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From: WILSONHB@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 1994 02:03:39 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Def 90 Hardtop recent post

What is "gel-coated GRP"?

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 1994 02:51:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: "Prince of Darkness Strikes again ?"

Bill Caloccia writes...

> Subj:   "Prince of Darkness Strikes again ?"
> "Lucas Industries, already convicted of selling shoddy goods to the U.S.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> inspection of parts used on Boeing airliners."
>         _Roundel_, "Briefs", Sept. 1994.

So...  this is news??  Oy!

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern)       

          LUCAS    A hard days work and Home before dark!
 

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 1994 02:51:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Flashing Rover Things

Yep.. it's getting just a bit toooo quite around here...

Stephan Thomas, proud Disco owner wonders why his lights don't flash.
And then Baloney, er Maloney, seeing a chance for fame and glory, in a
FLASH of inspiration, tells of all sorts of flash.....

> From:   IN%"maloney@wings.attmail.com"  3-OCT-1994 09:46:45.97
> To:     IN%"LRO@stratus.com"
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Steven asks:     
> Would any of you be (or know) an owner of an early U.S. Disco? By early, I

> meanpurchased in April or possibly May. If so, do the parking lights flash

> (three times) when you lock the vehicle?... I realize the triviality of
this, > 
> but (1) when I get curious about something I can go overboard, and (2)
maybe 
> you Series II owners can get a chuckle at my expense (i.e. humorous
replies 
> encouraged). 
> To:     IN%"LRO@stratus.com"
> CC:     

You blew it Stephan... "humorous replies" indeed!..  So Maloney says....

 
> When I purchased my IIA, my parking lights wouldn't flash.  I changed some

> bulbs and they still wouldn't flash.  I fixed the ground wiring and now if
I 
> turn the switch on and off real quick they flash :-).  
> At the last ABP rally I took several passengers along on the off road trip
> CC:     
and> 
> one or 2 did a lot of flashing.  I thought we were going to get arrested.
> At the last ABP rally I took several passengers along on the off road trip

OK Bill... I'm fowarding this to Steve Denis. Poor boy is tied up (Please,
not the tied up bit!) in school studying hard. (Or studying coeds? I'm sure
thats hard to take...)

Parking lights flash when you lock the vehicle??  Whaaattt??  

Cheers...
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern)       
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Oct 94 08:43:40 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: New Land Rover Club & Gear box troubles

In message <9410032337.AA09480@emu.ocs.cpsg.com.au> Craig Murray writes:
 .
> Also what are people experiances with broken layshafts, as I broke mine,
> trying to roll start my diesel, and I only reliased when I tried to move it
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> I doubt I will get another Series 1 gear box, and I would just miss that
> dip stick!!
Greg,
I lost the layshaft in my series IIA 109 a month ago.  I was pulling out from a 
stop and it sounded like the transmission poped out of gear.  There was no first
or second, third was fery loud so I imeediatly got out of that gear.  Fourth 
worked fine.  I drove back on fourth.

Mine was a clean break and all I needed was a new layshaft.  I could see an 
irregularity in the centre of the shaft where it broke.  Talking to Scotty (the 
local Land Rover Geru), he seems to think that about one in a hundred lay shafts
had an irregularity.  Its always at the same place on the laysaft.

I guess I would recommending having any lay shaft you use X-rayed, and X-ray an 
old intact one during a rebuild.  Of course this would only need to be done 
once.

Hope you get it fixed OK.

TeriAnn Wakeman        Large format photographers look at the world
twakeman@apple.com     upside down and backwards     
LINK: TWAKEMAN              
408-974-2344                         TR3A - TS75519L, 
                       MGBGT - GHD4U149572G, Land Rover 109 - 164000561

------------------------------

From: "thomas r. coron" <tcoron@s850.mwc.edu>
Subject: Re: Speaking of layshafts, etc.
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 1994 12:27:21 EDT

  SNIP - SNIP 
   
   > >
> Greg,
> I lost the layshaft in my series IIA 109 a month ago.  I was pulling out from a 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
> once.
> Hope you get it fixed OK.

  Terrianne - Speaking of broken layshafts, etc., what's the latest
	    on your engine problem?? Did you find out what the
	    foreign substance was, and is it fixed yet?
	    I'm still hoping for a photo when I'm out there in a
	    couple of weeks.

  Tom Coron         tcoron@s850.mwc.edu
  King George, Va.
  '66' IIA 88 RHD
> Greg,
> I lost the layshaft in my series IIA 109 a month ago.  I was pulling out from a 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Oct 94 10:37:44 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Speaking of layshafts, etc.

