Re: LRO: RE: Rear Main Seal Replacement

From: Peter Ogilvie (konacoffee2@hotmail.com)
Date: Tue May 29 2001 - 19:44:07 EDT

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    Pull the engine unless you don't like yourself. Trying to get the crank and
    the bearing support back in, all the time fighting gravity would be great
    fun. I can't imagine anyone willingly trying to to R&R the seal in place
    except in an utter emergency. FWIW Hardest part is getting the cork 'T'
    seals on the bearing support. BTW Get Genuine seals, the cork 'T' seals
    have a bit of plastic that aids in slipping them in and the spring in the
    oil seal goes together a lot easier with the OEM parts.

    Aloha
    Peter Ogilvie
    Kona Coffee Rover
    1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
         from exposure of the dark side.
    1966 109 pickup 'slime' In my garage since '90, finally running.
    1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
    196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
         certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

    om: "Scott Wickham Jr." <urbncby@sgi.net>
    >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net
    >To: <lro@Works.Team.Net>
    >Subject: LRO: RE: Rear Main Seal Replacement
    >Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 19:04:15 -0400
    >
    > which is the path of least resistance pulling the trans and doing it
    >in-place or lifting the enging out to do it.
    >
    > Pull the tranny. You can seperate the xcase from tranny to be able to
    >lift yourself or hoist them together. Use the truck as a run up stand
    >after
    >you get the seal in and see if it leakes or not when your done. Dental
    >picks help alot.
    >
    >Scooter
    >

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