L-R Mailing Lists 1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary

Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 Adrian Redmond [channel633Re: Diesel pump expert needed
2 Oliver_Gottlob@t-online.59Swivel balls bearing & seals
3 "Christopher J. Clanton"17Border to Border Update???
4 TeriAnn Wakeman [twakema49Re: Border to Border Update???
5 Olafur Agust Axelsson [o18A klinging sound!
6 "Art Bitterman" [artbitt50 Brush Painting Problems
7 Alessandro Castellana [k22fuel pump alignment
8 MRogers315 [MRogers315@a17Re: SIII 88" front wheels
9 Rick Grant [rgrant@cadvi27Re: Border to Border Update???
10 Alessandro Castellana [k22icons
11 Adrian Redmond [channel639Re: Distributor pump timing
12 Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml18RE: Land Rover Painting Questions
13 "David and Cynthia Walke27Re: Brush Painting Problems
14 Russ Wilson [rwilson@usa20Re: Brush Painting Problems
15 "K. John Wood" [jwrover@18Re: Diesel pump expert needed
16 "William L. Leacock" [wl12Shell Alvania grease
17 TeriAnn Wakeman [twakema47Re: Border to Border Update???
18 "MARY THOMSON" [denthoms24Re: Distributor pump timing
19 "d.h.lowe" [dhlowe@idire33Re: 101' prices
20 "Richard Marsden"[rmarsd36Re: icons
21 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M19Re: Diesel pump expert needed


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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 17:11:25 +0200
Subject: Re: Diesel pump expert needed

Dear Peter -

I have no accurate torque figure for these bolts - but like so many on
the series vehicles, they require a sort of undefined, abstract,
imprecise and yet so specific tightening - Just enough but NOT too much!

It's really a matter of feel - when it breaks, you will feel that you
tightened it too hard.

Sorry about the vague accuracy of my answer - but that's about it.

Someone else will surely come with something about foot-pounds...

Good luck! Hope my recipe works.

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

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From: Oliver_Gottlob@t-online.de (Oliver Gottlob)
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 16:36:16 +0100
Subject: Swivel balls bearing & seals

Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> wrote:

Does anyone have the recipe and parts list for servicing/changing the 
swivel balls/pinions/bearings/seals/brakedrum backplates?

-----------
Hello Adrian,

I´ve done this to my an to a friends Landrover 109 in the last time but
i´ve no recipe. I recomend to change the Raiko brush and it´s
counterpart cone bearing.

If your swivel housing and seal is in good order you can repar it on the
car. (you must NOT strip the axle off. (but if it is worn ...) You will
also need the following parts (for one side):

1 576583	Swivel bolt (only if worn)
1 539742	Railko brush
1 528702	Railko washer 
1 217268	cone bearing (bottom)
1 531433	O-ring
4 531001	secure washer
1 230611	copper ring oil drain screw (only if worn)
1 3127		split pin
1 231505	gasket hub
1 217353	secure washer (the last three items are in the weel bearing kit 
         	RTC3534 )(if you want to change the bearings)

at first jack the truck up and remove the tyre. Soak all with wd40.
remove the six bolts from the hub then the crown nut an sprit pin with
washers. Now the sub axle is free.
Please loose the four nuts on the top of the swivel housing. Loose the
six bolts holding the big oilseal at the crome ball. remove the oilseal
carefull. drain the oil. remove the swivel pin (store the shims) . than
you can remove the complete outer housing. 
(is heave note the brake lines !) change the raico bush (hammerin it
with a short 
pipe out of the crome ball. then remove the bottom cone bearing housing
(also with a big hammer) fit the new ones. Change the O-ring at the
steering lever, refit the swivel housing, refit the shims and swivel pin
(and the securewashers). Now you must mesure the force is needed to turn
the swivel housing (abt 4kg) on the steering lever (inner hole). Change
the shims until it is abt 4 Kg. Know you must tighten the 4 bolts every
time. refit the hub.

I hope this will help you, but my english is not so good to explain this
easy.

Oli

1976 Landrover 109 Diesel "slow & smokey"  SO-XA 245
I´will be at the ARC Rally 1998      NEW look at my Homepage at:
http://www.qsl.net/dg5dbv/

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From: "Christopher J. Clanton" <clantoc@cscoe.ac.com>
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 12:02:47 -0500
Subject: Border to Border Update???

Anyone who participated in the Border to Border trek celebrating
LR's 50 Anniversary out there?   It sounded like a great idea
just wondering how it went?

*********************************************************
* Christopher Clanton               *   *     Andersen Consulting		
*
* clantoc@cscoe.ac.com           *   *     Minneapolis, MN USA		*
*                                             69 IIa 88				
*
*********************************************************  

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 11 May 98 10:58:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Border to Border Update???

