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From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Subject: lug nuts
Date: Thu, 8 Dec 94 10:46:53 GMT

Lug nuts:
Later LR and all RR lug nuts are 17/16 inch _or 27mm_.  Break out the
calcuators (slide rules for you Series types) to verify this.  27mm
sockets are common in metric half inch drive sets are are much easier
to find than 17/16.  Note that 15/16 is not nearly as well substituted
by 24mm, but it might help in an emergency on nuts that didn't require
breaker bars etc.

Drain Plugs
For those with raised half inch drain plugs - use half inch spanner or
adjustable (US = wrench or crescent?), no problem.

MOT test
I took my 79RR in for the annual UK MOT vehicle inspection.  As
expected it failed emissions and brake pipes.  Next day it passed
after balancing the carbs and fitting new caliper pipes which I
already had.  Cost = precisely nothing.  Not bad.  The tester thought
it was 'bl**dy tidy for a T-plater'.  He should see it after a w/e's
laning ;-).

Cheers,
Steve.

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: lug nuts
Date: Thu, 8 Dec 94 12:06:22 GMT

Hang about Steve....
My wheel nuts are 1 1/16".Very late 11A SWB,all LWB (I think),
all S111 are this size.Dont know about coilers or RR,though.
Looks like there's *three* sizes about......
Slide rule?Had to take me damned *boots* off to do that conversion.
Ran out of fingers...
Hang on to that MOT bloke,mate.At least he knows the breed.Most of
'em throw a wobbly when they see anything with big wheels and more
than one diff.They seem to think that if its a Range Rover you've got
money to burn(possibly true),or if its a Land Rover its *bound* to
have something hee can fail it on(undoubtedly true).That's why I take
mine to a village garage where the local farmers go.That way he's used
to people doing the absolute minimum to get it past.You just try getting
money out of a farmer!
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Piers E Montague <me92pem@brunel.ac.uk>
Subject: Greeyings
Date: Thu, 8 Dec 1994 12:22:07 +0000 (GMT)

Greetings to all you poor adicted people out there!

I have just herd of the list from a friend of mine in Germny and thought I
had better join up and see what's on.  

My name is Piers Montague (or "Perc"),and I be vrum Zumerzet (oops sorry 
slipping back into my native tounge there!), I come from Somerset (South
West England for all you foreigners), althouth I am at present stuck up 
in the smoke at Brunel Uni, West London (sadly doing a Mechanical Engineering
degree).

That's enough about me, lets talk Land-Rovers!!  I learned to drive at the 
tender age of 11 (11 years ago) in my Fathers SWB S2 petrol (his work vehicle
he was a landscape gardner) across the range of hills ibn Som called the 
Quantocks, not bad hay, first ever driving experience is off road on a L-R.
3 years later the S2 was sold as the gearbox was knackered and the chasis was
fast vanishing, sorry to say it went for 200 quid, aaaah, if only I had been
a few years older!

Now we have an ex-forestry commision S3 SWB petrol Full tilt (lovely in the 
summer but chily in winter months), that, although isnt mine I drive whenever
I am at home and spend loadsa money and time keeping on the road.

I think it is true to say that, although I am not actually a Land-Rover Owner,
I am a true Fanatic, just look at my sig. file (I will try and shrink it a bit
when I can work out how the hell to do so!), and when I can afford it....  :)

Cheerz 'en  anon,

                      PPPPP  EEEEE   RRRRR    CCCC   
                     PP   P EE      RR   R  CC   C 
                    PP PP  EEEE    RR RR   CC     
                   PP     EE      RR   RR CC   C 
                  PP     EEEEE   RR    RR  CCCC 
        -----------------------------------------------------
	Drink zcrump, Smoke bunnies, Eat lard, Live forever.
        ----------------------------------------------------- 

               Don't be a stick in the mud, be a 
                           LAND-
                             -ROVER  owner.

------------------------------

From: Piers E Montague <me92pem@brunel.ac.uk>
Subject: Story with a moral
Date: Thu, 8 Dec 1994 12:53:35 +0000 (GMT)

Are you sitting comfortably, then we shall begin.

The story involves a SIII petrol that smoked a bit.  Well, when I say a bit
I actually mean a bloody lot.  This thing would create a smoke screen at 
junctions big enough to loose my overdraft in!  She went throuhgh 1 gal of
oil for about 4 gals of prtrol! At about 14 mpg!!

Clearly something had to be done, the chap at the place where we had an  
outrigger replaced (I was stuck up in London for a few months) and the MOT done
said he didn't know what was wrong, but it was probably something terminal!

