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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 john cranfield [john.cra17Re: Guitar strings/Flowers/lr content
2 cascardo@ix.netcom.com 10tel # for RoverWorld
3 Mike Johnson [johnsonm@b21Re: tel # for RoverWorld
4 Keith Mohlenhoff [krm@nj35Engine Conversions and Registration, fuel additives
5 "Richard Marsden"[rmarsd20Re: Engine Conversions and Registration, fuel additives
6 Jan Schokker [janjan@xs420Re: More parabolic springs
7 Faye and Peter Ogilvie [20Re: Fuel System Problems IIA
8 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M20Re: Engine Conversions and Registration, fuel additives
9 Adrian Redmond [channel6105Roverly perceptions
10 Adrian Redmond [channel655Re: The steaming issue
11 "Michael Fredette" [mfre11[not specified]
12 Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml26RE: Roverly perceptions
13 "Donald A. Put" [daput@p29Guitar strings and LR Fasteners
14 Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml43RE: The steaming issue
15 "Adams, Bill" [badams@us23Re: Engine Conversions and Registration, fuel additives
16 "Christopher H. Dow" [do19[Fwd: Best kept "secrets" finally exposed] (NOT SPAM!)
17 "Paul" [P.M.A.Snoek@net.16Re: Roverly perceptions
18 kiotee@mcn.net (Roy Cald6Re: Roverly perceptions
19 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@nr16Re: Engine Conversions and Registration, fuel additives
20 "Spencer K. C. Norcross"24Re: Camel Trophy Paint Code
21 JSmallals@aol.com 14Help, my rover won't turn off!!!!
22 "Adams, Bill" [badams@us13Historic limitations...
23 Blair Gillespie [blairg@13[not specified]
24 Russ Wilson [rwilson@usa26Re: Help, my rover won't turn off!!!!
25 Tony Treace [atreace@HAS32RE: Help, my rover won't turn off!!!!
26 Adrian Redmond [channel6100aftermarket brake servo pump mod SIII (1979)
27 Adrian Redmond [channel631No red CHARGE light????
28 dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.o17Re[2]: Help, my rover won't turn off!!!!
29 jimallen@onlinecol.com (21Re: misc. Bang Bang
30 jimallen@onlinecol.com (153Re: Rochester CFM ratings
31 "Christopher H. Dow" [do50The spammer has been punished
32 Rick Grant [rgrant@cadvi33On the subject of Carbs
33 rover@pinn.net (Alexande21Solid
34 rover@pinn.net (Alexande32Morroccan delights
35 jimallen@onlinecol.com (36Re: carbon buildup: DONT WATER IT!
36 Allan Smith [smitha@cand14Re: Roverly perceptions
37 Allan Smith [smitha@cand17Re: SHPD oil change
38 lroshop@idirect.com 36Re: tel # for RoverWorld


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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 08:38:41 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Guitar strings/Flowers/lr content

Jon R. Humphrey wrote:
> >> Hope this helps
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 8 lines)]
> >That's insulting! Please don't conpare my Ovation 6 and 12 to a
> >Toyota!         On to LR content:
> OK OK OK Then, your Ovation is a complete piece of shit..6 or..12!!!!!!

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> Glen Campbell..c.68.........via the Smothers Bros. and "JOHN HARTFORD"
> Get A Gibson.....or a FENDER man
Speaking of Fenders they gotta be made of Birmabright!
   John and Muddy

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From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 08:36:00 -0500
Subject: tel # for RoverWorld

Does anyone know the number for RoverWorld (I found them on the Web). 
Are thy still in business?

Lucas

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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 09:18:08 -0500
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: tel # for RoverWorld

cascardo@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> Does anyone know the number for RoverWorld (I found them on the Web).
> Are thy still in business?
> Lucas

If my copy of LROI doesn't get here by the X-mas I will need that number
too.
I thought I paid for LROI not Aluminum Workhorse.

sed %mailfile%| grep $FLAME > /dev/null
-- 
end
Mike Johnson
johnsonm@borg.com
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm
dpmcjaj

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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 10:08:49 -0500
From: Keith Mohlenhoff <krm@nj.paradyne.com>
Subject: Engine Conversions and Registration, fuel additives

Hello;
Some questions;

1. When you convert from gas to diesel or the other way around how do
you go about registering the vehicle? I live in NY. 

2. Do most Diesel owners on the list use fuel additives? How can you
find out when the Fuel companies start adding them? Not every fuel
pumper understands my question. 
Last two years I have added anti-gelling stuff when temps dropped below
25F. Do I really need to? I try to park in the garage when it gets
really cold. I found a few medium sized warm blooded pets(or small
children - don't want to discriminate) strapped to the fuel tank helps.
Don't forget to unstrap them before you drive off. You'll get lots of
waves if you forget.

