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From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: 	Wed, 15 Jun 1994 08:05:22 -0400

For all of you socialites out there here is a snippet.

Dixon is in love!

Yes folks he is smitten with on of the opposite sex.

Hope that does not cloud his Land Rover affairs. He says she is 
sympathetic to the marque and actually enjoys Land Rovering!

Cant for the life of me remember her name, I'm sure Dixon will tell us 
all about it in due time!

Congrats pal!

Robin Craig, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Jun 1994 09:53:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Rivnuts

In this thread (no pun intended) about RIVNUTS I thought about my trusty
McMaster-Carr catalog. So I said to myself, let's take a look.
Sure enough on page 1839 of my antique number 91 catalog, under inserts
and shoulder screws is The Rivet nut and blind rivet tool set.
I won't write it all but the kit includes;
riveting tool, rivet nut adapter, mandrel ejector spring, 7 mandrels, 4
nosepieces, 200 blind rivets, 10 each aluminum rivet nuts sizes
6-32,8-32,10-24,and 1/4-20,and 6 each 5/16-18 and 3/8-18. Plastic carry
case included. net/set $84.89
Also above this are blind threaded insert kits.
package quantities from $54.36 to $60.10 includes 100 inserts and setting tool.
Description; one piece with nut and sleeve portions.
Tool draws nut into sleeve.
Installs flush
Won't loosen under vibration.

McMaster-Carr supply Co.
P>O> Box 440- New Brunswick, New Jersey. 08903
Ph. 908-329-6666

That's all I knows, I knows no more.
Jon

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Jun 1994 09:53:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Rivnuts

In this thread (no pun intended) about RIVNUTS I thought about my trusty
McMaster-Carr catalog. So I said to myself, let's take a look.
Sure enough on page 1839 of my antique number 91 catalog, under inserts
and shoulder screws is The Rivet nut and blind rivet tool set.
I won't write it all but the kit includes;
riveting tool, rivet nut adapter, mandrel ejector spring, 7 mandrels, 4
nosepieces, 200 blind rivets, 10 each aluminum rivet nuts sizes
6-32,8-32,10-24,and 1/4-20,and 6 each 5/16-18 and 3/8-18. Plastic carry
case included. net/set $84.89
Also above this are blind threaded insert kits.
package quantities from $54.36 to $60.10 includes 100 inserts and setting tool.
Description; one piece with nut and sleeve portions.
Tool draws nut into sleeve.
Installs flush
Won't loosen under vibration.

McMaster-Carr supply Co.
P>O> Box 440- New Brunswick, New Jersey. 08903
Ph. 908-329-6666

That's all I knows, I knows no more.
Jon

------------------------------

From: Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com>
Subject: Re: Rivnuts
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 94 10:52:27 CDT

jory bell said:
> >1. Typical rivnuts can spin.  There is available a "nonspinning" rivnut,
> > ...
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> places from work) and they were clueless on rivnut details, variations,
> etc. Thanks.

I have bought them from ... let me think, Aircraft Spruce and Specialty, or
was it ... er, sorry, their name escapes me (damn leaky organic brain) at
the moment.  However, I can look them up (with contact info) at home and
post next week (I'm out of town the rest of the week).  Seems I've also
bought them from an industrial supply house locally (look under "bolts" in
the yellow pages).

One technique that works with these guys at the supply places when they
don't know what you are talking about (after all, they only have to track
40 bazillion line items, right?) is to ask to see the rivnut catalog (or
whatever catalog they order rivnut-equivalents from).  The catalog will
have pictures and specifications for all the variations, and then you can
point to it.

James Russell was on the right track when he mentioned using the heavy duty
thread locking compound on the collar area (the "squish" area that does the
clamping) of a standard rivnut before installing it;  I've done that too,
and it works pretty well (can be a bit of a mess if you goop too much on).
Still not as good as the nonspinning kind of rivnut, of course, but pretty
easy to do.

> p.s. Mark, what is an "A+P"

"A&P" stands for "Airframe and Powerplant mechanic", which means that I am
approved by the FAA to work on both airframes (everything but the engine) and
engines of airplanes.  There are exceptions - propellers are special, as are
radios and instruments (ie, I can remove and replace, but not open up an
instrument or radio, or do other than minimal work with props).  Getting an
A&P was a restful year sabbatical for me.  Nice to *not* have anything to
do with computers for a change.

Mark
mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com

------------------------------

Subject: Spring frame bushings.
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 1994 09:03:37 -0700
From: Mike Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

ONE MORE TIME,
	I posted this once but since the thread is still
alive, maybe some folks didn't see it the first time
around. I'm tellin ya folks, this method WORKS GREAT
and doesn't cost much more than the bushings. The air
compressor is the only catch, but surely everyone knows
somebody with a compressor. Anyway give it a whirl.

