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Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 06:59:59 -0500
From: Robert M McCullough <dieselbob@erols.com>
Subject: lubricant

I've found a product that works extremely well for freeing up frozen
nuts and bolts, stuck door tops, steering relays, etc. It's called Fluid
Film, made by Eureka Chemical Co., in S.F., Ca. I bought it at a wire
rope, and sling company, Heco. They recommend spraying it on cable to
prevent rusting. Works better than PJ Blaster without the strong smell.
As you spray it on rusted items you actually can see it bubbling away,
amazing stuff. Its used by crane operators, marine equipment operators.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 09:02:17 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Distributor Cap  -  Are you in the bush?

David and Cynthia Walker wrote:
> Use it if you need to get out.  Other wise, get a new one and set the
> cracked one free.
> It would work in an emergency but if you are near civilization.

 I just took it out of the box and I'm just to cheap to set it free. 
I should have checked it when I bought it. Thought maybe a fix was in 
order for it, something like Dura-Weld, or some such sealer. I wonder, if 
I set it free, will it come back? And if so, will it be fixed? And does 
my computer still hum when I'm not in the room with it? Sheett, I must 
find something to do.....

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 09:08:37 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Distributor Cap

NADdMD@aol.com wrote:

> I'd consider it garbage.  Any crack will eventually lead to            
>  condensation under it.

So how does this little "crack" differ from the rather large space found 
between the cap and the distributor? Surely the space is much larger in 
circumference and does not present a great sealing condition.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: "Steve Irwin" <irwin@fred.ifas.ufl.edu>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 08:23:58 EST
Subject: RE: Idle/Stalling problems

Problem: Rover stalls when braking.

A few folks have suggested that it may be related to a vacuumleak in 
the brake booster.  Unfortunately, this was the first thing we 
checked, by pulling the vacuum line to the booster and plugging it.  
Still happens.  I was not clear in my first message that I had 
already done this.

It was also suggested (via private e-mail, thanks Paul) that I try 
driving *backwards* and braking hard to find out if stalls/drops idle 
then.  Did not have time to do that last night.

So, any other sugestions besides the vacuum lines?

Steve Irwin
Fezzik 73 SIII 88
Gainesville, FL

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 15:38:05 +0200 (EET)
From: "R. Wade Hughes" <hughes@stybba.ntc.nokia.com>
Subject: Re: St. David's Day Wishes

-- 
To all those of Welsh (& Celtic blood), and proud of it, I extend to 
you the best wishes for this weekend of the day of our Welsh patron 
saint, David (March 1). As for thou who hast misspoken our Glorius 
Peoples, Afallach will release upon you a plague of Lucasian demons!

Have a happy St. David's Day... 
R. Wade Hughes
Integration Engineer, Network Management Systems    
NTC, Nokia Group            
Valimotie 1, 2nd Floor      82 Pontiac GP 267 V8 T-Roof    (in Canada)
00045 Helsinki, Finland     70 Land Rover SIIA Petrol Hardtop "Zenith"
  Tel: (358-9)-511-6332     73 Citroen 2CV (6-engine) Red     "Zéphyr"
  Fax: (358-9)-511-63310
Email: hughes@shire.ntc.nokia.com (Unix)
   or:  wade.hughes@ntc.nokia.com (MS Mail)

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 14:26:12 +0000
Subject: Re: advancing enemy

Generally, it is the only chapter with carefully numbered sections and
cross-references.
(ie. its not meant to be read at the time of use!).  The stuff near the
end, about gunfire is the best!

Goes on about Degrees of damage, Priorities for Destruction (classified
equipment & documents, followed by radio kit then the vehicle).
Priorities are given for individual bits of the vehicle (carb & dizzy
first, through to body last) and radios.
Spare parts should also be destroyed.
-----------------------------------------
Methods of Destruction    [edited by me!]

408. The following information is for guidance only. Of the several means
of destruction, those most generally applicable are as under.

Mechanical
409. This requires an axe, pick, crowbar or similar implement. The vehicle
and radio installation should be destroyed in accordance with the
priorities given in para. 400.

Burning
410. This requires gasoline, oil or other flammables.

(1) Remove and empty the portable fire extinguishers.

(2) Smash all vital components such as carburettor, distributor, spark
plugs, lights, switches, instruments and control levels. Destroy the radio
equipment by smashing with a heavy implement.

(3) Smash the engine block, engine cylinders, gearbox, transfer box, axle
and suspensions.

(4) Drain or puncture the fuel tank. If gasoline is not readily available,
collect the fuel for use as outlined in sub-para. (5).

(5) With all hatches and windows open to admit air for combustion, pour
gasoline and oil in and over the entire vehicle. Ignite by means of an
incendiary grenade fired from a safe distance, by a burst of flame thrower,
or by a combustible train of suitable length, or other appropriate means.
Take cover immediately.

WARNING: Cover must be taken without delay since an early explosion of the
fuel tank may be caused by the fire. Due consideration should be given to
the highly flammable nature of gasoline and its vapour. Carelessness in its
use may result in painful burns.

Gunfire
411.
[sub paragraphs 1-basically the same as Burning: 1-4]

(5) Destroy the vehicle by gunfire, using adjacent gun tanks, self
propelled guns, artillery, rifles, using rifle grenades or launchers, using
anti-tank rockets. Fire on the vehicle, aiming at the road wheels, engine
compartment and transmission. Although on well-placed direct hit may render
the vehicle temporarily useless, several hits are usually required for
complete destruction unless an intense fire is started, in which case the
vehicle may be considered destroyed.

