Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 17:55:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: What is going on in the US? (Dubious LR content)

Razorback Don sed:
Slick Willy's problems seem to stem from his total inability to speak the
truth in plain   
English ( or in any language for that matter).  As for his popularity in the
polls; I suspect it is due to a high level of heavy metal contamination in
fast food.

That, and his apparent inability to remember Mr Rhythm's good advice. (see
the movie, DC Cab)

Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS
LROA #1095
SoLaRoS #23
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1

------------------------------

Date: 2 Feb 1998 08:57:20 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: A day at the junqueyard

A January Saturday morning in New England and I woke to a 40 deg (F) day;
thank you Mr. El Nino (apologies to Pacific coasters getting washed down the
gullies).

A day for the junkyard if ever there was one.  Here's a tip and two questions.

Tip # 1:  Go to the pile of Nissan's.  Search out the 280ZX's (not the 280Z's,
not the 300ZX's). Open the hood.  On the right fenderwell, forward, you will
find a wonderful little trouble light complete with bracket.  It's a quality
piece:  Galvanized cylindrical casing, heavy duty toggle, heavy plastic lens,
and the light detaches from the base and has about 30" of wire stowed under
the cap.    The device comes out with a phillips screwdriver.  The power wire
unplugs, and it grounds through the attachment point.  The jamoke behind the
desk gave it to me for nothing after the obligatory whut-the-hell-izzat head
scratch.  The light sits nicely on my own fenderwell.  (BTW:  I used to drive
one of these great little cars, that's how I knew about the trouble light. 
Never had a need for it with that car, though ;-).

Question 1:  I wasn't really looking for seats - my stock seats aren't too
bad, and the glue from the rolled-ver edges of the duct tape holds my butt in
place on tight corners - but I came across an old Midget with a pair of decent
tilting seats with headrests.  The vinyl is a durable thickness, and the
width/thickness looks just right.  Has anybody used Midget seats in a Series?

Tip/Question:  In the Midget I also found a wiper motor that looked VERY
familiar.  It looked exactly like the single can type in SIII's and late
SIIA's.  One difference - there was a gearbox which provided a 90 deg junction
before leading into a cable very similar to the drive cable in my car.  Is
this the same wiper motor as in my SIII?  I'm sure I can get it for a song,
but I thought I'd check with the List first.

Question 3:  This is rather embarassing, but I bought a digital electric clock
for my new console.  It's in place and looks good (too good, actually).  BUT -
there are four wires for this device.  Can anyone tell me how to wire this
thing up?

Thanks in advance.

Jeff Jackson
73 SIII 88

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 98 10:54:17 EST
Subject: Re: Unusual timing question

>.If I don't move the distributor housing, can I just change the points,
>condensor and rotor without adjusting the timing?

yup.

that's all!

Dave

------------------------------

Date: 2 Feb 1998 08:15:25 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: Re- Hub ID

While we're on the subject, my SIII has hubs I can't ID - they say "B - M". 
That's it.
They are actuated by rotating a cup which covers the whole hub.  

Any ideas?

Jeff Jackson
73 SIII 88

------------------------------

Subject: Re: rusting aluminium
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 98 13:53:34 +0100
From: Marc Rengers <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>

>My dear car "Rusty" has some white "rust" in her aluminium parts.
>What is the best approach to stop/neutralize and cure this?
>Regards,

Huub,

clean it up with sandpaper and dril the center out of it and use an 
aluminium welder to fill the hole again.
Be carefull with welding on the middle of the door sidepanels or any 
other big thin area, before you know it has more 'hobbels en duinen' than 
you want! on that. Because of the heat and tension story.

Succes.

Marc Rengers                mr@grant.media-gn.nl
Westeremden, Holland        
http://www.minerva.fk.hanze.nl/landrover/index.html
Tel: (+31) 0596-551334      Pager: (+31) 06-59111461

    #=========#                 #=========#         
    |_______|__\___             |_______|__\___     
    |  _    |   |_ |}           |  _    |   |_ |}   
    ""(_)"""""""(_)"            ""(_)"""""""(_)"
   1987 110"  300 TDi            1968  109"  2.25   
    diesel VS-GG-16           petrol unknown reg.     
was a StaWag (RH-12-PF)    soon with the 2.5 n/a diesel
    and 2.5 n/a diesel     ! rebuild already started !

also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner International (great magazine)

------------------------------

From: "ASFCO" <ASFCO@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Looking for part
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 98 08:05:14 PST

Not really a big deal but I know there is one of these out there somewher=
e....
I am looking for the plate that attaches to the wiper motor cover on the =
left side of the dash it reads:
(L/R Logo)
IMPORTANT
1. Tyre life will be reduced if used .....
2. when this vehicle....
3.when snow plowing...

anyone have one of these?? Must be in VG condition
Thanks
Rgds
Steve

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 98 10:52:44 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Electric fuel pump

>Do you know your spare works?  Is it the right size?  do you have all the
>parts?  Is it stored properly?

>If so, you'll rupture the diaphram on install...

never had that problem (ruptured diaphragm) before.
Spare was bought new when i first got the truck, haven't needed it yet.
Figured if it did go out I wouldn't want to rebuild one on the road..

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 09:15:29 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Removing Tape and Moisture Control

>I removed the grey carpeting in the back of my truck (on the wheelboxes, etc.)
>and it was held down with long strips of double sided sticky tape, which I'm
>now trying to get off. So far, I've tried a bottle called "GooGone" or
>"GoopGone" and Bug'N'Tar Remover, both of which turn the lines into a jelly
>which then smears everywhere... This stuff is hard to get off.
>Any ideas on lifting this tape goop?

Believe it or not we used to use WD-40 to get the goop off of office
equipment after removing company logo stickers. It does take a little time
and a lot of rubbing but it did work well. It also turns the goo to a jelly
which we would wipe off with a dry cloth and the apply some more WD and
finish up what was left.

Keith
1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 17:52:29 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Thermostat

A response from the digest to my question " is there a generic thermostat
available in the US ? "  was they are sold at Parts America. So acting upon
this advise I visited said establishment and purchased Stant part # 65358
Superstat. The parts book does not list Land Rover, but it does list the
Rover P4 range, one of which was fitted with the 4 cyl Land Rover engine.
The part  fits, it was necessary on my engine to fit a large O ring on top
to fill up the gap in the top hat piece of the thermostat housing. The parts
book list 3 alternatives at differnent price levels. The Superstat was $4.50
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: GNBull3@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 13:21:38 EST
Subject: Re:  Unusual timing question

>I have a timing mark on the front cover
>but when I started to examine the crank pulley, I found out it has no marks
on
>it

>If I don't move the distributor housing, can I just change the points,
>condensor and rotor without adjusting the timing?

Nate,
	Assuming your timing is correct, you could just change the points etc without
adjusting the timing. However, the timing won't be exactly the same due to
wear on the points etc. Ironically, it will be closer to the original timing
of the vehicle when new points were installed, assuming the timing was last
set right after new points were installed. However, this is more in theory
than in practice and chances are your timing will not be spot on although it
may be close. At some point or another, you are going to have to check your
timing so you might as well sort out your TDC marks. Better to do it now than
somewhere in the boonies, plus this is the only way to know for sure what your
timing is set at. 

	If your engine is a SII, then the flywheel should have marks on it and you
shouldn't have the timing pointer on the front cover. Somebody may have retro
fitted a later style timing pointer. To check for it, first check the pulley
very closely. There is only one little notch in the pulley and its easy to
miss. The timing mark has a way of hiding under lots of grunge so clean the
pulley with a scotch brite pad soaked with gasoline or brake cleaner. The
pointer has the actual timing marks on it. There are three "points" The point
all the way to the left (if you are facing the engine) is TDC and the others
are each 3 degrees apart. On late SIII (post 1980) engines, there is a pointer
with one "point" and five marks on the pulley. Again, you often have to clean
the pulley thoroughly to find these as the marks are shallow and fill up with
grunge
If you can't find the notch in the pulley, open the cover of your flywheel
housing and make sure the pointer is there. I personally view the timing from
the engine bay which is a bit awkward but works for me. Start the engine and
look for the marks with a timing light. If you don't see them, then chances
are you have a later flywheel. 

