Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions

msgSender linesSubject
1 "Barry Dudley" [DUDLEY@g41Report back on THUMP, THUMP
2 Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu62Re: Sound deadening
3 jpappa01@interserv.com 26defender 90 minutae
4 dkenner@emr.ca (Dixon Ke19Re: Report back on THUMP, THUMP
5 Mike Fredette [mfredett@27[not specified]
6 dkenner@emr.ca (Dixon Ke35Re: defender 90 minutae
7 Russell Burns [burns@cis28Re: defender 90 minutae
8 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em17Re: defender 90 minutae
9 Russell Burns [burns@cis14Re: defender 90 minutae
10 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV 20"Old man EMU" Need address.
11 "Mugele, Gerry" [Gerry.M24He's right
12 "BENJAMIN G. NEWMAN" [718Conversion Fire truck 10911a
13 "Neil E. Villacorta" [FM12 Discovery
14 "Mugele, Gerry" [Gerry.M26Thor Hubs
15 Mike Fredette [mfredett@21[not specified]
16 John Hong/C/HQ/3Com [Joh44re:sound deadening and other stuff
17 Craig Murray [craigp@ocs32Re Sound deadening
18 Luis Maldonado [lmm@apol21[not specified]
19 "Russell G. Dushin" [dus31Hess update
20 "Russell G. Dushin" [dus372 quickies
21 jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)18Re: 2 quickies
22 "FS Jan Beckwith" [BECKJ91 INTERNET MAIL "VIRUS" A HOAX - OFFICIAL WORD
23 sohearn@interserv.com 14U.S. spec Defender 90 Roll Cage
24 jpappa01@interserv.com 30Re: defender 90 minutae
25 WB6AGE@aol.com 18Survey Results
26 David John Place [umplac7Re: 2 quickies
27 LANDROVER@delphi.com 30Re: re:sound deadening and other stuff
28 Roger Sinasohn [sinasohn15Re: Lug wrench


------------------------------ [ Message 1 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "Barry Dudley" <DUDLEY@gate2.cc.unp.ac.za>
Date: Wed, 7 Dec 1994 11:22:56 +200
Subject: Report back on THUMP, THUMP

Hi All,

Thanx for all the info, hints and advice.  This is a great LIST
to belong to!          A brief report back.

A while ago i asked about regular thumping from inside the engine

of the piston tops appeared to be scratched/gouged (only after i
removed the carbon) while the rest were fine.  I put the cylinder
heads back in my engine during the weekend and went for a drive
last night.  After an initial high temperature scare and loss of
oil pressure all was fine.  No knocking or thumping.
After two/three weeks without a Land Rover it was wonderful to
have the noise, the heat and vibration back!

What have i learnt:
1 - Do not allow anything to drop down the Carb!  Put a rag in
there to prevent that.
2 - If you suspect something has dropped down into the engine do
not "hope" it will disappear.  Open up the engine and sort out
the problem ASAP.  There are no short cuts!
3 - Get a couple of opinions and take your time over the job.  A
rushed job generally turns out bad and has to be redone.
4 - Having taken apart and put an engine back together I feel
more confident about fixing it if (when) something goes wrong.
5 - No more touching of the engine again (well at least for a
long time).

It is great to have JOY back!

Cheers

Barry Dudley                S111, LWB, 1983, Station Wagon
Pietermartizburg            Ford 3L, V6 
South Africa

------------------------------
[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Sound deadening
Date: Wed, 7 Dec 94 12:34:18 GMT

