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Date: Mon, 17 Oct 1994 12:16:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Oil consumption

>than 1 quart per 5,000 miles and that this limit is an EPA requirement.  Does
>anyone know of any EPA or other federal regulation (or statute) regarding
>allowable oil consumption?

If there is a federal regulation regarding OIL CONSUMPTION, or leaking
90w, then there are a lot of us outlaw drippin renegades putting around
in those "snot a jeeps".
I hope Mr Al Gore isn't out there reading this cause he knows where I live.

It's alright Sally Anne, he got what he deserves. He's been leavin a
trail o gear oil for nigh onta a year now. Somebody hadda stop him, I
hear they shot him right in the ear as he dripped his way into pep boys
to stash up on Castrol.
Farewell my friends
Jon

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Oct 1994 11:35:13 -0600
From: hiner@mail.utexas.edu (Greg Hiner)
Subject: Crane/Allison XR700 Points Conversion

For those who might be curious the part number for the XR700 electronic
ignition system for the Land Rover 2.25l petrol is 700-0231. They have told
me this will work with the Lucas and Ducellier distributors. I am also
supposed to be getting their full catalogue so I will pass on any more news
I can get from that.

This unit replaces the points/condensor in the distributor with an
optical/electrical trigger to fire the coil.

Crane's technical assistanc can be reached at USA 904-258-6174 or fax
904-258-6167

I believe these units sell for around $100 to $120.

There is also a similar looking unit in the Whitney catalogue for about $20
less. Their unit will also I believe work with the Ducellier distributor. I
think John R. Benham <BENHAM@WFOCLAN.USBM.GOV> has this unit working in his
Rover (John correct me if I'm wrong).

I know that Lumenition makes something that is similar and I think more
expensive then the Crane unit.

Greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Oct 94 09:52:20 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: My torrid love affair

Rodney,
Your not the first on the list to purchase a previously unloved fixer upper that
has been sitting around.  My series II 109 pickup was sitting for a couple of 
years, crippled up fron being driven without oil in the rear diff and transfer 
case; missing a lot of parts; many of the existing parts ready to fall off and 
badly worn.  That was in '78.  I still own her and over the years she has become
so much a part of me I can't imagine not having the Green Rover around.

Dixon towed his first Land Rover home from where it was sitting for several 
years.  He spent a lot of time rebuilding it and finally got it going about a 
year and a half ago.

Its how many of us got started with Land Rovers.

However, it sounds like you do have a full blown frome off restoration project 
on you hands.  I suggest that you break it down into many small doable projects 
and don't look at the whole job.  The first thing you might want to do is go 
over it with a camera taking as many close up detail photos as you can, then 
follow it up sith sketches & notes.  Next take the body off the frame so you can
deal with the frame rust, bulkhead and running gear.  Pulling the body off is 
not as big a deal as it may seem, and will allow you to fix it right.  I have 
been working on a frame off restoration on my TR3 for almost 5 years now. The 
body is on the frame, the doors & front wings are on, the suspension and 
steering are all renewed, the engine and transmission are ready to go in.  It 
took a long time and a LOT of work, but I will soon have a new TR3 on the road 
where a badly rusted worn out fugitive from a wrecking yard once existed.

Take care & good luck on your new series I

TeriAnn Wakeman        Large format photographers look at the world
twakeman@apple.com     upside down and backwards     
LINK: TWAKEMAN              
408-974-2344                         TR3A - TS75519L, 
                       MGBGT - GHD4U149572G, Land Rover 109 - 164000561

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Oct 1994 10:41:56 -0700
From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Tyre sizes

Rob Meridith writes:

>I am getting confused, can someone give a definitive explanation of tyre
>sizes that can be understood by a dunce like me.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>tyres you can put on 15 & 16 inch rims. Does it make a difference which
>size rims you run, I've got a 88" S111 1973.

