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1 Jimmy Patrick [jimmyp@ck44sacul (lucas backwards)
2 BRK%mimi@magic.itg.ti.co25Used Range Rover caveats?
3 "Peter C. Parsons" [ppar29Re: Goodbye
4 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 36Oil pressure problems... reply.
5 Ray Harder [ccray@showme60working rovers
6 "Walter C. Swain" [wcswa27Re: sacul (lucas backwards)
7 MarcBowen@aol.com 11Suscribe
8 CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR 40This 'n' that
9 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 18? Military L. Rovers available in the U.S.???
10 Morgan Hannaford [morgan24Ultimate Land Rover Movie
11 "Hui Ben " [/G=Hui/S=Ben53RE: This 'n' that
12 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em17RE: This 'n' that
13 CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR 22Alternator woes
14 "Hui Ben " [/G=Hui/S=Ben34RE: This 'n' that
15 mcdpw@pacific.pacific.ne59RE: Land Rover carbs
16 Benjamin Allan Smith [be22[not specified]
17 jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)29land rover sadness...
18 LANDROVER@delphi.com 15Re: Discovery & Religion
19 Russell Burns [burns@cis28D-90 hardtop
20 UncleBrad@aol.com 16DownEast Rally
21 jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john61smog update plus questions
22 jpappa01@InterServ.Com 19Re: alternator/charging/ser 3
23 jpappa01@InterServ.Com 39Re: The 1995 Defender 90
24 jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)14Re: The 1995 Defender 90
25 LANDROVER@delphi.com 66Re: sacul (lucas backwards)


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Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 06:21:27 -0500
From: Jimmy Patrick <jimmyp@cksp.demon.co.uk>
Subject: sacul (lucas backwards)

Lucas is here.

It seems that the lucas demons have been visiting several of us for the
holidays. Sandy, its a shame you didn't catch him and shoot him while he
was there. He made his way over here to England and my Land Rover. I think
I have a short somewhere, but I can't figure it out. The battery charges
enough if I drive it around a bit on a motorway or something. But if I
drive at night, the lights start out ok and then slowly dim to blackness.
If I don't drive at night and use the lights, the battery usually retains
enough charge to start up again the next morning. I have a "new"
refurbished alternator in there but I know better than to think that
because a part is new, that means it is good.

I think the place to start is with the little round switch that the key
goes in and that has the switch around the outside for the running lamps
and the original headlight switch. Sometimes when I turn off the key, the
motor goes on running, not like dieseling on but like it was never switched
off....

The headlamps are now on a separate switch. Can you put too much headlamp
on a rover, I mean one that draws too much power for the alternator??

Maybe my battery is knackered and won't charge up, but I'd hate to get a
new one and then run that one flat right away too. Is there a crank starter
available for land-rovers as an option.

Can anyone help me with a place to start. I am new to Land-Rovers and Lucas
systems. It is negative-ground.

Cheers,

Jimmy Patrick
jimmyp@cksp.demon.co.uk

--

CKS|Partners                                            0344-382114
Advertising & Marketing Communications            fax   0344-303192
                                                  

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From: BRK%mimi@magic.itg.ti.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 95 07:44:21 CST
Subject: Used Range Rover caveats?

From: Richard Brooks             BRK
 
Subj: Used Range Rover caveats?
 
  There are several among you who own older Range Rovers and, from perusing
the local newspaper classified ads here in Dallas, there are a number of
1989 through, say, 1991 or 1992 Range Rovers being offered for sale at
somewhat reasonable prices (US$16K to US$29K).  Anyone have any advise on
what to look for when inspecting these vehicles for potential purchase?
My guess is that lack of proper maintenance will probably be the most
abuse many of them have seen, being owned strictly for their panache value
and now being sold so that yet another trendy vehicle can be acquired.
Anything special to look for in these particular cases?  Would there be
any particular year models or equipment configurations you'd recommending
avoiding because of bad experiences you may have had or had first-hand
experience of?  All observations/experiences appreciated.
Thanks,
Richard

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Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 08:49:38 -0700
From: "Peter C. Parsons" <pparsons@ppsol.com>
Subject: Re:  Goodbye

Subject:       Goodbye

> As Douglas Adams said (Hitch Hickers Guide to the Galaxy), See you, 
> and thanks for all the fish.

