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Date: Mon, 12 Dec 94 09:13:57 EST
From: robdav@sunshine.vab.paramax.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re:  The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

For those of you who think its fine to remove the 90 rool cage take time
to read an article in the December LRO called "Disaster in the Desert".
Nice couple traveling in Series III 109 with rool cage.  109 takes tumble
leg is severed at knee.  "before leaving UK we had an internal roll cage
fitted at Ken Slavins'.  Without this we would have not stood a chance."
Take the gospel from the horses mouth...  Vehicle totaled blah blah blah.
I was hit in a 109 56 stiches to the forehead.  I won't drive a canvas with
out one of the military roll bars.  Its not as safe as a cage, but its a lot
better protection over the hoop set.  For those of you with only a hoop
for roll over protection, may got keep you from roll overs.
Cheers
R&D

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Dec 94 10:09:16 EST
From: robdav@sunshine.vab.paramax.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re:  The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

I'm doing an engine conversion and have talked to Scotty, thanks TerriAnn.
He is out of adapters, but will have a new batch in a few months.  Does
anyone have or know of an extra.  Steve Johnson had a repaired one for
sale at the ROAV rally, but I have not been able to reach him.  His had
been broken at one time.  Anyway please help.
I'm going to try the marine version of the Iron Duke 151, which has a longer str(sorry overran) ,which has a longer stroke, alot more torque, and 
displacement to 181 (3.0 liter).  Get this its rated @ 140 bhp.  It bolts
right in, need only Scotty's adapter.
Also, I would like to have a chat with someone who is running this engine
to find out what manifolds and water inlet pieces they used.  Pleas help
if possible.
Looking up to not slowing down to 20 mph while towing with only 77bhp.
R&D

------------------------------

Date: 12 Dec 94 10:33:14 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Land Rover Cold Starts

Julian (Julianbak@aol.com) wondered:

> (..snip..) Does anyone know if the Zenith carb is better with cold starts. I
> am thinking of switching to the Zenith, but only if it improves the
> situation.

Frankly, I don't know any carb that's good with cold starts, at least not
on the Land Rover. It's efi that has let me see the light (yeah!)
*If* you're considering to switch carbs, then replace the Solex with a
Weber, if anything. Changing from a Solex to a Zenith would be a bit like
coming out of the rain and getting under the shower... sort of.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: "Richard Lucking" <BU063@ist2.co.umist.ac.uk>
Date:          Mon, 12 Dec 1994 15:47:53 GB/EIRE
Subject:       Sump plug stuck

A quick introduction before my problem:

I am Richard Lucking, a second year Computation undergraduate at 
UMIST, in Manchester (England for all you over the 'pond'). I have a 
'69 SIIA 88" Hard top with 2.25 petrol engine. I only bought it a 
week before the start of this semester, and have had to leave it at 
home :-( . My dad has been working on it while I am here, with me 
just ordering bits when he needs them! (Honest, I didn't ask him 
to!).

My *current* problem is that the sump oil plug is stuck. All the 
bolts/plugs have been put on *very* tight (The wheel nuts needed a 5' 
long bar to get enough torque on them! The previous owned payed a 
garage to service it and I think they used a power tool to tighten 
them - any ideas?). In addition to this the sump plug has been 
rounded off, and *nothing* my dad has tried will undo it (Spanners, 
mole wrenches etc.) and I think it would be a good idea to change the 
oil before I drive it to much, as the previous owner (My parents 
friends son!) didn't think it had been changed since he got it (about 
8 months!)
 