When at last I was able to do anything about it, it was decided by some of us
"have a guess merchants" that the Head Gasket might have gone, worse still
it might need a rebore.  The head was duely removed and the gasket was perfect,
the pistons then came out and the ring gaps were measured.  Instead of 15-20
thou they were abouy 1/4 inch!  Great I thought the problem had been found.
New rings went in (gap 25 thou, close enough!), and the whole lot went back 
together.  It still smoked!!

The next guess was the valve seals.  The head came off again and the valves 
were removed, cleaned up, reground and the oil seals replaced (the head had
already been skimmed).  The whole lot was reassembeled and, you've guessed it,
she STILL smoked.

By this time I was getting a bit fed up to say the least, I had spent hours 
working on the damn thing and about 200 quid, and it still looked like a 
rebore was in order, which I decided was beyond me, I havent got a covered
area to work in.

I went to a chap near me who does everything Land-Rover in a shed out behind
his house (Colin Feltham in Kilve, if anyone knows him).  I told him what had
been done and what was still happening.  He looked in the engine bay, listened
to the noise and then, using his penknife, he removed the cover from that flat
circular thing next to the carb (I still don't know what it's for, anyne help?)
takes out the little diaphrama and says "theres your problem, its got a hole 
in it".  So there we have it, the problem was fixed in about 5 mins, the only
tool used was a penknife and it cost me a fiver!!

The moral of this story, dear readers, as realised by my darling brother is
"Before screwing around, always check your Diaphram!"

Cheerz 'en  anon,
		Perc.          

     "So that's why they call 'em bangers!"........Blue Bottle (Goon show)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Dec 1994 09:33:07 EST
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: Internet virus

There *was* a virus circulating through the 'net last weekend.  It was a
trojan created by the "Internet Liberation Force", thought to be a subset
of the "Masters of Deception" a confederation of hackers.  The apparent or
intended target was another hacker group and their arch-rivals, the "Legion
of Doom".   The virus was delivered via E-mail.  Has anyone seen or know of
a code string so that I can append it to my anti-viral program?

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Dec 1994 09:32:52 EST
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: Third hinge

Putting on a third hinge is easy and ensures that the door doesn't get
sprung, especially if you carry a tire or jerry cans there.  On the body
box, the hinge hole will be drilled through the "chain plate" where the
fixings for a tailgate would normally go, while on the door, the holes go
through the raised (structural) edge.

Here's a tip to get perfect hinge alignment: remove the bolts from the top
and botton hinges, but leave the door on with the little brass bushes in
place.  Fit the new hinge onto a 1/4" rod 3-4' long.  Thread the rod
through the top and bottom hinges so that the new hinge will be in the
exact same plane.  Mark the holes, drill and secure with stainless hardware.

BTW, a 27mm socket is a better fit for for very late IIa and Series III lug
nuts than the 1 1/16"...and always carry a "cheater" bar.

        "Feminist? I'm more of a Fennemanist. I subscribe to the
        principle set forth by George Fenneman, Groucho Marx's
        announcer on 'You Bet Your Life.'  I believe that if I
        say the secret word, the duck will come down and give me
        a hundred dollars."

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Diff. Oil Change
Date: Thu, 8 Dec 1994 15:20:33 UNDEFINED

.  I'm gearing up to change the oil in the diffs, but have run into an
.obstacle.  Does anyone know where to get the mysterious 13 mm square drive
.wrench?  Whatever happened to the "stripped down with a screw driver and
.crescent wrench?" 

If it sticks out, use teh crescent wrench. If it sticks in, use teh 1/2inch 
drive handle from your socket set.

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: Harry's Plugged
Date: Thu, 8 Dec 1994 15:24:54 UNDEFINED

.        The possibility of getting water in the diffs from wading (not that
.I'm currently in any danger of this--being that I live in the desert) has
.cause me to think that I might be a good idea to replace the axle breather
.with a piece of tubing that goes up at least as high as the hardtop/load
.bead boundary.  That way the breather won't rust shut or let water in.

This is the way it is done on my 90. Doesnt jam like teh little ball valve 
axle thingies.

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: question for 90 owners
Date: Thu, 8 Dec 1994 15:32:06 UNDEFINED

        I still don't know why I can't take an 88" hard top, a hacksaw,
        some pop rivets, etc and put it on a 90.  (Ditching the roll
        bar of course).  yeah, yeah, I know, I'm a philistine...

