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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 55 | [not specified] |
2 | maloney@wings.attmail.co | 50 | Re: To Buy or not to Buy |
3 | jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john | 34 | 6 cyl engine and smog test |
4 | sim1@cornell.edu (Steve | 73 | Re: Just curious on Series I |
5 | pparsons@ppsol.com (Pete | 34 | Oil Filter part # for 94 discovery? |
6 | Steven M Denis [denis@o | 56 | Re: 6 cyl engine and smog test |
Subject: Re: To buy or not to buy? Date: Wed, 28 Dec 1994 09:21:46 -0800 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> In message <199412232258.RAA14127@postoffice4.mail.cornell.edu>you wrote: > some advice. The body panels are in great shape with only a few minor > dings. The frame has a new rear crossmember, and is reasonably solid. So far so good. Did you bang on the frame with a hammer? I don't personally care if the panels are dinged up. It's the mechanicals that are important to me. > There > is a lot of rot in the door pillars near the hinges, and in the footwells. > One of the side curtains has a broken mount, and is slightly rusty aroung > the frame. The firewall (doorposts, footwells, etc) is one piece. You could weld or rivet in replacements for the footwells. The doorpillers are harder to fix. Then again mine are fairly rusted. The firewall is one of the few pieces that is steel and tends to rust out. Is the rust in the door pillers going to effect how the door is hung in the near furture? If the hinge is going to rip out/fail then this would need to be fixed rather quickly. > The drivetrain is all original(no overdrive), and is reported to > be trouble free. The engine has a Weber carb and headers. It is not > currrently running, but the owner assures me that it just needs a set of > points and new gas. I like the Weber single barrel carb because (with the overdrive) I can get 18 mpg at 55 to 60 mph. And max speed (for me) running with no roofrack, on the flat, with no wind, was ~78 mph. If all the the Rover needs is new points and gas. Get a set of points and bring some gas. Check it out. while you're at it check the compression. Getting it running on the spot will give you more information on how good the vehicle is. When I got my SIII 88 from a friend of Dad's it wasn't running, but only needed "to have the wireing harness put back it and the carb cleaned". We paid $1500 for it. Then there was the $2000 in a rebuilt engine not too long later (it needed $1500 in APB parts anyway), ... The better picture that you have to the condition, the less surprizes you have later. > Any offer I make will be contingent on its being > driveable. He is asking $2500, but he might thake $2000. It depends. This may be fair, it may be too much. I'd saythat $2500 would be a good upperlimit for this vehicle. -Benjamin Smith ---------------- Science Applications Internation Corporation China Lake Naval Air Warfare Center bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil 1972 Land Rover Series III 88 ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941228 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 1994 14:53:14 -0500 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Subject: Re: To Buy or not to Buy Braman writes: > The drivetrain is all original(no overdrive), and is reported to > be trouble free. The engine has a Weber carb and headers. It is not > currrently running, but the owner assures me that it just needs a set of > points and new gas. Braman, Ben made some excellent points - make sure the frame is solid and that it will run. I would be careful with a vehicle that is not running. If "all it needs is points & gas", he would have put points and gas in it and gotten it running. With a non-runner with a rusty bulkhead and rusty doortops, I think that $1500 is a high max figure. If you can get it running and it moves around ok, then $2000-$2500 would be a fairer price (in my economically challenged opinion). For the bulkhead repairs, the toeboard and kick panels for both sides will total over $100. The top & bottom pieces for the door posts total $140 for both sides. Then you have to have someone cut and weld them in. For the "rusty side curtains" (I assume you mean door tops), they go for about $300 for the pair with window tracks & hardware (no glass). And if it has been sitting, you can bet on all new wheel cylinders, and possibly master cylinder and clutch hydraulics. If he's got a "Weber & headers" chances are that it's a 2 barrel Weber. The 2 barrel needs a bit of fabrication to get the linkage to fully open the throttle and does not run as well in cold weather (and ice up) due to the intake manifold having no direct heat source (they can also be a bit funky if it hasen't been jetted correctly). Does go a bit faster though. Rich Zeigler has one on his 88 and really likes it. You can reach him at 802-773-1585 - tell him I said hi. Personally, I like Ben's single barrel Weber with cast exhaust manifold better. I would say that if you can get it running well, budget another $1500-$2000 to take care of all the niggley things that it will need (bring a point file and just clean up and set the points that are in it). Good luck! Bill maloney@wings.attmail.