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From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 21:34:42 +1000 (EST)
Subject: chewy bits in a gearbox

what are good methods of removing fine
metal particles from gearboxes and other
components witout disassembly?

I would image water and/or air could be used
if dried afterwards, after all water often
gets into gearboxes.

Lloyd

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 07:54:47 -0400
Subject: Re: chewy bits in a gearbox

Re: FLushing a gearbox:

Dunno as I'd use water myself - clearing it all afterward would be a bit of
a trial and then some.

My first thought here would be a very light petrochemical - Diesel or the
like. Fill the gearbox up with the plugs in, agitate by rotating the
geartrain BY HAND!!! and/or bouncing the truck side-to-side, then dump and
strain to catch the chunkies coming out.

Why are you doing this?

                    Alan

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 18 May 1998 22:45:59 +1000
Subject: Unleaded Fuel catalyst

Lawrence Lee asks:
>Has anyone tried this product called Broquet fuel catalyst?

No but I saw a report on it in Practical Classics magazine, May 1990 where
they
said Rover tried a similar thing called Carbonflo which is supposed to allow
any car to run on ULP.. The  test car had severe valve seat recession in an
extremely short period of time.  The device was also associated with valve
seat burning and consequent destruction of the head.  Rover subsequently
advised their dealers to have nothing to do with Carbonflo.

Me?  I'm sceptical of anything that says it works unless it is backed up
serious independant  testing.  These things cost a mint!

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 14:20:37 +0100
Subject: flushing with diesel

FLushing a gearbox, works, I tried this with a few motrcycle engines 
We set up a system which pumped the diesel through the system 
for a period of time and used a cotton sheet as "filter". We did get 
worried by the amount of metal flakes which came out.....

I would not use water, corrosion might do more harm then good.
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 08:52:00 -0400
Subject: RE - Does anyone know what a carburettor is?

Wife- The car won't start. It has water in the carburettor.
Husband- With respect dear you don't know a carburettor from a catalytic
converter. How do you know thats the problem.
Wife-Because it stopped when I drove it into the swimming pool.

------------------------------

From: caloccia@senie.com
Date: 19 May 1998 13:02:13 -0000
Subject: how to build an ambulance / camper ?

Gutentag Jörg !

	As for how to re-assemble an Ambulance body on your 109", I would
recommend that you find one already assembled, and take lots  of photographs.
and a good look around.  Personally, I'm not that knowledgeable about
ambulances them selves, but there are a number of owners on the mailings
lists, thus I've copied this response to your note,  to the lists.

	Perhaps readers there can provide additional information, or some
URLs to photographs of Ambulances and their assembly.

 - f o r w a r d e d message -
 I found your web site in the net and now I have a question.
 I've bought a 109 SIII Pick Up with a seperate ambulanccabin in pieces.

 At the end I wont to have a camper !!! What stands between ...... , I have
 no drawing or a plan to build the cabin.
 Maybe it goes without but its not such easy as it coud be.
 I hope you can help me....
 
 Thank you very much,
 Greetings                            Jörg

------------------------------

From: gruno@att.net.hk (Keith Addison)
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 21:50:43 +0800 (HKT)
Subject: Re: Rag tops

>nip
>>I didn't realise your Land Rover is an 88. Yes, the lightweight's an 88,
>>but I don't know if the canopy is the same as a standard 88,
>snip
>>No, the LightWeight and civilian 88 ragtops are different size. The
>civilian rear tub is wider.
> Err I beg to differ, from personal experience I can assure you that the rag
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>points. Rover themselves fit the tops without modicification.
>Bill Leacock

Only half an inch? That certainly wouldn't make a difference, the ragtops
are not that precise anyway - I saw one lightweight here where the top fell
at least 3" short at the rear and couldn't be tied down without leaving a
big gap. Thanks for the information.

Keith Addison
Lantau Island
Hong Kong
1973 Series III Military Lightweight

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 19 May 98 08:32:28 EST
Subject: Re: FW: Spring ahead - lube

>>What is the natural (or normal) use of this spray graphite originally? 

should be fairly easy to get. It is made for lubricating locks. the spray 
carrier gets it through teh lock mechanism and then leaves behind the powder 
when it dries.

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 10:43:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Painting - Primer Needed?

AAK! I hope you enjoy the years of frustration to come now that you have 
embedded bazillions of microparticles of steel in your aluminum roof. I 
strongly urge you to scrub it all again with wet-sand paper or a 
scotch-brite pad to get that suff out. You can then use a self-etching 
primer (available at most marine supply) and topcoat with your favourite 
enamel or polyurethane....miles of smiles.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 10:44:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Liquid gaskets

Yup, buy some masking tape.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 19 May 98 10:46:29 EST
Subject: Re: how to build an ambulance / camper ?

Gutentag Jörg !

>>As for how to re-assemble an Ambulance body on your 109",

don't forget the ambulances have sway bars since they are so darn tall.
and heavier suspension, and of course they are military frames set up for the 
longer shackles.

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Tue, 19 May 1998 16:53:59 +0200
Subject: Whining sound again...

Dear list,

My 109" Series 3, Diesel is running again and by doing so I got reminded
about an old problem. Some time ago I asked for the lists collective
knowledge to track a whining sound, or rather a whining roar, that appears
when I use the fourth gear. It might be there before but when driving on
the third gear the engine noice might cover it and when shifting to fourth
gear the whining is "suddenly" there since the engine noice is lower. The
whining increases with speed but vanish when pressing the clutch. This
whining is really a pain and it gets right into my head and I wouldn´t be
surprised if it could give you tinnitus. Any ideas on where to look? The
gearbox is recently reconditioned and the transferbox is also new (high
ratio). I have yesterday changed the oil in the transfer box and also added
some STP gearbox treatment. This did not help. 