I seem to remember from teh spec sheets when I bought mine, that teh 90 load 
bed is a couple of inches bigger  in both horizontal dimensions. Big gain!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Dec 1994 10:17:20 EST
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: Oil seals

WRT the thread on oil seals, the best one to use is the Federal Mogul/
National #410694.  It is *double lipped* and neither of these rides on the
same portion of the race/distance piece as the single lipped ones.
Furthermore, there is a red sealing compound already applied to the outer
diameter.  For some reason, these seals always seem to drive in true,
wheras some of the OEM seals have a nasty tendancy to start crooked despite
one's best efforts otherwise.

I checked the maintenance log...several of them are leak-free after almost
five years.

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: Discovery
Date: Thu, 8 Dec 1994 15:41:23 UNDEFINED

.        The report of spanish recycled steel being used in Discoveries
.is a bunch of crap! This Andy Woodward guy over in the UK loves to spread
.these rumours about supposedly inferior steel being used in Land Rover 
.products without a shread of credible evidence to back his claims. Just
..heresay from supposedly "reliable" sources, ie his local yocal mechanic
.who wouldn't know recycled Spanish steel from Spanish peanuts! Land Rover

Whatever they made teh panel that I saw out of wsnt very impressive........
In fact it was total crap! Ive never seen corrosion like it. And thi was not a 
vehicle that had ever been near a beach!

.does not now, nor have they ever used anything of the sort in their cars.
.Rest assured that a Discovery bought now will be around a LONG time to come.
.If this Knucklehead would confirm his info before spouting, we'd all be spared
.this nonsense.

You seen these panels, then, tosser?

Have a nice day.

------------------------------

Date: 08 Dec 94 10:13:03 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: defender 90 minutae

Dixon wanted to know:

>       Anyone on the list driven a 90 with & without the rollbar?  (ie
>       a US spec and everywhere else spec).  I just can't believe the
>       roll bar plays that big a roll <sic>.  In fact, if the roll bar

Here's another one for the "guess-what-happened-to-a-friend-of-a-
friend-of-mine" collection...
First of all, no-one over here (Europe) has a roll cage on his 90
(except for competition purposes), and it doesn't seem to be taking any
significant toll of the lives of Land Rover drivers to my knowledge.
I do know of one incident, however, which might give you an idea of
the 'chassis integrity' of the regular (british) aluminum 90 hardtop.
About a year ago we picked up a wrecked 90 from Austria to pull
out the engine + tranny. The PO told us about what had happened:
He had been to a midsummer night binge at some cabin up in the mountains,
and next morning, still pretty much drunk, he slowly made his way down
the winding mountain road when at some stage the call of nature forced
him to pull up and disappear behind some rocks...  Hardly had he 'settled'
when the quiet mountain morning air was split by a horrible crashing,
shattering noise. He looked back to the road, and his 90 was gone!
You guessed it, he had forgotten to apply the handbrake :-O  He stood
as he helplessly watched his Landy rolling and summersaulting down the
slope and into a ravine where it landed with a big *crash* in a brook -
on its wheels! It took almost a minute until the vehicle had reached the
bottom, and it overturned ump-teen times in the process. The car, when
we finally picked it up, was of course in a very sad state - a total loss,
the frame badly distorted - *but* : The hardtop, though bent and battered
and with a distinct 'slant' to one side, was still on and in one piece
and had not been crushed or ripped open. The car's interior was totally
undamaged, dash and seats were all reusable. I would *presume* that had
any person been sitting in there well strapped down with his seat belts,
he probably whould have walked (or wobbled, more likely) away, maybe
shocked and a bit bruised, but otherwise unhurt. IOW, even without the
famous 'american cage' the regular hardtop on its own gives a reasonable
amount of protection. Still, it's always advisable to apply the handbrakes.
Being sober also helps...

Presently sober,

Stefan
<100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Dec 1994 10:56:35 -0600
From: hgreensp@welchlink.welch.jhu.edu (Harry Greenspun)
Subject: Plug's out, now what?

  Okay, thanks to you guys (and my 1/2" socket wrench), I can drain my
diffs.  Now the hard part...

  What's the best stuff to replace it?  I'm looking for longevity and noise
suppression.

At my local auto supply store (Washington, D.C. area) I can choose the
following:

   90W - tried and true
   75W90 Synthetic - Mobil 1  ($7 /Qt. !!)
   85W140 - sounds intriguing
   or should I order something else?

Pros/cons appreciated.  

Ever thankful,
Harry

____________________________________________________________________
Harry Greenspun                                              
94 Discovery (5-spd)
(looking for a IIA/III)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Dec 1994 11:21:45 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Plug's out, now what?

