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   Contents:

   Message Digest Contents

 msg Sender                             Lines Subject
   1  "T.D.I.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gl   32 Re: Snow
   2  WRaymoure <WRaymoure@aol.com>       25 Re: moving big stuff...
   3  Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com    28 Re: moving big stuff...
   4  Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca            43 LRNA please note:I want a TDI
   5  g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)            18 Re: Fueling around
   6  nickf@co.wayne.in.us (Nick Fankha   27 Re: Dieseling
   7  "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pi   36 Deep snow
   8  David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>   13 Re: Deep snow
   9  Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>       21 Re: Deep snow
  10  "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pi   30 Dieseling
  11  "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pi   27 Big stuff
  12  linux <linux@ocelot.demon.co.uk>    26 Re: This "Unusual" Fuel Pump
  13  Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.te   29 Re: Deep snow
  14  Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.te   28 Re: Deep snow
  15  "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.B   56 Re: Dieseling
  16  kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Ellio   21 Re: Dieseling
  17  Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.te   31 Re: Rivets?
  18  dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org          34 Re[2]: Dieseling
  19  Lodelane <Lodelane@aol.com>         25 Re: FFR wiring->DataBase/ stop 
fueling around
  20  trowe@cdr.wisc.edu                  28 Re: Deep snow
  21  "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pi   14 Dieseling
  22  john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns   24 Re: Snow....This deep!
  23  "Duchanin&Greene"<P1301@mail.aai.    8 Wanted: Series IIa 2.25 Petrol 
Cylinder Head
  24  Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@geneti   34 Re: Deep snow
  25  Solihull <Solihull@aol.com>         22 Re:  Re: title companies...
  26  "Duchanin&Greene"<P1301@mail.aai.    6 [not specified]
  27  "Duchanin&Greene"<P1301@mail.aai.    7 Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily 
Digest
  28  David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>   35 Re: Deep snow
  29  paul <paarch@jps.net>               51 Mac Laptop/possible gps questions 
(Bill C, this is rover
 + +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  + upcoming events +
 +                                                                         +
 + ANARC North American International            Association of            +
 + Land Rover 50th Anniversary Celebration       North American            +
 +                                               Rover Clubs               +
 + July 31, August 1 & 2, 1998                   ANARC and Event info      +
 + Greek Peak, Cortland, NY                      www.rover-clubs.org       +
 +                                                                         +
 + The First North American International RTV Trials, & other events       +
 +                                                                         +
 + +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +  +

------------------------------

From: "T.D.I.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Snow
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 12:48:29 -0000

Bjornung writes:
All I intended to say was , CHECK THE CONDITIONS  OF THE SNOW!!! (after
having learned from experience!  :)  )

I also check drifts for sheep/small cars/ramblers etc before ploughing
through!

My most chastening experience was some years ago when I took a girl out for
a drive in the Lancs Pennines in the old Series III. At the time, the
starter motor was knackered and I was too skint to replace it, so I had to
hand crank the engine.
Driving rather exuberantly, I managed to poke the nose of the LR into a snow
wall that had built up along the sides of the lane. Unfortunately, the
engine stalled, and the snow bank collapsed, burying the front of the LR so
that we couldn't open the doors or see out of the front. After removing the
dog guard, I managed to get out of the back door, and spent two hours, in
the gathering gloom and falling snow, digging out the front so that I could
get the hand crank in to start the engine.
I got a second hand starter shortly afterwards, although I never managed to
persuade Sam to go for a drive in the snow again.

Tom Stevenson
SNL Mussel Project
University Marine Biological Station, Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel: 01475 530581  Fax: 01475 530601  Email: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
Web page: http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine/

------------------------------

From: WRaymoure <WRaymoure@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 08:05:20 EST
Subject: Re: moving big stuff...

In a message dated 98-03-12 23:38:12 EST, you write:

<< So those of you who have been fortunate to receive a large or heavy rover
 component like a new frame - how did you handle it?   Getting it on/off the
 truck.  Into the garage, etc.   
 
 Eat a lot of Wheaties?  Work out?   Get a bunch of friends over, hump it,
 then give em beer?  Fabricate a wheely thing?
 
 Thanks
 
 John >>
 A group of us ordered a bunch of parts (including a few frames) from England
a few years ago.  They were packed in a huge custom wood crate.  It took 5-6
of us to get it open (they went wild with a nail gun) and remove the parts and
frames.  Beer was involved, as I recall.  You can't lift one by yourself -
just get some help from your friends.

Bill

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 08:26:23 -0500
Subject: Re: moving big stuff...

