Heat that sucker on a camp stove until it is red hot, grab it with a large channel-lock pliers and sling it on. I goofed up the first one I tried by taking too much time from the stove to the hub. It's definitely cave-man technology, but sure beats wearing out a rotator cuff banging on that thing all night.
Ron Ward
>>> sv@io.dk 04/28/01 04:52AM >>>
Bill Fishel wrote:
> The hub seal race or distance piece ( take your pick at what you want to call it) is easy to replace but I've always had to split it with a chisel.
On should not try to remove it without splitting it. Once it starts to rotate it can be removed. Do not damage the flange.
> I have had good luck using a light smear of grease on the new seal and distance piece for the initial installation.
Mandatory!
>
> I personally won't replace the seal without replacing the distance piece. They dont cost much and the hub is already stripped far enough to do it.
Be shure to have a tube to bang on the new race. It takes ages to ping it on with a pin hammer. A bit of heat (not much) will also ease the fit.
rgds
sv/aurens - just adding my 0.02c
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Mon Apr 30 2001 - 23:14:50 EDT