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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 08:55:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Lower gears

Joseph Broach wrote:

> research and am interested in hearing opinions/experience. I was spoiled to
> the low-low gears with my old 15" tires. When I went to 235/85/16's ground
> clearance has been improved, but 1st low is now a little high for my
> liking. Now (as Ray has mentioned), the suffix B x-fer case has a bigger
> step down (2.888:1 vs 2.350:1) than C and later cases. To make up for this
> the Suffix C+ gearboxes have lower gearing (3.60:1 vs 2.99:1 1st gears for
> example). So, theoretically, mating a B x-fer case to a C+ gearbox=lower
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
>   This is  Very do-able and is a fairly common swap in the UK for those
> trialing folks.I have see it done here and the results are impressive.

John and Muddy

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 08:20:51 EST
Subject: Re: Lower gears

In a message dated 11/19/98 6:46:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com writes:

> I'd worry about groundspeed in high range (though it shouldn't be a
nightmare)
> I'd worry about groundspeed in high range (though it shouldn't be a

Actually, as fate would have it, I mistakenly put a series B intermediate gear
in the rebuilt transfer box.  High range is exactly the same.  When it comes
to the low range though, that's when you'll see a difference.  the low gear on
the intermediate shaft is smaller...in fact, it won't even touch the low gear
on the output shaft. 

 If someone's seriously interested, I have a rebuilt series B transfer box
(which I didn't use).  If interested, let me know...

Nate

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 98 09:17:56 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: spring bushings (final word?) 

joseph wrote:

> For what it's worth,  neither the Green Bible nor Haynes tells precisely 
>how to tighten the shackle pins; they don't give a torque setting either.

yes they do. I know for a fact they give a torque setting. At least in the 
SIII bible.

later
dave

 

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 10:08:50 -0600
Subject: Vacuum brake bleeder (SnapON)

So I have a slow leak somewhere in my brake system that I have not yet been
able to locate.   Errrrgh!

I have the truck in my workshop on concrete and I am going through a indepth
search.  I will keep you posted.

My wife has been very patient with the many many times she has sat in the
truck as I instructed her to pump the brake pedal  "Down, Hold, Pump three
times, up"  "How does it feel?"  Ok guys, smirk a little but hold your
comments to yourself... Your minds are as bad as your rover working hands.

I am strongly considering getting the Snap-On vacuum brake bleeding system.
The concept of one person bleeding is highly appealing... As if I continue
to do this and collect more birddogs or rovers, it may become a necessity.

Have any of you used this type of system for bleeding rover brakes?

cwolfe
Independence, Minnesota

"My Governor can beat up your Governor"

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 11:28:07 -0500
Subject: One more time

Following the thread on bushing tightness, if you were supposed to crank
down on them, then you wouldn't need a threaded shackle plate, right?  I
mean, the whole thing would be superfluous.  Just one more needless
manufacturing step (and an additional expense, and we all know how
parsimonious "Auntie Rover" was).  Kinda the "belt *and* braces" thing...
Everything could be accomplished by the nut.  90 ft. lbs (or whatever) and
you're done.

*However*, if the purpose is to have some play, then you need a means of
maintaining that.  Enter the threaded shackle plate.  Run the bolt through
it 'til you get it just right.  *Then* lock it in place with the nut.  The
primary fixing is the shackle plate.  The nut is just there for security.

Bushings are there to reduce low frequency vibrations and such - "road
rumble" - rather that soak up actual movement like springs and shocks
would.  Metal-to-metal contact would transmit that vibration.  (As if the
Rover will bever be accused of having a "boulevard" ride!)  That the center
sleeve stands proud of the bushing is just one more way of preventing
metal-on-metal contact...and the 1/16" is probably an exageration.  It was
described to me by Charlie H. as "the width of a thin screwdriver blade".

The debate continues!  Now, on the subject of silicone v. LMA.... ;-)  

Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 11:43:39 EST
Subject: Re: Vacuum brake bleeder (SnapON)

In a message dated 11/19/98 9:14:55 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
CWolfe@smdc.org writes:

<< I am strongly considering getting the Snap-On vacuum brake bleeding system.
 The concept of one person bleeding is highly appealing... As if I continue
 to do this and collect more birddogs or rovers, it may become a necessity. >>

I have a small air compressor and tank at home.  I wonder how difficult it
would be to obtain a second cap which fitted with the correct connector would
be a simple method to pressurize the system?  