Peter, with regular headache
--------------------------------------
Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Member #1379 Swedish Land Rover Club
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
Sweden
phone/fax +46 18 39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se
--------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 10:56:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Painting - Primer Needed?

AAK! is right - I obviously wasn't thinking!!!! &^(&$)&^@$$ I guess I'll be
going back to the hardware store to buy some plastic scrubbie things!!!
Peter :  (

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382
pmk11@cornell.edu
-----------------------

------------------------------

From: Loz <Loz@loz.softnet.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 14:58:34 +0100
Subject: Annoying Rattles

Anybody out there who can help?

I've got a 1961 SII swb 4 pot petrol, bog standard except for one or two
minor details. She runs fine and comfortably drags me out of all the
mess I get us into....except she rattles like buggery. It's a tinny
rattle that occurs only on overrun or when I depress the clutch. It is
particularly loud when going down hill. I don't think it's a gearbox
problem as everything seems to work fine in this department. It's been
happening for the last 10000 miles but it has started getting louder
lately. I recently put on a new starter motor and for a while the noise
stopped.

If it's nothing to worry about I'll leave it as I'm one of those people
who believes in "If it
ain't broke, don't fix it."

But I need to know what it might be.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Loz

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 17:19:18 +0100
Subject: Re: Whining sound again...

Hello Peter

Is the  whining sound, or roar, teperature related? I had 
something similar with a gearbox bearing on its way out, it started 
to whine when the oil was warmed up and got thinner.
There were little flakes of alu in the oil as well...

Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

From: ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za
Date: Sun, 17 May 1998 21:04:43 +0000
Subject: 88" and sideshafts after 1980

Hi all,

it's been a while since I've been able to talk to you - the lot on the
za-list generate so much traffic, I usually only have time to finish
that...

I am told by someone here that the SWBses after June (I think) 1980 came
with different sideshafts even though they had Rover diffs.  We in South
Africa don't know anything about this, since LR did not import any
SWBses that recent.

I would like to know what the experiences of you people are with these
sideshafts.  If they really are stronger, they seem to be the easiest
way to cure any SII or SIII88" sideshaft problems...

or am I caught in a pipe dream?

- Iwan Vosloo
( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel )

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 98 08:50:11 -0700
Subject: Re: What are symptoms of blown head gasket? LONG DISERTATION

WARNING - Another of TeriAnn's signature essays where a two line reply 
would suffice follows.

>Besides the usual oil in coolant and coolant in oil, which mine has neither,
>what are some other symptoms of a head gasket that's about to go completely?

C-O-M-P-R-E-S-I-O-N

Engines love it.  Engines need it.  The more an engine and it's fuel can 
handle the more horsepower you have.  The less compression you have the 
less horsepower you have.

Compression is very easy to check for.  Remove all the sparkplugs and use 
a compression tester to test the compression of each cylinder.

Compression naturally decreases over time as an engine wears.  So unless 
the compression number for all your cylinders are really low, what you 
are looking for is one or two cylinders with very different compression 
from the others.  Ideally you would like them to all read exactly the 
same.  I have never had that happen.  It is quite common for there to be 
a few pounds difference between cylinders.  I generally am not concerned 
of a range of numbers that can be up to 10 pounds  between the highest 
and lowest cylinders.  When it gets that high I start thinking about 
putting money aside for a valve job or engine rebuild if I think the 
rings are worn.  But I would consider the engine to be healthy enough to 
drive hard for some time yet.

What causes compression loss:

1. Blown head gasket -
  Head gaskets tend to stay intact unless the engine has overheated.  
Early failure from incorrect torquing, dirt on a mating surface, dirt in 
the holes the head bolts are torqued into, or uneven head or block 
surfaces are common.  Sometimes a head gasket will fail immediately 
because on interference from another part.  For instance the water pump 
sits under the lower thermostat housing integral to the head.  If the 
head is milled, the front of the head could be resting on the water pump 
and everything would look and torque down properly but the gasket will 
not seal properly.  Once, I had a wire from the generator get caught in 
that squeeze and keep the head form torquing correctly.

Overheating an engine causes the head to expand then contract.  This can 
cause a head gasket to fail.  This failure is most commonly seen in the 
thin section that goes between two adjacent cylinders.  This shows up on 
the compression test as adjacent cylinders having low compression.  A 
major gasket failure between two cylinders can cause the explosion in one 
cylinder to leak over and ignite an air fuel mixture in its adjacent 
cylinder.  You will not see the oil in water symptom if the gasket is 
just broken between two adjacent cylinders.

2.  Burnt valve -
  A valve exists in a very hostile environment with high pressures and 
explosions happening thousands of times a minute.  It survives because it 
is made out of a hard material and it can  transfer the excess heat to 
surrounding surfaces.  Some heat is dissipated up the stem but most is 
dissipated through contact with the valve seat in the head.  The head is 
cooled by the coolant and the heat flows from the edge of the valve to 
the head when it is closed.

The job of the intake valve is to let air fuel mixture into the cylinder 
at a given time then keep it from escaping.  The intake valve seldom 
burns because the cool air and the fuel droplets cool down the valve.

The job of the exhaust valve is to keep the air fuel mixture from 
escaping until after the explosion then to vent it out through the 
exhaust system.  This valve deals with the explosion like the intake 
valve then it has the hot exhaust gasses flow along past it while it is 
open.  The exhaust valve relies upon a head cooler than the valve to keep 
from burning.

The valves are constantly withstanding the forces of thousands of 
explosions a minute and they are pounding against the head surface 
thousands of times a minute.  They wear over time and the seal they make 
decreases.  

Worn valves will cause a general compression decrease.  Since they do not 
wear at exactly the same rate you will see greater variation in 
compression among the cylinders.  During a compression test you will see 
low compressions with more variance between cylinders.  

