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From: Autoconv <Autoconv@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 08:31:55 EST
Subject: Re: Overdrives

Hi Matt,

You mention you are looking at Ser III Overdrive options, have you considered
the High Ratio Transfer case we make, The gearing is higher than the OD and
they do not break, you can get more info on our web site at  www.autoconv.com

Dave

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 98 08:19:10 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Mercruiser

>I have been following the posts on the Mercruiser engine swap but call 
>me slow or some thing but I don't recall any one mentioning where they 
>come from. Is it a decendant of the diesel that Land Rover sold to 
>Mercury for marine use?
   >John and Muddy

John you're so slow or something.
No its the marine version of the Chevy "iron duke" 4 cylinder. Robert Davis of 
VA has adapted it and I believe recammed it to fit the stock rover manifolds 
and frame mounts. Its literally a straight bolt in conversion. I'd like to tell 
you more but we are not allowed to ask questions. Its 140hp, and it aint cheap, 
but its supposed to be really good. I've ridden in one, but never drove it. 

cheers
DaveB 
I guess we're all a bit slow when we're in our Rovers.

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 98 08:25:44 EST
Subject: Re: mean people

>  I offered room and board with beer thrown in.  You are always 
>welcome as long as you don't molest the cat like last time.   :)

For those not in the know, Russ's SO's nickname is "The cat"...sorry Les...
I admit I got a little out of control, but she was lookin' pretty good. Askin 
for it even. Ummm.
And she drives a SIII...or will someday anyway...
We should take this off the list...
More 90 weight, ma!
Oh yes on "The Daily Show" last night they had Olivia Newton John and they 
asked her a trivia question to which the answer was "grease". She didn't get 
it...
Was a LR in one of the commercials
later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY <AKBLACKLEY@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 08:38:49 EST
Subject: LR interia starter

Someone said that the LR interia bendix drive type starter is unique to LR. I
dont think so. Back in '93 I bought a used Austin Healey 3000 starter for $50
and it fit and worked great on my '70 SIIA (since sold, sniff...). Of course
finding a starter for a Big Healey isnt so easy either. My recommendation: try
the local Brit car sources, then look in Hemmings for purveyors of used parts.
I got mine from Scot Harper (Team Triumph) in Warren Ohio. But supply of used
parts is catch as catch can. Good Luck. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

From: Karl Kurz <kkurz@acad.umm.maine.edu>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 10:10:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Scotland Land Rover rental? 

I am planning a fishing trip on the western end of the River Dee this
august and was wondering if anyone had any local knowledge of a place to
hire a LR for the week......perhaps in Aberdeen ?

Karl K. Kurz, N1JZY
POB 352, Machiasport
Maine, 04654
207-255-4036
1962 ex-MOD model 8
1962 Unimog 404
1986 Audi Quattro 4000

------------------------------

From: "Ian Boddison" <bod.glass@easynet.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 15:15:08 -0000
Subject: Use of clutches

With all this talk of overdrives can I get the panels opinion on a driving
style.

With regard only to the stresses and wear that is going to be put onto the
mechanical components,   which is better - to use the clutch or not.

It is perfectly possible to drive without use the clutch for anything except
starting off and I rarely use the clutch for any gearchanges above second
gear.  My girlfriend has recently (six months) passed her driving test and
hates the idea of changing gear without using the clutch especially in her
car (a jap saloon [urhh!]).   But I am of the opinion that the clutch will
last longer if not used regularly assuming that the road and engine speeds
are matched correctly.

Opinions please.