On Thu, 8 Dec 1994, Harry Greenspun wrote:

>   What's the best stuff to replace it?  I'm looking for longevity and noise
> suppression.
none
	If the stuff gets wet inside there, or is leaking out you
	might as well drop 90wt in.  If you have a deep freeze in
	the winter (ie about -30 or worse) consider the synthetic
	stuff.  90wt turns to glue in the cold.

	Rgds,

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Roll Bars or Not
Date: Thu, 8 Dec 94 16:49:12 GMT

I was going to stay out of this.....but..
To add to Stefan's gory tale,there is the example of a Welsh
Water employee,who rolled a 110 arse over breackfast half a mile
down a Welsh hillside.Thats radiator over towbar.Finished up on
its wheels with a dented lid.The driver got out complaining of
a cricked neck,and walked away.As far as I know,Welsh Water dont
fit their vehicles with roll bars.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Story with a moral
Date: Thu, 8 Dec 94 16:58:08 GMT

Happened to you,too eh?I had a similar experience many years
ago,when a guys Riley RMF 1 1/2 litre wouldnt start after
work.We had five of us mucking around with the lovely old
beast for over a week.No luck.Finally some smart alec who
was fresh to the problem wandered up,got in,switched on,
switched off,got out,and said "Its out of petrol".
Sickening innit?
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Dec 1994 08:10:35 -0500
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: Russ's Stub Dribbles

Russ asks:

none
#2:
What is an acceptable half life of hub seals under normal operating
conditions?  I've new seals (and the "seal races") all around on
Nigel.  They're probably about a year old, maybe a year and a half,
maybe even a little older than that (but not much).  Nigel has
never seen mud to his knees OVLR style (not since these seals were
put in, anyway), and has maybe 6000 +/- 2500 miles of road and light
off road use on him since the new seals/races were put in.  The 
left rear is now leaking (as of about two weeks ago when the temps
dropped), but not enough (yet) to goop up the shoes.  Miraculously,
it is leaking out of the brake backing plate through the teensey
weensey crevases in between the backing plate and the lower pivot
"bolt" that the shoes ride on.  Any day now it'll hit the shoes,
I'm sure.  The other three show minimal signs (like there is some
discoloration at the bottom of the brake drums/backing plate
that indicate some light oil seepage) of leakage.  
none

Russ,

I could be wrong but from the way you describe the location of the leak on the 
backing plate, I would guess that the gasket between the axle casing and stub 
is leaking.  You might try tightening the backing plate securing bolts (if 
they aren't already) as a check/temp fix.  I had this trouble on my 109 at one 
point.  At first I thought it was hub seals.  Then as it got worse (the bolts 
loosened further), it began to leak between the backing plate and the swivel 
pin housing.  Very messy.  The brake backing plate is sandwiched between the 
swivel pin housing and the axle stub.  A new gasket on either side with a 
light film of Permatex Hi-Temp gasket sealer, and the leak was gone.

Oh, you asked about hub seal life.  Any grit/dirt that finds it's way onto the 
seal surface will degrade both the seal and the race.  I find I change seals 
(not all of them) every year.  And races if they are not perfect (and they 
usually aren't).

Bill

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: Oil seals
Date: Thu, 8 Dec 94 18:19:19 EST

> WRT the thread on oil seals, the best one to use is the Federal Mogul/
> National #410694.  It is *double lipped* and neither of these rides on the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> I checked the maintenance log...several of them are leak-free after almost
> five years.

and where might I find one of these, pray tell??  Special order from my
local specialty auto shop?

Jory asked where my seals came from....I got them from RN.  They are the
*second* set I put on Nigel.  The first time I neglected to replace the
races, which looked just fine and passed the fingernail test (ie no 
grooves) with flying colors.  They leaked almost immediately.  I ordered
new (too damned honest to request replacement under warranty) all around
and replaced the races as well.  They held up to now.

I *think* these new "genuine" seals are also
double lipped (like the above that Sandy mentioned), but yes, they are
not easy to drive in perfectly straight.  Do the Federal types have a
metallic backside (like the original, but unlike the genuine replacements)?

And Maloney suggests I gotta leak at my stub axle/backing plate/axle
housing junction....an outside possibility, but I think you'd be hard
pressed to tell by looking at where the leak is coming from (without
removing the hub, at least).  Both leaks would drain with gravity.  Only
the leak coming from the hub seal would wet the backing plate and stub 
axle up high right beside the seal race (and you just can't see that
area without removing the hub).  I'll give it a maybe, but......those 
bits are held in by bolts that have lock tabs on them so I don't expect
it has loosened up at all (gasket shot, maybe...).

thanks all,
rd/nigel

------------------------------

From: John Hong/C/HQ/3Com <John_Hong@3mail.3Com.COM>
Date:  8 Dec 94 17:49:30 EDT
Subject: OOOO YEAH - I'm just a GQ GUY!