;>Anyone who participated in the Border to Border trek celebrating
;>LR's 50 Anniversary out there?   It sounded like a great idea
;>just wondering how it went?
;>
;>*********************************************************
;>* Christopher Clanton               *   *     Andersen Consulting		
*
;>* clantoc@cscoe.ac.com           *   *     Minneapolis, MN USA		
*
;>*                                             69 IIa 88			
	*
;>*********************************************************  

I kept a journal about my experiences on the recently completed 
Trans-American Border to Border Trek.  I am in the process of typing the 
journal entries onto my web site.  If you are interested in experiencing 
the trek from the viewpoint of me and car #23, The Green Rover, you may 
log into my site and read what I have typed so far.  I will be a^Adding 
pictures when I get them developed and digitized.

These journal entries represent my own daily experiences of the trip.  If 
you would like to join me on this trek, the journal is on my web site { 
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman }.

When you get to the front page, press the Land Rover button at the bottom 
navagational panel. This will take you to my Land Rover related index 
page.  There you will find a section labeled Some adventures and trips.  
In that section is a link called "April '98 Border to Border 
Trans-American Trek"

I have the trip into Monument Valley entered so far.  The swim up Canyon 
de Chilly during flood stage will be next.  I will be transcribing the 
rest of the trip as I get time.

Take care

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: Olafur Agust Axelsson <olafura@rhi.hi.is>
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 17:25:23 +0000
Subject: A klinging sound!

Hi
I was wondering! - I often a hear strange - klinging sound when I start up
my engine! - this used to go away as the engine revs went up - and I
thought and think that it was connected with oil pressure - but sometimes
the oil pressure is high up but the klinging sound is still there! -
Someone ones told me it was the timing chain tensioner that was a bit
*stuck*! - If it is it! - why is he doing it? - and is it hard to fix?

Thanx

Olafur Agust
 

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From: "Art Bitterman" <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 12:25:20 -0600
Subject:  Brush Painting Problems
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi all!

I've been a subscriber for a month now,but have been lurking just =
soaking up the collective Knowledge of you fine gents and ladies. =
Haven't had a need to pipe up until now-------

"The Beast" was a sun faded Bronze Green. I decided with the 50th =
anniversary and all, I would give her a Paint job in Fire Engine Red. =
Did a search of the archives and decided to do the brush and foam paint =
roller method. Bought a gallon of Ace hardwares best enamel, a good =
brush ($4 !!!) and commenced to it yesterday.

Painted all the corner etc where the roller wouldn't fit first-no =
problems-a few brush marks, places where the 1st coat didn't cover-no =
sweat a 2nd coat (or so I thought!). Dumped some paint into the =
tray-.whipped out the roller and commenced to roll paint on. But what I =
got was a gazillion tiny bubbles in the rolled on paint! "oh, Sh*t" sez =
I and tried to brush it all out, with the effect of having massive brush =
marks in the paint job. Went to bed, got up and thought another coat of =
paint might cover some of the damage. Would it, hell!!!!

So, I figure I have to:

A- Strip all the paint off and spray it (If I can get a calm day!)
B_Wait a week for the paint to dry and cure REAL good and try wet =
sanding it, then using rubbing compound
C_ OR ???????????

Any Ideas on how to make a silk purse out of sows ear of a job? Or what =
I did wrong!!! I like the color and the high gloss I have, and it looks =
good from about 10 feet back, but up close!!!!!!!!!!

Happy Rovering!

Art Bitterman
Gunsmith
!960 SII 88" (rhd) "The Beast"
Trinidad,Colorado
"Jack of all Trades,Master of Some!"

------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BD7CD7.DDB85560
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From: Alessandro Castellana <kastel@tor.it>
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 20:26:32 +0200
Subject: fuel pump alignment

Hi all
On the triangual base of the pump, there are three studs which hold the
distributor onto the motor block. The flange which faces forward
(towards the radiator) has a fine line scribed onto it (clan it with
WD40 and you will see it!). The question is: the mark on the pump flange is
not align with the pointer, is it correct?
The idle is good but I have white smoke when warm up.
thanks in advance

'78  SIII 88" diesel 

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Alessandro Castellana
kastel@tor.it
Italy
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

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From: MRogers315 <MRogers315@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 14:38:29 EDT
Subject: Re: SIII 88" front wheels

>For the last three months I have been wondering why my front tyres are
>worn on the outside - now that i have the car stripped down to a rolling
>frame - I can see why!

