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1 William Caloccia [calocc56Next Land Rover National Rally
2 maloney@wings.attmail.co94Bay State Meet
3 Richard Jones [rich@apri23[not specified]
4 CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR 29Mid-Atlantic Rally
5 "Stefan R. Jacob" [1000422Re: Next Land Rover National Rally
6 maloney@wings.attmail.co19Rollbars & Softtops
7 "Stefan R. Jacob" [1000471New Range Rover & the men behind it
8 brabyn@skivs.ski.org (Jo12Re: GRP / ARC Nationals / Quality of Service
9 llevitt@idcresearch.com 17Source for Discovery service manuals?
10 William Caloccia [calocc334[not specified]
11 leefi@microsoft.com 54Rover V8s: cold and confused
12 Russell Burns [burns@cis24Re: Rover V8s: cold and confused
13 David John Place [umplac8Re: Source for Discovery service manuals?
14 David John Place [umplac38Re: Rover V8s: cold and confused
15 Benjamin Allan Smith [ra15[not specified]


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Subject: Re: GRP / ARC Nationals / Quality of Service
Date: Wed, 05 Oct 94 07:45:19 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

Allright, as a short timer here (uk) I'm going to stick out my neck and
answer some questions...
 ------
From: WILSONHB@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu

	I think that is the UK phrase for fiberglass.
	(gel-coated glass re-enforced plastic)

 ----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Next Land Rover National Rally

> Does anyone know when next year's event is scheduled? I had to miss this 
> year's, which could have been avoided (the missing I mean) if I had known 
> far enough in advance.

>From little experience, I'll venture that  it will continue to be held on
the 'May (or Spring) Bank Holiday' weekend, which commonly falls about the
same time as Memorial Day in the states (Monday May 29, 1995),  I recall
hearing that the host club this year is Linconshire, (and they are rumoured
to have fun prowling about old quarries, which can be rough on vehicles).

If you intend on entering any competitions,* you'll need to register soon,
Due to some convoluted supremacy of the RAC (supreme automobile competition
authority in the UK), you'll need to hold a valid RAC competition liscence
to compete.  For the purposes of the ARC nationals, this in practice, means
you join a UK Rover ARC (and therefore, RAC) affiliated club, as full
membership includes the appropriate right to compete, and insurance 
disclaimers, etc..  

*speaking of which I don't recall seeing such in my recent Southern mailings.

 ----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Walt Swain
>From the discussion of problems at LRW and LRO:
> Kind of sad, though, that the UK is exhibiting these characteristics.

wrt the UK: 'customer service' is generally accepted to be an oxymoron on
	this island... though I must say I was amazed (in a positive way)
	during a recent trip to 'kwik fit' (muffler/brake/shock, etc. chain).

    Cheers,
	--bill	caloccia@Team.Net	caloccia@Stratus.Com

      1  3     dl OD  L           "Land Rover's first, becuase
      |--|--+  o  |   |            Land Rovers last."
      2  4  R     N   H           '72 Range Rover ++ '69 S.IIa 88"

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Date: Wed, 05 Oct 1994 08:06:21 -0400
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: Bay State Meet

This past weekend I attended the Bay State Rovers meet in Cape Cod.  I arrived 
Friday at noon after a 6 hour drive in heavy stop and go traffic.  Not fun.  
The wind on the Cape was estimated at 35mph and really cold (the national 
weather service said that the winds on the top of Mt. Washington were 95mph). 
I had to stake down my dome tent for the first time, and even at that the wind 
was blowing it almost flat.  Chris Laws of Badger Coachworks was there with 
his well kitted IIA 88,  his friend Dennis had a military 109 late IIA with 
canvas top, and another fellow had a recently redone IIA 88 in that new 
Defender green.  Wow!  Even though the bodywork had not been fully prepped, it 
looked great.  It's a super color.  Not many others showed up Friday evening 
and Jim and Cathy Papas were noticeably absent.  Ben Smith arrived around 9pm 
after following somewhat questionable directions from myself bringing the OVLR 
contingent up to 2. 

After a downright frigid night (pull all the clothes out of your travel bag 
and pile them on your sleeping bag) some more folks showed up between 10 and 
noon. Jim Pappas brought his 110 and a 90, Andrew Cutting brought Jim's IIB(?) 
forward control, Mark Leteorney (sp) of Rover's North arrived with his '85 
110, and Chris Velonis arrived that evening bringing a new 110 and a new babe 
(and a rather attractive one at that).  There were several others I did not 
recognize bringing the total to the mid 20s.  One of the Disco's included a 
rather attractive young lady.  We almost choked when we found she was 14. 