Re: Moving frames:

Yes, it nominally requires two to do it - but two folks can manage one
fairly easily.

If you don't have one other to help, though. lashing a two-wheel dolly to
the rear crossmember allows it to be wheeled like a (very heavy)
wheelbarrow if need be.

My own personal favorite for moving heavy bits is a combination of two
pieces of gear - the 4-wheel furniture dolly and the come-along (or
Tirfor). Using a crowbar or the like, block up the big bit till you can get
the dolly(ies) under it, then remove the blocks, seating the item on the
dolly.

After this, use the crowbar to move it, or the Come-Along hitched to a
solid object (use a tree strop if needed!).

I've moved all sorts of heavy machine-tool bits this way, either with
furniture-movers dollies or lengths of pipe as rollers.

                    ajr/Mr. C

------------------------------

From: Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca
Subject: LRNA please note:I want a TDI
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 08:25:00 -0500

The market is changing?
It's becoming all right to smoke!!
 
Navistar Is Ford's Choice of Supplier As Auto Makers Look to Diesel
Engines
March 13, 1998 2:35 AM EST
Wall Street Journal, March 06, 1998
Summary of key facts:
Navistar International Corp has been tapped by Ford Motor Co as a future
long-term supplier of diesel engines for Ford's large vehicles,
including pickups and sports-utility vehicles. A final agreement is
expected within 30 d.
The move is regarded as a sign that US automakers are considering the
use of diesel engines as a way of increasing the fuel efficiency of
large sports utility vehicles. Diesel engines are still mainly used in
heavy trucks and construction equipment.
General Motors Corp's attempt to introduce diesel cars in the 1970s and
1980s was unsuccessful, because American consumers did not like them.
However, new advances in diesel engine technology, inlcuding
sophisticated electronic controls, have made diesel engines a more
acceptable alternative for use in light vehicles, according to
automakers and engine suppliers. Diesel engines have always been more
fuel-efficient than gasoline engines, because diesel fuel contains more
energy and diesel engines operate at higher compression ratios.
According to Tim Leuliette, vice chairman of Detroit Diesel, the market
for small diesels for use in cars and trucks will grow 15%/yr over the
next several years, vs 3%/yr growth for the diesel engine industry
overall. Detroit Diesel expects its sales to double over the next 5 yrs,
vs $2.2 bil/yr currently. Detroit Diesel is preparing to increase
production of small 2.5-4.2-L diesel engines for cars and light
trucks.Navistar now sells a V-8 diesel engine for use in Ford's F-Series
pickup truck and Econoline Van. Under the proposed agreement with Ford,
it would build smaller V-6 engines. It is developing a new engine model
to replace the one that it currently supplies to Ford. Navistar will
begin production of the new engines in 2003. It has increased production
of its V-8 diesel engine from about 800 units in 1997 to almost 1,000
units.

------------------------------

From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Subject: Re: Fueling around
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 16:01:11 GMT

At work we had a problem that could have been solved with MEK and
saved us some money. We decided it was just too nasty to use even for
the financial savings.

On Mon, 09 Mar 1998 12:32:12 -0500, you wrote:

>Probably the best solvent you could use is methyl ethyl ketone, nasty
>stuff, really, but it will disolve most fuel gunge rather handily. 

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 12:09:42 -0500 (EST)
From: nickf@co.wayne.in.us (Nick Fankhauser)
Subject: Re: Dieseling

The dieseling is telling you something- like a diesel, it is not only
compression, but a latent heat source that is causing ignition. Typically,
an engine that is dieseling has significant carbon build-up in the top of
the cylinder. The carbon is "storing" the heat from the last ignition. In a
clean engine, the metal conducts heat away too quickly for this to happen,
but the carbon doesn't have a good thermal connection to the heat-sink of
the engine. (The same situation can also cause "pinging".)

Try pulling your spark plugs- I'd guess that one or more is badly fouled. If
you lean out the fuel mixture, and put a little carbon-cleaning fuel
additive in, it should go back to normal.

The other posibility is less likely, but more worrisome- If your *whole
engine* is really hot, dieseling can happen without out carbon build-up.
Either situation should be attended to, but the rich fuel mixture won't hurt
your engine as fast.

-NickF

___________________________________________________________________
Nick Fankhauser      | http://www.co.wayne.in.us/wayneco
nickf@co.wayne.in.us | http://www.infocom.com/~nickf

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 13:03:57 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: Deep snow

Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com (Todd Wilson) wrote:
month. I was just 
     
>    How deep can a 109 with a rear ARB and chains get/go and get out?