The regulator is adjustable so I could set it down to maybe 10 pounds or so
per sq. inch.  Only down side would be stopping to refill the master cylinder
to make sure it wasn't bled out.

Would this work?  Feasibility?

Got the Dormobile bulkhead back from the guy who welded on the new door posts
for me.  The footwells should be replaced and I realize now that should be
probably been done first.  The old footwells were tack-welded to the side but
firmed welded on high.  

I guess now is the time to go buy the welder that I've threatened to buy and
teach myself (on bits first and then the Rover!) to weld.   Then, purchase the
footwells and get them in place.  

Doing a rebuild is damn-difficult when you have a self-imposed monthly budget
of $150!  Good thing welders are exempt along with anything else I care to
exempt!  :-)

Thanks...
Gerry Elam
PHX  AZ  USA
'63 Series IIA88" SW  "Soldado Sangrando"
'64 Series IIA Dormobile "Humpty Dumpty"  (interior currently in pieces,
bulkhead out)
'73 Series III 88" Soft top "Basil"  (daily driver until it hits 110 F / 43 C)
'95 Disco "Great White"

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 06:57:52
Subject: Re: One more time

	Personally I like the look of silicone but don't think I like the 
reality.
 For me, keep it natural, un augmented, the way the maker intended.
Aloha Peter 

>The debate continues!  Now, on the subject of silicone v. LMA.... ;-)  
>Cheers
> A. P. ("Sandy") Grice

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From: Keith Cutler <keith_cutler@csgsystems.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 10:03:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Spring Bushings

Thanks for all the discussion on spring bushings and shackles since that
is exactly where I'm at in my frame-off rebuild.  Night before last I
pulled the new bushings into the frame with grade 8 bolts and washers,
then last night I installed the shackles and parabolics.  I'm writing
this note to say thanks for the information and to say that Charlie
Haigh at Rovers North told me to tighten both the shackles and the
locknuts to 60 lb-ft a couple of days before this thread sprang up.  I
know this differs from what another mailing list reader stated, but
perhaps Charlie quotes me better prices, too!

Thanks.
Keith Cutler
1960 Series II SWB

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 12:04:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Bleedin' Brakes!

>My wife has been very patient with the many many times she has sat in the
>truck as I instructed her to pump the brake pedal  "Down, Hold, Pump three
>times, up"  "How does it feel?"  Ok guys, smirk a little but hold your
>comments to yourself... Your minds are as bad as your rover working hands.
Been there - Done that!

I've never used the vaccuum system.  My problems have come from; 1) leak in
vaccuum assist 2) improper adjustment  of shoes.  Last year I replaced all
the wheel cyls. and rebuilt the master.  I've also had bizzare things going
on because the master/pedal wasn't adjusted properly.  Since then I can do
it by just gravity - I guess I'm one of the few with that much luck?!

Cheers - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 12:11:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Vacuum brake bleeder (SnapON)

Re: Pressurized system bleeder:

Tell you what I did - cheap, simple and effective, though I can't take credit
for the idea.....

Take an old reservoir cap and drill a hole in the top to take a tubeless tyre
valve. Slather the gap and lip on the tubeless tyre valve with sealer and set it
into the hole in the aforementioned cap. Take your tyre valve tool and remove
the valve from the center of the tyre valve.

Now, when you need to bleed your braking system screw this cap onto a full
reservoir - fill it right to the top.

Now, use a locking chuck, or a hand pump with a screw-on valve end, or anything
the likes and put a few PSI on the aforementioned tyre valve. Presto, instant
pressure bleeding system for cheap.

Works for me - and I've bled completely dry systems, CB 109 masters, front 109
brake systems and all sorts of nasty setups with it.

Total cost is $1.99 for a pack of two valves, and another $1.99 for a tyre valve
tool if you don't have one (and you should...).

               aj"Cheap git - that i am!"r

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 07:17:05 -1000
Subject: Re: Vacuum brake bleeder (SnapON)

>Have any of you used this type of system for bleeding rover brakes?