Adrian
The wear may not be anything to do with the camber on the wheels which does
not sound too far out to me. Are you sure the tracking is correct as too much
"toe in" can cause this sort of wear on the tyres.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid

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From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 12:47:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Border to Border Update???

At 10:58 AM 11/05/98 -0700, TeriAnn Wakeman, wrote

>I kept a journal about my experiences on the recently completed 
>Trans-American Border to Border Trek. 

I meant to say this last week after you filed an account of your trip to
this list but I forgot, so. . . . I thought it was a great tale and I intend
to read more about the trek on your web page.  Well done.

But one question.  You mention breaking a front axle while traversing snow.
Just out of curiosity, what are the symptoms and how did you manage to keep
driving?

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

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From: Alessandro Castellana <kastel@tor.it>
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 20:39:48 +0200
Subject: icons

dear Richard
source of Land Rover icons are:
ftp://www.off-road.com
http://www.dbn.lia.net/users/landrover/
http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/LandRover/Landy.html
http://www.du.edu/~tomills/landrover.html#mech
http://www.worldoffroad.com/news/news.htm#lrm
Or you can use web-engine to found more links
ciao

'78  SIII  88" diesel
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Alessandro Castellana
kastel@tor.it
Italy
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 22:54:07 +0200
Subject: Re: Distributor pump timing

Dear Alesandro,

There is no way of telling if the datum pointer is set correctly, other
than by setting the distributor pump timing according to the long and
laborious method which is described in the manual, after which - if the
timing and performance is OK, you aling the datum pointer with the
scribe mark - that way - if you move the pump, you can set it back in
the same position - but whether that position is correcxt depends on the
timing having been right when the datum was positioned - if you are not
sure of what the datum is reffering to, you cannot be sure that it means
anything at all!

Although - if your datum hasn't been adjusted for many years, and if the
pump mechanics and camshaft/timing chain relationship is still sound -
it could be, that the datum indicates a better timing position - but -
who knows?

Good luck anyway - I hope this explains the problem correctly

Ciao!

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 14:33:50 -0700
Subject: RE: Land Rover Painting Questions

The BC Rover-Landers LR Club has posted an excellent Land Rover painting
guide by our very own David Walker.

See it at:
http://www.roverlanders.bc.ca/bclandrover/FAQ/LRpaintMain.html

Its very comprehensive & informative!

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/
Victoria, BC  Canada

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 14:58:34 -0700
Subject: Re:  Brush Painting Problems

Painting solutions

Well, you did it now.......
Paint with a foam roller only, use a foam brush to 'tip off' the paint.

Cheap enamels are a bit on the soft side - but since you have done it...
You can either strip the paint or let it dry for at least 6 weeks and sand.
Sanding earlier will just goo up the surface and the sandpaper.

I have gone through the school of hard painting knocks - and done them all!!
I should tell you about the time I used a short nap roller on a VW - the nap
came off!! - the resultant 'fuzzy' paint job was enough for me.

You will never, NEVER be able to polish out the cheap paint. I wrote a
twenty page article on Painting your Land Rover - I will send you the link.

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.4 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch - our home

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From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 19:26:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Brush Painting Problems

>A- Strip all the paint off and spray it (If I can get a calm day!)
>B_Wait a week for the paint to dry and cure REAL good and try wet =
>sanding it, then using rubbing compound
>C_ OR ???????????
Option C.... which would be to just drive the thing through as much mud and
undergrowth as possible.   I painted mine with spay cans from K-mart.  It
looks red, which was the idea and all that I was really concerned with.
Don't sweat it...  Just drive it and relax....

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 05:26:39 -0600
Subject: Re: Diesel pump expert needed

Peter,

The two pieces you are describing are fastened from the inside. The pump is
designed not to be rebuilt in the field due to the nature of Diesel fuel
purity requirements.

I suggest you find a reliable, good, knowledgable diesel shop that can
rebuild the unit for you or look to purchase a new one from the UK.

Sorry!

John

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From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 21:33:55 -0400
Subject: Shell Alvania grease

Mike Rogers :     Shell Alvania is excellent grease for the LR. It is a high
quality bearing grease, when I was an electric motor bearing fitter several
decades ago, one of the first jobs i had upon leaving school,  Alvania was
the standard bearing grease. Good luck at Eastnor, wish I was going !!
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 11 May 98 19:42:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Border to Border Update???

;>>I kept a journal about my experiences on the recently completed 
;>>Trans-American Border to Border Trek. 
;>I meant to say this last week after you filed an account of your trip to
;>this list but I forgot, so. . . . I thought it was a great tale and I 
intend
;>to read more about the trek on your web page.  Well done.

