[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Peter Thoren [Peter.Thor | 27 | RE: Rivets? |
2 | "Ron Franklin" [oldhaven | 16 | SIII bulkhead |
3 | Lodelane [Lodelane@aol.c | 18 | Re: FFR wiring->DataBase/ stop fueling around |
4 | "K. John Wood" [jwrover@ | 17 | Re: winches |
5 | Bill Marcy [wpmarcy@nyca | 11 | Re: wanted: set of alloy rims for RR (would consider Disco or |
6 | "R. Wade Hughes" [hughes | 35 | This "Unusual" Fuel Pump |
7 | Alan_Richer@motorcity2.l | 11 | Re: This "Unusual" Fuel Pump |
8 | David Scheidt [david@inf | 22 | Re: This "Unusual" Fuel Pump |
9 | "Richard Marsden"[rmarsd | 40 | Re: This "Unusual" Fuel Pump |
10 | "R. Wade Hughes" [hughes | 27 | Re: This "Unusual" Fuel Pump |
11 | Dan & Sally Cantwell [dc | 33 | Re: Brake pipe routing-air in brake system |
12 | Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml | 29 | RE: Odd electrical connectors on my new wiring harness. |
13 | "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" | 27 | Presentations |
14 | David Scheidt [david@inf | 16 | Re: Presentations |
15 | DOC2BE99 [DOC2BE99@aol.c | 23 | Muscle car/ Rover swap |
16 | Todd_Wilson@ccmail.colum | 19 | Snow....How Deep? |
17 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 43 | Re: Snow....This deep! |
18 | Thomas Spoto [tspoto@az. | 33 | Re: Snow....This deep! |
19 | mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marc | 21 | Re: Snow....This deep! |
20 | Solihull [Solihull@aol.c | 223 | Re: Bearing Part numbers |
21 | Solihull [Solihull@aol.c | 223 | Re: Bearing Part numbers |
22 | "Chris Velardi" [tchris@ | 30 | test |
23 | Mark 3219 [Mark3219@aol. | 9 | Calander based index for 98 ? |
24 | "Olafur Agust Axelsson" | 16 | Dieseling |
25 | dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.o | 23 | Re[2]: Snow....This deep! |
26 | David Scheidt [david@inf | 24 | Re: Dieseling |
27 | John Hong [jhong@best.co | 17 | moving big stuff... |
28 | Luc Rokegem [bs174957@sk | 27 | Fitting new shock-absorbers |
29 | Brian Cramer [defender@u | 31 | Re: moving big stuff... |
30 | John Hong [jhong@best.co | 13 | title companies... |
31 | "drew squires" [drewteri | 17 | Re: title companies... |
32 | "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnu | 29 | Re: Snow....This deep! |
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 13:02:10 +0100 From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se> Subject: RE: Rivets? >I think it is a Swedish company, and I am pretty sure they have a store in >Gothenburg. I recall having seen these rivets in that catalog. This company, Tibnor, is also in Uppsala, Sweden. Phone +46 18 14 92 00 Fax +46 18 15 39 07 _____________________________________________________ Peter Thoren Work: Department of Genetics Uppsala University Box 7003; S-750 07 Uppsala Phone: +46 18 67 12 69 Fax: +46 18 67 27 05 e-mail peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se Home: Långmyrtorp 740 20 Vänge Phone/fax: +46 18 39 20 56 e-mail: same as above ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com> Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 07:30:35 -0500 Subject: SIII bulkhead I am looking for a series 3 bulkhead for the parts attached, i.e. dash, guages, switches, wipers and motor, etc., so the metal can be in unrestorable condition if the rest is in good shape. Probably an unlikely combination, but if anyone has one sitting around in Maine or Northern New England at a reasonable price, please drop me a msg. Also looking for a 109 SW rear fuel tank, hopefully set up for negative earth diesel. Ron Franklin Bowdoin, Maine, USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Lodelane <Lodelane@aol.com> Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 09:38:05 EST Subject: Re: FFR wiring->DataBase/ stop fueling around To the List: I am working on scanning the diagrams for the SIII FFRs from Pete Kurzman's book. Also may have access to the SII/IIA FFR manual too. I am scanner stupid, but one of the folks here at work is willing to give it a shot. Should have something by next week. Have saved the posts from those willing to add to their sites, and will send the html or whatever to them direct. If the files will work on their sites, I will leave it up to them to notify the rest of the lists of availability. Larry Smith Chester, VA ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com> Subject: Re: winches Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 21:17:49 -0700 David, Forget standard practice...Think outside the box as they say... Give Frank Jakos a call at 719-473-6288 (Concourse Cars) he has designed a mounting plate for the front of Series vehicles that is "Just Grand" for mounting any winch any wich way!! Good Luck John ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 