The symptoms of worn valves are a general very slow decrease of power 
over time from an engine that runs fine and otherwise seems normal. 

If a valve is unable to cool itself it will burn and parts of it will 
dissolve so that it no longer seals.  If the valve does not seat properly 
against the head, it will burn faster.

If a valve is adjusted too tight, it will have less time to stay seated 
against the head and will eventually burn.  If the cylinder is running 
too hot from preignition or the wrong kind of fuel it can get hot enough 
to try and spot weld itself to the head.  This creates a ragged edge that 
keeps the valve from seating and the valve rapidly burns because it can 
not cool. Since the exhaust valve has the hottest job it usually is the 
one that burns.

When you do a compression test you will find one cylinder with very 
little or no compression.

Common operating symptoms include hard starting, loss of power and uneven 
running with poor idle.  basically your engine is running without that 
cylinder.

3. Cracked head -
 Heads tend to crack when there are large temperature gradients within 
the head causing different degrees of expansion within the head.  This 
might be caused by a blocked coolant passage or incorrect fuel or timing 
causing the inside of a cylinder to get very hot very quickly.   

It is most commonly caused by overheating followed by cold water being 
added into the cooling system. The safest way to handle overheating is to 
park the car and let all the parts cool down gradually together.

The inside of a head where you can not see is hollowed out to allow 
coolant to flow.  Almost every head crack will open a passage between one 
or more cylinders and the coolant.  This will result in overheating 
problems where you loose coolant rapidly.  The gas flow into the cooling 
system is easy to see if you have a radiator with the cap on top.  Start 
en engine with the cap off and observe while the engines gets up to 
operating temperature.  You will be looking for a steady stream of 
bubbles after the thermostat opens.  The coolant may pick up a slight 
oily look.  It is normal for a system to have a few bubbles come out when 
the thermostat opens but it is not normal to have a constant stream of 
bubbles.  (A constant stream of bubbles can be caused by a small hole 
between the cooling system and the outside world but a coolant leak to 
the outside world is more common in that case).

There are very few oil passages within a head.  It is uncommon for a head 
crack to go into an oil passage.

A compression check would show very low compression usually between two 
adjacent cylinders.  The compression is often the rating of the radiator 
cap.  You would look for bubbles in the coolant to differentiate between 
a blown gasket and a cracked head.

The driving symptoms would be essentially the same as for a burnt valve 
except that you will almost certainly have coolant loss and overheating 
problems.

4. Cracked block -
I have only had this happen once and it was long ago.  A crack in the 
block generally occurs between adjacent cylinders.  When it happens the 
oil and coolant systems become one with the insides of one or more 
cylinders.  The oil becomes a chocolate brown substance.  Your exhaust 
becomes discolored.  I just remember it as one heck of a mess.  You will 
not need a compression test to diagnose this. it is like an engine 
Armageddon.

5. Burnt piston - 
Incorrect fuel and timing causes temperatures in a cylinder to become 
much hotter than normal. A carburetor providing a little too little fuel 
or air leak  adding too much air to the air fuel mixture leans it out to 
burn hotter.  Usually it is the exhaust valves the burns first but 
sometimes a hole is burned into a piston.

A compression test shows no compression in a single cylinder.

Driving symptoms would be the same as a burnt valve but you will be going 
though a lot of oil and you will probably have a noticeably blue exhaust 
colour.

6. Worn rings - 
Rings go around the upper side walls of a piston.  They provide a seal 
between the combustion chamber and the lower inside of the engine.

When the engine is rotating oil is constantly getting splashed up into 
the cylinders to lubricate the piston's path.  The rings keep this 
splashed oil from reaching the combustion cylinder and burning.  The 
rings also keep the compressed gasses from the combustion chamber out of 
the central oil area.  When the rings wear, or if scratches are made in 
the cylinder walls they become less efficient and more leakage occurs 
between the combustion chamber and the central oil area.

Scratches are caused by dirt particles entering the carburetor with the 
air.  The more you get, the faster an engine wears.  Running an engine in 
a dusty off road condition without an air filter can cause scratches to 
run it within an hour.  A hole in the hose going between the carburetor 
and oil bath air cleaner will rapidly accelerate the rate of engine wear.

Hi flow air filters work by having larger air passages in the filter 
element.  This lets more air in, but it also passes more dirt particles 
through that will score your engine cylinder's walls.  Be wary of high 
flow air filters in a dusty off road environment.  Always keep your air 
filter system intact and clean.

A compression test will show overall lower compression.  If you squirt 
some oil into the spark plug hole and rerun the test, the compression 
will be higher because the oil around the rings will temporarily provide 
a better seal. 

The driving symptoms would be the same as worn valves except that you 
will be burning a lot of oil.  Your exhaust will have a bluish cast to it 
and you will burn more and more oil.

I think answer to your question is buried somewhere in this dissertation. 

;>My truck has gradually been loosing power, especially on any incline.  
The
;>motor was recently rebuilt.  It idles and revs nice and smooth.  I've 
;>given it
;>a tune-up, oil, valves, air filter, etc.  and even switched the carb 
with a
;>spare.  The fuel pump is recent and so is the distributor, and yes the 
;>advance

If you have a fuel filter in line, it may be partially clogged.

Your coil may be weak.  The wire between your coil and spark plugs may be 
bad causing a weak spark.  Your points may have slipped and the gap may 
be off.  

Just for the fun of it you might take it down and have it put on a scope. 
 your ignition system can be accurately diagnosed very quickly with a 
simple automotive scope.

Given your symptoms and what you have done, I'm betting it is an ignition 
system problem providing an inadequate spark to the plugs.

