwidth if this is old hat... Chris wrote about reverse switches. This may be the one piece of LR original equipment that is "no longer supplied". An exact copy of this switch is not available at any North American supplier (I tried)...I got a used one from Bruce at British Rovers, and I think it was his last. ABP and RN sell switches, but they require modification/drilling to adapt them. The 4" amber lenses have gone the same way..."NLS". Get 'em from junkers, if you can find them at all. Erik wrote about rust removal. After spending many a hot, itchy weekend grinding the old polyester fiberglass of a mahogany sailboat hull, I'd suggest a 7" "Milwaukee" angle grinder, a fairly beefy tool. They make two models, one that turns at about 2,000 RPM and another that does 4,500. Your choice...4,500 RPM and about a bazillion 80 grit discs did it for me. (Ask Dixon about Bates and his roving grinder!) If the rust is 'tight' surface rust, not exfoliating variety, I'd suggest a wash with "Ospho" a chemical primer (phosphoric acid??) that converts iron oxide to the much less reactive iron phosphate. WRT the crash worthiness of a Rover... a 16 yr. old kid (second day driving) rear ended the Rover whilst sitting at a stop sign. He hit the (empty) spare tire carrier with the front corner of his mommie's Lincoln Continental. Busted out the grill, headlights, bent the fender and buckled the hood...about $1,500 damage...and this was 1975 dollars. On the Rover, the tire carrier ring was bent (flattened back out with a 3# hammer) and I pulled the bent door out with a comealong so you couldn't tell. The $350 insurance settlement paid the rent that month. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----* | | | Sandy Grice, Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com FAX: 804-622-7056 | | Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days) 804-423-4898 (Evenings) | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA | *------------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 16:51:04 -0500 (EST) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> Subject: RE: This 'n' that On 3 Jan 1995, Hui Ben wrote: > the amber and clear lenses can be bought. they are the same as the austin > mini and any mini shop can get em for you. they come in either dual > filament or single filament. You sure this is the 4" amber found on the Series III Land Rover? That particular light as found on the Series III (NA spec) was never on the Austin Mini (sold in Canada until 1980, while US sales ceased in 1968) to my knowledge. (I have has a lot of Cdn Mini's) Rgds, ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 03 Jan 1995 17:00:35 EST From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE) Subject: Alternator woes One of our northern members writes about problems with a Lucas alternator. You said you noticed it was "off charge" driving home....Is the battery OK? Alternators need a small voltage to "tickle" the field...without this excitation, it won't put out even if the engine is turning. So if the battery is well and truly dead, not just weak, and the vehicle is jumped to get it going, it won't charge once the jump is discontinued. Sometimes the alternator can be fooled by hooking a 6 volt lantern battery to the field wire with jumpers...this is a nifty trick if your marine engine/battery goes down. *----"Jeep may be famous,LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----* | | | Sandy Grice, Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com FAX: 804-622-7056 | | Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days) 804-423-4898 (Evenings) | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA | *------------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 3 Jan 95 16:43:26 -0600 From: "Hui Ben " </G=Hui/S=Ben/OU2=IL02M/OU=ILBH/P=MOT/A=MOT/C=US/@email.mot.com> Subject: RE: This 'n' that sorry i thought you were refering to the small glass ones.. _______________________________________________________________________________ /DDV=\/G=Hui\/S=Ben\/OU2=IL02M\/OU=ILBH\/P=MOT\/A=MOT\/C=US\/@email.corp.mot.com /DDT=RFC-822/OU2=SMTPGW/OU=ILBA/P=MOT/A=MOT/C=US/ Cc: /DDV=\/S=CXKS46A@prodigy.com\/OU2=SMTPGW\/OU=ILBA\/P=MOT\/A=MOT\/C=US\/@email.co rp.mot.com/DDT=RFC-822/OU2=SMTPGW/OU=ILBA/P=MOT/A=MOT/C=US/; /S=land-rover-owner@stratus.com/OU2=SMTPGW/OU=ILBA/P=MOT/A=MOT/C=US/ From: /S=dkenner@emr1.emr.ca/OU2=SMTPGW/OU=ILBA/P=MOT/A=MOT/C=US/ on Tue, Jan 3, 1995 4:21 PM Subject: RE: This 'n' that Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On 3 Jan 1995, Hui Ben wrote: > the amber and clear lenses can be bought. they are the same as the austin > mini and any mini shop can get em for you. they come in either dual > filament or single filament. You sure this is the 4" amber found on the Series III Land Rover? That particular light as found on the Series III (NA spec) was never on the Austin Mini (sold in Canada until 1980, while US sales ceased in 1968) to my knowledge. (I have has a lot of Cdn Mini's) Rgds, ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 15:31:40 -0800 From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool) Subject: RE: Land Rover carbs John Karlsson posted the following query to the British Cars list: >I find