Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: Kuhl Dennis <Dennis.Kuhl@hvr.siemens.de>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 13:14:18 +0200
Subject: Disc brakes for SIII?

HI 

I own a series 3 109 build in 1980. I fitt a trailer hook an want to pull a
horse trailer.
I found the fittet drum brakes very hard to adjust and hard do use it
sensitive. 
I wonder if anyone has tryed to convert the front axel to a disc braking
system.

I would be thankfull for any information about this.

  Tschau 
		Dennis Kuhl
		SIII 109 SW
		SANTANA

		

------------------------------

From: Ian Stuart <ian.stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 14:12:20 +0100
Subject: Re: Disc brakes for SIII?

Kuhl Dennis wrote:
> HI
> I own a series 3 109 build in 1980. I fitt a trailer hook an want to pull a
> horse trailer.
> I found the fittet drum brakes very hard to adjust and hard do use it
> sensitive.
> I wonder if anyone has tryed to convert the front axel to a disc braking
> system.

The answer is "not easy"

Generally speaking you end up having to change most of the axel!

HAve you thought of the 2.6 or Stage 1 drums?

-- 
Ian Stuart
Medicine & Veterinary Medicine Computing Support
The University of Edinburgh

              http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/

LandRovers - a 50-year-old stop-gap that has become the most successful 
             4x4 production vehicle in the world.

------------------------------

From: andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 14:26:11 +0100
Subject: Re: Disc brakes for SIII?

In message <bulk.7601.19980525041219@Land-Rover.Team.Net>, Kuhl Dennis
<Dennis.Kuhl@hvr.siemens.de> writes
>HI 
>I own a series 3 109 build in 1980. I fitt a trailer hook an want to pull a
>horse trailer.
>I found the fittet drum brakes very hard to adjust and hard do use it
>sensitive. 
>I wonder if anyone has tryed to convert the front axel to a disc braking
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
>               SIII 109 SW
>               SANTANA

It is possible to fit range rover axles under a leaf spring model. There was
an article in LRO about it a couple of years ago. What you have to do is 
remove all of the coil spring fittings etc carefully and replace them with 
fittings of a leaf spring axle easier said than done but it is a possibility.
-- 
andy Smith

------------------------------

From: gruno@att.net.hk (Keith Addison)
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 21:49:47 +0800 (HKT)
Subject: Re: Disc brakes for SIII?

>HI
>I own a series 3 109 build in 1980. I fitt a trailer hook an want to pull a
>horse trailer.
>I found the fittet drum brakes very hard to adjust and hard do use it
>sensitive.
>I wonder if anyone has tryed to convert the front axel to a disc braking
>system.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
>                SIII 109 SW
>                SANTANA

Hi Dennis

Check out TIConsole (http://www.ticonsole.nl/parts/dicsbrks/disc.htm),
better known for parabolic springs (I have no connection with them).

All best

Keith Addison
Lantau Island
Hong Kong
1973 Series III Military Lightweight

TIConsole

Disc brakes for Series Land Rovers

  We use a two barrel caliper on the front axle. The support mount can be
bolted-on to the swivel pin housing without major changes. The caliper fits
to the support with two steel sliding bars. All the necessary bolts and
washers are supplied. The brake pads are easy to get elsewhere, but we
supply them, too.

Hubs

  The hubs do not differ much from the standard ones. The wheel bearings,
however, are standard just as the stubs (not supplied). The freewheel hubs
will fit in the usual way. Even standard wheels can be used! This means
that it is also possible to fit these hubs on the rear axle as well
(calipers for the rear axle are being tested).

Discs

  The discs are 260 mm in diameter and are 16 mm thick. The disc fits to
the rear side of the hub and is secured with 6 bolts.

One axle set contains:

        2 Calipers + supports, bolts and washers
        2 Wheel hubs, without bearings,
        hub flanges and wheel nuts
        2 Discs + nuts and washers
        2 brake hoses

  NB: The protection shield is not available and is no part of the set.