Craig,
One may generally tell fellow members of the Oily Wad Club by
their ability to lipread,which gives you *some* idea of the
whispering silence of the 2.25 diesel.The necessity of 
lipreading also tends to develop members' periperal vision
to a remarkable degree,enabling some amongst our number to
drive,talk,*and* spot a good pair of legs at half a mile.All
at the same time.Since they dont *go* very fast,OWC members
vehicles are ideal for leg-spotting(or whatever catches ones
fancy),but a little less than ideal for any subsequent moves,
since doesnt have to be *very* fit to outdistance an OWC
Rover.A brisk walk is all that is necessary.Whilst vastly
entertaining when viewed from the rear,it doesnt do an awful
lot to cement(or even begin)relationships,and if the object of
desire happens to be *downwind* of the vehicle,even a good view
is impeded by the vast quantities of smoke emitted.
On the plus side,however,should the target be *in front* of the
OWC member,he can,by the simple expedient of lifting his right
foot from the accelerator pedal,use the colossal power of his
engine braking to draw gracefully to a standstill in order to
effect an introduction.This effects a considerable saving on
trifles such as tyres and brake linings(a saving that our
petrol brethren will not be able to make due to their greater
velocity),enabling members to have that little extra disposable
income with which to get the relationship off to a solid start.
The necessity to teach lipreading also has entertaining
possibilities which should be considered,perhaps at length.
For those members in the married state,the lipreading is
generally not admitted to,and OWC vehicles are found ideal to
cover the incessant prattle of the lady wife(and possibly,on
a bad day,her mother as well,)relieving the fortunate member
of any possibility of hearing what is said to him.
It is,for the reasons given,generally considered imprudent
for the OWC member to soundproof his vehicle *at all*.
As to the amount of noise emitted at 50MPH,the technology
does not yet exist to do any research on this(although
Virtual Reality looks promising)since it has been,so far,
impossible for any club member to attain this velocity for
long enough to assess the effect,*and* retain his sanity.
Since this latter is something which OWC members have a
tenuous hold on at the best of times,prudence dictates
(along with Mary,Marigold et al)that *much* thought be given
before any attempt is made in this direction.
You are to be congratulated in having not only a Heavy Oil
Engine,but also a noisy transmission *and* knobbly tyres.
I feel that the only improvement you could possibly make to
your vehicle would be a teasponnful or so of Vim or some other
proprietary cleaning compound,added to the differential oil.
This woudl ensure that the back axle would,after a short time,
add *its* voice to the proceedings,virtually guaranteeing your
success in any endeavour you may feel inclined to undertake.
It would also drown out yapping dogs in the back.
I remain,sir,your Obedient Servant,
Cheers
Mike Rooth
(Founder Member,OWC)

------------------------------
[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Date: Wed, 7 Dec 1994 06:00:32 -0800
Subject: defender 90 minutae

been reading all of the hardtop feedback. There seems to be a bunch advocating 
removal of the roll cage. DON'T remove this! Its a warranty wrecker. Its also 
dumb. Why? `Cause it destroys the chassis integrity that was added in. If 
you've not driven a US spec 90 then try it. The structural integrity is 
amazing. Drive it over a series of potholes and it leterally sucks `em up! I 
would never remove them if I owned one. The hardtop is a great looking piece 
(please don't accuse me of being a salesman) w/the original look preserved 
w/alpine windows, small quarter lights and lift up upper lid... The nicest 
part is that the new top fits over the roll cage without removing it! To me, 
this is the best of possible worlds. I love the hardtop look, but would feel 
that something was missing if I had to give up the cage to get it. Now, you 
can have both. Getting a standard 90 metal hardtop over from UK isn't exactly 
cheap, either when you factor in shipping, duty, etc. Don't forget the 
difference between series landies windscreen headers. The opening is totally 
different. But, that's why we love landies - they're all unique and all 
desirable.

cheers.
Jimbo
jpappa01@interserv.com

------------------------------
[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: dkenner@emr.ca (Dixon Kenner)
Subject: Re: Report back on THUMP, THUMP
Date: Wed, 7 Dec 1994 10:30:52 -0500 (EST)

> 1 - Do not allow anything to drop down the Carb!  Put a rag in
> there to prevent that.
> 2 - If you suspect something has dropped down into the engine do
> not "hope" it will disappear.  Open up the engine and sort out
> the problem ASAP.  There are no short cuts!