In message <199410041629.MAA08508@transfer.stratus.com> "thomas r. coron"  > 
Hope you get it fixed OK.
>   Terrianne - Speaking of broken layshafts, etc., what's the latest
> 	    on your engine problem?? Did you find out what the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>   King George, Va.
>   '66' IIA 88 RHD

Nothing new to report.  I haven't talked to Scotty for about a week and a half. 
I'm planing on making the trek to his house this sat to give him some more 
money, which should pay off the labour on the transmission R&R & rebuild.  The 
price of the layshaft will have to wait for another paycheck.  It will allow mw 
to bring home another MG load of camping gear.  Stop by Scottys and you can get 
a before photo of the Green Rover.

TeriAnn Wakeman        Large format photographers look at the world
twakeman@apple.com     upside down and backwards     
LINK: TWAKEMAN              
408-974-2344                         TR3A - TS75519L, 
                       MGBGT - GHD4U149572G, Land Rover 109 - 164000561

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Oct 1994 11:19:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Next Land Rover National Rally

Does anyone know when next year's event is scheduled? I had to miss this 
year's, which could have been avoided (the missing I mean) if I had known 
far enough in advance.

Many thanks

John Brabyn
Mill Valley
California
89RR

------------------------------

From: llevitt@idcresearch.com
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 94 15:12:04 EST
Subject: lighting science - long post, delete if you don't care...

Fellow netters,

Since I'm a confirmed quartz halogen junkie, I've been asked to discuss the 
specifics of European headlamp aiming. It is an art rather than a science, but 
anyone can do it with a flat parking lot, a little time on their hands and some 
darkness. True European headlamps (H4, H1, etc.) typically do not have the 
appropriate mounting points for American headlamp aiming machines so they must 
be aimed by hand.

H1, H2, H3, H4 all refer to a specific style of bulb. They are quite different 
and not interchangeable. The H4 is the only style that has a dual filament.

The lens and reflector may be unique to a specific style of car - 1994 Volvo 
850, for instance. Or it may be a common shape, 7 inch round or quad 
rectangular... Most systems sold in the US are sealed, that is the lens, 
reflector and bulb are a single integrated unit, just like a 70 watt lightbulb 
for your reading lamp.

Others have replaceable bulbs, like your Bosch or Hella fog lights and virtually
all European headlamp systems. The rational behind this is that the lens and 
reflector don't wear nearly as quickly as the bulb, so the high quality optical 
lens/reflector is reusable the cheap part (the bulb), which wears out, is 
replaceable. In addition, this allows manufacturers to design aerodynamic lenses
if desired (early Saab 9000, Audi 5000, Porsche 911, etc.)

Most of these cars have different headlamp configurations in the US and Europe 
(older Saab 900, Audi 4000) although some manufacturers *are* trying to 
standardize (late Saab 9000, Land Rover Discovery, BMW), which may mean that 
European lighting is getting poorer *or* US lighting is getting better. YMMV. 
BTW, I believe that most of Canada now follows the more restrictive US lighting 
codes.

Usually lamp assemblies are referred to by their style - Volvo 240 aero, or 
Volvo 240 quad rectangular, not H4. In fact the quad rectangular takes two 
different bulbs, the H4 for the outboard combo lo/hi and H1 (if memory serves) 
for the inboard high beam.

But the quad rectangular (lo/hi) or 7 inch round could either be US sealed beam 
or European lamps, which would take H4 bulbs. So some people may say 7 inch 
round H4, meaning 7 inch round Euro...

Bulb Availability

I buy my bulbs from Imparts. They seem to offer the best prices on bulbs at 
about $11 or so per high powered bulb 90/100 or 100/130. They also have high 
powered 9004s, for late model Saabs, Volvos, and a variety of other cars and 
trucks. You can reach them at 800 325-9043.

I've run 80/100s in H4 quad setups on an '82 Volvo 244T. No problem with wiring 
or blinding people. OTOH, I have fried several wiring connectors on my wife's 
Saab 9000 with 70/80 and 80/100 watt bulbs, but it uses a 9004 bulb with a very 
poorly designed connector. I recently upgraded the connectors with new 
heavy-duty ones from Competition Limited. These use a much more robust female 
connector. Haven't had any problems since.

I'm currently (ahem) running 90/100s in my '88 Volvo 745T and have used these 
wattage bulbs since the car was new. I run my headlights day and night and 
typically get about a year! out of a bulb. I've got a set of 100/130s in the 
toolkit just waiting to be installed when the last of the 90/100s goes.

