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1 Duncan Rose [drose@bt-sy23Range-Rover Diff Oil Level
2 CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR 42Re: clutch plates
3 ludovico.magnocavallo@ga6[not specified]
4 "R. Pierce Reid" [70004.29Land Rovers sighted in sci-fi movie
5 William Caloccia [calocc21[not specified]
6 Steven M Denis [denis@o22Re: whatsit
7 Jon Humphrey [jh5r+@andr13Steering Relay
8 Steven M Denis [denis@o27Re: clutch plates
9 William.Grouell@Eng.Sun.36Re: clutch plates
10 mcdpw@pacific.pacific.ne40Must we nickname the Land-Rover?
11 Steven M Denis [denis@o26Re: off to the national
12 Steven M Denis [denis@o22Re: those little models
13 Steven M Denis [denis@o30Re: Steering Relay
14 "Russell G. Dushin" [dus30Re: Crack in the World
15 Bruce Harding [Bruce_Har18Steering Relay
16 Steven M Denis [denis@o43Re: Starting a 2.25 Diesel!
17 Jon Humphrey [jh5r+@andr20Re: Steering relay
18 Craig Murray [craigp@ocs66Re: Starting a 2.25 Diesel!
19 David John Place [umplac16Re: Steering relay


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Date: 16 Aug 1994 08:50:28 +0000
From: Duncan Rose <drose@bt-sys.bt.co.uk>
Subject: Range-Rover Diff Oil Level

Differential Oil Level - Any Help / Experience

I run a 1972, 3.5 litre V8, R-Rover based, Eagle RV kit car.  This is basically
a CJ7 lookalike fibreglass body sitting on a 3x2 inch box chassis with full
range-rover running gear and suspension.  

I changed the oil in the front diff last weekend, but was uncertain about the
maximum fill level.  I filled via the highest plug near the UJ as specfied in
the haynes manual, however this consumed over 2 litres of oil compared with the
stated 1.7 litre capacity.  However, on the front of the diff there is a second
plug about 2 inchs lower, not mentioned in the manual, is this the max fill
level ? - any help ...

shockers, 16 inch electric cooling fan and a small 1500kg winch.  

This weekend I plan to replace the twin Stromberg 175's with a milled down
inlet manifold and a single big Weber.  This should give better low end
performance combined with better fuel consuption.  ))

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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 09:21:53 EDT
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: Re: clutch plates

I think we are talking about two different pressure plates here.  The
Series II and IIa mechanism (which runs in oil) and is basically repairable
has a triangular-shaped flange where the "fingers" of the pressure plate
meet.  The throw-out bearing rides on this.  For the Series III with the
replaceable (non-serviceable) throw-out bearing made of some [shudder]
plastic resin :-0, the "fingers" are naked.   The confusion is brought
about by the fact that there was both a 9" disc for the II-IIa, supplanted
by the 9.5" for the late IIa (date of change, anyone?), then the Series III
revision in late 1971.   You can't run a Series III plate on the IIa
mechanism, but you can run a 9.5" disc/pressure plate.

Here are some part numbers I have:

Series IIa pressure plate 9.5":
        Borg & Beck 75698
        Vera 75698/11
Series III pressure plate, 9,5":
        Vera 75699
9" clutch disc:
        Arrow 86
        Borg & Beck 52509
9.5" clutch disc:
        AP  NHB 1527
        CEW  51226/36
        Vera  HB1527

Note the similarities on some of the part numbers.  Clutch discs/plates
must be very similar to bearings in that the same number is used across a
number of manufacturer's lines.  This makes it easy to "cross-over" parts.

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

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Subject: test
From: ludovico.magnocavallo@galactica.it (Ludovico Magnocavallo)
Date: Mon,  8 Aug 94 12:53:00 +0100

Test message

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Date: 16 Aug 94 09:53:53 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Land Rovers sighted in sci-fi movie

Folks:

In case noone has seen it, probably one of the best Land Rover Movies is called
"A Crack in the Earth."  It is a prototypical '50s sci-fi movie (with the same
cast and director as the Night of the Triffids).  The movie is really kind of
humerous (when you look at it from today's perspective) and a really
entertaining sci-fi movie (even if you are not a sci-fi fan!)