I don't pretend to be able to offer the "definitive" explanation, but do 
have a few comments to offer.  I don't think there is any particular magic 
in rim diameter; it is just one of several factors to consider.  I think 
that you should start with a serious look at your driving needs and decide 
which ones you want most to optimize.  Any tyre you select will be a 
compromise unless it is very single-purpose, such as (maybe) a studded snow 
tyre or an off-road only tyre such as Goodyear Terra, Avon Treadlite, or 
Babcross/Maxicross trials tyre. 

When you consider what purpose is most important in your choice of tyre, 
that doesn't necessarily mean the use that involves the most miles.  For a 
Land-Rover, even if you drive on the road much more than off-road, you may 
well want a serious off-road tyre for when you do get off-road.  After all, 
you are driving a serious off-road machine and may well want to compromise 
on-road performance for off-road performance, as you did when you selected 
the vehicle in the first place.

So, what's most important?  Let's assume, for the sake of discussion, that 
you want a serious off-road tyre, say for mud:  well, you want something 
really aggressive which will clean.  I won't delve into the controversy of 
directional v. non-directional but, generally, for mud, you want the tyre to 
be relatively tall and narrow.  For this application, it is easier to fill 
the bill with a 16" rim, as it starts out taller.  Even though not all mud 
tyres are still available in 7.50x16, many are.  This is a good choice of 
size for mud for a Land-Rover and is very popular with many owners.  This 
size is pushing it for power, though.  As low-geared as Land-Rovers are, 
they are still gutless.  If you have a good, strong engine and tight 
drivetrain, you'll be alright with this size; if your Rover is tired, you'll 
probably not be too happy.  7.00x16 works better with the standard gearing 
and power but is getting kind of hard to find (at least in the U.S.), 
especially in radials (which I strongly prefer), an exception being the 
wonderful Michelin XCL which is available in all sorts of 16" sizes, but not 
in the U.S.  A friend of mine in the U.S. just bought six new XCLs for his 
Camel Trophy 110 and had to pay about $200 apiece for them.  I don't know if 
I think they are that wonderful.  

>From your e-mail address and spelling of "tyre" I gather that you are 
probably in the U.K.  You can presumably get the XCLs more readily.  I note, 
from reading LRO, that SATs (Firestone Super All-Tractions) are very popular 
in the U.K., probably because it tends to get a lot more mud than most 
places in the U.S.  You rarely see them here in the U.S. anymore, although, 
as far as I know, they are still available.  I have had them and don't like 
them.  They are too single-purpose (as in no good backing up), too noisy, 
and too rough-riding (nylon bias casing).  Admitedly, XCLs are also 
directional, noisy, and rough riding, just (I understand) not as much so.  
Oops, I said I'd stay out of the directional/non-directional controversy--I 
lied.

The nominal diameter of a 7.50x16 is about 32" or so, maybe 33".  The 
"modern" replacement for that size is the 235/85x16 which is about 9" wide, 
or so, and about the same overall diameter as the 7.50 (radial).  Another 
consideration is that the actual static (loaded) rolling radius of the tyre 
will be substantially less than half of its "nominal" diameter and the 
static radius of a radial will be considerably less than that of a bias-ply 
tyre of the same nominal diameter. All this affects your gearing.  If you go 
with the 7.50x16, you should (at a minimum) be using the 5.5x16 wheel from a 
109, as the 16" wheels from an 88 are only 5" wide (at least the older ones 
sold in the U.S.), OK for a 7.00x16, though.  For the 235/85x16, you should, 
I feel, be using at least a 6" wide wheel, preferably wider.  One-ton 
Land-Rover and (I think) U.S. Defender 110, as well as Defender 130 wheels 
are 6.5" wide and plenty strong for hard off-road use.  They are, however, 
very difficult and/or expensive to come by (at least in the U.S.; maybe not 
so in U.K.).  Rovers North sells them in the U.S. but, boy, are they pricey! 
 Steel Discovery wheels are, I believe, 7" wide and inexpensively available 
in U.K.  I don't know how strong they are; I do think they look great.  