Thanks in advance
Richard Lucking (Tricky)
------------------------------------------------
From:   Richard Lucking
        email:  bu063@ist2.co.umist.ac.uk
        phone:  (0161) 224 6641 (flat 48)
================================================

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: More Defenders on Le Continong
Date: Mon, 12 Dec 94 16:18:21 GMT

Just seen on the Midlands TV news.
Land Rover have won a sixteen million quid contract to
supply Defenders to various Italian public services.delivery
to commence in March next year.Forestry people among others.
Didnt say which model of Defender.Anyone got any more details,
since we are usually the *last* to find out!
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Dec 1994 11:58:48 +0001 (EST)
From: Randy Parker <rparker@world.std.com>
Subject: Re: GATT

On Fri, 9 Dec 1994, Morgan Hannaford wrote:

> When I read about the new GATT proposal being embraced by the
> Demos and GOP alike, there was only one thing I could think of:
> What does it mean for new Land Rover and spares prices here in
> the U.S.?  In particular, this huge tariff on 2-door SUVs (e.g. 90s).
none

FWIW, I asked the LRNA zone mgr about GATT & D90 pricing and he didn't 
think it had any impact.   I don't quite understand that -- I mean, 
wasn't that the WHOLE point of GATT?  Wonderful politicians....

 Cheers,
 -- RP 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Dec 94 10:28:02 PST
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: RR fuel problem

The other night I ran out of fuel and when I filled up the tank it only took
18.5 gallons instead of 20, in spite of my best topping up efforts. This 
seemed odd to me as I'm sure on previous occasions I have put in 18.5
gallons immediately after the warning light came on; this time the light
had been on for a while.

Does anybody have any ideas on this? When I ran out of fuel, I was parked
and restarting after leaving the vehicle during dinner. It started,
then conked out after reversing out of my parking spot. I would have thought
1.5 gallons remaining would be enough to whet its appetite.

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Dec 94 10:44:37 PST
From: labranch@sybase.com (Jason LaBranch)
Subject: It's a baby!  My First Rover

Hey Folks,

Well, I have my first Rover, thanks to Granville Pool.  Granville
delivered it this saturday to my home.  It may be a few weeks
before I get it reliably on the road but I am patient.  Also, Morgan
Hannaford came over to see the beast delivered and we all went and
had a beer at Carrera's in Emeryville.

On Sunday I went out to look the Rover over (hey that rimes) and
three older ladies came out of the woodwork with oohs and aahs.
They were unsuspecting Land Rover buffs.  One had been looking
for a Land Rover to buy for a long time.  The other had a friend
who owned one and had not driven it for NINE YEARS and had finally
just given to the lady.  It was all quite amussing.

It is a 1970 88" series IIa and I promise to you all that I will
take very good care of it.

Jason LaBranch

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Dec 94 15:02:24 EST
From: robdav@sunshine.vab.paramax.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Engine Conversion: adapter & tech info

Well there may be a solution to towing at 20 mph (uphill).  I talked to
Scotty (thanks MaryAnn) and found that the marine version of the Iron
Duke four cylinder would fit into the Land Rover with little modification.
The engine will fit Scotty's adapter and produces 140 hp with  more low
end torque than the original 77hp 2.25 petrol.  The longer stroke marine
engine called the 181 (for displacement in inches) measures 3.0 liters.
Questions:
Does anyone have a Scottys adapter for sale... Scotty has none in stock
and will not make a production for a while.  Steve Johnson had one that
had been repaired, but I have not been able to reach him.

Does anyone know anyone that has sucessfully completed this conversion?

Does anyone know which manifolds to use?  The car version of the Iron
Duke 151 has a different head and the manifolds are not interchangable.
The early version of the Iron Duke 151 (2.5 liter) was used in jeeps and
postal vehicles, but I do not know what year to ask for and what vehicle.
You know the story we can't look up the part without first knowing what
vehicle and associated year, I'm told.
The low end torque and 140hp sounded soo good I already bought an engine.
help
R&D

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Dec 1994 11:59:03 -0800
From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)
Subject: fuel pump query & IBEX note (or vice versa?) + misc rambling

So, my rover (74, 88") is suddenly in need of some care (after driving
cross country with all my belongings and commuting a few hundred miles a
week for several months).