3. What diameter are most snorkels?

4 Does the oil in the oil bath air cleaner restrict the flow of air when
it is cold. Would restricted air flow reduce my miles per gallon. I lost
2MPG since this cold weather started. This is a gas engine. The engine
temp is just a bit lower than in summer. I am using the same octane
fuel. I buy fuel in NJ. When do they start adding the oxegenated stuff?
Does this reduce MPG?

Thanks in advance

Keith R. Mohlenhoff
63 IIA 5 door 2.25D
71 IIA 3 door 2.25P

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From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 15:18:18 +0000
Subject: Re: Engine Conversions and Registration, fuel additives

>2. Do most Diesel owners on the list use fuel additives? How can you
>find out when the Fuel companies start adding them? Not every fuel
>pumper understands my question.
hey, here in the UK, I have trouble getting an answer to "Is there a
cut-off at GBP 50?"

When they eventually think of an answer, or have asked the super, the
answer is usually "no" - even though the pump strangely switched off just
over GBP 50!

Maybe they don't think its possible to fit so much into a vehicle, and
still want more! (with jerry can, I can take over 24 gallons)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 16:43:43 +0100
From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: More parabolic springs

At 11:23 14-11-97 +0000, you wrote:

>Hi all,
>I received a couple of responses about my parabolic spring query, but I
>still don't know the following about them:
>1) Can they carry more weight than standard springs?
>2) Do they make any difference in the height of the car?

Iwan,

Could you please share with us what you found out?
I am very curious too.
My military 109 only has axle articulation when I put 500 Kg in the back.

Thanks, Jan.

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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 05:36:14 -1000
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: Fuel System Problems IIA

Check the fuel probe, it may have picked up some crud left over from the
manufacture of the tank.  Check it with the engine running also as the
obstruction could fall away when the vacuum is removed. 

At 10:18 PM 11/12/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Okay folks, this one has be baffled. I finally installed a new fuel tank in
>the Series IIa over the weekend (D.A.P. tanks, btw, is real quality) and
>tonight, while on a test drive, the beast just lost power under
>acceleration and died. A quick check showed fuel coming into the carb
>(Zenith); I primed the fuel pump several times and cleaned the sediment
>bowl; then the thing idled like a clock--for about 20 minutes, until I

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
>Towson, MD
>1969 Series IIA 88" Petrol

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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 16:13:40 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Engine Conversions and Registration, fuel additives

>>2. Do most Diesel owners on the list use fuel additives?

Well,FWIW,my being in England,I used Redline 85 plus for a while.
I had tried others with no noticeable effect.The redline reduced
the smoke considerably(After about 24 hrs),the engine ran much
quieter,and seemed to have more power.Unfortunately,the confounded
stuff is imported by a "one man band",who was never available on
the phone,I've now lost his number,........
I'm still looking for a substitute since I'm running on low sulphur
fuel,and the word is although the stuff is good news at the tailpipe,
(if you're bothered),you get less power,and less fuel system lubrication.
And its the latter I'm bothered about.
The relevant bit from your viewpoint is that Redline is an American firm.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 17:18:22 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Roverly perceptions

Hi all -

I have recently been away from the list for a month, on my return it is
sad to see how things are changing on this list. Far be it from me to
promote myself as an elder of the list, I've only been subscribed for
little over a year - but please permit me to come with some
observations.

It seems that many of you are expressing frustration at off-topic talk,
cross-cultural talk, and the varied types of humour to be found when
cyber-rovering. It could be a real problem, or it could just be a
question of perceptions and expectations.

This list, and the internet, is not some predefined thing - it has grown
out of some peoples fine initiative some years ago, motivated by the
urge to chat about land rovers. But the internet is not some selct club,
and even though we owe redit, and a degree of respect to those who put
their computer bandwidth at our disposal, we must also recognise that
with every new subscriber to our "community" the list evolves and
becomes the sum of those who subscribe and participate at any one time.

It's all a question of how you view the net for yourself - and it is a
persdonal choice - I choose not to see the lro as a select narrow topic
club with strict rules of membership, but as a sort of virtual english
pub, with some simple rules of courtesy and social behaviour.

If this were a club - I may not have time to go to all the meetings, but
I'd be sad to miss the pub atmosphere after the meeting - so we're all
LRO's, we all have rusty footwells, jammed freewheel hubs, interesting
hi-lifts and were all on the look-out for that overdrive or winch which
will better our vehicle - but - just imagine - if this were a pub -
would we go there just to talk winches and compression ratios, or
because we like the company.