However, not all is lost. First take off the dist cap and note where the
number one spark plug cable enters. Next remove all the spark plugs (this
makes turning over the engine easier). Now take a long piece of stiff wire and
put it in the number one cylinder spark plug hole. Make sure it is long enough
so that it does not fall all the way in even when the piston is at the end of
its downward stroke. Slowly turn the motor over. The wire will go up and down
twice on every revolution. When the wire has gone all the way up and is just
about to go down again, and the rotor is pointing to where the number one
cylinder wire is, you are at TDC. It helps to turn the motor over a few times
to get a feel for the exact moment when the piston is at TDC. When you get the
motor at TDC, you can then put a notch in the pulley and you're done. Now you
can set the timing with a timing light or staticly. Good luck!

Regards,
George Bull
 

------------------------------

From: Kevin Sellitti <Kevinsel@gte.net>
Subject: RE: imports ( Flame-thrower at the Ready)
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 19:49:24 -0500

       >Tom now leans over reaching for his hard hat and flame proof =
apparel
>Cheers.... Tom Dixon
You can put away the Nomex Suit Tom.
	I agree that large scale importing is an issue. But here the U.S. the =
small number of vehicles that would get imported is I'm sure very low. I =
don't think we would make a dent in the big three or any of the import =
car manufacturers. This simple fact of the matter is that most U.S. =
citizens don't want anything special or anything that resembles a car at =
all. Most want the equivalent of their living room on wheels (A Lazy Boy =
with a steering wheel). They have no use for Land Rovers or other =
oddball cars.

>not only that we also import all the soil born
>bugs, grubs and other nasties that come with the vehicles.

I used to import used construction equipment form Japan (bulldozers, =
Loaders,ETC). Customs used to make us soak them with pesticides to kill =
the nematodes, grubs, and other nasties. After the pesticide sat for 48 =
hours they were steam cleaned from top to bottom before Customs would =
release them. It worked out to about $75.00 per piece to treat them. I =
would gladly pay that to bring in a vehicle.

I never flame without the full support of the U.N. Security Council : )

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 23:07:59 -0500
From: john taylor <jht@easynet.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Transmission Problems

Hi Peter

With the problem you have with the working - not working reverse gear it is
almost certainly the gear which has slid off the bronze bushing and then
found it's way back on. Prognosis - terminal eventually.  
After a similar occurence I now avoid any heavy duty work in reverse as pressure
for any period of time can squeeze the lube out from the bush, it heats up
and the gear falls off it.
A friend of mine imported a rebuilt gearbox (Series III) from Steve Parker
Land Rovers, Rochdale, Lancs., England, they advertise in Land Rover
International. It arrived on the Wednesday, got installed on Thursday and on
the Friday we drove off to Yellowstone and other places well west of
Cambridge, Ontario in the two weeks following. We did about 4000 miles I
think and there was no problem with the box and it is still fine, 6 months
later. My wife hasn't been the same since though.
The total cost with shipping was around 1000 Canadian though with the recent
drop in value of the Can $ it may be a bit more. It sounds to me like the
way to go as doing a rebuild set me back 6 or 7 hundred and that was 8 years
ago on my Series II.
If the rest of the box is fine then "just" replacing the reverse gear is
cheap on the wallet and if you know what you are doing takes about 24 beers.
No micrometer needed. It is also a Landy right of passage though you will
have the removable cross member on the MOD truck which makes the whole thing
a doddle almost.

Yours John Taylor
S IIa / chev v6 bastard
If you are not confused you don't know what's going on.

------------------------------

From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: Land Rover Parts Sale
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 14:06:00 +1100 

Greetings all, the following may or may not be of interest.
Spotted an ad in Saturdays paper. Seems the New Zealand Army is selling
off a whole heap of stuff, including "Land Rover, Unimog, Mercedes Benz
Automotive Parts". All being sold at auction on Sat 14 Feb, somewhere
near Wellington. I don't know any more details, but the ad goes on to
say 'full catalog available from Turners Auctions, on +64 4 568 5659
after Feb 5'. BTW, if you've blown the diff on your Scorpion Tank, or
need a few other parts for it, then this sale is definitely for you!
I can try to find out more, if any one wants to know, then email me
direct.
Richard, 1973 S3 SWB
Auckland (about 9hrs drive from Wellington), New Zealand

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 15:31:51 -0500 (EST)
From: nickf@co.wayne.in.us (Nick Fankhauser)
Subject: Ammeters and a simpler way

Hi-

I'm jumping into this ammeter discussion because I think there's a much
simpler way to change the range on an ammeter. You don't need to open it up.
I think I may have mentioned it in an earlier post, but here's the quick
re-hash:

To make a ammeter give you twice the range, you send half of the current
through it. You can do this by using a shunt resistor *on the outside* of
the meter. If you're looking at the inside of the meter, you will find that
there is already a shunt in there. You're just adding another one on the
outside. In the case of doubling the range, you simply measure the
resistance of the meter now, and then attach a resistor to the outside
across the terminals of equal resistance. To triple the range, attach a
resistor of half the meter's original resistance. 

I can through some formulas at you but this is east to intuit- think of the
current as if it were a stream of water- If the resistance outside the meter
is equal to the inside, the current is split evenly. If there is one half
the resistance on the outside, twice as much current flows around the meter
as through it. Simple stuff, and you can do it as your hands shake in fear
of the inevitable flaming.

Here's the only hard part- That resistor needs to be capable of carrying the
current, and high-wattage resistors are hard to come by. I did this by using
a chunk of nichrome wire, which is typically found in electric space
heaters. I had a dead one in the shop handy, so I just used an ohmeter to
find the reistance per inch, and chopped of an appropriate length.
Alternately, I'm sure that Newark Eletronics, which seems to have local
branches all over can sell you a high-watt resistor. 

Regarding wire size- I think ajr is missing something here-  there is not a
13.8 volt potential across the ammeter terminals unless something is
seriously wrong, so the wattage reference is moot. The ammeter is not the
load, but (hopefully) a conductor with a vane next to it noting how much
current goes by. I think you can probably get away with 12 guage wire, but
only because it is well exposed to dissipate heat. the conclusion is OK, but
the reasoning doesn't square with what I learned in physics. 

-NickF

___________________________________________________________________
Nick Fankhauser      | http://www.co.wayne.in.us/wayneco
nickf@co.wayne.in.us | http://www.infocom.com/~nickf

------------------------------

From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: Land Rover Parts Sale
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 09:30:00 +1100 

Greetings all, the following may or may not be of interest.
Spotted an ad in Saturdays paper. Seems the New Zealand Army is selling
off a whole heap of stuff, including "Land Rover, Unimog, Mercedes Benz
Automotive Parts". All being sold at auction on Sat 14 Feb, somewhere
near Wellington. I don't know any more details, but the ad goes on to
say 'full catalog available from Turners Auctions, on +64 4 568 5659
after Feb 5'. BTW, if you've blown the diff on your Scorpion Tank, or
need a few other parts for it, then this sale is definitely for you!
I can try to find out more, if any one wants to know, then email me
direct.
Richard, 1973 S3 SWB
Auckland (about 9hrs drive from Wellington), New Zealand

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 16:59:32 -0500 (EST)
From: PETER KASKAN <PKASKAN@clarku.edu>
Subject: Re: Transmission Problems

My zip code might be one of two places, at my parents house 01520, or at my

------------------------------

From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 17:39:25 EST
Subject: Re: Removing Tape and Moisture Control

In a message dated 98-01-31 19:07:53 EST, you write:

<< I know there are rubber mats (from RN, etc.) for the front and middle of
the
 110, but I haven't yet seen one for the rear area. The other item I'd like to
 change from carpeting to rubber or something impervious to water would be the
 trans tunnel cover at the gearshift. ROW D90s that aren't SW/County trim have
 them, I think. Or just go without, it isn't a big deal to me.  >>

I found some stuff at a local flea mkt called "fatigue mats".  They are blace
closed-cell synthetic rubber about 1/2" thick.  Come in 3'x4' and  3.5' x 5'.
Won't absorb water but will absorb sound (if that's an issue).  Sorta cheap
but not real cheap.n  Spray contact on the mats holds them in place (like
yellow sticky notes) so you can pull them up without a lot of residue.

I painted my trans tunnel and sprayed undercoat on underside for sound
deadening.  Used cut to shape fatigue mats for floor mats.

Just an idea.

Ed Bailey
66 SIIa 88
Somewhere in East Tennessee

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 22:59:16 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: importing

> >From my reading of the Land Rover web site, as well as the U.S.
> Customs Service site, it appears that if I get a 1973 or earlier
> with a diesel engine I should be able to bring it in and register it
> without any problems.   Has anyone on the list actually done this?