09:44:12 -0500 From: Bill Marcy <wpmarcy@nycap.rr.com> Subject: Re: wanted: set of alloy rims for RR (would consider Disco or In the latest copy of Rover Log from British Atlantic they have a set of "slightly scratched" new ones for sale. Call and talk to Eric, he can set you up. Bill ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 18:06:38 +0200 (EET) From: "R. Wade Hughes" <hughes@stybba.ntc.nokia.com> Subject: This "Unusual" Fuel Pump -- Excuse the list posting but I've tried to to mail Dave Bobeck direct, but the messages keep bouncing back...Maybe someone else can help. I looked at the fuel pump with the flashlight, there is some small writing under the outlet hose, but I can't make it out. As the car's sitting in the company garage, I can't risk a fire by removing the hoses. We're having clear but cold weather here, but I'll bring the truck home on the weekend and then see if I can find some id on the pump so I could get a rebuild kit if possible. Anyways this thing is mounted nicely to the block, just as if it was stock eqmt., and yes, there's even a priming lever underneath. The clear bowl sits on top of the pump unit, a bit raised. I could see inside a circular screen sitting on a raised cylinder inside, the crud & sediment appears to settle below it around next to the clear bowl. On top is the swing-over wire clamp with the tightening wheel arrangement. Earlier, I had thought that the PO had maybe just switched the valves and mounted an original pump upside down for easy screen removal & cleaning, but this is a completely different unit... Can someone identify it? It seems to work quite nicely & would be easier to clean the screen & sediment away. Help! R. Wade Hughes Integration Engineer, NMS for Data NTC, Nokia Group Valimotie 1, 2nd Floor 82 Pontiac GP 267 V8 T-Roof "Mom'z Car" 00045 Helsinki, Finland 70 Land Rover SIIA 109 Petrol "Zenith" Tel: (358-9)-511-6332 73 Citroen 2CV4 "Zéphyr" Fax: (358-9)-511-63310 Email: hughes@shire.ntc.nokia.com (Unix) or: wade.hughes@ntc.nokia.com (MS Mail) ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 11:10:26 -0500 Subject: Re: This "Unusual" Fuel Pump Dumb question - could this be a stock newer pump that some PO added a (non-Rover) sediment bowl to? I have seen add-on sediment bowls before, and the priming lever really seems to be a kicker to a Rover-intended pump. aj"Heaven only knows..."r ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 11:20:43 -0500 (EST) From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com> Subject: Re: This "Unusual" Fuel Pump On Thu, 12 Mar 1998 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote: > Dumb question - could this be a stock newer pump that some PO added a > (non-Rover) sediment bowl to? I have seen add-on sediment bowls before, and > the priming lever really seems to be a kicker to a Rover-intended pump. I have seen primer levers on other fuel pumps, so I wouldn't assume anything. However, fuel pumps are fairly cheap. Buy a new one, either a good quality aftermarket one, or a rebuilt Rover one; then you will know which pump you have and what the rebuild kit is. The current genuine pump doesn't have a sediment bowl, and I don't think it can be rebuilt. David > aj"Heaven only knows..."r > (non-Rover) sediment bowl to? I have seen add-on sediment bowls before, and > the priming lever really seems to be a kicker to a Rover-intended pump. ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk> Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 16:26:49 +0000 Subject: Re: This "Unusual" Fuel Pump Yes, there's not much price between a rebuild kit and a new pump (or not for the 2.25l petrol). I have a strange un-used pump that might be of use to someone. I forget the part-number off-hand, but I think its on http://www.cix.co.uk/~rigel/alice.htm - near the bottom. It doesn't have a sediment bowl, but has a priming lever. The entry/exit holes are in the wrong places compared to a 2.25l pump. No idea what kind of rover engine it is meant to fit. Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109" FFR) david@infocom.com on 03/12/98 04:20:43 PM Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com cc: (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC) Subject: Re: This "Unusual" Fuel Pump On Thu, 12 Mar 1998 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote: > Dumb question - could this be a stock newer pump that some PO added a > (non-Rover) sediment bowl to? I have seen add-on sediment bowls before, and > the priming lever really seems to be a kicker to a Rover-intended pump. I have seen primer levers on other fuel pumps, so I wouldn't assume anything. However, fuel pumps are fairly cheap. Buy a new one, either a good quality aftermarket one, or a rebuilt Rover one; then