Cheers,
Bod.
LWB SIIA

------------------------------

From: "Ian Boddison" <bod.glass@easynet.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 15:06:27 -0000
Subject: Re: Fairey vs. Toro

>What are the differences between the two in installation, use, etc.?  I'm
>assuming the Toro can be engaged in any gear just as the Fairey, right?
>Also, I was unaware that the Toros were available at all.  Are NOS ones
>still out there?  I've heard enough Fairey horror stories to wonder if the
>Toro is a better choice if obtainable.  Thanks for your comments.  Brian

Do not forget that there have been a few other mechanical o/d's over the
years.  I currently run a Fairley unit in Clifford (LWB SIIA 2286 Petrol)
and have no problems with it whatsoever.   I ran a similar unit on a SWB
Diesel for several years which included some pretty demanding towing work.
I have also used the BearMach o/d unit which I do not remember any
particular problems with except that it was a b*****er to fit as the
operating shaft comes through the seat base not the transmission tunnel.

As a general point with all mechanical o/d's.  They do not really like loads
of torque.   The way I drive is to start off in 1st (o/d out) then 2nd then
3rd then 3rd+o/d then (the interesting one) grab both main and o/d lever and
in one move change to 4th (o/d out) then finally go to 4th+o/d.   On the way
down the box I just leave the o/d in until I stop and select 1st again.   Or
more usually I drop the o/d into neutral and cost to a halt selecting 1st
whilst still moving.  This means that I have 1st engaged on the main box
with the o/d in neutral so that I can engage the drive with the o/d - big
advantage when the main box is non-synchro!

Cheers,
Bod

------------------------------

From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 10:28:26 -0600
Subject: Use of clutches

>>>>> "Ian" == Ian Boddison <bod.glass@easynet.co.uk> writes:

    Ian> It is perfectly possible to drive without use the clutch for
    Ian> anything except starting off and I rarely use the clutch for
    Ian> any gearchanges above second gear.  My girlfriend has recently
    Ian> (six months) passed her driving test and hates the idea of
    Ian> changing gear without using the clutch especially in her car (a
    Ian> jap saloon [urhh!]).  But I am of the opinion that the clutch
    Ian> will last longer if not used regularly assuming that the road
    Ian> and engine speeds are matched correctly.

    Ian> Opinions please.

If you drive "normally" (no clutch drops, only moderately spirited
driving) a modern clutch can and often will last the life of the car.  I
have ~100K on my Shadow's and I did a couple of years of SCCA Solo II in
it.  I even took it out on a road track a couple of times.  Of course,
shocks, springs, tires and brakes wear at higher rates when you do that,
so don't ask about them, but the clutch seems fine.  I'm also a stickler
about maintenance and such, though, and I never (never, never) ride the
clutch.  That said, a LR clutch, even one made with modern materials, is
not a modern clutch, but I'd probably still shift it with the clutch.
It's not _that_ big a job to replace it, and it's cheaper than gear
teeth...
								-MM

------------------------------

From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 10:49:10 -0800
Subject: Re: LR interia starter

At 08:38 AM 3/26/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Someone said that the LR interia bendix drive type starter is unique to LR.

------------>   That was me.
>dont think so. Back in '93 I bought a used Austin Healey 3000 starter for $50
>and it fit and worked great on my '70 SIIA (since sold, sniff...).
--------------->  Both starters are the same model (read, type)
They are not the same part number, which is how I read the original
question. Lucas' model numbers indicate a design style and general
characteristics, they do not validate interchangeability. In this case the
Land Rover starter model M418G inertia drive has an 11 tooth drive pinion
and the Healey 3000 M418G starter has a 10 tooth drive pinion.
	Perhaps its good you sold your SIIA before you had ring gear problems?
	What I was intending to mean in answering the original question was that
the Triumph starter is not the same. .. similar perhaps, and I was offering
to investigate the interchangeabilty of unit and/or components. 
	I enjoy comparing and digging into "will fit" parts applications (it's 
my
full-time job). But I usually have to depend on manufacturer's design data
(for liabilty reasons) rather than walking around yards (which I much
rather do). (I especially like this Mercruiser thread!) 
Cheers    Peter 

 
Peter Caldwell
MGC-GT  , 100-4, '31 MM8 Cammy, Innocenti S,
'52 Champ, '60 L-R 109 SW, 3 '64-73 L-R 88's

http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport

 

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 09:31:04 -0800
Subject: RE: Mercruiser

I'm working on fuzzy 15 year old memories here, but weren't mercruiser
marine engines geared/timed to rotate in the opposite direction of that
of road engines?