that parts for the original Solex carburetor (OOOPS! I >mean carburettor.) are no longer made, and after about a quarter [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)] > 2899) affect icing, since there seems to be no provision for > heating the carb? John, There are actually two ways to mount the two-barrel Weber carb, a full custom manifold and an adapter piece which allows mounting on the stock Land-Rover manifold. I believe both are made by Pierce manifolds in North California: Phone: 800-874-3728 or 408-842-6667 or fax to 408-842-6673 I suspect that Pierce's price may be lower than that of ABP and suggest that you give Pierce a call. I believe that British Pacific (800-554-4133) may also have a lower price than ABP. If you use the full Pierce manifold (undoubtedly the higher-performance set-up) you will lose the heat-riser connection to the exhaust manifold. So you might as well go with the headers and, as you say, eliminate the manifold cracking nemesis. Then, so I have read, to get the full performance potential from the set-up, you need to go to the cam-grind profile for the 2.5-liter Land-Rover four-cylinder engine. Improvement in performance? Yes. Worth it? Hard to say. Yes, you will have cold-starting and -running problems with this set-up, unless you build and install a heat-riser set-up (of sheetmetal) to capture sufficient heat from the headers and pass it to the manifold. It seems to me that another approach would be to modify the air cleaner set-up (in which, by the way, the Pierce kit normally replaces the oilbath with a K&N dry filter) to have an air pickup which incorporates a heat riser. Several cars that I have had have had such a pick-up and some have had summer and winter settings with a damper that you can move to determine whether the air is cold or hot. I believe one even had a thermostatically controlled damper and that would seem to be the ideal solution. Regarding the single-barrel Weber, it works O.K. but I am skeptical of the performance claims. I have run one and felt that I lost performance, slightly, compared with the Zenith carb which it replaced (on a 1970 Series IIa 88"). There has been considerable discussion on the Land-Rover-Owner discussion group (LRO@team.net) about both types of Webers. Some owners who have used the single-throat Weber have felt that it gave a performance increase. If you pursue one of these modifications, please keep us "posted" on the Land-Rover list (lro@team.net). If you are not a member of this excellent Land-Rover discussion group, I encourage you to join. You can e-mail me for further details, if you wish. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ [ G.B.Pool(Redwood Vly, CA, USA)Appraiser,R/W Agent,Land-Rover aficionado ] [ e-mail: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net ** Ph:(707)485-7220 H,(707)463-4265 W ] ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: Land Rover carbs Date: Tue, 03 Jan 1995 17:24:14 -0800 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> In message <199501032331.PAA26129@pacific.pacific.net>you wrote: > John Karlsson posted the following query to the British Cars list: > IIa 88"). There has been considerable discussion on the Land-Rover-Owner [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > have used the single-throat Weber have felt that it gave a performance > increase. I have the Webber single barrel on my Rover. I also have run a Rochester carb. While my gas mileage increased when I moved to the Webber, it was at the cost of horsepower. -Benjamin Smith ---------------- Science Applications Internation Corporation China Lake Naval Air Warfare Center bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil 1972 Land Rover Series III 88 ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 18:15:46 -0800 From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: land rover sadness... well, i had put all my tools and parts in the back of my rover the other day in preparation for doing a bunch of work... someone decided to relieve me of the lot. the thing that really gets me is that the parts will inevitably go to waste (at least someone will get the use of the huge sack of tools... but what thief is going to know what to do wit a bunch of rover parts)... sigh... -jory among the items stolen: ----------------------- new stuart warner oil pressure gauge with install kit custom fabricated sheet metal piece to cover aux gas tank filler tube oil pump rebuild kit (with sump gasket) head gasket new wipers new horn the used fuel pump i just bought from vance chin (i was going to rebuild it) oil filter new set of points new set of plugs 2 of the Castrol/LMA large bottles of brake fluid ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Tue, 03 Jan 1995 21:21:37 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Discovery & Religion > Note: There is a recent Wall Street Journal article about Charlton > Heston's > Voyage Through the Bible, a CD-ROM version of the bible (available next > Christmas), where Heston traverses the Holy Land in a Land Rover. none I've said a lot of words not mentioned in the Bible while traversing an un-holy swamp in a Land Rover... :) ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com> Subject: D-90 hardtop Date: Tue, 3 Jan 95 19:42:34 PST I made my trek to Vermont to obtain my Hardtop. With the help of Rovers North we got it installed without too much trouble. We also put in a back seat, which was more trouble than the top. Spent a few nights at a Bed, and breakfast and had a good time. (thanks Mike for the offer of the couch, and dog, but I took my wife instead) I guess we could offer low/no cost couch and dogs as a new fad.... The trip home was actually noisier than the soft top. The door seals whistled like mad at 70 mph with a 30 mph head wind. A little weather stripping on the window edges took care of that problem. I also am in the process of installing a headliner in the top. A trip the the local sporting goods shop, and four 3/8 in. closed cell foam pads later I have a headliner. I just glued the Foam to the roof with silicon glue as I may want to remove it sometime. The one item I did notice with the top is that the support bar for the soft top is removed. I reinstalled it under the foam headliner as I was getting some oil-canning from the wind. I will see how the roof likes the extra support. My only concern is that the support may pop out the alpine windows. Russ Burns ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: UncleBrad@aol.com Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 22:55:31 -0500 Subject: DownEast Rally For those of you who like to plan ahead... the DownEast VII is scheduled for July 1st & 2nd, 1995. Its free. It will actually be a Saturday, Sunday ,and Monday affair, the Monday activity being a flight in the world's only DC-3/C-47 on floats if enough people sign up. I don't know whether this part is free or not. The organizer is Myles Murphy and there is traditionally a very large turn-out. Lots of fun. You can call Myles Murphy at 207-789-5303 or write him at RR2 Box 22, Lincolnville, Maine, 04849 ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 20:39:56 -0800 From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john hess) Subject: smog update plus questions Howdy all, This is my latest smog update; most pertinent to those folks in California, but maybe interesting to others. Smog check #3 was a fail. Not by alot (50 ppm over, 550 not 500), but a fail. I think my insistence to keep coming back to the local guy finally resulted in his working on the rover abit. This meant I could pay him the $50 to cover the state limit and now be off to a state referee station. I have an appointment for Jan 17. Notes. I changed spark plugs to split fire plugs. I told the guy at Grand Auto (no groans please) the correct plug was a champion N5, taken from the brooklands reprint of the land rover manual. From that number, he translated to a splitfire SF40D. My smog guy back checked the splitfires, decided they were wrong, back decoded to champion and then in a last ditch attempt to lower HC, changed the splitfires for RN9YC (that's what is written on my bill). I wasn't going to argue. Can someone please confirm the correct plug for me and my beast, a euro 2.6? Are its plugs different from the NADA? GAP is .030 inches, right? Is the RN9YC acceptable or should I run out and get new N5's ? The splitfires were $6 each and didn't help me pass smog, so they are going back. Second, how do I set the timing on the beast-distributor vacuum advance off? What idle speed is best? I realize it's a little late to ask these questions, but I want to verify that I did things right. My smog guy didn't think much of the gasohol fuel idea and I didn't try it. Can someone tell me if the commericially available stuff (it is still available in CA, right?) is high enough EtOH to significantly lower emissions or would you definitely need to add ethanol or methanol? I work in a lab and have access to any and all organic chemicals. Do the pour things down the carb decarbonization treatments really work? Dave Place (? Ithink it was Dave, if not, my apologies to both Dave and the slighted individual) recommends hot water and a friend says diesel fuel works well. I am skeptical but open to testimonials. The reason I ask is the smog guy wrote on my paperwork that a potential cause of high emissions was carbon on the valves. This is really irrelevant as I have now spent the legal limit and will be ok for two years but on the off chance that decarbonizing the beast will improve valve seating and thus emissions, I may try it. Should any machine shop be able to work on the 2.6 head or will any work need to be done at some special place ie, rovers north? I am thinking that the future holds a rebuild to unlead gas specs. Not today but sometime. This is very long, I hope those not interested can skip to the next article. Thanks to everyone so far. bye john f hess phd (wow, really?) jfhess@ucdavis.edu from home via modem Land- -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and good ol reliable Mazda owner! ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Date: Tue, 3 Jan 95 21:05:22 PST Subject: Re: alternator/charging/ser 3 I seem to recall through various friends in the past w/series 3 charging problems that, after ripping everything out by the roots and tearing out great hunks `o hair in diagnosing the culprit, that it turned out to be the charging warning lamp itself! That this 2-bit part will actually open the circuit if the bulb has failed...! So check this out before you spend gazillions on the bigger bits... regards Jim roverheadus thrombosis scatterbrainum jpappa01@interserv.