If you have 15" wheels (as original on the Series III 88 in the U.S.), they 
will be 6" wide.  There is a mud tyre which will work rather well:  It is 
the B.F. Goodrich Mud-Terrain, which is available in size 33x9.50x15, which 
is pretty comparable to the 235/85x16 but fits the 15" wheels.  The only 
other choice available that I can think of, which would be close, is the 
Buckshot Radial Mudder, advertised in some of the American four-wheel drive 
magazines.  As I recall, it is 32" in nominal diameter (probably only 
available in the U.S.).

If you are looking more for a summer off-roading tyre or one which will 
balance the summer and winter considerations, the 30x9.50x15 should be a 
reasonable choice and is available in mud-terrain, all-terrain, and all 
sorts of other patterns.  This size gives you a little increase in clearance 
over the original equipment tyres, an improvement in flotation, reasonable 
gearing, and is not so wide as to totally ruin mud and snow performance.  

I have tried all sorts of types and sizes of tyres and am currently running 
31x10.50x15 Norseman Treadlock Radials on 8x15 wheels.  In general, I am 
pretty happy with these, as they ride well, are not too noisy, and work 
reasonably well under a full variety of summer and winter conditions.  One 
of my strong considerations is fording rivers and I find that these wider 
tyres do that much better than the narrow ones (at least the narrow ones 
that I have tried).  8x15 wheels for a Land-Rover are kind of hard to come 
by in the U.S. but (I notice from ads in LRO) readily available in the U.K. 
(if you don't mind the "white spoke" look--mine are actually on Land-Rover 
centers).

Bottom line:  You can usually make the rim diameter you have work for you.  
The right height, width, carcass construction, load capacity, and tread 
pattern for your intended use are the important considerations.  If you 
would care to share how you intend to use your Land-Rover, clarify where you 
live, and what diameter and rim width you now have to work with, I am sure 
that any number of LRO-netters can offer you more advice than you ever would 
have hoped for!

Have fun!  Granville
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
[ Granville Pool (Redwood Valley, CA) Appraiser, R/W Agent, LR aficionado ]
[ e-mail: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net ** Ph:(707)485-7220 H,(707)463-4265 W ]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Oct 94 15:49:11 -0400
From: berg@acf2.NYU.EDU (Jeff Berg)
Subject: Re: Defender Success Etc.

>6.) There will be NO Defender 90's imported after the '95 model year. The
>reason given was safety, specifically the fact that there are no airbags on
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>there is some sort of GVWR exception threshold (such as for emmissions
>etc.). Maybe in this case it's 8,000 or 10,000 lbs.

LRNA reps at the Mid-Atlantic Rally claimed that this would happen after
the 1997 model year.  They sited safety restrictions as the reason.

Incidentally, the reason given for no diesels in the U.S.was that the
engine wouldn't pass California Emissions Standards, and that Land-Rover
can't afford to import a 49 state care.  When asked when we might see a
U.S. Diesel the response was "Don't hold your breath."

Regards.

JAB

==                                                                 ==
 Jeffrey A. Berg              Interactive Telecommunications Program
 Technical Administrator                         New York University
                          berg@acf2.nyu.edu
                          =================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life.
                      I can see it no other way.
                           --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)
==                                                                 ==

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Oct 1994 12:51:44 -0700
From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Universal in the hand crank

Thanks for sharing your ingenious solution to a common problem!  I think, 
after listening to all that you went through, however, that I would go to a 
welder (I can't weld either, dammit) and have the solution you first 
suggested, namely, welding a universal into the crank.  I also think that a 
guide bracket could be welded on, attached to the bottom of the bumper, but 
placed far enough back to be well within the structure, rather than hanging 
down into the ramp angle, as the U-bolt in the bottom of the bumper tends to be.

