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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Duncan Rose [drose@bt-sy | 23 | Range-Rover Diff Oil Level |
2 | CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR | 42 | Re: clutch plates |
3 | ludovico.magnocavallo@ga | 6 | [not specified] |
4 | "R. Pierce Reid" [70004. | 29 | Land Rovers sighted in sci-fi movie |
5 | William Caloccia [calocc | 21 | [not specified] |
6 | Steven M Denis [denis@o | 22 | Re: whatsit |
7 | Jon Humphrey [jh5r+@andr | 13 | Steering Relay |
8 | Steven M Denis [denis@o | 27 | Re: clutch plates |
9 | William.Grouell@Eng.Sun. | 36 | Re: clutch plates |
10 | mcdpw@pacific.pacific.ne | 40 | Must we nickname the Land-Rover? |
11 | Steven M Denis [denis@o | 26 | Re: off to the national |
12 | Steven M Denis [denis@o | 22 | Re: those little models |
13 | Steven M Denis [denis@o | 30 | Re: Steering Relay |
14 | "Russell G. Dushin" [dus | 30 | Re: Crack in the World |
15 | Bruce Harding [Bruce_Har | 18 | Steering Relay |
16 | Steven M Denis [denis@o | 43 | Re: Starting a 2.25 Diesel! |
17 | Jon Humphrey [jh5r+@andr | 20 | Re: Steering relay |
18 | Craig Murray [craigp@ocs | 66 | Re: Starting a 2.25 Diesel! |
19 | David John Place [umplac | 16 | Re: Steering relay |
Date: 16 Aug 1994 08:50:28 +0000 From: Duncan Rose <drose@bt-sys.bt.co.uk> Subject: Range-Rover Diff Oil Level Differential Oil Level - Any Help / Experience I run a 1972, 3.5 litre V8, R-Rover based, Eagle RV kit car. This is basically a CJ7 lookalike fibreglass body sitting on a 3x2 inch box chassis with full range-rover running gear and suspension. I changed the oil in the front diff last weekend, but was uncertain about the maximum fill level. I filled via the highest plug near the UJ as specfied in the haynes manual, however this consumed over 2 litres of oil compared with the stated 1.7 litre capacity. However, on the front of the diff there is a second plug about 2 inchs lower, not mentioned in the manual, is this the max fill level ? - any help ... shockers, 16 inch electric cooling fan and a small 1500kg winch. This weekend I plan to replace the twin Stromberg 175's with a milled down inlet manifold and a single big Weber. This should give better low end performance combined with better fuel consuption. )) ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 09:21:53 EDT From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE) Subject: Re: clutch plates I think we are talking about two different pressure plates here. The Series II and IIa mechanism (which runs in oil) and is basically repairable has a triangular-shaped flange where the "fingers" of the pressure plate meet. The throw-out bearing rides on this. For the Series III with the replaceable (non-serviceable) throw-out bearing made of some [shudder] plastic resin :-0, the "fingers" are naked. The confusion is brought about by the fact that there was both a 9" disc for the II-IIa, supplanted by the 9.5" for the late IIa (date of change, anyone?), then the Series III revision in late 1971. You can't run a Series III plate on the IIa mechanism, but you can run a 9.5" disc/pressure plate. Here are some part numbers I have: Series IIa pressure plate 9.5": Borg & Beck 75698 Vera 75698/11 Series III pressure plate, 9,5": Vera 75699 9" clutch disc: Arrow 86 Borg & Beck 52509 9.5" clutch disc: AP NHB 1527 CEW 51226/36 Vera HB1527 Note the similarities on some of the part numbers. Clutch discs/plates must be very similar to bearings in that the same number is used across a number of manufacturer's lines. This makes it easy to "cross-over" parts. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----* | | | Sandy Grice, Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com FAX: 804-622-7056 | | Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days) 804-423-4898 (Evenings) | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA | *------------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: test From: ludovico.magnocavallo@galactica.it (Ludovico Magnocavallo) Date: Mon, 8 Aug 94 12:53:00 +0100 Test message ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 16 Aug 94 09:53:53 EDT From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: Land Rovers sighted in sci-fi movie Folks: In case noone has seen it, probably one of the best Land Rover Movies is called "A Crack in the Earth." It is a prototypical '50s sci-fi movie (with the same cast and director as the Night of the Triffids). The movie is really kind of humerous (when you look at it from today's perspective) and a really entertaining sci-fi movie (even if you are not a sci-fi fan!) The movie is FULL of Land Rovers -- mostly Series 1's. I am not sure what year it was made, so I can't tell if I saw some II's or IIa's, but the close-ups were Series I's. There are some great Land Rover scenes, with Land Rovers dodging falling boulders (as an aside, some of the rocks were real and the star almost got killed when a "fake" land slide