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From: Mr Ian Stuart <IAN@lab0.vet.edinburgh.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 1994 09:34:36 +0000
Subject: Lix Toll

I don't know how if LRW changes it's advertising for international 
subscribers, so I don't know how many of you will have seen an advert for 
Lix Toll garage (Yes, Lix is significant -- it was the site of an old 
Roman toll booth)

I went up there to have a look around. The garage used to look after my 
fathers motor boats when we taught water-skiing on a near-by loch, 10+ 
years ago (when we lived up that way)

[That just reminds me of my *first* landrover trip -- Series I; 20 mph and 
the steering gearing jumps out. The guy slows down, shakes the 'wheel 
violently from side-to-side and it jumps back in.]

The place has expanded now -- but it still has it's junk-jard out the back 
:-)
The garage has 2 interesting rovers: A 109 Cuthbertson (reg: 8573 SP) and 
and Bog Rover - the one with 3' wheels (reg hbw 956 D), plus many scrapped 
machines (of all ages and models)

There are also 2 scrap Scammel Explorers, but they've been lying so long 
that there are 7' trees growning through the chassis.

As well as Land Rovers, the place seems to service UMMs as well :(

If anyone is in the area, it will well worth visiting.

mesmerising....

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
WWW sites: Work -- http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/       
           Play -- http://tardis.ed.ac.uk/~ian/
#======================================================================#
I'm not a computing nerd, I'm a computing geek.   |Land Rover owners do
Geeks are much higher up the evolutionary chain.  |  it in the mud.

------------------------------

Date: 18 Oct 94 05:12:38 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: 89RR Tires?

David K. Hudson <dkh@howdy.wustl.edu> wrote:

> ..<...snip...snip...>     Oh, she only needs two.  Can you use slightly
> different sizes on front and rear?

Oh, no, no, don't do that! Your central diff will be "notsohappy", as
Steve Denis might say...

>  I struck gold on my last net query.  Someone recommended a BMW replacement
> for a RR coolant level sensor.  The BMW part 61-31-1-375-715 at $22.48 was
> identical to the Rover part PRC5077 at $55 (from same dealer in STL).

Thanks for the tip, it's just the part I need right now!

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: ccray@lulu.cc.missouri.edu
Subject: Re: Allison Ignition
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 1994 08:31:40 -0500 (CDT)

>Greg writes:     
none
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>ignition system for the Land Rover 2.25l petrol is 700-0231. They have told
>me this will work with the Lucas and Ducellier distributors. 

I have had an Allison electronic ignition unit on my MGB for
about 10 years now.  My 1980 MGB had a lucas electronic
ignition and I replaced it with the Allison unit.  Gas mileage
and improved running were not the issues -- a reliable unit was.
So, here is my advice:  Keep your receipts.  I have had to send
the Allison unit back three times (with the receipts).  They have
fixed it each time under the lifetime guarantee.  The unit just
fails after a couple of years.  You will be driving down the
road -- loss of power for a split second -- then all ok. 
Gets worse -- longer and more frequent.
Then total failure.  There is a power transistor that can't
take the heat (what I understand in talking with mechanics).
I have had a couple of weeks of warning
in all cases.  If I remember the initial installation correctly,
you replace the points with an electronic sensor, so on a Land
Rover you could put back in the old innards while the electronic
unit was being rebuilt....

I don't know what I will do next time since (I think) Crane bought
out Allison and who knows what their guarantee policy is.

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Ray Harder                 Columbia, Missouri   314-882-2000
 
         "...you are what you drive..."
 