I do not have my SnapOn catalog handy but if I remember correctly there's is
very similar to the MightyVac.  Basically a vacume pump, some tubing and a
cup with a couple o fittings.
I have the non-Sanppy one and have used it to bleed brakes on non-Rover
applications.  It works great.  I assume that it will work just as well with
the Rover.  Matter of fact, can see no reason that it wouldn't.
The mightyVac is available at many auto parts places (NAPA< PepBoys, Track,
etc) in the US, runs about $30 cheeper (when I got mine) and is very useful
for doing tuneup related work al;so.
Aloha
Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 07:18:55 -1000
Subject: Re: One more time

Thanks for explaining they 'why' Sandy
Mahalo
Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 07:21:24 -1000
Subject: Re: bushings

>the chassis and then tighten the pins or the use a trolley jack with a
>chain going round the chassis and the jack: see
>http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/LWBrst/lwbrs2170b.jpg

Uhhh, what if I don't have a spare head?  haha
Pete

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 10:24:56 -0700
Subject: Re: bushings and bibles

Mick replies...
<<There is another book, I presume the Green Bible is the Series III
manual, then the White Bible is the two volume Series II/IIa manual.
In one of them the 'correct' method is to compress the spring by loading
the chassis and then tighten the pins or the use a trolley jack with a
chain going round the chassis and the jack: see
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/LWBrst/lwbrs2170b.jpg
the book gives measurements for different springs on the different
models.>>

No, I was quoting directly from my green, two part, SII & IIa Repair
Operation manual. This book gives no mention of torques, trolley jacks, or
chains. These carry the official stamp and were purchased when Sid was,
about 4 years ago. What have they done, dumbed them down! Or perhaps the
tolerences in book printing are the same as bodywork at Solihull, eh 8-)

-joseph and sidney (who wears his bushes tight for now)
missoula, mt

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 07:30:32
Subject: Re: Vacuum brake bleeder (bicycle tube)

	I haven't tried this but it would seem to be the cheapest and simplest 
way
to pressure bleed your brakes.  Take an old but still intact bicycle tube,
cut slice it completely through at least six inches from the stem.  Tie a
knot in the long end to seal off that end.  Take the other end and slip it
over the reservoir and seal with a hose clamp after being sure the
reservoir is full.  Put a few pounds of air pressure in the tube and bleed
away.
	Don't know who came up with this idea but it is elegant in its 
simplicity.
 Can't wait to get my 109 back in running condition so I can try it on the
CB master cylinder.  Of course the 109 has been in pieces in the garage for
four years so don't hold your breath waiting for a report from me.
Aloha Peter

At 12:11 PM 11/19/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Re: Pressurized system bleeder:
>Tell you what I did - cheap, simple and effective, though I can't take credit
>for the idea.....
>Take an old reservoir cap and drill a hole in the top to take a tubeless tyre

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Take an old reservoir cap and drill a hole in the top to take a tubeless tyre
>valve. Slather the gap and lip on the tubeless tyre valve with sealer and
set it
>into the hole in the aforementioned cap. Take your tyre valve tool and remove
>the valve from the center of the tyre valve.
>Now, when you need to bleed your braking system screw this cap onto a full
>reservoir - fill it right to the top.
>Now, use a locking chuck, or a hand pump with a screw-on valve end, or

anything
>the likes and put a few PSI on the aforementioned tyre valve. Presto, instant
>pressure bleeding system for cheap.
>Works for me - and I've bled completely dry systems, CB 109 masters, front
>reservoir - fill it right to the top.
109
>brake systems and all sorts of nasty setups with it.
>Total cost is $1.99 for a pack of two valves, and another $1.99 for a tyre
>Works for me - and I've bled completely dry systems, CB 109 masters, front
>reservoir - fill it right to the top.
valve

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 07:31:53
Subject: Re: Vacuum brake bleeder (bicycle tube)

	I haven't tried this but it would seem to be the cheapest and simplest 
way
to pressure bleed your brakes.  Take an old but still intact bicycle tube,
cut slice it completely through at least six inches from the stem.  Tie a
knot in the long end to seal off that end.  Take the other end and slip it
over the reservoir and seal with a hose clamp after being sure the
reservoir is full.  Put a few pounds of air pressure in the tube and bleed
away.
	Don't know who came up with this idea but it is elegant in its 
simplicity.
 Can't wait to get my 109 back in running condition so I can try it on the
CB master cylinder.  Of course the 109 has been in pieces in the garage for
four years so don't hold your breath waiting for a report from me.
Aloha Peter

>Take an old reservoir cap and drill a hole in the top to take a tubeless tyre
>valve. Slather the gap and lip on the tubeless tyre valve with sealer and
set it
>into the hole in the aforementioned cap. Take your tyre valve tool and remove
>the valve from the center of the tyre valve.