	An old owners manual for a British motorcycle (pre-war)
	suggested dropping a wee ball bearing into each cylinder.
	Helps keeping the coaking problems to a minimum.  (granted
	the had cast iron pistons...Hmmmm... make be a copper BB
	would work... :-))

	Sorry...  <grin>

------------------------------
[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Subject: D90 Hardtops,here at last
Date: Wed, 07 Dec 1994 07:35:03 -0800
From: Mike Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

Hooray,
	Well, it's finally here. I was told that the hardtops had been
sent from the parts warehouse on Tuesday last, so I casually called the
local dealer to see and lo and behold the truck had dropped off two of
em mere minutes ago. I left work immediately and went to claim my prize
before some other clown tried to. Upon arrival, there was a little bobble
while they made sure I was on the top of their little waiting list, but I
finally got it loaded on to the top of my wife's Range Rover and drove home.
A HUGE box to be sure, I spent the rest of the afternoon opening it up and
gloating. It looks really nice, a dark grey textured outer surface, a light
grey inner. The upper tail gate lid is different in that it is held closed
by the lower one. ie. you can't open the top without opening the bottom, though
on reflection, this would be impossible with the spare tire in the way anyway
so no loss. The top is made to fit the 95 models and a kit is being made to retro
fit it to the 94's. The kit consists of nothing more than a bunch of rivnuts that
need to be installed in the body capping of the rear bed, 14 in all. I guess 
the 95's will come with them pre-installed. This little "installation kit" 
naturally won't be available till late NEXT week, so a quick call to Rovers 
North took care of that. The top really was worth the wait, I just wish the
wait hadn't been so damn long. Be glad to answer any questions,
						Rgds
						Mike Fredette
						Portland, Oregon

------------------------------
[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: dkenner@emr.ca (Dixon Kenner)
Subject: Re: defender 90 minutae
Date: Wed, 7 Dec 1994 10:41:15 -0500 (EST)

> been reading all of the hardtop feedback. There seems to be a bunch advocating 
> removal of the roll cage. DON'T remove this! Its a warranty wrecker. Its also 
> dumb. Why? `Cause it destroys the chassis integrity that was added in. 

	What chassis integrity?  While I am still not clear whether the
	roll bar extends down to the frame, or just mounts on top
	of the aluminium & painted steel box, either way, the added
	integrity will be minimal.  If anything you wouldn't do it
	because of the warranty & even there I'd like to see the fine
	print.  If I had a 90, the roll bar would be the first thing
	to come off.  IMHO it looks tacky & is unnecessary.

> you've not driven a US spec 90 then try it. The structural integrity is 
> amazing. Drive it over a series of potholes and it leterally sucks `em up! I 
> would never remove them if I owned one. 

	From driving around leaf sprung Land Rovers for years and suddenly
	driving a 90, those coils will certainly suck up the potholes.
	Anyone on the list driven a 90 with & without the rollbar?  (ie
	a US spec and everywhere else spec).  I just can't believe the
	roll bar plays that big a roll <sic>.  In fact, if the roll bar
	adds that much structural integrity, it is akin to adding plating
	to the frame frome the back forward to about the middle.  Looking
	at Land Rovers that have been plated and thus have rather 
	increased structural integrity, the reduction in frame flex will 
	cause more problem in the future through increased stress ad the
	mounting points.  (cracking etc.)

	Rgds,

------------------------------
[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: defender 90 minutae
Date: Wed, 7 Dec 94 8:48:32 PST

> 	What chassis integrity?  While I am still not clear whether the
> 	roll bar extends down to the frame, or just mounts on top
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> 	print.  If I had a 90, the roll bar would be the first thing
> 	to come off.  IMHO it looks tacky & is unnecessary.
I spent some time undet my D-90 checking out the roll cage.
it is connected as follow's
The front hoop is tied to the front bulkhead under the front fender.

The middle hoop actually continues  continues under the floor of the
body and forms a square loop. with the bottom being tied to the upper
part of the frame with brackets. The diagional braces inside the truck
are bolted to the floor of the body.

The rear hoop is bolted to the rear cross member.
 
The Front, and Rear hoops are tied together at the top, and the bottem, with
a bar running just over the rear wheel box.