- 61 SIIa 88 (LULU, aka Experimental)  - 66 SIIa 88 (rebuild project)
- 69 SIIa 88 (parts)                   - 87 RR      (wife's)
- 80 MGB                               - xx
---------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: 18 Oct 94 10:21:23 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: RR tires: 235/85R16 conversion

As the list seems to be into tires at the moment I'd like to post
a related query:

For specific offroad purposes as well as 'looks' I want to put
BFG radial Mud-Terrain T/A 235/85 R 16 tires on a 87'RR. They've  
become a favorite fad in Europe lately, also on Defenders; maybe 
people over here have become a bit bored with the ubiquitous 
Michelins. I know the conversion can be done, I've seen plenty of 
them at rallies, and the tires fit perfectly on regular RR rims. 
Of course the body needs to get a 'lift', otherwise the tires will 
eat parts of the wheel arches and the front spoiler when doing 
a tight turn. 
Does anyone have experience with this and tell me, in terms of inches, 
how much extra clearance I would need _without_ having to resort to
expensive conversion kits which include longer shocks, propshafts
etc.? I already intend to fit front diesel springs from the Tdi-RR,
and rear RR springs with british police specs (parts # NRC4304). 
Apparently the british police RR's have extra-long & strong rear
springs because of the tons of police- and highway patrol related
garbage they constantly haul along with them in the back...
I *presume* these springs will already give an extra clearance of
about 2 inches over the stock RR springs. Question is, should I
add extra distances pieces for additional lift, and where would the
advisable limit be before risking to rip off a shock or a propshaft (:-[] ??
Like I said, I want to do it on the cheapo using mostly regular 
Rover stock, none of those several-thousand-dollar monster-truck
conversion kits...  Any ideas?

Rgds,

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Oct 1994 07:48:25 -0700
From: Mike Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

Dave asks,

	I'm also looking for tires, but for my wife's 89RR.  The only place I've
found here in St. Louis, MO with the stock 205R16 MX+S244 wants $175 each
installed.  Other similar size tires are about $110.  Any net wisdom/
experience on the subject?   Oh, she only needs two.  Can you use slightly
different sizes on front and rear?

ANSWER
	Your wifes 89 RR has a viscous coupling for the center differential
which senses slipping and locks up accordingly, so don't use two different
sized tires front to rear, or side to side for that matter. I just bought
a set of four XMS244 Michelins from the TIRE BARN for my wifes 90 RR. They 
advertise in CAR and DRIVER and I'm sure ROAD and TRACK as well. The price 
I was quoted over the phone was $106 per tire and they have them in stock.
I have a little deal with my local dealer here in Portland, so I use their
wholesale account # and get them from TIRE BARN for $94 per plus shipping
which is pretty reasonable. Their number is 1 800 428 8355. 
						RGDS
						Mike Fredette
						94 DEFENDER 90
						90 RANGE ROVER
						Portland, Oregon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Oct 94 10:33:21 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:

Further to my thoughts on RR tires yesterday, I forgot to suggest buying the
tires from the dealer for $125 (not a bad price actually compared with other
decent tires) and having a tire shop balance and instal them (if the dealer
insists on charging 1/2 hour's labor).

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Oct 94 10:42:55 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Tires for 89RR

I can second the motion for not using different sized tires front and rear -- 
don't do it!

Actually the Michelin XMS244's are excellent tires and probably better than
any substitutes you can get at the same size. Every time I have talked to
tire people (eg when getting punctures fixed etc) they have been highly
impressed with these tires, which have reinforced sidewalls and a better
tread pattern than most all-terrain tires. 

My advice is -- now that they are available at decent prices -- accept
no substitutes!!

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Oct 94 11:38:19 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  RR tires: 235/85R16 conversion

Since I have no experience with this, I will give it an anitial stab!!
The 235's should be about 2 inches larger in diameter than the stock 205's,
so they'll be about 1 inch more in radius. The only place I would think
any problem might occur is on the front when the wheels are turned and 
the springs compressed. I would try driving diagonally into a bank or
other obstacle on full lock so the spring on one side gets to maximum
compression (with the stock tires on) and measure how much clearance there
is to spare between the tire and fender. That will govern how much larger
a radius you can use without modifications.

