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1 "Stefan R. Jacob" [1000414Re: list complaints
2 Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu14Series One Heaters
3 "Mr T.stevenson" [gbfv0824Broken swivel housing plug
4 lloyd@indy14.cs.monash.e42[not specified]
5 Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu56Smoky No More?
6 Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu15Crumple Zones
7 Steve Temple [temples@cs11Land Rover Mailing List
8 dkenner@emr.ca (Dixon Ke16Re: Broken swivel ball drain plug
9 dkenner@emr.ca (Dixon Ke16Re: Broken swivel ball drain plug
10 Steve Methley [sgm@hplb.35rambling incitement to festiv debate...
11 Steve Methley [sgm@hplb.35rambling incitement to festiv debate...
12 dkenner@emr.ca (Dixon Ke16Re: Broken swivel ball drain plug
13 venters@atm.ox.ac.uk (Pe19Series 1 heaters
14 Marc Kruithof [mkruitho@22busted bolts & such
15 ElanII@aol.com 9Land Rover
16 enders@ix.netcom.com (Bi8Subscribe
17 S|ren Vels Christensen [43PTFE Report
18 mtalbot@interserv.com 18Land Rover Flywheel
19 mtalbot@interserv.com 14[not specified]
20 RRover2486@aol.com 19ROVER WANTED
21 Roger Sinasohn [sinasohn22Re: all's well that end's well


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Date: 25 Nov 94 04:07:49 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: list complaints

 > I always wave to Series Land Rovers, but they hardly ever wave back either.
 >
 > John Brabyn

Sounds familiar... I always wave to women, and they hardly ever wave back.
And I once drove into a BMW, and he didn't wave either...
Strange folks, these...

Stefan

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From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Series One Heaters
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 94 9:19:31 GMT

Rodney wanted to know about S1 heaters......
Hold your breath,and *sit down*.OK?
John Craddock lists the item;
Heater Kit 1954-65   242.34 inc vat.
Non EEC countries deduct 14.9% off price.
Better now?:-)
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: "Mr T.stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Broken swivel housing plug
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 1994 10:23:55 +0000 (GMT)

Dear Keith
	I don't think that I have worked on an old (mature?) LR yet
where the swivel housing drains came out easily. The last time I snapped
one off, I drilled a small pilot hole through the threaded part which
was stuck in the housing, followed by progressively larger drills until
I had removed most of the shank of the plug. The threads then collapsed
and could be pulled out in a sort of swarf spiral without any of the
pieces getting into the housing. I then ran a tap (sorry, can't remember
the size) through the hole to clean it up. If you grease the tap's
channels then it should catch any bits of swarf. 
However, this was with the housing removed from the vehicle. It may be
more difficult to do it in situ, lying on your back in a puddle of oil.
Good luck!
regards
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(0475) 530581  Fax:(0475) 530601

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Date: Fri, 25 Nov 94 22:52:13 +1100
From: lloyd@indy14.cs.monash.edu.au (Lloyd Allison)

 -- Miscellany --

Glossary: if someone builds one, I'm sure Greg Hiner and/or I will
  store it for the www (even "HTML" it) if the creator(s) can't.

Camel tropy:
  Does anyone know any details of the Camel trophy?
  I gather that LROA(NA) organise the USA team selection but that is the
  extent of my knowledge.
  (btw. Apparently all nations are being encouraged to get women to apply.)

Have you noticed that the new RR has semi-floating hubs and
the rear axle has a Panhard rod and fibreglass (!) radius arms -
no A-frame.

On engine conversions and diff ratios:
  Rover car diff's are compatible with the non Salisbury axles
  and come in a variety of ratios inc'  4.3:1, 4.1:1 (I think)
  which make good swaps for 4.7:1.
  The Stage 1, and RR use 3.54:1 but have a lower hi-ratio
  than S1-S3.

The broken drain plug: ouch
  a tool for removing stuck things is an `eazy-out' (sp?)
  drill a hole, insert eazy-out, apply spanner, ...
  but I don't fancy your chances of getting it out eazily -
  imagine what force must have been used to shear one of those plugs off!

How many ftp or www Land-Rover sites are there in the UK?

1998: Is anyone gearing up for the LR 50th anniversary in 1998?
      (Michael Bishop of LROC(Vic) has started planning here.)