I help a friend import a '71 LR from Canada into Michigan two years ago
under the "25 year" rule without any problems after we pointed out the
relevant paragraph on the customs form to the customs inspector.
Gasoline engines are okay under the 25 year rule as well as diesels.
Some states (such as CA) have regs which may inhibit registering a newer
than '68 gasoline engined vehicle which doesn't meet emission regs. Note
that this is a state, not federal, issue.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 13:58:24 EST
Subject: Anyone using Trac Edge tires on the list?

Is there anyone using BFG Trac Edges on the list? I was offered a set of 4
(mounted & balanced) for $100/tire and was wondering if it is a reasonable
tire to roll the truck on. I originally called the dealer looking for a set of
muds, but he told me he had these on the rack in 245/75R16, and that they were
virtually new as they came OEM on some Chevys and these were take-offs when an
owner upgraded his new truck.

Any opinions on this tire?

pat
93  "on slicks" 110

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 20:01:53 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: rusting aluminium

'hobbels en duinen'???????? Is this a serious condition?

Marc Rengers wrote:
> >My dear car "Rusty" has some white "rust" in her aluminium parts.
> >What is the best approach to stop/neutralize and cure this?
> >Regards,
> Huub,
> clean it up with sandpaper and dril the center out of it and use an
> aluminium welder to fill the hole again.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 30 lines)]
>     and 2.5 n/a diesel     ! rebuild already started !
> also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner International (great magazine)

-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 12:50:29 EST
Subject: Re: OVLR Dork Tari Award (was Towball Award)

(sorry, Cirvin, but prices have been dropping a bit)

No worries, John, with the way elections have been going, Algore will probably
get the office for himself, and before 'ya know it, up they go again (prices,
that is)

Kinda like having a secret bank account!

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 11:15:47 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Subject: Re: importing

At 10:59 PM 2/1/98 -0500, David Cockey wrote:
:Some states (such as CA) have regs which may inhibit registering a newer
:than '68 gasoline engined vehicle which doesn't meet emission regs. Note
:that this is a state, not federal, issue.

 This year 1973 and older gasoline vehicles are exempt from California's
 CARB/SMOG rules.  Then in 2003 we will have a rolling 30 year expiry.

-Michael

 Michael Carradine     ___,_\__                          www.landrover.net
 Architect             [_______]           50-80, 72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers
 510-988-0900 _______.._(o)_.(o)__..o^^  POBox 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597
    

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 98 14:10:34 EST
Subject: Re: Re- Hub ID

>>While we're on the subject, my SIII has hubs I can't ID - they say "B - M". 

Bearmach. My friend Ron has those. They're always getting stuck.
Pure shite if you ask me. Get yourself some Warns.

later
Dave

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 17:03:05 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Come back major, all is forgiven!

Has the major gone dead - no mail today?

suppose I'd better play with the car instead...

 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 06:15:25 -0500
Subject: Re: OVLR Dork Tari Award

ZIppy suggests that a Freeloader (er, Freelander) would be the sure winner
at the DorkTari competition.

I completely agree, but frankly even snakes don't stoop that low. Yack!

No, John and I have agreed to fight this on a level Series plaing field.
Anyone dumb enough to buy a Freeloader deserves to be pitied, not scorned.
These are the same folks who bought Reliant Robins and thought they ere
getting a real car, or its spiritual cousin in 1950s drag, the Nash
Metropolitain.

Tacky is one thing - dumb is another.

     aj"Deliberate tacky is funny - dumb is pitiable"r

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: 1993 Land Rover Defender 110
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 20:44:11 +1100

Andy Dane wrote:

>I am selling my 1993 Land Rover Defender 110  Asking price
>is $44,000.

Wow.  That equates to $66,000 Aussie dollars.  They must be rare over there.
A new one (albeit only in Tdi format Down Under) costs A$41,500 (US$27,800).

A$66,000 would buy me a BMW Z3 1.9 or a top of the line Ford Exploder (and
leave $6,000 to put into goodies for it e.g new suspension), the dearest
Discovery with even more money to spend on accessories or, with A$13,000
more, I could buy the new "budget model" Range Rover 4.0.

But then, it would also buy nearly 2 new 110's in Australia.

Regards,

Ron Beckett

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 14:35:59 -0500
From: "Robert A. Virzi" <rvirzi@gte.com>
Subject: Joke: 10 best tools

I saw this in rec.autos.tech.something-or-other and the relevance to LR
products struck me, although they are not mentioned by name.  Here you go,
enjoy!		-Bob

> -----
> THE TEN BEST TOOLS OF ALL TIME
> By J. William Lam, Stockton, CA
> Forget the Snap-On Tools truck; it's never there when you need it.
> Besides,there are only ten things in this world you need to fix any car,

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 83 lines)]
> a pinch, of course, but does a lousy job of it).
> 10. A Quarter and a Phone Booth:        See #1 above.

GTE Labs, MS-38            rvirzi@gte.com         voice: +1.781.466.2881
40 Sylvan Rd                                        fax: +1.781.466.4035
Waltham, MA, USA  02254

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 14:32:18 EST
Subject: Re: Unusual timing question

In a message dated 2/2/98 1:36:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, GNBull3@aol.com
writes:

<< Good luck!
 
 Regards,
 George Bull >>

Wow,
Thanks George!  I rarely print out email but this one goes in the Rover File.
I'm going to try the wire in the #1 cylinder trick and mark the crank pulley.
(Although I'll try looking for the flywheel marks.)  

I had wondered if the position of the valves (with the cover off) would tell
when the 1 cylinder was TDC, but this way is much more direct.

Thanks again
Nate

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 21:35:56 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Joke: 10 best tools

Robert A. Virzi wrote:

> I saw this in rec.autos.tech.something-or-other and the relevance to LR
> products struck me, although they are not mentioned by name.  Here you go,
> enjoy!          -Bob
> > -----
> > THE TEN BEST TOOLS OF ALL TIME
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 83 lines)]
> > a pinch, of course, but does a lousy job of it).
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> 40 Sylvan Rd                                        fax: +1.781.466.4035
> Waltham, MA, USA  02254

OK, so what's the puncline?

Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin, your online African adventure specialists
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za & http://AfricanAdrenalin.com
into Africa adventures, your African adventure webzine
http://Adventures.co.za

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 21:35:41 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Joke: 10 best tools

Robert A. Virzi wrote:

> I saw this in rec.autos.tech.something-or-other and the relevance to LR
> products struck me, although they are not mentioned by name.  Here you go,
> enjoy!          -Bob
> > -----
> > THE TEN BEST TOOLS OF ALL TIME
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 83 lines)]
> > a pinch, of course, but does a lousy job of it).
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> 40 Sylvan Rd                                        fax: +1.781.466.4035
> Waltham, MA, USA  02254

OK, so waht's the puncline?

Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin, your online African adventure specialists
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za & http://AfricanAdrenalin.com
into Africa adventures, your African adventure webzine
http://Adventures.co.za

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Unusual timing question
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 11:39:23 -0800

Make sure that the piston is at TDC ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE and not
the exhaust stroke...or you'll wonder why your timings off by 360 deg!

Paul.

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	NADdMD@aol.com [SMTP:NADdMD@aol.com]
>Sent:	Monday, February 02, 1998 11:32 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Re: Unusual timing question

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)]
>Thanks again
>Nate

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 14:54:08 -0500
From: "Robert A. Virzi" <rvirzi@gte.com>
Subject: Joke: 10 best tools

Arrrrgh!  Damn digester.  Here it is readable.

-----

THE TEN BEST TOOLS OF ALL TIME

By J. William Lam, Stockton, CA

Forget the Snap-On Tools truck; it's never there when you need it.
Besides,there are only ten things in this world you need to fix any car,
any place, any time.

1.  Duct Tape: Not just a tool, a veritable Swiss Army knife in stickum
and plastic.  It's safety wire, body material, radiator hose,
upholstery, insulation, tow rope, and more in one easy-to-carry
package. Sure, there's a prejudice surrounding duct tape in concourse
competitions, but in the real world everything from Le Mans-winning
Porsches to Atlas rockets uses it by the yard.  The only
thing that can get you out of more scrapes is a quarter and a phone
booth.

2.  Vice-Grips:  Equally adept as a wrench, hammer, pliers, bailing wire
twister, breaker-off of frozen bolts, and wiggle-it-till-it-falls off
tool.  The heavy artillery of your toolbox, Vice Grips are the only tool
designed expressly to fix things screwed up beyond repair.