I will have to consider your idea when I get ready to install my Tensen 
winch.  I got it from Gord'n Perrott of Seattle.  I mentioned to him my 
concern for keeping the winch low but still being able to crank-start.  He 
showed me his installation (actually on Stephanie's Land-Rover) which has 
the winch sitting pretty low, so the pull is nearly in line with the frame, 
yet just barely allows the stock alignment of the crank, with the crank 
rubbing up against the bottom of the cable on the spool.

Another solution that I have considered is to mount the winch just high 
enough to have the crank work when all or at least much of the cable is 
played out.  You can pull it out by hand (by free-spooling the winch) then, 
after you have successfully crank-started the engine, use the power to wind 
the cable back in. Not too convenient, but how often do I expect to have to 
crank start?  (I won't go installing the winch at all until I have the whole 
electric system pretty well spiffed up, including a dual battery set-up with 
isolating circuitry).

Regards,  Granville
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
[ Granville Pool (Redwood Valley, CA) Appraiser, R/W Agent, LR aficionado ]
[ e-mail: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net ** Ph:(707)485-7220 H,(707)463-4265 W ]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Oct 1994 12:52:09 -0700
From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Derelict Series I: Buy it?

Jan, you said:

>I have a friend in Caldwell, Idaho who has LR - about 1955 if I 
>remember correctly -  that she wants to get rid of.  It has been sitting 
>outside by the barn for years and years.  I am going over to look at it 
>next weekend, but thought I better try to get some info first.  She told 
>me that it still turns over. 

[snip-snip]

>At this point I was thinking of offering her $500.

That sounds like the most you'd want to pay, unless hers has some special 
equipment you want to get your hands on, like an overdrive, winch, or something.

>She needs to get rid of it right away because she has finally "sold the 
>farm."  [snipity-snip]

That should indicate that a lower price offer might work, say $200-$300.  
Although, I realize, she is your friend... ;^o

>She said she saw an ad in the Nickle shopper from someone in 
>Seattle looking for Rovers of any type.  Would that be anyone on LRO? 
>She was going to call the number this week.

Well, what's the number?  My guess would be Gord'n Perrott (not on the 
Internet).

>I'll admit that I know nothing about cars! The farthest I have gotten is 
>bicycle maintenance classes.  But now I am looking for a course to take 
>in auto repair.  I have a book/manual and am  trying to figure out how I 
>can get started by this winter (since it is snowing - just barely - out 
>there today, I guess I have waited too long!)

In light of what you are saying in this paragraph, I wonder why you think 
that you might want a parts Rover.  If you do plan to work on yours, if it 
will likely need a fair measure of the parts likely to be usable from hers, 
if you have room to have a parts vehicle without getting arrested, and if 
the price is right, it might just be a good idea.  I myself have several 
parts-and/or- project Land-Rovers but I'm an admitted gonzo Land-Rover nut 
and have 2.5 acres in the country.  Even at that, I sometimes wonder what 
I've gotten myself into.
8^]>

Best Regards, Granville
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
[ Granville Pool (Redwood Valley, CA) Appraiser, R/W Agent, LR aficionado ]
[ e-mail: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net ** Ph:(707)485-7220 H,(707)463-4265 W ]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Oct 1994 15:25:05 -0500
From: "David K. Hudson" <dkh@howdy.wustl.edu>

Subject: 89RR Tires?

I'm also looking for tires, but for my wife's 89RR.  The only place I've
found here in St. Louis, MO with the stock 205R16 MX+S244 wants $175 each
installed.  Other similar size tires are about $110.  Any net wisdom/
experience on the subject?   Oh, she only needs two.  Can you use slightly
different sizes on front and rear?

Thanks,
Dave Hudson

PS  I struck gold on my last net query.  Someone recommended a BMW replacement
for a RR coolant level sensor.  The BMW part 61-31-1-375-715 at $22.48 was
identical to the Rover part PRC5077 at $55 (from same dealer in STL).

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Oct 94 15:13:53 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  Oil consumption

I guess the EPA would not approve of mine then!!