Lloyd ALLISON
Dept. of Computer Science, Monash University, Clayton, Victoria 3168, AUSTRALIA
tel: 61 3 905 5205       fax: 61 3 905 5146       email: lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au
<A HREF="http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd">LA home</A>
<A HREF="http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover">Land-Rover</A>

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From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Smoky No More?
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 94 11:40:29 GMT

This is for those who,like myself,are (under)powered by the
venerable 2.25 Rover Heavy Fuel Oil Engine.And who,again like
myself,are just a little tired of "fog generating".
I hasten to add,I *havent* gone all politically correct
(shut up Maloney),but it *does* grieve me a little to pay for
fuel that just gets pumped out of the exhaust without doing
any work.
I had occasion to call the farrier to trim the mare's feet last
week(he drives one of those *other* things,also a diesel),and he
thoughtfully contemplated the puther from my exhaust,before remarking
that his father's Land Rover used to do that,but had been cured.
Now,his dad's Land Rover is a '69 11A Diesel,that has been rebuilt
onto an Arrow Services coil sprung chassis.The engine was overhauled
at the same time,but smoked like hell.One of the farrier's mates saw
the display,and said "Why dont you retard the distributor pump by a
sixteenth of an inch at the mounting flange marker.It will stop all
that *and* cut your oil consumption".The bloke even offered to do it
for him.However,he wasnt bothered,and it was left to the farrier's
younger brother to sneak his dad's Rover away and do it.No smoke,no
oil consumption,increased power,better fuel consumption.
All I have done so far is to establish that the pump rotates anti
clockwise,and that,therefore,any movement has to be in this direction
too,to delay the injection point a little.Interestingly,I also noticed
that the timing mark on the pump flange is about an eighth of an inch
in *advance* of the pointer bolted to the block.Since I have never
touched the pump in the eight years I've had the machine,I can safely
blame a PO.So this weekend,weather permitting,(no comments from *you*
Kenner)I intend to shift the pump round so the markers line up again.
A colleague here at work accuses me of hoping for a miracle,and I must
admit I have a sneaking suspicion he just *may* have a point,but I will
be content with any improvement,however slight.I will let those who
are interested know the result.after all,you petrol types cant have it
*all* to yourselves,there's *real* skill involved here:-)
The theory is simple when you think about it.If you inject too early,
the air isnt compressed enough to be sufficiently hot to burn the fuel.
So not only do you get incomplete combustion,and hence "white" smoke,
you also sqeeze some of the charge past the rings down the bores and
contaminate the sump oil,which thins it enough for it to be used.
You have to remember,as well,that a diesel has no vacuum advance/reatard,
if only because there aint no vacuum in the inlet manifold.This fact
accounts for the relative inflexibility of the diesel engine,which is
best suited to constant RPM duty,as in generators,or marine use.I've
no doubt some misguided soul will invent an electronic method of doing the
whole thing,but he can put it where it will hurt most,sideways,for me.
One great beauty of the diesel is that neither Joe Lucas,nor Silicon
Valley get any say in the manner of it's going,and long may it remain so!
Arguments/comments welcome,needless to say,both from fellow members of
The Oily Wad Club,and others.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Crumple Zones
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 94 12:31:53 GMT

Seen in one of the many free "newspapers" that we seem to get
these days,was an acount of a road accident that happened
locally.Mrs ----- driving a Fiat is in hospital in a critical
condition.The other driver,Mr ****,in a blue Land Rover,is unhurt.
I dont know who was at fault,although I have *never* seen a Land
Rover driven aggresively,but it *does* give you a feeling of
security,doesnt it?
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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Date: Fri, 25 Nov 94 15:13:58 GMT
From: Steve Temple <temples@cs.man.ac.uk>
Subject: Land Rover Mailing List

My earlier attempts to subscribe to this list seem to have failed. Could
you offer some help please.

Thanks,

--Steve

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From: dkenner@emr.ca (Dixon Kenner)
Subject: Re: Broken swivel ball drain plug
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 1994 10:37:49 -0500 (EST)

> Anybody have any ideas on how to remove the remaining part of the plug, 
> preferably without getting any metal inside the housing?

	Drill a small hole and use a screw extrator.  Get a reverse
	threaded drill for drilling the hole.  It might come out as you
	drill the hole for the screw extractor.  (They are very 
	useful bits & generally needed at least a few times a year,
	or so with me and my collection)

	Rgds,

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From: dkenner@emr.ca (Dixon Kenner)
Subject: Re: Broken swivel ball drain plug
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 1994 10:37:49 -0500 (EST)

> Anybody have any ideas on how to remove the remaining part of the plug, 
> preferably without getting any metal inside the housing?

	Drill a small hole and use a screw extrator.  Get a reverse
	threaded drill for drilling the hole.  It might come out as you
	drill the hole for the screw extractor.  (They are very 
	useful bits & generally needed at least a few times a year,
	or so with me and my collection)

	Rgds,

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From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Subject: rambling incitement to festiv debate...
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 94 15:43:22 GMT

On the subject of waving, I/we also drive a VW Beetle
(flames>/dev/null) and these people really do wave at each other
everytime.  Waves are bigger, wider and generally more
self-congratulatory in deep winter as each driver appreciates the
effort and/or money the other must have spent to still be mobile on
the road.