turned into a real one and dropped rocks all over the front of his Landy). Other scenes have Landy's splashing splashing through rivers, etc. The movie plays fairly regularly on AMC (American Movie Classics) on Cable. This network has no commercials, so taping it is a breeze if you are so inclined! I bet Blockbuster video also has it, but never checked. It was just on this past sinday, and for Land Rover fans, it's a don't miss. Cheers, R. Pierce Reid ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Upstate NY: Bambi Bars Date: Tue, 16 Aug 94 13:01:34 -0400 From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com> > Range Rover. It was complete with Rhino bars and all. Didn't > know that New York had problems with Rhino. But it might just > be those wild milk cows. Anybody confirm the need for Rhino > bars in rural New York? Well, I've seen more than a few deer-mangled cars, and I've seen a Kawasaki speed bike that was totaled (dead cow in the middle of the road - bent frame, rider broke his arm and/or collerbone). When they're in season (grazing season) there is a 15 mile stretch of the NYS Thruway (I-90 from the Mass. border) where they regularly kill 10 or so deer or cars (or both at the same time) per night. (Personally, I'd rather hunters got 'em than the motorists, though re-populating timber wolves would be better than either of those...) ---- As for '95 disco's: were the 300 Tdi engines introduced in '94 or '95 ? ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 13:04:00 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven M Denis <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU> Subject: Re: whatsit Ok ......I figure the repair job on the right front frame horn went like this: "Hey! what do we have around here in the way of steel,I gotta weld up this frame!" ....Let's see...I've got a lenght of old rail road track, the end of a coal shovel,a rusty roll of bailing wire ,two dozen bent nails,and four square feet of 3 inch armour plate... which do you want?" "Bring it all and turn on the welder,will ya'? "....... Ummmmmm I think the numbers*might* be hard to read....... steve..... "HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..." "NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon Steven M. Denis " "-1957 107 Station Wagon PO Box 61 " "-1964 109 Pickup Erieville,New York USA " "_1967 109 NADA SW 13061 ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 13:12:14 -0400 (EDT) From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: Steering Relay Hi all, just a simple quick question. (if there is such a thing) How do you lubricate the steering relay with 90weight? The RN parts book sez "requires regular lubrication" but in looking at it, It dosen't look that easy. Every thing else seems ok. steering box, SPH's etc. But I can feel that something needs lubed and the bottom of the relay shows oil seepage. Thanks for all help Jon ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 13:15:34 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven M Denis <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU> Subject: Re: clutch plates And the plot,like the oil in my swivels, thickens............ *IF* you have a *late* 2a DIAPHRAM pressure plate (no more little rovers?) which is the one with the little tapered fingers holding the release collar,uou can remove the collar and *PRESTO* you have a series 3 pressure plate....really I wonder about the distances between the 2a bearing face and the series3 release fingers....the plate on the late 2 a being the same as the 3 with the interposition of a release collar would have me worring about the mechanism running out of travel...... the 2a will take a S3 clutch housing,I believe....... but I babble....... steve..... "HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..." "NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon Steven M. Denis " "-1957 107 Station Wagon PO Box 61 " "-1964 109 Pickup Erieville,New York USA " "_1967 109 NADA SW 13061 ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 10:18:25 +0800 From: William.Grouell@Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: clutch plates > the "fingers" are naked. > You can't run a Series III plate on the IIa That's the point, almost. My sIIa "runs in oil" throw-out pushes directly on the "naked" fingers. You can run a sIII plate on a sII. When I changed the clutch, I also changed the fly wheel because I wanted the three dowel pin alignment. There was a disscussion awhile back about that subject. The sII(a) has two pins @ 180 degrees. The sIII has three pins on 120 degree spacing. To put a sIII 9.5" diaphram clutch on a sII(a) you have three choices. 1) pull one pin; This can work but, you run the risk of having the pressure plate be off or slip off center, causing some imbalance. 2) drill for two pins; Requires a machine shop to set up the f' wheel on the mill with a rotary table. The best solution if done right, the worst if done wrong. 