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From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 1994 00:50:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: questions about being shafted...

Ray Harder Writes....

Snip......

> So now I think I have a broken rear axle shaft. 

Snip......

> So, question to the netters (having never done a broken
> rear axle shaft) is the repair job just:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>     piece.
> 4.  cleaning out all metal bits from the axle oil-sump.
> 5.  installation is the reverse of above.
 
That's about it, Ray... To be a little more technical, the "gizmo" in #1 is
called a "drive flange" and the "pumpkin" in #3 is a differential (or diff
for short). If you haven't done it yet, pull the axel half-shafts and find
out if one *is* broken.
 
> Is there anyway to avoid taking off the "pumpkin" to get
> to the broken piece (any way to fish it out with say a
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> vendors advise.  Any other information would be
> appreciated.
 
Everybody has a favourite method.. What has worked for me is to pull out
both axel half-shafts. Then I use a piece of steel rod about 3/8" in
diameter to drive the broken bit out of the diff. You insert the rod in the
side where the good axel shaft was and with the aid of a good flashlight,
work the end of the rod into the diff where the axel was and then alongside
the center spindle shaft. You should be able to make contact with the broken
part of the other shaft. Give the rod a few good whacks and hopefully the
broken stuff pops out. Then you can fish out the bits with a magnet. To be
sure, you should open up the diff and inspect the works inside for damage
and small bits of metal, but if your out in the middle of east no-where when
you snap an axel you may be interested in getting the beastie mobile first.
Now, if you can't pop out the broken part, then you have no choice but to
open up the diff. 

> The other possibility is pinion shaft and crown wheel gear
> damage but I am leaning towards the axle shaft.  From that
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> around and my current rear axle has a lot of slop in
> the gearing.

I believe the front and rear diffs are interchangeable, assuming the axel
gear ratios are the same. As to parts to get, you *should* replace both axel
shafts at the same time. You are also going to need new gaskets for the
drive flanges and a gasket for the differential.
Good luck with it
Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern)       

------------------------------

Subject: please send items for the list to 'lro@team.net'
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 94 05:47:25 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

------- Forwarded Message

From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Stars and Land Rovers
Message-ID: <940927123507_70004.4011_FHT78-2@CompuServe.COM>

Ian:

You might want to consider putting Don Johnson and Melanie Griffith each with
1/2 a Range Rover... they just split up again.

No, I really don't follow these things, but when there is the welfare of a Range
Rover at stake...

Great list

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid 

------- End of Forwarded Message

------------------------------

Subject: please send stuff for the list to 'lro@team.net'
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 94 06:32:48 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

------- Forwarded Message

From: "Jurgen Klus" <PSJK@psy1.ssn.flinders.edu.au>
Organization:  Flinders University of S.Aust.
Date:          Wed, 19 Oct 1994 14:07:29 GMT-0930
Subject:       Fuel economy and engine oil

I've been reading with interest the economy that some of you are 
getting out of your V8 Discovery's
Out of my 3.5 V8i 5 speed, I get 18.5-19 m.p.g. around town, and the 
same on a trip fully laden towing an off-road trailer. On a country 
trip without a trailer, I get between 23-27 m.p.g.
I don't know what you do to get the mileage that you do!
I use 92 octane unleaded.

On the issue of oils I use Castrol RX-Super. I think its 15W40. Stay 
away from oils with detergents in them, as according to both Castrol 
and the Land Rover dealer, they sludge up the V8.
I change the engine oil every 5,000 kilometres. Forget the breakdown 
of viscosity, that's almost irrelavent with todays oils. You need to 
get the corrosive by-products of combustion out e.g. sulphurs etc.

regards
Jurgen Klus  Tel 618 201 2413    Fax 618 201 3877
When the going gets tough..the tough get Land Rover!