3. Spray Lubricants: A considerably cheaper alternative to new doors,
alternators, and other squeaky items.  Slicker than pig phlegm.
Repeated soakings of WD-40 will allow the main hull bolts of the Andrea
Dorea to be removed by hand. Strangely enough, an integral part of these
sprays is the infamous little red tube that flies out of the
nozzle if you look at it cross-eyed, one of the ten worst tools of all
time.

4. Margarine Tubs With Clear Lids: If you spend all your time under the
hood looking for a frendle pin that caromed off the peedle valve when
you knocked both off the air cleaner, it's because you eat
butter.  Real mechanics consume pounds of tasteless vegetable oil
replicas, just so they can use the empty tubs for parts containers
afterward.  (Some, of course, chuck the butter-colored goo altogetheror
use it to repack wheel bearings.) Unlike air cleaners and radiator lips,
margarine tubs aren't connected by a time/space wormhole to the Parallel
Universe of Lost Frendle Pins.

5. Big Rock At The Side Of The Road: Block up a tire.  Smack corroded
battery terminals.  Pound out a dent.  Bop nosy know-it-all types on the
noodle.  Scientists have yet to develop a hammer that packs the raw
banging power of granite or limestone. This is the only tool with which
a "made in India" emblem is not synonymous with the user's maiming.

6. Plastic Zip Ties: After twenty years of lashing down stray hoses and
wires with old bread ties, some genius brought a slightly slicked up
version to the auto parts market. Fifteen zip ties can transform a
hulking mass of amateur-quality rewiring from a working model of the
Brazilian rain forest into something remotely resembling a wiring
harness.  Of course, it works both ways. When buying used cars,
subtract $100.00 for each zip tie under the hood.

7. Ridiculously Large Standard Screwdriver With Lifetime Guarantee:
Let's admit it. There's nothing better for prying, chiseling, lifting,
breaking, splitting, or mutilating than a huge flat-bladed
screwdriver, particularly when wielded with gusto and a big hammer.
This is also the tool of choice for oil filters so insanely located they
can only be removed by driving a stake in one side and out the
other. If you break the screwdriver - and you will, just like Dad or
your shop teacher said- who cares?  It's guaranteed.

8.  Bailing Wire:  Commonly known as MG muffler brackets, bailing wire
holds anything that's too hot for tape or ties. Like duct tape, it's not
recommended for concourse contenders since it works so well you'll never
replace it with the right thing again.  Bailing wire is a sentimental
favorite in some circles, particularly with the MG, Triumph, and
flathead Ford set.

9.  Bonking Stick:  This monstrous tuning fork with devilishly pointy
ends is technically known as a tie-rod-end separator, but how often do
you separate tie-ends?  Once every decade, if you're lucky. Other than
medieval combat, its real use is the all purpose application of undue
force, not unlike that of the huge flat-bladed screwdriver.  Nature
doesn't know the bent metal panel or frozen exhaust pipe that can stand
up to a good bonkingstick. (Can also be used to separate tie-rod-ends in
a pinch, of course, but does a lousy job of it).

10. A Quarter and a Phone Booth:        See #1 above.

GTE Labs, MS-38            rvirzi@gte.com         voice: +1.781.466.2881
40 Sylvan Rd                                        fax: +1.781.466.4035
Waltham, MA, USA  02254

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 18:26:22 -0600
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: re subscribing

subscribe car4doc@concentric.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 14:56:17 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: The Great Diapragm Issue...

If Dave had a problem with a punctured diapragm, he'd be pushing a baby 
pram and not his Land Rover.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 14:42:03 EST
Subject: Re: Unusual timing question

In a message dated 2/2/98 2:39:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, Paul_Quin@pml.com
writes:

<< Make sure that the piston is at TDC ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE and not
 the exhaust stroke...or you'll wonder why your timings off by 360 deg!
  >>

Should be increased air pressure during compression, so a finger over the hole
should tell the story. : )

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 15:02:55 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Anyone using Trac Edge tires on the list?

Mike Tompkins (mmglass@ix.netcom.com) has them on his 109 coiler hybrid. 
They came with the truck when he bought it in the UK, so I don't know if 
this price you quote from Joe Tireman is reasonable. Mike can probably 
testify as to their performance. I'll stick with BFG AT.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: "Paul" <P.M.A.Snoek@net.HCC.nl>
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 21:15:44 +0000
Subject: Re: rusting aluminium

> 'hobbels en duinen'???????? Is this a serious condition?

> -- 
> Adrian Redmond

Absolutely !! Bumps and Dune's.     8^)

P.M.A. Snoek
the Netherlands
D90 Soft-top 2,5TD 1990
Email: P.M.A.Snoek@net.HCC.nl
URL: http://web.inter.NL.net/hcc/P.M.A.Snoek/

------------------------------

From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 15:35:25 EST
Subject:  ARB airlockers?????????

I am looking for fr/rear lockers for the D-90 , any ideas on where to get the
best price?
Thanks in Advance,
Rick

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 18:20:17 EST
Subject: Valve Clearance Question

Hi all,

When folks say, don't set the valves too tight, err on the loose side, does
that mean with a loose .010 or a tight .010?

Thinking about it, if the .010 is on the loose side, the valve will open late
and close early (or so it seems) but I'm not sure.

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 15:51:14 -0500
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: Re: Thermostat

Bill,

Glad to hear you got it going.  The part I had recommended at Parts America was
the one which should fit without an O-ring. It is an exact replacement for the
original Land Rover thermostat.  I had never seen them before in a generic parts
store. The part number on the thermostat was not however listed as fitting any
Rover products in the Stant listing.  Maybe it was just some kind of fluke they
had them. The price listed was about twice the other "normal" thermostats.

Anyway, I ran with the generic GM thermostat and a O-ring for many years with no
problem in my series III, other than a percieved reduction in flow of heat from
the heater during winter.    In summer, the heater worked fine.

Garret Scott
Knoxville, TN

William L. Leacock wrote:

> A response from the digest to my question " is there a generic thermostat
> available in the US ? "  was they are sold at Parts America. So acting upon
> this advise I visited said establishment and purchased Stant part # 65358
> Superstat. The parts book does not list Land Rover, but it does list the
> Rover P4 range, one of which was fitted with the 4 cyl Land Rover engine.
> The part  fits, it was necessary on my engine to fit a large O ring on top
> to fill up the gap in the top hat piece of the thermostat housing. The parts
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
>  88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 14:46:34 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: Re: Valve Clearance Question

> When folks say, don't set the valves too tight, err on the loose side, does
> that mean with a loose .010 or a tight .010?

It means don't set them at 0.09 or 0.11! Or am I misreading your question?

> Thinking about it, if the .010 is on the loose side, the valve will open late
> and close early (or so it seems) but I'm not sure.

If loose, the valve will indeed open late and close early.
Increasing valve clearance 
will get you a bit more torque at the expense of top end power in general.
Too much and you will lose power, and get an awful clattering noise.

They say err on the loose side probably because you can break a valve, cam,
or bend a push rod if the motor overheats.

Marcus
> Nate
> and close early (or so it seems) but I'm not sure.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 15:59:07 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Valve Clearance Question

Nate, test the valve clearance using the go/no-go method. Use the .010 
gauge to set the clearance, then see if a fatter .012 feeler guage will 
go in the gap. If yes, then readjust. Test for tightness with a .008.
Always use the three guage method for the most accurate setting. The Wing 
really gets persnickity if the gap is too fat.
If you do this often enough, you can pretty much tell by how much "pull" 
it takes to remove the feeler guage as to whether you've got the 
adjustment right or not.
As for personal valve adjustment philosophy, I just do what the designers 
tell me, and try not to second-guess them.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: JB Kropp <JB@flycast.com>
Subject: Need help
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 11:20:54 -0800

So I looked at a Series IIA rover this past weekend and need some help
on the mechanics.  Here are a couple questions I have and hopefully can
be addressed:

1.	1st and reverse are "straight" cut gears.  When I was in first,
it was very loud.  Almost sounded like it was grinding.  Is this normal?
I actually never started in 1st but in second.  He told me I never
needed to start in 1st, sounds scketchy.

2.	2nd gear is not synchronized.  Is it possible to get a 2nd gear
synchroed.  I think series III have synchronized gear boxes.

3.	When the rover was in idle, the oil pressure gauged read about
40.  But when it was running it was near 50-55.   I know the ideal
pressure should be around 20, is 40 too high?

4.	How do you tell when the springs are shot?  This rover was
slightly leaning to the right.  The guy selling it says "ever rover
leans"   I thought it was a bad spring and it also has a lot of surface
rust.

5.	It also had loose steering.  Is it hard to get it tight?  He
said it was because it hasn't been driven in a while, but I thought it
needed some work.