In contrast most LR drivers (ie LR+RR+Disco) have quite different
vehicles; some easy to maintain, plus some drive for business, plus
some are company cars, plus believe it or not they are more reliable
than VW Bugs, so that the community spirit is not as strong.

As far as the Series/non series rivalry goes I have never found it
less than friendly, and as an owner of both I appreciate that each has
its own driving merits and mechanical appeal.  Of course the opposite
ends of the spectrum have never lost the ability to amuse in the
extremes of arguments.  We've all heard of the driver who swears that
pre-'49 S1's were the LR pinnacle and everything has gone downhill
from then, or the LSE driver who really likes his vehicle but finds the
coat hooks marked 'transfer box' and 'diff lock' a little too low down in
the cab to be convenient.

Might I respectfully suggest a little festive debate on the old
chestnuts of eg. hard v soft tops and FWH's in the run up to Xmas? We've
had tyres (tires) and diesels recently, so something else would be
refreshing.  In fact who actually drives their 4WD off road!  I do.

Cheers,
Steve 79RR etc.

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From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Subject: rambling incitement to festiv debate...
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 94 15:43:22 GMT

On the subject of waving, I/we also drive a VW Beetle
(flames>/dev/null) and these people really do wave at each other
everytime.  Waves are bigger, wider and generally more
self-congratulatory in deep winter as each driver appreciates the
effort and/or money the other must have spent to still be mobile on
the road.

In contrast most LR drivers (ie LR+RR+Disco) have quite different
vehicles; some easy to maintain, plus some drive for business, plus
some are company cars, plus believe it or not they are more reliable
than VW Bugs, so that the community spirit is not as strong.

As far as the Series/non series rivalry goes I have never found it
less than friendly, and as an owner of both I appreciate that each has
its own driving merits and mechanical appeal.  Of course the opposite
ends of the spectrum have never lost the ability to amuse in the
extremes of arguments.  We've all heard of the driver who swears that
pre-'49 S1's were the LR pinnacle and everything has gone downhill
from then, or the LSE driver who really likes his vehicle but finds the
coat hooks marked 'transfer box' and 'diff lock' a little too low down in
the cab to be convenient.

Might I respectfully suggest a little festive debate on the old
chestnuts of eg. hard v soft tops and FWH's in the run up to Xmas? We've
had tyres (tires) and diesels recently, so something else would be
refreshing.  In fact who actually drives their 4WD off road!  I do.

Cheers,
Steve 79RR etc.

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From: dkenner@emr.ca (Dixon Kenner)
Subject: Re: Broken swivel ball drain plug
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 1994 10:37:49 -0500 (EST)

> Anybody have any ideas on how to remove the remaining part of the plug, 
> preferably without getting any metal inside the housing?

	Drill a small hole and use a screw extrator.  Get a reverse
	threaded drill for drilling the hole.  It might come out as you
	drill the hole for the screw extractor.  (They are very 
	useful bits & generally needed at least a few times a year,
	or so with me and my collection)

	Rgds,

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Date: Fri, 25 Nov 1994 17:08:48 GMT
From: venters@atm.ox.ac.uk (Peter Venters - Tel. [+44] (0)1865 272920)
Subject: Series 1 heaters

rwalker@dolphin.fen.qut.edu.au (Rodney Walker) asks re Series 1 heaters.

You may find that the flat heaters fitted to UK MoD air-portable (lightweight)
SWB Land-Rovers are a better bet, unless you are determined to preserve the
authentic original look. The flat heaters fit against the bulkhead in front of
the main gear lever. They produce as much (little?) heat as the round ones,
and get in the way of passenger legs rather less. They require a hole to be
fitted to allow the drivers side "hot" air hose to reach the windscreen, and
a couple of new holes for the water hoses. I got mine for UKP40 second hand
from John Craddocks. I had previously had a round version, which cost more than
UKP100 new, and lasted for only 6 or 7 years before developing a terminal
leak. 

Peter

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Date: Fri, 25 Nov 1994 12:39:52 -0500 (EST)
From: Marc Kruithof <mkruitho@FLASH.LakeheadU.CA>
Subject: busted bolts & such

Hello i fugure i'd send this in for those who have busted bolts and such
in strategically wrong places. the way i remove busted in bolst in such
places is to first check to see what size extractor that i will need to
remove the culprit (snap-on has them i don't know of anyone else) and take
the corresponding drill bit size and grease it liberally, the grease
should hold the shaving preventing the stuff from going in the wrong
places. you should keep on eye on it so as to be sure not to over do the
grease holding capacity. afterwards insert the extractor and remove your
culprit, this should be done relatively easy and you should have no
shaving where you don't want them. 

Try it first to see if you can get the knack(?) but it should work the
same anyways !