Howdy,

	I've been watching this thread on spring bushing
replacement and thought I should weigh in on the subject
as I just replaced all of mine. To put it bluntly, there
is an easier way to do it. It just has one small catch, you
need to have access to an air compressor. The way I managed
after much cursing with hammer and hacksaw was to go down
to my local department/hardware store, anyone who handles
air compressors and related equipment, and for $16.99US, buy
an air chisel. These little guys are for the do it yourself
body mechanic who has some serious cuttin to do, they rip
through sheet metal like a hot knife through butter. Anyway, 
these come with an assortment of cutting, munching, ripping 
implements, and the one that applies to our little bushing 
problem is the 1/2 inch punch. It's just a pointed spike,
1/2 inch in diameter and about 3 inches long, with a large
shoulder where it mounts into the air chisel itself. All you do 
is get the appropriate bushing in position, (ie. unbolted, 
frame jacked up to let the spring hang neutrally, rotate the 
shackle out of the way) then take the punch/air chisel without
its retaining spring and mount a 1/2 drive impact socket of
the appropriate diameter over the spike so that the shoulder 
of the spike rests against the socket where the ratchet would
normally be. Slightly smaller than the bushing
outside diameter is perfect. Then lay it on the bushing, lean
on it, and pull the trigger. In about five seconds the old 
bushing will be rolling on the floor. The spring may clamp
onto your socket, no biggie just stack another smaller socket
on it and use the air chisel again. The punch fits right into
the inner bushing, acting as a centering guide for installing 
the new bushing, just use the same or SLIGHTLY larger socket
to drive it in. Clean the spring or frame hole and put a light
coat of grease in the hole and on the outside diameter of the 
new bushing before pressing it in. As you drive it in, friction
heats things up and it expands the metal, causing things to stop
momentarily. Just have a sip of an adult beverage for a minute
till things cool down and the continue till its driven all the 
way in. Once I got the hang of it, I was able to do each bushing
in 15 minutes, start to finish. 2 hours a night for two nights
and I have all new bushings in spings and frame.
					Rgds
					Mike Fredette
					mfredett@ichips.intel.com
					72 Ser lll 88
					Portland, Oregon 

------------------------------

Subject: Land Rover Stamps...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: 	Wed, 15 Jun 1994 11:57:03 -0400

        Nice message Robin, but you missed about six stamps...  :-)

        Bill and I are busily working on a list which we will
        publish when it begins to look pretty complete.

        Rgds,

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Jun 94 09:43:41 PDT
From: edwang@lsil.com (Ed Wang - 7837)
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe me please. I tried couple times and places in vain. Sorry.

unsubscribe

Edward Wang  	(408) GEE-STEP	  Fax: (408) 954-4874

edwang@up171.lsil.com 

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Dixon's love
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 94 13:51:25 EDT

> For all of you socialites out there here is a snippet.
> Dixon is in love!
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
> Congrats pal!
> Robin Craig, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Say it ain't so, Dixon ol' pal.  Just how do you think you'll get that
new 88 on the road now??  (Perhaps you can convince her, as I have my
sig oth, to stand out in the rain and hold tools 'n bits for you while
you grease yer knuckles.....hint: helps if you buy her a new Barbour!).

Her name?  Hope it ain't the same as Dale's "x-goulfriend"!

justgivin'ushit, ('cause I know you can take it)
rd/nige (who else?)

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch Woes
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 94 15:08:40 EDT

Lotsa stuff snipped
> A couple of other possiblilities:
> If the clutch master cylinder has been replaced recently, the master cylinder 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> at them).  A friend had stopped by last summer with a disfunctional clutch and 
> after checking everything else out we found this to be the problem (he had 
> someone else replace the clutch master cylinder).

did that, been there, done that.  When I rebuilt the master (which was the
first stop on this clutch woe road) I paid close attention to this adjustment.
According to my manuals (Haynes and factory, neither of which are in front
of me now) there should be something like 1/32", or thereabouts, of free
play between the master push rod and the piston within the master. (This
leads me to conclude that "bleed-back" of fluid back into the reservoir
-ie past the check valve seal in the rear side of the master, rear when
it is installed, that is-is normally supposed to occur.  The check valve
seal itself works perfectly once you've put a slight amount of pressure
on the pedal, but if a) you releas the pressure, and b) you install the
return spring on the slave push rod/lever ass'y, then the return spring
pushes the slave pushrod/lever up into the slave, and fluid back into
the reservoir.....the net result is, with this spring in place, a first
pedal of fluid, and a second pedal's worth of travel of real clutch.)

Again, there appears to be *nothing* abnormal about Nigel's clutch (his
new clutch....no judder at all, adjustment seems ok) so long as this
return spring isn't on.  One solution would be to get a longer push
rod (and I have not verified that mine is the proper push rod).  Another
would be what was originally (ie when I got him) done (by a previous
owner), which was to put the slave cylinder up within (rather than on
top of) the mounting bracket.  This gives an extra 1/2" or so of "useful
travel in the slave cylider" but it is a pain in the butt to get
the slave in/out if this is done (requires removal of floors and
removing the pushrod/lever ass'y whereas if the slave is placed on
top of the bracket where it belongs then it *can* be done without
either of these tasks).