Cathy Papas did a great job of flipping dogs & burgers on the grill for lunch, 
then we headed out on the off road trip.  Chris Laws had to leave his Rover 
behind due to a snapped downpipe.  The same failure reportedly happened to him 
last year.  Forget about genuine parts.  It's time for him to use some new 
parts for a change (Buy a new pipe, Chris!).  The trails were tight with brush 
on either side and hard packed for the most part with some softer sandy stuff 
here and there.  A little mud could be found but nothing you could get stuck 
in.  There was one section where the bikers had made some woop de dos, which 
made for a rather entertaining drive.  At mid point, we parked in a wider 
softer sandy area where Mark gave a winching demonstration.  Very informative 
with a strong emphasis on safety. 

That evening Jim had a catered clambake at the campground.  I'm not a clam 
fan, so I passed, but the folks that took part enjoyed it very much.  Jim 
passed out canvas Range Rover bags to the club members with Range Rover Visors 
and mini binoculars.  Ben wasn't included until I suggested he join the club. 
He did and got a bag out of it.  Jim also had many photos and specs on the new 
Range Rover.  It's a good looking vehicle but even if I could afford it I 
couldn't afford to maintain it. 

There seemed to be 3 distinct cliques/groups that evening.  The Land Rover 
contingency down by the lake who brought their own food & beer for the most 
part, the Range Rover/Disco crowd that did the expensive clambake at the high 
ground with more beer, and down in the lower reaches of the campground below 
the outhouse lurked Chris Velonis in the DEAD ZONE.  With all the music, beer, 
and accompanying social activities normally found at Dead concerts.  I 
discovered the reason folks bought the 110 Defenders, and that was so that you 
had enough room to carry your cubic yard of CDs.  Ben was right, this was a 
rather different rally. 

Later in the evening Jim fired up a portable generator to power a TV and VCR 
showing Land Rover videos.  There wasn't a site in the campground that didn't 
reverberate with the sound of that generator.  

The two other organized "events" were a raffle and a folder of Rover parts to 
be identified.  Both were held after I left, but Ben was kind enough to bring 
back my winnings.  I received another Range rover bag with visor, a Range 
Rover Beer cooler (pretty neat-now I have a place for my extra Land Rover 
patch), and a box of ROVER cookies.  Baked with 90wt for sure. 

Speaking for myself, no rally is complete without coming home with some 
goodies.  And aside from the items I won, I bought a Bay State sweat shirt to 
replace my OVLR sweat shirt for the weekend (Oh, oh, I can feel the flames 
coming).  The Bay State sweat shirt was MUCH heavier, and as I am not anywhere 
near as hardy as my fellow OVLR members (I've never skinny dipped with Dixon, 
Dale, or Bates in a frozen lake), I had to put survival first.  I must 
confess, the sweatshirt did make a difference.  It would be a bit much in the 
summer, though.  I also got from Ben 100+ feet of his big bloody rope. We made 
it an even trade for my spare clutch master and slave rebuild kit (yes, it was 
a fair trade).  

Saturday night rained cats & dogs and I decided to leave early Sunday morning. 
Fortunately the weather cleared and the route I chose to take home, although 
being 20-30 miles longer, saved me an hour and a half off the direct route 
using 95.  Over all, it was OK.  The best part was getting to see everyone 
again, and I really enjoyed meeting Andrew Cutting from the UK.  Also it was 
nice to see Mark in a setting away from Rover's North where he was just one of 
the guys. 

Bill Maloney 

IIA 88 & 109 Wagon 

Wayne, NJ USA 

maloney@wings.attmail.com 

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Subject: Re: GRP / ARC Nationals / Quality of Service
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 1994 13:06:11 +0100 (BST)
From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.co.uk>

William Caloccia writes:
> From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
> Subject: Next Land Rover National Rally
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> same time as Memorial Day in the states (Monday May 29, 1995),  I recall
> hearing that the host club this year is Linconshire, (and they are rumoured
> to have fun prowling about old quarries, which can be rough on vehicles).

27th - 29th May 1995	Blankney Park, Lincolnshire, England

But was this the National Rally in question or was it with regard to a
North American event? 