The taller springs will only help on flat surfaces -- when they are fully
compressed (rock crawling etc) the clearance will be no better than with 
stock springs unless you use new bump stops or some other way of limiting
upward wheel travel.

As you imply, downward wheel travel is limited by the shocks.

I will be interested to see what others with more experience in this
type of modification have to say.

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Oct 94 11:44:36 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  RR tires: 235/85R16 conversion

Another option to look into is the "Old Man Emu" lift kit made in Australia
for Range Rovers, with longer coils and other bits & pieces I believe. I think
you can get it in the US through such folks as Downey Off-Road or
maybe British Pacific. I think the effective lift is about 2 inches.

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Oct 1994 11:59:27 -0700
From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Tyres and Wheels

dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)writes:

>>I don't think there is any particular magic in rim diameter; it            
   >> is just one of several factors to consider.  [my original comment, 
snipped]

>    There is.  A North American 88 will most likely have 15" rims.
>    Besides using them as door stops and getting 16" rims, the fact to
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>    not really recommended.  Rim diameter does matter.  15" rims suck
>    for all sorts of reasons from fuel economy, top speed, to how good
>    a mud tire you can toss onto it.

Well, Dixon, that all jibes with what I said, except that I stand behind my 
statement that a very workable solution with 15" rims is the 33x9.50x15 BFG 
Mud-Terrain.  I talked to a couple of Land-Rover owners at the All-British 
Field Leak in Portland who were running these tyres who were very happy with 
the results.  One of them (well, a pair of them), Gord'n and Stephanie 
Perrott, were running them on a 109 which, of course, had had 16" wheels.  
And the Perrotts have probably tried just about everything (lord knows 
they've had enough Land-Rovers to try them on).  Remember, the 15" rims are 
a wider 6", too.

>> Bottom line:  You can usually make the rim diameter you have work for you.  
<snip-snap>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>    do not seem to withstand some of the punishment from rock, sharp
>    objects et cetera that can be encountered.  <snippus>

I grant that the selection is broader for the 16" wheel; my point is that it 
is cheaper to fit the BFGs, if you are already stuck with 15" rims, than to 
purchase 16s and then fit something else.  And you won't get embarrassed by 
their performance.  Sure, it's a compromise, but a decent one.

Regarding your statement about radials being more delicate: Sure, to a 
degree, that's true.  In the early days of off-road radials (in the U.S.) 
that was a big point of contention.  Now, though, most of the off-road 
radials are tougher.  Even in the old days, some of the Michelins were hella 
tuff.  The ultimate tough expedition tyre is probably the Michelin XZY.  Not 
much of an off-road tread, but very tough and wear for ever (12 ply, as I 
recall).  Even XCLs are, I understand, pretty tough customers, with 
something like a 10-ply rating.  The tyre of choice for the Camel trophy, 
which certainly puts tyres to the test.  I have off-roaded on radials for 
years, including going in a lot of rocky country, with very satisfactory 
results.  As a matter of fact, I recently noticed that one of my 10.50x15 
Norseman Radials had a cronic slow leak.  I dismounted it to have a look, 
thinking that it might have a cut on the inside sidewall.  What I found was 
that the rim had gotten bent, allowing the bead seal to leak.  There was 
apparently no damage to the tyre!!

One of my more recently purchased Land-Rovers, a 1973 Series III 88", came 
to me with a new set of SuperSwamper Three-Stage-Lug (TSL) tyres, in size 
29x8.50x15. These are, of course, bias ply and have a very gnarly tread 
(non-directional) which works very well in the mud.  They are surprisingly 
not all that noisy, certainly no-where-near as noisy as SATs, but the ride 
is rather, well, notchy. My biggest gripe with them is that they are not 
nearly tall enough for my taste. I wouldn't mind trying a set of these skins 
if they made a 32 or 33 x 8.50x15 or, better yet, a 7.50x15 which is that 
tall.  And preferrably radial.