Rgds,
rd/nigel

------------------------------

Date: 15 Jun 94 17:45:27 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Lumenition;ignition;timing

Russel G. Dushin asked:
  > I am sure were are all (most of us, anyway) interested.  please do.
  >thanks

Ok, here goes:

The LUMENITION-OPTRONIC IGNITION (that's the proper denomination) is
manufactured by
                    Lumenition, Division of
                    Autocar Equipment Ltd.,
                    77/85 Newington Causeway,
                    London SE1 6BJ, Great Britain
                    tel: 44+ 1-403-4334
                    fax: 44+ 1-378-1270

When asking for info state the precise details of your car, e.g.
model, year, engine + distributor type, voltage, possibly model
and year of manufacture of distributor, and whatever else comes to
your mind. Apparently there are dozens of variations, and the prices
also differ considerably. I've just been told that the current retail
price for a Lumenition fitting the french Ducellier 4-cyl. distr.
costs a staggering $ 260.-  Double that, and you've probably got
the price for the V8 version... Oh well, I guess that's what patents
are all about: inventing something, and then cashing in (courtesy of
Bill Gates). Maybe we ought to invent a patent of our own.
How about this one: A Land Rover gear box that *doesn't leak* (:-/) <GDR>

bye for now,

    stefan r. jacob, <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
    LROC of Hessen
    Wiesbaden, Germany

------------------------------

Date: 15 Jun 94 22:34:11 EDT
From: Keith Steele <75126.1123@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: RE:FAQ & Offroad sites

I have been trying to get on the LRO digest without much luck.  I
have tried the lro-digest-request@uk.chunnel.stratus.com without
any success.  Has anyone else been successful and if so how.

I hope I am not violating netiquette by asking this -I am sure
that it has been asked 10,000 times, but could anyone tell me how
to access the LRO FAQ.

I have been off the net on vacation for several weeks.   Two
weeks in California an not a single earthquake - how lucky can
you get?  At the risk of igniting 50 letters can someone tell me
who got the two land rover toys?

I am currently roverless as Rover is in Holland Michigan (390
miles away) undergoing $3,500 worth of refurbishment for the next
six weeks. It was the closest place that I could find that knew
the difference between a Land Rover and a Land Cruiser.  When I
get him back I plan to get his tires on some dirt.

I live near Cincinnati OH.  Some people have mentioned that some
good offroading and camping can be found at the Red River Gorge
in the Daniel Boone National Forest in KY.  Has anyone ever
offroaded in that area, and if you have, any suggestions or
comments?

Thanks

Keith Steele
77126,1123@compuserve.com
'72 Series III 88 since new

------------------------------

Subject: Dixon's love
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: 	Wed, 15 Jun 1994 21:35:44 -0400

"Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com> writes:

> Say it ain't so, Dixon ol' pal.  Just how do you think you'll get that
> new 88 on the road now??  (Perhaps you can convince her, as I have my
> sig oth, to stand out in the rain and hold tools 'n bits for you while
> you grease yer knuckles.....hint: helps if you buy her a new Barbour!).

        The Barbour can wait for the time being.  As for her, why don't you
        just get ol' Nige puttering up the road for a little mud.  If the
        new Barbour worked such wonders on the sig oth, she will come along
        for the ride...  So, like, Nige got what it takes to handle good,
        thick *Canadian* mud?  :-)

        Rgds,

        Dixon

        PS, Our beer is better too...  <grin>

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Jun 1994 23:25:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@CC.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Rivnuts

I wonder if just drilling a slightly bigger hole than the bolt you plan to
use and surface welding a nut to the frame wouln't be a better way to go
than the rivnuts.  I have noticed that some of the LR parts are held on
this way and they seem to stay put.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: 	Wed, 15 Jun 1994 22:25:48 -0400

check list for ovlr birthday party:-

camera with lotsa film to capture the innocent making fools of them 
selves, check.

recorder to get the word for word, check.

bug net, check,

sense of humour, check.

cash for lunch, better be good, check.

strap on rear view mirror, shoulder type, to watch out for Dixon and Ted 
trying to run me over, check.

Poncho, cos its going to p--- down on staurday, check.

Shotgun for the famous rogue Almonte bear, what do you mean Dixon didnt 
warn you about this one, ask Bates about it! check.

Anything else I should take, people?

rgds

Robin Craig Ottawa Ontario Canada

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Jun 1994 22:43:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: James B Russell <jrussell@netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Rivnuts

On Wed, 15 Jun 1994, Mark V Grieshaber wrote:

> jory bell said:
> > >1. Typical rivnuts can spin.  There is available a "nonspinning" rivnut,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 48 lines)]
> Mark
> mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com

Yeah, Mark, Aircraft Spruce & Specialty is one of the ones I was thinking 
of and I believe there are a couple of others.  Used to order bits of AN 
hardware from them (when I couldn't find what I needed at Boeing 
Surplus).  When you get it, I would like to get their address again.  
Good catalog of interesting things.

BTW Jory, if you use the Locktite stud and bearing locking compond on thee
Rivnut, you should be sure to allow it to cure fully before you try to
bolt anything into it.

               James B. Russell   ====   jrussell@netcom.com
                         (Seattle -- San Francisco)            

 

------------------------------

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