>From what I have seen I would rather roll down a hill in a D-90 with a full cage, rather than a removable aluminium top.

Russ

------------------------------
[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Wed, 7 Dec 1994 12:24:09 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: defender 90 minutae

> I spent some time undet my D-90 checking out the roll cage.
> it is connected as follow's

	Interesting, thanks.  Is the rear bits optional, or does this
	whole thing come with the vehicle?

> >From what I have seen I would rather roll down a hill in a D-90 with a 
> >full cage, rather than a removable aluminium top. 

	Ahhh, but the idea is not to roll down... :-)

	Rgds,

------------------------------
[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: defender 90 minutae
Date: Wed, 7 Dec 94 9:29:31 PST

I believe the rear part is an option. I hope it remains with the hardtop.

Russ
> > I spent some time undet my D-90 checking out the roll cage.
> > it is connected as follow's
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
> 	Ahhh, but the idea is not to roll down... :-)
> 	Rgds,

------------------------------
[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Wed, 07 Dec 94 11:14:51 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: "Old man EMU" Need address.

FROM:  David Brown                          Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: "Old man EMU" Need address.
Could someone please give me the address for "Old man Emu" in Australia?
I hear that they have a lot of offroad specialty parts for Land Rovers.

Thanks,

P.S. Notice the larger "tyres" on the signiture. Thanks to ?? for the tip.

#=====#                  Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|___|__\___              can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _ |   |_ |             thing that ever has.
"(_)""""(_)"                                            -Margaret Mead

------------------------------
[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "Mugele, Gerry" <Gerry.Mugele@wellsfargo.com>
Subject: He's right
Date: Wed, 07 Dec 94 10:39:00 PST

Michael Loiodice       wrote:

> I think that the 15/16" nuts were on
>the earlier vehicles and the 1 1/16 on the Ser III.. I'm probably wrong..
>I've used a 1/2" drive breaker bar with 1 1/16" nut for years for my 
SerIII.

That is exactly my experience.  My 67 IIa and my 69 IIa both had the 11/16" 
nuts.  It was a surprise to me when I tried my old wrench on my 72 Series 
III.  It has 1 1/16" nuts.  I too use a socket with a 20" breaker bar.  My 
original equipment lug wrenches (all of 'em) chose to bend (rather then 
break) when I really needed 'em.  The socket and breaker bar stow easily, 
have all the strength needed and from a price over time perspective and very 
economical, especially because both can be used in other applications.  And 
if you get Craftsman and you do somehow manage to bend or break it; Sears 
will give you a new one free.

Gerry Mugele

------------------------------
[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: 07 Dec 94 13:59:25 EST
From: "BENJAMIN G. NEWMAN" <71773.3457@compuserve.com>
Subject: Conversion Fire truck 10911a

I would love more info about this truck and where could I see it.
Benjamin G.Newman
Orlando Fl.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date:     Wed, 07 Dec 94 11:42:43 PST
From: "Neil E. Villacorta" <FM00VILL@UCSBVM.UCSB.EDU>
Subject:  Discovery

Is there a Discovery listserv and/or ftp/www/html site?  I'm interested
in puchasing one and with the comments on the recycled Spanish steel used
I really don't know what to think now.

:-) Neil Villacorta
Network Manager & H.R. Technology Analyst
U.C. Santa Barbara / Facilities Management

------------------------------
[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "Mugele, Gerry" <Gerry.Mugele@wellsfargo.com>
Subject: Thor Hubs
Date: Wed, 07 Dec 94 12:05:00 PST

Hi Granville,

re <<THOR Automotive Products, Colorado Springs, Colorado>>   What a lucky 
guy you are.
I had those on my '67...the one that Scotty bought and converted to a tow 
truck.  The truck was
bought new in Colorado Springs and equipped with those hubs at the dealer 
according to the original owner.  They gave me nothing but grief and I 
suggest you replace them as soon as you have made the thing driveable, with 
a nice set of Warn FWHs.