Proper aiming of the lamps will help keep you from blinding people, but the fact
is that in some circumstances, coming over the crest of a hill for instance, the
concentrated light from the H4 will bother people no matter whether you've got 
55 watts or 130. Passing can also be a problem. Don't linger behind someone as 
you're passing them. The "hot spot" of your beam pattern shines right on their 
mirrors and into their eyes. Makes them rather cranky. If you see your beam 
pattern heading toward their mirror, just pick up the pace a bit. BTW, trucks 
can be particularly sensitive to this and may take countermeasures you won't 
like. So be careful when passing.

Low Beam Aiming

Aiming is straightforward. First, find a completely level area that borders a 
wall. Drive right up to the wall and mark a spot on the wall directly opposite 
the center of each lowbeam. Then back up about 10 feet. You want the hot spot to
hit just below and to the right of that mark, about 3 inches down and to the 
right.

Here's what the pattern will look like, with apologies to you gui fans:

                              /                               /    
                            /                               /     
                        X /                             X /
               ----------                      ----------

The X is your mark. The hot spot is where the diagonal and horizontal lines 
meet. This will ensure that as traffic approaches, the hot spot won't be 
pointing up into their eyes.

I've been asked why I run such high-powered lights on my cars. Personally, I 
think that most people vastly overdrive their lowbeams in anything but ideal 
conditions. So I like that extra margin of the additional light on the road.

Aiming High Beams

The procedure for aiming high beams is a little different than that for aiming 
low beams. The goal of aiming low beams is to ensure that the hot spot stays on 
the road in front of you and away from oncoming drivers, that's why you want the
hot spot to gradually drop off the further away you get, with the top of the hot
spot falling onto the road some 50 or 100 feet away from the car and to the 
right.

With high beams you don't care about oncoming traffic, unless of course you're 
trying to fry retinas. Instead you care about maximum beam dispersion. So you 
trust the lamp designer to provide a good pattern with good light control and 
dispersion and simply aim them directly ahead or perhaps angled outward just 
slightly. It's a little difficult to do this using the low beam aiming technique
because of the size of the high beam hot spot, but a modified version works.

By the way, you do not need to re-aim the high beams of an H4 (single reflector)
setup. Once the low beams have been aimed, the high beams are also properly set.
The dual filament bulb casts low and high beams onto different portions of the 
lens, providing discrete beam patterns for each setting.

Keep in mind that a quad setup has 4 lamps firing on high beam, since the low 
beams have a secondary pattern on high. Don't re-aim the outer lamps for their 
high beam pattern. In fact whil you're aiming the high beams, it is probably 
wise to unplug the low beams and deal only with the inner lamps.

For the high beams, move right up to the wall described earlier. Make sure 
you're on absolutely level ground or the aiming will be thrown off. Mark an X 
directly opposite the center of each high beam. Now very slowly back away from 
the wall, taking care not to pitch the car with acceleration or to run into 
anything behind you...

The high beam hot spot should grow around that X, but not move away from being 
centered on it. If anything, it should come up just slightly. Readjust as 
necessary.

Fog lights

Contrary to popular opinion, fog lamps are not designed to be aimed directly at 
the ground for maximum illumination or directly up into the air to illuminate 
low-flying aircraft. Fog lamps have a broad flat beam pattern with a sharp 
cutoff.

They should be aimed directly ahead for maximum coverage, with a 5 degree or so 
downward slope to the beam pattern. For best road coverage they should be 
mounted below the bumper...for maximum protection they should be above the 
bumper...you choose. Aiming methodology is similar to that for low beams. 

On older lights I've had snow and ice create a thermal inversion that's cracked 
the lens. Hasn't happened recently though to either Bosch fogs on my Volvo or 
Hella fogs on the Saab (both factory supplied), but you should clear them of all
snow and ice before you turn them on. And don't use snow to clean a lamp that's 
hot (learned that the hard way!)

Other Auxiliary Lamps

If you're adding driving or pencil beams, you know what you're doing.

Checking Patterns

Once all of your lights are properly aimed, you can run a couple of simple tests
to verify. First, find a *very* level road. Turn your low beams on and walk 
about 75 feet away from the car. If you bend down, the hot spot of the light 
should strongly intensify as your head gets closer to the ground. The lamps 
should look lit but not blindingly so from normal height. Once you get to about 
a foot from the ground you should see the hot spot.