6.	The speedometer wasn't reading the speed right.  It was all over
the place.  Is it a matter of getting a new cable or does the entire
thing have to be replaced?
	 
7.	How do you tell if the brakes are shot?

Other than that, the rig is better nice.  Straight body panels, runs
very nice, interior is perfect, heater and wipers work great, no rust on
the frame, and no pitting on the swivel balls, however it needs some
work.  By my questions above, does it sound like I am getting into a
mess?

I appreciate all the help,
JB

 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 16:14:40 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Anyone using Trac Edge tires on the list?

Hi Pat...

 I have a set of TracEdges on my Series II and although in Canada $100/tire
would be a great price for them I'm not sure how good that is in the US. I
think I paid $145.00 CDN for mine. I am quite satisfied with them on my
truck, they are fairly quite on tarmac and so far been great off-road (ie.
for the off-roading that I have done with OVLR I haven't been stuck yet). I
have 7.50 x 16 on mine and they look great.

Keith
1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa

>Is there anyone using BFG Trac Edges on the list? I was offered a set of 4
>(mounted & balanced) for $100/tire and was wondering if it is a reasonable
>tire to roll the truck on. I originally called the dealer looking for a set of
>muds, but he told me he had these on the rack in 245/75R16, and that they were
>virtually new as they came OEM on some Chevys and these were take-offs when an
>owner upgraded his new truck.
>Any opinions on this tire?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>pat
>93  "on slicks" 110

------------------------------

From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 16:20:08 EST
Subject: Re: Need help

What price?   sounds ok to me, depending on $ .  gotta remember it`s not
"new".
RGDS, Rick
`63 SIIa 88''
`94 D-90 soft top
`96 Disco  SD

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Need help
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 13:33:33 -0800

JB needs help:

"So I looked at a Series IIA rover this past weekend and need some help
on the mechanics.  Here are a couple questions I have and hopefully can
be addressed:"

Sound like a nice truck to me.

You will need to use first gear at some point--starting on hills or
off-roading etc.  First gear definitely should have some 'bearing whine'
but it should sound like it is grinding.

If you want syncro'd 2nd gear, you'll have to swap in a Series III
transmission.  I don't think that the Series II box is upgradable.
Anybody?

The only Rover that I've seen sitting level on it's springs was parked
on a hill :-)

The steering play is adjustable to a point.  My '61 Landy's steering is
reasonably tight and responsive.

Speedometers are notorious for being intermittent or worse.  usually an
easy fix with a new cable or just some adjustment at either end of the
cable.

To check the brakes properly, you have to pull the wheels and drums off
and look for leaks, wear, etc.

If you're serious about buying the car, consider taking it to a shop for
a pre-purchase check.  But keep in mind that it is a Land Rover...

Paul.
Victoria, BC  Canada

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	JB Kropp [SMTP:JB@flycast.com]
>Sent:	Sunday, February 01, 1998 11:21 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Need help

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 53 lines)]
>I appreciate all the help,
>JB

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Need help
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 13:37:08 -0800

Oops, should proof read a little closer:

You will need to use first gear at some point--starting on hills or
off-roading etc.  First gear definitely should have some 'bearing whine'
but it should sound NOT like it is grinding.
                            ^^^^^^
>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Paul Quin 
>Sent:	Monday, February 02, 1998 1:34 PM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	RE: Need help

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 56 lines)]
>>I appreciate all the help,
>>JB

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 13:36:56 -0800
From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@kirkwood-desk.fm.intel.com>
Subject: Re: Need help

At 11:20 AM 2/1/98 -0800, JB Kropp wrote:
>So I looked at a Series IIA rover this past weekend and need some help
>on the mechanics.  Here are a couple questions I have and hopefully can
>be addressed:
>1.	1st and reverse are "straight" cut gears.  When I was in first,
>it was very loud.  Almost sounded like it was grinding.  Is this normal?

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>I actually never started in 1st but in second.  He told me I never
>needed to start in 1st, sounds scketchy.

1st doesn't get you very far before you have to shift. An early shift is
necessary because they are not synchroed. If you go to fast before shifting
you will definitely grind. :>)  Many don't start in 1st.

>2.	2nd gear is not synchronized.  Is it possible to get a 2nd gear
>synchroed.  I think series III have synchronized gear boxes.
>be addressed:

As long as you don't down shift into 1st or second you are ok. 

>3.	When the rover was in idle, the oil pressure gauged read about
>40.  But when it was running it was near 50-55.   I know the ideal
>pressure should be around 20, is 40 too high?
>1.	1st and reverse are "straight" cut gears.  When I was in first,

This is exactly how mine reads. I don't know if it is good or bad.

>4.	How do you tell when the springs are shot?  This rover was
>slightly leaning to the right.  The guy selling it says "ever rover
>leans"   I thought it was a bad spring and it also has a lot of surface
>rust.
>it was very loud.  Almost sounded like it was grinding.  Is this normal?

Every rover leans and leaks. If it doesn't lean the chassis is on the spring
stops probably. If it doesn't leak, there are no fluids where they should be.
:>))) Look at the springs: they are shot if they are relatively flat, or if
each lower leaf is worn into the above leaf at the end of the lower leaf.

>5.	It also had loose steering.  Is it hard to get it tight?  He
>said it was because it hasn't been driven in a while, but I thought it
>needed some work.
>rust.

I wouldn't believe him on the cause not being driven in a while. Steering
often is a problem on Rovers. There are lots of things to go wrong here.

>6.	The speedometer wasn't reading the speed right.  It was all over
>the place.  Is it a matter of getting a new cable or does the entire
>thing have to be replaced?
>rust.

Many speedos don't read correctly and have the problem you are having. It
depends on where the problem is: could be where the speedo connects into the
tranny, or it is binding along its length, or it is a problem as it connects
into the indicator.
>	 
>7.	How do you tell if the brakes are shot?

Can you stop? Yes, they are ok, if you can't stop, they need replacing.
Seriously, if you have a double pump or the pedal goes to the floor, you
have a problem (which can generally be fixed parts are available).

>Other than that, the rig is better nice.  Straight body panels, runs
>very nice, interior is perfect, heater and wipers work great, no rust on
>the frame, and no pitting on the swivel balls, however it needs some
>work.  By my questions above, does it sound like I am getting into a
>mess?

Not to great a mess and no more than most of us.

Clayton

>I appreciate all the help,
>JB
>the frame, and no pitting on the swivel balls, however it needs some
>work.  By my questions above, does it sound like I am getting into a
>mess?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 16:34:26 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Need help

Hi JB....

The only Land Rover I have had experience with has been my little yellow 88
I have now but I will take a stab at answering your questions...

>1.	1st and reverse are "straight" cut gears.  When I was in first,
>it was very loud.  Almost sounded like it was grinding.  Is this normal?
>I actually never started in 1st but in second.  He told me I never
>needed to start in 1st, sounds scketchy.

I start mine in first all the time and it makes no weird noises or grinding
sounds so I would figure that there is something wrong in the box. I don't
know if it would be something really bad or not but grinding is never a good
thing in my book.

>2.	2nd gear is not synchronized.  Is it possible to get a 2nd gear
>synchroed.  I think series III have synchronized gear boxes.
>I actually never started in 1st but in second.  He told me I never
>needed to start in 1st, sounds scketchy.

The Series III's do have an all syncro box but I have been told that they
are not as strong as the II/IIA boxes. Also putting on in an older LR
requires some modifications as it is not a direct bolt on (I think).

>3.	When the rover was in idle, the oil pressure gauged read about
>40.  But when it was running it was near 50-55.   I know the ideal
>pressure should be around 20, is 40 too high?
>needed to start in 1st, sounds scketchy.

The pressure at idle of 40 lbs sounds real good to me. With my old engine it
would drop to about 5 or 10 lbs. and I was crying alot about it (right
Dixon). Now with the new engine (Thanks again Steve) the pressure is about
40 at idle and 60-65 at speed.

>4.	How do you tell when the springs are shot?  This rover was
>slightly leaning to the right.  The guy selling it says "ever rover
>leans"   I thought it was a bad spring and it also has a lot of surface
>rust.

Yes, most series LR do lean to one side so he isn't feeding you a crock
here. The best way I would figure to check the springs would be to check the
height against the factory specs. Of course some may say that if you don't
have any broken leaves then don't worry about it.

>5.	It also had loose steering.  Is it hard to get it tight?  He
>said it was because it hasn't been driven in a while, but I thought it
>needed some work.