The culture of the pub is hard to define, but there are some simple
lessons - soetimes you tell a good story, bringing it to the others to
amuse and inform them. Sometimes another tells a story - and it's your
turn to listen, or to wander over to the bar and buy peanuts. You don't
have to approve of the political correctness of every joke and story, to
be able to enjoy the company, make friends, and learn a little.

So it is with friends - you have some things in common - football,
stamp-collecting, restoring cars or whatever - on the basis of a common
interest, you forge a relationship, and you usually end up talking about
something else. It is the same at work, at play, and in the
neighbourhood - the common interest is a starting point, but it rarely
sets the limits for topics of conversation.

I like this place the way it is - ever changing, full of contrast and
contradiction, a haphazard community united by a common interest. If the
majority have the opinion that I have unwittingly enrolled myself into a
strictly topic-defined newsgroup then I'll rover on and find somewhere
else, but until then I'll enjoy receiving nearly a hundred mails a day
from people, most of whom I'll never meet, but many of whom I am proud
to share the bandwidth with.

If they like cat jokes, are pro- or anti- handguns, are Americans,
Austrians or Brits, if they are rover purists who evaluate paint colours
for spacer washers far beyond sight, or if they are experimenters who
are convinced that a F16 Volvo Intercooler is "just the job" for an
ageing Series II - is for me - immaterial - I can read it, and evaluate
it for myself, and my delete button is always at hand.

Anyway, I'd rather receive off-topic postings about things which
interest me (but I didn't know interested me) than the 10% or so of
postings of those desperatly trying to unsubscribe, or junk mail, or
those almost indestructible empty postings which i seem to get every day
on this list.

In the last year, many of you folks have, for all your differences,
helped my diagnose and rerpair, evaluate and understand my Land Rovers,
giving me a lot of workshop and some motoring pleasure. At the same time
I have had help with computer tech problems, internet graphics problems,
contacts to USA research sources for my work, several illuminating
courses in geology and mining theory, and a great day out with a fellow
subscriber whom I met up with in Alaska - all from this list.

If tolerating a quantity of off-topic chat, foreign humour, and
political views diametrically opposed to my own is the price to pay for
that, then sign me up for the next year.

Let's keep things in perspective eh?

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 17:28:25 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: The steaming issue

I posted a posting here the other day about a steaming rover, which
seemed to be overheating - I had several useful tips - thermostat,
hoses, water levels - but it turned out to be something else - here's
the short answer -

My SIII 88" has an aftermarket vacuum servo "jammed in" above the
generator/alternator, to support the brake system. This totally obscures
a view of the generator from above. It uses a seperate pulley belt,
which is drivien by an extra concentric pulley on the water pump.

When I finally got my arm behind it all, it was obvious that the real
pulley belt - to the generator and water pump was loose - my wife must
have checked the servo pump pulley for taughtness and guessed that it
was ok for the water pump too.

The reason was simple - the rear bottom mount bolt for the generator had
fallen out, allowing the belt to pull the generator off centre and bend
the front flage, which, under vibration had broken, thus allowing the
generator to flop out of action and slacken the belt - the moror ran ok,
but no water pump rotation, no generator, and no brake servo.

Fortunatly I had a spare, it was a ba's'a'r'd to fit, because the servo
pump tension bar had also broken, so this needed removing first. Getting
the bolts in and out on this end of the engine is very difficult and
slow, but after a few hours - all working.

My temperature indicator is still dud though - on both the 88" and the
109" - the sensors are new, the fuel gauge which is on the same voltage
stabiliser is ok, the wiring looks ok, but no temperature indication -
any offers?

that was friday folks...

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

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Subject: Camel Trophy Paint Code
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 08:31:25 -0800 (PST)
From: "Michael Fredette" <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

  Does anyone know the name of and color code for the
  Camel Trophy Yellow?

Rgds
Mike Fredette
101FC
mfredett@ichips.intel.com

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Roverly perceptions
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 08:47:28 -0800

Well put!
Thanks Adrian!

And For What Its Worth (AFWIW) I belong to three mailing lists, One
about Rovers, One about Catalina sailboats, & one about a rock band, and
this list has - by far - the best ratio of on topic vs off topic posts.

Paul
Victoria, BC  Canada

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Adrian Redmond [SMTP:channel6@post2.tele.dk]
>Sent:	Friday, November 14, 1997 8:18 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Roverly perceptions
>Let's keep things in perspective eh?

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 27 lines)]
>Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
>---------------------------------------------------

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From: "Donald A. Put" <daput@pe.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 10:16:06 +0000
Subject: Guitar strings and LR Fasteners

Hello all,

Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc> wrote:

>are there any acoustic guitar pickers on the list? I would be gratefull for the contact info
>for a place that can handle mail order strings.

Contact Musician's Friend at (800) 776-5173.  They have a large 
selection and the prices are very reasonable, especially when they're 
running a sale.   