You should also be able to see the beam cutoff on cars in front of you. As you 
move further away from the car in front of you, the cutoff should drop slightly.
On level ground it should not be above taillight or trunk level.

Aiming Mechanics

There are two adjustments on each headlamp, one dictating left/right aiming, the
other controlling up/down. These are little knurled knobs or similar, usually 
accessible from behind the lamp. These adjust how the entire lamp assembly is 
pointed in the assembly mounting structure, not the position of the bulb within 
the reflector, which is fixed.

In addition, when you replace a bulb in a European style lamp (H4, etc.), you do
not need to re-aim the lamp. In fact, when you replace a sealed beam unit, you 
should not have to re-aim that lamp either. (BTW, I had a set of Euro lamps that
did have two separate bulbs in one housing with an adjustable high beam 
reflector, but that's a different story...)

American spec lights all have fittings for a headlight aiming machine which aim 
them using bubble scopes rather than beam pattern. Some European lamps also have
this fitting, but I'd trust my 15 years of aiming these things over a machine 
which would not be designed for European beam patterns. (Unless of course your 
parts place which sold you the lights *does* have a Euro lamp machine. I think 
the Tire Buying Place in Elmsford NY did at one point.)

Also, BTW, if you are changing bulbs, make sure you don't touch the bulb portion
of a headlight bulb with your finger. The grease from your finger on the glass 
of the bulb will cause it to overheat and fail prematurely. I believe isopropyl 
alcohol will clean it safely.

The Law

Legally, most European lamps are to be used for offroad purposes only. Sure! <g>
Replacement headlamps come with a sticker right over the lens that says so. I 
have *never* had a problem with either NY or MA inspection or police regarding 
any lamp I've run. (Keep the 8" rally lights covered) Other states and 
jurisdictions may be somewhat more restrictive, PA and MD particularly. So you 
may need to swap out lamps when you go to get your car inspected in these 
states. Or worse. Again, YMMV. I am not a lawyer nor do I play one on the 
Internet. You get in trouble, you're on your own...

BTW, with enough lights on the front of your car, you may not need snow tires. 
Flip the lights on and instant dry pavement!

Hope this helps. Please feel free to repost all or part of this anyplace you see
fit. If you make any money with it, just send me half.

Lee Levitt
llevitt@idcresearch.com

"Disclaimer? I don't need no stinkin' disclaimer!"

------------------------------

Subject: subs to LRW
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 94 17:37:58 -0500

         L R O      1         L R W        0

that should be the score board. I sent off a form for a subscription to 
the "other" Land Rover magazine LRW on 19 AUG of this year.

I used THEIR promo form which states payment can be by credit card or 
"international money order".

So i got a money order in Pounds Sterling from the good old Cnaadian Post 
office, which is cashable at any bank or post office in the UK.

TODAY, i found it retunred from them saying that payments must be in the 
form of a cheque drawn on a uk account or a credit card!!!

What an outfit, I ask you.

Needless to say I will be on the horn in the am to really unleash my 
discontent, I will also call their editor to let him know what abunch of 
clowns they have working for them.

BTW i have been using canadian postal money orders for years to the uk, 
work great, more secure than a credit card order by far, cos there is a 
refund available on them.

rgds

Outraged of Ottawa    aka Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry,            |    Ottawa Valley Land Rovers
Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
(OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4

------------------------------

Date: 04 Oct 94 21:12:19 EDT
From: "Stephen O'Hearn" <72700.3262@compuserve.com>
Subject: Hard Top for NAS 90

Mike Fredette says:

> ...my hard top is SUPPOSED to be here in 3 weeks,...

Please give me your first hand opinion of the hardware and installation, 
I'd
be very interested in hearing it (especially whether it can be done by one
person in a reasonable amont of time).

Thanks! Treading Lightly...

Stephen O'Hearn
'94 Defender 90

------------------------------

From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Re: subs to LRW
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 1994 20:13:57 -0600 (MDT)

Robin "Outraged in Ottawa" Craig writes:
 
<          L R O      1         L R W        0

It's a mixed bag, I suppose.  LRO's editorial policy (or lack thereof)
stinks, and LRW's subscription dept ain't got their act together.
When I subscribed to LRW, I asked for it to start with Number 1, but
they ignored my request and started me up at their convenience with
Number 5.  (At least the credit card option saves a lot of bank hassle
and expense.)