-- 
 _ __            Apricot Computer Limited    Tel:   (+44) 21 717 7171
' )  )      /    3500 Parkside               Fax:   (+44) 21 717 0123
 /--' o _. /_    Birmingham Business Park
/  \_<_(__/ <_   BIRMINGHAM  B37 7YS         Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk
Richard Jones    United Kingdom                     ..!uknet!apricot!richardj

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Date: Wed, 05 Oct 1994 09:59:06 EDT
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: Mid-Atlantic Rally

Leaving right now (Wed. 10 AM) for the rally site, as there are still a few
loose ends to tie up.  If you are planning to attend and have not
registered, bring your own food, as the final numbers have been given to
the caterers.  As of PM Tuesday, over 60 Rovers from as far away as
Sarasota, FL had registered.  All marques too, from a '51 Sries I to new Discos.

For those who wanted T-Shirts, there probably will not be any left...we
printed up twelve dozen and they are *spectacular* in SIX print colors.  I
expect them to sell out quickly.

All of the parts suppliers have donated some really great prizes: ABP gave
a receiver-mount bike rack, BR a hi-lift, RN a MAX tool and CCC Auto
Accessories some great enamel Land Rover signs.  And of course, the Camel
Trophy stuff from RJR.

Reports to follow....

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

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Date: 05 Oct 94 10:50:44 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Next Land Rover National Rally

John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org> wrote:

>Does anyone know when next year's event is scheduled? I had to miss this 

Next years's ARC *Inter*national Rally (as it is now called) will be held
on the british spring Bank Holiday * May 27 - 29 1995 *  at a site just
south of Lincoln and hosted by the 'Lincolnshire Land Rover Club Ltd'.
For further information, call or write snailmail to: Eric Rawlings,
23 Banovallum Gardens, Horncastle, Lincolnshire LN9 6PN, voice: 0507-526847

Cheers,

Stefan

<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>
LROC of Hessen
Wiesbaden, Germany

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Date: Wed, 05 Oct 1994 11:34:56 -0400
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: Rollbars & Softtops

At the Baystate meet a fellow with a IIA 88 had a rollbar fitted along with 
hoops & a canvas top.  The horizontal side bars that connect the front and 
rear hoops are mounted on the outside of the bars at the front (instead of 
inside) and seems to cause no problem (I would take care to make sure there 
are no sharp edges to contact the top).  The rollbar attaches to the 
galvanized body cappings 1.5" aft of the front hoop.  He had to cut a 1" hole 
in the lower part of the capping to allow the fitment of the rear nut for the 
rear bar mounting plate.  It's similar to the hole for the mounting of the 
center side hardtop brackets.  He purchased the roll bar from DAP for around 
$200.  It looks like a nice set up (the bar is a Lightweight roll bar).

Bill

maloney@wings.attmail.com

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Date: 05 Oct 94 12:47:06 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: New Range Rover & the men behind it

Folks,

I came across a very interesting article by a Chris Barrie in the
british daily newspaper "The Guardian" of 29 Sept. (on page 19,
section 'finance and economics') that gives some insight to the
possible cause for Solihull's latest success, especially with the
new Range Rover, and reports about a truly unique and new approach
to personnel management. To save bandwidth I'll just quote the most
interesting parts.

      ************************ PRESS CLIPPING *************************

      "Selecting an elite from all production lines  for  a  new  model
      wins the associates' vote if it means jobs for life."

      "Land Rover, the Midlands-based specialist vehicle  company,  put
      workers  through  psychometric  testing  and extensive interviews
      when choosing the team that is to  build  the  new  Range  Rover,
      which is unveiled today.
              The  vehicle,  which  has  cost  BP#   300   million   in
      development  and  production equipment, is being assembled by 650
      workers selected from Land Rover's other production lines.
              The workers, or associates as they are called, were  only
      accepted for the project once they had been interviewed for their
      attitude and  "compatibility",  and  passed  psychometric  tests.
      Such tests are designed to reveal personality traits via analysis
      of answers to questionnaires.  The workers'  performance  records
      were also scrutinised. ...
                                 *** TEXT OMITTED ***
      ... people had been chosen according to their readiness to fit in
      with Land Rover's new culture.
              With the aid of outside consultants, the company and  its
      selected  workers set about devising a set of rules and standards
      for the new production line.
              Under the acronym "Conquer" -  _C_ommitment,  _O_ne  team
      open minded, _N_o second best, _Q_uality image, _U_tmost honesty,
      _E_ffective communication, _R_espect - the team is supposed to be
      loyal,  uncompromising  in its drive for quality, have a sense of
      humour, consider others' opinions, lead by example,  be  friendly
      and  share  knowledge,  accept  there is no demarcation, and give
      praise and reward where due.
              There is also a ban on line-side smoking and eating...
                               *** TEXT OMITTED ***
      ...Team managers lead the workforce in the assembly of the car.
              They were  selected  after  a  day  of  tests  and  trial
      presentations  to  managers,  and  are seen as key players in the
      drive to keep quality standards high on the shopfloor.
              They also had a say in  the  design  of  the  cars's  key
      components,  ensuring  that  assembly  is  as  easy  as possible.
      Lineside manuals on how to put the car together  are  written  by
      the teams.
              Productivity is up by a whopping 50 per  cent,  with  the
      new  Range  Rover  needing  just  half  the  time to build of its
      predecessor. "
                                 *** TEXT OMITTED ***
                                          ...