Adrian Redmond had a good reply...in powder snow, you can punch through
surprisingly deep stuff.  I've blasted through 200' of 3-5' drifts downhill
with a good head of steam and a 30 mph west wind to sweep it all away.
however, in wet snow, any deeper than the axle will stop you sooner or
later.  The stuff gets packed up under everything and will eventually lift
you off the ground.  (Unfortunately, been there, done that, got the anorak
- many times)  Keep the high lift handy for un-stucks.  We well an truly
stuck, it's somethimes easier to slew the vehicle to the side and start
again.... 

Another deep snow phenomena is that snow will pack up into the engine bay
and short everything out.  Nothing like popping the bonnet to dry out the
distributor only to find the engine *completely hidden*  #:-0  Especially
scarry at dusk, far from home....

With ARB's and chains you'll be able to get as far or farther than anyone
else....  Good luck.

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 13:05:19 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: Deep snow

On Fri, 13 Mar 1998, A. P. "Sandy" Grice wrote:

The snow situation that got me completly and utterly stuck was a change
in the consistancy of the snow.  I was on top of pretty dense stuff, with
a pretty strong crust.  I had to swerve to avoid an unexpected cow, and
went onto deep powder, which would not support the truck's weight.  So we
sank, upto about the middle of the windows.  This was not in a Land-Rover,
but a VW PickUp.  If it hadn't been for the cow...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 12:18:25 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Deep snow

At 01:05 PM 3/13/98 -0500, you wrote:
>On Fri, 13 Mar 1998, A. P. "Sandy" Grice wrote:
>The snow situation that got me completly and utterly stuck was a change
>in the consistancy of the snow. 

---
 For me it was the depth changing from 8" to just over my 16" wheel . . .
the spare on the bonnet!  Farmer neighbor pulled me out with his tractor
having attached a chain to that "handy tow bar" that goes from wheel to
wheel.  ouch.

Peter
'60 109SW
'64 88
'70 88 (in pieces)
'73 88 (driver)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 13:39:53 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: Dieseling

In response to Olafur Axelson, David Scheidt <david@infocom.com> wrote:

>Dieseling is also called run on, which is exactly what it is.  The engine
>continues running after the ignition has been shut off.  It is called
>dieseling because your petrol motor is now imitating a diesel, with
>ignition caued be compression rather than spark.

Not quite.  Usually the ignition source is carbon build-up on the cylinder
head which remains hot and provides the spark for ignition.  Otherwise
*all* engines would diesel, rather than just the ones with crudded-up
heads.  If a tune-up (new plugs, adjusting the timing) doesn't help, it is
time to de-coke the heads.  Those with confidence/skill/luck can attemp the
water/mist method.

The Zenith 36IVE carb had this troublesome fuel cut-off solenoid to help
prevent run-on.  It was dropped for the 36IV model.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 13:39:56 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: Big stuff

John Hong <jhong@best.com> wrote:

>So those of you who have been fortunate to receive a large or heavy rover
>component like a new frame - how did you handle it?   Getting it on/off the
>truck.  Into the garage, etc.   

>Eat a lot of Wheaties?  Work out?   Get a bunch of friends over, hump it,
>then give em beer?  Fabricate a wheely thing?

Actually, a frame isn't all that heavy.  Remember, it's the box section
that makes it strong, not the thickness of the metal.  I've helped move a
frame and two strong people or three wusses can do it, especially 'cause
you can stand *inside* what you're lifting.  *Heave....!*

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Mar 98 18:32:51 GMT
From: linux <linux@ocelot.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: This "Unusual" Fuel Pump

Wade said:

| I just went down to the garage again,(staying later while I let a
| painted door panel dry); Al, the bowl is definitely part of a cast 
| looking piece that mounts properly on the top and there's brass screws
| holds this cast piece to the body, everything clean. The Paddock's
| catalogue beside me here says 16.90 for a pump, 3.95 for a repair
| kit. Guess you're right David, seems that's the best & cheapest way to 
| go... it would also be a truer restoration, too.

Take care, you have to know what bits you need and which are in
the rebuild kit. I've been trying to rebuild one just now, and
it's less satisfying than most landrover-part rebuilds. If you only
want to replace the diaphram, then any rebuild kit probably has what
you want. Not all have the oil seal and various springs and gauze
filter. The other problem is that the pump designs got progressively
less rebuildable. The one I have holds most bits in/on by distorting
adjacent areas of metal (staking). I made a right mess of getting
the valves out and have not worked out how to extract the main pivot
for the pumping cam (I'm scared of using brute force without understanding
what holds it). Later ones still don't even pretend to be rebuildable.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 19:55:08 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Deep snow

Maybe I should have expressed my answer simpler - here's a try ...