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 16:59:40 +0000
Subject: Re: 88" and sideshafts after 1980

>I would like to know what the experiences of you people are with these
>sideshafts.  If they really are stronger, they seem to be the easiest
>way to cure any SII or SIII88" sideshaft problems...
I rather suspect that that was when they altered the number of splines
on the halfshafts.(24 instead of 10) so it isnt a ready cure for anything
earlier.

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: William Dan Terry <wterry@netpubsintl.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 10:21:30 -0600
Subject: For Sale: Series parts

Must clean out fast, make offer.

Fort Collins, CO, USA

- Civ fuel tank, filler neck and body fitting, cap, locking hasp, filler
hose, $120/obo, will sell in parts

- used seat backs from IIA, one with a small tear in side, other with
breaks in seams between center parts and sides, foam good, make offer.

- IIA splash guards, 1 used $7, 1 new $20

- non-Landy Isuzu cassette/stereo and 4 speakers, electronic, from
Special Equipment Trooper, $35.

- Series front vent knob, uses little screw to stay on, (not sure which
versions used what style, mine was press on L shaped hole), new, $1

- IIA press in wheel studs w/ 15/16 flat-side nuts, new, 2, $12

- IIA petrol distributor caps, new, $6/each
- IIA rotor arm, new, $1
- IIA points, new, $2.50
- IIA condensor, new, $2.50

- IIA high gear wheel (I believe - part removed when OD installed) and
gearbox endplate w/ bearings, useful if OD fails and need to keep going,
new, $65
- Same as previous, guessing used, excellent condition, all edges are
crisp, $35

- IIA upper right front door hinge, used w/ new bolt, spring, bronze
bush,
locker and nut, $10

wterry@netpubstinl.com

_______W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y_______
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiny things?
  (David Brin)

------------------------------

From: William Dan Terry <wterry@netpubsintl.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 10:26:23 -0600
Subject: For Sale: IIA 109 mil ht

1966 IIA 109 military hardtop

Offers to wterry@netpubsintl.com. Need to sell fast.

Fort Collins, CO, USA

~6k miles on RN trans w/ OD, HC head, front axle rebuild (new swivel
balls, bearings...), new Zenith carb w/ selection of jets, new
suspension springs,
alternator, brakes (master cyl, wheel cyl, lines, shoes, drums), clutch
(new master and slave), tires, seats, front prop shaft, front splash
panels, one new fuel tank (other is original?), Def rear fog and backup
lamps, front exhaust pipe, anti-burst door latches, passenger side-step,
seatbelt pickups for full shoulder retractables.

Peace, William

_______W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y_______
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiny things?
  (David Brin)

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 09:12:13 -0700
Subject: RE: Annoying Rattles

'Sounds' very familiar  (bad pun, sorry)

One suggestion, when you hear the rattle, try grasping the HI/LO
transfer lever and pushing it to one side.  A bracket on this lever is
supposed to have a little anti-rattle spring clip thingy that *often* is
missing.  By pushing on the lever, you're doing what the spring is
supposed to do.  We replaced one in a friends '69 SWB, on a list members
recommendation,  and it made a world of difference!  

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 14:42:36 -0700
Subject: Re: For Sale: Series parts

Get back to me on the tune up parts, off list

wahooadv@earthlink.net

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.5 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch - our home             

------------------------------

From: Lodelane <Lodelane@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 12:51:29 EDT
Subject: Series For Sale - IL

Had a friend who lives in Chicago pass this on.

Know nothing about the truck other than this:

For Sale:
1970 Landrover Series IIA
All Original 
Runs Great
$7950
312-482-8286

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 19 May 98 13:08:38 EST
Subject: Re: Annoying Rattles

>I've got a 1961 SII swb ...She runs fine and comfortably...except she rattles 
>like buggery. 
>If it's nothing to worry about I'll leave it...
>But I need to know what it might be.
>Any ideas?

Take a look around the front of the vehicle. Look at the area of the grill 
between the headlamps. Is there a  badge that says "Land Rover"?
If so then there is the root of the problem.

No amount of tightening the badge screws will stop the rattling either.
The only remedy is to remove the badge altogether and replace it with one that 
reads. "Plushie Sedan Thing". This may temporarily fool the Land Rover into 
thinking it is supposed to be civilized. Won't work for long though, especially 
if you park in front of a mirror. You wouldn't be too pleasant either if you 
had to look at a face like that first thing in the morning...

Seriously, try tuning the engine a little smoother. It's not a deisel is it?

later
DaveB
SIII SWB- GreenHELL (who also rattles a bit)

------------------------------

From: Alessandro Castellana <kastel@tor.it>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 17:41:08 +0200
Subject: canvas top waterproof

Hi all
The canvas top of my LR is wear out, of course I could get it from a land
rover dealer as spare part, but my budget has a low profile. So I try use
the old soft top again but I must make a treatment with something because
the rain passes through.
Any suggestion?
'78  SIII 88"

------------------------------

From: Elwyn York <Elwyny@mailshuttle.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 18:40:30 +0100
Subject: Vacuum Gauge

Hi folks

I have a question. My dad used to use a "Vacuum Guage" that had a pipe from
the inlet manifold to a dial. It could diagnose engine faults and help you
drive more economically.

Can you still get them? A proper name?

ThanQ In Advance

Elwyn York
Landrover S3 LtWt & www.ey-eg.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 10:51:16 -0700
Subject: RE: Vacuum Gauge

I used to have an 'under dash' type vacuum gauge in an old Celica.  If
you know what to look for they do tell you a lot about the condition of
your motor.

They are still available in both "under dash" form and as a hand held
gauge (looks a lot like a compression tester).  Any good parts store
should have both types.  

Paul in Victoria.