1. My fuel pump is leaking. It has been the caue of problewms before. I am
inclined to replace it. I would rebuild it, but last time I tried to do
that, I discovered that it was not "genuine" part, and could not be rebuilt
(I can't identify the make). Anyway, when I spoke with RN about this a
while back, they indicated that the original fuel pump w/sediment bowel was
no longer available. Is there a source for these original fuel pumps. I
like the idea and practice of the sediment bowel, and the ability to
rebuild so easily. Otherwise, how do people feel about the newer
sediment-bowel-less pumps?

2. My brakes suddenly got weird. I've been suspecting a hub seal leak for a
while (familiar squealing noises invoking memories of a previous hub seal
failure) but a few days ago, the brakes changed feel entirely. They don't
seem to be leaking fluid (I redid the brakes entirely during the last 4
years... new shoes quite recently)... it just feels like the power assist
has gone away altogether or that they suddenly went way out of adjustment.
I haven't pulled the drums off yet (it's been raining nd I am too much of a
weather-wimp... some sort of backlash after working in the boston
snowdrifts last year ;) When I tried locking the brakes yesterday on wet
pavement, the front right and rear left wheels locked reliably, but the
other two just kept rolling. Hmmmm...

3. I am going to take a crack at my oil pump to cure that pesky drop in oil
pressure. Somehow the choice of a green light for oil pressure loss seems a
bit strange (makes me want to hit the gas pedal when I see it). Probably
also replace my dead oil pressure gauge.

4. Gonna get my cracked windshield fixed (it's actually covered by my
insurance with $0 deductible!). Anyone had their front glass replaced by a
normal car glass place? Are they able to deal with a series rover? Guess
I'll find out..

5. I removed the rear seats. They were really space-inefficient. Anyways, I
want to continue on my soundproofing efforts, and they were in the way. For
short trips, I'll let the passengers suffer ;) I remember someone on the
list mentioned buying some closed cell foam from a good rubber supply store
in Berkeley (or SF?). I'd be interested in that reference if the original
poster is still around (they were doing a seat-box installation I believe).

6. Gonna do a general tuneup (before going cross country, the engine was
amazingly smooth... but the miles are starting to show) and possibly adjust
the tappet arm clearences (is that the right word... I always describe that
wrong and someone thinks I am ripping the whole engine apart!). Of course,
new oil all round (it has been faithfully changed every 2-3K).

7. With respect to IBEX acquisition. Anyone have any idea what the "new"
IBEX (or whatever it's gonne be called) will be like? Foers said he's send
info when it was available, but I am over-eager...

Also, Granville mentioned building an IBEX on a RR base (and John Foers
supported this general tactic in his letter to me). Granville: I was
wondering if you were using the wrecked RR as a starting point purely for
title purposes, or because of the number of common parts involved? In some
ways, it seems more reasonable (easier?) to get/start-with a hosed series
vehicle, which looks more generally like the IBEX, than with the more
modern RR whose end appearence will be at totally changed (thinking in
terms of getting inpected, and of the relative ease of finding a dead
series vehicle). Most of the parts will be replaced in either case. I
realize you still need to use a lot of the RR/Defender components, but is
that the main issue? Moreover, what are the rules/laws governing kit cars?
Anyone know these and how they would apply to this situation? Finally,
where is the best place to search for totalled RRs?

It sounds like there are at least 3 people in NoCal USA interested in the
IBEX... I am in favor of sourcing/fabrication collaboration. Anyone else
game?

jory bell
jory@mit.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Dec 1994 16:25:48 -0500
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: This 'N GATT

Richard asks:

none
My *current* problem is that the sump oil plug is stuck. ... In addition to 
this the sump plug has been rounded off, and *nothing* my dad has tried will 
undo it (Spanners, mole wrenches etc.) and I think it would be a good idea to 
change the oil before I drive it to much, as the previous owner (My parents 
friends son!) didn't think it had been changed since he got it (about 8 
months!)
none

Looks like Uncle Mike isn't the only one who's been abusing those little moles 
:-).

