> 2 questions:
>Do they come with any sort of protection for the wires or are you on your
own?
I bought my own, since it doesn't come with any. As Perone pointed out, they
are kind of "car" oriented, so the idea would be to route inside the vehicle
in such a case, and with a Rover, wires get full exposure to the elements
generally - even in the inside of most trucks since they all leak, right?
I used two types of protection:
For leads that I might need to access, or when a loom was in almost no
danger of rubbing, I used that ribbed hose stuff that has the split down
it's length. You can buy it at NAPA or at computer stores, and it makes a
tidy bundle - it's also good to cinch it tight with zip ties. I used it for
inside runs too, but you don't need to. I'm building the truck of my dreams
and I'm sparing no time or expense so I made that choice.
For long runs outside of the vehicle I used a really nice flexible conduit
that I bought at our local electric supply place. There are metal
through-connectors that can be routed through bulkheads or seat box holes,
and the conduit connects to it, making a water tight run.
e.g. - I ran from my seat box to my tail light area using the end connectors
and the conduit, running along the frame, and I've achieved three things:
-My wiring is freakin' bulletproof
-I can feed new wires through the conduit in the future
-My wires are in absolutely no danger of elemental exposure, no matter what
I do or drive through, barring a forest fire or a sea of knives at frame
level.
> Has anyone ever used them for re-wiring a Series Truck?
>
My 109/110 hybrid is basically a fancy-pants Series truck.
It has a V8 and a Defender dash, but my opinion is if you can wire a V8 and
it's guages, a Series truck will be a walk in the park. It's probably the
easiest to wire car on the planet, especially IIa and earlier. I did one
"custom" a few years back in a day and a half, and I think I could do a
Series truck in about 3-4 hours with a kit.
While you're at it, add a GM-style "one wire" alternator and start running
65 amps through that sucker. Best 60 bucks you'll send and you could light
up St. Louis with auxillary lights if you ever wanted to.
I just have a pair of Luckless driving lamps and my ammeter doesn't even
hiccup when I turn them on.
Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC
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