3) change to a sIII fly wheel; Identical to the sII(a) f' wheel but the timming marks are missing. I hand stamped them on the one I had. The flange of the throw-out bearing sleeve just pushes on the "naked" fingers just like the silly plastic thing of the sIII bearing does. There is virtually NO wear between these two parts because as soon as they come in contact, they spin together, with the forces taken on the ball bearing, swimming in the spa of 90 wt gear oil inside the trans. If you measure carefully, you will see that the important distance from the face of the fly wheel to the top of the fingers is within spec. R, bg ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 10:22:05 -0700 From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool) Subject: Must we nickname the Land-Rover? I've tried to hold my peace but can't. I know I'm not alone in finding the nickname "Landy" to be most offensive. I feel that this sort of term puts the Land-Rover in league with tacky, nasty little beasts such as the Daihatsu Rocky and the Suzuki Samuri, not to mention the Isuzu Amigo. I've seen "Rangey" too. Yuck! Must we? In the latest newsletter from the Northwest Land-Rover Group (Washington State), there is a hot news tidbit that Land-Rover has actually been working on a project to compete with these tow-behind-the-RV and zip-around-the-high-school- parking-lot toys. Actually sounds like a good rig, using Defender 90 axles, aluminum body (naturally) and a 16-valve, twin-cam four-cylinder engine (a diesel to be available, too). One of the features of the Land-Rover that should be a big selling point to the RV crowd (big market in the U.S.) is that you can put free-wheeling hubs on all four wheels which makes for nice towing. Apparently the infusion of BMW cash has breathed life into a stalled project. Let's hope that the Land-Rover Marketing types have better sense than to take advantage of the already available and most egregious nickname of "Landy" for this new product. I certainly give BMW credit for having better taste. Jeeps are only famous, the Land-Rover is legendary. Let's treat it with more respect, not reduce it to side-show infamy. Thanks for your ear. Granville ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ [ Granville Pool | 52 80" Series I (gutted, project) ] [ mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net | 59(?) 88" hardtop (parts) ] [ 2601 Road I, #0 ("Road-I-Land") | 61(?) 88" Ser IIa sta wag (project)] [ Redwood Valley, CA 95470 | 70 88" Series IIa "station wagon" ] [ (707) 485-7220 | 73 88" Series III hardtop ] [ Land-Rover's first because | 74 88" Series III hardtop (project)] [ Land-Rovers last! | (?yr) Ausin Champ 4x4 (project) ] ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 13:24:20 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven M Denis <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU> Subject: Re: off to the national oh no.....i hope he didn't put the late throw out bearing housing on the early bell housing.....the studs all line up ......*but* the gasket surface misses the mark for a half of an inch on the bottom....could this be the leak????????stay tuned folks.......and guys? *PLEASE* don't you ever do that.......my neighbor did.....had the tranny out 3 times ...I learned some *REALLY* bad words....... "HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..." "NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon Steven M. Denis " "-1957 107 Station Wagon PO Box 61 " "-1964 109 Pickup Erieville,New York USA " "_1967 109 NADA SW 13061 On Sat, 13 Aug 1994, T.F. Mills wrote: > I've been feverishly putting my LR pieces together. I now have a '59 > tranny in my '66 109. I hope it all holds together. I already have [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)] > T. F. Mills tomills@du.edu > University of Denver Library 2150 E. Evans Ave. Denver CO 80208 USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 13:57:18 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven M Denis <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU> Subject: Re: those little models Did anyone post about the *REPRODUCTION* series 1 matchbox ? I can buy them here at toys R us for less than 3 dollars.....it comes with the repro. box and all......i hope your find says "made in England" on the bottom and not "made in China" for the folks that didn't get in on Jan's"roverfest"...this is a good chance to pick up your own mini rover....its a real boffo piece...no gummy man...he's metal in this one......:-( steve.... "HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..." "NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon Steven M. Denis " "-1957 107 Station Wagon PO Box 61 " "-1964 109 Pickup Erieville,New York USA " "_1967 109 NADA SW 13061 ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 14:15:14 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven M Denis <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU> Subject: Re: Steering Relay which style?......some have a bolt in the top of the shaft and another at right angles to it in the top side...take them both out,introduce the oil into the side hole and stop when it glooops out the top one.....