WARNING: Firing artillery at ranges of 500 yards or less should be from
cover. Firing rifle grenades or anti-tank rockets should also be from
cover.

412. In general, destruction of essential parts, followed by burning, will
usually be sufficient to render the vehicle, armament, and equipment
useless. However, selection of the particular method of destruction
requires imagination and resourcefulness in the utilization of the
facilities at hand under the existing conditions. Time is usually critical.

413. If destruction is ordered, due consideration should be given to:

(1) Selection of a point of destruction that will cause greatest
obstruction to enemy movement and also prevent hazard to friendly troops
from fragments or ricocheting projectiles which may occur incidental to the
destruction by gunfire.

(2) Observance of appropriate safety precautions.

-----------------------------------
Now, how many Humvees have de/instructions like this?  :-)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

wahooadv@earthlink.net on 02/25/98 08:09:19 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: advancing enemy

That sounds like an interesting chapter.  Perhaps you could just pass on a
few tidbits to the masses.
If I read the chapter back to front, would I be able to restore a Land
Rover?
David

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 10:03:54 EST
Subject: Re: Distributor Cap

In a message dated 2/27/98 8:31:58 AM Eastern Standard Time,
seitl@ns.sympatico.ca writes:

<< So how does this little "crack" differ from the rather large space found 
 between the cap and the distributor? Surely the space is much larger in 
 circumference and does not present a great sealing condition.
  >>
It can cause a problem in extreme circumstances (wading for example) but in
what I'm talking about is condensation on the distributor caused by high
humidity and dropping temp (lowering the dewpoint) the moisture generally will
not work up under the cap but will seep through cracks on the top or sides of
the cap.  

Nate

------------------------------

From: Ben Nibali <BNibali@dmtn.com>
Subject: Measure Your Dipstick
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 10:26:00 -0500

First of all, thanks to everyone who responded to my Oil Pump/ Filter/
Pressure Questions post.  I ended up dropping the pan to clean and
inspect the oil pump.  All looked good- so I stitched it back up and
pulled the spark plugs and loosened the oil feed line to the head.  I
cranked the engine with the starter for a while and soon had 40 psi on
the oil pressure gauge and a nice puddle of 20W50 at the back of the
engine.  After I tightened everything back up it started and ran like a
champ.

However.

As I was refilling the engine with oil, I noticed that my dipstick read
"Full" after only 4 quarts.  The manual says 6.85 litres (7.2 quarts)
should be required to fill the engine and filter.  I put in another
quart just to be safe, but even after running the engine for a 1/2-hour
and driving around my back yard the dipstick still indicated that I had
way too much oil in there.

So I took a look at my dipstick and compared it to the drawings in the
manual.  Mine seems to be missing a rather large bulge near the top of
the dipstick that is supposed to (I assume) seal the top of the tube.
I'm wondering if maybe my dipstick drops into the pan too far because of
this missing feature.  My dipstick stops when a bend in the stick hits
the top of the tube.

Here's my request:  I need someone to measure their dipstick from the
"Full" line up to the point that stops it as you insert it into the
tube.  I measure 18.5" exactly on mine.  Someone at home with a Rover
handy please help me out here.

Or maybe I'm missing something here.  Could there be some other
explanation? 

Thanks,
Ben Nibali
somewhere in East Tennessee

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 10:28:53 EST
Subject: Re:  Measure Your Dipstick

I'd measure my dipstick for you, but unfortunately, that's classified
information. ;-)

Actually, I can't get my bonnet open right now. The striker has gummed up and
the cable to open it slipped when I yanked on it.

Good luck getting others' measurements...

pat

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 09:29:21 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: Re: Distributor Cap

> > I'd consider it garbage.  Any crack will eventually lead to            
> >  condensation under it.
> So how does this little "crack" differ from the rather large space found 
> between the cap and the distributor? Surely the space is much larger in 
> circumference and does not present a great sealing condition.

Con,

There shouldn't be a large gap between the the dizzy and cap! The cap
rim is flat, your dizzy rim should be flat, and the springs catches that
hold the cap in place really tightly....so wheres the gap?

Your right that the setup isn't totally moisture proof. Hence the use
of silicone if you are going wading.

Marcus

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 09:58:37 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Measure Your Dipstick

Ben Nibali wrote:
 

 
> Here's my request:  I need someone to measure their dipstick from the
> "Full" line up to the point that stops it as you insert it into the
> tube.  I measure 18.5" exactly on mine.  Someone at home with a Rover
> handy please help me out here.
----
Bill,
	2 of mine are 20" from bottom of stick to inside of bell (top of tube).
Glue a spark plug bootie on the stick @ 20".  HTH   Peter
   -106 
http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Using the cracked distributor 
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 08:02:20 -0800

If the cap works now, you will get either moisture or a carbon build up in
the crack (I am imagining the crack running somewhere up near the spark
leads).  In either case it would lead to misfiring or non-firing.
Honestly, I wouldn't carry it as a spare.  That $8 could leave you walking a
long way, then hitchhiking, then telephoning.....
A trick I always use is:  How much would I pay for that part when I am
broken down.  (I would give someone $30 - maybe even $50 if they were 30
feet away from me and I had to walk out twelve miles for a cap) A
distributor cap is cheap, light and an essential part of the electrical
system.  Get a new one and tell yourself you are carrying it for your next
tune-up.
Why don't you return it.  It would be obvious if it was never used.
David

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 07:57:38 -0800
From: Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com (Todd Wilson)
Subject: Distributor Cap

     
     I'm surprised that no one has mentioned Carbon tracking as an issue 
     with a cracked cap. That was the #2 reason for poor running on my old 
     MGB. It was notorious for developing carbon tracks down the inside of 
     the cap resulting in a grounded high tension lead or two.
     