------------------------------

From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 16:42:05 +0200
Subject: Re: Another toy for people with time on their hands... Little LR Cont

Christopher sez:

>Ah, but be careful:  There was an author/philosopher in the US named Ayn
>Rand.  Seems like few people are neutral about her, so that sticker
>could result in some resentful actions in this corner of the
>world--those that hate her REALLY hate her.

I've read _Atlas_Shrugged_, more than once, and I find very little in there
that I disagree with. And it *is* fun to open the book in two places, the
start and the end of the soliloquy, and show people that it's thicker than
most cowboy novels :-)

Anyway, it's the big yellow money pit that's the Rand-Lover, not me...
"Rolls & flows through the holes in the pockets of your clothes"

W 

------------------------------

From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 08:38:25 -0500
Subject: RE: axle lubrication SIII 88"

Are we going to start debate again on this grease Vs oil  matter?
Wasn't it settled?
Each and every rover is different and everybody is right.
That was the Salomonic ruling.

LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ
JCCCSA Departamento Legal
lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
lgutierr@hotmail.com

X-deleted-
	[Attachment WINMAIL.DAT removed, was 56 lines.]	

------------------------------

From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 08:38:25 -0500
Subject: RE: axle lubrication SIII 88"

Are we going to start debate again on this grease Vs oil  matter?
Wasn't it settled?
Each and every rover is different and everybody is right.
That was the Salomonic ruling.

LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ
JCCCSA Departamento Legal
lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
lgutierr@hotmail.com

X-deleted-
	[Attachment WINMAIL.DAT removed, was 56 lines.]	

------------------------------

From: Ian Stuart <ian.stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 16:21:42 +0100
Subject: Re: Disc brakes for SIII?

Keith Addison wrote:
> One axle set contains:
>         2 Calipers + supports, bolts and washers
>         2 Wheel hubs, without bearings,
>         hub flanges and wheel nuts
>         2 Discs + nuts and washers
>         2 brake hoses

One disk set costs 1,600.00 NLG - this is 500GBP.

For that sort of money, you could probably buy an old rangerover chassis
& axels and go for coils & disks all round!

-- 
Ian Stuart
Medicine & Veterinary Medicine Computing Support
The University of Edinburgh

              http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/

LandRovers - a 50-year-old stop-gap that has become the most successful 
             4x4 production vehicle in the world.

------------------------------

From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 10:47:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Disc brakes for SIII?

>>>>> "andy" == andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co.uk> writes:

    andy> It is possible to fit range rover axles under a leaf spring
    andy> model. There was an article in LRO about it a couple of years
    andy> ago. What you have to do is remove all of the coil spring
    andy> fittings etc carefully and replace them with fittings of a
    andy> leaf spring axle easier said than done but it is a
    andy> possibility.

I know that one of the websites I saw bandied about recently had a
disc-brake conversion for Series machines on it.  It was with the 
parabolics and the Spanish-built overdrive units.  I've lost the
bookmark somwhere in a maze of twisty HTML...
								-MM

------------------------------

	[ Original post was HTML ]
From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 09:42:35 -0500
Subject: E-mail trouble, again

<html><div>This is a test e-mail</div>
<div>I'm having trouble, once again, with e-mail.</div>
<div>It seems that they get sent twice.</div>
<div>If this mail appears just once, then it is solved.</div>
<div>Sorry for the annoyance.</div>
<BR>

<font face="Baskerville Old Face" size=5><b>LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ<br>
</font></b><font face="Book Antiqua, Bookman" size=3>Departamento Legal -
JCCCSA<br>
</font><font face="Bell MT">lgutierr@jccr.co.cr<br>
lgutierr@hotmail.com<br>
</font></html>

------------------------------

From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 18:09:40 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: 6 cyl diesels in series LRs ?

I read this thread with interest.

TeriAnn Wrote:

> Where did you get your IVECO conversion parts from or were they custom made

A IVECO medium-size van has just pulled into our stores department

How do I know. It is NOISY !

