Pete,
I used the generous wire lengths of the Painless 7 cir. fuse block to mount
my fuse panel on the dash, ala modern Range Rovers for easier access (don't
you just love a IIA dash)...thus I didn't really need the weatherproof
feature, but it won't hurt none either. I made a cheap&simple junction box
from a plastic traveling bar-of-soap box...drilled and installed grommets
either side for wire-ways and mounted it in the same location on the engine
side of the bulkhead as the original LR fuse block. By terminating the
Painless leads in opposite-gender terminals to those of the new LR main
harness leads that go to the LR fuse block, this arrangement is completely
reversible and keeps the factory wiring diagram intact, except for the new
branch to the Painless fuse block abd on to various LR functions and
accessories. For those cirsuits, I also use a Painless roll-bar mount
6-switch box for various accessories, much like you do your light circuits.
You might check to see if Painless sells just their naked switch
boxes...would make a nice splash box...or be creative and use something
unique...hhmm...how about one of those plastic 'bottle' containers for
welding rod, for instance?...grommet in the top and bottom for
wires...suitable plate for relay mounting and slip it all inside...zip tie
it anywhere!
JT/ric
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Didn't know who made em, but knew about the expandability. Think it's
great. I have the fuse blocks, and relays on the upper edge of the
bulkhead, just above the heater. It's as far away from the heat and as high
as possible while still in the engine compartment. I still want to make
some sort of a splash guard for it though.
Pete
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Wed Jun 27 2001 - 16:50:57 EDT