you will know which pump you have and what the rebuild kit is. The current genuine pump doesn't have a sediment bowl, and I don't think it can be rebuilt. David > aj"Heaven only knows..."r [ truncated by lro-lite (was 8 lines)] ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 18:51:19 +0200 (EET) From: "R. Wade Hughes" <hughes@stybba.ntc.nokia.com> Subject: Re: This "Unusual" Fuel Pump -- I just went down to the garage again,(staying later while I let a painted door panel dry); Al, the bowl is definitely part of a cast looking piece that mounts properly on the top and there's brass screws holds this cast piece to the body, everything clean. The Paddock's catalogue beside me here says £16.90 for a pump, 3.95 for a repair kit. Guess you're right David, seems that's the best & cheapest way to go... it would also be a truer restoration, too. Thanks for the help, I'll log out, 6:45pm now. (BTW the PO, a welder, put stainless steel panels on the doors, back door, & back walls, expensive sheet, cleanly installed at the back, but not so good at the doors. Happy Rovering at home, Wade R. Wade Hughes Integration Engineer, NMS for Data NTC, Nokia Group Valimotie 1, 2nd Floor 82 Pontiac GP 267 V8 T-Roof "Mom'z Car" 00045 Helsinki, Finland 70 Land Rover SIIA 109 Petrol "Zenith" Tel: (358-9)-511-6332 73 Citroen 2CV4 "Zéphyr" Fax: (358-9)-511-63310 Email: hughes@shire.ntc.nokia.com (Unix) or: wade.hughes@ntc.nokia.com (MS Mail) ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 12:24:55 -0500 From: Dan & Sally Cantwell <dcantwel@cgo.wave.ca> Subject: Re: Brake pipe routing-air in brake system Paul Quin wrote: > O.K. sounds intriguing...what's the procedure to gravity bleed? > Adjuster cams seem ok as do the drums & flex hoses. O.K. Paul here it goes. Gravity Bleeding: All you have to do is undo the bleeder screws and let gravity do its job. Using the same order as you would for bleeding in the conventional manner. Just lie there with a light on your subject(victim) and watch the air bubbles go. I'm not sure if this method would work on a master cylinder, so you'd still have to bench bleed the master. Now one more idea I had from your posting.I would try the bleeding first, but what I think is going to happen from the sounds of what you wrote is that you are going to get a good pedal that will last until you hit the end of your street on your first test drive and then go down hill from there. You said you hadn't replaced the flex lines. If you still have air in the system and you are absolutely sure that you have run enough fluid through to have chased all the air out, then my friend, you need new flex lines. This happened to me just after Christmas $350. in parts and I still had a double pump system. Flex lines looked good, but through the advice of someone on the list(sorry can't remember who) I changed all three and the rest is history. Good luck, Dan, '61 SII 88 HT Oakville ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Subject: RE: Odd electrical connectors on my new wiring harness. Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 09:27:00 -0800 Jeremy Writes: >Aren't they color coded? The wiring diagram should indicate where they belong. As a first wild guess you might be looking at coil connectors or perhaps some of the wires going to the ignition switch. Both use screw secured multi spade connectors.< Yes, they are colour coded. I know where to attach them. The problem is that the connectors don't match. The ones on the loom and the ones on the backs of the gauges are both male for one thing, and they are different designs... You say that they are screw secured...they would have to be very tiny screws?? Do I just lay one spade against the other and screw them together? Thanks for your help Paul. ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 13:41:14 -0500 From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net> Subject: Presentations Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote: >I've been tasked with pulling together technical presentations for the >50th Anniversary >I don't care what it is, as long as it meets 4 basic criteria. >2. You be able to present this to a group of folks without endangering them >or yourself. Awww, gee, Alan. That takes all the fun out of it. I was hoping someone would demonstrate the starting-ether-reseating-the-tire-bead trick. I'd watch - from about 30 meters away...and behind cover.... Cheers *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----* | | | A. P. ("Sandy") Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | Association of North American Rover Clubs | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 | *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----* ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 13:37:30 -0500 (EST) From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com> Subject: Re: Presentations On Thu, 12 Mar 1998, A. P. "Sandy" Grice wrote: > Awww, gee, Alan. That takes all the fun out of it. I was hoping someone > would demonstrate the starting-ether-reseating-the-tire-bead trick. I'd > watch - from about 30 meters away...and behind cover.... Cheers I saw part of a TLC program on 4WD vehicles a few days ago, and they showed some nuts doing this. They didn't even throw a lighted match at the tire, instead sticking a lighter into the stream of ether and using it as a flamethrower! ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DOC2BE99 <DOC2BE99@aol.com> Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 14:05:40 EST Subject: Muscle car/ Rover swap Hi all, I have a 1970 Oldsmobile 442 that I would like to sell or trade for a series Rover. The car was restored in 1991-92. It is an original hard top car with a factory Ram air hood and factory wing. The engine was professionally rebuilt by Wheels and Keels of Ft. Myers Fl. It is painted midnight blue with black stripes. The chrome was redone in 94. It has the original 455 Bigblock engine. I have invested over $19,000 in the car and have receipts. It is a beautiful car and has been well cared for. I would sell the car for $11,500 or work out a trade for a rover. I would like to get a hold of a SWB diesel truck, preferably a light weight, although I will consider and respond to all offers. You can e-mail me directly at doc2be99@aol.com or call (770) 928-9846 Regards, Charles Yes I am also the fellow who has the cruiser for sale/trade. Can you go through a mid-life crisis at 29? ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 11:06:36 -0800 From: Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com (Todd Wilson) Subject: Snow....How Deep? I'm planning a trip to a Mt. cabin at the end of the month. I was just in contact with the local ranger station and they said that the road to the cabin wasn't passable and that I probably will need to X-country ski or snowshoe into the site. Soooo.... How deep can a 109 with a rear ARB and chains get/go and get out? I don't know if this is a rhetorical question or not but, I guess you don't know unless you ask. tew ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 20:29:13 +0100 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: Snow....This deep! I'd give you the chance of getting through an average of 8-10 inches - maybe less on uphill stretches where speed isn't possible, maybe more when you are able to approach it like a bat out of hell. I have gone through light fluffy snow up to 2-3 feet deep, as long as I can get a run up, and push it out of the way. But if it's gooey snow and it piles up under the gearbox, then 6-8 inches can get you well and truly stuck within a few yards. My drive gets snowed up most winters - up to 2 feet deep, and I have to drive over the ploughed field instead - always works ok, as long as I can keep the speed up and the ratio low. The slightest hesitation and I get stuck - I choose the field, because even in the dark in a snowstorm, there is nothing to hit, so I don't need to be able to see where I'm going until I hit the road. As someone once said to me "Land Rovers can get through almost anything, but can get you out of very little" so the secret is - choose a route where you don't have to slow down or stop until you know that you are on solid ground. Good luck! Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk --------------------------------------------------- Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 13:05:11 +0100 From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com> Subject: Re: Snow....This deep! Last Winter we had 26-30 inches of moderately heavy snow in front of the garage, (yes I know) and had to get out. Put the chains on the front axle (tires) used a lawn rack to clear the snow from the drive ( that was a chore), I've since purchased a snow shovel. Warmed up the Rover and made a made dash to the road. If I stoped there was no way I would ever get going again. Once I got back with supplies from the market (staffed by people who walked to work) I parked the rover intending to stay for the duration. Next day it was all slush and the day after that it was gone. With sixteens instead of 15 inch tires my ability in the snow would have been better. Tom Spoto '72' 88" Truck Cab Adrian Redmond wrote: > I'd give you the chance of getting through an average of 8-10 inches - > maybe less on uphill stretches where speed isn't possible, maybe more > when you are able to approach it like a bat out of hell. I have gone > through light fluffy snow up to 2-3 feet deep, as long as I can get a > run up, and push it out of the