------- End of Forwarded Message

BTW: On my 3.5L 4spd w/OD, I've been getting about 4m/l or something like
18mi/imp.gal. (15mi/u.s.gal)  (slightly better on the road, slightly worse
about town/mixed driving)
 -B
    Cheers,
	--bill	caloccia@Team.Net	caloccia@Stratus.Com

      1  3     dl OD  L           "Land Rover's first, becuase
      |--|--+  o  |   |            Land Rovers last."
      2  4  R     N   H           '72 Range Rover ++ '69 S.IIa 88"

------------------------------

Subject: Discovery Steering box
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 94 06:33:45 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

------- Forwarded Message
From: "Jurgen Klus" <PSJK@psy1.ssn.flinders.edu.au>
Date:          Wed, 19 Oct 1994 15:14:55 GMT-0930

Our steering box leaked early in the cars life. It was replaced with 
a new improved one under warranty. No more leaks.
Jurgen Klus  Tel 618 201 2413    Fax 618 201 3877
When the going gets tough..the tough get Land Rover!

------- End of Forwarded Message

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Oct 1994 00:05:40 +1200
From: DAVID L DEAN <DEAND@kea.lincoln.ac.nz>
Subject: Series I King Pins

Series I Enthusiasts,

I need to replace the kingpins on my 1956 SI LWB flatdeck.  The local 
parts merchant in Christchurch (NZ) offered original (NZ$100), SII/III 
(NZ$120) or roller bearing units (NZ$150) from a RR?  He said that if I 
put in the roller bearing units I would probably need to put in a steering 
damper to keep from losing knuckles offroad (not exactly a padded steering 
wheel).  Any thoughts?

FYI: NZ$1 = US$0.62

Also, I still contend that you could finance a trip to NZ with the savings 
on an old LR.  I can get some current prices if anyone is interested....

Cheers,

------- (David L. Dean - Department of Economics & Marketing) -------
----------- (Lincoln University, Canterbury, New Zealand) -----------
--- ("sober fearless pursuit of truth, beauty, & righteousness") ----

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Oct 1994 07:14:01 -0400
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: LRO Late Again

none

Morgan asks:

none
Has anyone here on the left coast received the October issue
of LRO magazine yet?  Should I assault the postman?
none

Russ replies:    

none
Not yet......

russ
none

I'm in NJ and I haven't received my October issue yet either.  I received 
November's LRW 2 1/2 weeks ago, however.  I'll be calling LRO the first week 
in November if I still haven't received it.  It won't be the first time.

Bill

Wayne, NJ USA

88 IIA & 109 Wagon

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

Date: 19 Oct 94 07:22:51 EDT
From: Leslie from Florida & Liverpool <100042.254@compuserve.com>
Subject: B Wing writes : wanted 109

Braham C Wing writes

 >Looking for a 1970 or earlier Series II 109 hardtop.... good body....chassis
and body can be junk.....

 I have several 109's that have good bodies, chassis, and engine.  All are in
need of restoration work, but at least you are starting with something solid. 
I guess it really depends what type of budget you have to start with.  We can
get you a restorable land rover to your specs VERY reasonably here.  Send me
an Email with your specs and budget if your interested.

 Cheers

 Leslie

------------------------------

Date: 19 Oct 94 07:58:05 EDT
From: Leslie from Florida & Liverpool <100042.254@compuserve.com>
Subject: Hey Pierce.... also trailers and winches

 -------------------------------------------------
 FORWARDED MESSAGE - Orig: 19-Oct-94 10:53
 Subject: mis-addressed mail
    From: William Caloccia > INTERNET:caloccia@sw.stratus.com
      To: Leslie Stutsman 100042,254
 -------------------------------------------------

 From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

 Hi Leslie,
 I as just going through the mail pile and found this messages,
 it was addressed to lro-request instead of lro@team.net or whatever.
 (>>>>Sometimes I really am a dumb****.  Oh well....) <<

 This might explain why it wasn't received as expected...

