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Date: 21 Oct 94 06:40:51 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel consumption

> someone like to post a conversion chart for 1. U.S. miles/gallon 2.
> kilometers/imperial gallon 3. kilometers/litre 4. any other units of
> measure used.

I remember having a multi-purpose unit conversion slide rule (convert
from-anything to-anything) stashed away somewhere in my car. As soon
as I find it (*if* I find it) I'll post a - hopefully precise and
complete - consumption conversion table, ok ?
BTW there's yet another fuel consumption unit existing in the german
speaking european countries, "litres per 100 km"; weird, huh?

Take care,

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Fuel consumption
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 94 12:42:39 BST

> > Also, for those of us who are "mathematically challenged" ;-) would
> > someone like to post a conversion chart for 1. U.S. miles/gallon 2.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
> Stefan
> <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>
Before anyone goes to unnecessary trouble,the common units of
fuel consumption are:-
1)Miles per gallon (imp)
2)Miles per gallon (US)
2)Litres per 100km (Nasty foreign metric)

No-one,I venture to suggest,Kilometres per litre(despite the fact it
would seem to make more sense if they did),nor is there yet a
bastardised unit which uses imp and metric in the same expression.
Having said that,the metric system is such an unholy mess,I wouldnt
be surprised at anything it spewed up.Why we didnt all just convert
to the American system,particularly for screw threads is beyond me.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Oct 1994 09:28:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: Harry Greenspun <hgreensp@welchlink.welch.jhu.edu>
Subject: Re: Disco Bull-bars

   Several places sell them.  Atlantic-British has one which looks like 
original equipment.  Rovers North has the OEM.  However, if it's variety 
you want, D.A.P. sells Bearmach (made in Wales) which come in a wide 
range of styles.  Sorry, I don't have the numbers on me; check the FAQ.

Harry

------------------------------

Subject: L R W subscriptions
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Thu, 20 Oct 94 19:59:24 -0500

I told you all about my returned LRW subscrption a while ago.
I called the clowns at stonemart subscription services and told them I 
was not impressed.

They whined on about how it cost them 35 quid to cash a Canadian postal 
money order made out in pounds sterling.

I let them know that evry other place that I have dealt with in the uk 
has no trouble with them as they are totally negotiable and secure.

No they said, no dice. Fine i said , i'll pass on your weird and 
wonderfull ways to the rest of the net.

so be warned folks,

rgds

Robin

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry,            |    Ottawa Valley Land Rovers
Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
(OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <IAN@lab0.vet.edinburgh.ac.uk>
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 1994 14:58:01 +0000
Subject: Re: Fuel consumption

> > > Also, for those of us who are "mathematically challenged" ;-) would
> > > someone like to post a conversion chart for 1. U.S. miles/gallon 2.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> 2)Miles per gallon (US)
> 2)Litres per 100km (Nasty foreign metric)
Here's another thought -- what's the cost of fuel?

when we hit 2 quid a gallon (imp), we changed to litres....

Around my area, Unleaded petrol price = Diesel price = 50p/l (+/- 3p). 
anyone want to offer comparitiver prices?

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
WWW sites: Work -- http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/       
           Play -- http://tardis.ed.ac.uk/~ian/
#======================================================================#
I'm not a computing nerd, I'm a computing geek.   |Land Rover owners do
Geeks are much higher up the evolutionary chain.  |  it in the mud.

------------------------------

Subject: IIA Generator rebuild
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Thu, 20 Oct 94 20:03:55 -0500

Dirty diesel Dale Desprey lent me a generator from his IIA 68 88 for me 
to take into college and tinker with. This is how it went.

The unit was caked in guck and oil and mud.

Following the haynes manual as a guide the end with the terminals and 
studs was removed. oooooooooh

The inside field coils and brushes were totally choked with the above 
goo. Once the springs for the brushes were unearthed (literrally) the 
brushes still needed to be removed with a screw driver and hammer!

The hole unit was degreased and washed in the cleaning tank.

The commutator was worn. a small ridge at one end. This was filed down 
whilst the armature was in a drill press, saved the walk to the machine 
shop to use the lathe. Worked just fine.

Th casing was put into the glass beader after stuffing the inside to 
protect the coils. Really well cleaned, primed and then black painted and 
set aside.