More disquieting news:  LRW is not yet a year old and already on its
third editor.  Nigel Fryatt took over from Jerry Glenwright with no.
8, and two weeks ago, Alan Cade (sp?) came on board.  Alan called me
for urgent help:  in the transition they lost half my manuscript
scheduled for Dec. publication.  (No problem:  I faxed the missing
pages.)  I don't know the meaning of the rapid editorial changes, but
the apparent disorder does not inspire confidence.  I certainly hope
they manage to stay afloat without alienating too many subscribers and
contributors.

T. F. Mills                                              tomills@du.edu
University of Denver Library  2150 E. Evans Ave.  Denver  CO 80208  USA

------------------------------

From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@qvarsx.er.usgs.gov>
Subject: Re: subs to LRW
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 1994 19:31:28 -0700 (PDT)

>          L R O      1         L R W        0
> that should be the score board. I sent off a form for a subscription to 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 29 lines)]
> Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
> (OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4
Outraged Robin,

Ah, the familiar feeling of being outflanked by sheer ignorance compounded by
rank stupidity.  If you really want to bring this to the attention of somebody
who is motivated to do something about it (i.e., has a financial interest) call
the publisher.  The editor may or may not be inclined to take action;  not
his/her department, you know.  Might not even be any communications.

Kind of sad, though, that the UK is exhibiting these characteristics.  I had
the impression that this was the sort of thing that only happened in Third
World countries and American financial institutions.  Maybe they used to work
for British Leyland.

Commiserating in California   aka Walt Swain

------------------------------

Subject: Rovers at the Bay State Rover Club Rally 
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 1994 21:15:12 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu>

     I just got back from the Bay State Rover Club Rally and it 
was an interesting 700 mile trip without at functioning starter 
motor.  (My starter worked until the first time it rained last 
week and then gave up the ghost of life.  I think I'll going to 
try TeriAnn's suggestion of trying to revarnish it)
     The most interesting thing of the event in my view was the 
different type of Rovers present.  Most of the events that I've 
gone had a grand majority of old Land Rovers and a few Range 
Rovers.  This one was different.  Here is an over view of the 
vehicles that were present:

SIIA or SIIB Forward Control (the one was in the Rover's North 
     catalog)
2 US Defender 110s
1 US Defender 90 (with dealer plates)
6 Range Rovers 
'85 German Spec 110
late SIIA xMoD 109 Pick Up
SIIA 109
5 SIIA 88s (including the Badger)
my SIII 88
2 or 3 Discoverys

Quite a spectrum of Rovers.

-Benjamin Smith
 ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu
 1972 Land Rover Series III 88

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Defender 90 success
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 94 21:12:54 -0500

Jan Hilborn <jhilborn@moose.uvm.edu> writes:

>  I have to concurr with Russ for Defender sales here in the east. I've 
> asked a round a bit if, say, oh, maybe in a year i might be able to get a 
> used 90 at a (somewhat) reasonable price and basically what i've heard is 
> that in a year or so i'll probably be able to get a *new* 90 at a 
> (somewhat) reasonable price.

        The common rumour up here is that the 90 is to be pulled in Canada.
        Sales are not there for it.  $34k with a soft top, add $3k for a hard
        top and you are pretty close to the stripped Discovery at $39k.

        Rgds,

        Dixon

        PS.  A site above mine somewhere is having major mail problems, so don't
             be surprised at the delays to responses or the possibility that
             mail may be getting lost.  Though not for fourfold, at least I am
             getting a 56k link in my office later this week <grin>  Time to
             add a new address to the mailing list (dkenner@emr.ca I think)

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry,            |    Ottawa Valley Land Rovers
Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
(OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Top Ten indicators you've just bought a rover
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 04 Oct 94 23:31:05 -0500

Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> writes:

> >  1.  You wipe all the dust off of your tool box and
> >      swap all the metric spanners for English ones.

> Oooooh....I like it:-)Dixon,that's just *got* to go in the FAQ.

        Sure... :-)  Though I never had any metric tools until I got
        the Rabbit a couple of years ago (since sent to its maker and
        replaced with a Saab 900 (had to get back to something semi
        British and the engine was the TR-7 lump)).

        Rgds,

        Dixon

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry,            |    Ottawa Valley Land Rovers
Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
(OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Oct 1994 23:34:11 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: lotsa stuff

Well, I'll be.  I certainly didn't know that!  The two reasons I got an 
Internet address was for the LRO list and the Cognos Powerhouse list.  Small 
world, eh?  Is he a member of OVLR?  Maybe I can get an LRO discount on the 
North American User Conference next June? 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                               

------------------------------

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