Marc Kruithof 
Looking for one !
classic 4bys and all !!

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From: ElanII@aol.com
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 1994 15:28:53 -0500
Subject: Land Rover

I would like to subscribe to an Land Rover mailing list which has been
mentioned.
David Morse

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Date: Fri, 25 Nov 1994 12:44:37 -0800
From: enders@ix.netcom.com (Bill B.)
Subject: Subscribe

Please subcribe me to your LandRover mailing list:

Subscribe enders@ix.netcom.com

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Date: Fri, 25 Nov 1994 22:14:50 +0200 (METDST)
From: S|ren Vels Christensen <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: PTFE Report

Hi rovers.

I think now is the time to share my experience regarding the use of PTFE
(Teflon[tm]) based lubrication additive. 

The product i use is Nulon. I went to a dealer and asked for a Nulon cure,
and he handed over two small bottles labeled E20 and E30. The E20 is a
cleansing product. The engine has to run 500-1500 km with it. I ran it for
about 2000. The engine lost more and more power and oil started to run out
of the crank bearings.  All this was expected. This week i removed the sump
to see if it was nescessary to de-sludge. There was hardly any sludge. 
I refitted the sump using a new gasket. The previous owner took it off many
years ago but he seemingly forgot to lubricate the gasket. I spent a lot
of time scraping the surfaces.

With the new oil i added E30. After only 15 km i can now drive uphill with
a little acceleration on the hills where could barely maintain my speed when
the E20 really begun to work.

Of course i bought an extra oilfilter.

Nulon claims that the cure will work 80.000 km, but my plan is to change oil
(Duckhams hypergrade 15w50) every 5.000 km and add E30 every second or third
change depending on how how the engine behaves.

I'll be back on the subject in X.000 km when results, -or the lack of such,
really shows.

In the meantime, get the oilreport from triumph (i forgot the FQDN). There
is a discussion (and warning) on teflon based additives. If you decide to
experiment, get some extra oil filters. Delco and Coopers are cheap.

+----------------------------+--------------------------------+
| Soren Vels                 | 1976  sIII  109"   2.25 petrol |
| velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk     | "Lawrence of Arabia"           |    ((|||))
| Royal Danish Air Force     | Dansk Land-Rover Klub no. 3564 |   ((|||))
| Communications Specialist  | DL-RK: Approx. 1000 members.   |    ((|||))
+----------------------------+--------------------------------+__((|||))______

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From: mtalbot@interserv.com
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 1994 14:38:39 -0800
Subject: Land Rover Flywheel

All, 

The flywheel is now gleaming clean.... Gunk, 600 wet and dry and elbow grease 
did the trick. There is no scratches on the surface so a regrind won't be 
required. The engine has only had 23,000 miles and the state of the flywheel 
backs that up. The clutch is in real good condition, but I'm replacing 
everything while its all out. Still I have a good spare.

Hey, went to visit the outlaws (read inlaws) yesterday, got a wave from a 
DISCO and a Range Rover. Must have been the holiday spirit ????

Mark

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From: mtalbot@interserv.com
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 1994 14:45:19 -0800

All, 

Has anyone got a "Rochester" Carb fitted to their Land Rover. After taking 
part my engine from #8 series III (The Vinalhaven Land Rover) I had a good 
look at the carb and stamped on the carb is the name Rochester. 

Anyone know where to get a rebuild kit for the Carb ???

Mark

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From: RRover2486@aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 1994 01:02:48 -0500
Subject: ROVER WANTED

"Must Have" a Camel Trophy Rover, the ultimate fashion accessory!
Currently drive a '64-88 and a '91-County, so I am looking for additional
diversity within my garage.  Camel Trophy tan with all the hardware, is a
must.  Signage or markings a nice option.  Didn't have to be a contender to
be of interest.  Really interested in the equipment and the mystique which
surround such a vehicle.  Year and condition not as important as they should
be.  Midwest location would be a plus.  Please send complete description and
price information ASAP if you know of such a vehicle.  

Thank you,
J. Howard Fisk
Springfield, Missouri
417-862-2900

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Date: Fri, 25 Nov 1994 23:42:16 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: all's well that end's well

That's a nice story!  I'm glad folks like that exist still somewhere.  My 
sister had an experience like that last spring coming home from Rhode Island 
-- Her subaru wagon blew the timing belt.  Spent a day or two being driven 
around by a couple of mechanics to look at new cars and such.  Ended up, the 
mechanic said he'd replace the timing belt, and if the engine was okay, she 
could pay him for the repair, and if the engine had bent a rod (or whatever 
it was that might have happened), he wouldn't charge her for it.  She had him 
do it, the engine was okay, and everyone was happy.  Rita had a nice couple 
of days with some really nice folks.  If you have to break down, Ogallala 
sounds like a nice place to do it.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                               

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