     As for moisture in the cap, a dab "O' gasoline and a match will 
     usually dry it out!
     
     TEW

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Subject: My measurements 2.25 IIA 88"
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 08:15:28 -0800

Starting from the pointy end of the dipstick.
1 1/2 Min L (mark)
2 7/16 L
4 1/16 H
19 1/4 to the bottom edge of the cap
20  to the top edge of the cap

19 7/8 of the dipstick is in the tube down to the oil pan.

Hope that that helps.  Did you drain all the oil (probable a silly question)
Do not add to much oil, you risk blowing out the seals.

Cheers
David
Stay at Home Father
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
Ural Motorcycle - S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 11:28:12 -0400
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Subject: Re: Stainless steel gauze under carb.

There may be some benefit to putting the gauze between the intake manifold
and the head, as it would help to re-atomize fuel droplets that reformed
between the carb and the port. Also, it would decrease airflow, reducing
top-end power and thereby fuel comsumption. This effect would probably be
more pronounced on cars with long intake runners. I actually have a couple
of samples we were experimenting with for our racecar, so next time I
remove my intake(which will be soon, because I have a massive hole in my
headers), I'll slip a few pieces in and see what happens.

cheers,

Braman

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 08:32:09 -0800

From: "Steve Irwin" <irwin@fred.ifas.ufl.edu>
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 10:51:16 EST
Subject: Idle/Stalling Problems

>I have a 1973 SIII 88 with Zenith carb.  I have owned it for about a 
year.  The weekend of Jan 24, I undertook a carb rebuild/cleaning.  
Replaced the jets, soaked carb body parts in cleaner, new gaskets, 
etc.  Adjusted the float to the correct height based on Haynes.  
Rover ran great for a week.  Went camping/mudding in next weekend.  
Rover ran great all weekend, no problems.  About midweek, I changed 
the engine oil. Rover ran fine for about another week, then started 
stalling at lights.

I bought a Series III-88 new in 1973 and still drive it today.  Other
than a few years when I ran a Rochester carburetor, I've always run the
Zenith.  The only stalling problem I've ever had was when the vehicle
was stopped on any sort of uphill slope, or when it rocked backwards
after coming to a stop.  The problem is that the Zenith carburetor is
prone to warping due to improper heat treating of the castings and also
the lack of a connecting bolt between the top and bottom halves of the
carburetor at the rear of the body.  When the carb is warped, fuel can
flow under or over the main gasket and run down passageways where it
isn't supposed to, bypassing the idle jet and creating way too rich a
mixture.  The result is the engine chugging badly at idle, dieseling
when you switch off the ignition, and stalling.  While I have never
experienced a stalling problem under deceleration, I suppose it's
conceivable the same problem could occur.

If your problem is due to carburetor warping, your only recourse is to
replace the carburetor with one that isn't warped or disassemble your
carburetor and mill the halves flat using a glass plate and the
appropriate grit paper.  I went through about three Zeniths until
finding one that didn't warp over time, and I have reduced the
probability of warping by having a fitting machined that clamps the
upper and lower halves together at the rear of the body where the
designers should have put a fifth bolt but didn't.

One other very simple thing to check is the tightness of the four bolts
that hold the carburetor halves together.  If they loosen up, this will
do the same thing as the warping and will allow fuel to sneak past the
main gasket and into places it shouldn't go.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 98 11:44:47 EST
Subject: Re: My measurements 2.25 IIA 88"

>Hope that that helps.  Did you drain all the oil (probable a silly question) 
>Do not add to much oil, you risk blowing out the seals.

you know, I've heard this before, but if you think about it, how would this 
occur?
1. Oil pressure in the various passages is regulated by the pressure relief 
valve in the oil pump. So if there was excess preesure somehow from to much oil 
then it would be relieved by said valve
2. Crankcase pressure build up is released by the PCV system or into the 
atmosphere through a breather cap. Adding extra oil to the crankcase would 
decrease the volume of airspace in the crankcase, thereby creating a higher 
pressure *in theory*. But...how much extra oil would you have to add for this 
to become a problem? The volume of a quart of oil is a very small percentage of 
the total space inside the crankcase. 

Any thoughts on this? I think its an old wives' tale 
<no offense to any old wives on the list> 

later
DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 10:52:08 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: Re: My measurements 2.25 IIA 88"

> >Hope that that helps.  Did you drain all the oil (probable a silly question) 
> >Do not add to much oil, you risk blowing out the seals.
> you know, I've heard this before, but if you think about it, how would this 
> occur?
> 1. Oil pressure in the various passages is regulated by the pressure relief 
> valve in the oil pump. So if there was excess preesure somehow from to much 
oil 
> then it would be relieved by said valv

I also think 'The blowing the seals theory' is a load of monkeys as well.
The real problem from overfilling with oil is having the crank splash thru
the oil, whipping it up so there`s loads of air bubbles in it. And air
bubbles don't lubricate as well as oil do they....

Anyway. Who on here has an oil seal that is leak free already?