Paul.

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 98 13:17:24 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Mercruiser

>I'm working on fuzzy 15 year old memories here, but weren't mercruiser 
>marine engines geared/timed to rotate in the opposite direction of that 
>of road engines?

Yes, These were used in limited quantities for the Sea Rover conversions, 
except for south of the Equator...

Cheers,
Taylor :)

------------------------------

From: JSmallals <JSmallals@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 14:07:14 EST
Subject: Help!  Electric fuel pump blues...

Hello all,
Have a 66IIA swb with a rochester...last year i mounted an electric fuel pump
which ran through the existing pump...(mounted between the tank and mechanical
pump)  and have been running this way for a year.  Recently, the truck began
stalling on me a inappropriate times, when this happens, the electric pump
starts clicking and won't stop...hence, either the pump is bad or something is
clogging my system. Unlikely since the tank has been boiled and there is a new
fuel filter.  ...my question is, what psi should I replace the old electric
with.  It doesn't say on the old pump...  I have an electric that is a demand
4-7psi...will this work?    

Also, what are the drawbacks of running with the electric and the mechanical?
This seems to my feeble mind the perfect setup.  When the mechanic pump locks
up, i simply switch on the electric.  Is there a flaw in this line of
thinking?   

many thanks,
James Small
66IIA SWB SW
Denver, CO

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 98 15:25:43 EST
Subject: Re: Help!  Electric fuel pump blues...

> When the mechanic pump locks up, i simply switch on the electric.  Is there 
>a flaw in this line of thinking?   

the mechanical pump is *a zillion* times more reliable than any electric pump 
and is rebuildable. Carry a rebuild kit or a spare if you are really worried 
about it. If you are really *really* paranoid, than an electric pump mounted 
and wired up that you can activate by simply switching a few hoses around would 
be ideal. 
The mechaincal pump is very very unlikely to "lock up".
A new aftermarket mechanical pump is $50. Save yourself (and us:)) the 
headache.

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 12:40:20 -0800
Subject: Brake reservoir preservation

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 98 14:45:27 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Overdrives

>>  The plastic reservoir for the brake master cylinder hardened,
crazed, 
>and cracked a number of years ago, but now that I know how to keep that

>from happening, the replacement has had no problems.

>please share this with the rest of us...

The problem is this: you drive around and the engine gets hot.  You stop
at the store or wherever, and everything in the engine compartment gets
hot including the plastic brake fluid reservoir.  You come out of the
store and start driving again.  Cold(er) outside air flows into the
engine compartment through the gap between the hood (bonnet) and fender
(wing).  On left-hand drive Series III Land Rovers, the position of the
plastic brake reservoir is such that the cold air coming through the gap
hits the reservoir right smack in the middle of its forward and left
sides.  Over time, this heating and sudden cooling causes the plastic to
discolor, harden, and craze at the point where the cold air hits it.
When my original reservoir failed, most of the container was just fine;
the only place that crazed and finally cracked was the front left
corner.

The solution is simple: insulate the plastic reservoir.  I was working
at Boeing by the time I found all this out, so I simply got a scrap of
the blanket (insulation) material we use between the interior panels and
outer fuselage of our planes and sewed it into a flame-proof,
form-fitted cover for the reservoir.  However anything will work: a
hollowed out chunk of foam, whatever.  All you need to do is provide
enough insulation to prevent the "shock cooling" of the plastic when you
start driving again after the plastic's been heated up by a hot engine.
I suppose there might also be an advantage in covering the reservoir as
it protects if from ultraviolet light and keeps oil and dirt from
settling on it.   I replaced my original reservoir in 1981 or
thereabouts so the vehicle would have been about seven years old.  It's
now, what, 17 years later, and the plastic reservoir seems to be in as
good a condition as when I installed it.  At least there is no visible
hardening and crazing or discoloration.

