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Subject: lro & military Land Rovers
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 94 00:00:28 -0500

rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) writes:

>        exit now if you cant bear to read it.

        I read everything.  Sometimes I even pass comment...

> Most of you will by now realise that Bob Morrison is a friend of mine.
> It appears that the new hierachy at LRO "thinks" that they need less 
> military material in the magazine.

        Known that Bob is a friend of your for years.  Even like some of the
        stuff that he writes.  Can be rather interesting and informative.
        However, I do recall your message regarding the takeover of LRO by
        EMAP and the possible repercussions, and this seems to fit right in.

> To that end they have told him they will be scaling things back and doing 
> more in house stuff.

        So we will see more Defender, Disco, Range Rover shit.  How nice.
        I am sure the yuppies will be delighted not to read about old
        junkers still on the road.

        You know as well as I that they are losing subscriptions left, right,
        and centre to LRW (Guess they don't use postal orders & their excuse
        doesn't wash) because LRW realises that there is a military and
        *Series* market out there.  Again, the sale to EMAP and LRO as a
        cash cow seems to be coming true...  LRO seems to be more interested
        in the long-lost artform called Petomania.

> I find that we as readers like material that is there but never really 
> let the magazines know how we feel, I know I am guilty of this.

        LRO can get stuffed.  This is the magazine that perpetually runs a
        month late in delivery, has had a stated policy of "if your name
        appears in LRW you will never be published in LRO", doesn't give
        a damn about older Land Rovers for the most part...  Some people
        in LRO are rather nice and amiable.  Others are useless.  The people
        running the show seem to fall into the later catagory.

        LRO, I might remind you, deemed that off shore clubs didn't exist
        despite OVLR (and others) sending them a newsletter for a long
        time.  LRW has made a good effort to advertise clubs and their
        doings (good advertising for themselves too...) and wrote about
        OVLR the first time they heard of us.  You think I am going to be
        impressed with LRO?  Not a chance...

> If you like what Morrison does then please write in to LRO and let them 
> know that you like the material Bob puts out.

        The writing has been on the wall for something like this for the
        past year.  Morrison's audience just doesn't fit in with the new
        perceived demographics for the magazine.  As much as I would like
        to write LRO about this, there is so much other stuff I would like
        to flame them about.  Personally, I think LRW is the better route.
        They are nice on the phone, they listen to comments (whether they
        do anything is inmaterial really, it is a business and I don't
        have a clue how to run a successful magazine, nor want to...) and
        seem to have a better product that fits my interests.  240 pages
        of mostly advertising (LRO) doesn't fit my interests.

        Rgds,

        Dixon

        PS.  When my subscription to LRO lapses, it is history, just like
             the majority of everyone I know.  (You know anyone who has
             renewed LRO?  I don't...)  LRW has its faults, but it is new
             and here we have a case where the devil we know isn't
             necessarily better than the one we don't.
        PPS. Use a credit card like everyone else.  The rates are better
             than Communist Post & no one gives you any hassle.  'tis
             something the capitalist system seems to have done right
             (more or less...)
        PPS. LRO has been going down hill.  EMPA buys LRO.  LRO goes
             faster downhill.  LRO has a history of not paying writers
             for material...
             Linkhouse Magazines publishes LRW. Linkhouse has published
             Mini World for two years now. MiniWorld has gotten a lot
             better over time.  LRW can only go uphill through transfusion
             of knowledge from the sister magazine.  LRW has offered to pay
             writers for material thus far...
             Your conclusions?
        PPS. When you write LRO, convey my regards & my statement that the
             big green beastie & little earth pig will both outlast the
             current 90's and Discos that them seem so horny about.  I
             wouldn't tell them that I'll have more fun that the average 90
             owner.  It might upset them, or just have them adjust their
             blinders a little more.  Eventually they will pull them so
             tight, they may blow a head gasket and see the light.

        Now, back to my regularly scheduled job of writing correspondence
        and policy for the Deputy Minister...