Er, it's "So long, and thanks for all the fish".  As you go off with 
your Discovery to contemplate the future, follow the Hitchhikers Guide:
  1) take a towel
  2) Don't Panic!

Good luck to you!

     _______
    |--' |  \_|_  
    |___ +--    ]
   [|_/-\____/-\|}
      (O)    (O)     '94 Disco

-Peter C. Parsons, 

 __________
|/\^_/v^/\^|
| SKYROVR  | 
|_colorado_|

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Date: Tue, 03 Jan 95 08:54:09 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Oil pressure problems... reply.

FROM:  David Brown                          Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Oil pressure problems... reply.
Greg Brown,

While I'm not a mechanic by trade, I have done a lot of tinkering, and
backyard stuff, and read a lot of technical information. Here are some
possibilities in reference to your oil pressure problems.

With (I forget exactly) around 40 psi at idle, that doesn't sound like a
oil pump problem. When your pressure drops as the angle of your vehicle
changes, it could be: 1.) Low oil level. (dip stick is not accurate?)
2.) the oil pick-up tube is too high inside the oil pan, therefore not
"in" the oil at an angle. 3.) I've read about oil baffles within some
oil pans, designed to keep a quantity of oil near the pick-up tube while
the vehicle is at an angle, maybe yours are missing, or became
dislodged???

If it were me, I'd first check the oil level. If the dipstick reads
full, drain the oil and measure the quantity removed. If that's okay,
I'd drop the pan and look for a loose pick-up tube, or.... ???

Anyone else have any suggestions?

Dave Brown (I like your last name!) '94 Discovery (for sale. :( ) Phoenix AZ

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |           thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

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Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 10:00:00 -0600 (CST)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: working rovers 

We had an ugly bald cypress pine in the front yard of our
house.  It is a pine tree that sheds it's needles in the
winter.  For various reasons, we (read that: the wife) decided 
it had to go. About 40 feet tall.  The problem is that there 
was a power line next to it and the thought of me cutting it 
down was kind of scary.  Things can go wrong and I didn't want
to reap those kind of consequences.

OK, so the tree-trimmer said $400 to cut down the tree and haul
it off.  And $3 per inch to grind out the stump which would be
another $100.   "$500 worth of rover parts." I said to myself.

Put it off for 3 weeks -- the subconsious mind was working,
though.  Son was home between semesters and we took it down:

   -- With the extension ladder, cut off all the branches
      up to about 20 feet and hauled them to the recycling depot.

   -- Hooked LULU's winch onto the tree at about the 25 ft.
      level.  Put the Dick Cepek 20,000# strap onto the back
      and hooked it onto a tree that happened to be in a good
      location.  LULU's winch is a Koenig crankshaft 8,000#.
      The hardest part is keeping the engine idling.

   -- Engaged the winch power and put the tree into a terrific
      bow.  It could only come down one way.  I climbed the
      ladder and cut it off at the 15 ft level while my son 
      applied winch power whenever I nodded.  The tree emitted
      a loud "crack" and down it came.  We trimmed the branches
      and hauled them to the recycling depot.  The trunk was
      cut into pieces and is being burned.

OK, so I still need to dig down and cut out the stump, but that
will happen when we get some warmer weather.

Subtle (ok, direct) comments are being made to the wife repeatedly:
    -- you couldn't do that with a honda...
    -- I should get to spend the $500 on rover parts...
    -- you can trust your friends to help you out...
    -- you should have been there, you could learn to love
       LULU, too...
Taking out the tree was a good idea.  The house looks much
better from the street.  And, LULU looks much better from
the house (because of her bad manners, she must stay out of the
driveway and sleep in the street).