Marcus

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Blowing out seals
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 09:06:18 -0800

I did it on my 1964 Dodge one ton.  I thought that it was a wives tale also.
My father - a mechanic of 24 years, had warned me.  He told me that he had
seen it in the service station (when there was such a thing) a few times.
As I understand it, a seal is not "held in" by much.  I think it would only
happen to old seals... however, I never go over the line.  I also change my
oil and filter religiously every 2000 miles (other advice he gave me)
Anyone else?  Sorry, I don't have a real technical answer for this one.
David

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: Too much oil?
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 09:11:16 -0800

I don't know about too much pressure blowing seals but the first thing
that springs to mind is that, by adding too much oil, you would start to
submerge the bottom of the crank shaft.  I imagine that this would
introduce a lot of drag and stress on an engine spinning @ 3000 rpm, and
probably make some funny noises too...!?!

Paul.

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 98 12:13:04 EST
Subject: Re[2]: My measurements 2.25 IIA 88"

>>I also think 'The blowing the seals theory' is a load of monkeys as well. 

'right then

>>The real problem from overfilling with oil is having the crank splash 
>>thru the oil, whipping it up so there`s loads of air bubbles in it. 

hmm...this is a necessary part of the "crankcase stout" brewing process. If 
there's water in the sump and you were in Cananda would it be "ice brewed"?

Seriously, i don't think the crankshaft swings below the bottom of the 
block, i.e. mating surface of oil pan to block. So you would have to REALLY 
overfill it...truth be told in an oil change just dump in the amount 
specified. Subtract the approksimit volume of the dents in the oil pan if 
your worried 'bout ityou right on with the bubble theory though, they don't 
lubricate for skwat

cheers
Dave "speling is fun"B

>>Anyway. Who on here has an oil seal that is leak free already?

If anyone did they'd be well advised not to mention it

Marcus

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 11:18:36 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: My measurements 2.25 IIA 88"

 and you were in Cananda would it be "ice brewed"?
> Seriously, i don't think the crankshaft swings below the bottom of the 
> block, i.e. mating surface of oil pan to block.

Ack. Having not rebuilt a rover 4, I can't say. But from rebuilding
other motors, ALL of them had cranks that swung into the pan. Is the rover
crank located that high up in the block?

M

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 98 12:30:44 EST
Subject: Re: Blowing out seals

>>As I understand it, a seal is not "held in" by much.

the only seal as such that could actually be blown out would be the front 
crank seal. The rear main is on the opposite side of a pressurised bearing 
journal and isn't *really* subject to gas buildup in the 'case.
The front is "held in" by a metal plate. Aint goin nowhere if that's what 
your saying. 

>  I think it would only happen to old seals... 

 Leaks brought on by excess pressure most likely will happen in a seal 
rather than a gasket, and as such, if the seal was in good shape before, 
will probably go away once pressure is relieved. Seals that are old and 
worn out or that are riding on a scored/pitted/generally munged up surface 
are going to leak regardless of pressure behind them and probably more 
noticeably the higher the pressure. 

> I also change my oil and filter religiously every 2000 miles (other 
>advice he gave me) 

Does the truck face mecca? 2000 miles is a little much I'd say...I knew a 
guy that had an '85 Honda Accord that he got 2nd hand (100k miles). Changed 
the oil every 1500 miles for a while, and now he says when he changes it at 
3000 it still looks almost like it did when it first came out the bottle. 

So I guess it can't hurt, but I try to approach things form a sensical 
rather than fanatical perspective. 3000 miles is more than any manufacturer 
recommends for regular oil changes, but its a good rule of thumb. I've 
heard of studies that determined you could buy the cheapest bargain oil you 
could find and run it for 12k miles, no problem. Personally I think that's 
a little pointless, but interesting nonetheless. I gather engine condition 
also has lots to do with how long the oil lasts. I talked to a guy that had 
a chevy truck, started burning oil at about 200k, when I met him it was on 
300K+, and he hadn't changed the oil in the last 100k, just kept adding 
more. He said he'd put Marvel Mystery Oil in and then run it for 200 miles 
or so, and change the filter, which would tthen be full of crap loosened by 
the MMO.

phew!
DaveB 

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 98 12:32:42 EST
Subject: Re[4]: My measurements 2.25 IIA 88"

>> Is the rover >crank located that high up in the block?

I'm not really that sure TBPH...

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 12:50:30 -0500
From: jberg@hearstnewmedia.com (Jeff Berg)
Subject: Technoffroading: Securing mobile computers.

Neil brings up the issue of vibration through mobile computer mounts. Truth
be told, I hadn't given it much thought. By nature, I don't baby my tools,
be they cameras, computers or whatever. I *expect* them to be able to keep
up with my lifestyle. Which usually works. On the other hand, ask Al Richer
about the results of my early research in submarine portable computing a-la
Picton. Or note the fact that my PalmPilot is currently being
repaired--under warranty --by 3COM after be dropped for the umpteempth
time. (I told them it had been dropped, but they still hold it's a warranty
repair if the case isn't damaged--"class act" IMHO!).

So now that you mention it, I guess I'll look into using some neoprene or
something to cut down on the vibration a bit. (I have lots of scrap
neoprene from Zippy's noise supression/insulation project.)

Jotto Desk update:
I got the Jotto Desk but haven't installed it yet. My early impressions are
that it's well thought out and well constructed...but expensive ($150) for
what you actually get in the box. (At least it doesn't say "marine"--that
would have added another $80.) If you're a good fabricator with a pile of
bits you might want to download a photo off the web and have a go at
rolling your own. On the other hand it would be real easy for me to blow
more hours worth of time than what the thing cost me assembling hardware
and building something.