(old) others you remove 2 of the bolts around the top ring and splooge it in one side and watch the other..(new) I use a trigger oil gun...they are sloooow with the 90wt in them,but you don't make such a piggy-mess that way..... steve...... "HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..." "NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon Steven M. Denis " "-1957 107 Station Wagon PO Box 61 " "-1964 109 Pickup Erieville,New York USA " "_1967 109 NADA SW 13061 On Tue, 16 Aug 1994, Jon Humphrey wrote: > Hi all, just a simple quick question. (if there is such a thing) > How do you lubricate the steering relay with 90weight? [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > Thanks for all help > Jon ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com> Subject: Re: Crack in the World Date: Tue, 16 Aug 94 13:02:05 EDT > Folks: > In case noone has seen it, probably one of the best Land Rover Movies is called [ truncated by lro-digester (was 28 lines)] > Cheers, > R. Pierce Reid Actually, it is called "A Crack in the *World*", and was made in '64 or '65 (I think). I can *vaguely* recall seeing it when it first came out at the drive-in in our '60 SII 88 soft top. (Someday I will write up an account of our Rover at the drive-ins.....). "The Dah" was in one of his usual pesky-moods (now where did I get mine from??) and kept on flashing his headlights at the screen everytime a Rover passed by (as we typically did then and now to real rovers). Needless to say, the crowd was not amused, but we sure were! We've got this thing on tape but I've never been able to sit through it all in one sitting.....it is boring as all hell, except for the Rover shots (esp the opening caravan) and the part when they blow the thermo- nuclear device down deep to bust through the mantle of the earth (they are trying to tap into a rich source of energy-the molten center of the earth).....that approach does not work and they cause all sorts of trouble for you and me. rd/danige ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 94 11:24:24 PST From: Bruce Harding <Bruce_Harding@ccm2.hf.intel.com> Subject: Steering Relay You remove 2 of the bolts on top of the relay. You dump 90wt. in one of the bolt holes. The othe hole act as a vent. Fill until 90 wt starts comming out of this vent hole. Bruce Harding Hi all, just a simple quick question. (if there is such a thing) How do you lubricate the steering relay with 90weight? The RN parts book sez "requires regular lubrication" but in looking at it, It dosen't look that easy. Every thing else seems ok. steering box, SPH's etc. But I can feel that something needs lubed and the bottom of the relay shows oil seepage. Thanks for all help Jon ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 13:51:06 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven M Denis <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU> Subject: Re: Starting a 2.25 Diesel! ummmmmm I guess you were away when I had my last Rover"desesel"tirade..... sigh..... I don't think you should be cranking the starter for that long...I believe that 30 seconds is the recomended time...with 2 to 5 mins. between attempts... 1. you *must* have fuel to the distributor pump....see the priming directions in the book.. 2. you must have fuel to the injectors..break loose the fitting at the injector while cranking and watch for spray..*DANGER* they say,as this is enough pressure to force fuel through you skin or eyes....take the normal precautions! gloves and eye shields etc ! 3. the glow plugs gotta work....all of 'em!.....leave 'em on for a dog's age, and feel the end where the wires go on and they should be warm(ish) 4. This puppy has to *SPIN* to start....no "ungrunkagrunkagrunka" stuff here,gotta have"wirrrrrrrootaarootarota!"check for grounds and stuff ....the bad connections get hot! so it can be easy to find them... 5. 24 volts will work fine...for a short time...do not crank for more than 10 seconds...there is a device that gives 24 volts for starting and switches to 12 for running and charging..little bro. has used one for years on his MB 240-D...(and you thought Rover starters are expensive?!?) 6. feel free to use a torch to heat the intake manifold...this is common practice on larger engines that do not have glow plugs....some engines(the old ford transit,for instance) had one *huge* glow plug in the inlet manifold....heaven help the fool that sprayed starting fluid in that one!(NO starting fluid in the rover,..OK?) My rebuild started on the 3rd revolution.......but it never ran worth beans....20 t0 22 US mpg......not worth the trouble in my book.....