A Land Rover can get through ANYTHING, and long as all four wheels are
gripping solid ground.

The trouble with snow is it has a habit of "thinking" its a hydraulic
jack.

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 19:57:42 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Deep snow

I tried the tractor method once, a metre of snow in front of me, a chain
onto the bumper hook, and WHIZZZZZ......! Several hundred h.p of Case
International racing across a snowy field in very low ratio, with a LR
bumper attached to a chain.

Tractors tug, they don't pull!

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: Re: Dieseling
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 11:44:07 -0800

Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 22:46:27 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: Dieseling

On Wed, 12 Mar 1997, Olafur Agust Axelsson wrote:

> >I think I once saw something about a thing called *dieseling* here on
the
 list - something to occur in petrol engines - after the ignition has
been turned of - I think my beloved one is suffering from it!! - Can
anyone
explain it to me? - Is it something to worry about?

>Dieseling is also called run on, which is exactly what it is.  The
engine
continues running after the ignition has been shut off.  It is called
dieseling because your petrol motor is now imitating a diesel, with
ignition caued be compression rather than spark.  It generally not a
good
thing, but if it isn't excessive, you needn't worry about it. 

Dieseling is EXTREMELY hard on an engine, particularly the timing chain,
timing gears and chain tensioner, and gear-driven oil pump.  If your
Land Rover is dieseling, even just a little  (unless, of course, it IS a
diesel :-) ) you should take immediate steps to rectify it.  It just
takes one violent jolt to stretch or snap a timing chain, or bust a
tooth on a timing gear or the oil pump drive.  When I replaced the
emissions carburetor and distributor on my Series III-88 with standard
units not long after buying the vehicle new in 1973, the engine would
occasionally diesel a couple of times when I switched off the ignition.
After talking to several good mechanics and learning how destructive
dieseling can be,  I installed the idle-port cutoff solenoid from the
original Zenith on the new Zenith and wired it to a switch on the dash.
For almost 25 years I have shut off my Land Rover by flipping the
solenoid switch on the dash which shuts off the idle fuel.  The engine
dies almost as fast as it does when switching off the ignition, but it
has never dieseled once in all those years as with no fuel going to the
cylinders, it can't.  Of course I still have to remember to turn off the
ignition switch after the engine stops  or  I run the risk of burning
the points.  And I have to remember to flip the idle solenoid switch
back on before starting the engine, but that soon became second nature.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 14:51:23 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Dieseling

>Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 22:46:27 -0500 (EST)
>From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
>Subject: Re: Dieseling
>On Wed, 12 Mar 1997, Olafur Agust Axelsson wrote:
>> >I think I once saw something about a thing called *dieseling* here on
>the

  [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
>good
>thing, but if it isn't excessive, you needn't worry about it. 
I learned something today, I was always under the impression that one of the
reasons that petrol engines diesel was because of incorrect timing.

Keith Elliott
1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 21:20:46 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Rivets?

I seem to remember that there is some command which will get the Major
to list the subscribers to a specific list - does anyone remember how
this works

something like -

who dk-lro

or something like that?

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 98 15:32:19 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Dieseling

>I learned something today, I was always under the impression that one of the 
>reasons that petrol engines diesel was because of incorrect timing.

ahhh...deiseling. 
A subject dear to my heart. My SIII 2.25 petrol does it all the time. I've 
decoked the head, checked for potential hot spots, such as carbon or a sharp 
edge on top of the pistons or in the combustion chamber.
I recently re-set the timing and leaned out the idle mixture and slowed down 
the idle speed. There are lots of things that can cause deiseling. Too high 
compression, retarded ignition, too high idle speed, rich mixture, to name a 
few. Some engines will just do this. You can do like Marin and fit a cut-off 
solenoid, or you can track down the problem. Some times the problem is too 
embedded i.e. in the combustion chamber to do anything about it without tkaing 
apart your motor. After maknig the above changes to my tuning, it almost never 
does it. I run 93 octane to help with this also. But it did do it a little 
yesterday. If all else fails, and your carb doesn't have the shut off valve 
then you can just shut it off in gear and let the clutch out GENTLY. Deiseling 
CAn be really bad, I've seen Rovers run backwards with blue/black exhaust 
coming out the oil bath. Changing direction that fast is NOT good, even for 
robust motors like ours. A friend of mine got a WEBER carb from Corn Flakes and 
its a 34 IC_ not ICH but maybe ICE? Same basic design and casting with a few 
different bits, choke cable linkage is different, but it has a shut-off 
solenoid where the idle jet is on mine. (Top of the float bowl, big brass screw 
pointing toward valve cover). I bet you could get one from the place that sells 
all the Weber bits, whazzit pErformance Automotive or sumthin like dat?
DOn't think there's one for the solex.
later
DaveB 