           ******************** END OF CLIPPING ***************

How's that? Seems they've come a long way from the old British Leyland days
when 2/3 of a workers time was spent with union meetings, strikes and tea
breaks ...

Stefan R. Jacob
<100043.2400@CompuServe.com>
LROC of Hessen

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Date: Wed, 5 Oct 94 10:39:17 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re: GRP / ARC Nationals / Quality of Service

Many thanks for the info folks, but actually I was referring to the US one.
Sorry for not making it clear! My mistake. Anyway, I'd love to go to
the UK one as well!!

John Brabyn
California
89RR

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From: llevitt@idcresearch.com
Date: Wed, 05 Oct 94 17:31:04 EST
Subject: Source for Discovery  service manuals?

Has anybody either purchased or heard of basic service manuals for the 
Discovery, along the lines of Chiltons, Haynes or Bentley? It's for someone who 
wants to be able to do basic maintenance (oil change, etc) on their Disco, not 
take the whole thing apart with a nail clipper...

If you do, could you let me know so I could pass the information along? An ISBN 
and publisher would be very helpful.

TIA,

Lee

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Subject: lighting science (or lack there of)  (long) 
Date: Wed, 05 Oct 94 20:51:28 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

<All right, those of you who remember me, will know I had to reply to
<any self confessed quartz halogen junkie that clamed 130w H4s are
<'no problem'  [NOT!]  So I've got my welding goggles handy for any replies :-)

Lee Levitt <llevitt@IDCRESEARCH.COM> broadcasts:
>Subject: lighting science

>Since I'm a confirmed quartz halogen junkie

	Admission is always the first step to recovery,
	you can seek help now when you're ready. :-)

> I buy my bulbs from Imparts. They seem to offer the best prices on bulbs at
> about $11 or so per high powered bulb 90/100 or 100/130. They also have high
> powered 9004s

Nice little blurb for 'em, they're generally a quality place, and given that
most outlets flog bulbs for much more, they've not unreasonable, but but 
generally no fantastic deals either.  

>I've run 80/100s in H4 ... No problem with ... blinding people.

At least that is what you think, 'cause obviously you're not attuned to 
what oncoming traffic experiences or you've screwed up your own aiming
directions.  [which were rather well written]

> I'm currently (ahem) running 90/100s ... I've got a set of 100/130s in the
> toolkit just waiting to be installed when the last of the 90/100s goes.

> Proper aiming of the lamps will help keep you from blinding people,
> but the fact is that in some circumstances, coming over the crest of a
> hill for instance,

	Right, THE FACT IS YOU WILL always blind some oncoming traffic due
	to their physical location:

	Traffic below
	Traffic crossing your beams, such as on bends
	Traffic while passing
	Traffic on frontage or slip roads (parallel tothe offside)
	Occasionally Yourself
	Occasionally Traffic straight ahead

That last two has everyone thinking 'this guy is nuts', well I am, but keep
reading.

Under weather conditions where there is fog, drizzle, or snow, this intensity
(> 55W) of light will create a dazzle, that will affect the visibility
of the oncoming driver, and it will also actually reduce the effective
operating range which you'll get out of your lights.  Additionally,
anytime during rain, or on wet roads, your mega-watt head lamps will
point where you set them, and then hit the water on the road and will
be reflected ahead, and scattered a little, which will create a nasty
blinding glare for oncoming drivers.  [Though being in the Northeast,
you probalby misjudge their flashing to be their dim bulbs bouncing over
the pot-holes.] 

At this point, those of you who have some experience here, or have studied
the chemistry of human optics, will realize that large amounts of light
consume the available chemicals in the rods in your retina, and it takes about
two minutes for you to fully regain your night vision, as those depleted 
chemicals are renewed, etc. 