Bearing at pulley end seems fine so we elected to leave the pulleys on. 
Again with protection over the goodies and bearings it was glass beaded 
to clean up the pulleys and the fan parts. These were then primed and 
painted black.

Commmutator check for continuity, and comutator to shaft checked for lack 
of contiuity. Put on a growler to check the windings, came up "A" ok.

A new set of brushes were bought, toatly cost less that $5 can dollars.

bushing was lubricated with a white grease gunk and unit reassembled.

Terinals on the end checked for continuity ( oops , forgot to mention 
that field coils were checked for contiuity earlier aswell.) Everything 
fine.

unit bench mounted and a 12volt battery used to check that it would turn 
over fine, which it did, no problem.

Unit place in a box, ready for delivery back to Dale, looks a super 
rebuild too me.

A word of warning to you all, when taking apart your starters generators 
etc, after the field coils are inserted at the factory, and the magnets 
installed all units are line bored. There for if you undo them from the 
casing they will most likely foul the armature on reassembly!

regards

Robin

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry,            |    Ottawa Valley Land Rovers
Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
(OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4

------------------------------

Subject: lro & military Land Rovers
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Thu, 20 Oct 94 19:54:49 -0500

       This is a biased message concerning a friend
       exit now if you cant bear to read it.

Most of you will by now realise that Bob Morrison is a friend of mine.
It appears that the new hierachy at LRO "thinks" that they need less 
military material in the magazine.

To that end they have told him they will be scaling things back and doing 
more in house stuff.

I find that we as readers like material that is there but never really 
let the magazines know how we feel, I know I am guilty of this.

If you like what Morrison does then please write in to LRO and let them 
know that you like the material Bob puts out.

Thanks 

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry,            |    Ottawa Valley Land Rovers
Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
(OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4

------------------------------

From: OliverGr@aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 1994 10:52:24 -0400
Subject: Discovery Turbo-Diesel specs...

Does anyone have the specs for the Turbo-Diesel version of the Discovery?
Performance? Mileage? Are there any hints on the horizon that it may be
brought to the US in the near future? How long has the Discovery been
produced in Europe? Also, why in the world doesn't Rover send their long
wheelbase Defenders over here (US)? Thanks...

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Fuel consumption
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 94 16:38:04 BST

This area (Midlands),diesel 47.9/l,unleaded 48.9l leaded about 50.
Interestingly,the last fill of diesel I got was ELF deodorised stuff.
It doesnt smell at all,but it doesnt seem to smoke any less.However,I
*do* seem to be getting a few more MPG's out of it.Cant be bad!
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: IIA Generator rebuild
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 94 16:41:20 BST

Hmmmm.Whatever happened to undercutting the commutator(which by
virtue of the operation on the drilling machine isnt round
anyway).
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: ccray@lulu.cc.missouri.edu
Subject: LULU's pumpkin patch revisited...
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 1994 11:02:49 -0500 (CDT)