 Cheers,
 -Bill

 ------- Forwarded Message
 Hi Pierce

 Just read through a million digests - having fallen a bit behind.  Yes I
tried to
 locate your dad as well.  I think we just kept missing each other. Anyway his
vehicle was beautiful.  I dont think it really matters that it is not all
original.  And
 yes I think we all know who you where talking about....

 We didn't have much time in the states, just 2 days.  But the canadian guys
were
 great.  I know it would not have been anywhere as much fun if it hadn't been
for
 those guys.  Loved the video of the b'day bash.  We are a bit lacking in the
4WDing out here, unless you own a farm.

 Just went to Wales last weekend to do some 4wd ing.  There is a pub that is
out
 on a beach only accessable by 4wd.  Lots of beaut Land rovers to look at! 
But that is the extent of our 4wding.

 Trailers - still have not seen a one for less than 250/300 pounds. Trailers
are a pretty desired item and that keeps the price up I guess. I will be going
to some
 auctions though, so maybe I will find one cheap there.  Are you still
interested?(Just located some near perfect ones, including some "tippers" for
$300)

 BTW I have 3 winches that I am taking offers on: a hydraulic winch (hello
DIXON..........) and another rated at 9000 pounds and includes the bumper
attachments.  The 3rd is a HUGE fairey PTO driven winch.  Don't know what it
is rated, gotta give Fairy a call, but I would say 12,000 plus.  It came off a
water board truck and it was used to haul trees out of rivers, etc. It
includes the bumper mounting plate.  Are you or anyone else interested? Email
me an offer. (highest offer takes it of course)

 Did you go to the Virginia rally?  Wish I could have gone....
 ...

 Cheers

 Leslie

 ------- End of Forwarded Message

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Oct 1994 07:58:59 -0400
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: Pumpkin Time For Lulu

Ray relates the symptoms: 

none
 ...Popping noises when going around corners or over large 
    bumps under power... But it got worse with interesting symptoms: 
 ...Once when I went up a steep grade from a standing stop 
    it started popping like a rachet on a socket drive and 
    I wasn't moving anywhere... 
 ...It kept getting worse and worse. 
 ...No noises as above when 4wd engaged (but hard on car 
    and driver on dry pavement)... 

The other possibility is pinion shaft and crown wheel gear damage but I am 
leaning towards the axle shaft. 
none

If an axle shaft was broken you would have no drive in 2WD and little/no 
noise.  Either the spider gears in your diff have worn to the point that they 
are jumping/skipping teeth in engagement with the pinion or crown gears or the 
locknut carrier has worked it's way loose (doing the same sort of damage).  
Different spider gears come into play when going around corners, so one side 
is worse than the other.  As for "popping like a rachet" under load, the 
torque is transmitted to the weaker/damaged side- the side that will spin 
first.  I'm afraid there's nothing for it but to replace the diff (all of the 
gears will probably be damaged at this point).  I think the axles will come 
out easily. Removing the diff is not hard but it is heavy (at 60-70lbs, more 
than half my weight- and I've done it).  Examine your axles for signs of 
twisting or wear in the splines.  If not, they may be OK. 

>From that perspective, is the "pumpkin" (what is the proper name for that 
none
carrier) interchange-able between the front and rear axles on a SII 88? I have 
a good front axle setting around and my current rear axle has a lot of slop in 
the gearing. 
>From that perspective, is the "pumpkin" (what is the proper name for that 

Great!  The diff in your spare front axle will probably be fine if it isn't 
filled with water.  The ratio should be the same so there should be no 
problems.  Order a diff gasket, a pair of hub gaskets, and a pair of the 
rubber/felt seals (you may want to replace the pinion seal and gasket at the 
same time while you have it out.  Polish the surface on the flange that the 
seal rides against.  It will probably be dirty/pitted/slightly scored).  If 
you want to finish it this weekend and do not have the parts and if the 
rubber/felt seals are good and you are patient and the old gaskets come off in 
one piece, you can buy a roll of gasket material and cut them yourself (talk 
about run-on sentences!).  While you're at it, remove the wheel hubs and once 
you have the diff and axles out, spray gunk in the rear axle case.  Scrub it 
well and flush thouroughly with a hose.  Then do it again until all of the 
filings have gone.  You're going to find plenty. >> 

Good Luck! 