The movie is FULL of Land Rovers -- mostly Series 1's.  I am not sure what year
it was made, so I can't tell if I saw some II's or IIa's, but the close-ups were
Series I's.  There are some great Land Rover scenes, with Land Rovers dodging
falling boulders (as an aside, some of the rocks were real and the star almost
got killed when a "fake" land slide turned into a real one and dropped rocks all
over the front of his Landy).  Other scenes have Landy's splashing splashing
through rivers, etc. 

The movie plays fairly regularly on AMC (American Movie Classics) on Cable.
This network has no commercials, so taping it is a breeze if you are so
inclined!  I bet Blockbuster video also has it, but never checked.  It was just
on this past sinday, and for Land Rover fans, it's a don't miss.

Cheers, 

R. Pierce Reid

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Subject: Upstate NY: Bambi Bars
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 94 13:01:34 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

> Range Rover.  It was complete with Rhino bars and all.  Didn't
> know that New York had problems with Rhino.  But it might just
> be those wild milk cows.  Anybody confirm the need for Rhino
> bars in rural New York?

	Well, I've seen more than a few deer-mangled cars, and I've
seen a Kawasaki speed bike that was totaled (dead cow in the middle of the
road - bent frame, rider broke his arm and/or collerbone). 

	When they're in season (grazing season) there is a 15 mile stretch of
the NYS Thruway (I-90 from the Mass. border) where they regularly kill
10 or so deer or cars (or both at the same time) per night.  (Personally,
I'd rather hunters got 'em than the motorists, though re-populating timber
wolves would be better than either of those...)

----
	As for '95 disco's: were the 300 Tdi engines introduced in '94 or '95 ?

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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 13:04:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Re: whatsit

Ok ......I figure the repair job on the right front frame horn went like 
this: "Hey! what do we have around here in the way of steel,I gotta weld up
this frame!" ....Let's see...I've got a lenght of old rail road track, 
the end of a coal shovel,a rusty roll of bailing wire ,two dozen bent 
nails,and four square feet of 3 inch armour plate... which do you want?"
"Bring it all and turn on the welder,will ya'? ".......

Ummmmmm I think the numbers*might* be hard to read.......

steve.....

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
"        "-1957 107 Station Wagon          PO Box 61
"        "-1964 109 Pickup                 Erieville,New York USA
"        "_1967 109 NADA SW                13061

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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 13:12:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Steering Relay

Hi all, just a simple quick question. (if there is such a thing)
How do you lubricate the steering relay with 90weight?
The RN parts book sez "requires regular lubrication" but in looking at it,
It dosen't look that easy.
Every thing else seems ok. steering box, SPH's etc. But I can feel that
something needs lubed and the bottom of the relay shows oil seepage.
Thanks for all help
Jon

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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 13:15:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Re: clutch plates

And the plot,like the oil in my swivels, thickens............

*IF* you have a *late* 2a DIAPHRAM pressure plate (no more little rovers?)
which is the one with the little tapered fingers holding the release 
collar,uou can remove the collar and *PRESTO* you have a series 3 
pressure plate....really    
I wonder about the distances between the 2a bearing face and the series3 
release fingers....the plate on the late 2 a being the same as the 3 with 
the interposition of a release collar would have me worring about the 
mechanism running out of travel......

the 2a will take a S3 clutch housing,I believe.......
but I babble.......

steve.....

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
"        "-1957 107 Station Wagon          PO Box 61
"        "-1964 109 Pickup                 Erieville,New York USA
"        "_1967 109 NADA SW                13061

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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 10:18:25 +0800
From: William.Grouell@Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: clutch plates

> the "fingers" are naked.   

> You can't run a Series III plate on the IIa

  That's the point, almost. My sIIa "runs in oil" throw-out pushes directly
on the "naked" fingers. You can run a sIII plate on a sII. When I changed the
clutch, I also changed the fly wheel because I wanted the three dowel pin
alignment. There was a disscussion awhile back about that subject. The sII(a)
has two pins @ 180 degrees. The sIII has three pins on 120 degree spacing.
To put a sIII 9.5" diaphram clutch on a sII(a) you have three choices.

1) pull one pin; This can work but, you run the risk of having the pressure
                 plate be off or slip off center, causing some imbalance.

2) drill for two pins; Requires a machine shop to set up the f' wheel on the
                       mill with a rotary table. The best solution if done
                       right, the worst if done wrong.