I have a set of the wider (5.5") 109-type 16" wheels and do intend to 
eventually fit them with a set of serious 7.50x16 mud skins, radial, of 
course.  XCLs would be my first choice but, due to cost, will probably not 
happen.  Several of the common Mud-Terrain radials (though the fact is not 
widely publicised) are available in size 7.50x16, for instance Firestone 
Steel-Tex ATX 23-degree [frustrating not to be able to use the high-order 
character set's degree symbol, but my understanding is that if I do, it will 
not go across the net].  There are several others but I can't remember which 
ones, off the top of my head.

Hey, Dixon, maybe you and I could get a contract to be the east coast and 
west coast testers for a variety of mud tyres on Land-Rovers...

BTW, I did not originally intend to focus on mud tyres as the only choice 
for Land-Rovers.  And, even if you do encounter a fair amount of mud, I wish 
to make the point that wider, somewhat less aggressive tyres can be a rather 
more responsible tread-lightly statement.

Sorry if I got carried away but, hey, the list has been so quiet.  Thanks 
for the stimulating discussion.  And let's hear from all you other tie-ehr 
goo-roos out there...
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
[ Granville Pool (Redwood Valley, CA) Appraiser, R/W Agent, LR aficionado ]
[ e-mail: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net ** Ph:(707)485-7220 H,(707)463-4265 W ]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Oct 1994 16:04:24 -0400
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman C. Wing)
Subject: Looking for a 109

        Hi, I'm new to the list and about to embark(hopefully) on a major
Rover project. I'm planning on doing a full ground up restoration with new
chassis, drivetrain, etc. What I need at this point is a rough but fairly
complete car to use as a starting point. Specifically, I'm looking for a
1970 or earlier Series II or IIA 109 hardtop. I need a good body, but the
chassis and engine can be junk as far as I'm concerned. I realize that it
would probably be easier in the long run to start with something more
solid, but this is a long term project. If anyone happens to have or know
of a Rover fitting this description, please let me know. Thanks.

                                                BCW

------------------------------

From: Morgan Hannaford <morgan@nature.Berkeley.EDU>
Subject: LROI ??????
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 1994 13:07:20 -0700 (PDT)

Has anyone here on the left coast received the October issue
of LRO magazine yet?  Should I assault the postman?

Morgan Hannaford
Berkeley, CA

------------------------------

From: ccray@lulu.cc.missouri.edu
Subject: questions about being shafted...
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 1994 15:18:12 -0500 (CDT)

Lulu is sick again.

With all the talk on the network about broken springs and
frozen spring shakle bushings, I thought I was in for
a spring job this fall:
 ...Popping noises when going around corners or over large
    bumps under power...
But it got worse with interesting symptoms:
 ...Once when I went up a steep grade from a standing stop
    it started popping like a rachet on a socket drive and
    I wasn't moving anywhere...
 ...It kept getting worse and worse.
 ...No noises as above when 4wd engaged (but hard on car
    and driver on dry pavement)...
So now I think I have a broken rear axle shaft. 
The stories I had heard in the past about broken rear
axle shafts made me think you were stopped cold with a
racing engine and no forward movement.
I visualize this one as snapped at a angle -- a lot of time
it will transfer light load.  But it slips under heavy load.
So, question to the netters (having never done a broken
rear axle shaft) is the repair job just:
1.  a matter of taking off the bolts to the gizmo that mates
    the shaft to the rear hub (don't even need to take off
    the wheels).
2.  pulling out the axle half shaft.
3.  taking off the "pumpkin" and fishing out the broken
    piece.
4.  cleaning out all metal bits from the axle oil-sump.
5.  installation is the reverse of above.

Is there anyway to avoid taking off the "pumpkin" to get
to the broken piece (any way to fish it out with say a
magnet or something)?  Do I really need to "replace the
other side as it is likely weak, too" as the parts
vendors advise.  Any other information would be
appreciated.