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From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Thu, 19 Nov 1998 19:00:11 +0100
Subject: Volvo engines

There has been some interest in th elist for Volvo engines and adapters for
those. I promised to try and find out more about this. In the Swedish Land
Rover club´s journal 1/98 Volvo engines are discussed. There is a guy,
Torbjörn Jonsson, in Umeå, Sweden, (I think he has got some kind of
workshop) that has made adapterplates for several of the Volvo engines.
Most videly used have been the VW/Volvo D24 6-cylinder diesel. They have
some adapterplates for this engine for sale (3000 SEK + VAT = 230£ + VAT,
price due to 980630 so maybe a bit higher now). They have also tested to
use the Volvo B21 engine (4-cylinder, petrol) which they claim to be
powerful and cheap to bouth buy and use. For those of you who are
interested in Volvo engines I suggest to phone Torbjörn Jonsson (+46 0934
310 18). 

Hope this helps,

Peter

Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Member #1379 Swedish Land Rover Club
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
Sweden
phone/fax +46 18 39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

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From: Carl Petter Swensson <cepe@online.no>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 19:06:44 +0100
Subject: Re[2]: Bushings 

> From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
> >OK. Then my question is, what does *the book* specify? Could anyone with 
> >*the book* please specify?
> buy the book. Its cheap, and useful. Just buy it. 

Then: Which book? Title? ISBN numner?
> >I have tightend my nuts to approx. 90ft-lb as someone on this list 
> >indicated, but I ma following this thread closely.
> see? you really *do* need it...
> dave/g.HELL

Maybe its difficult to get *the book* in Norway. Anyone that would care
to quote any torque specifications in th emean time?

--cepe

-- 
Carl P. Swensson	internet: cepe@online.no	
			telephone: +47-928 937 40
                        telefax:   +47-929 737 40
I speak for myself. I will tell you when I speak for someone else

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 11:23:18 -0800
Subject: Re: bushings

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 23:00:53 EST
Subject: Re: bushings

In a message dated 98-11-18 15:19:32 EST, you write:

<< Tighten
 the shackle pins and locking nuts. If they are tightened prior to lowering
 vehicle to the ground, premature failure of the bushes may occur."
 >>

>This sentence would seem to imply that the bushings are intended to be held
solidly by the shackles.

According to my copy of the factory workshop manual for the Series III
(which I purchased at the time I bought my Series III new in 1973), the
recomended procedure to follow when fitting new springs is to install all
the appropriate bolts, washers, nuts, etc. when the vehicle is resting on
stands, but not to tighten them down.  When everything is in place, the
wheels and tires should be installed and the vehicle lowered to the ground.
There should be full fuel in the tank, and if practical, a driver in the
driver's seat.  At that point, all the spring and shackle fasteners should
be tightened to the torque figures spelled out in the manual.

If the spring and shackle fasteners are not torqued properly, side-to-side
play of the springs and shackles can occur as the vehicle works its way over
rough ground or rounds corners on smooth roads.  If not corrected, this play
will result in premature wearing of the bolts and inside surfaces of the
bushings.  If the play is extreme, the shock-loading as the springs bang
back and forth in the shackles will fatigue the shackles themselves, and has
been known to result in shackle cracks and even failure. The bushings play a
role in the "ride" of the vehicle, and in the effectiveness of the spring
action.  They also play a role in how the vehicle handles.  If the fastners
are not tightened to Land Rover's specifications, the vehicle will not ride,
handle, and, if bushing and bolt wear is allowed to progress, even track the
way the designers intended.

As others have correctly stated, torquing down the spring and shackle
fasteners prior to lowering the vehicle to the ground will result in eary
failure of the bushings as they will then be under a constant, twisting
"load" which will quickly cause the rubber to fail.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: "BROWN DAVID E (DAVE)" <debrown@srp.gov>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 13:04:46 -0700
Subject: Allignment on a IIa

Hi all, I miss reading the digests regularly a LOT but must sneak away to do
at anonymously, since my employer has given me the "official warning
bla-bla-bla" regarding appropriate use of corporate email. :-(

Anyway... I have a question that I'd like someone to answer directly to me,
since I'm about a month behind in scanning the digests.

Q: According to the book, there's 1/16" difference (longer in the rear -
toe-in) for front steering alignment on a IIa. Where is this measurement
taken from? Touching front and back inside edge of the steel rim? center of
the tyre (front and rear tyre surface)? Where??? Anyone know the "degrees"
to tell an alignment shop if I take it in?

Thanks for responding directly!
Dave...