(now that little Nissan.....) steve....... "HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..." "NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon Steven M. Denis " "-1957 107 Station Wagon PO Box 61 " "-1964 109 Pickup Erieville,New York USA " "_1967 109 NADA SW 13061 ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 15:57:34 -0400 (EDT) From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: Re: Steering relay Thanks every body, for the help. I think I can get oil in it it now. One note of something I rigged up for getting 90w into the transmission and it works for the steering box in the wing also. I took a 90degree brass compression ell, like for a dishwasher, and put on a length of some 1/2" clear poly tubing. If you take out the rubber hole plug on the side of the trans cover, the tube fits right in the fill hole on the side of the trans case and you can sit in the drivers seat and fill up the trans till it flows over. It's a little harder to judge on the steering box so you might get a little overflow. Maybe this could make life a little easier for all. Thanks again Jon ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au> Subject: Re: Starting a 2.25 Diesel! Date: Wed, 17 Aug 94 10:50:01 EST > ummmmmm I guess you were away when I had my last Rover"desesel"tirade..... > sigh..... [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > 1. you *must* have fuel to the distributor pump....see the priming > directions in the book.. I already had the injector pump and injectors primed. > 2. you must have fuel to the injectors..break loose the fitting at the > injector while cranking and watch for spray..*DANGER* they say,as this is [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > 3. the glow plugs gotta work....all of 'em!.....leave 'em on for a dog's > age, and feel the end where the wires go on and they should be warm(ish) Since the glow plugs are wired in series, if one don't work, they all don't work. > 4. This puppy has to *SPIN* to start....no "ungrunkagrunkagrunka" stuff > here,gotta have"wirrrrrrrootaarootarota!"check for grounds and stuff > ....the bad connections get hot! so it can be easy to find them... I have already checked the earths, and believed that it was one of the reasons my starter motor was cranking over sooo slow, so I added another. > 5. 24 volts will work fine...for a short time...do not crank for more > than 10 seconds...there is a device that gives 24 volts for starting and > switches to 12 for running and charging..little bro. has used one for > years on his MB 240-D...(and you thought Rover starters are expensive?!?) Any idea on where I could get one of these in Aust. and how much they cost? > 6. feel free to use a torch to heat the intake manifold...this is common > practice on larger engines that do not have glow plugs....some > engines(the old ford transit,for instance) had one *huge* glow plug in > the inlet manifold....heaven help the fool that sprayed starting fluid in > that one!(NO starting fluid in the rover,..OK?) How long should I heat up the intake mainfold? > My rebuild started on the 3rd revolution.......but it never ran worth > beans....20 t0 22 US mpg......not worth the trouble in my book.....(now > that little Nissan.....) > the inlet manifold....heaven help the fool that sprayed starting fluid in I though it would getter better than that, I know some one that gets 30MPG driving around on the road, and about 25MPG four wheeling up the bush, in his series III 88" with an overdrive, so I though I should be able to achive the same in my 86", since it is lighter. Besides, the main reason for the diesel conversion is that I was getting sick of my Holden six stopping in every puddle, or the inconveniance of the ignition melting half way up a rutted greasy hill! > steve....... > beans....20 t0 22 US mpg......not worth the trouble in my book.....(now ============================================================================== Craig Murray 1955 Series 1 86" LROC of Victoria Australia 2.25 diesel (Soon!) email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 21:05:24 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place <umplace@CC.UManitoba.CA> Subject: Re: Steering relay For putting 90wt oil into the trans and diffs etc. there is a unit made for this. It is a pump like you get with some hand creams etc. It is made for 1 gallon jugs and it screws on to the cap hole. You simply pump it and watch the oil in the clear plastic tube it comes with. Mine is a marine type and it comes with a screw fitting for putting into the fill hole on the leg of the motor. If you cant find it in an auto supply store, go to the marine dealers, they will have it. OMC for one make it and for about $10, it save lots of mess. I can fill my trans from the centre seat door using this unit so it is a nice rig for on the road type work. I think I saw one on Roger's Indy 1 rig when I met him in Vancouver lst week. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 940817 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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