Thanks to the LRO net wisdom, I am now half-way towards getting
my daily driver back on the road.
-- pulled the half shafts, ok
-- dropped the drive shaft (3/4 bolts came right out, of course
   the 4th had to be cut off with a torch).
-- pulled the diff.  I knew there were problems when I drained
   the oil -- lots of small ground up metal parts there -- no
   big ones, however -- and the oil level was proper.  
   Very effective grinder it appears.
-- One of the spider gears had 1/3 of the teeth missing.  All
   others including the pinion/crown wheel look fine.
-- Threw both both diffs (old and new) onto the trailer and took
   `em down to the carwash and spent $3 to clean `em up good.
   Let `em dry and sprayed with WD40.
-- Parts are on order for putting in the replacement.  Should
   only take another evening.  From an earlier thread, I remember
   I need to weld up some sort of cheater bar that attaches where
   the drive shaft bolts on to allow me to torque down the
   pinion nut properly.
OK, thought you would get off with a status report, but NO, I
have some questions to ask:
--  My driving is quite reasonable.  No tire smoking, no
    spinning wheels from ice onto dry pavement.  
Q:  Any ideas why this happened.  Is the LR diff more prone
    to breakage than other vehicles or is it just "shit happens"...
    I haven't the slightest idea of the mileage.
--  It goes against my grain just to scrap this diff.  I know
    I will wrap it in plastic and set it on the shelf in it's
    current state.  I would like to rebuild it and keep it for
    future use.  RN sells the spider gears but they are only
    available in a set of 4 for $175.  It doesn't appear to make
    sense to rebuild with new parts.  I really looked at the
    other gears and they all look ok.  
Q:  I had this problem when I overhauled my TX.  How do you look
    at gears and bearings and truly understand if they are
    worn and need replacement:
    a.  I know ball bearings can be viewed with a light as
        a background to look for pits in the race.  Any pits,
        replace.  Of course, make sure it spins with no
        obstruction
    b.  Roller bearings, I just make sure they spin.  I know
        you aren't supposed to air spin them, but I do just
        a *little* cause it is so fun.
    c.  Gears always look ok to me.  (I ordered a low gear for
        the TX rebuild and the new one looked just like the
        old one except for some minor wear, but someone
        told me "...I always replace the low gear...")
--  Anyway, back to the diff, the bearings didn't make extra
    noise while still running and things appear to rotate ok.
    So, maybe I could get by by getting some used spider gears.
Q:  Do I really need 4 -- won't one eventually mesh in with
    the others. 
--  I certainly don't want to take the diff apart, cause the
    manual paints a pretty exacting picture of rebuilding it
    with close tolerances and special tools.
Q:  Has any netter out there rebuilt a diff -- or just repaired
    one by putting in new spyder gears.  It appears to me that
    they could all 4 just drop out by pulling 2 cotter pins
    and sliding out 2 rods.
Q:  Is $100 the street price for a used diff?  If so, maybe I
    am wasting time and mental energy worrying about this.
Q:  Any netter out there have a diff in similiar state -- we could
    flip and the winner gets the parts to rebuild.

Anyway, good to know the source of the noises.  BTW, LULU's 
automated frame oiler seems to be working quite well.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Ray Harder                 Columbia, Missouri   314-882-2000
 
         "...you are what you drive..."
 
- 61 SIIa 88 (LULU, aka Experimental)  - 66 SIIa 88 (rebuild project)
- 69 SIIa 88 (parts)                   - 87 RR      (wife's)
- 80 MGB                               - xx
---------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel consumption
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 94 12:27:44 EDT

Ian Stuart asks:

> Here's another thought -- what's the cost of fuel?

Here in the metro NY area, where gas is about as expensive as it
gets in the states, we pay in the $1.20-1.60 range for unleaded
gasoline these days, depending upon the grade (roughly 86-93 octane
rating), the seller (generally, Mobil, Exxon, Sunoco, and Texaco
are the "top of the line" gasolines, but the actual location of the
station and the greed of the station's owner also affect the price),
and the time of year (now as we enter the winter season we are being
hit with the heavily oxagenated fuels which cost a dime or so more
per gallon).  A heavy chunck of this price goes to taxes, which 
supposedly are directed towards road improvement (but you really
wouldn't notice).  Gas is cheaper in Joisey, mostly on account of
reduced state taxes on gasoline (and much much much higher toll rates
on their highways).

rd/nigel

------------------------------

From: ccray@lulu.cc.missouri.edu
Subject: it happened again...
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 1994 12:11:42 -0500 (CDT)

OK, so I am wasting company time -- actually it is 12:05 --
the noon hour.  I just spent 5 minutes composing my reply
to the gas price question and sent it in.

The problem is that I didn't "CC" the LRO mailing list and
only Ian got my reply.  I think *LOTS* of LRO net traffic
and dialog is lost this way `cause the LRO mailing list
software does not change the "FROM-TO" address to the LRO
mailing list. When you reply, it only goes to the original
poster.  You have to *consciously* "CC" the LRO mailing list
to keep the dialog available to all subscribers.

I know we discussed this before, but being dumb, this
happens to me a lot.

Just griping, sorry, steam vented, all ok, back to work...
Actually, I love the LRO mailing list and am very happy
to be a subscriber.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Ray Harder                 Columbia, Missouri   314-882-2000
 
         "...you are what you drive..."
 
