I have the U.S. tool catalog sitting next to the computer...
www.ustool.com / 18005214800
rivet set #4356 & bucking bar #TP112 (there are others better suited, but
this is cheap)
Give them a call and ask for the catalog. lots of gadgets that you'll never
be able to justify buying.
I use a short-stroke air hammer, .401 shank. $20 from harbor freight,
nothern tools, or home depot.
I sourced rivets from mcmaster-carr. #97482A277 solid, soft Al, 3/16" dia.
,5/8" length. All other lengths I ordered had flat spots on the head, so I
cut down the round ones (it's called detail-oriented, not anal damnit).
source locally if you can... I couldn't.(BTW- they sell sealing pop rivets
comparable to RN for less $$)
The setting procedure is like Peter said. Once you have all the bits, it's
pretty obvious. Then practice. I'm still very reluctant to put rivets over
paint , but hey, all that says is that I should have used a roller... The
teasing trigger dedicated rivet gun is supposedly the ticket for not
screwing up paint- if you know someone who does airplane repair/assy. (and
is crazy enough to let your rover near their tools).
have fun!
-todd
BTW I want to give credit to the folks who supplied me w/ the info but my
archives got blotto'd a few months back... I am still in your debt.
>From: "Peter Ogilvie" <konacoffee2@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: lro@works.team.net
>To: lro@Works.Team.Net
>Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)
>Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 13:44:36 -1000
>
>The rivet guns are for the pop rivets, not the round head type. You need
>an
>air chizel, a bit and a bucking bar to set the round head types. I have
>the
>information on a supplier somewhere. If I can remember where, I'll send
>you
>the info. Haven't tried setting the round heads but apparently its a
>matter
>of putting a 'bucking bar' over one end and then use the airchisel with the
>proper bit to mushroom the other end. Think the 'bucking bar' is just a
>flat piece with a puka the shape of the domed head of the rivet. The
>chizel
>bit is probably an indented rod that fits over the other end of the rivet.
>You use the air chizel to pound on one end and hold the other end with the
>'bucking bar'. That's my understanding of the procedure, someone who has
>actually done it, chime in if I'm wrong.
>
>The blind rivets and setting gun are super simple. Stick the rivet in the
>gun, push the rivet in the hole, pull the trigger and your done. BTW There
>are a bunch of different types of blind rivets. The ones from RN are way
>stronger, and take a lot more force to set, than the ones I bought at my
>local Ace hardware. I've used the RN rivets to replace the domed rivets
>without any problems so far. When I build my 'Sunday' truck, will get the
>tools and use the domed rivets where they once were, however.
>
>Aloha
>Peter
>
>
>>From: "Vel & Maryanne Natarajan" <velnma@home.com>
>>Reply-To: lro@works.team.net
>>To: <lro@Works.Team.Net>
>>Subject: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)
>>Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 17:55:31 -0500
>>
>>Peter,
>>
>>I've always wondered about those rivet guns I see in Harbor Freight. Your
>>post has convinced me that when I replace the cappings on my truck, that
>>I'll be using real round-head rivets and the rivet gun.
>>
>>When setting the rivets, are there any special techniques (bucking bar, or
>>whatever it is when setting by hand), or do you just set the rivet in the
>>hole, and pull the trigger?
>>
>>Regards,,
>>Vel
>>
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