I doubt the problem exists for right-hand-drive vehicles as the brake
reservoir sits more toward the middle of the engine compartment, and so
doesn't have a sharp stream of cold air blowing directly on it.

Anyway, that's been my experience for whatever it's worth.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 16:13:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re[2]: Mercruiser

>>I'm working on fuzzy 15 year old memories here, but weren't mercruiser
>>marine engines geared/timed to rotate in the opposite direction of that
>>of road engines?
>Yes, These were used in limited quantities for the Sea Rover conversions,
>except for south of the Equator...
>Cheers,
>Taylor :)

This is also why R.Davis charges $5,000 for the conversion.  He has
engineered a way to mount the engine upsidedown and backwards so that it
will work in a LR.

hope this helps

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 07:28:58 +1000
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: re: Overdrives
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 10:54:12 -0800
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 15:42:38 EST
Subject: Re: Overdrives
>>I installed a Fairey overdrive in my Land Rover Series III-88 shortly
after I
>bought it new in 1973.
>Others on this group seem to have had bad luck with Fairey
>Overdrives. I have not.
>Oh marin, we are getting tired of hearing about how trouble free your
Land
Rover has been! Doesn't ANYTHING ever go wrong with it.

from his explanation - it appears not that he has owned some amasingly,
fantastic, never-go-wrong Land Rover that has never been avaiable to us
mere mortals but rather that Marin has fixed the 'minor' problems long
befor they've had the chance to become 'major' (not just hidden the
symptoms) - probably a good lesson for us all certainly on the big-ticket
items :-)

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 13:29:11 -0800
Subject: Inverted  Mercruiser's

	>This is also why R.Davis charges $5,000 for the conversion.  He
has
	engineered a way to mount the engine upside-down and backwards
so that it
	will work in a LR.<

	Should work well with that upside-down Australian fuel pump then
eh?  ;-)

	Paul.

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 17:01:49 -0500
Subject: Starters

Hi all
Was wondering if anybody knows of any other engines that used the inertia
type starter used on SerIIA 2.25 engine. My starter seems to be dying and 
the closest Lucas parts dealer has alot of used Triumphs. Any ideas.

Hello,
	Unfortunately the starter for our LR's is unique. Mostly because of the
drive. A very desparate person could probably make the case with windings
and brushes fit the front plate and armature from an early TR4/TR6 work. If
you are VERY serious, I can investigate. I do have all the materials to do
the research, just trying to allocate time resources. (we also carry
brushes, etc. for that starter).
	Let me know if you want me to pursue.
	Cheers     Peter

 This is not so, The starter from several  british leyland vehicles are the
same or similar to the land rover starter.
 The Rover 2000 inertia type, both M418 and M45 series, the variuos models
of Rover cars with 6 cylinder engines are fitted with the M418, or the
heavty duty M45 starter. I also believe that one of the Larger Morris cars
was fitted with an M54 which would fit a Lnd Rover.
 Lucas played the parts interchangeability game, there are probably several
others which could be used if the gear or end brackets were interchanged.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 17:03:58 -0500
Subject: Date

Whats with the date being listed a gazillion times in the digest ?
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 98 17:17:23 EST
Subject: repair ethics

> Marin has fixed the 'minor' problems long befor they've had the chance 
>to become 'major' (not just hidden the symptoms) - probably a good lesson 
>for us all certainly on the big-ticket items :-)

oh, pooh pooh. Drive em till they break! Fix when it gets warm out...
Some of my best work has been done on the side of the road, or worse.
Nothing beats genuine parts like a good beer can and some duct tape!
No beer cans laying around? Just drink one...or two depending on the size of 
the job...

g'night
Dave "pass the hammer" B.