Rover stuff:  A friend at work had to return to the UK to get his 
visa squared away, so I gave him a list of SI parts that I needed for 
my restoration.  Anyway, he just faxed me a list of items from a 
place called LR Fasteners (A. & B. Arnold).  Has anyone dealt with these 
folks before?  Sorry, but I don't know where they're located as an
address wasn't listed on the fax.  

Don
Idyllwild Brewing Company
Feedbag Stout--It's not just for breakfast anymore.

Proud owner of '55 Series I.

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: The steaming issue
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 09:10:19 -0800

Hmm, my Friday is just beginning...

There are two types of temperature sending devices (both, I think are on
Rovers)

A simple bimetallic switch operates the temperature warning (idiot)
light.  If the engine gets too hot, the switch closes, grounding the
lights power and completing the circuit - the light comes on.

For a temperature gauge, most vehicles use what is called a thermistor -
a resistor that varies it's resistance with temperature.  The hotter the
resistor gets, the lower it's resistance to current flow becomes. As the
current increases, the temperature gauge needle moves up.

Get out your Digital Volt Meter (actually for tests like this, an
analogue meter works better) and measure the resistance of the
temperature sender on the engine block (with the gauge lead removed) as
the engine warms up from cold.  If the resistance gradually drops, the
senders working.

Work backwards from there towards the gauge to check the wiring.

If everything's fine there, then there's a problem with the gauge.  Have
it checked by an automotive electrical shop as it is fairly easy to
damage.

Paul.

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Adrian Redmond [SMTP:channel6@post2.tele.dk]
>Sent:	Friday, November 14, 1997 8:28 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Re: The steaming issue

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 60 lines)]
>Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
>---------------------------------------------------

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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 12:12:20 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Engine Conversions and Registration, fuel additives

1. I don't know about New York, but in Maryland, if it's a Historic 
vehicle, they don't care if you have gas, diesel or that you have to push 
it around by yourself. You might look into that.
2. I don't use anything except the occaisional dollop of Marvel Mystery 
Oil in the tank to loosen up the injectors. Most pump diesel is supplied 
with anti-gel and lubricant agents. You can add a bit of kerosene or JP4 
if you are terribly worried about wax precipitation. Also be sure to buy 
fuel at the cheapest station as they tend to sell the most/freshest. And 
change your filters!
3. Smallest diameter for a snorkel will be the size of the carb inlet. 
Diesels are handy in that the intake manifold is already pointed in the 
right direction.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 09:18:09 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: [Fwd: Best kept "secrets" finally exposed] (NOT SPAM!)
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------9167AF65136D7CCFB7B5545E" ]

Hopefully, they'll make the spamming stop
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From: "Paul" <P.M.A.Snoek@net.HCC.nl>
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 18:47:16 +0000
Subject: Re: Roverly perceptions

> Let's keep things in perspective eh?
> Adrian Redmond

I agree !!!

P.M.A. Snoek
the Netherlands
D90 2,5TD 1990
Email: P.M.A.Snoek@net.HCC.nl
URL: http://web.inter.NL.net/hcc/P.M.A.Snoek/

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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 12:01:47 -1000
From: kiotee@mcn.net (Roy Caldwell)
Subject: Re: Roverly perceptions

Right On !    Adrian

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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 14:25:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Engine Conversions and Registration, fuel additives

On Fri, 14 Nov 1997, Adams, Bill wrote:

> 1. I don't know about New York, but in Maryland, if it's a Historic 
> vehicle, they don't care if you have gas, diesel or that you have to push 
> it around by yourself. You might look into that.

	Take care before going into the Vintage/Historic/Antique classes
though.  Some jurisdictions can impose some quite impressive limitations
on how you can move your prize about.  Ontario limits milage, you can only
go to and fro "sanctioned" events, limited milage for "testing"...
Something to consider.  

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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 15:07:02 -0500
From: "Spencer K. C. Norcross" <spencern@acr.org>
Subject: Re: Camel Trophy Paint Code

Mike wrote:
>  Does anyone know the name of and color code for the
>  Camel Trophy Yellow?

Mike,
the color is sandglow, and the paint code is on the roverweb in the FAQ:
http://www.off-road.com/LR_FAQ/

-- 
rgds,
spenny
Arlington, VA

1969 SWB, The Wayback Machine
1965 Ex-MOD LWB, Gromit <- Just add bolts  :-0
Land Rover - 4WD of choice for the Information Superhighway

Q. Why do they call it a kilt?
A. Because a lot of people got kilt when they called it a skirt.

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From: JSmallals@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 15:27:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Help, my rover won't turn off!!!!