Thank you
Dave Brown,  <http://www.srp.gov/> AM/FM
Phone:  602-236-3544  Fax:  602-236-2303
Hours: 7:00 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. Mon-Thurs  AWW: Off Fridays
E-mail:   <mailto:debrown@srp.gov> debrown@srp.gov

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 98 09:44:29 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: HD chassis 

>>4/ there will be a thick seam down the center of the longitudinals. 

actually this is just a consequence of the way they are made. i don't know when 
it started but the frames are no longer wleded together out of four flat plates 
like the old IIA's and SIII's here in the States. I bleieve late SIII's up to 
the current models all have chassis made from 2 stamped C-channel members, 
welded together to form a box. hence the seam.

also makes things fit togehter better, not being handmade and all that.

later
dave

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 98 15:02:55 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: One more time 

>Thanks for explaining they 'why' Sandy 

great. except he is wrong. follow sandy's directions and you will have 
problems. I personally guarantee it. Sorry Sandy but you are wrong on this 'un 
mate.

later
dave

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 98 14:52:36 -0500
Subject: Re: One more time 

>Following the thread on bushing tightness, if you were supposed to crank 
>down on them, then you wouldn't need a threaded shackle plate, right? 

wrong. this would not result in a set up strong enough to withstand the 
level of punishment LR's were designed to take.

>Everything could be accomplished by the nut.  90 ft. lbs (or whatever) and 
>you're done.

until it starts shaking aprt and wearing oval holes in the shackle plates. 
Won't happen when they are threaded together.

>  Run the bolt through it 'til you get it just right.  *Then* lock it in 
>place with the nut.  The primary fixing is the shackle plate.  The nut is 
>just there for security.

baloney Sandy. You are wrong on this one. The nut *is* there for security. 
you're clearance? well, lessee how that holds up under reasoning:

1. since the nut is a nyloc nut, your method would work just as well with or 
without the threaded shackle. you are not relying on the double nut to keep the 
shackle pin from coming undone.

2. Using your reasoning, the pin would be free to slide back and forth and the 
plates would be moving independent of each other, wearing grooves into the pin 
and wearing out the bish inner sleeve. I have seen the results of this and it 
aint pretty.

3. *Nowhere* in any book is it indicated that one should leave any clearance 
between the shackle pin and the end of the bushing inner sleeve.

> That the center sleeve stands proud of the bushing is just one more way of 
>preventing metal-on-metal contact.

eh? this makes no sense.

later
dave

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 17:04:08
Subject: more od vent

>That is what I used on my overdrive
>and x-fer case/tranny. I ran one line from the od, put a tee in for the
>x-fer/tranny, and ran the tube to the bulkhead in the engine
>compartment, where it has a small fuel filter to keep dust out of the
>line. Works great.

I didn't know that more than one vent was needed. I thought that only the
trans. had to have this extra vent. Are two or even three better ( od,
trans and xfer case)? 

Jim Wolf

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 14:40:20 -0800
Subject: Re: more od vent

At the time I put the breathers in I didn't know that the x-fer case was
vented through the tranny vent hole, so it got its own vent. You don't
need to put one in the x-fer case, although it can't hurt any.
Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

James Wolf wrote:
= 
= >That is what I used on my overdrive
= >and x-fer case/tranny. I ran one line from the od, put a tee in for
the
= >compartment, where it has a small fuel filter to keep dust out of the
= >line. Works great.
 
= I didn't know that more than one vent was needed. I thought that only
the
= trans. had to have this extra vent. Are two or even three better ( od,
= trans and xfer case)?

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 18:51:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Allignment on a IIa

"BROWN DAVID E (DAVE)" wrote:

> Hi all, I miss reading the digests regularly a LOT but must sneak away to do
> at anonymously, since my employer has given me the "official warning
> bla-bla-bla" regarding appropriate use of corporate email. :-(
> Anyway... I have a question that I'd like someone to answer directly to me,
> since I'm about a month behind in scanning the digests.
> Q: According to the book, there's 1/16" difference (longer in the rear -
> toe-in) for front steering alignment on a IIa. Where is this measurement
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> Thank you
> Dave Brown,

Don't confuse alignment with toe-in. What you are talking about is toe-in and is
measured in fractions of an inch or millimeters. Tell your alignment shop you
want 1/16  toe-in and they will know exactly what you are talking about.
The alignment of most solid axle vehicles is fixed. This is refered to as castor
and camber, castor being the angle of the pivot point in a fore and aft
direction and camber being the angle in side ways direction. If either of these
is out of spec you need new swivel pin bearings and bushings which you would
probably have figured out by the time you were thinking of an alignment anyway.
Many unscrupulous shops might charge you for a full alignment even if  it is
totally useless.
    John and Muddy