How noisy are these engines in a Series LR if they are that bad in a delivery 
truck. Hmm, maybe they are a larger CC than the ones considered for an LR ?

The one I just heard sounded like an old bus .... Should annoy the neighbours 
though .... !

Something to bear in mind maybe ?

Cheers 

Paul.

------------------------------

From: Elwyn York <Elwyny@mailshuttle.com>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 17:52:10 +0100
Subject: Blue Smoke

Hi

Its me again.  I went to the carwash today. 3 pressure sprays was NOT
enough!!! There is still caked mud on! Perhaps i need to visit a ford or
something...

Anyways.  Upon acceleration & starting, blue smoke comes out of the
exhaust. Can you shed some light, as in, which bit to i need to
fix/sort/replace/etc

ThanQ

Elwyn York
Landrover S3 LtWt & www.ey-eg.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 19:09:16 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: LR chat

Popped in for a natter. 19:00 MET

: Cannot connect to chat server. Possible reasons:
: You are not connected to the internet or are behind a firewall.
: Chat Server is down for maintenance - Please try again later.

Hmm, my name's not down and i'm not coming in obviously.

Dang that firewall.

Cheers,

Paul.

------------------------------

From: Elwyn York <Elwyny@mailshuttle.com>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 18:12:38 +0100

Hi folks
Me again... Cant keep away from this email.

While washing my landie today i got chatting to a freind there, also
washing his landrover.  The subject came round to heaters, radiations and
all  that lot.  He told me it was btter to have an electric can fitted as
the mech fan kept the engine too cool.

At the moment the engine temp has not gone above half way BETWEEN half and
cold!  Wont it damage it running it cold?

Cheers for now

EY
Landrover S3 LtWt & www.ey-eg.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: gruno@att.net.hk (Keith Addison)
Date: Tue, 26 May 1998 04:12:25 +0800 (HKT)
Subject: Re: Disc brakes for SIII?

>Keith Addison wrote:
>> One axle set contains:
>>         2 Calipers + supports, bolts and washers
>         [ truncated by lro-lite (was 7 lines)]
>>         2 Discs + nuts and washers
>>         2 brake hoses
>One disk set costs 1,600.00 NLG - this is 500GBP.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>--
>Ian Stuart

That much huh? I wasn't thinking of it myself, just noticed it there when I
was checking out the parabolics (am interested in them). Anyway, hell,
maybe the guy's a millionaire - he didn't say cheap did he? Seems he has a
horse - I guess even a Land Rover's cheaper than a horse!

Keith
1973 Series III Military Lightweight

------------------------------

From: gruno@att.net.hk (Keith Addison)
Date: Tue, 26 May 1998 04:27:04 +0800 (HKT)
Subject: Series 3 brake woes #3

Or should that be #33? So I've also got brake woes, amongst other woes. New
shoes and wheel cylinders about 1,000 miles ago (not fitted by me) (which,
let's face it, could be a Good Thing), and they soon went soft and needed
pumping. Bled once, twice and three times, and now the pedal's high, no
fluid leaks, but they fade - it stops well initially, but if you have to
hold the brakes, going downhill behind a bus or something, the pedal soon
goes down, and so does the stopping power. Finally it reaches a sort of low
plateau with some brake power, but not much. Any wisdom available from the
amazing LRO list oracle? Some previous smart-ass ditched the brake warning
light, so what the workshop manual says about "decentralising the shuttle
valve plunger in the brake failure switch" and how to correct it doesn't
help. Is this the problem? I think not the servo, the pedal comes up okay
when you start the motor. The master cylinder (shudder)?
>> I suspect the problem could be in the master cylinder, but can the
>> master cylinder be faulty without leaking?
- Terje Krogdahl
>It sure can!
- Joost Kramer
Or did I simply botch the bleeding and should use hose clamps and/or a
pressure bleeder? It's a real pain finding things like hose clamps in this
place. Or should I just say Sod it, brakes are for sissies, a bit of death
and destruction never hurt anybody?