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry,            |    Ottawa Valley Land Rovers
Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
(OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4

------------------------------

From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: lro reply mode (it happened again)
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 1994 01:59:40 -0600 (MDT)

Ray and Mark write:

< > only Ian got my reply.  I think *LOTS* of LRO net traffic
< > and dialog is lost this way `cause the LRO mailing list
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
< especially as I know that many interesting bits are lost to
< (inadvertent) private email...

The flip side of this is private email that inadvertently goes public
when the reply is automatically set to the list.  I have seen some
pretty horrendous examples on professional lists.  But, all in all, I
would think most of the traffic on lro -- whether it be technical,
toys, or trumpery -- is meant for all, and I too would like to see
such an automatic enhancement.  (But I am not sure it is possible in
this non-listserver environment -- is it?)

T. F. Mills                                              tomills@du.edu
University of Denver Library  2150 E. Evans Ave.  Denver  CO 80208  USA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Oct 1994 11:49:56 -0400
From: Andrew Steele <ad158@DAYTON.WRIGHT.EDU>
Subject: Discover on Car Talk

Good morning all,

Between pledge breaks this morning, Tom & Ray Marizotti(?), aka Click & Clack,
has a call from a woman on the east coast inquiring about the Land Rover
Discovery compared to other sport utilities.  She listed typical Ford
Explorer etc.   

Sorry, they have a national one hour automobile call-in radio show once a week
on National Public Radio.  Answer are always a mix of humor, psychology,
insults and occasionally a genuine question and answer with some degree of
brilliance.

Anyway, the conversation went something like this (as best I can read my
scribbles from the back of a grocery store receipt);

        It is more expensive than anything else on your list
        Add the Toyota Land Cruiser if you are going to spend that much
        Pile of money difference (comparing to Ford Explorer again)
        Explorer is more like a car, Discovery more, well like Moncho, no, 
                more like mystery.
        And no dealers to add to the excitement, but like driving a Land Rover
                in the desert, do dealers there either.  It's like they wanted
                to bring the adventure to you.
        Hated it at first blush (mentions having one to drive a short while
                while ago)
                - narrow stance
                - bouncy
                - a lot of dog hairs on the seat
                - dog w/arthritis or something had trouble jumping up to seat
        (But then the first impression seemed to moderate and they went on 
        something like)

        Two sunroofs & lots of pockets everywhere
        Unique
        Short kacky pants & hat
        like the Eddie Bower edition, needs a Marlin Perkins Edition.
        great on the highway (contrasting the first opinion above it think)
        fun

        They start to discuss how first impression change, but then
immediately digress to how much they dislike GM's new Firebird from the moment
they sat in it to the time they were done driving it.  (I think they ment to
contrast this with their experience with the Discover, but my station choose
to interrupt for a pledge break so I'm not sure )

Having not driven one yet myself, I have no personal comments.  Fortunately,
or not, my dealer is in Cincinnati (one hour away); so my experiences how been
less adventuurous than the desert.  However, Parkersburg WV next month may
change this?????

Andrew, & dog
Dayton, OH
87 RR

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Oct 94 18:34:47 EDT
From: "The X Window System: A VMS for the 90s" <brandenberg@wrksys.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Oil circuit question

I've been working on a persistent low oil pressure and green-light-on-decel
problem(s) for the past few weekends.  On some advice from TeriAnn,
I've reduced the oil pressure drop a bit but certainly haven't
eliminated it.  So, I've been going through the Rover and Haynes manuals
looks for things to try other than that wallet nightmare, bad bearings.
In poking around, I began to wonder how the hell pressurized oil is
kept out of the camshaft area and distributor.  The pressurized feed
from the pump goes up the shaft which leads, eventually, to the 
distributor/pump drive gear.  Before that, of course, it ports over
to the oil filter and beyond where, hopefully, it actually performs
some lubrication task.  But neither manual details or mentions any
kind of seal at the base of the drive gear.  A picture in the Haynes
manual suggests that the base might form a kind of journal in the
block.  Would someone who's poked in there care to enlighten me?