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941228 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 1994 13:42:56 -0800 From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john hess) Subject: 6 cyl engine and smog test Howdy, I would like to know if any owners of rovers with 6 cyl engines can provide me with emissions data for hydrocarbon levels in exhaust at idle speed. I have the european, not NADA 6 but there's no way I'm going to tell the state my 6 cyl is different from the one in their book. I would like to know if this type of engine has any chance of emitting less than 500 ppm HC (that sounds really low! 500 parts per million) at idle. My smog retest was a fail; the mechanics adjusted the carb to try to lower levels but couldn't. It runs great!!!!! just pollutes. I will check exhaust valves and points when it stops raining. I adjusted timing (advanced it). I checked intake valves (one had too big a gap), adjusted points, I changed the spark plugs, bought the splitfire ones because I read some good comments about them (Here?) They are $6 each! But they have a 90 day money back guarantee. I hope they help me pass the smog test; they advertise better combustion which yields more power and gas mileage. I just want less HC in the exhaust. I will go back this week for visit #3. Any other ideas? Thanks In Advance, john f hess phd (wow, really?) jfhess@ucdavis.edu from home via modem Land- -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and good ol reliable Mazda owner! ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941228 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 1994 19:03:01 -0500 From: sim1@cornell.edu (Steve MARGOLIS) Subject: Re: Just curious on Series I Randy Rose asked for information about turn signals for Series I 107 station wagons, esp. 1957. Here's more information than you may have wanted. In all of the following, the number in parentheses is the original Land Rover part number: >What kind of turn signal switch do you have -- The flasher unit fitted to all 1955-57 Station Wagons and North America Dollar area (NADA) vehicles was the Lucas LU FL3 35003 A (232402). The switch was the Lucas LU PRS7 031618 (264370). The warning light was LU 38125A (264429) with a LU 987 (232590) bulb and a green lens (271915). This switch was installed on a mounting plate (264369) in the dash, and would turn itself off after some amount of time, or as Randy described it: -self canceling (suction cup type with setable delay, when in need of a rebuild, don't have any delay and have to be held while turning)-. On my 1957 107 SW, it would signal a turn for about 45 seconds in the heat of summer, and about 5 seconds in the winter. The switch looked very much the same as in my cousin's 1957 MGA that I used for my drivers license test. The Land Rover part number for the flasher unit complete assembly was (264784) which seems to have contained all the above plus the wiring harness, screws, washers, clips, grommet, and side and flasher lamps. I have the Lucas and LR part numbers for all those parts too, >On the rear, what type of lenses do you have. How are they held in, >brand, size, glass/plastic. Only specifics if they are original. >Are they seperate units from the brake lights? Where on the body are >the lenses mounted. This is little harder. The Land Rover manuals I have are a little less illuminating, but here it is anyway: There were two 'Stop tail lamps' fitted for 1955-57 NADA vehicles. The Lucas part number was LU 53405 B (264350). The parts that made up the Stop tail lamps are: Body and red lens, LU 526436 (264779); Bulb holder interior, LU 573828 (264782); Bulb, LU 380 (264590); and Rubber for back plate seating, LU 526377 (264783). Unfortunately, my rear lights and their wiring were not original when I bought the vehicle in 1970, and the parts book doesn't illustrate the 55-57 lights, but does refer to the Body and red lens as one piece. The Stop tail lights for 1954 were completely different, even the bulb was different, LU 361, and that's the stop light illustrated. My wagon has a pair of lights on the lower part of the body on either side of the door. Those lights function as tail and flasher lights, and some bozo before me had mounted a light on the left side of the rear body just above the frame and that was wired as the (only) stop light. It is clear from the wiring diagram and from a picture and description in the instruction manual that this arrangement was bogus. The bottom of the lights seem to be on about the same horizontal plane as the bottom of the door handle opening on the rear door. The flashing indicator lamps description from the instruction manual says "When the control switch is moved in direction of intended turn, the stop lamp circuit for the side concerned is cut out and the stop lamp bulb will commence to flash in conjuction with the flasher filament in the side lamp until the switch is cancelled...." What ever lights I had for the rear got smushed a long time ago (I don't even remember how) and I found a pair of Yankee lenses that fit. The