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Date: Tue, 3 Jan 95 21:15:48 PST Subject: Re: The 1995 Defender 90 We finally got in the first 1995 model year Def 90 at the dealership and there are some detail changes... some better, some ?? The first unit in is black. Black a regular production color for 95 (limited run of 100 of them for 1994), replacing Arles Blue! No more blue (for now). Local dealership still has some blues in stock - if anyone dying for blue, let me know... The 1995 looks terrific with the new Bestop full tilt. Fits tight. No more snaps. Clear windows! Although no more alpine lights... too bad. Yes, the rear lights ARE round now! Wow. Really strange, but probably the looks will grow on me eventually. I finally got used to the square ones from the 110 and `94 Def90. Not at all same round ones as on euro-spec cars. Same layout as square lights. Neat little door *map* pockets. S`pose this could be fitted to earlier models... Improved (anything would have been improvement) rear speakers in somewhat larger baffles. Different head unit is now *CD-ready* for optional CD changer-powered subwoofer unit. New A-frame front brush bar now readily avail. Large diameter tube used. That's about it. one *aluminum* conniston green hardtop in stock but its already gone. Methinks that the black Defender 90 with the grey fiberglass hardtop installed and star alloys would make quite the striking looking land rover! See ya! Jim roverheadus dumbstrukus infatuatum jpappa01@interserv.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 21:33:21 -0800 From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: Re: The 1995 Defender 90 >Methinks that the black Defender 90 with the grey fiberglass hardtop installed >and star alloys would make quite the striking looking land rover! i saw one of this description recently (parks at a gym near my house). it was the first defender i've seen that made me consider getting rid of my own rover (if i had an extra $15K sitting around).... -jory ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Wed, 04 Jan 1995 01:06:23 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: sacul (lucas backwards) Jimmy Patrick sez.... > Lucas is here. none ----snip--- > I think the place to start is with the little round switch that the key > goes in and that has the switch around the outside for the running lamps > and the original headlight switch. Sometimes when I turn off the key, the > motor goes on running, not like dieseling on but like it was never There was some discussion about something like this a while back. The keyswitch portion of the combined switch turns on/off battery voltage to the ignigtion, oil pressure light, charge light and a number of other circuits. Certainly, there may be a problem with the switch if you can't turn off the ignigtion. If the switch were to close *without* the key in the lock it would cause a battery drain BUT you would see the oil pressure and hopefully the charge lights on at the same time. Just like turning the key ON without starting the truck. > The headlamps are now on a separate switch. Can you put too much headlamp > on a rover, I mean one that draws too much power for the alternator?? Yup, you could... You could exceed the output capacity of the alternator and be just draining the battery. > Maybe my battery is knackered and won't charge up, but I'd hate to get a > new one and then run that one flat right away too. Is there a crank > starter available for land-rovers as an option. Get the battery checked to begin with. Yes, you can get a hand-crank. Fits through the hole in the bumper. > Can anyone help me with a place to start. I am new to Land-Rovers and > Lucas systems. It is negative-ground. Not a lot of mystery to Lucas, just a lot of common sense. Check the real simple stuff to begin with. Battery condition (mentioned previously) is important. Battery connections have to be good. The fan belt has to be in good condition and properly tightened or it won't spin the alternator fast enough to charge. Speaking of which, do you have an anternator or generator? The alternator will have an internal voltage regulator. The generator has a regulator mounted high on the bulkhead with a lot of wires plugged in to it. Both the alternator and generator have brushes inside which can wear out and produce a weak output. So much for the simple stuff. If you can't find anything up to this point, then check all the wiring to the alternator or generator as the case may be. Could be dirty or weak connections. The absolute worst thing is that some bloody electrical genius decided to rewire things to his idea of perfection.. Then you have some sparks to chase for a while.. Well.. this lot should keep you off the streets for a bit! Good luck with it. Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P. 7 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol #:-}> 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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