Hmmm... Don't know much about this one, but I think that there is an
adjustment that can be made. Some of the more experienced listers would
better answer this one.

>6.	The speedometer wasn't reading the speed right.  It was all over
>the place.  Is it a matter of getting a new cable or does the entire
>thing have to be replaced?
>rust.

This is the nut behind the driveshaft at the end of the gearbox. Not a big
deal to fix that problem (although mine have the same trouble and I have
procrastinating and haven't done it yet.)

>	 
>7.	How do you tell if the brakes are shot?
>thing have to be replaced?

The only way to tell is to take the drums off and have a look. Other than
that if you have firm pedal on the first pump and it stops decently then
your lucky.

>Other than that, the rig is better nice.  Straight body panels, runs
>very nice, interior is perfect, heater and wipers work great, no rust on
>the frame, and no pitting on the swivel balls, however it needs some
>work.  By my questions above, does it sound like I am getting into a
>mess?

The gearbox would worry me a bit. I would try driving it in low range also
just to check that out also but every thing else sounds pretty easy to fix.
I guess it would come down to asking price and how much you can afford.

>I appreciate all the help,
>JB
>the frame, and no pitting on the swivel balls, however it needs some
>work.  By my questions above, does it sound like I am getting into a

Good luck

Keith
1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 98 16:48:53 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Unusual timing question

>Should be increased air pressure during compression, so a finger over the hole
>should tell the story. : )

eastwoods sells a little gadget that's basically a whistle with spark plug 
threads on one end. screw it in, dial the crank to tdc, and it whistles to let 
you know that you're at tdc.
just don't let anyone catch you using it, or you'll be the laughing stock of the
neighborhood...

whistles are for teapots and rape victims
later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Subject: Re: 1993 Land Rover Defender 110
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 12:22:41 -0700

Dear Ron,

The inequity of life!

We scoff at Ford Explorers as "Yupi Mall Crawlers" and they only fetch in
the low K20s here.

While we pine for affordable Defender class Landys'. 
It seems that being down-under isn't all that's backwards?

BMW z3's are onl\y in the k29 to k30 range...While k44 for a D110 is low
for the most part. They started out in '93 at around k39. Now they can get
as much as k48 for really clean low mileage ones.

How'bout I send you one of our cheapy's and you send me one of yours?

Only one stipulation...I get to come pick mine up down there...That way I
can hit a few waves while I wait for the export visa!

Your's
John Wood 

----------
> From: Ron Beckett <hillman@bigpond.com>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: 1993 Land Rover Defender 110
> Date: Monday, February 02, 1998 2:44 AM
> Andy Dane wrote:

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> >is $44,000.
> Wow.  That equates to $66,000 Aussie dollars.  They must be rare over
there.
> A new one (albeit only in Tdi format Down Under) costs A$41,500
(US$27,800).
> A$66,000 would buy me a BMW Z3 1.9 or a top of the line Ford Exploder
(and
> leave $6,000 to put into goodies for it e.g new suspension), the dearest
> Discovery with even more money to spend on accessories or, with A$13,000
> more, I could buy the new "budget model" Range Rover 4.0.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> Regards,
> Ron Beckett

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Subject: Re: ARB airlockers?????????
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 12:25:02 -0700

Rick,

Two options. 

1) Try ARB direct. sometimes if you can find a friend who wants a set or
have a friend that owns a garage he can get a demo set or you can get a
manufacture discount.

2) Try 4WheeleWholesale parts. They have a www page and are prety easy to
price shop against other suppliers

John

----------
> From: RykRover@aol.com
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: ARB airlockers?????????
> Date: Monday, February 02, 1998 1:35 PM
> I am looking for fr/rear lockers for the D-90 , any ideas on where to get

the
> best price?
> Thanks in Advance,
> Rick

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Subject: Re: Need help
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 12:41:43 -0700

JB,	

Soo many things you had questions about...

Gears-
No syncro in 1st...should not be overtly loud though! Always start in
1st...the teeth need the oil.

2nd is syncro'd between 2nd and 3rd. 3rd to 4th also.
Stick with a S11a tranny. They are stronger than S111...I have a S111...

Oil preasure- can be a bit of a mystery depending on amount in block,
grade, temp of day and most important head gasket condition. To test for
head gasket run engine until warm; shut off, let stand for about 3-5 min.
remove radiator cap and restart engine. If there are bubbles bordering on
the foamy side running past the mouth...be weary of a potential problem
with the head gasket and or compression.

Springs- Shot springs can range from blown pack shakles( the little cuffs
around the pack) being spread beyond contact with the main spring. To
having negative ark...much like a power bow looks like in bow and arrow
worlds.
A "list" to one side or another is not neccesarily indicative of
anything.Land Rover factory specs allow three inches of variance on ride
hight side to side and front to back. This will depend on where or what
you've done with the vehicle in the last 12 hours!

Steering-

The best guage of the condition of the steering is to view the relay nuckle
in the front cross member. This will require looking under the front
end..Do you see much oilly residue or apparent leakage? This may be a cause
for loose steering... Also adjustments are easy...Also look at the track
rod ends...These "nuckles" could need some work. All in All stering is an
easy fix...and not outragiously pricy iether.

Brakes-
Again not an overly expensive fix unless the brake cylinders are
blown...That can be expensive...If possible pull one wheel (prefferably
front) and slide off the brake drum cover. If the cylinder is blown you'll
know right away...oily mess inside!

Good luck
If you want to talk live give me a call.
303-774-9225

John Wood
Event Co- Solihull Society

----------
> From: JB Kropp <JB@flycast.com>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Need help
> Date: Sunday, February 01, 1998 12:20 PM
> So I looked at a Series IIA rover this past weekend and need some help

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 51 lines)]
> I appreciate all the help,
> JB

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 98 17:09:01 EST
Subject: Re: ARB airlockers?????????

>I am looking for fr/rear lockers for the D-90 , any ideas on where to get the
>best price?

Rick, try the Land Cruiser connection out in VA, they're about 1/2 hour 
west o' me, and they are an arb dealer.
decent prices, yada yada yada.
later
DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 23:12:19 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: rusting aluminium

Ahh - humpler og duner - as we say in Danish

(there's an amazing Dutch documentary on danish television right now!)

hi!

Paul wrote:
> > 'hobbels en duinen'???????? Is this a serious condition?
> > --
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
> > --
> > Adrian Redmond
> Absolutely !! Bumps and Dune's.     8^)

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> Email: P.M.A.Snoek@net.HCC.nl
> URL: http://web.inter.NL.net/hcc/P.M.A.Snoek/

-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 17:26:06 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: ARB airlockers?????????

 Try Safari Gard or ECR (sorry for the commercial plug), we both sell them
for 550 each.

>> best price?
>> Thanks in Advance,
>> Rick

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 98 17:30:04 EST
Subject: Re: The Great Diapragm Issue...

>If Dave had a problem with a punctured diapragm, he'd be pushing a baby 
>pram and not his Land Rover.

Baby pram? 
Why would I push a poor, helpless young pram? 
Now um, er, back to that fuel pump...

watch it, I'm very PC!
DaveB 

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 98 17:36:08 EST
Subject: Re: The Great Diapragm Issue...

>If Dave had a problem with a punctured diapragm, he'd be pushing a baby 
>pram and not his Land Rover.

Oh, yes, And I haven't ever had to push my LR*
This from the guy that tried to tow his 109 SW (blown tranny)with a VW 
rabbit...silly...man

Hmm, yes, uhm, PArts'r US?

Yes, ok, I'd like a rebuilt Series 11a transmission please, and uhm, one clutch 
for a vee dub golf...

Would've been up for the towball had he been in OVLR.
Oh yes, Bill when ARE you going to join?

*I can usually get it off to the side using the starter!

later
DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 11:23:00 -0800
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Subject: Re[2]: 101 production (was US 25 year import rule)

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 98 08:43:04 EST
Subject: Re[2]: 101 production (was US 25 year import rule)

>> Well when I talked to customs in Washington they told me that nothing
>>which was EX-MOD could be imported no matter what year it was.  They
>>were very very clear about it as well.    FYI

>Interesting. I'd like to see the documentation of that rule. Bet they can't
>produce it.