You could try several things (pull the sump 1st in all cases):

1.
1st pull the sump (yup, it'll be messy.  REAL messy.  Even Uncle Mike's 
thickest Wooly Pully won't be able to soak up the spill you're about to 
create).  Then clean it thoroughly (and yourself - used motor oil contains 
some nasty carcinogens).  Now, with a good vice grip wrench at the ready and 
pre adjusted to get the best grip (but not on the plug yet), heat 
the pan around the plug with a propane torch as hot as you can get it.  Then 
(with the sump secured in a vice taking care not to warp it) clamp on the vice 
grips and try to turn it off.  Hopefully it is not cross threaded as well.

2.
Another avenue would be to cut/grind the head off all the way to the plug 
core.  Hopefully the plug head/washer will have been the only cause of the 
binding and it will screw out using a pick or by hand.

3.
Drill the plug and attempt to remove it with an easy-out (recommend doing #2 
first).  Keep in mind that if it were in there tight enough to round off the 
flats when faced with a proper wrench, to unscrew it will require more than 
enough torque to snap an easy-out (Just try drilling one of those things 
out).

4.
Good lord!  You're in the UK anyway, so just pick up a used sump for a couple 
of quid and save yourself a pile of aggravation 8-o (if you've buggered it up 
trying 1-3, you'll have to do this anyway).  It's a good idea to pull the pan 
and clean it out with any vehicle you've just purchased.  You'll get an idea 
of how much of your bearings are no longer in their shells and the oil will 
stay cleaner MUCH longer.

Good Luck!

Bob contemplates:

(with the sump secured in a vice taking care not to warp it) clamp on the vice 
I'm going to try the marine version of the Iron Duke 151, which has a longer 
str(sorry overran) ,which has a longer stroke, alot more torque, and 
displacement to 181 (3.0 liter).  Get this its rated @ 140 bhp.  It bolts
right in, need only Scotty's adapter.
(with the sump secured in a vice taking care not to warp it) clamp on the vice 

Marine engines do as a rule put out greater HP and torque.  This is due to 
differences in bore, stroke, and CAM.  This is all fine as long as you are 
prepared to accept reduced low end and high end power/torque.  The cam 
is the largest factor in this equasion.  Marine cams are designed to produce 
maximum power in a relatively narrow rpm band (as compared to the wide rpm 
variations in automotive use).  Automotive cams must provide good power at low 
rpms for accelleration (as you always have a direct link to the pavement), 
where in a marine cam all you do is push the throttle forward, suffer a little 
cavitation as the prop winds up, and you're on your way.  If it's for your own 
use and the engine was cheap/free, go ahead.  It would be fun to see how the 
combination works out (Hopefully the manifolds and head gaskets will be 
interchangeable, they're not always between marine & automotive versions of 
the same engine).  If you plan to turn around and sell it, make sure the buyer 
is aware of and comfortable with what you have done.

Randy Responded to Morgan:

> What does it mean for new Land Rover and spares prices here in
> the U.S.?  In particular, this huge tariff on 2-door SUVs (e.g. 90s).
none

FWIW, I asked the LRNA zone mgr about GATT & D90 pricing and he didn't 
think it had any impact.   I don't quite understand that -- I mean, 
wasn't that the WHOLE point of GATT?
> What does it mean for new Land Rover and spares prices here in

The point is that they want to pocket the 25% they will save from the 
elimination of the truck/SUV (or whatever it's called) tax as a nice little 
windfall.  Why pass on the savings to the American consumer when our friends 
(well SOME of them anyway, Dixon) to the north are happy to pay the same 
amount W/O the import tax? :-)  It's too bad, really.  If they could bring it 
down to about $20K US (OK, 33%), then some of us snobby (and economically 
challenged) series owners would be able to get a shot at one (HELLO JIMBO!!! - 
high volume @ moderate price > low volume sales @ high price - well maybe 
anyway).  

Bill

I wave at tsunamis.

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Dec 1994 16:05:46 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: fuel pump query & IBEX note (or vice versa?) + misc rambling

On Mon, 12 Dec 1994, jory bell wrote:

> 1. My fuel pump is leaking. It has been the caue of problewms before. I am
> inclined to replace it. I would rebuild it, but last time I tried to do
> that, I discovered that it was not "genuine" part, and could not be rebuilt
> (I can't identify the make). 