way. But if it's gooey snow and it piles > up under the gearbox, then 6-8 inches can get you well and truly stuck > within a few yards. [ truncated by list-digester (was 38 lines)] > Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk > --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 15:10:38 -0600 From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze) Subject: Re: Snow....This deep! > Last Winter we had 26-30 inches of moderately heavy snow in front of the > garage, (yes I know) and had to get out. Put the chains on the front axle > (tires) used a lawn rack to clear the snow from the drive ( that was a > chore), I've since purchased a snow shovel. Warmed up the Rover and made a > made dash to the road. If I stoped there was no way I would ever get going > again. Once I got back with supplies from the market (staffed by people who > walked to work) I parked the rover intending to stay for the duration. Next [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)] > day it was all slush and the day after that it was gone. With sixteens > instead of 15 inch tires my ability in the snow would have been better. I high centered my 16in equiped 109 this weekend in snow. It was about 36 inches deep. I had been driving thru drifts about 20in deep w/ no problem, just don't slow down whatever you do. M ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull <Solihull@aol.com> Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 17:13:00 EST Subject: Re: Bearing Part numbers >> I posted a complete list of all series Land Rover bearings on the digest last year, unfortunatley in my amatuer computer mode I lost the file, some one must have saved it !! As a matter of fact............ ROVER BEARING DESIGNATIONS ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT v ROVER PART No Landrover 88 and 109 Series II Pick-ups: 1958 to 1962 Landrover 88 and 109 Series IIA Pick-ups: 1 962 to 1973 Landrover forward control Pick-up: 1962 to 1973 Bearing Position Qty Designation Service Part No. FRONT AXLE Hubs, inner 2 K 359S/K 354X (FAG) 217269 Hubs, outer 2 K 11162/K 11300 (FAG) 217270 Swivel Pins 2 K 21 075/K 21212 ( FAG ) 217268 Half Shafts 2 1/LLRJ 34 9 244150 Differential (fwd. control models) 2 K 28580/K 28521 (FAG) 549457 (other models) 2 K2788/K2729 (FAG) 41045 Bevel Pinion (axle suffix 'A') front 1 K 3490/K 3420 (FAG) 219544 rear 1 K 3193/K 3120 (FAG) 219550 Bevel Pinion (axle suffix 'B') front 1 KH M 801346X/KHM 801310 ( FAG ) 539706 rear 1 KM 88046/KM 88010 ( FAG ) 539707 Water Pump (2 litre petrol) 1 FPS7 213695 (2.25 litre petrol &diesels) 1 1/FPS83 523354 (2 litre diesel) 1 1/FPS83 523354 (some diesels) 1 FPS83 247077 (fwd. control models) 1 FPS 153 509248 Dynamo (2 litre petrol) 1 6202 242672 (2 litre diesel) 1 6203 260026 (2.25 litre petrol & diesels) 1 6202 242672 Governor 1 LJ 1/2 262729 Governor 1 KLNJ 1/2 262728 Gearbox Clutch Release 1 6207/C3 G R B 203 Const. Mesh Pinion 1 23/LJ 1 1/2 55714 Mainshaft, front 1 RA 156 (ND-H) 06397 Mainshaft, rear 1 6307/C3 1645 Layshaft, front (gearbox suffix A) 1 MJ 3/4 /C3 09962 (gearbox suffix B ) 1 6305/C3 528701 Layshaft, rear 1 LRJA 7/8 / C3 55715 TRANSFER CASE Mainshaft (not centre or rear PTO) 1 93316 (ND-H) 217478 Intermediate Gear Shaft (gearbox suffix A ) 1 94628 ( N D - H ) 219466 (gearbox suffix B) 1 S 52-2028 521329 Output Shaft, front 1 K 14137A/K 14276 (FAG) 217490 Output Shaft, rear 1 K 28137/K 28317 (FAG) 217512 Front output shaft 1 LJ 1!/4 /C3 217325 REAR AXLE Bevel Pinion (axle suffix 'A') frnnt 1 K 31 93/K3120 (FAG) 219550 rear 1 K 3490/K 3420 (FAG 219554 Bevel Pinion (axle suffix 'B') front 1 KM 88010 (FAG) 539707 rear 1 KH M 801 346X/KH M 801310 ( FAG) 539706 Differential 2 K 2788/ K 2729 ( FAG) 41045 Hubs, inner 2 K 359S/K 354X (FAG) 548221/548220 Hubs, outer 2 K11162/K11300 FAG) 548223/548222 POWER TAKE-OFF PTO Shaft, front 1 23/LJ11 /2 55714 PTO Shaft. rear 1 LJ1 1/4 /C3 217325 Drive Section 1 K 1 985/K 1932 (FAG) 217504 Mainshaft 1 93316 ( N D - H ) 217478 Pulley Pinion 1 K-35175 /K-35326 (SKF) 217505 Pulley Bevel Wheel 1 K 2578/K 2523S ( FAG ) 217506 FRONT WINCH Worm Shaft 1 N2897 235646 Worm Shaft 1 6204 219088 REAR WINCH Worm Shaft 2 K-35175/K-35326 (SKF) 217505 Rear Drive Shaft (with Welder Air Compressor) 2 MJ 11/4 235240 BROCKHURST TRAILER Hubs, inner 2 K 14125A/ K 14274 (FAG) 548225 / 548224 Hubs outer 2 K 09074/K09196 (FAG ) 03572 Landrover Series _III: 1973 and on FRONT AXLE Hubs, inner 2 K 359S/K 354X (FAG) 217269 ( GHB 162 ) Hubs, outer 2 K 11162/K 11300 (FAG) 217270 Swivel Pins 2 K 21 075/K 21212 ( FAG ) 217268 Half Shafts 2 1/LLRJ 34 9 244150 Differential 2 K2788/2729 (FAG) 41045 Bevel Pinion front 1 KH M 801346X/KHM 801310 ( FAG ) 539706 rear 1 KM 88046/KM 88010 ( FAG ) 539707 Water Pump 1/FPS 83 523354 