Well, the "castellations"? if they can be called that, are horizontal,
not vertical like on the normal castellated nut. So no, there is no
hole for a pin as it would do no good.
Mark Sullivan wrote:
>
> Yes castellated is the correct term ,they resemble an "old english castle
> tower" with the up and down stonework where olde archers used to fire and
> hide. normally used when a pin is inserted through the up and down section
> to "lock the nut on. Boy I bet that sounds confusing however they do work
> but is there a hole in the main shaft to put the pin thru ?? As allready
> noted it is an odd shaped nut (normally larger than standard ) which allows
> amateur mechanics to tighten down a bit more without rounding the flats of
> the nut ???
>
> Mark Sullivan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Faure, Marin [mailto:Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com]
> Sent: Thursday, 19 April 2001 10:26 AM
> To: 'Land Rover Mail Group'
> Subject: LRO: Re: special tool
>
> Date: Wed, 18 Apr 01 16:06:44 -0700
> From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
> Subject: RE: LRO: Re: special tool
>
> >>whatsa big deal? Do like I did and get thee to the hardware store or yer
>
> >junque pile and get a 12 inch chunk of 1/4 inch square mild steel. That
> >and a hammer or rock, and its a done deal. Torque be damned, tighten the
>
> >thing as tight as you can get it.
>
> >Oh, OK. This level of repair seems all too common with series Land Rover
> owners. People take REAL pride in NOT doing things correctly. I sure
> wish people would quit complaining about how unreliable series Land
> Rovers are. It's not the car's fault.
>
> The problem seems to be that Land Rover used a bizzaro nut on the end
> of the mainshaft on some vehicles. In a correspondence with someone
> off-list,
> I mentioned that my mainshaft had on it from the factory a regular hex-type
> nut, and
> this is what is illustrated in my Land Rover factory service manual. But
> many of you seem to have some sort of castleated thingy that normal
> tools won't fit. (is that a word, "castleated?") Anyway, this obviously
> explains why I had no trouble with the rear nut, as it's a standard
> hex nut size and a normal socket for that size fits on it. I don't know
> if Land Rover wised up and decided to put a normal nut on the thing after
> such-and-such a year, or if they ran out of the bizzaro nuts and had to
> resort
> to a normal nut on the day they made mine. But on mine, the instructions
> simply say tighten down fully and bend two tabs of the washer up against
> two sides of the hex nut.
>
> My point is, if the threads on the back end of the output shaft are of a
> standard
> number and pitch (I realize they may not be), why not simply get rid of the
> stupid
> castleated thing an put on a normal nut? Making a washer with tabs to bend
> up
> against two sides of the hex nut should be easy enough, or the stock washer
> for the bizzaro nut might work fine with a hex nut. I don't know because
> one of the
> the lock washers that came with my first Fairey overdrive was built to fold
> up against a hex
> nut (so I guess Land Rover must have used hex nuts enough that Fairey
> realized
> they could be in there).
>
> I agree with TeriAnn that using the wrong tool can end up costing you more
> money
> than if you'd gone out and bought or rented the right tool to start with. Or
> you may not
> install something properly, which comes back to bite you later on. But in
> the case
> of this transmission nut issue, I wonder if there's a way to make the
> problem go
> away altogether by simply switching to a nut that doesn't require a special
> tool
> (or a bar and a rock).
> ___________________________
> C. Marin Faure
> (original owner)
> 1973 Land Rover Series III-88
> 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
> Seattle
-- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
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