The "desktop" is made of a softish plastic, which probably does dampen
vibration to a certain extent. My one complaint (and mind you this is
pre-use) is that the "desktop" is kind of small--smaller in fact than the
footprint of my P{owerBook 2400c subnotebook and that the securing
mechanism is "industrial velcro". Only the provided velcro looks more like
the regular grade, not the heavy duty all-plastic type. So I'm trusting the
Velcro and some sort of strap that's recommended--but that I'll have to rig
up as it's not provided--to secure the thing onto a base without sides.

Instead of a strap, I might come up with some sort of tray, filled with
"Anvil case foam" that snugly holds the Powerbook and attaches to the Jotto
using something a bit more substantial--like bolts! The close-cel foam,
used in ATA approved road cases, should take care of the vibration issues.
(Anybody out there have a broken Pelikan case that needs a home?)

I'm also going to take a look at the company mentioned by Matt in Alaska
and see if their offerings are more robust. My current plan is to buy a
second Jotto base and move the desk between Acura and FINSUP--but maybe a
more robust solution is needed for the Rover.

Oh my god, another project...

jab
Lot's-o-'puters: including a Macintosh Portable that SHOULD be used as a
boat anchor and a Duo 230 that was...

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: Does it stick into the pan?
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 10:01:01 -0800

Yup.  I had my pan off <g>  a few weeks ago and the swing of the crank
arms definitely carries them well into the pan.

Sound a bit...well you know...nudge nudge, wink wink say no more!

Paul.

------------------------------

From: Ben Nibali <BNibali@dmtn.com>
Subject: Rear Tub Removal
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 13:06:00 -0500

Thanks for all the responses regarding my dipstick.  I realize now that
this was sort of a personal issue for some of you-- hope no one was
offended...   :- )

Next order of business:  Chopping off my rotten rear cross-member- which
I plan to tackle next weekend.  I will weld the replacement back on
myself, and as my welding skills are not what they could be, I will need
pretty good access to the frame.

So what I'm wondering is- where is the easiest place to break the body
to remove the rear tub.  The vehicle is a '65 IIA 88" Hard Top, and it's
been painted a few times so the fasteners tend to be stubborn.  Keeping
this in mind, and considering that the more of the body I remove the
better access I will have for cleaning the exposed frame and drivetrain,
where should I separate it?

It looks like it would come apart pretty well just ahead of the bulkhead
(behind the seats) but I actually thought it might be easier to remove
the seat box as well.

Also- I'm planning to do this with an Oxy-Acetylene rig, but I believe
that most people MIG it- any comments?

Thanks,
Ben Nibali,
somewhere in East Tennessee

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: My measurements 2.25 IIA 88"
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 10:17:23 -0800

I was young, and I did over fill it.
It was my first vehicle (after over 50 now) and I still have it!
David

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Subject: I also blew away three pistons for the groups amusement
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 10:27:23 -0800

And drove the remaining mile on the five left on another occasion.  Quite a
sight when I opened the oil pan.  Just three connecting rods against
cylinders.
Another time I let someone else put in a clutch.  The bolts holding on the
flywheel backed out - you should have seen the clutch then.  3,200 RPM
during a shift and the bolt jumped in the way.
Let's just say that I don't let any one touch my vehicles any more.
Some one else rebuilt my brakes and decided to "upgrade" the wheel cylinders
to a different unit.
21,000 #'s on a 12% grade and my brakes went to the floor.  No one touches
my brakes now.  Oh, the run away ramp was closed.
David

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 10:19:03 -0800
From: Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com (Todd Wilson)
Subject: Re[5]: My measurements 2.25 IIA 88"

     When the crank is oriented with the rod journals in the same 
     horizontal plane as the main journals, the crank does not extend into 
     the domain of the oil pan. However as the plane of the rod journal 
     centerline rotates into alignment with the vertical centerline of the 
     block, the lower most journals are in the space below the mating 
     surface of the block and pan.
     
     I believe that most engines take advantage of some "crank throw" 
     oiling. Certainly our friend the lowly Briggs and Stratton lawn mower 
     engine depends on oiling via the crank to which a special foot is 
     added to aid in the throwing of oil about the inside of the engine. 
     but I digress. 
     
     My belief in some rod journal-oil contact is partially based on the 
     speed "trick" by Daytona superbike teams to run the oil level at the 
     min amount so as to reduce friction of the crank running through the 
     oil.
     
     tew

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
> Subject: Re[4]: My measurements 2.25 IIA 88"
> Author:  dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org at Internet

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> I'm not really that sure TBPH...
> Dave

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 98 13:49:12 EST
Subject: Re[6]: My measurements 2.25 IIA 88"

     

     >I believe that most engines take advantage of some "crank throw" 
     >oiling. Certainly our friend the lowly Briggs and Stratton lawn 
     >mower engine depends on oiling via the crank to which a special foot 
     >is added to aid in the throwing of oil about the inside of the 
     >engine. but I digress. 

ok, so the crank does hang below the block, but...does the sump fill above the 
baffle at normal capacity?
No real benefit to the crank spinning in the oil, the bearing clearances are 
too small for that to work. Besides the pressure in the journals is constantly 
pushing oil OUT...

later
DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 13:12:29 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: My measurements 2.25 IIA 88"

dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org wrote:
>      >I believe that most engines take advantage of some "crank throw"
>      >oiling. Certainly our friend the lowly Briggs and Stratton lawn
>      >mower engine depends on oiling via the crank to which a special foot
>      >is added to aid in the throwing of oil about the inside of the
>      >engine. but I digress.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> later
> DaveB

Ya gotta splash oil up into cylinders. This is the only way.
Cheers  Peter  -106
--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 15:19:52 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Rear Tub Removal