Hello all,
My 66 IIA will not turn off!!!  When I turn the key It keeps running...only
when I crank down HARD on the key does it finally manage to stop.  I have the
black cam style ignition and headlamp switch. Does anyone know what may be
wrong???  Suggestions for fixing???
Thanks,
James Small
66IIA SWB SW

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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 15:38:32 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Historic limitations...

One of the most vigorously enforced rules we have in the vehicle code in 
this state.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 12:50:40 -0800
From: Blair Gillespie <blairg@fix.net>

subscribe RRO
Blair Gillespie
San Luis Obispo 
California USA

1988 Range Rover
1972 SIII 88
1967 HD FLH
1940 Ford Pick Up

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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 15:54:09 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Re: Help, my rover won't turn off!!!!

>Hello all,
>My 66 IIA will not turn off!!!  When I turn the key It keeps running...only
>when I crank down HARD on the key does it finally manage to stop.  I have the
>black cam style ignition and headlamp switch. Does anyone know what may be
>wrong???  Suggestions for fixing???
>Thanks,
>James Small
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>James Small
>66IIA SWB SW

Jim, This is very serious indeed.  I believe that your rover may be haunted.
I'd look in the phone book under exorcists and get intoudh with someone Fast.
Good luck and may god be with you....
OR the problem could be something like timing a bit off or a bad switch.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------
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From: Tony Treace <atreace@HASimons.com>
Subject: RE: Help, my rover won't turn off!!!!
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 12:59:19 -0800

James,
I had the same problem on my 1966. You don't need to use a lot of force,
just push the "in" while turning the key in either direction. When you
push "in", you are compressing the little spring that is supposed to
keep the contact surfaces together. In my switch, the spring had caused
the mushroomed head of the white plastic shaft (which extends through
the switch) to shear off. This caused the key cylinder to become
disconnected from the contact plate.
My 88 couldn't be turned on or off without knowing this trick. It made a
decent antitheft device.

Tony Treace
atreace@hasimons.com

1967 109 SW
1951 80 HT

> ----------
> From: 	JSmallals@aol.com[SMTP:JSmallals@aol.com]
> Sent: 	Friday, November 14, 1997 3:27 PM
> To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: 	Help, my rover won't turn off!!!!

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
> James Small
> 66IIA SWB SW

------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 23:18:41 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: aftermarket brake servo pump mod SIII (1979)

Alasdair asks about my brake servo pump (SIII)

Dear Alasdair,

In Denmark we have a test switch on the centre (SIII) dash which
supposedly checks the circuit of an alarm system, comprising two
pressure switches, one on the master servo, and one on the brake line
coupling between the front and rear brake circuits - this lights a red
lamp in the switch every time the servo pressure drops (which is every
time you brake hard or accelerate hard - consequently this red light
blinds you when driving hard and braking hard at night. Another feature
is a switch which if pressed - checkes this circuit. I don't know if
this is standard all over the world, but I have seen many early 70's and
late 70's SIII which don't have this. I hink it was added to comply with
inspection regulations somewhere in the world, at about the same time
that the servo vacuum reservior to the left of the radiator, as seen
from the cab, was added, I guess around 1974 (?)

It doesn't change the braking, but it does make you aware of the
performance of the servo system - which on an older SIII with a few
leaks and bad adjustment, can be terrible. After a few years rovering,
as the truck got older, I noticed that the red light was on more often
than not when in busy driving conditions (which is actually when good
brakes are useful!)

My mechanic added an aftermarket pump - a small device, about the size
of a tin of beans with a flywheel on it. It sits above the generator,
and is mounted in a similar manner . a bracket to two of the bolts which
hold the water pump casting on, and a swingarm for tensioning to another
bolt. An extra pulley wheel is added to the waterpump/propeller, and an
extra belt drives the pump.

The vacuum servo pipe from the air intake is diverted to the input of
the pump, and the outpu of the pump goes to the plastic T joint, which
then feeds the front vacuum reservior and the brake vacuum servo.

The paddle-flap in the air intake manifold which is normally closed when
the motor is idling and the accelerator is up, is removed, and the
mechanical linkage to the accelerator is removed. The holes for the
paddle-flap axle are blocked to maintain vacuum.

The pump which i have came off another vehicle - I can't remember which
- it is made by a German company called Pierburg, who live in Neuss in a
street called Bataverstrasse - I can't remember the fax or telephone
number, and I have never found their e-mail address. The casting does
not have any numbers or identification.

The pump works simply - a small piston is driven by the axle, which then
pushes up anddown on a diaphragm, about 100mm in diameter, with a hole
in the centre to fix it to the piston with a washer on each side, and
six equidistant holes around the edge, where the diaphragm is sandwiched
betwwen the top and bottom of the pump housing. The bottom half is the
piston and mechanics, the top is the pump. Inside the top are two non
return valves which hold air (or the lack of it) in the chamber and
outmotor air intake. As the diaphragm pushes up, air from the servo and
reservoir is sucked into the pump, whilst air from the pump is pushed
into the motor on the next cycle.