If I recall correctly there is a lever/bar (or a pair of 'em, can't remember 
for sure) embedded in the face of the hub.  To operate it you must pry the 
lever(s) out and flip it (them) back (180 degrees)  and then turn the lever, 
with its attachment point as the axis, until the lever(s) can be returned to 
the hub face.  This action engages and disengages the hubs.  The levers are 
made from a rather brittle aluminum and if forced it chooses to break rather 
than bend....see the story coming here?  Get rid of 'em!

Gerry

------------------------------
[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Subject: Re: Discovery 
Date: Wed, 07 Dec 1994 12:38:02 -0800
From: Mike Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

Neil,
	The report of spanish recycled steel being used in Discoveries
is a bunch of crap! This Andy Woodward guy over in the UK loves to spread
these rumours about supposedly inferior steel being used in Land Rover 
products without a shread of credible evidence to back his claims. Just
heresay from supposedly "reliable" sources, ie his local yocal mechanic
who wouldn't know recycled Spanish steel from Spanish peanuts! Land Rover
does not now, nor have they ever used anything of the sort in their cars.
Rest assured that a Discovery bought now will be around a LONG time to come.
If this Knucklehead would confirm his info before spouting, we'd all be spared
this nonsense.
							Rgds 
							Mike Fredette
							Portland, Oregon

P.S. I used to live in Goleta, worked at Delco there, loved it just too 
expensive to afford a home.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: John Hong/C/HQ/3Com <John_Hong@3mail.3Com.COM>
Date:  7 Dec 94 12:13:44 EDT
Subject: re:sound deadening and other stuff

Hi All,

First post in a while for me.  California is nice - still no roof on the 88 - 
getting lots of stares - I will admit to the mornings being a bit brisk.    The 
first car I ever bought, a Mazda B2000 pickup, died on my attempt to drive it 
to CA from Mass - valves go snap crakle pop and not worth the expense and 
trouble to fix - sigh!  The plus side of this is I can get a 2nd ROVER!   
Anybody know of any 109s on the west US coast for sale?

I called the IBEX folks but it will be at least 5 months till the first new 
style kit is available - old style kits are no longer available.   They are 
available in 90, 100 and 110 WBs and are intended for coil sprung suspension.   
Fitting a TDi is no problem.  (TDi! TDi!! TDi!!!)

Re: sound damping - the loading dock mat sounds like the best idea yet.   I 
currently use  rubber door mats (yes they say WELCOME on one side)   I got 
fairly large ones from Kmart for about $6 each - 1 in each foot well and 2 
cover the back of my 88 just right.   I also lay them on the ground (when it is 
particularly dusty/muddy/cold) when I get underneath the "one I love" .

Re: the 1 1/16 lug wrenches   Call Northern Hydraulic for their catalog (800 
533 5545 or 612 894 8310) - great stuff at good prices - I bought a "lug" bar   
1 1/16 one end - I forget what was on the other end - large hex openings at 
each end for you to slip in a lever/handle.   The thing is really beefy (kinda 
heavy) - the lever would probably bend first.

NH also has winches, cable  (1/4 aircraft 7000 lb rating ??? -  3/8ths also) 
portable generators, 2 inch pipe bending sets for $200 - make your own roll 
bar!, and a host of other neat and useful stuff, tools, fittings - I would call 
it an Agricultural Catalog going mainstream.

I wear ear plugs on long trips when the roof is off - the wind noise gets to me 
after a while - the Rover "whines" a fair amount - it seems to drive some of my 
passengers nuts! but it is music to my ears.

Chow!

John

------------------------------
[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re Sound deadening
Date: Thu, 8 Dec 94 9:17:42 EDT

Michael Loiodice wrote

> Ben... Craig needs some industrial strength sound proofing material... He
> says he can't hear his DIESEL over the sound the tranny makes... Yow!! That
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> If you go the "old carpet" route.. find some nice thick pile stuff.. :)
> I don't know about putting it under the hump/floor/seatbox.. That's in the
> "automatic oiler" zone down there..