Yankee lenses are pointy, and I do remember the ones that were there were flat (and probably glass, but I'm not 100 percent certain about that). The license plate hanger and light is entirely separate for NADA vehicles (and makes no sense to me for a station wagon), but that's a whole other subject. No adaptors on the rear axles so that it takes standard IIA-III axle half shafts - as I found out when I had one break, and got a Series II half shaft from a friend. The Series I half shafts are different lengths than later ones. Steve Margolis 1957 107 Station Wagon, Series I, Still in kit form in Maine (Damn!) serial number 13470093 engine number 114707468 ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941228 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: pparsons@ppsol.com (Peter C. Parsons) Subject: Oil Filter part # for 94 discovery? Date: Wed, 28 Dec 94 19:35:52 MST Hey Roverites, What is the correct 'generic' oil filter for the '94 disco. (I haven't been able to get a service manual from RN, and it ain't in the owners manual. The auto store I went to today couldn't find it for sure.). Also, to rehash, the jist of the thread on first oil changes it to not use synthetics until the 3d oil change, right? A good 10w30 should work (castrol??) well, I understand. Thanks, -Peter | _______ ||--' | \_|_ T|___ +-- ] L|_/-\____/-\*} (O) (O) '94 Disco, New Antenna now installed!... * denotes location of yesterdays offroad lesson... (score tree root 2, novice offroader 1) Ski rack shown in hopes of appeasing the snow gods to get some snow in Colorado! -Peter C. Parsons, __________ |/\^_/v^/\^| | SKYROVR | |_colorado_| ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941228 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 1994 22:57:41 -0500 (EST) From: Steven M Denis <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU> Subject: Re: 6 cyl engine and smog test Well....hydrocarbons means too rich or too lean....If it was too lean, you get unburned fuel due to a misfire..but you say it runs fine so I'll leave that bit alone... Too rich..could be that the jet and needle are worn...I'm wondering if the jet and needle are wrong for the engine...the cam and intake and all is different on the NADA and if you installed the NADA carb and distributor on the Euro engine it is possible that it won't *ever* be right.. Your float could be doing the Titanic thing and the idle air flow is enough to pull fuel from the main system...gosh I wish I rememberd these carbs better.... Were the last adjustments you made an improvement or did it get *real* bad? I'm thinking that if you were to wildly retard the timing that it would run *real* hot and tend to burn off the Hydrocarbons..this was popular in the early 70's,they actually had vacuum *retarded* distributors that would cause the engine to run hot at an idle just for this purpose...it tended to burn off valves and heads too.....but to get it through a test it would be OK....They stopped doing this when the federal test required a limit on Oxides of nitrogen..(NOX) The high combustion temperatures cause the normally inert Nitrogen to combine with oxygen and make all manner of nasty stuff...the plan then called for an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system..this was not, as some suppose, and attempt to "reburn" the exhaust, but the exhaust gas was introduced into the intake to take up volume in the combustion chamber which precluded the engine from injesting a full charge of fuel and air and thereby prevented the high temperatures and the NOX emmisions...whew..... Ok we got side tracked a bit there..the NADA engine is quite a bit more powerful than the EURO engine...the additional power was mostly cause by the burning of more fuel...it was more efficient due to its higher compression ratio (so some of the power came from better use of the fuel) simply put, the carb may be over fueling the engine at low speeds. The Euro engine is draws a *big* gasp of air at low speeds due to the cam The NADA engine did not "pull" as well at low speeds due to its high speed cam..so the carb would be set up rich at idle..if there is an actual idle jet..*not* the needle valve mixture screw, but a real jet, this would have to be changed to get the HC down to limits....whre one *finds* the correct jet is beyond me....who is the carb expert here? The correct jet may not exist as the NADA and the Euro engines used different carbs.....you then would have the wonderful job of soldering up the jet and then redrilling it..yuck...One more thing..put a 192 degree thermostat in it....Heat is good! Burn up that HC jazz....... Try cranking the timing back, lowering the float level and sprinkling Holy Water on the intake manifold..ya never know..... steve..... "HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..." "NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon Steven M. Denis " "-1957 107 Station Wagon PO Box 61 " "-1964 109 Pickup Erieville,New York USA " "_1967 109 NADA SW 13061 ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941228 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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