------------------------------

From: Lodelane <Lodelane@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 15:59:14 EST
Subject: Re: FFR wiring->DataBase/ stop fueling around

Ok folks.  The wait is over.  The Series III FFR wiring schematics and keys
have been scanned into .gif format and forwarded to the individuals who
indicated they would try to add them to their web sites.

Am still trying to get the Rover 8 & 9 manual (Series II/IIA) to scan.  Will
post the Webmasters and the list when its ready (if it will scan).

Trying to work a deal where the whole Air Pub 5049B (Series III FFR) will be
scanned and available at a later date.  If the deal goes thru, will also let
you know.

For right now, however, lets let the Webmasters do their magic.  If we get
notified in the next week or so that they cannot get them to load/whatever,
then I will entertain individual requests to forward the files.

Thanks,

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 16:13:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Deep snow

>>    How deep can a 109 with a rear ARB and chains get/go and get out?

I've never tested my 109, but in '76 or so, I forget the exact year, we
woke up to 3' of snow in NW Virginia. My dad had to be at the airport at
7am, and we had a 1 1/2 mile unplowed drive down to the paved road. My '62
88 wasn't road legal so I towed our Dodge Aspen out so he could drive it to
the airport. I had all four tires chained. It was fairly slow going, but we
made it. Part of the reason it was so slow was I had no defroster so had to
keep scraping the inside, plus keep and eye on my dad in the aspen so I'd
know if it came unhooked and navigate the curvy road. Only one mishap. The
Aspen came unhooked just as I came to a curve and the Land Rover jumped
forward, went in a ditch, hit a tree and bent the left end of the bumper
into the tire. Fortunately I had a winch so it didn't take me long to
straighten it and continue on with the Aspen in tow.

Given that experience, I'd saw four chians and diff locks would allow you
to get through pretty deep stuff. But it also depends on how heavy a snow
it is. Eventually you'll just be using the Rover as a plow, but not pushing
the snow anywhere except over the front. This happened to me in VT in the
winter of '88 I think it was. Up hill to my house the raod had snow over
the bumper. Even with that amount, by time I reached my house I only had
about 2" of my windshield clear at the top.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 18:37:33 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Dieseling

Not an accurate name, since it is not compression ignition which causes the
problem. 
This is caused by the presence of a heat source in the cylinder which
ignites the fuel vapour and keeps the engine running when the ignition in
turned off. Typically associated with poor igntion timing,low grade fuel,
hot valves, glowing crud deposits etc. Check the ignition timing, stop
putting kerosene in the gas, check the plugs etc
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 19:58:28 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Snow....This deep!

Bjørnung Jensen wrote:
> Well, there seems to be a lot of tales about driving through snow
> <.................> this deep.
> All I can say is that living at the west coast of Norway, I have learnt that
> there is <..................> that many TYPES of snow. I have driven ON 3
> meters (about 9-10 feet) of snow without any problems, and I have been
> stopped by 15 cm (less than 6 inches) in my Range Rover. The worst you can
> do is not to inspect the condition of the snow first. Imagine driving
  [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
> Bjørnung Jensen
> Norway
Listen to the gentleman from Norway, He speaks the truth. Some times the
only way to procede is very slowly so the snow packs under the tires and
some times you have to go like hell but you should try slow first as you
will get into less trouble if you are wrong. if you have large tires be
aware that deep snow can send you in a completely unplaned direction
while you struggle futilely to get things under control.BTDT (been there
done that)
   John and muddy

------------------------------

From: "Duchanin&Greene"<P1301@mail.aai.arco.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 14:57:01 -1000
Subject: Wanted: Series IIa 2.25 Petrol Cylinder Head

I am looking for a IIa 2.25 cyl head. Please call (907) 659-5239, respond
to listin or email <duchanin@girdwood.net>

------------------------------

Date:  Sat, 14 Mar 1998 01:12:53 +0100
From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Subject: Re: Deep snow

All you guys who apparently drives in deep snow and use your Landrover in
the winter. Is there a good way to increase the heatingcapacity in a
Landrover? Someone told me it is possible to put an extra heater in series
(or parallell) with the old one. Also the same person knew about others who
had replaced the termostate in order to run the engine a little bit warmer
and by doing that also increased the heating capacity. How warm can a
Landrover 2.25 l diesel run before it is bad for the engine? I am very soon
going to by myself a S3 diesel and I live in Sweden and plan to use my
Landrover all yaer around so I would like to keep warm during Swedish
winter. Usually I also have my dogs with me in the back. It would be nice
if they could feel warm as well.