Alternator, front 6202/C3 Alternator, rear 6202 Z/C3 Clutch Release 4/W 39 GRB 223 Const. Mesh Pinion 1 23/LJ 1 1/2 55714 Mainshaft Pilot 1 RA 156 (ND-H) 06397 Mainshaft rear 1 6307 C3 1645 Layshaft Front 1 6305/C3 528701 TRANSFER GEARS Mainshaft, rear 1 93316 +_ 217478 + 217843 Intermediate shaft 2 S 52-2028 521329 Output shaft, front 1 K 14137A/ K 14276 (FAG) 217490 Output shaft, rear 1 K 28137/K 28317 ( FAG ) 217512 Front Output Shaft 1 LJ 1 1/4 /C3 21 7325 REAR AXLE (88 inch wheelbase) Bevel Pinion,front 1 KM88046/KM 88010 ( FAG ) 539707 Bevel Pinion rear 1 KHM 801346X/KH M 801310( FAG ) 539706 Differential 2 K 2788/K 2729 (FAG) 41045 Hubs, inner 2 K359S/K354X (FAG) GHB 162 Hubs, outer 2 K 11162/K 11300 (FAG) 217270 REAR AXLE (109 inch wheelbase) Bevel Pinion, front 1 607181 Bevel Pinion, rear 1 KHM 803146/KH M 803110 (FAG) 607180 Differential 2 607187 Hubs, inner 2 K359S/K354X (FAG) GHB 162 Hubs, outer 2 K 111 62/K 11 300 ( FAG ) 217270 --=====================_851909728==_-- Cheers!! John Dillingham near Canton, GA KF4NAS LROA #1095 73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy" 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1 Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say: Land Rovers for Agriculture! Land Rovers for Industry! Land Rovers for Recreation! Land Rovers forever!! D.V. ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull <Solihull@aol.com> Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 17:21:44 EST Subject: Re: Bearing Part numbers >> I posted a complete list of all series Land Rover bearings on the digest last year, unfortunatley in my amatuer computer mode I lost the file, some one must have saved it !! As a matter of fact............ ROVER BEARING DESIGNATIONS ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT v ROVER PART No Landrover 88 and 109 Series II Pick-ups: 1958 to 1962 Landrover 88 and 109 Series IIA Pick-ups: 1 962 to 1973 Landrover forward control Pick-up: 1962 to 1973 Bearing Position Qty Designation Service Part No. FRONT AXLE Hubs, inner 2 K 359S/K 354X (FAG) 217269 Hubs, outer 2 K 11162/K 11300 (FAG) 217270 Swivel Pins 2 K 21 075/K 21212 ( FAG ) 217268 Half Shafts 2 1/LLRJ 34 9 244150 Differential (fwd. control models) 2 K 28580/K 28521 (FAG) 549457 (other models) 2 K2788/K2729 (FAG) 41045 Bevel Pinion (axle suffix 'A') front 1 K 3490/K 3420 (FAG) 219544 rear 1 K 3193/K 3120 (FAG) 219550 Bevel Pinion (axle suffix 'B') front 1 KH M 801346X/KHM 801310 ( FAG ) 539706 rear 1 KM 88046/KM 88010 ( FAG ) 539707 Water Pump (2 litre petrol) 1 FPS7 213695 (2.25 litre petrol &diesels) 1 1/FPS83 523354 (2 litre diesel) 1 1/FPS83 523354 (some diesels) 1 FPS83 247077 (fwd. control models) 1 FPS 153 509248 Dynamo (2 litre petrol) 1 6202 242672 (2 litre diesel) 1 6203 260026 (2.25 litre petrol & diesels) 1 6202 242672 Governor 1 LJ 1/2 262729 Governor 1 KLNJ 1/2 262728 Gearbox Clutch Release 1 6207/C3 G R B 203 Const. Mesh Pinion 1 23/LJ 1 1/2 55714 Mainshaft, front 1 RA 156 (ND-H) 06397 Mainshaft, rear 1 6307/C3 1645 Layshaft, front (gearbox suffix A) 1 MJ 3/4 /C3 09962 (gearbox suffix B ) 1 6305/C3 528701 Layshaft, rear 1 LRJA 7/8 / C3 55715 TRANSFER CASE Mainshaft (not centre or rear PTO) 1 93316 (ND-H) 217478 Intermediate Gear Shaft (gearbox suffix A ) 1 94628 ( N D - H ) 219466 (gearbox suffix B) 1 S 52-2028 521329 Output Shaft, front 1 K 14137A/K 14276 (FAG) 217490 Output Shaft, rear 1 K 28137/K 28317 (FAG) 217512 Front output shaft 1 LJ 1!/4 /C3 217325 REAR AXLE Bevel Pinion (axle suffix 'A') frnnt 1 K 31 93/K3120 (FAG) 219550 rear 1 K 3490/K 3420 (FAG 219554 Bevel Pinion (axle suffix 'B') front 1 KM 88010 (FAG) 539707 rear 1 KH M 801 346X/KH M 801310 ( FAG) 539706 Differential 2 K 2788/ K 2729 ( FAG) 41045 Hubs, inner 2 K 359S/K 354X (FAG) 548221/548220 Hubs, outer 2 K11162/K11300 FAG) 548223/548222 POWER TAKE-OFF PTO Shaft, front 1 23/LJ11 /2 55714 PTO Shaft. rear 1 LJ1 1/4 /C3 217325 Drive Section 1 K 1 985/K 1932 (FAG) 217504 Mainshaft 1 93316 ( N D - H ) 217478 Pulley Pinion 1 K-35175 /K-35326 (SKF) 217505 Pulley Bevel Wheel 1 K 2578/K 2523S ( FAG ) 217506 FRONT WINCH Worm Shaft 1 N2897 235646 Worm Shaft 1 6204 219088 REAR WINCH Worm Shaft 2 K-35175/K-35326 (SKF) 217505 Rear Drive Shaft (with Welder Air Compressor) 2 MJ 11/4 235240 BROCKHURST TRAILER Hubs, inner 2 K 14125A/ K 14274 (FAG) 548225 / 548224 Hubs outer 2 K 09074/K09196 (FAG ) 03572 Landrover Series _III: 1973 and on FRONT AXLE Hubs, inner 2 K 359S/K 354X (FAG) 217269 ( GHB 162 ) Hubs, outer 2 K 11162/K 11300 (FAG) 217270 Swivel Pins 2 K 21 075/K 21212 ( FAG ) 217268 Half Shafts 2 1/LLRJ 34 9 244150 Differential 2 K2788/2729 (FAG) 41045 Bevel Pinion front 1 KH M 801346X/KHM 801310 ( FAG ) 539706 rear 1 KM 88046/KM 88010 ( FAG ) 539707 Water Pump 1/FPS 83 523354 