3) change to a sIII fly wheel; Identical to the sII(a) f' wheel but the
                               timming marks are missing. I hand stamped
                               them on the one I had.

The flange of the throw-out bearing sleeve just pushes on the "naked" fingers
just like the silly plastic thing of the sIII bearing does. There is virtually
NO wear between these two parts because as soon as they come in contact, they
spin together, with the forces taken on the ball bearing, swimming in the spa
of 90 wt gear oil inside the trans. If you measure carefully, you will see that 
the important distance from the face of the fly wheel to the top of the fingers
is within spec.

R, bg

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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 10:22:05 -0700
From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Must we nickname the Land-Rover?

I've tried to hold my peace but can't.  I know I'm not alone in finding the 
nickname "Landy" to be most offensive.  I feel that this sort of term puts 
the Land-Rover in league with tacky, nasty little beasts such as the 
Daihatsu Rocky and the Suzuki Samuri, not to mention the Isuzu Amigo.  I've 
seen "Rangey" too.  Yuck!  Must we?

In the latest newsletter from the Northwest Land-Rover Group (Washington 
State), there is a hot news tidbit that Land-Rover has actually been working 
on a project to compete with these tow-behind-the-RV and 
zip-around-the-high-school- parking-lot toys.  Actually sounds like a good 
rig, using Defender 90 axles, aluminum body (naturally) and a 16-valve, 
twin-cam four-cylinder engine (a diesel to be available, too).  One of the 
features of the Land-Rover that should be a big selling point to the RV 
crowd (big market in the U.S.) is that you can put free-wheeling hubs on all 
four wheels which makes for nice towing.  Apparently the infusion of BMW 
cash has breathed life into a stalled project.  Let's hope that the 
Land-Rover Marketing types have better sense than to take advantage of the 
already available and most egregious nickname of "Landy" for this new 
product.  I certainly give BMW credit for having better taste.

Jeeps are only famous, the Land-Rover is legendary.  Let's treat it with 
more respect, not reduce it to side-show infamy.  

Thanks for your ear.

Granville
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
[ Granville Pool                     | 52 80" Series I (gutted, project)  ]
[ mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net          | 59(?) 88" hardtop (parts)          ]
[ 2601 Road I, #0 ("Road-I-Land")    | 61(?) 88" Ser IIa sta wag (project)]
[ Redwood Valley, CA 95470           | 70 88" Series IIa "station wagon"  ]
[ (707) 485-7220                     | 73 88" Series III hardtop          ]
[ Land-Rover's first because         | 74 88" Series III hardtop (project)]
[ Land-Rovers last!                  | (?yr) Ausin Champ 4x4 (project)    ]  
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 13:24:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Re: off to the national

oh no.....i hope he didn't put the late throw out bearing housing on the 
early bell housing.....the studs all line up ......*but* the gasket 
surface misses the mark for a half of an inch on the bottom....could this be 
the leak????????stay tuned folks.......and guys?  *PLEASE* don't you ever 
do that.......my neighbor did.....had the tranny out 3 times ...I learned 
some *REALLY* bad words.......

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
"        "-1957 107 Station Wagon          PO Box 61
"        "-1964 109 Pickup                 Erieville,New York USA
"        "_1967 109 NADA SW                13061

On Sat, 13 Aug 1994, T.F. Mills wrote:

> I've been feverishly putting my LR pieces together.  I now have a '59
> tranny in my '66 109.  I hope it all holds together.  I already have
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> T. F. Mills                                              tomills@du.edu
> University of Denver Library  2150 E. Evans Ave.  Denver  CO 80208  USA

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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 13:57:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Re: those little models

Did anyone post about the *REPRODUCTION* series 1 matchbox ?
I can buy them here at toys R us for less than 3 dollars.....it comes 
with the repro. box and all......i hope your find says "made in England" 
on the bottom and not "made in China"

for the folks that didn't get in on Jan's"roverfest"...this is a good 
chance to pick up your own mini rover....its a real boffo piece...no 
gummy man...he's metal in this one......:-(

steve....