Loidodice-san writes...

>An 88 with no roof...
>I took a real close look and this guy is tall.. and looks sorta oriental...
>OK John.. fess up.. Is that you?? 
>Cheers

How did you know I was tall???   If we've met before when?  I love to associate 
faces with names.
No, I have not done any modeling work.   I have been driving around in my 
roofless rover while wearing a bright elf hat though!

Problem du jour is zippo clutch pressure - if I bleed the thing, I'm fine again 
... until the next time a few weeks later - guess rebuild kits for slave and 
master cylinder are in/on order!

John

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Old Man Emu...
Date: Fri, 9 Dec 1994 13:54:09 +1030 (CST)

David Brown asks about Old Man Emu products.

As Far as i know OLD MAN EMU stuff is distributed exclusively by ARB.  They
certainly dont have much specific series rover stuff, maybe you are looking
for Disco and RR gear.  (OME shockers for 109 front = FJ40 LandCruiser with
bush kit, rear = Range rover + decrease bump stop travel.   Coil springs are
certainly available but I dont know how good they are, most people I know
used to get their coils from Rangie Spares (East coast Oz ??) who at one
stage listed 27 different coils for Rangies.

I'm sure Lloyd or Craig can provide the address from memory if not contact me
and I'll find it.
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Dec 1994 22:37:00 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Oil seals

On Thu, 8 Dec 1994, Russell G. Dushin wrote:

> and where might I find one of these, pray tell??  Special order from my
> local specialty auto shop?

	Your local National Bearing distributor.  Bob and I ordered up
	a dozen (cheaper that way) at about nine dollars each.  Just
	let the fingers do the walking and phoned them up.  Took about
	three days for them to arrive.

> Jory asked where my seals came from....I got them from RN.  They are the
> *second* set I put on Nigel.  

	LR doesn't make the seals, they just buy them from someone else
	(someone like National).  You might as well get them from the
	manufacturer.

> I *think* these new "genuine" seals are also double lipped 

	You can actually get triple lipped, but you don't want to use them.
	You need a wee bit of seepage on the outside lip to keep it lubricated
	and not self destructing through friction.  (yeah someone tried these
	once)

	Rgds,

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Fri, 09 Dec 1994 02:31:38 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Story with a moral

Perc sez...

> The story involves a SIII petrol that smoked a bit.  Well, when I say a
> bit
> I actually mean a bloody lot.  This thing would create a smoke screen at 
----snip----
> to the noise and then, using his penknife, he removed the cover from that
> flat 
> circular thing next to the carb (I still don't know what it's for, anyne
> help?) 

The Land Rover Secret Weapon... designed by the blokes at the Special
Projects and Funny Business Dept. This device was included on all late
SerIIa and after petrol vehicles for the express purpose of producing the
smokescreen effect you witnessed. It should be noted that Land Rovers
powered by the Heavy Oil engine did not need this device as they smoked well
enough of thier own accord. (Hey.. makes sense to me!)

Actually.. that is the British version of the PVC valve and if working
properly should suck up the oily crankcase vapors directly into the intake
manifold after which they will be drawn into the cylinders to be burnt,
producing.... SMOKE! HaHa!!  :)

> The moral of this story, dear readers, as realised by my darling brother
> is
> "Before screwing around, always check your Diaphram!"

Truer words have never been spoken!!

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern)       
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Fri, 09 Dec 1994 02:32:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Oil seals

Nigel leaks! (This is news??)

Russell is looking at seal replacement..
Sandy recomends... 
> > WRT the thread on oil seals, the best one to use is the Federal Mogul/
> > National #410694.  It is *double lipped* and neither of these rides on
none

And Russell scratches his head...  
> and where might I find one of these, pray tell??  Special order from my
> local specialty auto shop?

Russell...
Check the yellow pages for a bearing supply place in your area.. They
usually carry seals as well.. Federal Mogul/National shouldn't be too hard
to find.

*ALSO* ... when you need to replace things like wheel bearings, etc.. Try
the bearing supply place before ordering from RN.. A good place can match up
most of the roller bearings easily, and quite a bit less expensive than mail
order.. Hey.. I even found what I needed right here in Gloversville (which
is just down the road from East Podunk!!) 

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern)       
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 

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