Bill 

maloney@wings.attmail.com 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Oct 1994 07:31:24 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: LROI ??????

I've not seen it here in The City.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                               

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Oct 1994 11:13:25 -0400
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: Re: Pumpkin Time For Lulu

(Ray, I would have given you a direct response also the first time around but 
my mail header does not always give me a useable return address) 

(Ray, I would have given you a direct response also the first time around but 
But this baloney sounds interesting... I guess I (being naive) thought diffs 
only wore out slowly -- excess noise and slop.  I didn't think they actually 
failed with slipping gears and broken teeth. 
(Ray, I would have given you a direct response also the first time around but 

You're right, they rarely do. 

(Ray, I would have given you a direct response also the first time around but 
When I got Lulu about 15k miles ago, the rear-diff was *low* on ep90, so I 
just topped it off and kept going. 
(Ray, I would have given you a direct response also the first time around but 

Oh, Oh...  Sounds like the main box in my IIA.  I drained about a cup of black 
oil(?) from it after I got it before I put it on the road.  It went fine for 
about a year until BANG!!! went the layshaft, and GRIND, CHIP CHIP CHIP went 
2nd and 3rd as I tried to figure out what was going on (I didn't know any 
better at the time). 

(Ray, I would have given you a direct response also the first time around but 
Me being a half-reared machanic, answer this:  I ran out of time and didn't 
really want to do it, so I had a garage replace the pinon seal on this rear 
axle (about 2 months and 4k miles ago). I know there is a lock nut involved 
with that process.  Could mis-adjustment of that job have caused 
rear-differential failure? 
(Ray, I would have given you a direct response also the first time around but 

If the lock nut has come undone, the pinion can shift in and out of the diff 
giving widely varying geartooth clearances.  Unbolting your propshaft at the 
diff flange will confirm this.  I'm not sure if this alone can change the 
clearance enough to jump gearteeth or to damage other items. 

(Ray, I would have given you a direct response also the first time around but 
OK, I get the joy of lugging this thing back from storage. 
(Ray, I would have given you a direct response also the first time around but 

I'd rather risk a hernia than lay out the $$$ for a new or used diff.  But 
them again I'm economically challenged. 

(Ray, I would have given you a direct response also the first time around but 
My question on interchanging the pumpkin from the front to the rear was not 
related to gear ratios, but 1: will it bolt up 
(Ray, I would have given you a direct response also the first time around but 

Yup 

(Ray, I would have given you a direct response also the first time around but 
2: are things turning in the right direction (front one being attached 
backwards compared to the rear). 
(Ray, I would have given you a direct response also the first time around but 

Yup (it really doesn't matter) 

(Ray, I would have given you a direct response also the first time around but 
3: if thing *were* turning one direction will I now be turning things in a 
different direction with all kinds of wear and mating problems (remember, I am 
trying to be a mechanic, I am *not* one)... 
(Ray, I would have given you a direct response also the first time around but 

You've touched on an interesting point.  Now that a front diff is in the back, 
the back surfaces of the gear teeth that are rarely used (and probably have 
very little wear - they only bear a load in reverse or when engine braking 
downhill in 4WD) will come into play.  It may seem a tad noisy at first but 
should bed in quickly.  Changing the diff oil a few hundred miles after 
installation should clear the majority of any bed-in filings from the diff 
(it's cheap insurance). 

More Baloney with Provalone from Maloney 

maloney@wings.attmail.com 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Oct 1994 16:51:13 +0100
From: Peter van der Landen <Landen@cir.frg.EUR.NL>
Subject: Discovery steering box etc.