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Ray Harder                 Columbia, Missouri   314-882-2000
 
         "...you are what you drive..."
 
- 61 SIIa 88 (LULU, aka Experimental)  - 66 SIIa 88 (rebuild project)
- 69 SIIa 88 (parts)                   - 87 RR      (wife's)
- 80 MGB                               - xx
---------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@qvarsx.er.usgs.gov>
Subject: Re: sacul (lucas backwards)
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 08:58:07 -0800 (PST)

On or about January 3, Jimmy Patrick wrote:

> Lucas is here.
none
--Snip-snip
> Maybe my battery is knackered and won't charge up, but I'd hate to get a
> new one and then run that one flat right away too. Is there a crank starter
> available for land-rovers as an option.

How old is the battery?  On a recently purchased vehicle one might expect 
to find that an easily changed part like a battery is older than the one 
in the vehicle the seller chose to keep.  This would be a prime 
candidate, based on my experience and your description of the symptoms.  
A decent garage should be able to to a quick check of the battery's 
condition under an induced load.  They will probably do it for free in 
the hopes of selling you a new battery, so you may want to watch them throw 
the switch to simulate the load <8->).  If it is the battery, it is an 
easy, if not cheap, solution to the problem.  Good luck.

Walter Swain
Davis, CA, USA

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From: MarcBowen@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 14:25:09 -0500
Subject: Suscribe

please set me address up directly to :
msb@ptech.com

Thanks, 
Marc Bowen - own a Discovery

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Date: Tue, 03 Jan 1995 14:19:18 EST
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: This 'n' that

Been away for a few days, so pardon the bandwidth if this is old hat...
Chris wrote about reverse switches.  This may be the one piece of LR
original equipment that is "no longer supplied".  An exact copy of this
switch is not available at any North American supplier (I tried)...I got a
used one from Bruce at British Rovers, and I think it was his last.  ABP
and RN sell switches, but they require modification/drilling to adapt them.
 The 4" amber lenses have gone the same way..."NLS".  Get 'em from junkers,
if you can find them at all.

Erik wrote about rust removal.  After spending many a hot, itchy weekend
grinding the old polyester fiberglass of a mahogany sailboat hull, I'd
suggest a 7" "Milwaukee" angle grinder, a fairly beefy tool.  They make two
models, one that turns at about 2,000 RPM and another that does 4,500.
Your choice...4,500 RPM and about a bazillion 80 grit discs did it for me.
(Ask Dixon about Bates and his roving grinder!)  If the rust is 'tight'
surface rust, not exfoliating variety, I'd suggest a wash with "Ospho" a
chemical primer (phosphoric acid??) that converts iron oxide to the much
less reactive iron phosphate.

WRT the crash worthiness of a Rover... a 16 yr. old kid (second day
driving) rear ended the Rover whilst sitting at a stop sign.  He hit the
(empty) spare tire carrier with the front corner of his mommie's Lincoln
Continental.  Busted out the grill, headlights, bent the fender and buckled
the hood...about $1,500 damage...and this was 1975 dollars.  On the Rover,
the tire carrier ring was bent (flattened back out with a 3# hammer) and I
pulled the bent door out with a comealong so you couldn't tell.  The $350
insurance settlement paid the rent that month.

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

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Date: Tue, 03 Jan 95 13:00:17 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: ? Military L. Rovers available in the U.S.???

FROM:  David Brown                          Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: ? Military L. Rovers available in the U.S.???
I heard a rumor about some military Land Rovers that may be available in
the U.S. Can anyone confirm that or provide me with more information??
Thanks, Please reply dirrect to debrown@srp.gov
Dave Brown - debrown@srp.gov - '94 L.R. Discovery (for sale) - Phoenix AZ USA

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |           thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

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Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 12:38:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Morgan Hannaford <morgan@nature.Berkeley.EDU>
Subject: Ultimate Land Rover Movie

"Gods" is a great flick, but I've been looking for the Ultimate 
Land Rover movie:  Killer Force.