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
"        "-1957 107 Station Wagon          PO Box 61
"        "-1964 109 Pickup                 Erieville,New York USA
"        "_1967 109 NADA SW                13061

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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 14:15:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Re: Steering Relay

which style?......some have a bolt in the top of the shaft and another at 
right angles to it in the top side...take them both out,introduce the oil 
into the side hole and stop when it glooops out the top one.....(old)
others you remove 2 of the bolts around the top ring and splooge it in 
one side and watch the other..(new)

I use a trigger oil gun...they are sloooow with the 90wt in them,but you 
don't make such a piggy-mess that way.....

steve......

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
"        "-1957 107 Station Wagon          PO Box 61
"        "-1964 109 Pickup                 Erieville,New York USA
"        "_1967 109 NADA SW                13061

On Tue, 16 Aug 1994, Jon Humphrey wrote:

> Hi all, just a simple quick question. (if there is such a thing)
> How do you lubricate the steering relay with 90weight?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Thanks for all help
> Jon

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From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: Crack in the World
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 94 13:02:05 EDT

> Folks:
> In case noone has seen it, probably one of the best Land Rover Movies is called
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 28 lines)]
> Cheers, 
> R. Pierce Reid

Actually, it is called "A Crack in the *World*", and was made in '64 or
'65 (I think).  I can *vaguely* recall seeing it when it first came out
at the drive-in in our '60 SII 88 soft top.  (Someday I will write up
an account of our Rover at the drive-ins.....).  "The Dah" was in one
of his usual pesky-moods (now where did I get mine from??) and kept on
flashing his headlights at the screen everytime a Rover passed by (as
we typically did then and now to real rovers). Needless to say, the
crowd was not amused, but we sure were!

We've got this thing on tape but I've never been able to sit through it
all in one sitting.....it is boring as all hell, except for the Rover
shots (esp the opening caravan) and the part when they blow the thermo-
nuclear device down deep to bust through the mantle of the earth (they
are trying to tap into a rich source of energy-the molten center of 
the earth).....that approach does not work and they cause all sorts of
trouble for you and me.

rd/danige

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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 94 11:24:24 PST
From: Bruce Harding <Bruce_Harding@ccm2.hf.intel.com>
Subject: Steering Relay

     You remove 2 of the bolts on top of the relay.  You dump 90wt. in one
     of the bolt holes.  The othe hole act as a vent.  Fill until 90 wt
     starts comming out of this vent hole.
     Bruce Harding

Hi all, just a simple quick question. (if there is such a thing)
How do you lubricate the steering relay with 90weight?
The RN parts book sez "requires regular lubrication" but in looking at it,
It dosen't look that easy.
Every thing else seems ok. steering box, SPH's etc. But I can feel that
something needs lubed and the bottom of the relay shows oil seepage.
Thanks for all help
Jon

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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 13:51:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Re: Starting a 2.25 Diesel!

ummmmmm I guess you were away when I had my last Rover"desesel"tirade.....
sigh.....
I don't think you should be cranking the starter for that long...I 
believe that 30 seconds is the recomended time...with 2 to 5 mins. 
between attempts...
1. you *must* have fuel to the distributor pump....see the priming 
directions in the book..
2. you must have fuel to the injectors..break loose the fitting at the 
injector while cranking and watch for spray..*DANGER* they say,as this is 
enough pressure to force fuel through you skin or eyes....take the normal 
precautions! gloves and eye shields etc !
3. the glow plugs gotta work....all of 'em!.....leave 'em on for a dog's 
age, and feel the end where the wires go on and they should be warm(ish)
4. This puppy has to *SPIN* to start....no "ungrunkagrunkagrunka" stuff 
here,gotta have"wirrrrrrrootaarootarota!"check for grounds and stuff 
....the bad connections get hot! so it can be easy to find them...
5. 24 volts will work fine...for a short time...do not crank for more 
than 10 seconds...there is a device that gives 24 volts for starting and 
switches to 12 for running and charging..little bro. has used one for 
years on his MB 240-D...(and you thought Rover starters are expensive?!?)
6. feel free to use a torch to heat the intake manifold...this is common 
practice on larger engines that do not have glow plugs....some 
engines(the old ford transit,for instance) had one *huge* glow plug in 
the inlet manifold....heaven help the fool that sprayed starting fluid in 
that one!(NO starting fluid in the rover,..OK?)