The same thing happened to me. My may '92 Discovery TDI started leaking 
from the steering box after a few months. The garage fixed the seals. After 
a few months it leaked again, they fixed the seals again (under warranty). 
Then, after the warranty had expired and it started leaking again they 
replaced the steering box.

They wanted me to pay for the labor but I was able to convince them that 
this would be a bit unreasonable. Since then I've had no problems with 
leaking. In case you are interested, I've had the following repairs up 
until now:

- - Leaking steering box (fixed under warranty).
- - A leak in the hydraulic system of the clutch. (this one got me stranded, 
fixed under warranty).
- - Malfunctioning doorlock. (fixed)

Not too bad, I guess...
Peter van der Landen

- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Centre for Computers and Law, L7-60, Erasmus University, Rotterdam, Holland
     Tel 31-10-4082187 (home 2331650) Fax 31-10-4532920 (home 2331215)
- -------------------- E-mail Landen@cir.frg.eur.nl ---------------------------
Peter van der Landen

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Centre for Computers and Law, L7-60, Erasmus University, Rotterdam, Holland
     Tel 31-10-4082187 (home 2331650) Fax 31-10-4082920 (home 2331215)
-------------------- E-mail Landen@cir.frg.eur.nl ---------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Oct 94 09:03:26 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: ROAV Mid-Atlantic Rally

In message <941019012243_75126.1123_FHD112-5@CompuServe.COM> Keith Steele 
writes:
> acceptable shape.  The problem was that the head gasket was burned through (1
> inch section was entirely missing) at the narrowest point between #1 and 2
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> 75126.1123@compuserve.com
> 72' Series III 88 since new 

Keith,

I assume you will be checking both the head and block for warpage.  Also look at
the metal at the edge of head stud, & bolt holes.  If it has pulled up at all, 
you will not get a proper gasket seal.  If you have this problem (common from 
over torquing), you can make a short counter sink at the edge of the hole.

Also, clean off the surfaces and inspect for possible cracks.  Something was not
right to have caused a head gasket to fail.

After you get on the road, when you retorque the head, be sure to losen the head
bolt slightly before retorquing it.  Otherwise you will get a false reading.

Good luck & glad your LR got you home.

TeriAnn Wakeman        Large format photographers look at the world
twakeman@apple.com     upside down and backwards     
LINK: TWAKEMAN              
408-974-2344                         TR3A - TS75519L, 
                       MGBGT - GHD4U149572G, Land Rover 109 - 164000561

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Oct 1994 09:38:49 -0700
From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: questions about being shafted...

Ray Harder writes:

>Lulu is sick again.
<snippy>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 37 lines)]
>the gearing.
<snip-snop>

It could be lots of things but sounds to me like the trouble is in the diff 
and don't delay in repairing it; it will get a lot more expensive.  Should 
take it apart in any case to see what it really is and let us all know.  I 
recently had a diff fail due to shearing off of all the crown wheel bolts!  
Yours could be doing that and you could stop it before they all go. [In my 
case I was rather lucky:  Although one bit blew through the case and so will 
have to be welded, remarkably, the gears are all undamaged.] Sounds more 
likely, though that it is in one or more of the gears...

Yes, replace both axle shafts (even if the trouble is in the diff, most 
likely they've been under undue strain and they're cheap to replace) and 
make very sure you only get the genuine ones. The reason this is so 
important, I found out the hard way, is that non-genuine ones have the nasty 
habit of fraying when they break and, in so doing, cause the carrier 
bearings to freeze up and then spin in their races. As a result of this 
lesson, I have an otherwise dandy diff which needs to be rebuilt one of 
these days (no rush, as I have a supply of spare diffs).  