------------------------------

From: "Clark, Patrick D." <Clark_PD@pillsburylaw.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 14:57:16 -0400
Subject: RE: canvas top waterproof

Several products should be readily available at local hardware/paint
suppliers.  I live aboard in the SF Bay area and have used a "Behr" and
"Thompsons" product on my boat canvass (my '65 SIIA has a hard lid) .
The Behr product is specifically aimed at canvass-- but is unavailable
to the 9 bay area counties due to EPA regulations-- hopefully you don't
have the same restrictions. 

Any of the wood waterproofing agents will do a good job, but the canvass
versions are coveted for their higher Silicone content. (Painter's often
use these products on their canvass drop cloths)  As with any new
application-- test an inconspicuous area first....

------------------------------

From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 12:16:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Vacuum Gauge

 
 I have a question. My dad used to use a "Vacuum Guage" that had a pipe from
 the inlet manifold to a dial. It could diagnose engine faults and help you
 drive more economically.
 
 Can you still get them? A proper name?
 
 ThanQ In Advance
 
 Elwyn York

Elwyn,

    Actually, Smiths made a nice little 2" vaccuum gauge that matches all the 
rest
of the LR gauges. My 101FC has one to monitor the amount of vaccuum in the brake
system for the powered trailer. Don't know if it's still available, but it may 
have
been used on other Brit cars like Jag or Triumph.

Rgds
Mike

------------------------------

From: RINGO JACK <RINGOJACK@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 16:23:16 EDT
Subject: NEED HELP

Hi, I used to own a land rover but I sold it.  No I can't get off this mailing
list and I have tried numerous times too.  Can anyone please tell me what to
type and who to send it to exactly so I can cancel this.  Thanks.

Mark Roby

Former 1995 and 1996 Discovery owner

------------------------------

From: Sski3 <Sski3@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 16:36:55 EDT
Subject: British car show/LR show

Dear New England Land Rover enthusiasts
Please join the members of British Cars of New Hampshire on Sunday, June 21st,
for the "Second Annual Show of Dreams" to benefit the High Hopes Foundation.
The car show will be held in Milford, New Hampshire and is part of the High
Hopes Foundation's Annual Balloon Festival, which runs from Friday evening
through Sunday.  Balloons can be seen at dusk and dawn.  For information on
accommodations, please call the Milford/Amherst Chamber of Commerce at (603)
673-4360.  For information on balloon rides, please call Gone Ballooning at
(603) 673-9389.  Balloon rides are $150 per person. Registration forms for the
car show are at the gate or by mail.
 
Proceeds are to benefit seriously ill children of New Hampshire.  The kids
most often ask for trips to Disney World, medical equipment and computers.  A
major fundraiser is the annual High Hopes Balloon Festival.  Last year we had
an incredible turnout of 125 cars and raised $2500.  Our dreams were surpassed
when we realized that with the funds donated by the show participants a
child's wish would be granted! We could not have done this without the support
of the regional British car clubs.   

Again, please join us on June 21st for a terrific show.  We'll have vendor
tables and lots of raffle prizes.  We doubled the number of award classes to
twelve this year.  We promise you a wonderful time!  After all, what better
way to celebrate Father's Day than to help grant a wish to a seriously ill
child?                                                                        
                                                                              
By the way there is a Land Rover class with first place, second place and
third. Bring them clean or my preference muddy but please bring them. Ten-
dollar cars show admittance.

It does have LR content, please pass along.
Steve Falkowski                                              Registrations
Floyd Rambin
69 SII 88
P.O. Box 182     
65 SII 88							                
                           Amherst, NH
	
03031

------------------------------

From: Frankelson <Frankelson@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 16:48:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Rag tops

In a message dated 19/05/98  13:56:16, you write:

<< the ragtops
 are not that precise anyway  >>

neither are Land Rovers!!!

best cheers

Frank

------------------------------

From: Frankelson <Frankelson@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 17:08:24 EDT
Subject: Re: canvas top waterproof

In a message dated 19/05/98  17:36:32, you write:

<<  I must make a treatment with something because
 the rain passes through.
 Any suggestion? >>

Any canvas/cotton tent re-proofer will do the job. Go to your local
camping/tent shop.

best cheers

Frank

------------------------------

From: Rob Horstman <robh@molienergy.bc.ca>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 14:11:49 -0700
Subject: 1968 Series IIA  - For Sale ???

Hello all,

Hopefully you can help me out on this one...

I have the following vehicle that I think I have to put up for sale,
unfortunately, due to circumstances, I must part with my toy before it
is complete...but have NO idea what it's worth in it's present
condition... Any ideas would be appreciated.

1968 Series IIA Model 88
GM 6cyl (230cid) - on propane (Can be converted back to Gas in about 1/2
hr)
Fairey Overdrive
31x10.50x15 All Terrain Tires - NEW
New Brakes - Front and Rear (Wheel Cylinders, pads, lines, springs,
etc... Bills to prove !)
Hard Top
Body in great shape (except on small dent in passenger side wing)
Interior in good shape, couple of rips in the original seats.
Frame is Rotten, can be fixed, but would take some fancy welding
Foot wells are rusted out too, need replacing.
Needs brakes bled and shocks
Runs and Drives excellent,

Would be a perfect candidate for a NEW galvanized frame or you could
replace the outriggers and back crossmember ???

Like I said, I have no idea what it's worth, but if you have any
suggestions, please email me !

Thanks 

Rob.

Rob Horstman, Systems Administrator
Email : robh@molienergy.bc.ca
Moli Energy (1990) Ltd.
20000 Stewart Crescent,                  Direct Line - (604) 466-6681 
Maple Ridge, BC, Canada                Main #       - (604) 466-6654
V2X  9E7
              Visit us on the WEB  @  www.molienergy.bc.ca

------------------------------

From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 23:23:28 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: SIII brake woes

Hi!