	AC.  It is marginally more to replace the whole thing than to rebuilt
	the fuel pump.  Assuming you have a petrol, the pumps are available
	from the UK.  I picked one up a year ago.  The only annoying 
	aspect is the sedeiment bowls are now plastic.  Happily I have
	a set of glass Scotch shot glasses already... :-)

> rebuild so easily. Otherwise, how do people feel about the newer
> sediment-bowel-less pumps?

	Didn't even know there were any around.  Unless they are a lot 
	cheaper...

> 4. Gonna get my cracked windshield fixed (it's actually covered by my
> insurance with $0 deductible!). Anyone had their front glass replaced by a
> normal car glass place? Are they able to deal with a series rover? Guess
> I'll find out..

	They should have a sheet of flat glass kicking about to cut to shape.

> It sounds like there are at least 3 people in NoCal USA interested in the
> IBEX... I am in favor of sourcing/fabrication collaboration. Anyone else
> game?

	Interest around here is more along the 101 FC lines... :-)

	Rgds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Dec 1994 15:12:12 -0600
From: Marcus Tooze <tooze@vinny.cecer.army.mil>
Subject: request address

Hey there,

I just bought a 1967 109 Safari Landrover and would like to join
your list.

What is the request address??

Marcus

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Dec 94 15:57:13 PST
From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
Subject: Gearbox Crossmember

All, 

I have a spare (new) replacement SII/III gearbox crossmember. Any takers @ 
$35.00. First come, first serve. 

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Dec 94 16:46:20 PST
From: labranch@sybase.com (Jason LaBranch)
Subject: Mixing Fuels

Now that I have my new (old) Rover I will have some questions for all
you wise-old-people-who-have-come-before-me (yes that is one word).

Qestion:  I have read somewhere that the Land Rover engine, I beleive 
the 2.25 petrol engine, is capable of running with fuel mixtures such
as, petrol and diesel, or petrol and karosene.  Is this true?  What are
the advantages and disadvantages of this?  I would imagine you have
to tune the engine to do this.  What kind of tunning is required?  What
are good mixtures to use?

Thanks for your attention,
Jason LaBranch
70' Series IIA 88"

------------------------------

Date: 12 Dec 94 20:48:57 EST
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Subsciption

Please send me details of the method of subcribing to the Lro net. I am on
Compuserve , user I/d
75473,3572 and situated in Buffalo ,Western NY. I have a LWB which is currently
back home in the UK. I plan to import it to the Us in 95
   Regards Bill Leacock.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Dec 1994 20:59:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Gregory Brown <brow7767@mstr.hgc.edu>
Subject: Overdrives

Well the net is starting to get quiet so let me through out a question.  
Has any one had experience with rebuilding a Fairey overdrive?  I have a 
chance to possibly pick up a couple of boxes of what was at least one 
OD.  Now if I price the parts individually at R$N (someone used this abr. 
appropriatly) the price can clear $1000(US) and BP sells the new units 
for $660(US). This doesn't make sense.  Well what does go bad with the OD 
and what may cause them to whine??

As for the Series I offroad congrates and send some warmth this way.  
Mike if you would be so kind as to keep the cold weather in NY and out of 
CT it would make room for the warmth.

seeya

Greg Brown
'71 Series IIA 
needs OD and Warn M11 hubs and light guards and....oh I'm sorry this 
isn't the Santa hotline.......

------------------------------

From: WB6AGE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Dec 1994 23:15:32 -0500
Subject: Wheel stud replacement

Regarding wheel studs, I had a chronic problem of stripping out the screw in
studs on my 60 SII.  After the shocking discovery that RN wanted $129 each
for replacement hubs, I decided to be a little creative.

After pulling all the screw in studs, I checked out the assortment of
replacement wheel studs at NAPA.  It turns out that NAPA part 641-3137 is a
press in stud that replaces the original quite nicely. 
Installation requires that the existing hole be opened up aprox. 0.030 to
0.590 to accept the new press in stud. A matching wheel nut is part number
641-2072

Total cost per hub was, $10 for machining, $6 for studs $6 for  wheel nuts.