------------------------------

From: David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 17:40:48
Subject: Re: Starters

 "This is not so, The starter from several  british leyland vehicles are the
same or similar to the land rover starter.
 The Rover 2000 inertia type, both M418 and M45 series, the variuos models
of Rover cars with 6 cylinder engines are fitted with the M418, or the
heavty duty M45 starter. I also believe that one of the Larger Morris cars
was fitted with an M54 which would fit a Lnd Rover.
 Lucas played the parts interchangeability game, there are probably several
others which could be used if the gear or end brackets were interchanged.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA."

I hesitate to post this because I'm going by a beer soaked memory. I had
a bunch of Rover TC 2000's (there were 2 starter types-one was a little 
larger than the other). I remember people telling me that the one of the 
2000 starters was the same as the starter for a late '60s XKE. So if you 
have a broken down L-R AND a yard full of E-type parts cars, check it out.
BTW...I had a Rover 2000 starter rebuilt at a local Alternator/Starter/
small motor shop once for about $40. Best Pete in Richmond, Va.
 

------------------------------

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 06:49:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Help!  Electric fuel pump blues...

The standard Rover pump pressures are .....Diesel  5 to 8 psi.   Petrol   2 to 4
psi.

JSmallals wrote:

> Hello all,
> Have a 66IIA swb with a rochester...last year i mounted an electric fuel pump
> which ran through the existing pump...(mounted between the tank and mechanical
> pump)  and have been running this way for a year.  Recently, the truck began
> stalling on me a inappropriate times, when this happens, the electric pump
> starts clicking and won't stop...hence, either the pump is bad or something is
> clogging my system. Unlikely since the tank has been boiled and there is a new
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
> 66IIA SWB SW
> Denver, CO

------------------------------

From: DONOHUE PE <DONOHUEPE@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 18:51:23 EST
Subject: Arizona

Next week I will be in Phoenix for a few days.  Are there any Land Rover
events scheduled during the week?   Am open to suggestions.

Paul Donohue
Denver
1965 Land Rover Dormobile

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 20:13:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Good used-parts suppliers?

David Cockey wrote:
> Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:
> > With this, the imperative becomes - where can I find a good new/used
> > parts
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 9 lines)]
> > I'm
> > there.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> It's a garage which has a number of sheds stuffed with used parts, and
> the prices seemed very reasonable for the small items we were after.

Good things come from Plumpton, Like me !!!!!!

 John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 20:20:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Use of clutches

Ian Boddison wrote:
> With all this talk of overdrives can I get the panels opinion on a driving
> style.
> With regard only to the stresses and wear that is going to be put onto the
> mechanical components,   which is better - to use the clutch or not.
> It is perfectly possible to drive without use the clutch for anything except
> starting off and I rarely use the clutch for any gearchanges above second

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> are matched correctly.
> Opinions please.
 If you don't use the clutch watch for brass filings in the tranny oil
when you change it.  This is the remains of of your syncro rings.
 Do the clutch thing it is cheaper in the long run.
  John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: jory bell <jory@apple.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 18:04:50 -0800
Subject: Land Rovers in Cork, Ireland? [again]

Well, I am in Cork Ireland again for work. Probably returning next month
too. Any LRO's in the area? I've been here a weel and seen several well
used and seemingly well maintained series vehicles and the odd D90. I'll be
around through early next week.

Cheers,
jory bell

------------------------------

From: RykRover <RykRover@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 21:17:15 EST
Subject: brake problem on SIIa

Hi All, 
Ok, hear goes.   I have a `63 SIIa 88'' that has had new  brake cylinders,
lines, shoes,master cylinder , and it has been bleed countless times. However
when the pedal is applied there is no pressure until the second time down(at
this point the pedal is solid not spongey) , but it goes back to no pressure
after 10-15 seconds if your not using the brake.   any thoughts????????