I'm having a bit of trouble with the brakes on my trusty old 88". 
The pedal is soft, and the brakes are rather poor.

So far I've
 - made sure there are no leaks
 - made sure all wheel cylinders run smoothly
 - adjusted all brakes so the shoes just touch the drums
 - bled the system real good, using a pressure bleed kit
 - clamped one hose at a time to make sure all the hoses are
   good

I suspect the problem could be in the master cylinder, but can the
master cylinder be faulty without leaking? It's a dual brake system
with a brake servo, which works rather nicely. I've noticed a very slight
flex in the plate around the mountings of the master cylinder, but I
don't really believe this could be the problem, as it feels as though
the pedal strikes the bottom of the master cylinder at the end of its
stroke. 

Any ideas? I have the "periodic vehicle control" that the EU says
all vehicles have to go through every other year coming up before
the end of May. 

-- 
Terje Krogdahl
http://www.land.rover.no
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

------------------------------

From: Frankelson <Frankelson@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 17:26:56 EDT
Subject: Re: NEED HELP

 You address to:       	Majordomo@playground.sun.com

on aol you leave 'subject' blank.

you type in email space:

    unsubscribe lro RINGOJACK 

best cheers

Frank

------------------------------

From: Loz <Loz@loz.softnet.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 21:40:13 +0100
Subject: Re: Annoying Rattles

Tried that, didn't work!

Paul Quin wrote:

------------------------------

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 07:15:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Annoying Rattles

Go to the supermarket......................Buy a "bunch" of
Broccoli............Eat Broccoli............Save large elastic band holding
Broccoli together...................Place around  Mr.Yellow knob and Mr.Red
knob. ....No more rattles.....If you install an
anti-rattle spring use small plastic tie wraps to hold it in place. You
might also check if your exhaust pipe is touching the frame.
Paul Quin wrote:

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 16:10:56 -0700
Subject: RE: Annoying Rattles

	Loz [SMTP:Loz@loz.softnet.co.uk] Writes:

	Tried that, didn't work!

	Well, then it's time to brink a friend for a drive.  Have
him/her move around the inside of the car (with care of course) and try
to pin down the exact source(s) of the worst rattles and work from
there.

	I know that Land Rovers are rather noisy at the best of times
but rattles caused by loose / missaligned / or improperly installed bits
should be taken care of before something breaks or falls off.

	Have fun!

	Paul.

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 01:09:00 +0200
Subject: Re: NEED HELP

It's easier to buy another Land Rover than to unsubscribe from this
list!

:-)

RINGO JACK wrote:
> Hi, I used to own a land rover but I sold it.  No I can't get off this mailing
> list and I have tried numerous times too.  Can anyone please tell me what to
> type and who to send it to exactly so I can cancel this.  Thanks.
> Mark Roby
> Former 1995 and 1996 Discovery owner

-- 
Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 16:45:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re:the saga continues

Dave Lowe,

     Looks like "Mary" is at it again, more veiled insults. Dirty
scoundrel, need to take his Ser I out for a FC whuppin.

Mike

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 02:20:04 +0200
Subject: Re: Annoying Rattles

I spent days chasing an annoying rattle once - it was present when
travelling between 70 and 85 kph, otherwise quiet as a bell.

Eventually i took it to my mechanic, to see if he could find it - we
went for a test run, after a couple of miles he drew in to the side, and
asked me to remove the starting handle from behind the seats. I did so
and we driove on - me holding the handle.
40-45-50-55-60-65-66-67-68-69-70-------90 NO rattle! It was the
handbrake, and my mechanic was kind enough not to bill me for his time!
Although his expertise was just as useful here as on the change of a
head gasket.

I doubt if that is your problem... but it's worth checking anyway.

Good luck

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 09:41:43 -0400
Subject: Re: the saga continues

I know, I know but what can you do.Wait until Ottawa I will use him for
wheel grip. In the meantime I am training my little puppy to cock his leg on
his wheels. Talk about galvanic corrosion..Larry phoned ,he is moving north
east from San Diego after spending a few days in the Baha .He spoke to Brett
and told him about losing oil from his front swivel housing..........seems
he had lost a bolt from the bottom bearing pin !!!!!! the other three were
also loose..... no lock tabs I guess. Last week he had to remove his rear
diff to tighten the ring gear bolts. BUT he came out with the classic
comment that he is having a good time ....."but I am disappointed in the
truck"........Its never the owner, always the vehicle........Boy oh boy is
he in for a royal slagging when he gets back.

Michael Fredette wrote:

> Dave Lowe,
>      Looks like "Mary" is at it again, more veiled insults. Dirty
> scoundrel, need to take his Ser I out for a FC whuppin.
> Mike

------------------------------

From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 22:34:32 EDT
Subject: Graphite

Hi all,
I stopped at NAPA after work and spent the $6 for a can of Dry Graphite Film
lubricant.  Spent about 5 minutes spraying it in between the leaves (as much
as I could w/ the still-fairly-new springs still together).

Took Mrs. Merdle for a spin.  Bought groceries.  Had to decide between OJ and
Boddington's.  Boddington's won.  Got back in the Rover.  Rocked side to side
while in driver's seat.  For the first time ever, she rocked too!  The ride's
still rough, but much smoother than before.  

So, stop being cheap and spend the $6.