Alternator, front 6202/C3 Alternator, rear 6202 Z/C3 Clutch Release 4/W 39 GRB 223 Const. Mesh Pinion 1 23/LJ 1 1/2 55714 Mainshaft Pilot 1 RA 156 (ND-H) 06397 Mainshaft rear 1 6307 C3 1645 Layshaft Front 1 6305/C3 528701 TRANSFER GEARS Mainshaft, rear 1 93316 +_ 217478 + 217843 Intermediate shaft 2 S 52-2028 521329 Output shaft, front 1 K 14137A/ K 14276 (FAG) 217490 Output shaft, rear 1 K 28137/K 28317 ( FAG ) 217512 Front Output Shaft 1 LJ 1 1/4 /C3 21 7325 REAR AXLE (88 inch wheelbase) Bevel Pinion,front 1 KM88046/KM 88010 ( FAG ) 539707 Bevel Pinion rear 1 KHM 801346X/KH M 801310( FAG ) 539706 Differential 2 K 2788/K 2729 (FAG) 41045 Hubs, inner 2 K359S/K354X (FAG) GHB 162 Hubs, outer 2 K 11162/K 11300 (FAG) 217270 REAR AXLE (109 inch wheelbase) Bevel Pinion, front 1 607181 Bevel Pinion, rear 1 KHM 803146/KH M 803110 (FAG) 607180 Differential 2 607187 Hubs, inner 2 K359S/K354X (FAG) GHB 162 Hubs, outer 2 K 111 62/K 11 300 ( FAG ) 217270 --=====================_851909728==_-- Cheers!! John Dillingham near Canton, GA KF4NAS LROA #1095 73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy" 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1 Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say: Land Rovers for Agriculture! Land Rovers for Industry! Land Rovers for Recreation! Land Rovers forever!! D.V. ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Chris Velardi" <tchris@freewwweb.com> Subject: test Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 18:42:18 -0500 [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ] charset="iso-8859-1" Testing to see if it working Chris "V" ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BD4DE6.95F32A40 [ Original post was HTML ] charset="iso-8859-1" <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> <HTML> <HEAD> <META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 = http-equiv=3DContent-Type> <META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Testing to see if it = working</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Chris = "V"</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML> ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BD4DE6.95F32A40-- ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mark 3219 <Mark3219@aol.com> Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 20:32:03 EST Subject: Calander based index for 98 ? When will a calander based index be available for 1998 ? I have missed some of the postings and I can not go back to read the answers to some of the questions . Thanks Mark ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Olafur Agust Axelsson" <olafura@rhi.hi.is> Subject: Dieseling Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 02:40:32 -0000 Hi! I think I once saw something about a thing called *dieseling* here on the list - something to occur in petrol engines - after the ignition has been turned of - I think my beloved one is suffering from it!! - Can anyone explain it to me? - Is it something to worry about? Thanx! Oli Agust ------------------ Cindarella - 66 SWB petrol - slept for ten years! ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Thu, 12 Mar 98 14:52:32 EST Subject: Re[2]: Snow....This deep! >> 6-8 inches can get you well and truly stuck within a few yards. well, if that's the voice of experience, than ok, but we had two feet of snow here in DC a few years back, and the only time I got stuck at all was when I tried to drive through the plow remains on the side of the road. And that was usually a good 30" or so. I drove down a lot of streets that hadn't been driven at all or plowed, and it just kept going. I can't believe that 6-8" would get you that stuck. But then again, given the right conditions, I guees anything's possible. >"Land Rovers can get through almost anything, but can get you out of very >little" That's what the OTHER Land Rover is for. Or the winch... later DaveB ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 22:46:27 -0500 (EST) From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com> Subject: Re: Dieseling On Wed, 12 Mar 1997, Olafur Agust Axelsson wrote: > I think I once saw something about a thing called *dieseling* here on the list - something to occur in petrol engines - after the ignition has been turned of - I think my beloved one is suffering from it!! - Can anyone > explain it to me? - Is it something to worry about? Dieseling is also called run on, which is exactly what it is. The engine continues running after the ignition has been shut off. It is called dieseling because your petrol motor is now imitating a diesel, with ignition caued be compression rather than spark. It generally not a good thing, but if it isn't excessive, you needn't worry about it. David > Cindarella - 66 SWB petrol - slept for ten