This is a 1975 movie with Peter Fonda, Telly Savalas, and O.J. Simpson!
This film is reported to have > a hundred Land Rovers in it.

However, no video places in the East Bay (left coast) seem to have it (e.g. 
Blockbuster,Warehouse etc.).  Is this movie so bad that even Berkeley
video shops don't carry it?

Does anyone have a source?

"White Hunter, Black Heart"  a  movie about John Houston directing
the "African Queen" film (starring Clint Eastwood) has a few Rovers in 
it.

Ciao,

Morgan H.

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Date: 3 Jan 95 15:30:02 -0600
From: "Hui Ben " </G=Hui/S=Ben/OU2=IL02M/OU=ILBH/P=MOT/A=MOT/C=US/@email.mot.com>
Subject: RE: This 'n' that

the amber and clear lenses can be bought. they are the same as the austin mini 
and any mini shop can get em for you. they come in either dual filament or 
single filament. you can try craigs auto in vancouver canada 604-461-7337 and 
tell him ben sent you.. i think he sell the set with the socket, bulbs, rubber 
weather seal, and chrome ring for about 40.00 each side canadian.
_______________________________________________________________________________
From: /S=CXKS46A@prodigy.com/OU2=SMTPGW/OU=ILBA/P=MOT/A=MOT/C=US/ on Tue, Jan 3, 
1995 2:04 PM
Subject: This 'n' that

X-Mailer: PRODIGY Services Company Internet mailer [PIM 3.2-308.52]

Been away for a few days, so pardon the bandwidth if this is old hat...
Chris wrote about reverse switches.  This may be the one piece of LR
original equipment that is "no longer supplied".  An exact copy of this
switch is not available at any North American supplier (I tried)...I got a
used one from Bruce at British Rovers, and I think it was his last.  ABP
and RN sell switches, but they require modification/drilling to adapt them.
 The 4" amber lenses have gone the same way..."NLS".  Get 'em from junkers,
if you can find them at all.

Erik wrote about rust removal.  After spending many a hot, itchy weekend
grinding the old polyester fiberglass of a mahogany sailboat hull, I'd
suggest a 7" "Milwaukee" angle grinder, a fairly beefy tool.  They make two
models, one that turns at about 2,000 RPM and another that does 4,500.
Your choice...4,500 RPM and about a bazillion 80 grit discs did it for me.
(Ask Dixon about Bates and his roving grinder!)  If the rust is 'tight'
surface rust, not exfoliating variety, I'd suggest a wash with "Ospho" a
chemical primer (phosphoric acid??) that converts iron oxide to the much
less reactive iron phosphate.

WRT the crash worthiness of a Rover... a 16 yr. old kid (second day
driving) rear ended the Rover whilst sitting at a stop sign.  He hit the
(empty) spare tire carrier with the front corner of his mommie's Lincoln
Continental.  Busted out the grill, headlights, bent the fender and buckled
the hood...about $1,500 damage...and this was 1975 dollars.  On the Rover,
the tire carrier ring was bent (flattened back out with a 3# hammer) and I
pulled the bent door out with a comealong so you couldn't tell.  The $350
insurance settlement paid the rent that month.

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 16:51:04 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: RE: This 'n' that

On 3 Jan 1995, Hui Ben  wrote:

> the amber and clear lenses can be bought. they are the same as the austin 
> mini  and any mini shop can get em for you. they come in either dual 
> filament or single filament. 

	You sure this is the 4" amber found on the Series III Land Rover?
	That particular light as found on the Series III (NA spec) was never
	on the Austin Mini (sold in Canada until 1980, while US sales
	ceased in 1968) to my knowledge.  (I have has a lot of Cdn Mini's)

	Rgds,

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Date: Tue, 03 Jan 1995 17:00:35 EST
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: Alternator woes

One of our northern members writes about problems with a Lucas alternator.
You said you noticed it was "off charge" driving home....Is the battery OK?
Alternators need a small voltage to "tickle" the field...without this
excitation, it won't put out even if the engine is turning.  So if the
battery is well and truly dead, not just weak, and the vehicle is jumped to
get it going, it won't charge once the jump is discontinued.  Sometimes the
alternator can be fooled by hooking a 6 volt lantern battery to the field
wire with jumpers...this is a nifty trick if your marine engine/battery
goes down.