The hose connections are two brass tubes, approx 10m diameter, fitting
the standard LR servo hosing.

I have two of these - one on my 88" and another which was broken, which
i kept, intending to put it on the 109". I have serviced it, but the
diaphragm is punctured, and as yet, I haven't found a supplier for the
diaphragm. (any ideas?)

The pump really heps the braking power, and the constant availability of
braking power - when it works, but the mounting is difficult, and a
little vibration can work the mount loose and the pulley-belt slackens,
in which case you have a standard LR SIII braking system again.

I have seen other pumps after-mounted on the underside right (opposite
the generator) - I don't know about spec, manufacturer, or success with
these though. The advantage of that location, if the radiator hoses can
be negotiated, is that you can still inspect the generator.

I hope this info helps, otherwise, drop me a line if you want more info.

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 23:32:29 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: No red CHARGE light????

My generator broke today (it could have been an alternator, I can't
tellt he difference, but it's a lucas), so i borrowed one off my project
car - which seems identical from a 1973 SIII deisel now on a 1979 ditto.

Now the charge light doesn't light up when I turn on the ignition - any
offers of good advice. (Yes I did remember to put the cable connector
into the generator connector - after half an hour's pondering - but
still no red light?

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------
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From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 97 18:07:28 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Help, my rover won't turn off!!!!

>My 88 couldn't be turned on or off without knowing this trick. It made a
>decent antitheft device.

As if :)...
Had anybody been so inclined, I think they would have bypassed the switch 
altogether...

I know I would...

later
DaveB.

------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 15:29:14 -0800 (PST)
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: misc. Bang Bang

Charles,

        I've been guilty (or accused - anyone remember the 'cat recipes'
thread) of having "no sense of humor" or been overly blunt and taken heat.
I have a pretty tough skin myself, though I will respond with my argument,s
but in the long run, most of the issues brought up here are pretty small
time. Are they worth a lot of time? Don't know. A few may be.
        Anyway, I appreciate the encouragement. Sorry for the delay in
getting back. My modem went up in smoke. As to the LRO cover, it was the
Feb. 1988 issue.

        Jim Allen

>Jim - who cares what other people think. You're a journalist, aren't you?
>Speak your mind, and don't be intimidated by what other people want YOU to
>think. If people don't have a sense of humor - that's their problem.

------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 15:29:29 -0800 (PST)
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Rochester CFM ratings

Jay & Matt,

        I have personally tested on a flow bench most of the carbs you
mentioned and your numbers are way, way off. Here are my number,

        Here's the part that tells you how to figure CFM requirements for
any engine at any speed.

 CFM=3D  rpm X displacement
       ____________________ X  volumetric efficiency
             3456

        Lets break the formula down.
        RPM: Usually the maximum rpm of the engine is used here but you can
plug
        in any engine speed.
        DISPLACEMENT: In cubic inches, the size of the engine.
        3456: This is a constant that converts the upper figure to CFM at 1.=
5"
        of merc.
        VOLUMETRIC EFFICIENCY (VE): This is the engine's theoretical
ability to
        breathe versus it's actual ability as measured in real life. VE vari=
es
        according to engine speed. It's higher at the engines maximum
torque (a
        low speed) and lower at the engines max power (a high speed). A low
        performance engine like the 2286 would have a 75% VE at max power
and an
        80% VE at max torque.

        Plugging in the four-cylinder numbers would look like this.

                          4250 rpm X 139.5 cid
           128.6621 CFM=3D _____________________  X  0.75
                                3456

        If you compare this figure to the tested ratings of the stock
carburetters, you'll find they match fairly closely. If you run one of
these engines, you will also know from personal experience that the engine
is definitely breathing hard above 3500 rpms. A slightly larger carb can
enhance upper rpm performance.

                                RE: Oil Bath Air Filters

        The original oil bath air cleaner has the theoretical airflow to
keep up with the engine. In practice, I have felt a big gain in power by
eliminating it. I was in a quandary on this question until Earl Davis,
K&N's dyno guru, explained a possible reason.
        "It isn't just raw airflow capacity, " he said, "it's also
velocity. If the air cleaner is slowing the velocity of the air, it could
effect performance." Earl noted that the 90 degree elbow and corrugated
hose might have a deleterious effect and recommended trying a smooth hose
and an elbow with a shallower radius and/or moving the radius farther away
from the carb by about 3-4 inches.
        Some owners have reported adapting the factory oil bath filter to
the big Weber two-barrels and claim good results. I have to reserve
judgement on this, having tested the combo with very poor results. At
3800rpm the engine fell flat on its face due to lack of airflow. Mike
Pierce reported similar results when he was developing his Weber 2-barrel
kit. Obviously, these folks never rev the engine much above 3500.