/Peter

_____________________________________________________

Peter Thoren
Work:  Department of Genetics
       Uppsala University
       Box 7003; S-750 07 Uppsala
       Phone: +46 18 67 12 69
       Fax:   +46 18 67 27 05
       e-mail peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

Home:  Långmyrtorp
       740 20 Vänge
       Phone/fax: +46 18 39 20 56
       e-mail: same as above
______________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: Solihull <Solihull@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 19:19:34 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: title companies...

South Carolina has a similar law, you can get a builder's title after an
inspection by a state trooper. You get a new VIN starts with SCHD (South
Carolina Highway Department) I did this with a NSU 1200C I found in a
junkyard, back in '76
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say:
Land Rovers for Agriculture!
Land Rovers for Industry!
Land Rovers for Recreation!
Land Rovers forever!! D.V.

------------------------------

From: "Duchanin&Greene"<P1301@mail.aai.arco.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 14:31:45 -1000

unsubscribe lro-digest

------------------------------

From: "Duchanin&Greene"<P1301@mail.aai.arco.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 14:29:58 -1000
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

unsubscribe lro-digest

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 20:43:04 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: Deep snow

On Sat, 14 Mar 1998, Peter Thoren wrote:

> All you guys who apparently drives in deep snow and use your Landrover in
> the winter. Is there a good way to increase the heatingcapacity in a
> Landrover? Someone told me it is possible to put an extra heater in series
> (or parallell) with the old one. Also the same person knew about others who

What I have done is put an auxillary heater in the passenger footwell.
It is a cube about 9" a side, and happens -- pure chance -- to have pipes
that are spaced the same distance apart as blanking pieces for the
non-existant brake and clutch pedals.  The heater is intended as an
auxillary heater in a full-size van, and has a claimed ouput of 20,000
BTU, and a 300 ft^3/min fan.  It does a wonderful job of heating the
truck; it has melted ice of hte back window at 5F.  

The installation is, well, to be charitable, not estheticly pleasing.  I
removed the blanking pieces for the passanger brake and clutch pedals, cut
holes in them to pass heater host through, and welded brackets to them. 
The whole thing took an afternoon, and will come out when the weather gets
warm. 

> had replaced the termostate in order to run the engine a little bit warmer
> and by doing that also increased the heating capacity. How warm can a
> Landrover 2.25 l diesel run before it is bad for the engine? I am very soon

Rover sells an 88C (about 190F) thermostat for the petrol engine; I can't
find any mention of a diesel spec thermostat, so I assume they can use
that as well.  A hotter 'stat makes a pretty big difference in heater
output.
David

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 19:01:22 -0800 (PST)
From: paul <paarch@jps.net>
Subject: Mac Laptop/possible gps questions (Bill C, this is rover

(Sorry for double posts to mendo-recce, RRO, LRO)

Help!!!
I have a few questions for you guys.

I just picked up a powerbook 180c and 1.5 duo 230's plus a docking
stationfor a song, from the employee auction at work(yes I am finally
working again!!Through a temp, but hopefully perm soon!!!)
I have been planning on picking up a gps soon(most likely the tripmate at
first) to hook up to a lap-top. I had planned on using the 483-33 unit I
picked up last year, but I prefer macs. Now I can give that to my father.
how do you hook up an external cd to these? I have a panasonic cd-rom drive
with a scsi pcmcia card interface, but the macs don't have a pcmcia card
slot. is there an adapter to the multi-pin rectangular connector on the back
that the external disc drive hooks up to? Is it scsi? 
Does anyone have a manual for either unit that I could copy?
What about 12 volt adaptors?
how can I tell what speed the internal modem is?
I threw away all my old mac-user issues that tell all about these units, so
I need to ask questions.
how much ram is needed to run GPS software anyway? Both units have 13 meg if
I remember(I left them at work over the week-end cause they won't fit on the
bike, so I can't play yet :-(  )
which one should I use for a GPS system. The duo 230 is greyscale vs color,
but I would guess it might have a more durable display(yes/no?)The duo has a
small 100 meg drive, but that can be changed. I am leaning towards making
the duo a GPS drone and actually using the color unit, but am open to
suggestions.
Also gps software suggestions, I remember the discussion last year, but
didn't save anything caust I didn't have a mac laptop yet.