Very grateful for any help.

Keith Addison
Lantau Island
Hong Kong
1973 Series III Military Lightweight

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 16:18:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Series 3 brake woes #3

On Tue, 26 May 1998, Keith Addison wrote:

<< that his brakes work but go away, if the pedal is held down. >>

Sounds like a master cylinder problem.  the  seals sort of fail, and won't
hold pressure.  The problem is made worse by cold, but that probably isn't
a problem for you.  

David

Ps.  You also mention that you have problems finding someting to clamp the
brake lines with.  The basic idea is to use something that hasn't got a
sharp edge.  Pieces of pipe slipped over needlenosed vicegrips work well,
and someone here has suggested surgical bowel clamps.  I have used  4 or 5
inch long sections of broomstick with good results:  take two pieces,
drill holes at the ends and bolt em together.   

------------------------------

From: "D. E. Renken" <renken@foto.infi.net>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 17:19:46 -0400
Subject: Selling an old land rover

What is a good location (web site, publication, etc.) to advertise an old
(1958) Series I 109 P/U that I must sell?  Target audience is east coast, I
guess (I'm in NC).  Any recommendations?

Dennis E. Renken
renken@foto.infi.net

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 18:20:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Heater options

Art Bitterman wrote:
> Hi all;
> I can hear you thinking "it's summer, why is this stupid twit asking =
> about heaters?"
> I've downloaded the archives, and was reading the May 95 messages about =
> the Mansfield heater and I got a Brainstorm (boy,did that hurt!!). The =
> "beast" is RHD and the heater is the old round Smiths. My passengers are =

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> idea was to "tee" into the heater hose and run a flat heat core on the =
> floor/seatbox area by my legs. ??? Any other ideas??
 Don't try to Tee off the line  but do run the two heaters in series
there should be lots of heat left in the water after the first to make
the second good and warm.
    John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 18:26:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Disc brakes for SIII?

Kuhl Dennis wrote:
> HI
> I own a series 3 109 build in 1980. I fitt a trailer hook an want to pull a
> horse trailer.
> I found the fittet drum brakes very hard to adjust and hard do use it
> sensitive.
> I wonder if anyone has tryed to convert the front axel to a disc braking
> system.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> system.
> I would be thankfull for any information about this.
 there is a system available from T.I. Console in the Netherlands
<http://www.ticonsole.nl> or info@ticonsole.nl.
  this looks like a good setup but I haven't seen one up close.
     John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 15:39:37 -0700
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

H
If you get stuck and you are near Manitoba, call me and I will see what
I can  do to help you out. 1-204-482-7461 home and 1-204-785-6204 work.
I sent you a personal E-Mail about dropping in to see Melcolm Engleman
at Onaway Alberta just outside of Edmonton.  He is a real fine fellow
who sells tons of Land Rover parts and loves anything British like
motorcycles.  Just have lots of time because he loves to talk Land
Rovers.  He is mostly a farmer who does the British import repairs as a
hobby and second job.  He was I think a British mechanic and has lots of
skills in that area.  I buy my parts from him exclusively now and he has
even done the occasional rebuild like carbs by mail for me. Thought I
should post to here as well as your address in case you only checked the
net before you left.  Dave VE4PN
owner-lro-digest@playground.sun.com wrote:

> Land-Rover-Owner List &  Land Rover Owner Daily Digest List
>         are proudly sponsored by the
>         Empire Rover Owners Society
>                 "Serving the Great State of New York, the Empire
> State,
>                      and former British Colonials, everywhere !"
> Tired of Too Much E-mail ?  -- Go Wired !  read this digest daily at
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 299 lines)]
> Boston, MA
> ------------------------------
[digester: Removing section of:  > [digester: Removing section of:  
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  > [digester: Removing section of:  
Content-Type: text/html; ] ]
[digester: Removing section of:  > [digester: Removing section of:  
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  > [digester: Removing section of:  
Content-Type: text/html; ] ]