RGDS, Rick

`63 SIIa 88''
`94 D-90
`96 Disco SD
`98 BMW Z-3

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 98 18:31:18 -0800
Subject: Re: brake problem on SIIa

 
;>Ok, hear goes.   I have a `63 SIIa 88'' that has had new  brake 
cylinders,
;>lines, shoes,master cylinder , and it has been bleed countless times. 
However
;>when the pedal is applied there is no pressure until the second time 
down(at
;>this point the pedal is solid not spongey) , but it goes back to no 
pressure
;>after 10-15 seconds if your not using the brake.   any thoughts????????

OK what  happens if you adjust a eight (8) snail cams so that all eight 
of the shoes are locked against the drums?

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: DHW4U <DHW4U@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 23:35:48 EST
Subject: Re: brake problem on SIIa

i notice you didn't replace the drums this sounds very familiar i my case the
drums were cut a few too many times and shoes would not adjust or expand
enough on the first stomp.

dave
65 IIa 88
landchaser

------------------------------

From: Budduh Holluh <jtomps@mail.wm.edu>
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 00:43:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: General Question

Hello,

My name is Justin Omps and I just bouht my first Land Rover about a month
ago.  She's a '71 88' Series IIa.  I live in Williamsburg, Virginia and
was wondering if anyone around the area knew of any places to go
off-roading.
This is my first 4-wheeler and I don't have much off-road experience.
Actually, I'm embarrased to admit that I've already gotten her stuck once
in a logging rut.  At any rate I was wondering who was out there in my
neck of the woods.  Also, does anyone have a working speedometer they are
willing to sell? (757) 229-3690.

------------------------------

From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 00:50:03 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: Use of clutches

LET ME APOLOGIZE UP FRONT FOR YELLING LIKE THIS.  ITS NOT MY FAULT. MY
COMPUTER WONT LET ME USE ANYTHING BUT CAPITALS SO I DON"T EVEN HAVE COMMAS OR
APOSTROPHES.  THE PERIOD IS A DECIMAL FROM THE CALCULATOR.  ANYONE HAVE A
CHEAP 486 FOR SALE?

ANYWAY MY DAD WAS AN OVER THE ROAD TRUCK DRIVER FOR MOST OF MY CHILDHOOD AND
HE DROVE IN THE 70S WHEN TRUCKS HAD 13 SPEED TRANSMISSIONS WITH SPLITTERS AND
WHAT-NOT--PRETTY SIMILAR TO DRIVING A SERIES II I RECKON.

ONCE MY CLUTCH WAS ACTING UP (OK--ONE OF THE TIMES MY CLUTCH WAS ACTING UP) MY
DAD SUGGESTED SHIFTING WITHOUT THE CLUTCH AND SAID THAT WAS THE STANDARD WAY
TO DRIVE TRACTOR-TRAILERS IN THE 70S.  I DID IT FOR A WHILE AND ITS DEFINITELY
DOABLE--EASIER IF YOU GET A TACH SINCE THAT WILL HELP YOU MAKE SURE YOUR RPMS
AND MPH MATCH UP LIKE THEY HAVE TO FOR THIS TO WORK.

AS TO GRINDING THE GEARS I"M NOT AFRAID TO ADMIT THAT I DO THAT A COUPLE TIMES
A DAY (EVEN WITH THE CLUTCH)WHEN DOWNSHIFTING INTO SECOND BECAUSE I MISJUDGE
THE RPM-SPEED THING.  NOT BAD MIND YOU BUT ENOUGH TO MAKE ME CURSE UNDER MY
BREATH AS I REV HER UP AND TRY AGAIN AS THE CARS BEHIND ME WONDER WHY I"M
STILL SLOWING DOWN NOW THAT THE LIGHT IS GREEN.