You can hear the motor when driving, but I think the sound is coming from 
the exhaust, as it exits between the fuel tank and the rear wheel on the 
drivers side, so it is just behind me.  The reason that I want to put it 
under the transmission tunnel, is so that it looks like I don't have any, 
and  I have been told that carpet rots after a while, and it will if a go 
through a bog at foster, the locals call the "glue pot", again, the mud 
came half way up my head lights, and stank of decay, thinkest mud I have 
ever seen, the locals reakon that you can get through it with road tyres 
on!  But would the carpet being the automatic oiler zone, stop the carpet 
rotting? 

--
==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                            1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                              2.25 diesel 
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia                    I slow for hills!
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                         but not of my own will

------------------------------
[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Subject: Acceptable amount of rust on Range Rover?
Date: Wed, 07 Dec 94 18:01:53 -0500
From: Luis Maldonado <lmm@apollo.hp.com>

Hi all,

I just joined the group as a potential Range Rover 
owner.  I understand that one of the basic things to 
check for is rust on the frame.  I've noticed, however,
several models which have no rust on the fram per se,
but on the rear steel brace which ends in the tow hitch
(is this the rear outrigger?).  Is this piece known 
to rust, and if so, is there an acceptable amount of rust
which should not deter me from purchasing the vehicle?

For the record, I'm looking at '87-'89 Range Rovers with
(unfortunately) a good number of miles (80K or above).
Any other suggestions on this to look for would be
appreciated.  My apologies if this a well-trodden subject.

-Luis

------------------------------
[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Hess update
Date: Wed, 7 Dec 94 18:43:32 EST

For those of you following the Hess family......

So far so good.  They've made it down to Texas and are currently
trekking across that vast open state.  John called from a 
Mcdubious in Waco (where I'm sure he sampled the fries) and
mentioned that he lost his gascap somewhere along the way.
He presumed he'd left it at the petrol station, but two
calls to that station failed to locate it.  Most likely
(as this is his first rover) he forgot to triple check that
it was secure upon fillup, and it managed to grow wings
and find its way to the roadside.  I'm not so sure whether
or not he's got the screened tube as well, but if he does
he'd be right smart to fasten his new one (shipped to a 
bro-in-laws place in Austin) to it so next time it just
bangs against the side of his rig like mine always does.....

A second message (left today, I think, or maybe last night)
mentioned that they'd made it beyond Austin and all was 
well with the rover. He does have *one* oil leak, but it
is apparently minor and methinks he's learning to live with
it.

more as it comes in.....

rd/nigel for J. Hess and the nameless (?) Hessmobile

------------------------------
[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: 2 quickies
Date: Wed, 7 Dec 94 19:01:03 EST

Kind souls-

I've two questions, one is a repeat (sorry for the wasted bandwidth).

#1:
Dave VE4PN:  Was your reccomended main jet size for the rochester
on a 2.25 a #48??  I think that was what you once said and I'm in
the process (once again) of trying to track one down, but need to 
make sure first.  

#2:
What is an acceptable half life of hub seals under normal operating
conditions?  I've new seals (and the "seal races") all around on
Nigel.  They're probably about a year old, maybe a year and a half,
maybe even a little older than that (but not much).  Nigel has
never seen mud to his knees OVLR style (not since these seals were
put in, anyway), and has maybe 6000 +/- 2500 miles of road and light
off road use on him since the new seals/races were put in.  The 
left rear is now leaking (as of about two weeks ago when the temps
dropped), but not enough (yet) to goop up the shoes.  Miraculously,
it is leaking out of the brake backing plate through the teensey
weensey crevases in between the backing plate and the lower pivot
"bolt" that the shoes ride on.  Any day now it'll hit the shoes,
I'm sure.  The other three show minimal signs (like there is some
discoloration at the bottom of the brake drums/backing plate
that indicate some light oil seepage) of leakage.  

and yes, my axle breathers are clear.

thanks in advance,
rd/nigel (NYS inspection is due this month, naturally)

------------------------------
[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Tue, 6 Dec 1994 16:21:07 -0800
From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell)
Subject: Re: 2 quickies

>#2:
>What is an acceptable half life of hub seals under normal operating
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
>that indicate some light oil seepage) of leakage.
>and yes, my axle breathers are clear.