                        Some Test Data They Didn't Print

To save your calculator some wear and tear, I've run the figures for a 2286
from 2000 to 5000 rpm. Compare these figures with the airflow tests of the
various carbs, manifolds and air filters.

2286cc Theoretical Airflow Requirements
Engine RPM              CFM
2000 1                  64.6
2500 1 (peak torque)    80.7
3000 1                  96.7
3500 2                  105.9
4000 2                  121.1
4250 2 (peak power)     128.7
4500 2                  136.2
5000 2                  151.4
1- At 80% volumetric efficiency
2- At 75% volumetric efficiency

Single Barrel Carburetters
Carburetter     Orig. Application       Venturi Size    CFM Rating

Rochester       Chevrolet 230cid
Model BV=DD       6-cyl. mid-'60s=DD         30.9mm=DD         167CFM @ 1.5"

Weber
34-ICH
Aftermarket      Replacement for LR      29mm            138CFM @ 1.5"

Zenith
                LR Factory 2-1/4
                from engine suffix J
36-IV or IVE    (from about 1968)        27mm            127CFM @ 1.5"

                LR Factory 2-1/4
                to engine suffix J
Solex           (to about 1967)          28mm            115CFM @ 1.5"

=DD- Model B and BC Similar.

Two-barrel Carburetters
Carburetter     Original Application    Venturi Sizes   CFM Rating
Weber
38-DGAS =DD=DD      Various                 36/36mm         424CFM @ 1.5"

Weber
28/36-DCD=DD=DD=DD    Various                  26/27mm        224CFM @ 1.5"

Weber
32/34-DMTL=DD=DD=DD   LR Factory
                2-1/4 & 2-1/2
                from 1983               26/27mm         194CFM @ 1.5"

Weber
32/36-DGV=DD=DD=DD    Aftermarket in kit
                for 2-1/4               26/27mm         191CFM @ 1.5"

=DD=DD- Simultaneous opening 2 barrel.
=DD=DD=DD- Progressive opening 2-barrel

Air Cleaners
Original Application            Type                    CFM Rating

Aftermarket-
K&N Part #RU-0600
for 1-barrel Zenith/Weber       Oiled Cotton Gauze      1554 CFM @ 1.5" merc

Aftermarket-
K&N Part #56-1030
for Weber DGV                   Oiled Cotton Gauze      617 CFM @ 1.5" merc

LR Factory-
for original 1-barrel
applications                    Oil Bath                 190 CFM @ 1.5" merc

Intake Manifolds
Type                            CFM Rating
Pierce 2-barrel as comes in
Weber 2-barrel kit              297CFM @ 1.5"

=46actory 1-barrel, modified      235CFM @ 1.5"

=46actory 1-barrel, unmodified    189CFM @ 1.5"

(Modified manifold has had locating sleeve removed and inside edges
radiused towards ports)

------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 15:50:59 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: The spammer has been punished

Here's the mail I got from Hotmail regarding today's spamfest:

Subject: 
        Re: Best kept "secrets" finally exposed
   Date: 
        Fri, 14 Nov 1997 12:57:02 -0800
   From: 
        Notesserver3@hotmail.com
     To: 
        "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>

We have closed the account referenced in your mail.
Hotmail offers a unique service, providing individuals who might not
have
access to a computer messaging service the ability to send and receive
e-mail messages without charge from anywhere in the world.
Unfortunately,
as is the case with most public services, there will be individuals who
abuse their privileges by using the service in an improper manner.
 Hotmail does not in any way condone or support the sending of junk mail
(aka spam) messages through our system. The Hotmail TOS strictly forbids
this and we terminate all accounts that we are made aware that are in
violation of the TOS.
We appreciate your mail alerting us to the spammer using our system. Our

Visit the following  ANTI-SPAM related Web sites for more information on
how to combat SPAM and what you can do about it.
"Help stop Scam Spammers!"
http://www.junkemail.org/scamspam/
Maintainer of the SPAM-L FAQ
http://www.ot.com/~dmuth/spam-l
Complaint Addresses (GoodGuys|Unresponsive|Foe)
http://www-fofa.concordia.ca/spam/complaints.shtml
"If you want to improve your spam-fighting skills, check out"
http://www.ot.com/~dmuth/spam-1
Anchor Desk "Special Spam Fighting Edition"
http://www4.zdnet.com/anchordesk/story/story_index_19970819.html
How to Get Rid of Junk Mail, and Telemarketers
http://www.csn.net/~felbel/jnkmail.html

Best Regards,

>Hotmail Policy Enforcement
>abuse@hotmail.com (408) 222-7011
>Forward full message and header of email in question

------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 18:10:29 -0700
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: On the subject of Carbs

The recent discussion here about replacement carbs is timely since at the
moment my Solex together with the manifold is in a shop having inserts and
new exhaust pipe studs put in.  (recall my adventure with removing exhaust
stud bolts)

Anyhow, I would like to take the opportunity to upgrade the carb but I'm in
a bit of a quandry as to which one to go for.