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Oct 94 15:23:01 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: RR tires

The last two stock 205 R16 Michelins I have bought from the dealers were $145 installed
installed; one from Scott Motors in Reno and one from RAB motors in San Rafael.
I understand the price had recently dropped (it used to be $200+) -- I wonder
if your dealer is still using the old price??

Interesting news ^About the coolant sensor -- mine also failed and I pulled
iot apart & fixed it rather than cough up for a new one.

Re the tires -- the tires themselves were $125 each, plus installation.

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Oct 1994 17:02:54 EDT
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: Camel Trophy Book

Several of you have mentioned the Camel Trophy book.  Incidentally, it was
purchased by Chris Laws (Badger Coachworks) for $62 at the silent auction.
For those who want to order diredtly, the price is $65 US plus postage from
Switzerland ($-??).  The publisher- SQP SA - takes Visa, MC, Amex and
Diners.  Write them at:
        Camel Trophy - SQP SA
        P.O. Box 129
        1025 St. Sulpice
        Switzerland
or call 41.21/691.05.95 or FAX to 41.21/691.06.00.  (You figure out the
country code, etc.) Tell 'em you got the address from ROAV...as they were
kind enough to donate the book to us.  The text is printed in English,
German and French.

One of the disappointments of the rally was the lack of demo models from
LRNA.  Though they helped out with a significant monetary contribution,
they couldn't bring a Disco down (selling too fast).  Also, the US debut of
the metal-top Defender 90 was supposed to happen, but....

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Rod Walker Please read this!!!!
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 94 9:31:05 EST

Hi rod, I have been trying to mail this message to you for the past
couple of weeks, but the mailer just comes back and says that it was 
unable to deliver it after 5 days, so hopefully you will recieve this,
as you posted and article yesterday!

> Craig
> I finally got my series I landy. It turns out (I think) that it is  a 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
> it roadworthy and start having fun in it.
> Rod

Is the motor a X-flow? if so, it sounds like it has the original 2l motor in
it, which ain't to bad, as long as you don't want to go real fast.
With the rust, if it is in an good place, you might be able to cut it out, and
weld in a new piece to take its place.

My series 1 is still not going, as when I swapped bell housings to put the
diesel in, a C ring, fell off the lay shaft, and when I went to roll start
it, it blew up the gear box, I am waiting for that to be re-built, and I
am currently thinking of ways to put a snorkel on.

The best part about owning a series 1 is all the wierd looks you get when
you are filling it up at the petrol station, not many people have seen a 
car that you have to fill from under the drivers seat!

Happy roving.

==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                            1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                              2.25 diesel (Nearly!)
LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia             (Currently on Digest Mode)
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: MIKE LODICE
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 94 17:55:09 PDT

Don't you just hate being the subject of a Email.....

I lost you Email, But I do work for cisco the networking company.
I am a Network engineer (Really I plug holes). At the moment I am
sold to Ford Motor Co. where I am babysitting a network, some customers
, and a Saleman.

Russ

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Oct 1994 20:42:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: Gregory Brown <brow7767@mstr.hgc.edu>
Subject: Importing Parts to Connecticut,USA

Hello Rover owners,
	My name is Greg Brown and I am new to the digest.  I own a '71 88 
Series IIA (well loved).  The reason for my first message is a Graduate 
class entitled "Information and the Future Organization".  A project for 
the class has to deal with defining a need, finding the solution and 
communicating it to the right crowd.  Well the need is a economical 
avenue to obtain Land Rover parts in Connecticut.  The solution is what 
I am looking for.  The customers will be defined as the members of The 
Yankee Rover Club.

My first question today is whether anyone knows of a source in England 
that I can contact to obtain a parts listing and prices?  Maybe one 
someone on the Net is a supplier? or would someone be interested in being 
a liaison to help us acquire parts?

Well hope someone can help.  Tread lightly.

