>Well after driving 100 miles on my new engine and clutch I decide to
>take a look why it keeps fading to the right when breaking. I backed
>off on the left side front adjusters and spun the wheel. It started
>around smoothly then grabbed and stopped. I removed the drum and
>pumped the brakes but nothing moved. My brakes are servo assisted so
>I started the rig and then pumped without the drum on. (not sure if
>you are supposed to do it this way or not).
You oughtn't do that -- as you can force the piston out of the wheel
cylinder and get air in (and possibly ruin a wheel cylinder). But if
you're going to replace things, there's nothing you've hurt.
>
>All the manual show replacing the brakes pads and cylinders with the
>hub off it it too hard to do with the hub on.
No reason you need to take the hubs off to do the brakes. I think
they don't show them in the book to make the drawings clearer. Big
freewheel hubs might cause a problem in not being able to get your
hands in the right place, but I've never had problems.
>If I have the hubs and brakes off do I go ahead and replace the
>swivel ball assembly at the same time? I don't think it needs to be
>replaced but if it's better to just do it all at once I will do it.
>That way I have a better understanding of the condition of the rig.
If there's nothing wrong with the swivel, don't disturb it. Just put
new cylinders, shoes, rubber hose, springs, and (if you bought them)
drums on, and you should be good. You can easily do all four wheels
in an afternoon, though the first time it might well take you all
weekend, as fitting the springs can be a right bugger until you
figure out the tricks.
David
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