Thanks. I have just finished transcribing the day we went into Canyon de 
Chilly while it was in flood stage.  Yesterday I added the leg out of 
Moab which was very interesting. I have started entering the second to 
last day of the official trip.

The journal entry is REAL long, but it is definitely one driver's view.

;>But one question.  You mention breaking a front axle while traversing 
snow.
>Just out of curiosity, what are the symptoms and how did you manage to keep
;>driving?

Well I came to a stop and got stuck in the snow.  The front prop shaft 
turned but the front wheels did not turn.  Essentially I found myself in 
two wheel drive.  I winched myself out and kept going on rear wheel drive 
because of my driving ability and the capabilities of The Green Rover.  
Also I stayed away from the deep snow.  

Later that day climbing steep hills on a rough trail I became convinced 
that if I still had the stock Rover rear end installed I would have 
broken a rear axle.  Then I would really be in the deep brown stuff 
without a paddle.  I was doing steep climbing on rough ground in rear 
wheel drive with a 5000 pound car.  The Salisbury kept me going.

If you read day 4 of my journal you can see the process I went through 
diagnosing the problem.

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: "MARY THOMSON" <denthomson@sprint.ca>
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 23:39:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Distributor pump timing

Just out of interest there is a timing tool for setting the injector pump
pointer. Once the engine has been set at the correct timing mark on the
flywheel the timing tool is inserted in the hole where the pump goes and
the adjustable pointer is then set.  Insert the pump remove inspection
cover from side of pump and check markers. I have the tool / pumps / and
injectors.  Peter.(Kangaroo)    

----------
> From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Re: Distributor pump timing
> Date: Monday, May 11, 1998 4:54 PM
> Dear Alesandro,
> There is no way of telling if the datum pointer is set correctly, other

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 41 lines)]
> e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
> Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 12:43:28 -0400
Subject: Re: 101' prices

Michael.............Tom T. sends his apologies for not dropping in to see you
on his swing through your neck of the woods. He was too busy looking after
Larry in his 88. A special thanks by the way to Gordon Parrot and his wife,
Paul Quinn , Dave Dryfuss, "Uncle Roger" and last but not least by any stretch
of the imagination to the legend of the Wet Coast,  Scotty who was in the
process of moving from Concord to Stockholm but still took time to help Larry.
You know it doesn`t get any better than that, it`s what this Rover stuff is all
about. Larry was mightily impressed.( He`s in San Diego at the moment and will
soon be heading for the Baha)
Ignore the comments from "Mary" Thomson.......a shy retiring Antipodean Drongo
who use to go to school not far from Ron Beckett ..................He keeps his
Series I at my place and I can always fix him. He is jealous because he is too
damn big to fit behind the wheel of my 101.How the hell he fits in his Series I
with his knees up around his ears is a sight for sore eyes.

Michael Fredette wrote:

>  Who would want a 101. If you can get them to go that in it's self is a
>  challenge, and the ones that I have seen get stuck in parking lots and get
>  washed down little streams. Or was that a big stream, and a wet parking
>  lot.
> Mary, Mary,
>      Ah jealousy, it's a terrible thing. A shame to see it rearing it's
>  ugly ugly head here :^)
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Mike
> 101FC

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From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 08:38:19 +0100
Subject: Re: icons

Thanks - I'll have a look around.

Thanks for the logo you sent.  I heard a vicious rumour that Land Rover
didn't like people using their logo?   Trademarks and all that?

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

kastel@tor.it on 05/11/98 07:39:48 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  icons

dear Richard
source of Land Rover icons are:
ftp://www.off-road.com
http://www.dbn.lia.net/users/landrover/
http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/LandRover/Landy.html
http://www.du.edu/~tomills/landrover.html#mech
http://www.worldoffroad.com/news/news.htm#lrm
Or you can use web-engine to found more links
ciao
'78  SIII  88" diesel
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Alessandro Castellana
kastel@tor.it
Italy
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 10:26:05 +0000
Subject: Re: Diesel pump expert needed

>I suggest you find a reliable, good, knowledgable diesel shop that can
>rebuild the unit for you or look to purchase a new one from the UK.

I had this problem with mine.Cured for £68 at a local diesel specialist.
A new pump is twice that price.They didnt remove the pump from the
vehicle to do it,either.What they *did* do was retime the pump.This
had the effect of releasing more power from the engine.So the clutch slipped
all the way home.Which in turn,led to my having to fit a new clutch.Which
in turn led to a new clutch slave cylinder and flex hose.(Tip:for RHD
vehicles anyway,when fitting a new clutch flex hose on an 88",use a
109" part.Its longer,and doesnt foul anything.)Pity you didnt write
that six months ago Adrian:-)
Mike Rooth

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