- 61 SIIa 88 (LULU, aka Experimental)  - 66 SIIa 88 (rebuild project)
- 69 SIIa 88 (parts)                   - 87 RR      (wife's)
- 80 MGB                               - xx
---------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Oct 1994 12:17:19 -0600
From: hiner@mail.utexas.edu (Greg Hiner)
Subject: Rover 2.25l petrol engine 4sale in TX, USA

I'm posting this for a friend so please call him to ask questions.

Land Rover 2.25l petrol engine complete from '71 88 - he is going to go
with a Scotty conversion. Engine is in Austin, TX. It is still in the car
at this time. $500.

John Spitta - 512 472-3666

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Oct 94 10:38:01 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  Disco Bull-bars

There are several other sources of such accessories but I don't think any of 
the non-dealer ones are up to the airbag world yet. Even the dealers don't
yet have an airbag compatible winch mount.

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

From: Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com>
Subject: Re: it happened again...
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 94 12:38:22 CDT

ccray@lulu.cc.missouri.edu said:

> The problem is that I didn't "CC" the LRO mailing list and
> only Ian got my reply.  I think *LOTS* of LRO net traffic
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> I know we discussed this before, but being dumb, this
> happens to me a lot.

Ray, I am glad to know that it isn't only to me that this
happens all the time.  No, really, in most areas of life I
even consider myself competent...

I'd love to see your suggestion (implicit above) implemented.
I love the LRO list and would like to see more exchanges,
especially as I know that many interesting bits are lost to
(inadvertent) private email...

Mark
mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Oct 94 10:43:17 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re: Disco Bull-bars

In addition to Harry's suggestions, there are also ARB bullbars available 
from Rovers North and British Pacific, TJM bullbars available through
Downey off-road, and Aussie bullbars from Oz bars in Oregon

However, as far as I know, none of them are "airbag certified".

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Oct 1994 14:40:33 -0400
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: The Great Pumpkin & Lulu

Ray asks:

none
--  My driving is quite reasonable.  No tire smoking, no
    spinning wheels from ice onto dry pavement.  
Q:  Any ideas why this happened.  Is the LR diff more prone
    to breakage than other vehicles or is it just "shit happens"...
none

Probably due to the abuse/neglect of the previous owner.  Just keeping the 
diff topped off and changing it every other year (more often if you wade) can 
make it live so much longer.

none
--  It goes against my grain just to scrap this diff.  I know
    I will wrap it in plastic and set it on the shelf in it's
    current state.  I would like to rebuild it and keep it for
    future use.  RN sells the spider gears but they are only
    available in a set of 4 for $175.  It doesn't appear to make
    sense to rebuild with new parts.  I really looked at the
    other gears and they all look ok. 
none

Keep it for a rainy day (or if you get snowed in).  Strip it down completely 
to teach yourself how it works, then if you can't find used parts, order them 
from one of the UK suppliers if you can't afford RN.  Then you can take your 
time and borrow (or buy) a dial gauge and rebuild it properly.  It's amazing 
how much more fun it can be when you are not under any pressure.  And you'll 
be amazed at the increase in your level of self confidence regarding your 
mechanical skills.

none
Q:  I had this problem when I overhauled my TX.  How do you look
    at gears and bearings and truly understand if they are
    worn and need replacement:
none

If one side of a gear tooth looks more worn than the other (compare the 
profiles, or if there is any sign of galling/pitting, replace it.

none
    b.  Roller bearings, I just make sure they spin.  I know
        you aren't supposed to air spin them, but I do just
        a *little* cause it is so fun.
none

Bad boy! Bad boy! No! No! No!  (Yea, I know it's fun.  I used to do it in my 
Piston Engine class... and my instructor would go ape shit on my... which I 
guess was part of the fun).

none
    c.  Gears always look ok to me.  (I ordered a low gear for
        the TX rebuild and the new one looked just like the
        old one except for some minor wear, but someone
        told me "...I always replace the low gear...")
none

If you are referring to the IIA main box, he was right.  The low gear does 
wear disproportionately to the other parts.

none
    So, maybe I could get by by getting some used spider gears.
Q:  Do I really need 4 -- won't one eventually mesh in with
    the others.
none

If you've gone to that much trouble, get the 4 (I think they only come in 
matched sets).

none
--  I certainly don't want to take the diff apart, cause the
    manual paints a pretty exacting picture of rebuilding it
    with close tolerances and special tools.
none