------------------------------

From: gruno@att.net.hk (Keith Addison)
Date: Tue, 26 May 1998 05:39:32 +0800 (HKT)
Subject: Re: Series 3 brake woes #3

>On Tue, 26 May 1998, Keith Addison wrote:
><< that his brakes work but go away, if the pedal is held down. >>
>Sounds like a master cylinder problem.  the  seals sort of fail, and won't
>hold pressure.  The problem is made worse by cold, but that probably isn't
>a problem for you.
>David

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
>inch long sections of broomstick with good results:  take two pieces,
>drill holes at the ends and bolt em together.
Thanks David, that's great! I'm reassured - I got warned off DIY clamps by
the manual because they can cause "invisible damage" to the inside of the
pipes or some such. So I'll improvise. Much appreciated. The master
cylinder... :<( Well, we'll see. No, cold's not a problem, I'll be wishing
it was in a month or two.

All best

Keith Addison
Lantau Island
Hong Kong
1973 Series III Military Lightweight

------------------------------

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 06:18:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Blue Smoke

Your valve stem oil seals need replacing.

Elwyn York wrote:

> Hi
> Its me again.  I went to the carwash today. 3 pressure sprays was NOT
> enough!!! There is still caked mud on! Perhaps i need to visit a ford or
> something...
> Anyways.  Upon acceleration & starting, blue smoke comes out of the
> exhaust. Can you shed some light, as in, which bit to i need to
> fix/sort/replace/etc
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> Elwyn York
> Landrover S3 LtWt & www.ey-eg.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: slade@imagina.com (Michael Slade)
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 16:03:23 -0800
Subject: RR corrosion query...

Hi All,

Well, the time had come for a full-scale cleaning of the Range Rover this
afternoon.  Out came the carpets, the foam-cell rubber mats and the rubber
footwell mat too.

There is quite a bit of corrosion that has me wondering what my logical
next steps are to take.

Here's what's going on, and I haven't even gotten the front carpets up yet.  :)

Steel rivets and aluminum pieces are having electrolysis.  Not alot, but I
can see where it's heading.

Light surface rust under spare tire, rear footwells, along rear right inner
capping (where the jack is stowed).  Can I remove the plug and have a drain
there permanently?  I noticed that the mud sheild prevents much water/mud
from being sprayed up underneath the tire, but am weighing the options.

The rivits holding the backing nuts for the rear seatbelts are corroding
(electrolysis).

Has anyone found a solution for the rubber mats that have the foam rubber
backing?  Mine weren't water logged, but they certainly had their fair
share of moisture under them.  I'm leaving them out for a good day or so to
air out, then weather or not I replace them is up for debate.

Do I need to wire wheel the surface rust and prime and paint?  Is it
sufficient to just re-spray with rustoleum?

I have heard that these rust spots are common, and was wondering what the
world-wide solutions are/have been.

This is a US spec '90 County V8 (for those who are wondering).

What about Rhino-Lining the whole rear bed area?  I would imagine that
taking care of all current and potential corrosion points would be
imperitive before doing any kind of permanent spray-on bedliner.  I had
considered it in the 109, but never did it (too chicken).

The car gets muddy and dirty often enough that I might just never put the
carpets back in and just use the rubber mats and have a hose-out-able Range
Rover.

So I'm just fishing for input from others who have been down the same path.

Thanks!!!

Michael Slade
Portland, Oregon
'90 RR Foward Control

------------------------------

From: Frankelson <Frankelson@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 19:07:56 EDT
Subject: Re: 6 cyl diesels in series LRs ?

In a message dated 25/05/98  17:11:59, you write:

<< How noisy are these engines in a Series LR if they are that bad in a
delivery 
 truck. Hmm, maybe they are a larger CC than the ones considered for an LR ?
 
 The one I just heard sounded like an old bus .... Should annoy the neighbours
 though .... !
 