Now those of us who have some sense, probably squint and look toward the
offside pavement markings, but I think we can safely presume there are a set
of drivers who are either clueless, or or shouldn't be out driving in the
first place.  Keeping in mind that their not capable of using their mind, and
like that deer dead ahead they've fixated on your headlamps and trying to
figure out what to do next.  While your ton of steel is approacing thier
tone of steel at something between 60 and 130 mph (depending...)

> the concentrated light from the H4 will bother people
> no matter whether you've got 55 watts or 130.

	Years ago, before the auto makers lobbied legislators to allow
	'aero' headlamps, and the mass introduction of H9004 lighting
	systems, I would have agreed that 55W halogens bothered the general
	populace, most of whom were used to on coming traffic having 
	tungsten filament bulbs which had long degraded to less than 75% of
	their luminosity (from new).

	Today, Halogen 9004s are the normal fare, and the difference between
	the standard 45w and a 55w is generally not perceived to be annoying.
	Under many advers conditions 85w bulbs are easily annoying. 

> Passing can also be a problem. Don't linger behind someone as you're
> passing them. The "hot spot" of your beam pattern shines right on their
> mirrors and into their eyes. Makes them rather cranky.

>  BTW, trucks can be particularly sensitive to this and may take
>  countermeasures you won't like. So be careful when passing.

For having earlier stated that running high powered lights is 'no problem',
you've certainly become aware (evidently by pissing off other road users) that
they can be a problem.

>  I've been asked why I run such high-powered lights on my cars.

	Obviously cause you're a junkie

> Fog Lamps
> For best road coverage they should be
>mounted below the bumper...for maximum protection they should be above the
>bumper...you choose. Aiming methodology is similar to that for low beams.

	If you have a vehicle with unusually high bumpers, the mounting of 
	fog lamps well above the ground will not serve you well, some
	places explicitly state upper limits for the height of fogs. 

> Other Auxiliary Lamps

> If you're adding driving or pencil beams, you know what you're doing.

	Probably not, but then we're stuck with whatever these junkies
	decide to do.

Now, flaming you along isn't a very nice thing to do, so I'll continue
to explain what is 'in my humble opinion':

To start with I'll state that I'm the last guy (ok, maybe not the very last
guy - I've got a dime and I'm not going to call the FBI and tell 'em that
I've invited uncle ho and chairman mao over for dinner), but the last
guy who would tell you not to run higher power bulbs or auxillary lights
on your vehicle. 

What I would suggest is that IF you get combination H4 bulbs, you ought to 
get dipped (low) beam and fog lamps bulbs that are of a reasonable
strength - 55w or 60w. 

Run excess wattage in the high beams, and/or driving lamps.

If you've got H4 based bulbs, look a little harder and you'll come across
the maker of 55w/80w bulbs or even 55w/100w bulbs.  This will allow you
to present a civil amount of light to oncoming drivers - in any position 
or condition, and it will give you a reasonable strength low beam that won't
cause a large amount of dazzle back to you when it is foggy or snowy. At the
same time you run about as strong a high beam as is usefull in most hi/lo
lamps.

I personally can't understand why anyone would want to put in greater than
100w into a mass manufacturer high beam, 'cause those lamps are in some
way compromised.  Putting stronger bulbs in stock mustang 'aero' headlamps
is in my opinion, putting extra energy in mostly useless places.  I'd hold
the same true for putting the higger wattage bulbs in standard european
7" or rectangular reflectors.  The additional energy will get some 
additional distance, but it is still likely you'll have major dark spots
for high speed driving. 

If you're out on the street, at lower speeds, odds are you're either on
a twisty fun road, or in a populated area.  In either case, greater distance
straight ahead is of marginal use to you, and a hazard to oncoming, as
they've havn't recovered from your dazzle when the reach the hazard you've
just passed.  Under these conditions fog lamps, which can serve duty as
cornering lamps, and in populated areas will also assist in illuminaing to
the sides, can assist in identifying short people, small animals, and other
objects at or near the side of the road.

At higher speeds, there is either on-coming traffic, so you'll be running
dipped beams, or the world is your oyster, and you can run what you brung
(within reason). The factory or converted high beams give the basic coverage,
add driving lamps to  fill in the voids left by the regulated lenses, and
if you've already got the fogs mounted, they'll come in handy as you're
flying down those unpaved parts setting up to practice the Sweedish flick...