Could the reasoning behind this ruling be that military vehicles generally
do not conform to civilian vehicle requirements, no matter what year they
were built?  Things light headlight placement and other requirements have
been in place for many, many years, and in fact were one reason the Land
Rover's headlights were moved from their protected position on the radiator
bulkhead to their more exposed position on the front wings.  This change
occured at the end of Series IIa production.  I have no idea how the US
requirements of this type apply to the Land Rover 101,  but it may be that
military vehicles just don't meet civilian requirements.  I have seen
Forward Controls on the road in the UK, of course, but I have no idea what,
if anything, their owners had to do bring them up to MOT standards, nor do
I know how the UK's MOT standards compare to the US DOT standards for
vehicles.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Need help
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 98 15:19:25 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>

>1.	1st and reverse are "straight" cut gears.  When I was in first,
>it was very loud.  Almost sounded like it was grinding.  Is this normal?
;>I actually never started in 1st but in second.  He told me I never
;>needed to start in 1st, sounds scketchy.

First gear has a tendency to whine.  But the movement should be smooth 
without clunks and if you let your foot off the gas abruptly, it should 
not pop out of gear.

>2.	2nd gear is not synchronized.  Is it possible to get a 2nd gear
>synchroed.  I think series III have synchronized gear boxes.
;
Series III transmissions are all syncro.  It will bolt in,  You would 
need the series III clutch slave sylinder & mounting bracket.  Scotty can 
rebuild a series IIA box with full syncro gears.  As far as I know he is 
the only one in the world doing it.

>3.	When the rover was in idle, the oil pressure gauged read about
>40.  But when it was running it was near 50-55.   I know the ideal
>pressure should be around 20, is 40 too high?
;
Oil pressure seems good to me.

>4.	How do you tell when the springs are shot?  This rover was
>slightly leaning to the right.  The guy selling it says "ever rover
;>leans"   I thought it was a bad spring and it also has a lot of surface
;>rust.

Surface rust happens.  The driver's side spring is stronger than the 
passanger side.  When there is no weight in the passanger side they 
frequently lean to the passanger side.  The ones that are really badly 
worn will not lean.  If you jack up a corner, look to see if all the 
leafs tightly fit together.  If you see any air between leafs at the ends 
the springs are shot.

>5.	It also had loose steering.  Is it hard to get it tight?  He
>said it was because it hasn't been driven in a while, but I thought it
;>needed some work.

Depends upon what's wrong with it.  Could be a quick adjustment of the 
steering box, replacment of the sterring box, replacment of the relay, 
the tire rod ends or any number of things.  Take it into a place that 
does alignment for a free estimate.  They will look it over & let you 
know what it needs.  Could also be that the bolts holding the steering 
box in place are loose.

>6.	The speedometer wasn't reading the speed right.  It was all over
>the place.  Is it a matter of getting a new cable or does the entire
;>thing have to be replaced?

Once again, without looking at it you can not tell.  You may need a new 
cable; to have the head rebuilt, or both

	 
>7.	How do you tell if the brakes are shot?

Pull the drums & look.  Remove the wheel & there are some flat head 
screws that need to be removed.  You can take the car into a brake place 
for a free brake inspection.  You should have a firm pedal on the first 
push of the pedel.  If its spongy there is probably air in the system.  
If it goes immediatly to the floor, the shoes probably ned adjusting.  Go 
under the car & look st the rubber hoses at each front wheel & at the 
rear diff.  Check the brake back plates for fluid leaking as well as the 
master cylinder.  If you have pressure & it slowly goes down, your master 
cylinder is probably shot.  But the reasiest way is to get a free brake 
inspection.
>Other than that, the rig is better nice.  Straight body panels, runs
>very nice, interior is perfect, heater and wipers work great, no rust on
>the frame, and no pitting on the swivel balls, however it needs some
>work.  By my questions above, does it sound like I am getting into a
>mess?

Not really

>I appreciate all the help,
>JB
>the frame, and no pitting on the swivel balls, however it needs some
>work.  By my questions above, does it sound like I am getting into a
>mess?

TeriAnn Wakeman 
Santa Cruz, California

NOTE NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS twakeman@cruzers.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 18:37:25 -0500
From: Eric Zipkin <ericz@cloud9.net>
Subject: Re: OVLR Dork Tari Award (was Towball Award)

>Dear Mr. Zippy,  I shure hope you meant this for Mr. Alan and not me cause
>dems fighting words in my parts.

I was only offering a suggestion to the assembled masses...not intentioned
to any particular person.

>U r right thought, it would be a shure thing to win but I won't stoop so
>low.   Et tu  AJR?

Limits?  "Won't stoop that low"?  Major points off on the Dork-Tari if you
ask me...remember....its a year-long process :)

>john "who seriously hopes your eye recovers 100%!" hong

Thanks for you wishes...prognosis looks good.

Eric

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 11:32:33 -0600
From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Subject: Removing Tape and Moisture Control

>>>>> "SPYDERS" == SPYDERS  <SPYDERS@aol.com> writes:
    SPYDERS> I removed the grey carpeting in the back of my
    SPYDERS> truck (on the wheelboxes, etc.)  and it was held
    SPYDERS> down with long strips of double sided sticky
    SPYDERS> tape, which I'm now trying to get off. So far,
    SPYDERS> I've tried a bottle called "GooGone" or
    SPYDERS> "GoopGone" and Bug'N'Tar Remover, both of which
    SPYDERS> turn the lines into a jelly which then smears
    SPYDERS> everywhere... This stuff is hard to get off.

    SPYDERS> Any ideas on lifting this tape goop?

Zippo Lighter Fluid (Naptha).  Works like a champ on most of
this gunk.  As always, test on a small area to make sure it
doesn't eat your paint too.  "Use in a well-ventilated area"
and don't smoke while you're doing it...
							-MM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 21:39:22 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for part

Steve wrote:

> I am looking for the plate that attaches to the wiper motor cover on
> the left side of the dash it reads:
> (L/R Logo)
> IMPORTANT
> 1. Tyre life will be reduced if used .....
> 2. when this vehicle....
> 3.when snow plowing...
> anyone have one of these?? Must be in VG condition

The Series One Club sells several plates including a red "Four Wheel
Drive" one for #3.50 and a "free-Wheel Hub" plate for #4.00. But they
only sell them to members (though I don't know if they check) and only
if you don't live in North America. Someone told them they could be sued
for millions by Americans if one of their products caused injury, and
lose all their money, and that US product liability insurance is much
too expensive. Of course that they don't have sufficient assests to
interest any US lawyer, and they are in the UK without a US presence. A
member has voluntered to be an intermediary so all is not lost.
Personally, I wonder if I should ever write anything for a UK
publication given the UK liable laws.

BP also sells plates, and is willing to risk multi-million dollar
lawsuits and sell in the US.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 21:45:04 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Spark Plugs

>From the SI Club "Legend" #90 (with some interpretation):

2.25 Engines
7:1  Champion N8,  NGK B5ES
8:1  Champion (U)N12Y,  NGK BP5ES

2.5 Engines  Champion N10Y,  NGK BP6ES

1.6, 2.0 4 cyl
Champion N5, NGK B6ES, Motorcraft AG3, AC 44N

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 22:09:06 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Subject: LR 50th Anniversary West Coast Bash

Land Rover / Range Rover / Defender / Discovery / Freelander

    California LROA members invite all Land Rover Owners
                  and Enthusiasts to the

        Land Rover 50th Anniversary West Coast Bash
                       <1948-1998>

    to be held at the Hollister Hills SVRA Park, Hollister
                     California, USA
        Friday May 15th through Sunday May 17th, 1998

     On site camping facilities for 90+ vehicles available
         many more off site and day use accomodations.

       All Land Rover clubs are invited to be co-hosts
    and offer their expertise, time and members' services.
     Commercial vendors are actively sought as Sponsors.

            For further information please see
                www.landrover.net/LROA/50th

        or contact Geoff Jackson, Event Coordinator
            408-574-3798 USA <rrover91@aol.com>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 22:15:18 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Subject: LROA Meeting

                  LROA Meeting
          Saturday, February 14th, 1998
   9:30 AM Coffee and Donuts, 10:00 AM Meeting at

             AiC Corporate Offices
           (Geoff Jackson 408-574-3798)
       151 Martinvale Lane, S. San Jose, CA

Directions:
- Highway 101 South, past 280 Interchange about 5 miles/ 3 exits?
- Bernal Road (Silicon Valley Blvd) exit, go West 1 mile
- Right on Via Del Oro, 1 block past San Ignacio
- Left on Martinvale, across street from DMV

Agenda:
        1)  LROA organization
                -  Officer selection & appointments
        2)  Corporate status, bylaws
        3)  Financial status
        4)  Membership status, renewals
        5)  AW newsletter production, advertising
        6)  Quartermaster report
        7)  WWW presence
        8)  Events
                -  50th Celebration, Hollister CA, May 15-17
                -  Nevada Throphy, Reno-Las Vegas run, June 5-7 ??
                -  Desert-Pro Challenge, Fernley NV, Dec 4-6
        9)  New business
        10) Meeting schedule 1998
        11) Adjournment

Anything else?