Bill Rice
Watertown NY
64 109 SW

------------------------------

From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 22:34:38 EDT
Subject: Impending journey

Howdy folks,
I'm going to be making quite a trip (Rover willing) this summer in my 109.
I'd like to stop and chat with any of you that are on the way and maybe even
get together and do some off-roading (or repairs, depending on how Mrs.
Merdle's holding up).  Please e-mail me if you want to get together.  Here's
my itinerary:

15 or 16 June:  Leave Watertown, go to Ottawa
19-21 June:  OVLR Bday Party

21 June:   Bday Party to Watertown

22 June:  Watertown to Delaware, OH

23 June:   Delaware, OH to St. Louis, MO

28 June:  St. Louis to somewhere (anywhere) in KS

29 June:  KS to Evergreen CO (somewhere between Boulder and Denver according
to my friend who lives there--he says he sees Rovers drive by his house every
day, so I know there are some of you out there and this is where I'd really
like to do some off-roading w/ a local)

3 July:  Colarado to KS

4 July:  KS to St. Louis

5 July:  St. Louis to Delaware, Ohio

7 July:  OH to Hackettstown NJ

9 July:  NJ to Wash. D.C.

11 July:  D.C. to Richmond VA (for my softtop) to Charlotte NC

13 July:  Charlotte to Chattanooga TN

15 July:  Chattanooga to Columbus GA

That's it.  I'm tired just typing it.

Thanks everyone for just reading this grueling itinerary.

Bill

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 00:44:52 EDT
Subject: Re:  canvas top waterproof

In a message dated 5/19/98 1:36:32 PM, you wrote:

>The canvas top of my LR is wear out, of course I could get it from a land
>rover dealer as spare part, but my budget has a low profile. So I try use
>the old soft top again but I must make a treatment with something because
>the rain passes through.
>Any suggestion?

Cheapest solution: Don't drive in the rain. It will also help you keep a low
profile as no one will see you on the road... ;-)

------------------------------

From: Charles Kerr <charlesk@iafrica.com>
Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 09:18:05 +0200
Subject: Join

Join

------------------------------

From: torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee)
Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 15:27:45 +0800 (SGT)
Subject: Re: Unleaded Fuel catalyst

>No but I saw a report on it in Practical Classics magazine, May 1990 where
>they
>said Rover tried a similar thing called Carbonflo which is supposed to allow
>any car to run on ULP..
I have just received some reports on "Borquet Fuel Catalyst" and the
results from independant testing facilities are quite interesting:

RUF Automobile (a renowned tuner for Porsche) tested a 1995 Mazda Miata
MX-5 1.8 manual. Broquet increased horsepower output by 4 kW and added 8 Nm
more torque.

Separate testing by a R.E. Smith (consultant Engineer somewhere in
Worcester, UK) found that a 95 octane unleaded petrol powered Vauxhall
Astra 1.3l car tested for 675 miles expired the following emissions
percentages measured in grams per kilometre:
        CO2 decrease between 0% to 7%
        O2 decrease between 14% to 57%
        CO decrease between 23% to 51%
        HC decrease between 15% to 30%
        NOx varied between increase of 33% to decrease of 10%
        m.p.g. increase

Looking at these numbers, their claims seem to make some sense - an
increase in m.p.g. would result in reduction in mass the flow rate of
exhaust emissions and overall reduction of CO emissions.

There was no long term test reports on valve seat wear when used in
conjunction with unleaded fuel for leaded heads.

Looks like I can do with some added torque and reduced emissions. However,
the price seems quite inhibiting. Would U pay S$300.00 for something that
looks convincingly like the lead shots I use for fishing, wrapped in a
steel gauze? Does anyone in the UK know of a cheaper source?

Singapore cars are going to be weaned of leaded fuel come 1st July 1998.
It's about time I looked seriously at a cheap, hassle free, effective and
improved method to a head job, considering that I tend to do long haul
trips up north in ambient daytime temperatures in excess of 30degrees C.

Thanks for any comments.

Lawrence Lee,
'81 Ser III 109 2.6l "Kerbau"  (kerbau is the Malay name for water buffalo,
one that prefers to STAY in the mud)

------------------------------

From: gruno@att.net.hk (Keith Addison)
Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 15:38:25 +0800 (HKT)
Subject: Re: Rag tops

>In a message dated 19/05/98  13:56:16, you write:
><< the ragtops
> are not that precise anyway  >>
>neither are Land Rovers!!!
>best cheers

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>best cheers
>Frank

How can you say such a thing Frank?? They'd gotten the tolerances down to
mere nanomet... err, nanomiles by 1973! Actually no, checking it, they
hadn't got anywhere nanomiles. Maybe the one I saw was three inches too
long by mistake rather than the ragtop being three inches too short? As my
old mum used to say of my early efforts at carpentry: "Well, it fits where
it touches."

All best

Keith
Lantau Island
Hong Kong
1973 Series III Military Lightweight

------------------------------

From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 09:59:44 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Rag tops

On Wed, 20 May 1998, Keith Addison wrote:

> hadn't got anywhere nanomiles. Maybe the one I saw was three inches too
> long by mistake rather than the ragtop being three inches too short? As my

Reminds me of an article I saw in LRO (or maybe LRW?) a couple of years
ago. A British company were buliding some armoured 110s for use in Bosnia.
First they bought one vehicle, built the armour, and then used the finished
armour to build a jig for building more armour. They were rather surprised
when they tried to mount the next armour kit onto a 110 chassis... At some
spots it was off by more than an inch. Hm, the builders say, lets try another
110 chassis. Same problem, in different spots. The famous british build
quality leaves something to be desired in the size & shape dept. Oh well,
it makes for rather individual vehicles though :-)

-- 
Terje Krogdahl
http://www.land.rover.no
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

------------------------------

From: Frankelson <Frankelson@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 04:00:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Annoying Rattles

Also not your problem but........