>The Law
as I recall new jersey had on the books a limit to the number of forward
facing lamps (six ?), so if you started out with 4 from the factory, you lose

> Hope this helps. Please feel free to repost all or part of this

	Not a bad collection of thoughts, but you never did cover the
	science part of it, so I'll add that, from the last time this
	was thoroughly discussed (and yes, I've got the rest of the
	articles, memoirs of a foglight bone-head, as it were :-) 

    Cheers,
	--bill	caloccia@Team.Net	caloccia@Stratus.Com

      1  3     dl OD  L           "Land Rover's first, becuase
      |--|--+  o  |   |            Land Rovers last."
      2  4  R     N   H           '72 Range Rover ++ '69 S.IIa 88"

- Start Included Article -
  Copyright 1994, 1989: William Caloccia, All Rights Reserved.

 Article: 1291 of rec.autos.tech
 From: caloccia@lectroid.sw.stratus.com (William Caloccia)
 Subject: Re: Re: Halogen H-Style Bulbs and Foglights
 Summary: (60x2 + 55x4 +100) watts / 11.8volts = 37.3amps
 <	[and yes, when I wrote this, I confess that I did have:
	2x 7" Marchal H4 conversions 55/60w,
	2x 7" Marchal 900 55w Fogs,
	2x 55w Hella 155 driving lamps, and
	1x 100w 7" Marchal 900 Pencil Beam.
 < on the front bumper of my car '79 honda wagon...
 Keywords: Hella, Cibie, Marchal, who is PIAA anyway ?
 Message-ID: <524@lectroid.sw.stratus.com>
 Date: 29 Dec 89 06:54:45 GMT
 References: <8681.257ea2f9@ecs.umass.edu> <7750006@hpfcso.HP.COM>
 Organization: HoNdA'S 'r' uS, (aka HaLo'S 'r' uS, HeLlA'S 'r' uS)
 Lines: 127
 
 In article <7750006@hpfcso.HP.COM> post@hpfcso.HP.COM (Dave Post) writes:
 >Regarding the recent discussion on foglights:
 >
 >So, how do they work?  Does anyone have any idea how they work, technically.
 
 Hmmm, considering the discussion, you could be talking about halogen bulbs,
 fogs, or everything, so here goes:
 
 Halogen Bulbs: Design & Mounting differences
 
 	The differences between the H1, H2, and H3 bulbs are basically
 mechanical in form. Each has a different orientation of the filament with
 respect to the base, and each base is different.
 
 	Further references will describe the tip of the glass as the 'top'
 the metal base as 'bottom', the top-bottom axis is the 'TB axis'. The
 reference to the filament, refers to the coiled portion '_//////_'.
 
 	In the H1, the filament is in line with the TB axis.
 	(One application is in the Hella DE 2000 (Ellipsoidal Reflector)
 	Fog Lamp. It enters from the side or bottom of the reflector.)
 
 	The H2's filament is perpendicular to the TB axis. (?), while the
 	base is basically two 'fins' which are at the bottom of the lamp.
 	(Marchal uses this lamp in their 900 series Parabolic reflector
 	 Lamps, it sits in the center of the reflector.)
 
 	The H3's filament is perpendicular to the TB axis. While the
 	base is about the size of a quarter, and perpendicular to the TB axis.
 	(This is used by Hella in both the 181's (rectangular), and in the
 	 Factory fogs for Mustangs. It enters the rectangular lamp from the
 	bottem, in front of the reflector, while in the slim-profile (circular)
 	mustang lamps, it enters from the center of the reflector.)
 
 	The H4 is a dual filament bulb, used in 7" diameter 'conversion' 
 	lamps, and some rectangular lamps. The new 'aero' headlamps use a
 	closely related '9004' bulb, which has a radically different base.
 	The H4's top is masked (always ? sometimes?), and both filaments are
 	roughly in-line with the TB axis. the filament closer to the top
 	has a sheild, so as to illuminate only half the reflector, and thus
 	provide the 'low' beam. the second filament is located below the
 	first, and has no sheilds. (This enters from the center of the
 	reflector.)
 
 	Actual positions of the bulb's entry in the lamp housing (center,
 	bottem, side) vary with manufacter, and reflector design, for
 	the H1, H2, and H3 lamps.
 
 Halogen Lamps: Basic Theory
 
 	For operating prinicple of QH lamps I'll refer to "Automotive
 	Electrical Handbook", (Jim Horner, HP Books). 
 
 	As for the operating principles of the Halogen (Quartz-Halogen)
 	based bulbs, the basic tenants are that
 
 	(1) the quartz housing allows higher temperature operation than
 	    glass housing, as well as providing optical clarity, and a
 	    minimal thermal expansion. 
 
 	(2) the 'halogen cycle'. tungsten vapor given off by the filament
 	    is redeposited back onto the filament, extending its life
 	    significantly.  this also pratically eliminates bulb blackening.
 