My rebuild started on the 3rd revolution.......but it never ran worth 
beans....20 t0 22 US mpg......not worth the trouble in my book.....(now 
that little Nissan.....)

steve.......

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
"        "-1957 107 Station Wagon          PO Box 61
"        "-1964 109 Pickup                 Erieville,New York USA
"        "_1967 109 NADA SW                13061

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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 15:57:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Steering relay 

Thanks every body, for the help. I think I can get oil in it it now.
 
One note of something I rigged up for getting 90w into the transmission
and it works for the steering box in the wing also.

I took a 90degree brass compression ell, like for a dishwasher, and put
on a length of some 1/2" clear poly tubing. If you take out the rubber
hole plug on the side of the trans cover, the tube fits right in the
fill hole on the side of the trans case and you can sit in the drivers
seat and fill up the trans till it flows over.
 It's a little harder to judge on the steering box so you might get a
little overflow.
Maybe this could make life a little easier for all.
Thanks again
Jon

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From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Starting a 2.25 Diesel!
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 94 10:50:01 EST

> ummmmmm I guess you were away when I had my last Rover"desesel"tirade.....
> sigh.....
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> 1. you *must* have fuel to the distributor pump....see the priming 
> directions in the book..

I already had the injector pump and injectors primed.

> 2. you must have fuel to the injectors..break loose the fitting at the 
> injector while cranking and watch for spray..*DANGER* they say,as this is 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> 3. the glow plugs gotta work....all of 'em!.....leave 'em on for a dog's 
> age, and feel the end where the wires go on and they should be warm(ish)

Since the glow plugs are wired in series, if one don't work, they all don't
work.

> 4. This puppy has to *SPIN* to start....no "ungrunkagrunkagrunka" stuff 
> here,gotta have"wirrrrrrrootaarootarota!"check for grounds and stuff 
> ....the bad connections get hot! so it can be easy to find them...

I have already checked the earths, and believed that it was one of the
reasons my starter motor was cranking over sooo slow, so I added another.

> 5. 24 volts will work fine...for a short time...do not crank for more 
> than 10 seconds...there is a device that gives 24 volts for starting and 
> switches to 12 for running and charging..little bro. has used one for 
> years on his MB 240-D...(and you thought Rover starters are expensive?!?)

Any idea on where I could get one of these in Aust. and how much they cost?

> 6. feel free to use a torch to heat the intake manifold...this is common 
> practice on larger engines that do not have glow plugs....some 
> engines(the old ford transit,for instance) had one *huge* glow plug in 
> the inlet manifold....heaven help the fool that sprayed starting fluid in 
> that one!(NO starting fluid in the rover,..OK?)

How long should I heat up the intake mainfold?

> My rebuild started on the 3rd revolution.......but it never ran worth 
> beans....20 t0 22 US mpg......not worth the trouble in my book.....(now 
> that little Nissan.....)
> the inlet manifold....heaven help the fool that sprayed starting fluid in 

I though it would getter better than that, I know some one that gets 30MPG
driving around on the road, and about 25MPG four wheeling up the bush, in his
series III 88" with an overdrive, so I though I should be able to achive the
same in my 86", since it is lighter.

Besides, the main reason for the diesel conversion is that I was getting sick
of my Holden six stopping in every puddle, or the inconveniance of the ignition
melting half way up a rutted greasy hill!

> steve.......
> beans....20 t0 22 US mpg......not worth the trouble in my book.....(now 

==============================================================================
Craig Murray                                            1955 Series 1 86"
LROC of Victoria Australia                              2.25 diesel (Soon!)
email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au

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Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 21:05:24 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@CC.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Steering relay 

For putting 90wt oil into the trans and diffs etc. there is a unit made
for this.  It is a pump like you get with some hand creams etc.  It is
made for 1 gallon jugs and it screws on to the cap hole.  You simply pump
it and watch the oil in the clear plastic tube it comes with.  Mine is a
marine type and it comes with a screw fitting for putting into the fill
hole on the leg of the motor.  If you cant find it in an auto supply
store, go to the marine dealers, they will have it.  OMC for one make it
and for about $10, it save lots of mess.  I can fill my trans from the
centre seat door using this unit so it is a nice rig for on the road type
work.  I think I saw one on Roger's Indy 1 rig when I met him in Vancouver
lst week.  Dave VE4PN

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