Ben you are going to get a bunch of conflict advise on this one so
here's my shot at total confusion.
  Trim the old X member and tack the new one in place with the body in
place so you can align for door closing etc. Remove the body at the
bottom of the fire wall and the top of the windshield. If you have the
clearance and lifting gear leave the roof on.
 If you are not an expert don't even think about Oxyacetylene welding
your frame use either  stick or mig. To weld well with mig the sufaces
have to be super clean but stick is alittle more forgiving but harder to
use on thin material.
   John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 11:40:42 -0800
From: Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com (Todd Wilson)
Subject: Re[2]: My measurements 2.25 IIA 88"

     >No real benefit to the crank spinning in the oil, the bearing 
     >clearances are too small for that to work. Besides the pressure in 
     >the journals is constantly pushing oil OUT...
     
     Your right, not much benifit to the journals, but as Peter mentioned 
     there IS a benifit to the cylinder walls. The 2.5 has a nozzel that 
     sprays oil up into the piston crown. I think most others have a 
     drilling that allows pressurized oil to reach the wrist pin and that 
     oil is either sprayed or thrown into the crown and cylinder walls. The 
     result being lubrication as well as some degree of piston cooling. 
     Certainly any oil that was throw up wouldn't hurt. 
     
     At opporating temp I don't think you'd see air bubbles staying in 
     solution for very long. Nor would they be present at the bottom of the 
     pan. They'd rise, and rise more quickly the higher the oil temp. 
     
     tew

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 14:53:49 EST
Subject: Re:  oil-dippin' cranks

In a message dated 2/27/98 2:11:14 PM, about dipping the crank into the oil in
the botom of the pan:

>Ya gotta splash oil up into cylinders. This is the only way.

The *only* way, I think not. How do dry-sump engines do it? Oil squirters that
both coat the cylinder walls and (sometimes) the bottom of the piston to cool
that part. Just take a look in a Porsche 911 engine for a look at a nice
oiling system; then when you want to be impressed, look inside a 962 case at
its oiling system...

But yes, you are correct, sir; on a Land Rover, skimming the top of the oil
would appear to be the only way to oil the cylinder walls. What happens when
on an incline, sideways?

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 98 15:51:27 EST
Subject: oiling pistons and such

dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org wrote:
>      >I believe that most engines take advantage of some "crank throw" 
>      >oiling. Certainly our friend the lowly Briggs and Stratton lawn
  [ truncated by lro-lite (was 21 lines)]

>Ya gotta splash oil up into cylinders. This is the only way. 
>Cheers  Peter  -106

on the briggs and stratton or on all motors?
does the wrist pin get oil through the con rod?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 15:14:34 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: oiling pistons and such

I remember seeing on the TV many years ago a documentary or some such
done at a museum of machines in England. The oldest (or one of) was
quite big (one cylinder) sitting on a HUGE drip pan. Oil was sprayed
externally washing down this whole affair. There was no enclosed block
per se, just this crankshaft flinging around and oil flying all over.
(this particular engine was not the focus of the program so there was no
explanation) It was then that I became comfortable in my ownership of
leaking British cars knowing from whence they came, weeping seals being
better than none. 
	Just a reflection.   Cheers  Peter

--

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: Series 3 2.25 L diesel - should I buy
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 07:54:46 +1100

I'm considering the purchase of S III with a 2.25L diesel (reconditioned
motor) and overdrive - price A$1750 (US$1200).  How much of a slug are
these?  Will I be satisfied after a 4.6L Rangie?

Questions Questions

Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia

'86 Range Rover 4.6L auto (The Last Aquila)
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 1725cc manual
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc manual

Editor, Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter
check my home page at http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
for Hillman and Rover

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: : In response to Jim's reply about diesels...
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 20:26:40 +1100

Marin wrote:
>Ignoring maintenance is far more expensive in the
>long run than keeping a vehicle running right all the time.

I agree with Marin.  I don't seem to have the problems with my Rangie nor my
Hillmans that other people have and possibly this is the reason others don't
rate these cars as highly as they should.

>This has been proven to me time and again in the de Havilland Beaver
> floatplanes I fly; vehicles are no different.
marin.faure@boeing.com

Do you fly Beavers because you like 'em (I do) or because Boeing now own
DHC?
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia

'86 Range Rover 4.6L auto (The Last Aquila)
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 1725cc manual
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc manual

Editor, Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter
check my home page at http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
for Hillman and Rover

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 17:33:46 -0500
From: john taylor <jht@easynet.on.ca>
Subject: stuck in 4wd

Being more aquainted with my gearbox than I would like to be I am looking
for the most likely/quickest fix for a refusal to disengage 4wd. The
freewheeling hubs are working overtime at the moment - anything but pulling
the box please.

re dingleberries: 

What is the connection between the Starship Enterprise and bog paper?

They both cicle Uranus searching for clingons.

Thanks 

John Taylor
SIIa v6 bastard

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 19:01:09 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: stuck in 4wd

john taylor wrote:
> Being more aquainted with my gearbox than I would like to be I am looking
> for the most likely/quickest fix for a refusal to disengage 4wd. The
> freewheeling hubs are working overtime at the moment - anything but pulling
> the box please.

On the very front of the transfercase in the vicinityof the out put
shaft is a little tin cover over the selector shafts If you take this
off I bet you will find unpleasantness inside, remove said
unpleasantness and all should be fine ( with a little of your favourite
penetrant).
    John and Muddy
  PS this can be done without removeing the gearbox just the surrounding
crud.