 	(3) in the halogen atmosphere, the tungsten filament can operate at
 	    a much higher temperature, producing 'whiter' light. (you know,
 	    colour temperature and all that)
 
 Automotive Lamp Applications:
 
 	Fog (rain, snow) will reflect light, thus, any light which rises
 from the lamp, will be reflected back into the drivers eyes. Thus the designer
 of a fog lamp want so aim the light forward and down. Typically a good fog
 lamp will have a vertical dispersion of about 8-12 degrees down from the
 horizontal.  The horizontal dispersion will be about 110 degrees. This
 puts light on the road in front of the vehicle, and to the sides, but puts
 no light up to reflect back into the drivers eyes.  The fog lamp housing
 will incorporate a sheild to prevent light from leaving the bulb and then
 reflecting up.  Fog lamps have a relatively short throw, the best being
 under 700 feet (Marchal 900 series, Hella Rallye 2000), typically the throw
 is about 500 feet.  Fogs are also referred to as 'cornering' lamps in some
 circles, because of the very wide pattern, allows one to get a good view of
 where the road is going in corners. Amber lenses or reflectors will diminish
 output slightly, while providing better visibility in foggy and snowy
 conditions. Fogs can annoy oncoming traffic when they would normally be
 in your lowbeams, AND when the oncoming lane is lower in elevation than
 your lane, even if it is across the median.
 
 	Low beams vary slightly with the design, especially the new Ellipsoidal
 Reflector designs which have shown up on the BMW's and in the latest Nissan
 Z-cars. Basically, a european dipped beam (low) will level to the left of the
 lamp axis, and rise slightly to the right (for left hand drive).  This
 pattern provides for road illumination ahead, and rises to show more of the
 edge of the road on the right.  The vertical adjustment of dipped beams is
 from 0 to 4 degrees below the horizontal, they don't point up in the air.
 The dipped beam has a short throw, similar to fogs, though is much narrower
 horizontally.
 
 	High (or Main) beams generally are designed to throw light further than
 the low beams, and spreading  the light up and down from the horizontal axis. 
 
 	Driving lamps will usually have a narrower beam which projects further
 than the high beams, and should be wired to shut off when the main beams are
 dipped (on low).
 
 	Pencil beams are interesting but of limited utility under normal
 circumstances. Their extremely narrow beam has a very far throw, and
 as such is of limited utility, unless you like illuminating street signs
 two miles away, or run an interrogating service.  
 
 	Some of the 'off-road' lamps are of different designs, using a 'PAR'
 (Parabolic reflector) lamp which is a sealed beam. These are offered in many
 different styles (flood, short throw, long throw, spot lamp), and are usually
 shock mounted in cases.  They are designed for a different environment (namely, 
 no oncoming traffic), and thus are quite rude on the road, while being fine for
 driving through the back country and getting a good handle on the trees
 and bushes coming at you. Also, the PAR lamps are much more costly to replace
 than the replacable H1/2/3 bulb, but probably less costly than replacing the
 lens/reflector unit which houses the H1/2/3 bulb.
 
 	next !
 
 	I plead insomnia.
 
 --------
 "tcp-ip doesn't care whether it's twisted pair or baling wire.  :-) "
 				-- quote  attributed to Kent England, BU
- End Included Article -

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From: leefi@microsoft.com
Subject: Rover V8s: cold and confused
Date: Wed, 05 Oct 94 18:33:07 

Back in March, a asked if anyone had experience with the Rover 3.9 V8 
petrol in cold weather. Basically I had a few experiences last year in my
Defender where the engine got confused in cold weather. The battery/starter
worked, it had fuel, the engine was turning over, there was exhaust coming
out the pipe, but the starter kept going and the engine wouldn't turn
over. It seemed like the system was doing the EFI-equivalent of flooding
itself, perhaps its sensors were confused by the temperature. 

This happened once in the BC Rockies in -60 condition after not having 
started the vehicle for 2 days (fingers were freezing to the engine block
checking things out). But 2 other times it did this in my driveway, in
much warmer (probably between 0-32) conditions.

In response to my earlier query, Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com> replied:

  I had the same problem with my Range Rover. I also noted that a lot of
  Rovers were in the shop for the same problem. I will admit changing 
  plugs in -30 f and pouring hot water over the intake manifold is not 
  what I expected from my rover. My isuzu always starts. I have heard 
  that if you don't step on the gas you will avoid this problem. I have 
  not had enough -30 degree weather to verify this.