Where did you get your hub seals? Maybe 1-1.5 years ago, I replaced my rear
hub seals with ones from RN. After a few months, one of them was leaking,
and was replaced under warranty. I think the other one is now leaking as
well. I am going to be doing some work on it soon, and will check it out...

jory bell
jory@mit.edu

------------------------------
[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "FS Jan Beckwith" <BECKJAN@fs.isu.edu>
Date:          Wed, 7 Dec 1994 18:33:32 MDT
Subject:        INTERNET MAIL "VIRUS" A HOAX - OFFICIAL WORD

I am really sorry to see a problem with subjects like this.  I for 
one do not know enough to understand the hidden workings and inner 
mechanisms of my computer OR the internet.  But when something like 
this happens I learn a lot-one way or another.  So here is something 
for the poor people like me who are now afraid to ask more about it 
for fear of getting flamed.  Be patient guys, we can't all be experts!

Thanks....Jan B. 
 
------- Forwarded Message Follows -------
Hi kids:

I know that I have been stuffing your mailbox with a whole bunch of mail
recently, but I thought that the following may be of some interest to you
-- I know it gave me a good laugh :)

It seems that the latest Urban Legend floating around the Internet is that
there is a virus called "Good Times" that is transmitted via e-mail and eats
hard drives. <<laugh>>

Anyway, here is the *TRUTH* about the Good Times virus in case one of your
friends tries to spam you with warnings about it:

------------------- A - T - T - E - N - T - I - O - N -------------------

THE "Good Times" VIRUS IS AN URBAN LEGEND

In the early part of December, CIAC started to receive information requests
about a supposed "virus" which could be contracted via America OnLine, simply
by reading a message.  The following is the message that CIAC received:

 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Here is some important information. Beware of a file called Goodtimes.    |
|  Happy Chanukah everyone, and be careful out there. There is a virus on   |
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
| Times", DON'T read it or download it.  It is a virus that will erase your |
| hard drive.  Forward this to all your friends.  It may help them a lot.   |
 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

THIS IS A HOAX.  Upon investigation, CIAC has determined that this message
originated from both a user of America Online and a student at a university
at approximately the same time, and it was meant to be a hoax.

CIAC has also seen other variations of this hoax, the main one is that any
electronic mail message with the subject line of "xxx-1" will infect your
computer.

This rumor has been spreading very widely.  This spread is due mainly to the
fact that many people have seen a message with "Good Times" in the header.

They delete the message without reading it, thus believing that they have
saved themselves from being attacked. These first-hand reports give a false
sense of credibility to the alert message.

There has been one confirmation of a person who received a message with
"xxx-1" in the header, but an empty message body.  Then, (in a panic, because
he had heard the alert), he checked his PC for viruses (the first time he
checked his machine in months) and found a pre-existing virus on his machine.
 He incorrectly came to the conclusion that the E-mail message gave him the
virus (this particular virus could NOT POSSIBLY have spread via an E-mail
message).  This person then spread his alert.

As of this date, there are no known viruses which can infect merely through
reading a mail message.  For a virus to spread some program must be executed.
Reading a mail message does not execute the mail message.  Yes, Trojans have
been found as executable attachments to mail messages, the most notorious
being the IBM VM Christmas Card Trojan of 1987, also the TERM MODULE Worm
(reference CIAC Bulletin B-7) and the GAME2 MODULE Worm (CIAC Bulletin B-12).
 But this is not the case for this particular "virus" alert.

If you encounter this message being distributed on any mailing lists, simply
ignore it or send a follow-up message stating that this is a false rumor.