    *----"Jeep may be famous,LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

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Date: 3 Jan 95 16:43:26 -0600
From: "Hui Ben " </G=Hui/S=Ben/OU2=IL02M/OU=ILBH/P=MOT/A=MOT/C=US/@email.mot.com>
Subject: RE: This 'n' that

sorry i thought you were refering to the small glass ones..

_______________________________________________________________________________
/DDV=\/G=Hui\/S=Ben\/OU2=IL02M\/OU=ILBH\/P=MOT\/A=MOT\/C=US\/@email.corp.mot.com
/DDT=RFC-822/OU2=SMTPGW/OU=ILBA/P=MOT/A=MOT/C=US/
Cc: 
/DDV=\/S=CXKS46A@prodigy.com\/OU2=SMTPGW\/OU=ILBA\/P=MOT\/A=MOT\/C=US\/@email.co
rp.mot.com/DDT=RFC-822/OU2=SMTPGW/OU=ILBA/P=MOT/A=MOT/C=US/; 
/S=land-rover-owner@stratus.com/OU2=SMTPGW/OU=ILBA/P=MOT/A=MOT/C=US/
From: /S=dkenner@emr1.emr.ca/OU2=SMTPGW/OU=ILBA/P=MOT/A=MOT/C=US/ on Tue, Jan 3, 
1995 4:21 PM
Subject: RE: This 'n' that

Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

On 3 Jan 1995, Hui Ben  wrote:

> the amber and clear lenses can be bought. they are the same as the austin 
> mini  and any mini shop can get em for you. they come in either dual 
> filament or single filament. 

	You sure this is the 4" amber found on the Series III Land Rover?
	That particular light as found on the Series III (NA spec) was never
	on the Austin Mini (sold in Canada until 1980, while US sales
	ceased in 1968) to my knowledge.  (I have has a lot of Cdn Mini's)

	Rgds,

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Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 15:31:40 -0800
From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: RE: Land Rover carbs

John Karlsson posted the following query to the British Cars list:

>I find that parts for the original Solex carburetor (OOOPS!  I
>mean carburettor.) are no longer made, and after about a quarter
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
>     2899) affect icing, since there seems to be no provision for
>     heating the carb?

John,

There are actually two ways to mount the two-barrel Weber carb, a full 
custom manifold and an adapter piece which allows mounting on the stock 
Land-Rover manifold.  I believe both are made by Pierce manifolds in North 
California:

   Phone:  800-874-3728 or 408-842-6667 or fax to 408-842-6673

I suspect that Pierce's price may be lower than that of ABP and suggest that 
you give Pierce a call.  I believe that British Pacific (800-554-4133) may 
also have a lower price than ABP.

If you use the full Pierce manifold (undoubtedly the higher-performance 
set-up) you will lose the heat-riser connection to the exhaust manifold.  So 
you might as well go with the headers and, as you say, eliminate the 
manifold cracking nemesis.  Then, so I have read, to get the full 
performance potential from the set-up, you need to go to the cam-grind 
profile for the 2.5-liter Land-Rover four-cylinder engine.  Improvement in 
performance?  Yes.  Worth it?  Hard to say.  

Yes, you will have cold-starting and -running problems with this set-up, 
unless you build and install a heat-riser set-up (of sheetmetal) to capture 
sufficient heat from the headers and pass it to the manifold.  It seems to 
me that another approach would be to modify the air cleaner set-up (in 
which, by the way, the Pierce kit normally replaces the oilbath with a K&N 
dry filter) to have an air pickup which incorporates a heat riser.  Several 
cars that I have had have had such a pick-up and some have had summer and 
winter settings with a damper that you can move to determine whether the air 
is cold or hot.  I believe one even had a thermostatically controlled damper 
and that would seem to be the ideal solution.