> re dingleberries:
> What is the connection between the Starship Enterprise and bog paper?
> They both cicle Uranus searching for clingons.
> Thanks

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> John Taylor
> SIIa v6 bastard

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 08:30:36 -0600
Subject: Re: advancing enemy

snip
>Now, how many Humvees have de/instructions like this?  :-)
snip

probably all the DoD models. US Military vehicle manuals all have a chapter
on rendering the vehicle unusable. They also usually have a chapter on
transporting it by rail or flatbed. The manual for my 6x6 that I used to
have even had *very* detailed drawings and measurements for making wheel
chocks for rail transport.

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 15:55:41 -0600
Subject: re: In response to Jim's reply about diesels...

From: Tom Rowe@CDR on 02-24-98 03:55 PM

cc:
Subject:  re: In response to Jim's reply about diesels...

I've been saying it  for years (so why should I stop now?), if you have
limited $$ and must chose between diesel additives to boost hp or mileage,
and a good filter, opt for the filter. especially after you have spent gobs
of money on a pump and injector rebuild. A high quality fuel filter/water
separator will save much more money than the few additional miles you get
from additives. My main use of diesel additives is to prevent that yellow
waxy buildup. No, wait, that's my kitchen floor. I mean to prevent wax
clogged fuel systems in the winter.
I recommend Racor

Tom Rowe
Networking Systems Administrator
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu

Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 16:42:46 -0600
Subject: Any Rover owners in Charlotte, NC?

I'm going to be in Charlotte, North Carolina March 9th-14th for a class.
The class is over on on the 13th, but I'll be cooling my heels, staying
over Sat. to get cheaper air fare. Anyone down that way able to show me a
good brewpub? Or maybe a little off-roading?

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 08:30:32 -0600
Subject: Re: help

From: Tom Rowe@CDR on 02-25-98 08:30 AM

cc:
Subject:  Re: help

>What am I doing wrong?  I keep coming to the list for help and get no
response.  Well that's >not quite right; I did get fussed at when I made
the mistake of sending my first request in >all caps.  Most recently I
asked for help on rear main seal and clutch issues and seem to be >being
ignored.  What gives?

What's the problem again?

Tom Rowe
Network Systems Administrator
WI Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI
608-265-6194 Fax: 608-262-1578
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu

Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 10:05:50 -0600
Subject: AAAA

From: Tom Rowe@CDR on 02-25-98 10:05 AM

cc:
Subject:  AAAA

Since I was gone from the list for so long, I've been wondering if anyone
has made any new modifications to the AAAA? The Antichrist Anti
Animal Attachment for you people who hate acronyms.  (the rare PTO driven
grinder  with optional deflector/slicer and larger hopper setup)

Tom Rowe
Network Systems Administrator
WI Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI
608-265-6194 Fax: 608-262-1578
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu

Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 1998 12:09:23 -0600
Subject: daveb

From: Tom Rowe@CDR on 02-23-98 12:09 PM

cc:
Subject:  daveb

>dave who hates signing his name as DaveB, but doesn't want people to think
his
>obnoxious posts are by one of the other daves

Gee, I'd think you want *want* to.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research
5-6194, Fax:2-1578
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu

Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 1998 08:24:15 -0600
Subject: re: Getting rid of HTML in posts to the list (No Rover--but please

From: Tom Rowe@CDR on 02-24-98 08:24 AM

cc:
Subject:  re: Getting rid of HTML in posts to the list (No Rover--but
      please

J Berg writes:
>Don't blame the tools for the mechanic's incompetence. Both Internet
Explorer and Netscape allow you to turn off imbedded HTML in email
messages--
snip

Well, there's a certain amount of truth to that, but on the other hand, a
poorly (or selfcentered) designed tool is the fault of the tool builder.
Suppose you went down to the hardware store and bought a set of wrenches
and mailed them to a friend out in the mifddle of nowhere so he could fix
his Land Rover (yeah I know, he shoulda' had some with him, but he forgot
them). So he calls you and says they don't fit any of the nuts on the Lamd
Rover. You go back to the hardware store, look at one  of the sets and see
the fine print on a little scrap of paper burried in the bottom of teh box.
"All fractions based on a new bolt size designed especially for the company
founder's new boat. These wrenches not compatible (without modification)
with and SAE bolts sizes."
Who would you blame, your friend or the company making those wrenches?

My drawn out point is that the *default* setting should be to *not* use
html tags. And not assume that everyone in the world is using your
software.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research
5-6194, Fax:2-1578
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu

Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 1998 12:06:47 -0600
Subject: re: HTML tags.

From: Tom Rowe@CDR on 02-23-98 12:06 PM

cc:
Subject:  re: HTML tags.

>Were they "pink" or what ever else was going on...
>Did I rid myself of the HTML encoding?
snip
Yes, thank you very much.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research
5-6194, Fax:2-1578
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu

Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 18:04:26 -0600
Subject: too amny messages

From: Tom Rowe@CDR on 02-27-98 06:04 PM

cc:
Subject:  too amny messages

I didn't *really* send a flood of messages to the list. My Lotus Notes
SMTPMTA barfed on a Word doc attached to someone's e-mail here and nothing
has made it out for a few days. I just fixed it, and 90 backlogged messages
went out at once.