And lastly how should I mount it in the beast so as to do as little
vibration damage as possible?

PLEASE! Answer me direct! so the others not interested don't have to read
all the following answers etc... I do not want to anger anyone!

well that is probably enough for now.
Thanks 
Paul
Paul Archibald
paarch@jps.net
'58 88" rhd "Surely" (Almost running again;-))
'92 Ducati 750ss "Rubber Ducky"
hm. (510)353-1320
wk. (510)353-1320 P A Design

------------------------------

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 11:19:56 -0400
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Subject: Re: Dieseling

I hate to say it, but one quick and effective fix for Dieseling is to use
higher octane gas(although this treats the symptoms without curing the
problem). In my case, the engine started to diesel after I rebuilt it and
decked the head to 8.5 to 1 compression. The problem was made worse by the
fact that I installed my winter(195deg) thermostat at the same time.
Swtching to 89 octane solved the problem. One other thing - Avoid shutting
down the engine immediately after it has been working hard - there will be
local hot spots. let it cool down by idling it for a minute or so. I live
at the top of a very steep hill, so this helps a lot. Good luck.

Braman
1966 IIA 88 petrol(seldom diesel now)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 14:27:56 -0500
From: tabercro@acadia.net (Tom Abercrombie)
Subject: series IIA clutch problems

i'm having some problems with the clutch on my 64 IIA.  when i bought the
truck about a month ago, the clutch didn't work at all. i freed up the
pedal and replaced both the slave and the master cylinders.  about three
days ago i finally got the system to work well enough that i could drive
the truck for the first time.  here's the problem:

after pushing down the pedal probably 25 times and having everything work
as it should, i will get less and less pedal travel until the slave
cylinder pushrod won't return and i can't go anywhere, as if i were holding
the pedal down.  if i open the bleeder valve there is considerable pressure
built up and when this is relieved, the pushrod will return.  this has
happened with both of the slave cylinders that i have tried.  i'm pretty
sure that the system is sufficiently bled.  where is the pressure building
up?  has anyone had a similar situation?

help

thanks

tom abercrombie

belfast, maine

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 14:34:45 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: series IIA clutch problems

On Sat, 14 Mar 1998, Tom Abercrombie wrote:

> built up and when this is relieved, the pushrod will return.  this has
> happened with both of the slave cylinders that i have tried.  i'm pretty
> sure that the system is sufficiently bled.  where is the pressure building
> up?  has anyone had a similar situation?

Have you replaced the flex line?  They go bad and can trap pressure.

> help
> thanks
> tom abercrombie
> belfast, maine

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> tom abercrombie
> belfast, maine

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 13:02:45 -0800
From: John Hong <jhong@best.com>
Subject: re:LRNA please note:I want a TDI

Tdi! Tdi! Tdi!

Trevor_Easton quotes:
>The market is changing?
>It's becoming all right to smoke!!
>Navistar Is Ford's Choice of Supplier As Auto Makers Look to Diesel Engines
>The move is regarded as a sign that US automakers are considering the
>use of diesel engines as a way of increasing the fuel efficiency of
>large sports utility vehicles. Diesel engines are still mainly used in
>heavy trucks and construction equipment.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>However, new advances in diesel engine technology, including
>sophisticated electronic controls,

SRRRRREEEEECH...hunh?  sophisticated electronic controls???   BOO HISS
COMPUTERS...

no more wires   no more wires  no more wires...

Di! Di! Di!

John "yeah yeah, injector regulation controls would apply for both Tdi and
di" Hong

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 13:34:08 -0800
From: John Hong <jhong@best.com>
Subject: unloading big stuff...

Thanks for all the experiences Folks.

In a few months I expect to be unloading a "lifetime" supply of stuff (2
bodies, 3 frames, engines, etc)    I'll probably be unloading it solo.  Not
a problem but it will be really hot   (S. Nevada)   I'll have a ramp from
the 50ish inch high trailer floor to the ground and will probably rig up
some wheel/dolly things and slip them under the low parts with Mr Highlift.
  These may very well end up being rolling frames - just jack up - put on
tires and roll - remove tires/repeat.
 I'll take appropriate care (using tensioned retaining/lowering cable) when
pushing them out the trailer and down the ramp.

Anybody have advice about securing/aligning the front axle - aka how do you
keep the 2 front wheels pointing straight or do you just not bother and
lead with the rear end?