Greg Brown  (gerg)

'71 88 Series IIA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Oct 1994 13:40:44 -0400
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: Drippy Landys

Jon writes:

none
If there is a federal regulation regarding OIL CONSUMPTION, or leaking
90w, then there are a lot of us outlaw drippin renegades putting around
in those "snot a jeeps".
I hope Mr Al Gore isn't out there reading this cause he knows where I live.
none

Jon,

If ol' Al is sharp enough to follow your 90wt trail to your domicile, just cut 
Lassie loose and sick her on him.  I often worry about Greenpeace chaining 
themselves to my D-rings in an effort to save those poor helpless insects 
unfortunate enough to make a path across my driveway.  If there is a federal 
regulation regarding oil consumption, it is either brand new or they have been 
trying to keep it a secret.  While we're on the subject, after tightening my 
oil filter housing, my oil consumption went from 3 qts per 250 miles from Cape 
Cod to NJ to less than a quart for 1000 miles + from NJ to VA and back.  I was 
very pleased (and a little embarrassed).

A little Baloney from Maloney

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Oct 1994 14:10:01 -0400
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: Allison Ignition

Greg writes:     

none

For those who might be curious the part number for the XR700 electronic
ignition system for the Land Rover 2.25l petrol is 700-0231. They have told
me this will work with the Lucas and Ducellier distributors. I am also
supposed to be getting their full catalogue so I will pass on any more news
I can get from that.

This unit replaces the points/condensor in the distributor with an
optical/electrical trigger to fire the coil...

I believe these units sell for around $100 to $120.

none

Greg,

The Allison is a very good unit.  I've had one on my Volvo 145 for 6 years 
now and have had no problems.  Installation was straightforward but you do 
need to drill a hole in the side of the distributor to feed in the wiring 
harness.  My points were clean and set correctly before I installed it so I 
only got 1/2 mpg improvement.  However, there was no degradation of ignition 
and gas mileage that I experienced over time with points (300-350 miles/wk) 
and cold starting and running were somewhat better (they also claim that the 
unit is immune to shaft wobble - mine was OK so I can't verify that, but it 
makes sense in theory).  If your goal is to save money via increased gas 
mileage and ending annual points and condenser purchases, the payback takes a 
while.  If your goal is less maintenance and better running (and less 
deterioration over time), an electronic ignition kit may be worthwhile.

I am planning to install one on my 88 possibly this spring.

Moss Motors sells them for $100.  Their number is 800-235-6954 in US and 
Canada.

A little Cheese from Baloney

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

Subject: Universal in the hand crank
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 94 22:56:03 -0500

mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool) writes:

> Not too convenient, but how often do I expect to have to crank start?

        Depends how often you go swimming in a lake or a swamp...  Using
        winch cables to ground and jump start Land Rovers in several feet
        of water isn't necessarily fun if the crank had not been covered
        with a winch (A Koneig crank driven one in this case).

        Rgds,

        Dixon

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry,            |    Ottawa Valley Land Rovers
Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
(OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4

------------------------------

Subject: Tyre sizes
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 94 22:40:39 -0500

mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool) writes:

> Rob Meridith writes:
> >I am getting confused, can someone give a definitive explanation of tyre
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> have a few comments to offer.  I don't think there is any particular magic 
> in rim diameter; it is just one of several factors to consider.

        There is.  A North American 88 will most likely have 15" rims.
        Besides using them as door stops and getting 16" rims, the fact to
        bear in mind is how large a tire you can mount on that rim.  There
        are two types of 16" rims over here.  The wide and narrow rims.
        The 109's had wider rims and will happily take a 750/16 tire.  The
        narrow rims are recommended to 700/16 though you can put the larger
        tire on them  (granted I have seen 900/16's on an 88") but it is
        not really recommended.  Rim diameter does matter.  15" rims suck
        for all sorts of reasons from fuel economy, top speed, to how good
        a mud tire you can toss onto it.

> Bottom line:  You can usually make the rim diameter you have work for you.  
> The right height, width, carcass construction, load capacity, and tread 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> that any number of LRO-netters can offer you more advice than you ever would 
> have hoped for!