years! Hmm, my 66 SWD spent most of the eighties in junkyard ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 20:26:46 -0800 From: John Hong <jhong@best.com> Subject: moving big stuff... Hi Folks, So those of you who have been fortunate to receive a large or heavy rover component like a new frame - how did you handle it? Getting it on/off the truck. Into the garage, etc. Eat a lot of Wheaties? Work out? Get a bunch of friends over, hump it, then give em beer? Fabricate a wheely thing? Thanks John ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 19:43:57 +0100 From: Luc Rokegem <bs174957@skynet.be> Subject: Fitting new shock-absorbers A year ago I bought a SIII Lightweight in reasonable condition and wanted to do some minor repairs to give it a new life........ Now I am in the middle of a complete rebuild, witch involved complete rebuilding off the axles, galvanizing the chassis, replacing the 2.25 petrol engine with a 2.25 Diesel.... Now I have a complete rolling-chassis with engine and gearbox mounted. I did not tightened the shackle bolts, because I have to put some weight on it prior to tighten the bolts. The problem is that I don't now how much I have to deflect the springs and how. For the moment it is not possible to fit my new shocks :-( ******************** * Luc Rokegem * * defender@skynet.be * * 0032 3/789.01.34 * * 0032 477/22.31.04 * * * * Lightweight SIII 88 * * Landrover 110 TDI * ******************** ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 23:37:47 -0500 From: Brian Cramer <defender@uscom.com> Subject: Re: moving big stuff... I can lift allot for a good beer. Where are you located, and what kind of micro-brews do you have access too? At 11:26 PM 3/12/98 , you wrote: >Hi Folks, >So those of you who have been fortunate to receive a large or heavy rover >component like a new frame - how did you handle it? Getting it on/off the >truck. Into the garage, etc. >Eat a lot of Wheaties? Work out? Get a bunch of friends over, hump it, >then give em beer? Fabricate a wheely thing? [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)] >Thanks >John Cheers, Brian Cramer (888)434-4678 office (609)665-4451 office fax (609)273-9708 home (609)458-6671 cellular ICQ #5696173 '94 D90 (#1251) '90 RR County '70 IIa Lightweight '89 Range Rover (For Sale: $10,995 OBO) ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 22:03:22 -0800 From: John Hong <jhong@best.com> Subject: title companies... I hear there are companies in the us that buy totaled cars and then resell the reg/title/vin... I had zero luck trying to find one...anybody out there know of some? Thanks John "looking for a 109 and an 88 reg" Hong ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "drew squires" <drewteri@concentric.net> Subject: Re: title companies... Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 02:38:31 -0500 Yes, there are, but it's somewhat illegal. Why not call your state's Dept. of Motor Vehicles & find out what the requirements are for registering it as a formerly "wrecked vehicle" that is now repaired. I know it can be done in New York cause I did it years ago with a Land Cruiser (Jap) that I salvaged from the Woodstock Town Dump. All they wanted was a receipt, or statement of how I got it. After that it just had to pass inspection. I did find the Vin # on it, but even if I couldn't it could still be done. Good Luck. Drew. drewteri@concentric.net (Still looking - 109) ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnung_Jensen?=" <bjjen13b@online.no> Subject: Re: Snow....This deep! Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998 09:06:31 +0100 Well, there seems to be a lot of tales about driving through snow <.................> this deep. All I can say is that living at the west coast of Norway, I have learnt that there is <..................> that many TYPES of snow. I have driven ON 3 meters (about 9-10 feet) of snow without any problems, and I have been stopped by 15 cm (less than 6 inches) in my Range Rover. The worst you can do is not to inspect the condition of the snow first. Imagine driving towards a snow drift and believing speed will pull you THROUGH and suddenly realising you start to climb UP and go on for a few meters and THEN SINK down in a meter (3 feet) of snow. Well, I can tell that is HARD WORK. On the other hand if you live in a dry area you may see fluffy snow which will allow a 2 wheel drive with good tires to go THROUGH 1 meter (3 feet) without any problems. All I intended to say was , CHECK THE CONDITIONS OF THE SNOW!!! (after having learned from experience! :) ) Regards Bjørnung Jensen Norway ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980313 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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