And, yes, it is necessary to remove the differential "pumkin."  It's no big 
deal, really.  Now, if you had a Salisbury axle, removing the diff is 
somewhat of a big deal.  Speaking of which, if the worst is the case 
(lunched diff) you could do worse than, as TerriAnn suggests, fitting a 
Salisbury axle.  They're damned expensive in the U.S. but I have seen them 
advertised very cheaply in LRO magazine, PRB Services comes particularly to 
mind but I believe there are several cheap suppliers.

Of course, if you have a spare diff (in your spare front axle) that would be 
the cheapest solution for now.  And, indeed, even if your trouble is not 
anything broken in the diff, replace it with that good spare (Yes the front 
and rear --assuming both are Rover-type axles--interchange.), as the "slop" 
will eventually lead to breakage.  If that sloppy diff is not broken, get it 
out while rebuilding it will be cheaper, with just new bearings, seals, and  
"set-up" labor, rather than a bunch of broken (expensive) gears.

Keep us posted on your trouble-shooting.  Thanks.
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
[ Granville Pool (Redwood Valley, CA) Appraiser, R/W Agent, LR aficionado ]
[ e-mail: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net ** Ph:(707)485-7220 H,(707)463-4265 W ]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Oct 94 13:42:58 EDT
From: sat@eng.tridom.com (Stephen Thomas)
Subject: Flashing Rover Update

Gentle Readers:

Just in case any of you were losing sleep ;^) , my Disco now 
flashes its parking lights appropriately. A new relay did the trick.

This thread got me thinking a little, though. Perhaps there's an
opportunity for those of you who own real (old) Land Rovers to
help out those of us just starting out. There are lots of little,
semi-clever things that a Discovery does to make things more
convenient for its owner. We know how these features work as
long as the vehicle's under warranty. What we don't know is
how they'll work the day after the warranty expires. Thus your
opportunity. Here are several of these features, and a description
of how they work now. Other Disco owners should feel free to
chime in. (In addition, if you have any clues as to *why* the
Disco does some of these things, please enlighten us.)

Parking Lights and Alarm, during warranty:

  When the alarm is armed (via locking the driver's door or
  using the remote), the parking lights flash three times.

  When the alarm is disarmed, the lights flash once.

Parking Lights and Alarm, after warranty:

   ???

Dome Light, during warranty:

   The interior lights do not immediately extinguish once all
   doors are closed. Instead, they remain lit until the ignition
   is started, or until a small amount of time has elapsed.
   Furthermore, they are not turned off "all at once"; rather,
   they are gradually dimmed.

Dome Light, after warranty:

   ???

Turn Signal and Trailer, during warranty:

   In addition to the standard turn signal indicator on the
   dash, there's an auxiliary indicator for a towed trailer's
   turn signals. When no trailer is attached, this auxiliary
   indicator flashes exactly one time when you activate the
   turn signal. If a trailer is attached, the auxiliary 
   indicator continues to flash in sync with the standard
   indicator.

Turn Signal and Trailer, after warranty:

   ???

Turn Signal and Dead Lamps, during warranty:

   If you activate the turn signal and one of the turn signal
   lamps has burned out (or has a poor connection), the turn
   signal indicator flashes at twice its normal rate.

Turn Signal and Dead Lamps, after warranty:

   ???

Door Locks and Alarm, during warranty:

   If you attempt to arm the alarm and one of the doors is
   still ajar, the alarm delays its arming for 30 seconds.
   If the door remains ajar, the alarm arms for all other
   doors. (And, incidently, does not flash the parking
   lights.)
   
   Here's the fun part: If, however, you close the offending
   door before 30 seconds pass, the alarm (1) immediately
   unlocks *all* doors, (2) waits 30 more seconds, (3) locks
   all doors, and (4) arms the alarm as normal. (This can
   easily convince you of the existance of poltergeists; I
   speak from experience here.)

Door Locks and Alarm, after warranty:

   ???

Well, that's probably enough frivolous bandwidth for now. I'm
sure other Disco owners can add to the list.