        You offer a lot of things to consider, however, if you are going to
        do a lot of road driving, get radials.  Very simple.  I have SATs
        and they are mind numbingly noisey going down the highway but look
        really cool at car shows and work very well off-road (I'll shut up
        before we start a tire war here, though a set of XCLs pulled a
        particular SAAB at 3am a lot better that the SATs did (I wonder if
        the wood pile had anything to do with that <grin>... :-)).  Radials
        have problems off-road in some conditions, advantages over bias-ply
        in other conditions.  Radials seem to be more delicate off-road and
        do not seem to withstand some of the punishment from rock, sharp
        objects et cetera that can be encountered.  'tis a matter of horses
        for courses...

        Rgds,

        Dixon

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry,            |    Ottawa Valley Land Rovers
Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
(OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4

------------------------------

Subject: Re: My torrid love affair
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 94 21:51:40 -0500

"TeriAnn Wakeman" <twakeman@apple.com> writes:

> Your not the first on the list to purchase a previously unloved fixer upper t
> has been sitting around.  My series II 109 pickup was sitting for a couple of
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> badly worn.  That was in '78.  I still own her and over the years she has bec
> so much a part of me I can't imagine not having the Green Rover around.

        Sounds like the 109.  Sat for 15 years because the PO couldn't ever
        finish converting from a generator to an alternator, positive earth
        to negative earth.  (Actually my proposal is to goto an alternator,
        but I am going to rebuild a LUCAS alternator into a positive earth
        model... :-))

> Dixon towed his first Land Rover home from where it was sitting for several 
> years.  He spent a lot of time rebuilding it and finally got it going about a
> year and a half ago.

        And then drove it through the forest for another two years and learned
        that off-roading is not really that cheap (expect to blow away a set
        of shoes every year minimum, a set of drums every two or three years,
        abnormally high wear on the clutch plate...  and this is if you take
        the proper precautions and after mudding routine seriously.  (See the
        October OVLR for an article on this.  I'll post it here when I get a
        chance)  Go through fine clay as found at a couple of sites up here
        and you can kiss a set of shoes good-bye in one afternoon))

        All in all, it has been an interesting learning experience.  The
        net has provided a lot of good advice and taking the thing apart
        several times teaches you a lot.  (Don't let this disuade you from
        embracing Land Rovers, experience will show you it is the only
        way to understand and appreciate a vehicle)

> > Its how many of us got started with Land Rovers.

        It really is the only way, but having someone to ask questions
        to is very important.  Having the wealth of knowledge locally
        with OVLR is a god send, having a good number of those members as
        licenced mechanics helps tremendously.  Of course such encouragement
        leads to a situation where I now have nine of these things.  (Anyone
        interested in a 109 pick-up?  I have a few... :-))

> However, it sounds like you do have a full blown frome off restoration
> projec on your hands.  I suggest that you break it down into many small
> doable projects and don't look at the whole job.

        Debateable.  Maybe to the first time owner this makes a lot of sense.
        To someone who is more experienced, and familiar with Land Rovers
        it doesn't.  To do it all again today the biggest factor is
        encouragement, encouragement, encouragement.  Without that, spend
        the US$8,000 and get yourself a really nice Land Rover.  With
        encouragement for friends, the net, and others, you can take apart
        those axles, replace the springs, and do a lot of the nasty jobs
        that really need to be done.  Do you really want to do this several
        times?  It sounds a bit daunting, but think of the end result.

        To do the 109 properly, it should have been taken apart down to the
        frame.  Did it make sense at the time?  No, not really, but it
        still has to be done.  The frame is slowly getting soft and the
        more I play with Land Rovers, the more sense getting a new frame to
        start with is.

> The first thing you might want to do is go over it with a camera taking as
> many close up detail photos as you can, then follow it up sith sketches &
> notes.