 Something to bear in mind maybe ?
  >>

mine isn't noisy, it is the 2.5 turbo 4 cyl used in Iveco Turbo Daily/Fiat
Ducatto/Renault Traffic

best cheers

Frank

------------------------------

From: Frankelson <Frankelson@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 19:25:36 EDT
Subject: Re: RR corrosion query...

In a message dated 26/05/98  00:03:02, you write:

<< The car gets muddy and dirty often enough that I might just never put the
 carpets back in and just use the rubber mats and have a hose-out-able Range
 Rover.
 
 So I'm just fishing for input from others who have been down the same path.
  >>
Hiya Michael,

I had to strip a 72 Rangie down to the chassis for a complete rebuild so my
advice ever since has been to wire brush and paint, with a Kurust/Hammerite
(do you have those brand-names in the States?), every couple of years if need
be.

Under the jack, you take the plug out for a couple of days in dry weather.,
same with the foam backed mats, pull 'em out, hang 'em up fora few days then
shove 'em back - or leave them out for good.

My current 110 has the minimum of mats, just carpet off-cuts that can be
thrown away when they get too dirty and/or wet.

R/R Forward Control ???  It's a gag, right?

best cheers

Frank

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 16:44:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Heater options

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 16:56:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Heater options Major

Thank you Major for getting me back on line.

Art, While living in Banff, teaching through the winter and driving with my
wife and 0-6 month old son in the back, I had to do some things to make my
LR warmer.

I insulated behind all the removable panels (doors, and roof) with 1"
polystyrene rigid foam.
I then insulated the heater hoses running back to the heater.
I built a set of radiator shutters for the front and used open grid mats on
the floor so that the soles of my boots were not in contact with the
aluminum.

That seemed to do it so that I could run around naked at 0 degrees - well,
without a jacket, gloves and a touque at least.
It was comfortable driving down to -30

In your case a remote heater added in the back might help a lot.

I think it is great that you are thinking of the heater now - less
motivation but, a LOT easier to do!

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.5 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch - our home

------------------------------

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 09:12:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Heater options Major

If you really want to go first class I suggest either an Eberspacher or Webasto
self contained diesel fuelled (small separate tank) heater.They are not cheap
but they work and can be easily relocated from vehicle to vehicle.

David and Cynthia Walker wrote:

------------------------------

From: IBEdwardp <IBEdwardp@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 21:12:06 EDT
Subject: Re: LR chat

Whatza "java applet"???  Evidently aol people don't have the right stuff?

Ed Bailey
66 S2a 88
(Finally up and running)
Somewhere in East Tennessee

------------------------------

From: Scott Wilson <swilson@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 21:30:27 -0400
Subject: RE: LR chat

> Whatza "java applet"???  Evidently aol people don't have the right stuff?

Depends on how old your aol borwser is. sounds like it's been a while 
since you upgraded your browser. I'd go for either Microsoft IE 3.02
or Netscape 4.0x. if you need more info, write me, and I'll point you 
in the right direction. Java is a language that you can write in that will 
work on any machine - as long as you have a java "decoder" you just
have to upgrade your browser to one that has a "decoder"

-Scott

------------------------------

From: robot1@juno.com
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 20:37:48 -0700
Subject: Sightings in  Ontario

Driving westbound through the small Ontario town of Shallow Lake
yesterday around 8:00 local time, I saw a blue series(II"?) pickup with a
white top. Anyone on the list? I visit this area of ONT often, (wife is
from Owen Sound) and if it's a list member, I'd make a special point of
stopping in next time I'm visiting.

Mark Hardig

Robot1@juno.com

You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.

------------------------------

From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 22:08:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Sightings in  Ontario

Well, if it was a 109, chances are pretty good it was a friend of mine, Geoff
Wright. He lives just a few minutes north of there in Wiarton. I'll likely
see him on Wed. so I can ask. He's not on the list.

Brett

Mark Hardig wrote:

Driving westbound through the small Ontario town of Shallow Lake
yesterday around 8:00 local time, I saw a blue series(II"?) pickup with a
white top. Anyone on the list? I visit this area of ONT often, (wife is
from Owen Sound) and if it's a list member, I'd make a special point of
stopping in next time I'm visiting.