The other possibility is pinion shaft and crown wheel gear
damage but I am leaning towards the axle shaft.  From that
perspective, is the "pumpkin" (what is the proper name for
that carrier) interchange-able between the front and
rear axles on a SII 88?   I have a good front axle setting
around and my current rear axle has a lot of slop in
the gearing.

Hoping for some good advice so I can put my order in
for parts...
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Ray Harder                 Columbia, Missouri   314-882-2000
 
         "...you are what you drive..."
 
- 61 SIIa 88 (LULU, aka Experimental)  - 66 SIIa 88 (rebuild project)
- 69 SIIa 88 (parts)                   - 87 RR      (wife's)
- 80 MGB                               - xx
---------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: LROI ??????
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 94 13:42:12 PDT

Not yet......

russ
> Has anyone here on the left coast received the October issue
> of LRO magazine yet?  Should I assault the postman?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Morgan Hannaford
> Berkeley, CA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Oct 1994 18:52:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" <swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu>
Subject: Wanted

Wanted:
One Rover, II IIa III, 88 or 109, hardtop or pickup, preferably diesel, 
running not important as long as
is the engine is not seized, no major frame rust, interior required but
condition is not important.  Want to get in cheap (what am I saying, this 
thing is a british collectible) $500-$750 or trade small sailboat.  Tampa 
Bay area or beyond.  Will come pick up within reason.  Any info, 
suggestions, offers, etc. Call me or E-me (813)979-4732
swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu
Thanks in advance for anything...I just went to the All-british Show 
Tampa this weekend and now i've got it in my blood, gotta have a rover, 
there was only ONE there, and it was in about the condition that I just 
described (want). 
Steve Swiger

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Oct 94 17:13:34 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: questions about being shafted...

Ray,

Sounds to me like you probably have 2 unrelated problems.

1. The noises.  COuld be shackles, could be a crack in the frame.  Do a visual 
inspection.  Look for disentigrated bushings at the shackles.

2. Slipping under power but not under light load.  This sure sounds like clutch 
slipping to me.  If you are lucky, your clutch hydrolics are not returning 
properly and you can adjust the linkage.  Most likely you are dealing with a 
worn or oily clutch... happy transmission pulling.

When an axle breaks it breaks.  If it had broken, any driving you would have 
done on it would have probably destroyed teeth on the ring & pinion gears.

The break sounds like a big thunk and the car can seem to jerk.  If you are in 
two wheel drive its like you just shifted into neutral.  At that time you need 
to stop the car ASAP and do not move it untill the rear drive shaft and both 
axles are off the car.  This prevents the diff from turning.  If the break is at
the hub end your diff is probably fine.  If its at the diff end it probably 
tried to bite down on a broken part of the shaft and needs ring & pionion 
replaced.

Always replace both axles.  The breakage is usually caused by crystalization of 
the metal.  If one side is crystalized the other side is probably crystalized 
too.  I broke one axle towing a small shed up a hill.  Replaced it and broke the
other a couple of months later turning a corner on pavement.  Lost the diff that
time too.  I replaced them with used axles out of a parts car I had.  Broke 
another axle and diff on pavement turning a corner about a year later.  Both 
times the diff went it was the inside end of the axle that broke.

Moral to the story:  Axles crystalize over time.  Replace them both and replace 
them with new parts. If you are going on a major off road expidition to the 
middle of nowhere and have a new set of axles for spare, put them in before you 
go.  You can put the old ones in afterwards if you wish & save the new ones.  
Its better not to brake an axle then be in the middle of nowhere hoping it was 
the outside of the axle that broke as you are pulling them out.

 Get a salsbury rear end & you will never break axles.

When you break an axles you will need to pull both axles and the diff to make 
sure all the chips are out of the housing.  You do not want chips bouncing 
around in the housing eventually coming to rest betweem the ring & pinion gears.

  This is a good time to disassemble the axle breather and clean it up too.