Today I just got new ROMs updated on all the electronics, hoping this will
help reduce this problem (I'm trying to find out the "buglist" this ROM
updates).

The local Rover dealer mechanics (and their calls to LR North America tech
support) both claim ignorance to any kind of problem like this, so I was
hoping to find out if anyone else had this problem, or if this was a
fairly isolated phenomenon?

And if anyone has any advice on ways to help prevent/resolve this kind of
problem, I'd love to hear them. what about the Kenlow heater as seen in
LRO magazine? what about the stock engine block heater (could I rig this
up to work off a spare auto battery?)? etc.

Anyway, other Range Rover, Discover, and Defender folks, if you have any
advice, please let me know. And you lucky Series II/II folks, please don't
laugh too much that I can't simply pull out the choke and have it WORK...

Thanks,
Lee

ps: one of the mechanics at the local Rover dealer is interested in this
mailing list, I'm trying to get him setup on the Internet so he can post
participate.
__
Lee Fisher, leefi@microsoft.com, +1.206.936.8621, 74750.776@compuserve.com

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From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Rover V8s: cold and confused
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 94 18:59:51 PDT

jjj> 
> Today I just got new ROMs updated on all the electronics, hoping this will
> help reduce this problem (I'm trying to find out the "buglist" this ROM
> updates).
none
Can you forward me more info on the Prom updates.
Price?
How many Roms it takes to run a Rover.?
Do you notice any difference? 

Are these the 20MPG version.

We are also supposed to have another cold winter, and if this 
would help, it sure would be easier than drying plugs out at -30

Russ

Off to Va. for the Rover Rally

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Date: Wed, 5 Oct 1994 22:13:35 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Source for Discovery service manuals?

Try CARTECH at 1-800=551-4754.  They might just have what you want.  I
know they have the other Land Rover Books.  Dave VE4PN.  PS I am hoping to
have their catalogue in a few days.

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Date: Wed, 5 Oct 1994 22:22:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Rover V8s: cold and confused

Well I have not owned a modern Land Rover, mine have all been the Ser IIA
and II types, but I do drive modern 4x4 with fuel injection and I often
drive in Northern Canada where it gets to -40 etc.  The trick is don't
under any circumstances touch the gas pedal or you will be there a long
time.  For very cold weather you really need a battery blanket since most
batteries are toast after about -20 when they are less than efficient. 
Lots of people up here use recirculating type heaters.  They are easy to
install and they have the added advantage of keeping the internal heater
core warm as well, so when you start up you get warm air immediately.  The
types we use look like a soup tin with a top and bottom pipe connection. 
They have an element inside, and because of convection, they move liquid
through the block and rad all night long.  This keeps the fuel injection
system warm as well , not just the oil like a pan or dip stick heater
does.  There are some very small models that fit right inside the large
rad hose, so you don't need much space.  When I say inside, I don't mean
you push it up the hose, I mean you cut the hose and insert it between the
cut pieces, but it is only about two inches deep so you don't add much to
the length.  At work, we shut the block heater plugs off for the weekend,
and we turn them back on Monday morning at about 4 A.M.  At -40, the
vehicle is ready by 8 A.M. to be started and driven.  Our biggest problem
is frozen transmissions not engines that won't start.  By the way, because
water at -40 is a real drag, we use these magnetic brick type heaters for
spot heating.  On the aluminum of course you just have to sit it there,
but for heating the pan, a frozen transmission or a dif, they work well. 
I notice the long haul truckers here use a thing called a "Tiger Torch" It
is a pipe with a tap on it that has a hose with a fitting for a large
Propane tank.  They blast the engine and trans and diffs with it till
things get warm and then off they go.  Lots of them up north where I go,
and they use them for just about any spot heating problem.  May not be
great on our leaky LRs however :-).  By the way for those who like cold,
my wife's cousin phoned from Alberta.  They had 50 CM of snow in Waterton
with 5 foot drifts and the road to Pincher Creek was blocked.  50 CM is
about 20" I think.  Good Land Roving eh :-)   Cheers Dave VE4PN

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Subject: Universal joints
Date: Wed, 05 Oct 1994 20:48:52 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu>

     While I was getting ready to go to the Bay State Rover Club 
Rally, I discovered that one of the universals on my front 
propeller shaft was shot.  Of course I discovered this the day 
before I intended to leave.
     I went down to the local NAPA autoparts and found an 
identical spider for the universal.  The part was made by Spicer 
and the part number is 5-153X.  The cost was about $10.

-Benjamin Smith
 ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu
 1972 Land Rover Series III 88

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