Mark Hardig

Robot1@juno.com

------------------------------

From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 10:29:17 +0100
Subject: RE:NY

I will be staying at Long Island and will be about 20km from New York City.

I will also go to the Niagara Falls

Thanks
Geoffrey
Malta

William L. Leacock:
>>Date: Sat, 23 May 1998 16:17:52 -0400
>>To: Geoffrey.Said@magnet.m
>>From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
>>Subject: NY
>>New York is a huge place, 7 or 800 km long and a few hundred deep. There
>are lots of rover ownerss here. But I guess you are making the usual error
>of thinking only of new York City, rather than New York State. I live in NY,
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
>Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
> 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Tue, 26 May 1998 09:30:02 +0000
Subject: Re: Tight fit in the swivvel balls

Does anyone happen to have a good method for inserting the bearing and
railco bush into the swivel ball? I nearly ruined mine with banging and
>eventually used a vice, having heated the ball with boiling water - but
>there must be an easier way?
Put bearing and bush in the fridge?

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Tue, 26 May 1998 18:32:29 +1000
Subject: Whining sound

Dave Bobeck wrote:

>I have noticed there is a loud whining sound that comes from the
>passenger side  of my vehicle. However at speeds in excess of
>50 mph the sound gets drowned out by the gearbox and engine,
>and hence is no longer audible. Also I have noticed it goes away
>completely when there is no female passenger.

Dave, at first I thought that you must have joined us plushie owners if you
could hear the whining.  However, I then see that you qualified it with the
50mph bit.

However, I understand that replacing the female passenger is far more
expensive than buying a brand new Rangie HSE, even down here where a RR
Autobiography cost A$150,000.  My wife has told me that if I ever replace
her, it's gonna cost me at least the house and my superannuation.  All
told - at least half a million bucks, probably more.

Therefore, my suggestion is to fit a Fairey Overdrive.  This will mask the
whining at much lower speeds and will cost considerably less.  I must admit
it doesn't have the same appeal as replacing a model the same age as the
first Series 1 with one built the same time as the first Rangie 8-)

Regards,

Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia (02) 4735-6883
Editor, Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter
check my home page at http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
for Hillman and Rover

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Tue, 26 May 1998 18:32:10 +1000
Subject: Boring, Maryland, USA

Nate wrote:

>Here in Boring, Maryland, USA, ....

Is Boring a town or is it a description of Maryland?

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Steve Mace" <steve@solwise.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 26 May 1998 09:08:16 +0000
Subject: Re: Tight fit in the swivvel balls

> Does anyone happen to have a good method for inserting the bearing and
> railco bush into the swivel ball? I nearly ruined mine with banging and
> eventually used a vice, having heated the ball with boiling water - but
> there must be an easier way?
> Adrian Redmond

When I did both my swivels last summer I used a block of wood 
and a large hammer. I did very carefully make sure that the bearing 
was pefectly square with the hole before hitting it!

In fact I had to do this twice because the first set of bearings and 
bushses from Paddocks were very, very tight (the bushes and bearing 
were different makes so probably slightly different tolerances). With 
a new matched set all was okay.

I suppose the proper way is with a press....
-------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.demon.co.uk
www: http://www.demon.co.uk/solwise/
Tel: +44 1482 473899
Fax: +44 1482 472245
-------------------------------------

------------------------------

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 38 lines 2441 [forwarded 512 whitespace 0]
 Output: lines 1122 [content 1200  forwarded 159 (cut  353) whitespace 0]

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-1999 by the original poster or/and Empire Rover Owners Society, All rights reserved. Photos & text Copyright 1990-1999 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Empire/LRO List of charges for Empire/LRO Policies against the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Empire/LRO fees for the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Frequently Asked Questions
<--Back	HOME	TOP	Forward -->	height=31 width=88 alt="Made with Macintosh" border=0>