monty

------------------------------

Date: 22 Oct 94 20:49:46 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel consumption

...managed to find that old slide rule after all; so FWIW, 
here's what I've come up with:

1 US gall.  = .83 imp gall. = 3.78 l
1 imp gall. = 1.20 US gall. = 4.54 l
1 l = .22 imp gall. = .26 US gall.

1 mile = 1.61 km ( 1.609285714286 to be precise)
1 km   = .62 miles

1 mpg (US)  = 0.83 mpg (imp) = 234,93 l/100 km
1 mpg (imp) = 1.20 mpg (US) =  282,16 l/100 km

1 l / 100 km =  238.46 mpg (US)

1 km per litre = 2.38 mpg (US)

Please note that the consumption units mpg and l/100km are _reciprocal_:
Whereas with mpg the fuel volume is the fixed parameter (always 1 gallon)
and the distance travelled on this amount of fuel varies, with litres 
per 100km you have a certain distance travelled (1ookm) as fixed value,
and the amount of fuel consumed over this distance as variable parameter.
Take account of this when doing conversions between the two, or you will
get grossly inaccurate results.

Here are some 'reasonable' values:

20 mpg (US) = 16.6 mpg (imp) = 11.74 litres/100 km
15 litres/100 km = 15.89 mpg (US) = 18.78 mpg (imp)
8 litres/100 km = 36.47 mpg (imp) = 29.81 mpg (US)

Enjoy!

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Oct 1994 20:21:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Oil circuit question

If you look on page 23 of the Haynes manual, you will see in fig 1.11 a
cork seal letter D.  That is the only seal you have.  Under the
distributor is the drive shaft which goes down the pump drive shaft
housing and on top of all this sits the drivegear running off the cam
shaft and the driveshaft coupling.  An inexpensive thing to check is that
the units marked H, J, K, and L in Fig 1.13 Page 23 are in good shape. 
You can change your oil pressure by stretching spring K, but don't overdo
it :-)  I found that if you take out the ball and clean the seat under the
relief valve, you can often help your oil pressure a lot.  taking off the
pan and cleaning the screen on the oil pump is also a cheap fix sometime. 
You will notice that once you have the pan off, you can check the oil pump
by removing the two retaining bolts and doing the feeler gauge bit
mentioned and shown in the photo.  Some new pump gears shouldn't set you
back much and it can make your beast like new again.  Hope this helps.  By
the way, make sure your breather is clean.  It can clog and cause you to
force oil out of the engine by the back pressure built up by the pump and
the swinging counterweights.  Cheers Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Oct 1994 20:38:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Dual brakes

Has anyone rebuilt the dual brake cylinder on the Ser III?.  I recently
did my spare unit on the bench, and the plunger doesn't return on its own.
 I have to put some air pressure into it or bang it on my wood bench to
move the plunger back to the opening.  I don't want to install it and find
out it isn't moving and have to re-bleed all the lines.  I put in a new
valve and "O" ring seal and i honed the bore but I don't seem to recall it
being so hard to get to move.  Maybe my new rubber is just a bit tight :-)
Cheers Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Oct 1994 20:44:45 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Saving Land Rover Info