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From: INDIO2 <Indio2@cris.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 18:35:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: spring bushings

The shackle design is a compromise - it does some things better than
others.  The leaf spring on the Series needs to extend as it flattens out
and so the shackle is designed to let this happen by pivoting where it
attaches to the frame and spring end.   Unfortunately the shackle
introduces a certain amount of side to side deflection which can be
minimized in various ways.  Urethane bushings can be used and some people
even weld a piece of steel tubing between the shackle plates - this keeps
the plates parallel and therefore the remaining side deflection is mainly
a result of the bushing flex. 

If the Rover manual recommends cranking down hard on the shackle nuts then
cross that part out.  Those rubber bushings are very thin - especially
compared to other 4x4s.  Even if the shackle nuts are tightened while the
springs are under load the rubber will be hard pressed to have enough
elasticity to accept the full motion of the shackles - especially under
severe off-road use.  The rubber in the bushings will be unduly stressed
and because they will be acting directly against the spring movement the
ride will suffer.  I suspect under the extreme stress the shackle bolts
will still end up rotating in the sleeves to allow the springs to flex.

The bushings are there to isolate road vibration and allow some flex as
the springs go through motion - not to be an active part of the
suspension.  Let the leaf springs absorb the impacts and the shock
absorbers dampen the oscillations - if the shackle bolts are over torqued
the result will be a lousy ride and premature bushing failure.

I recommend coating the shackle bolts with some good synthetic grease
before installing.  Then tighten with nylon lock nuts until the assembly
is secure while insuring that the shackles can still swing without too
much resistance.

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III

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From: Don Fee <DandY@saltspring.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 17:57:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Vacuum brake bleeder (bicycle tube)

Peter suggested:
>I haven't tried this but it would seem to be the cheapest and simplest 
>way to pressure bleed your brakes.  Take an old but still intact bicycle tube, 
cut slice it  >completely through at least six inches from the stem.  Tie a 
knot in the long end to seal off >that end.  Take the other end and slip it 
over the reservoir and seal with a hose clamp after >being sure the reservoir 
is 
full.  Put a few pounds of air pressure in the tube and bleed >away.
-- 
Don adds:
And if you put a few ounces of fluid in the tube and hook the valve end
up, you can avoid that empty reservoir on the last wheel cylinder.

Cheers,
Don Fee  

1968 series IIA 88"  (our DandY Landy)
1967 series IIA 109" s/w Safari (our yard sculpture)

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From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 22:39:01 -0600
Subject: Welder

Hi Gerry,
  If your searching for a good welder you should be sure to get one that
has a variable heat setting not the 4 setting switch but the infinate
setting one.  I heard that builders squares sold one.   I use a Miller
cricket myself but often wish I had more heat settings.  I also use .030
flux core wire not the .035 wire so that I have more control of the
heat.

Hope that helps you find a good welder..

Regards,
  Rob Davis_Chicago

>.

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 23:30:04 EST
Subject: Re: spring bushings

In a message dated 98-11-19 18:37:30 EST, you write:

 I recommend coating the shackle bolts with some good synthetic grease
 before installing.  Then tighten with nylon lock nuts until the assembly
 is secure while insuring that the shackles can still swing without too
 much resistance.
  >>
If the bushings were meant to work in this way they would have been supplied
with grease fittings. (We aren't dealing with jeeps here you know?)
Study the kinematics of the shackle design and you find the motion of the pins
as related to the spring eyes is not as great as it may seem. The rubber in
the bushings have plenty of compliance to accept the distortion caused in the
course of the range of motion and survive as long as they return to a neutral
position in normal ride and load situations.  Leaving the bushings loose will
result in rapid excessive wear of the shackle pins and bushings.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 21:40:02 +1100
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Series_Disasembly.=A0_Accident_Repair.?=

Peter Hope wrote:
>Going to sandblast the frames.  I was then thinking of using
>POR-15 on the frames, and then reskin them.  I think this
>may provide a good barrier between the two metals.

Pete,
I was flipping through a ships chandler's catalogue (Whitworths in
Australia) and I came across a reference to "Duralac Jointing
Compound" for use between dissimilar metals.

Check out your local boating suppliers.

Ron Beckett

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