Regarding the single-barrel Weber, it works O.K. but I am skeptical of the 
performance claims.  I have run one and felt that I lost performance, 
slightly, compared with the Zenith carb which it replaced (on a 1970 Series 
IIa 88").  There has been considerable discussion on the Land-Rover-Owner 
discussion group (LRO@team.net) about both types of Webers.  Some owners who 
have used the single-throat Weber have felt that it gave a performance increase.

If you pursue one of these modifications, please keep us "posted"
on the Land-Rover list (lro@team.net).  If you are not a member of this 
excellent Land-Rover discussion group, I encourage you to join.  You can 
e-mail me for further details, if you wish.
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
[ G.B.Pool(Redwood Vly, CA, USA)Appraiser,R/W Agent,Land-Rover aficionado ]
[ e-mail: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net ** Ph:(707)485-7220 H,(707)463-4265 W ]

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Subject: Re: Land Rover carbs 
Date: Tue, 03 Jan 1995 17:24:14 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <199501032331.PAA26129@pacific.pacific.net>you wrote:
> John Karlsson posted the following query to the British Cars list:
> IIa 88").  There has been considerable discussion on the Land-Rover-Owner 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> have used the single-throat Weber have felt that it gave a performance 
> increase.

	I have the Webber single barrel on my Rover.  I also have run a
Rochester carb.  While my gas mileage increased when I moved to the 
Webber, it was at the cost of horsepower.
 

-Benjamin Smith
----------------
 Science Applications Internation Corporation
 China Lake Naval Air Warfare Center
 bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil
 1972 Land Rover Series III 88

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Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 18:15:46 -0800
From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)
Subject: land rover sadness...

well, i had put all my tools and parts in the back of my rover the other
day in preparation for doing a bunch of work...  someone decided to relieve
me of the lot. the thing that really gets me is that the parts will
inevitably go to waste (at least someone will get the use of the huge sack
of tools... but what thief is going to know what to do wit a bunch of rover
parts)...

sigh...

-jory

among the items stolen:
-----------------------
new stuart warner oil pressure gauge with install kit
custom fabricated sheet metal piece to cover aux gas tank filler tube
oil pump rebuild kit (with sump gasket)
head gasket
new wipers
new horn
the used fuel pump i just bought from vance chin (i was going to rebuild it)
oil filter
new set of points
new set of plugs
2 of the Castrol/LMA large bottles of brake fluid

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From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Tue, 03 Jan 1995 21:21:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Discovery & Religion

> Note:  There is a recent Wall Street Journal article about Charlton
> Heston's
> Voyage Through the Bible, a CD-ROM version of the bible (available next
> Christmas), where Heston traverses the Holy Land in a Land Rover.
none
I've said a lot of words not mentioned in the Bible while traversing an
un-holy swamp in a Land Rover...  :)

  

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From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: D-90 hardtop
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 95 19:42:34 PST

I made my trek to Vermont to obtain my Hardtop. With the help of Rovers North
we got it installed without too much trouble. We also put in a back seat,
which was more trouble than the top. Spent a few nights at a Bed, and
breakfast and had a good time. (thanks Mike for the offer of the couch, and
dog, but I took my wife instead)
I guess we could offer low/no cost couch  and dogs as a new fad....

The trip home was actually noisier than the soft top. The door seals
whistled like mad at 70 mph with a 30 mph head wind. A little weather
stripping on the window edges took care of that problem. I also am in the
process of installing a headliner in the top. A trip the the local sporting
goods shop, and four 3/8 in. closed cell foam pads later I have a headliner.
I just glued the Foam to the roof with silicon glue as I may want to
remove it sometime. 

The one item I did notice with the top is that the support bar for the
soft top is removed. I reinstalled it under the foam headliner as I
was getting some oil-canning from the wind. I will see how the roof
likes the extra support. My only concern is that the support may
pop out the alpine windows.