Is anyone else using QuickLink II Fax to contact the net?  I would like to
save the technical replys on a floppy, but I don't know how to transfer
the stuff over to a disk.  In the past two months there have been 30
really good tips on the list and I would like to keep them but they take
up a lot of room in the mail list.  Any help would be appreciated.  Is the
list of non Rover parts still being added to.  I hope someone else has
some tips.  I can add using snowmobile leather for doors and seats because
it won't freeze and split in the cold.  I have it on my head liner as well
and it is great.  And the foam pipe insulation is great for keeping the
heater hoses to your extra rear heater toasty warm in the winter.  I also
found that the heavy rubber used on loading docks makes a great rear mat. 
It is about 1/2" thick so it kills the noise as well as never wearing out.
 It can be taken out and hosed off at the car wash.  I also use flat
trailer connectors in the vehicle to attach the wires for the rear
windscreen wiper and overhead light.  It allows me to remove the top by
unplugging the wires rather than cutting them off each time :-)  They are
of course water proof, an extra bonus for people wading to the roof:-) 
For those who take their top off and then have cold climates to contend
with, I have found a 1" single sided foam tape with a plastic covered side
that is just the thing for the seal between the top and the box.  It is
available from any hardware store (at least up here where they sell lots
of insulation) for about $2.00 per roll.  It is enough for above the
window at the front and all around the box.  I found that my local tent
and awning store had some persplex type material to replace the scratched
plastic window on my soft top that is far superior to the stuff you get
from Jolly Old England.  It rolls easier and seems to scratch less. 
Finally, instead of replacing that bull nose pulley when the shaft gets
scored, go to any good automotive rebuild shop and ask for a Jiffy Sleeve.
 It has a resiistive fit to the shaft and will stop the leaks that happen
at the chain seal hole.  I suggest you have them put it on because it is a
tight fit and it should be pressed on die straight.  It makes the shaft
better than new since it is I believe stainless steal.  I hope some of
these things help.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: 23 Oct 94 01:38:15 EDT
From: Keith Steele <75126.1123@compuserve.com>
Subject: Head lights & window channels

Sandy;

Thanks for the information on the window channels.  I just send Bruce my head to
repair (if possible) and do the valve job.  When he is done I will ask him if he
has got the channels ready.

On the subject of headlights.  There was a discussion a month or so on the
subject but from personal experience.  I am using the 7 inch leagl halogen
sealed beam headlights on another car and am reasonably satisfied.  I used to
use CIBE illegal non-sealed beam head lights on my Rover and was very satisfied.
The low beam is identical to the Hella (which I just installed prior to the
rally).  The high beam on the CIBE is in the shape of an inverted V.  The bottom
of the V lights up the road close in and the top of the V lights the road very
far ahead (about 2-3 times the maximum stopping distance of a non-overdrive
equipped Land Rover.   IMHO the high beam of the Hella is good (better than
halogen sealed beam) but not as good as the CIBE lights.  The reason I got the
Hellas was that I could not locate the CIBE lights around Cincinnati.  

Annoying other drivers - The low beam of the Hellas/CIBEs is only slightly
brighter than normal but the beam has a VERY flat top.  The flat top keeps the
lights out of oncomming dirvers eyes and is actually easier on their eyes.  The
flat top also acts as a fog light and lights up the road below the fog and not
the fog in front of your eyes.  The right side of the beam slopes up to
illuninate road signs, pedistrians, and other assorted objects.  Because of the
design of the beam the illunination on low beam is much more even, you do not
get the two pools of light that you get with normal lights.   Aiming the beams
is very important.  If they are too high they will annoy other drivers and if
they are too low, because of the flat beam, they will not light up the road very
far ahead.   It is best to aim them by hand on a flat road at night preferably
with no traffic!  The only negative aspect of the Hella/Cibe low beams is when
you are topping a hill the low beams will momentairely lift up and may annoy
(but not blind) an oncomming driver.

I don't have bull bars so replacing the headlights was very easy.  Remove the
square bezel around the headlights on the front of the wing.  They are held on
by four screws.  The screws go into plastic blocks so they should not be frozen.
Once the bezel comes off it is obvious how to remove the headlights.  The two
screws you can see without removing the bezel (one on the top and one on the
side of each head light) are the aiming screws you do not need to take off the
aiming screws!

One last word of warning.  DO NOT TOUCH THE BULBS WITH YOUR HANDS in the
non-sealed beam head lights.  If you do the grease on your hands (even with
clean hands) will heat up and cause the bulbs to fail in a few hours.  Handle
them with a clean cloth or a paper towel.   If you do touch them clean well with
windex.

Once you have assembled all the tools (one flat screwdriver) it will take you
less than 5 minutes per lamp.  

Hope this helps and have fun

Keith Steele
75136,1123@compuserve.com
'72 Series III 88 since new (currently headless)

------------------------------

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