John

------------------------------

From: Solihull <Solihull@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 17:14:21 EST
Subject: Re:  LRNA please note:I want a TDI

GM's diesel from the 80s was a market flop because it was a sorry engine.
Ditto VW's oil burning version of the four five or six cyl OHC that they
inherited from NSUs K70.  Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
82 Isuzu I-Mark Diesel (think 'chevette with decent build quality control)
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say:
Land Rovers for Agriculture!
Land Rovers for Industry!
Land Rovers for Recreation!
Land Rovers forever!! D.V.

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 17:19:02 -0500
Subject: Re: series IIA clutch problems

Simple - the master is either misadjusted (check the free play on the
pushrod - should be about 1/16" or so), or the new master is defective and
not releasing to ambient pressure when disengaged.

Either way it's a simple fix - adjust the pushrod (follow the manual spec),
or return the damn master and yell at the guys who sold it to you.....8*)

               aj"Been here - done both!"r

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 16:19:14 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: series IIA clutch problems

Tom Abercrombie wrote:

> i'm having some problems with the clutch on my 64 IIA.  (snip)  i will get
> less and less pedal travel until the slave cylinder pushrod won't return
> (snip) there is considerable pressure built up

I'll bet you've got a master cylinder problem.  Possibly an internal flaw with
the portsbut  more likely a problem in your pedal adjustment.  Double check the

pedal adjustment to make sure the pedal/rod is allowed to return completely,
otherwise
you'll be in effect pumping up the hydraulics (similar to pumping up squishy
brakes).

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 16:20:54 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: LRNA please note:I want a TDI

John Hong wrote:

> Tdi! Tdi! Tdi!

snip

> SRRRRREEEEECH...hunh?  sophisticated electronic controls???   BOO HISS
> COMPUTERS...

So.. exactly which Tdi are you praising? :)  The 300 comes in several
versions2 of which have ECMs not too different in complexity from the V-8 EFI
engines.

200TDi !... 200Tdi !  :)

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 16:22:40 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: unloading big stuff...

John Hong wrote:

> Anybody have advice about securing/aligning the front axle - aka how do you
> keep the 2 front wheels pointing straight or do you just not bother and
> lead with the rear end?

I take it there will be no steering box on your chassis??

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: LRNA please note:I want a TDI
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 21:05:39 -0300

On Fri, 13 Mar 1998, Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca wrote:
>The market is changing?
>It's becoming all right to smoke!!

It can still be an embarrassment. The current 300 Tdi gives a belch of black 
smoke on 
start up, which can be a really unfriendly gesture to anyone standing near the 
rear 
left of the  thing. I'd love to know how to reduce that. 

After that there is nothing visible from the exhaust and the engine is an 
absolute 
joy. Economical, lots of go, and the timing belt change is much easier than it 
was in 
the 200 predecessor (as described in the April LROI). 

I hope you all get the Tdi. 

Allan

300 Tdi  D90 "el galeon"  

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 20:12:00 -0500
From: masmith <masmith@barint.on.ca>
Subject: FOR SALE {many parts}

Hi everyone well i guess its time to sell everything {sadily}.
   Here is a list of things i have for sale.
   
   1. landrover 109 frame complete over haul new rear cross
member,reinforced on bottom sides redone.new outriggers two inch lift.
frame in very good shape 
   asking $1500.00

   2.chevy 6 cylinder conversion comlpete less clutch:
    includes:230 cubic inc engine rebuilt new never started,comes with
carb,starter,engine mounts everything to bolt in to a rover.
asking $1500.00

  3.defender conversion kit includes hood and grill,fits series 3
in good shape needs little work.
  asking  $500.00

  4. 6 cylinder bulkhead completely redone:new door posts,new dropin floors
ready to go,bulk head is complete with new wiring harness ,mostparts have
been redone.

  

  please contact tony smith at masmith@barint.on.ca  or call me for more
info at 705-424-1953 if im not home leave a msg.

------------------------------

From: Gregspitz <Gregspitz@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 21:57:43 EST
Subject: Batavia Defender 90

are  the other guys with D90's in the Batavia,Geneva Illinois area on this
list??  If you are please email me and we can meet....with Chgo Land Rover
Club etc.
GS

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258 <CIrvin1258@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 1998 22:31:17 EST
Subject: Re: series IIA clutch problems

Another possibility:

Perhaps, the master cylinder you bought, is actually a TR-3 brake master! They
have a non-return valve in 'em. (TR-3's use the same master for both brake,
and clutch - the non-return valve, and a part number, being the only real
differences between the two.

Charles

------------------------------

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