Bob Cosentino, WB6AGE@AOL.COM
1960 SII 88 Perkins conversion

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Dec 1994 20:37:02 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Waving, revisited

Been thinking about this a bit...  There's been a fair bit of discussion 
about waving to Range Rovers and Disco's, Disco's waving to RR's, RR's waving 
to LR's, etc.  Then someone said "I wave to everyone".  

Well, I kinda have to agree with this.  Land Cruisers, Jeeps, Blazers, etc. 
aren't the *enemy*, they're just another marque.  For whatever reason, they 
suit their owners better.  Nothing wrong with that.  As far as I'm 
concernced, if it's a non-standard vehicle, I'll wave.  They may not be a 
Land Rover Owner, but they are a like minded individual.

I also wave to truckers, RV's, and motorcycle gangs.  Why?  Well, partially 
because I'm a nice guy (at least I think so; there are plenty who would 
disagree), but mostly because Land Rovers are identifiable.  Old Scouts look 
like old Broncos, Old Jeeps look like old Land Cruisers, but Land Rovers look 
only like Land Rovers.  Sooner or later (mostly sooner, with my jinx), I'm 
going to be sitting by the side of the road broken down.  When an RV or a 
Trucker, or even a Hell's angel drives by, I want them to think kindly of 
Land Rovers, and maybe even offer assistance.  

And maybe it won't be *me* sitting by the side of the road, but some other 
LRO, and a trucker will come by and remember that other LRO who was nice and 
waved, and the trucker will stop and help.  Or maybe it *will* be me on the 
side of the road, and the Hell's Angels, or the Land Cruiser Owner will 
remember the time *you* waved and smiled, and they'll stop to help a fellow 
individualist.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                               

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Dec 1994 20:37:15 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Who needs a roll bar...

There was a story in the news a year or so ago hereabouts. Seems a bunch of 
teenagers were tooling along doing teenager-type things in a SUV-type thing 
with the top cut off.  Well, they managed to flip it, of course.

They're all dead now.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                               

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Dec 1994 20:37:13 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: I'm home!

Welcome back, and congratulations!  There's nothing like traveling in a Land 
Rover!  I hope you saw some great sights;  it sounds like you had a fantastic 
time!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                               

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Tue, 13 Dec 1994 02:18:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Overdrives

Well, Greg.. got yourself a Fairey 3-D jigsaw puzzel, eh? 

> Well the net is starting to get quiet so let me through out a question.  
> Has any one had experience with rebuilding a Fairey overdrive?  I have a 
> chance to possibly pick up a couple of boxes of what was at least one 

*And*, we have a nice c-c-c-cold winter ahead to figure out how lever a is
inserted in widget b which fits on sprocket d which rides in carrier f. 

I picked up a used OD a few years ago... Ran it for a year or two and then
the fine teeth stripped out of the input end of the mainshaft..  :(
I managed to pick up the needed parts for next to nothing (used stuff at an
ABP rally - they were clearing out thier "barn"). Tearing down and
re-assembling wasn't any big deal - certainly a lot easier than a
transmission. As far as building one from a box of parts... depends on how
well you can visualize a 3-D assembly from a 2-D exploded drawing. If you
really want to tackle it, I have the "Fitting Instructions and Parts List"
for the OD which I can copy and mail to you..

As to what goes wrong.. could be lots of things.. bearings, stripped teeth,
you name it. Hey.. if the box(s) of parts are cheap enough, go for it! One
can never have enough worn out Rover stuff lying about.

> Mike if you would be so kind as to keep the cold weather in NY and out of 
> CT it would make room for the warmth.

No, no.. we have more than enough cold to go around... We import it from
Canada, right Dixon?? Shoot, I just *love* listening to the suspension creak
in the cold.. and the engine go ruhh, ruhh, ruhh, ruhh, sputter, ruhh... and
the axels crack..

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern)       
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 

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