-Michael

Michael Carradine                       LROA Member Services
President pro tem, LROA                 PO Box 430, Walnut Creek, CA 94597
T/Fx 510-988-0900                       Annual dues $24/year

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 01:54:01 EST
Subject: Re: Need help

First gear should whine a little, but not much. From my gearbox-blowing
expriences, new first/second gear, and new bearings are near silent.

Springs? Check to see where the shackles are: if they're near vertical, and
the bottom edge of the lower sills is just about in line with the top of your
rims (if you were to draw an imaginary straight line), the springs should be
okay.

Speedo? The grease on the cable is probably nonexistant. Take the cable out of
its housing, and regrease, before buying parts that you may not need.

Steering is LOOSE?!?!?!?!...

I wish mine was! What do you mean by loose? Is there too much freeplay before
the wheels start to turn? Diagnosing this is simple:

First, turn the wheel, and listen for any "klunking" sounds. if any are heard,
then you probably need a new steering box. (NOTE: most steering boxes can be
rebuilt, or serviced by topping off the oil - some early ones cannot be
serviced, and should be replaced by later types) If not, then proceed to step
2: Grab the top of each tire, and see if you can push it in towards the
engine, and back out again, and feel for play; if any, then the railko
bush/bearings are worn out. If not, then step 3: lift up the front of the
truck, and push each wheel left/right, and check for play: if any, then tie
rod ends are in order. (and, if you replace two, you may as well replace ALL
six of them.)

It's doubtful that the steering relay is causing it, because they tend to dry
out, causing the steering to be very stiff.

It depends on what the truck has been through in its life, as to how many of
the above items need attention.

Brakes are easy, as one other person noted: either they work, or they don't.

Oil pressure? Hey, the way I drive, the more oil pressure, the merrier! I'd
rather replace a leaky seal, than a holy engine.

Charles

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 02:02:39 EST
Subject: Re: A day at the junqueyard

The wiper motor itself, is the very same one that's used in the Series 3. It's
also used in MGB's, and a few other vehicles: the only difference, is the
ratio of the drive gear (determines where the blades will park - I think).

That service light in the 280ZX - the 240's had one, too. My brother had one,
as did my neighbor. Could almost double as a convoy light???

Never tried the seats, but they should fit, provided you're not too tall.

I almost got a set of seats from some kind of Shelby car (don't know which,
because they were already in a LR), and they were comfortable as hell, BUT -
when I tried one on my truck, A) I had the toughest time climbing iin (I'm
6'2"), and B) they put me pretty close to the wheel, as well as the inside of
the top!

I still think about them, though - nice inflatable lumbar support!

Charles

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 02:18:37 EST
Subject: Re: Joke: 10 best tools

Robert - that was GREAT! Loved it!

Especially, since my Rover SD-1 presently has the bailing (safety) wire
holding the tailpipe in place, because those damnded rubber donuts (at $7.00
EACH) either break, or fall off!

Where did I learn this trick, you ask? Easy... I also happen to be the proud
owner, of my fourth MGB-GT!

However, for removing oil filters, a Phillips head is best - it can be driven
through the filter easier. For you women out there, it means less force.

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 00:51:23 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: LR 50th Anniversary West Coast Bash

Land Rover / Range Rover / Defender / Discovery / Freelander

    California LROA members invite all Land Rover Owners
                  and Enthusiasts to the

        Land Rover 50th Anniversary West Coast Bash
                       <1948-1998>

    to be held at the Hollister Hills SVRA Park, Hollister
                     California, USA
        Friday May 15th through Sunday May 17th, 1998

     On site camping facilities for 90+ vehicles available
         many more off site and day use accomodations.

       All Land Rover clubs are invited to be co-hosts
    and offer their expertise, time and members' services.
     Commercial vendors are actively sought as Sponsors.

            For further information please see
                www.landrover.net/LROA/50th

        or contact Geoff Jackson, Event Coordinator
            408-574-3798 USA <rrover91@aol.com>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 00:52:39 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: LROA Meeting

                  LROA Meeting
          Saturday, February 14th, 1998
   9:30 AM Coffee and Donuts, 10:00 AM Meeting at

             AiC Corporate Offices
           (Geoff Jackson 408-574-3798)
       151 Martinvale Lane, S. San Jose, CA

Directions:
- Highway 101 South, past 280 Interchange about 5 miles/ 3 exits?
- Bernal Road (Silicon Valley Blvd) exit, go West 1 mile
- Right on Via Del Oro, 1 block past San Ignacio
- Left on Martinvale, across street from DMV

Agenda:
        1)  LROA organization
                -  Officer selection & appointments
        2)  Corporate status, bylaws
        3)  Financial status
        4)  Membership status, renewals
        5)  AW newsletter production, advertising
        6)  Quartermaster report
        7)  WWW presence
        8)  Events
                -  50th Celebration, Hollister CA, May 15-17
                -  Nevada Throphy, Reno-Las Vegas run, June 5-7 ??
                -  Desert-Pro Challenge, Fernley NV, Dec 4-6
        9)  New business
        10) Meeting schedule 1998
        11) Adjournment

Anything else?

-Michael

Michael Carradine                       LROA Member Services
President pro tem, LROA                 PO Box 430, Walnut Creek, CA 94597
T/Fx 510-988-0900                       Annual dues $24/year

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 10:24:04 +0000
Subject: Re: OVLR Dork Tari Award (was Towball Award)

Can we skip the <yawn> politics, otherwise we might have to inflict
discussions on Kitchen-Gate  to you...    :-)

(the UK Press is very bored atm)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

CIrvin1258@aol.com on 02/02/98 05:50:29 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: OVLR Dork Tari Award (was Towball Award)

(sorry, Cirvin, but prices have been dropping a bit)
No worries, John, with the way elections have been going, Algore will
probably
get the office for himself, and before 'ya know it, up they go again
(prices,
that is)
Kinda like having a secret bank account!
Charles

------------------------------

From: "Alan Logue" <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: An unusual Land Rover For Sale
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 21:04:55 +1030

Sorry for the cross post on this, but a rather unusual Australian Land Rover
is available for sale.
I'm not involved in the sale in any way, other than to let others know that
this beast is available, and it would be great for it to go to a "good
home".
The vehicle in question is an ex Australian Army "Truck Fire Fighting, 3/4
ton, GS, Fire Engine, Land Rover Series 2a, 109i in. WB Chassis.
At least thats what it is described as in the Army manual.
Put simply, it a rare Australian Army Land Rover fire truck, with 20,000
miles on the clock. It is complete with most fittings that bolt on (except
the ladder), but it is missing some of the bits that go in the lockers on
the sides.
It is in almost excellent shape except for the black canvas hood over the
driving compartment, although a spare is included with it, albeit the wrong
color (olive drab).
I will have photos of the actual vehicle shortly for anyone interested, and
can send a copy of the relevant parts of the official army technical manual
to anyone that is interested.
As the seller is not on E Mail, I will fax any enquiries directly to him -
please dont ask the price, as I do not (and do not want to) know.
This is the second one of its sort that I have seen, and I have photos of
another vehicle with is one chassis number different (25301098a vs
25301097a)
The army nomenclature plate reads

Chassis: Chassis Fire Tender
Model: Spec Army (Aust) 47
Chassis No: 25301097a
Manufacturer: Rover Aust Pty Ltd
Contract No: C109194
Date of Delivery: 4/63

I'm not sure exactly how many of these vehicles were in army service - (does
anyone on the AU list know?), but they would be rare in this sort of
condition - the door tops aren't even rusty!!!!!

Alan
Logue & Associates
PO Box 689
Morphett Vale
South Australia
Ph +61-8-83228965
Fax +61-8-83875535

------------------------------

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 73 lines 3674 [forwarded 611 whitespace 0]
 Output: lines 2658 [content 2414  forwarded 316 (cut  295) whitespace 0]

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-1999 by the original poster or/and Empire Rover Owners Society, All rights reserved. Photos & text Copyright 1990-1999 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Empire/LRO List of charges for Empire/LRO Policies against the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Empire/LRO fees for the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Frequently Asked Questions
<--Back	HOME	TOP	Forward -->	height=31 width=88 alt="Made with Macintosh" border=0>