Tom Rowe
Network Systems Administrator
WI Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI
608-265-6194 Fax: 608-262-1578
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu

Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: robot1@juno.com
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 18:04:58 -0600
Subject: Dingleberries

I was NOT suggesting I have a low opinion of Scotsmen. No racism of any
kind was suggested, implied, nor intended. Nor was any slight intended or
implied to any of the world's religeons, any of the seven sexual
preferences, or anyone who owns a Rover.  There, now, don't be offended,
please?                                    (note Rover content^^^^^^)

Bill, I know perfectly well what a dingleberry is, but thanks for showing
us all you have a dictionary. :-) Isn't that what the Enterprise has in
common with toilet paper, that they both circle uranus in search of
Klingons?(good obscure reference, by the way)

Makes me think back to my days in the cellulite mines..........

Mark
(Tongue thoroughly planted in cheek.)

67 109 regular "sheila"

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Subject: Tell us your Name.
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 18:00:00 -0700

It has occured to me that many of us have names for the ones we love ( our
Rovers not the SO's).  I hate to flood the  List with to many submissions,
but WHAT IS YOUR ROVERS NAME?.   We have all taken on a certain amount of
pride in: our vehicles, our ability to solve lives biggest problems (rover
repairs), and the names we use to tell others of our Rovers.  If you don't
want to put it in the list send direct, I will compile all received over the
next week and return the list to this list.

Thanks and have a great weekend.

Mitch and the Red Dinosaur

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 20:01:28 EST
Subject: Irony or what

Hi all,

I was just at the machine shop I use (local NAPA).  These are the guys who
rebuilt a 2.25 petrol engine for me.  We were shootin' the sh*t and the guy
who runs the shop says to me,
"Say Nate, how much do them British Rover engines go for?"
I tell him the price for the short block 3 bearing at RN price and Craddocks
price (I like to look at the catalogs and ads in LRO, what can I say) and ask
him why he's asking.
He says to me
"Well, I guy was in here a few weeks ago and is lookin' for somethin' with a
little more grunt ta put in his Bronco* and I was thinkin' that British Rover
engine's got the kinda stroke that gives good low end grunt....thought it
might just be the ticket."

I just stood there grinning and shaking my head.

Standing on the greener grass this time,
Nate

*'60's and early '70's little Bronco

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 19:04:37 -0600
Subject: Re: Tell us your Name.

My friends (?) in VT started calling mine the Antichrist back in '86 when I
recieved the license plates (by chance) of 6A666.

Tom Rowe
Network Systems Administrator
WI Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI
608-265-6194 Fax: 608-262-1578
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu

Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 21:01:25 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Using the cracked distributor 

David and Cynthia Walker wrote:

> Why don't you return it.  It would be obvious if it was never used.
> David

I thought about returning it, but I've had it a number of years and the 
box it came in looks a bit crusty. The cap looks like it was made 
yesterday. Maybe I'll give it to a friend, just before we go out on the 
trail to see who can out-do each other ;-)

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 20:55:10 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Distributor Cap

Marcus Tooze wrote:
                          
> Con,
> There shouldn't be a large gap between the the dizzy and cap! The cap
> rim is flat, your dizzy rim should be flat, and the springs catches that
> hold the cap in place really tightly....so wheres the gap?

I wasn't meaning a "large" gap, but I guess that's what I wrote eh? What 
I meant was, that in relation to a crack, which hasn't widened, (like a 
crack in your windshield), is no way as near a gap as the gap 'tween the 
cap and dizzy. I would dare say then, that the gap there is quite 
"large". Now having read the post of carbon arcing, I can see moisture 
collecting along the crack and allowing the spark to travel the path, 
whereas moisture in droplets however small, would not make a such a 
desirable path, unless of course the moisture is running down the inside 
the cap. But I stray.  The springs don't hold the cap on that tightly, as 
I've seen what a bit a fun in the river can do to the inside of a cap. 
But yes, silicone is a great saeler, only put it on a day before, not 
while your cleaning the water out. BTW, what's the effect of the drain 
holes in the dizzy? Deep water will fill your cap in no time right? Or do 
you silicone these up as well?

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 20:26:39 -0500
From: Dan & Sally Cantwell <dcantwel@cgo.wave.ca>
Subject: Re: Using the cracked distributor

> > Why don't you return it.  It would be obvious if it was never used.
> > David
> I thought about returning it, but I've had it a number of years and the
> box it came in looks a bit crusty.

So if it's just the box, then go buy a new one, put the cracked one in the
new box and return it that way. You then have a new spare, and one for the
tune-up that will happen this spring(or whenever). But then again, was it
your fault the cap cracked?( I add this for the sake of
morality).             Dan
             "61 SII HT

> > Why don't you return it.  It would be obvious if it was never used.
> > David

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 21:40:00 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Using the cracked distributor

Dan & Sally Cantwell wrote:
> So if it's just the box, then go buy a new one, put the cracked one in the
> new box and return it that way. 
> But then again, was it
> your fault the cap cracked?( I add this for the sake of
> morality).             Dan              

I've been found out. I usually keep my valuable spares hidden in amongst 
the diffs and brake drums. My little stock room is so organized, that you 
would need to pack a lunch just to find the light switch!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: bmc@syspac.com
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 19:48:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Tell us your Name.

My Range Rover's name is "GROVER" and his number plate is GRRRRR.

Regards, 
Jon Nyhus
> It has occured to me that many of us have names for the ones we love (
> our
> Rovers not the SO's).  I hate to flood the  List with to many
> submissions,
> but WHAT IS YOUR ROVERS NAME?.   We have all taken on a certain amount
> of
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> (rover
> repairs), and the names we use to tell others of our Rovers.  If you
> don't
> want to put it in the list send direct, I will compile all received
> over the
> next week and return the list to this list.

------------------------------

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