BILL RICE
64 SIIA 109
91 APPLE MACINTOSH CLASSIC (IN ITS DEATH THROES)
90 SCHMITT STIX SKATEBOARD

------------------------------

From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 00:56:56 EST
Subject: SPEAKING OF SPEEDOMETERS

I ONCE HAD THE ADDRESS OF A PLACE THAT WOULD REBUILD DEFUNCT
SPEEDOMETERS__DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A PLACE IN THE STATES I CAN GET THIS DONE? 

I"D LIKE TO REBUILD THE ORIGINAL ONE FROM MY 109 SINCE THE ONE IN IT"S FROM A
SERIES III AND IS NOW STARTING TO PLAY THE OLD "GUESS YOUR ACTUAL SPEED" GAME.
"YES STEP RIGHT UP--YOUR ACTUAL SPEED IS SOMEWHERE BETWEEN THESE NUMBERS I
KEEP BOUNCING AROUND.  OR AM I REALLY OFF OF A SER III WITH 15" WHEELS.  IF I
AM YOUR SPEED IS SOME PERCENTAGE HIGHER"

BILL RICE
64 SIIA 109
90 SCHMITT STIX SKATEBOARD

------------------------------

From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Fri, 27 Mar 1998 09:00:47 +0100
Subject: Re: Overdrives

At 08:31 1998-03-26 EST, you wrote:
>Hi Matt,
>You mention you are looking at Ser III Overdrive options, have you considered
>the High Ratio Transfer case we make, The gearing is higher than the OD and
>they do not break, you can get more info on our web site at  www.autoconv.com
>Dave

Hi Dave,

I recently bought a series3 Landrover with a high ratio transfer case
already installed. I am not sure it is yours but I believe that is the
case. I just went to your homepage and checked the info you give about this
conversion. There you say the speedo is not affected. In my LR the speedo
constantly shows 30% lower speed than actual. Is it possible for me to fix
this in an easy manner?

/Peter

Peter Thoren
Work:  Department of Genetics
       Uppsala University
       Box 7003; S-750 07 Uppsala
       Phone: +46 18 67 12 69
       Fax:   +46 18 67 27 05
       e-mail peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

Home:  Långmyrtorp
       740 20 Vänge
       Phone/fax: +46 18 39 20 56
       e-mail: same as above

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 10:04:06 +0100
Subject: Re: Help!  Electric fuel question diesel/petrol

Hello roverists

Because I am currently taking apart two  '88s, one Petrol  and 
one diesel, I am wondering if I could use the petrol  electric fuel 
pump or the diesel electric pump regardless of the engine I Install.
One of the postings which I just read suggests they deliver diffrent 
pressures, so, no interchangeability?

What of the rest of the fuel systems, tanks, lines, filters wich 
parts of the petrol setup could I use for a diesel installation 
or vice versa (at this point  it is not clear to me what the best 
choice of engine would be)

Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

From: Autoconv <Autoconv@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 05:03:43 EST
Subject: Re: Overdrives

Hi Peter,

The High ratio transfer case cannot affect the speedo drive as the ratio
changes before the drive gear, i can only guess that the diffs have been
changed for RR ratio (3.54), this would change the speedo as you describe.

Dave  

------------------------------

From: "Ian Boddison" <bod.glass@easynet.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 10:47:41 -0000
Subject: Re: Use of clutches

> If you don't use the clutch watch for brass filings in the tranny oil
>when you change it.  This is the remains of of your syncro rings.
> Do the clutch thing it is cheaper in the long run.

The brass filings only get into the oil if you have syncro rings (which I do
on half my gears) and if you don't match the engine & road speed accurately
which is easy with a bit of practice.

------------------------------

From: "Ian Boddison" <bod.glass@easynet.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 10:49:06 -0000
Subject: Shouting (was: Re: Re: Use of clutches)

>LET ME APOLOGIZE UP FRONT FOR YELLING LIKE THIS.  ITS NOT MY FAULT

Have you tried taking off 'Caps Lock'!!!

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