Russ Burns

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From: UncleBrad@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 22:55:31 -0500
Subject: DownEast Rally

For those of you who like to plan ahead... the  DownEast VII is scheduled for
July 1st & 2nd, 1995. Its free.

It will actually be a Saturday, Sunday ,and Monday affair, the Monday
activity being a flight in the world's only DC-3/C-47 on floats if enough
people sign up. I don't know whether this part is free or not.

The organizer is Myles Murphy and there is traditionally a very large
turn-out. Lots of fun. You can call Myles Murphy at 207-789-5303 or write him
at RR2 Box 22, Lincolnville, Maine, 04849

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Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 20:39:56 -0800
From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john hess)
Subject: smog update plus questions

Howdy all,

This is my latest smog update;  most pertinent to those folks in
California, but maybe interesting to others.

Smog check #3 was a fail.  Not by alot  (50 ppm over, 550 not 500), but a
fail.  I think my insistence to keep coming back to the local guy finally
resulted in his working on the rover abit.  This meant I could pay him the
$50 to cover the state limit and now be off to a state referee station.  I
have an appointment for Jan 17.

Notes.  I changed spark plugs to split fire plugs.  I told the guy at Grand
Auto (no groans please) the correct plug was a champion N5, taken from the
brooklands reprint of the land rover manual.  From that number, he
translated to a splitfire SF40D.  My smog guy back checked the splitfires,
decided they were wrong, back decoded to champion and then in a last ditch
attempt to lower HC, changed the splitfires for RN9YC  (that's what is
written on my bill).  I wasn't going to argue.
Can someone please confirm the correct plug for me and my beast, a euro
2.6?  Are its plugs different from the NADA?  GAP is .030 inches, right?
Is the RN9YC acceptable or should I run out and get new N5's ?  The
splitfires were $6 each and didn't help me pass smog, so they are going
back.

Second, how do I set the timing on the beast-distributor vacuum advance
off?  What idle speed is best?  I realize it's a little late to ask these
questions, but I want to verify that I did things right.

My smog guy didn't think much of the gasohol fuel idea and I didn't try it.
Can someone tell me if the commericially available stuff (it is still
available in CA, right?) is high enough EtOH to significantly lower
emissions or would you definitely need to add ethanol or methanol?  I work
in a lab and have access to any and all organic chemicals.

Do the pour things down the carb decarbonization treatments really work?
Dave Place (? Ithink it was Dave, if not, my apologies to both Dave and the
slighted individual) recommends hot water and a friend says diesel fuel
works well.  I am skeptical but open to testimonials.  The reason I ask is
the smog guy wrote on my paperwork that a potential cause of high emissions
was carbon on the valves.  This is really irrelevant as I have now spent
the legal limit and will be ok for two years but on the off chance that
decarbonizing the beast will improve valve seating and thus emissions, I
may try it.

Should any machine shop be able to work on the 2.6 head or will any work
need to be done at some special place ie, rovers north?  I am thinking that
the future holds a rebuild to unlead gas specs.  Not today but sometime.

This is very long, I hope those not interested can skip to the next article.
Thanks to everyone so far.  bye

john f hess phd (wow, really?)
jfhess@ucdavis.edu
from home via modem
Land-
  -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and good ol reliable Mazda owner!

------------------------------
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From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 95 21:05:22 PST
Subject: Re: 	alternator/charging/ser 3

I seem to recall through various friends in the past w/series 3 charging 
problems that, after ripping everything out by the roots and tearing out great 
hunks `o hair in diagnosing the culprit, that it turned out to be the charging 
warning lamp itself! That this 2-bit part will actually open the circuit if 
the bulb has failed...!

So check this out before you spend gazillions on the bigger bits...

regards
Jim
roverheadus thrombosis scatterbrainum

jpappa01@interserv.com

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From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com
Date: Tue, 3 Jan 95 21:15:48 PST
Subject: Re: 	The 1995 Defender 90

We finally got in the first 1995 model year Def 90 at the dealership and there 
are some detail changes... some better, some ??