        This makes a lot of sense.  It might seem simple when you take it
        apart, but you can bet that you will scratch your head when it
        comes time to put it together again.  Having the factory manuals
        are a must if you seriously wish to tackle a restoration project.
        Too many reference materials is never a bad thing.  After you have
        played with a few Land Rovers, taken them apart and put them back
        together, you can start to cut corners (so to speak)

        Join the Series I club, and if there isn't one nearby, join one farther
        afield, or a Land Rover club that has a lot of Series I's.

> Next take the body off the frame so you deal with the frame rust, bulkhead
> and running gear. Pulling the body off is not as big a deal as it may seem,

        Frame is always the biggest hassle and weak point on a Land Rover.
        Having the frame in fine shape is the majority of the battle.  The
        rest of the body is just a bunch of nuts and bolts and about an hour
        or so with a friend to pull off.

> It took a long time and a LOT of work, but I will soon have a new TR3 on
> the road where a badly rusted worn out fugitive from a wrecking yard once
> existed.

        The only way.  Not only do you have something that you appreciate
        and know, but something that others will appreciate and admire.
        The other small factor, is that if you ever have to sell the pet,
        you will get a lot more for something done right thanfor a quick
        patch job.

        Rgds,

        Dixon

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry,            |    Ottawa Valley Land Rovers
Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
(OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4

------------------------------

Subject: Importing Parts to Connecticut,USA
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 94 23:19:07 -0500

Gregory Brown <brow7767@mstr.hgc.edu> writes:

> My first question today is whether anyone knows of a source in England 
> that I can contact to obtain a parts listing and prices?  Maybe one 
> someone on the Net is a supplier? or would someone be interested in being 
> a liaison to help us acquire parts?

        In short, the best is probably Merseyside in terms of catalogues
        from the UK.

        There are a few good parts suppliers, some bad ones.  Grab a copy
        of the parts suppliers section out of the Land Rover FAQ for
        starters.  For some parts, there is a chap nearby in Vermont (used
        to be in Taunton Mass.) who has a lot of parts.  Mike Bunoudouci is
        his name, I'll send you his number when I get to work tomorrow.  My
        ultimate solution was to bypass the parts suppliers in England and get
        a distributorship for BearMach which supplies Merseyside, Paddock, et al
        with aftermarket parts.  For some stuff this is the way to go.  For
        other parts, Genuine is the way to go and you might just find that
        Rovers North in Westford Vermont is a good place to look.

        As per price listings and catalogues, get ahold of the Rovers North
        catalogue.  It is about the best you will find anywhere.  Those I
        have received from the UK come no where near them for being complete,
        easy to use, and generally very useful to have around.  Getting a
        catalogue from the UK can be a real pain and with what you receive
        probably not worth the effort.

        Rovers North is supposed to be supplying me with an ASCII dump of
        their complete parts catalogue (Their catalogue only has about 1/3
        or their stock).  WHen I receive this it will be available here to
        browse and after I am going to write a programme allowing people to
        query their database via mail messages.

        Rgds,

        Dixon

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry,            |    Ottawa Valley Land Rovers
Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
(OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 1994 00:44:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: MIKE LODICE

> Don't you just hate being the subject of a Email.....
none

It sure beats being in a police lineup....

> I lost you Email, But I do work for cisco the networking company.
> I am a Network engineer (Really I plug holes). At the moment I am
none

This doesn't look good... a network engineer losing Email...  :)

Sounds like fun....  I spend most of my day catching stray electrons in the
bit-bucket next to our AS/400.. 

Say.. you are the guy who hit the elk with a Range Rover, aren't you. (I'm
terrible with names.)

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern)       

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 1994 00:44:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:

> Subject: 89RR Tires?
> I'm also looking for tires, but for my wife's 89RR.  The only place I've
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Thanks,
> Dave Hudson
Dave... I won't profess any knowledge of Range Rovers, but as a general
rule, it's not a good idea to use differant sized tires front and rear on
ANY four-wheel drive vehicle. It does nasty things to your
transmission/transfer case (or what have you).
Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern)       

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 

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