Karyn Pichnarczyk
CIAC Team
ciac@llnl.gov

***********                         ************
Jan Beckwith, Pharm.D.              beckjan@isu.edu
Idaho Drug Information Service      Phone: (208) 236-4689
Campus Box 8092                          or:(208) 236-3785            
Pocatello, ID 83209                 FAX:   (208) 236-4687
************                        ************

                           

------------------------------
[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: sohearn@interserv.com
Date: Wed, 7 Dec 1994 18:04:16 -0800
Subject: U.S. spec Defender 90 Roll Cage

As mentioned by Russ the U.S. 90's have a cage tied into the frame front,
center, and rear. In addition there is additional cross bracing at the front
under the windshield and at the center behind the seats. It's only potential
drawback is that it is bolted together instead of welded, something which
could probably be done down the road with no difficulty.

Stephen O'Hearn
'94 Defender 90

------------------------------
[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Date: Wed, 7 Dec 1994 18:48:59 -0800
Subject: Re: defender 90 minutae

Dixon:

Good to hear from you. I sent you the latest BSROA newsletter a couple of days 
ago. Hope you got/get it. 

I'm not trying to stir the soup on the defender 90 roll cage! Yes the front 
and middle hoops DO tie directly to the chassis rails, and additionally, if 
the rear extension is fitted, then the rear hoop does as well. I stand 
corrected in that I should have referred to the car as a NA-spec 90 rather 
than just US-spec. Clearly the chassis integrity is very good on series 
landies due to the reinforced alum/steel perimeter gutter aluminum hardtop. 
however, removal of same does (at least in my experience) introduce additional 
"cowl flex" for lack of a better term. The NA def 90, which until now has only 
been a soft top, absolutely benefits from the cage in terms of tie-in strength 
and its "box" effect. The earlier `94 builds even had the rear bed internal 
bars tying in the box at just above chassis level. This was omitted during the 
model year as it was total overkill. The cage will continue to benefit the 
structure even with the grp top installed as the new hardtop is not as strong 
as the original type aluminum top. This is quite obvious since the limited 
series of 40 aluminum NA def 90s which are being shipped now have the majority 
of the front cage removed to fit the top. As before, the aluminum top is 
basically strong enough to enable the vehicle to pass the crash tests!

Look forward to receiving your newsletter. 

------------------------------
[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: WB6AGE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 Dec 1994 22:47:09 -0500
Subject: Survey Results

As reported in the Wednesday, December 7th issue of USA Today, Men's Journal
asked the following question of it's readers;

"If given the choice of dining with Cindy Crawford or the supermodel of their
choice or a Land Rover four wheel drive, which would you want?"

Results.......86% chose the Land Rover

It's nice to be in the mainstream in at least one area

Bob Cosentino  WB6AGE@AOL.COM
1960 SII 88 Perkins conversion

------------------------------
[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Wed, 7 Dec 1994 22:00:47 -0600 (CST)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: 2 quickies

Yes, the jet is the #48.  If you can't find one, use solder to plug the 
hole and use a #48 pin drill.  Not as good but acceptable.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------
[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Thu, 08 Dec 1994 00:04:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: re:sound deadening and other stuff

John Hong sez...

> First post in a while for me.  California is nice - still no roof on the
> 88 - > 
> getting lots of stares - I will admit to the mornings being a bit brisk.

Hmmm... no roof on his 88.....

OK.. so I was looking through this PC magazine and there is a MobiLink ad..
The one with the guy talking on a cell phone while standing up in and 88,
and the 88 is out in a swamp somewhere, not quite hub deep in the water.. 

An 88 with no roof...

I took a real close look and this guy is tall.. and looks sorta oriental...
OK John.. fess up.. Is that you?? 

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern)       
              7          1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol
           #:-}>         1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol

------------------------------
[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Wed, 7 Dec 1994 21:52:46 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Lug wrench

I got my + shaped lug wrench at Grand Auto and one of the ends seems to fit 
just fine.  Note that it's the larger one for trucks, not the smaller, car 
one.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                               

------------------------------
[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 

World Wide Web Sites:
        http://whitman.gar.utexas.edu/roverweb/roverweb.html
        http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/

If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@chunnel.uk.stratus.com
-B
[ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 941208 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]


Back Forward

Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.