New Range Rover owner called out the AA because of a buzzing sound in the
vehicle. After an exhaustive search it was traced to a battery powered shaver
in the man's briefcase.

best cheers

Frank

------------------------------

From: gruno@att.net.hk (Keith Addison)
Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 16:11:32 +0800 (HKT)
Subject: Re: Rag tops

>On Wed, 20 May 1998, Keith Addison wrote:
>> hadn't got anywhere nanomiles. Maybe the one I saw was three inches too
>> long by mistake rather than the ragtop being three inches too short? As my
>Reminds me of an article I saw in LRO (or maybe LRW?) a couple of years
>ago. A British company were buliding some armoured 110s for use in Bosnia.
>First they bought one vehicle, built the armour, and then used the finished
>armour to build a jig for building more armour. They were rather surprised
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
>--
>Terje Krogdahl

And I thought I was kidding!

Keith Addison
Lantau Island
Hong Kong
1973 Series III Military Lightweight

------------------------------

From: jkramer <jkramer@best.ms.philips.com>
Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 10:34:11 +0200
Subject: Re: SIII brake woes

> I suspect the problem could be in the master cylinder, but can the
> master cylinder be faulty without leaking?

It sure can! The presure can leak back into the container (tank) at the
master cylinder.I've had some trouble with this. After I overhault the
cylinder, the truck stops like one with disc brakes!

> It's a dual brake system
> with a brake servo, which works rather nicely. I've noticed a very slight
> flex in the plate around the mountings of the master cylinder, but I
> don't really believe this could be the problem, as it feels as though
> the pedal strikes the bottom of the master cylinder at the end of its
> stroke.

So you need to overhaul the master cylinder. You can check the servo by
pressing the brake padle and start the LR. The padle should come up, or
pushes harder to your foot. Otherwise it is out of order.

Regards,
Joost Kramer
LR 88, SIII stationwagon, 1980

------------------------------

From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 11:04:02 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: SIII brake woes

On Wed, 20 May 1998, jkramer wrote:

> > I suspect the problem could be in the master cylinder, but can the
> > master cylinder be faulty without leaking?

> It sure can! The presure can leak back into the container (tank) at the
> master cylinder.I've had some trouble with this.

Ugh. I guess it's master cylinder overhaul time again... Was afraid
of that.

> pressing the brake padle and start the LR. The padle should come up, or
> pushes harder to your foot. Otherwise it is out of order.

Yeah, the servo works fine. I was just worried about what seemed like a
slight flexing at the front of the servo housing, just where the cylinder
is bolted on. Happens only when someone is really stomping on the pedal
though, so I guess I'll not worry about that for now.

-- 
Terje Krogdahl
http://www.land.rover.no
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

------------------------------

From: Kuhl Dennis <Dennis.Kuhl@hvr.siemens.de>
Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 11:09:56 +0200
Subject: AW: NEED HELP

> ----------
> Von: 	RINGO JACK[SMTP:RINGOJACK@aol.com]
> Antwort an: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Gesendet: 	Dienstag, 19. Mai 1998 22:23
> An: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Betreff: 	NEED HELP
> Hi, I used to own a land rover but I sold it.  No I can't get off this
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> type and who to send it to exactly so I can cancel this.  Thanks.
> Mark Roby
	HI , 
	What a pity that you want to unsubscribe this list. 
	If you change my Name and Mailadress whith yours i think it will
work.

Welcome to the lro mailing list!

If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list,
you can send mail to "Majordomo" with the following command
in the body of your email message:

    unsubscribe lro Kuhl Dennis <Dennis.Kuhl@hvr.siemens.de>

By
		Dennis Kuhl

------------------------------

From: Frankelson <Frankelson@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 05:30:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Rag tops

In a message dated 20/05/98  07:43:35, you write:

<< As my
 old mum used to say of my early efforts at carpentry: "Well, it fits where
 it touches." >>

Keith, Hi

Ah yes, but it has to touch.........

Few years ago when the LSE Vogue Range Rover was announced, the actual vehicle
on the actual Motor Show UK stand, had panel gaps of 0.25 inch.
 

Dunno why we loves 'em. but we loves 'em.

best cheers

Frank

------------------------------

From: Frankelson <Frankelson@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 05:30:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Unleaded Fuel catalyst

In a message dated 20/05/98  07:30:29, you write:

<< Singapore cars are going to be weaned of leaded fuel come 1st July 1998.
 It's about time I looked seriously at a cheap, hassle free, effective and
 improved method to a head job, considering that I tend to do long haul
 trips up north in ambient daytime temperatures in excess of 30degrees C.
  >>

Seems to me that, depending on how long you intend to keep the car,  and the
mileages you do, that the head job has to be favourite.
 For a higher initial outlay all your worries are over. For ever, period.
 That's it, just pull up at the unleaded pump and off you go.

Like many people I am worried about the various claims for the additives, with
no real independent, long term, testing done - and as well as the cost there's
the hassle.

IMV

best cheers

Frank (110 diesel, now where's the rape seed oil?)

------------------------------

From: Loz <Loz@loz.softnet.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 00:15:29 +0100
Subject: Re: Annoying Rattles

Nope, tried that too....noise is definitely coming from the engine side of the
bulkhead. It's not the silencer touching the frame either as I've checked that.

Thanks for the suggestion anyway.

d.h.lowe wrote:

> Go to the supermarket......................Buy a "bunch" of
> Broccoli............Eat Broccoli............Save large elastic band holding
> Broccoli together...................Place around  Mr.Yellow knob and Mr.Red
> knob. ....No more rattles.....If you install an
> anti-rattle spring use small plastic tie wraps to hold it in place. You
> might also check if your exhaust pipe is touching the frame.
> Paul Quin wrote:
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> > One suggestion, when you hear the rattle, try grasping the HI/LO
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 22 lines)]

------------------------------

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Digest Messages Copyright 1990-1999 by the original poster or/and Empire Rover Owners Society, All rights reserved. Photos & text Copyright 1990-1999 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Empire/LRO List of charges for Empire/LRO Policies against the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Empire/LRO fees for the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Frequently Asked Questions
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