Pull the engine unless you don't like yourself. Trying to get the crank and
the bearing support back in, all the time fighting gravity would be great
fun. I can't imagine anyone willingly trying to to R&R the seal in place
except in an utter emergency. FWIW Hardest part is getting the cork 'T'
seals on the bearing support. BTW Get Genuine seals, the cork 'T' seals
have a bit of plastic that aids in slipping them in and the spring in the
oil seal goes together a lot easier with the OEM parts.
Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime' In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust
om: "Scott Wickham Jr." <urbncby@sgi.net>
>Reply-To: lro@works.team.net
>To: <lro@Works.Team.Net>
>Subject: LRO: RE: Rear Main Seal Replacement
>Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 19:04:15 -0400
>
> which is the path of least resistance pulling the trans and doing it
>in-place or lifting the enging out to do it.
>
> Pull the tranny. You can seperate the xcase from tranny to be able to
>lift yourself or hoist them together. Use the truck as a run up stand
>after
>you get the seal in and see if it leakes or not when your done. Dental
>picks help alot.
>
>Scooter
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Tue May 29 2001 - 21:07:26 EDT