TeriAnn Wakeman        Large format photographers look at the world
twakeman@apple.com     upside down and backwards     
LINK: TWAKEMAN              
408-974-2344                         TR3A - TS75519L, 
                       MGBGT - GHD4U149572G, Land Rover 109 - 164000561

------------------------------

Date: 18 Oct 94 21:22:44 EDT
From: Keith Steele <75126.1123@compuserve.com>
Subject: ROAV Mid-Atlantic Rally

The Good News
I won't give a description of the event - others have done that very well
already.  I would like to say that it was the most fun I have had in a long time
and am certainly planning to attend next year.  Meeting in person many of the
people I have talked to on the net was a highlight.  I would especially like to
thank Sandy Grice for all the time and energy he put into making the event
memorable.   Sandy was not pleased with the Sunday lunch and dinner but I have
to admit it was far better than what I was likely to cook up on the camp stove.
Other reports to the contrary, Sandy's printed directions to the Sunday Lunch
raised obfustication to an art form (its either that or admit that I am
"geographically challenged" which I'm certainly not prepared to do).  His claim
that the instructions were "spot on" could only have been made by a former cost
estimator for Lucas Aerospace.

The Bad News
On the last day of the event the Rover's  (72 S III 88) engine developed a
serious loss of power and started making new noises.  With a lot of freely given
and greatly appreciated help from Bruce McEnaney (owner of British Rovers in
Vermont who attended the event in a Rover Sedan) and  Bill Maloney, it was
determined that the Rover would probabally make it the 500 miles home on it's
own power albeit slower than normal.  Burned valves were suspected in # 1 and 2
cylinders.  As it turned out the Rover sustained it's 22 year streak of always
making it home under it's own power, although, I must admit fully loaded tractor
trailers blew my doors off on the uphills.  

After arriving at home and pulling the head I discovered that the valves were in
acceptable shape.  The problem was that the head gasket was burned through (1
inch section was entirely missing) at the narrowest point between #1 and 2
cylinders allowing the gasses to go back and forth freely between the cylinders.
I will send the head to British Rovers for repair and a valve job.  Hopefully
the Rover will be back on the road in two or three weeks.

Keith Steele
75126.1123@compuserve.com
72' Series III 88 since new 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Oct 1994 21:14:00 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Series III 88" for sale

>For Sale:      1973 Series III Land Rover
none

snip

>               Sound proof foam under hood an floor mats (runs quieter).

What did you use for this?  I would love to do something similar.

>               Padded tire on hood with seat belts for passanger.

And where did you get this!!???!!   This I would *love* to have!  

Thanks in advance!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                               

------------------------------

Subject: Wanted
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 94 23:29:42 -0500

"Steven Swiger (LIS)" <swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu> writes:

> One Rover, II IIa III, 88 or 109, hardtop or pickup, preferably diesel, 
> running not important as long as
> is the engine is not seized, no major frame rust, interior required but
                               ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
                               |||||||||||||||||||

> condition is not important.  Want to get in cheap (what am I saying, this 
> thing is a british collectible) $500-$750 or trade small sailboat.  Tampa 
                                  ^^^^^^^^^
                                  |||||||||

        Best of luck.  A good solid frame under a Land Rover is worth at
        least that, let alone the rest of the vehicle.  You will also find
        that diesels are rather hard to find over here.  They were never
        that popular.

        Rgds,

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry,            |    Ottawa Valley Land Rovers
Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
(OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4

------------------------------

Subject: LROI ??????
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 94 23:27:39 -0500

Morgan Hannaford <morgan@nature.Berkeley.EDU> writes:

> Has anyone here on the left coast received the October issue
> of LRO magazine yet?  Should I assault the postman?

        Two weeks ago on the right coast.  Phone or send a nasty
        note to LRO.  Other I know who have done this managed to
        get another month added to their subscription.

        Rgds,

        Dixon

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry,            |    Ottawa Valley Land Rovers
Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
(OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4

------------------------------

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