Waiting expectantly for any followups....

_____________________________________________
Stephen Thomas   AT&T Tridom   (404-514-3522)
email: sat@eng.tridom.com, attmail!tridom!sat

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Oct 94 13:17:13 MDT
From: rhcaldw@nma.mnet.uswest.com ( ROY CALDWELL )
Subject: Final Assy

People,

I have several questions for the collective wisdom
on the net:

In the final stages of assy. for my 69 engine and the
new cam chainwheel does not have the same P markings
as the original.  Did a stare and compare and think I
have it correctly positioned.  When I trial fitted the 
wheel for the cam end-float it is so tight that I could
not get it to butt up against the cam shaft thrust plate.
The way it is now there is .003 mm out on the end-float spec.
Can the thrust plate be shimmed or can a thicker thrust
plate be had or is the wheel not pressed on enough.  It
is really hard to tell.  What to do gang?  Or can I run
safely with the chainwheel cam shaft end-float that far off?

Any help would be nice.  This thing is getting close and
it has been too long without a running Rover.

Roy - Rovers in the Rockies - What end-float measurement?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Oct 1994 15:14:29 -0400
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: Disco Post Warrranty Post Mortem

Stephen asks:

none
Perhaps there's an opportunity for those of you who own real (old) Land Rovers 
to help out those of us just starting out. There are lots of little,
semi-clever things that a Discovery does to make things more
convenient for its owner. We know how these features work as
long as the vehicle's under warranty. What we don't know is
how they'll work the day after the warranty expires. 

Parking Lights and Alarm, during warranty:

  When the alarm is armed (via locking the driver's door or
  using the remote), the parking lights flash three times.

  When the alarm is disarmed, the lights flash once.

Parking Lights and Alarm, after warranty:
none

Alarm will short out = No Problem
   

none
Dome Light, during warranty:

   The interior lights do not immediately extinguish once all
   doors are closed. Instead, they remain lit until the ignition
   is started, or until a small amount of time has elapsed.
   Furthermore, they are not turned off "all at once"; rather,
   they are gradually dimmed.

Dome Light, after warranty:
none

Dome light will burn out = No Problem
  

none
Turn Signal and Trailer, during warranty:

   In addition to the standard turn signal indicator on the
   dash, there's an auxiliary indicator for a towed trailer's
   turn signals. When no trailer is attached, this auxiliary
   indicator flashes exactly one time when you activate the
   turn signal. If a trailer is attached, the auxiliary 
   indicator continues to flash in sync with the standard
   indicator.

Turn Signal and Trailer, after warranty:
none

Axle will separate from trailer during a downhill run, rolling both Disco & 
trailer = No more Problem

none
Turn Signal and Dead Lamps, during warranty:

   If you activate the turn signal and one of the turn signal
   lamps has burned out (or has a poor connection), the turn
   signal indicator flashes at twice its normal rate.

Turn Signal and Dead Lamps, after warranty:
none

Dead Lamp will burn out, backup lights will light when you use the 
directionals, and confused semi driver will rear end you = No more Problem

none
Door Locks and Alarm, during warranty:

   If you attempt to arm the alarm and one of the doors is
   still ajar, the alarm delays its arming for 30 seconds.
   If the door remains ajar, the alarm arms for all other
   doors. (And, incidently, does not flash the parking
   lights.)
   
   Here's the fun part: If, however, you close the offending
   door before 30 seconds pass, the alarm (1) immediately
   unlocks *all* doors, (2) waits 30 more seconds, (3) locks
   all doors, and (4) arms the alarm as normal. (This can
   easily convince you of the existance of poltergeists; I
   speak from experience here.)

Door Locks and Alarm, after warranty:
none

Car thief with tow truck will set off alarm.  Annoyed neighbors will assist 
car thief with vehicle removal = No more Problem

A lotta Baloney on Wry from maloney

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 

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