Since it will be a spare diff at that point, do it.  If nothing else, think of 
it as a therapeutic exercise that will take your mind off of lifes larger 
problems.

none
Q:  Is $100 the street price for a used diff?  If so, maybe I
    am wasting time and mental energy worrying about this.
none

$100 is exactly what I paid Mr. Denis for my spare diff.  When I got the 88 
all the hub seals were leaking.  When I pulled the first seal on the real axle 
mud & water seeped out past the axle.  I drained the diff and it was 1 part 
water and 2 parts sludge.  I can't imagine how that much water got in there.  
I pulled the axles and the diff (Geez! That's heavy!!!) and found a couple of 
the spyder gears to be pitted along with several teeth on the crown wheel.   I 
hosed the inside of the axle casing with gunk, scrubbed it, and flushed it 
(several times until it was clean)  I replaced everything and changed the oil 
again after 500 miles, then once a year since.  It's been fine with no filings 
and no noise after almost 4 years.  After I discovered this I was afraid that 
I might get stuck when the diff failed and bought the spare from Steve.  But 
folks told me that it could go for a very long time in that state, and at this 
point I don't worry about it.

Good Luck and have a great weekend!

Bill

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Oct 1994 16:55:33 EDT
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: SS Window Channels

Keith-
A local ship chandler, Paxton Co., sells 8' lengths.  I think the double
tracks are about $20, less for the single.  If you can figure how to ship
them (does UPS do 8'?) their number is 804-853-6781.  I gave Bruce at
British Rovers their number and he was going to order 100 pieces (the
minimum wholesale order direct from the mfg.) and cut 'em up into proper
lengths, but I don't know if he has done so.

A tip: these things fit tight.  The glass rides on a strip of derlin or
zytel rather than the rudinentary felt/moss/fungi/tree seedling setup
common to most Rovers.  The strip can be removed and there is a cloth shim
strip underneath that can be removed to give a bit more clearance.

Now for my question: WRT the thread on halogen lights, I have finally
decided to replace my *original* Lucas sealed beams (200K miles, 22 years)
which, as someone at OVLRC said, serve more to warn oncoming drivers than
actually illuminate the road.  Off road, the pair of 130W auxillarys do
just fine, but as these illuminate into the next county (no one, but *no
one* fails to dip beams approaching the Rover!) they're no good for highway
use.

Several years ago, I bought some supposed 7" sealed beam Phillips bulbs
(french manufacture), but these things wouldn't fit the steel retaining
ring in the headlight bucket. I put this down to the typical French way of
doing things: slightly off center just to be different.  Now the local auto
parts store has some halogen 60/40W Sylvania 7" lamps on sale while another
has some nifty, bright (illegal?) Hella's.  With brush guards/bumper
overriders, it ain't a five minute job.  Anyone else had problems fitting
"7 inch" lamps?

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: LULU's pumpkin patch revisited...
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 94 18:24:28 EDT

> -- Parts are on order for putting in the replacement.  Should
>    only take another evening.  From an earlier thread, I remember
>    I need to weld up some sort of cheater bar that attaches where
>    the drive shaft bolts on to allow me to torque down the
>    pinion nut properly.

You can get away with brakes, assuming they work and that you 
have your half shafts in.

> Q:  Any netter out there have a diff in similiar state -- we could
>     flip and the winner gets the parts to rebuild.

Nigel (aka the growler) has his original diff in nowadays (no more
leaks!!).  No teeth missing, but the bearings really ought to be
replaced sometime (like, uh, I should have done them while I had
those two brand new leaking rear diffs in there, but.....).  I just
turn up the radio....oops, don't have a radio....I just open the
window and sing along with it.

rd/nigel

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 1994 20:34:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: LULU's pumpkin patch revisited...

Ray is happy...

> Thanks to the LRO net wisdom, I am now half-way towards getting
> my daily driver back on the road.
none

snip-snip

> OK, thought you would get off with a status report, but NO, I
> have some questions to ask:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>     to breakage than other vehicles or is it just "shit happens"...
>     I haven't the slightest idea of the mileage.

You could say "shit happens", but that is the official motto of the OVLR and
you would have to ask Dixon's permission first...

Cheers... and good luck
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern)       

------------------------------

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