The first unit in is black. Black a regular production color for 95 (limited 
run of 100 of them for 1994), replacing Arles Blue! No more blue (for now). 
Local dealership still has some blues in stock - if anyone dying for blue, let 
me know...

The 1995 looks terrific with the new Bestop full tilt. Fits tight. No more 
snaps. Clear windows! Although no more alpine lights... too bad. 

Yes, the rear lights ARE round now! Wow. Really strange, but probably the 
looks will grow on me eventually. I finally got used to the square ones from 
the 110 and `94 Def90. Not at all same round ones as on euro-spec cars. Same 
layout as square lights.

Neat little door *map* pockets. S`pose this could be fitted to earlier 
models... Improved (anything would have been improvement) rear speakers in 
somewhat larger baffles. Different head unit is now *CD-ready* for optional CD 
changer-powered subwoofer unit. New A-frame front brush bar now readily avail. 
Large diameter tube used.

That's about it.  one *aluminum* conniston green hardtop in stock but its 
already gone. 
Methinks that the black Defender 90 with the grey fiberglass hardtop installed 
and star alloys would make quite the striking looking land rover!

See ya!

Jim
roverheadus dumbstrukus infatuatum 

jpappa01@interserv.com

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Date: Tue, 3 Jan 1995 21:33:21 -0800
From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)
Subject: Re:    The 1995 Defender 90

 >Methinks that the black Defender 90 with the grey fiberglass hardtop
installed
>and star alloys would make quite the striking looking land rover!

i saw one of this description recently (parks at a gym near my house). it
was the first defender i've seen that made me consider getting rid of my
own rover (if i had an extra $15K sitting around)....

-jory

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From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 04 Jan 1995 01:06:23 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: sacul (lucas backwards)

Jimmy Patrick sez....
> Lucas is here.
none
----snip---
> I think the place to start is with the little round switch that the key
> goes in and that has the switch around the outside for the running lamps
> and the original headlight switch. Sometimes when I turn off the key, the
> motor goes on running, not like dieseling on but like it was never

There was some discussion about something like this a while back. The
keyswitch portion of the combined switch turns on/off battery voltage to the
ignigtion, oil pressure light, charge light and a number of other circuits.
Certainly, there may be a problem with the switch if you can't turn off the
ignigtion. If the switch were to close *without* the key in the lock it
would cause a battery drain BUT you would see the oil pressure and hopefully
the charge lights on at the same time. Just like turning the key ON without
starting the truck.
 
> The headlamps are now on a separate switch. Can you put too much headlamp
> on a rover, I mean one that draws too much power for the alternator??

Yup, you could... You could exceed the output capacity of the alternator and
be just draining the battery. 

> Maybe my battery is knackered and won't charge up, but I'd hate to get a
> new one and then run that one flat right away too. Is there a crank
> starter available for land-rovers as an option.

Get the battery checked to begin with. Yes, you can get a hand-crank. Fits
through the hole in the bumper.

> Can anyone help me with a place to start. I am new to Land-Rovers and
> Lucas systems. It is negative-ground.

Not a lot of mystery to Lucas, just a lot of common sense. Check the real
simple stuff to begin with. Battery condition (mentioned previously) is
important. Battery connections have to be good. The fan belt has to be in
good condition and properly tightened or it won't spin the alternator fast
enough to charge. Speaking of which, do you have an anternator or generator?
The alternator will have an internal voltage regulator. The generator has a
regulator mounted high on the bulkhead with a lot of wires plugged in to it.
Both the alternator and generator have brushes inside which can wear out and
produce a weak output. So much for the simple stuff. If you can't find
anything up to this point, then check all the wiring to the alternator or
generator as the case may be. Could be dirty or weak connections.

The absolute worst thing is that some bloody electrical genius decided to
rewire things to his idea of perfection.. Then you have some sparks to chase
for a while..

Well.. this lot should keep you off the streets for a bit! Good luck with
it.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P.      
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

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  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 

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