I really don't have the confidence or the ability to find a junk yard unit
and rebuild it myself and I'd just as soon have something which would use
the existing throttle linkage without too much dicking about.

So I guess I'm looking at buying a complete redone carb from a LR parts outfit.

Now in terms of ease of installation coupled with relative improved
performance, which should I be considering: the Zenith; Single Weber; or
Double Weber.  I'm not terribly concerned about price but I realize that the
double Weber with manifold and header is quite a bit more expensive than the
others.

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 20:38:50 -0500 (EST)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Solid

Ed Bailey wrote:

>Picked up the Nov issue of Land Rover World at Barnes and Noble today.

The *December* issue of LRW arrived in the post today.  Still no November
LRO, though.

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 20:38:46 -0500 (EST)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Morroccan delights

Dave wrote:

>Well let me tell you something, you ain't never really off-roaded 'til
>you've driven your Land Rover, drunk on Moroccan red wine and high on
>exotic spices, through the wilds and potholes of NW DC...

Does the wilds of North Africa count?  I was in the Peace Corps in Tunisia 
25 years ago...had a Land Rover to boot - a diesel 88.  Tunisian wine was 
quite good...and only 40 cents a litre at that time.  (Why drink water when 
you can drink wine.)

>and to top it all off, belly dancers that distract...

Actually, the best belly dancers in Tunisia came from Italy....

Just make sure you don't use your *left* hand when dipping food from the 
communal bowl.  Bon appetit.

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 17:49:12 -0800 (PST)
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: carbon buildup: DONT WATER IT!

TO: John Bickerton
    Derbyshire, UK

        I'd be interested in a longer explanation on your carbon blast
reservations. Here are some "in favor" argumants that you may want to
address.

1) Strictly anecdotal but I spent 20 years as a professional auto
technician and using water was an accepted proceeedure. I did a four year
stint at a Ford dealership. Certain Ford engines (namely 240 and 300 sixes)
were known to get severe carbon knocking. In severe cases, a big chunk
would get caught between the top of the piston and the squish area of the
combustion chamber, causing a knock the likes of which you have never heard
on an engine that wasn't about to die. A judicious application of water
from a squirt bottle with the engine at about 2000rpm did the trick. This
was accepted proceedure at Ford and there may have even been a service
bulliten to the effect, though my memory is vague.

2) Supercharged aircraft recip. engines of WWII used water injection for
"war emergency" power, when the engine was overboosted. The water cooled
the combustion chamber enough to give the pistons a few moments more life.
Actually, the tanks held a mixture of water and some type of alcohol.

3) There are aftermarket water injection devices for cars that appear to do
no major harm (perhaps no good either) but I know one person who used one
with no ill effects for several years. Again, a water/alcohol mix and an
anecdotal story.

        Curious.

                Jim Allen

------------------------------
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From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: Roverly perceptions
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 23:37:05 -0300

Without attaching Adrian's (long but usefull) message, I would like to agree, plus add 
a note that we try to:

	- stick to the subject in the header, or change it;
	- send specific info to people, not the list, "Hi Bob see you on Friday" 
	isn't a global message;

Allan

------------------------------
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From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: SHPD oil change
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 23:37:00 -0300

Hi all - 
In our attempt to get SHPD (super high performance diesel) oil here we are going to be 
offered Castrol Ultramax. What I wanted from the distributor was Turbomax, based on 
the recommendation from LR. Does anyone know if Ultramax is an equal spec? So far 
evety supplier that we have been working with ends up citing an oil that is in the LR 
"don't use" category - Shell Rimula, Chevron Delo 400, etc, etc. 

Now, somewhere down south in peach territory is a place where CT Tdi Discoverys 
practice. What are they using and how do I find out?
Cheers
Allan.

------------------------------
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From: lroshop@idirect.com
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 1997 06:48:01 +0000
Subject: Re: tel # for RoverWorld

To all  US & Canadian subscribers.  We apologise for the non delivery 
of the November issue.  We are investigating.  Once before this 
happened when the courier lost all Canadian copies and we were able 
to replce all copies.  If you are a subscriber and you have received 
the November issue please let me know at kevingirling@lroi.com

I got the feeling talking with customers last week and monitoring the 
list that some have arrived but the majority have not.  I will be 
discussing the problem with the UK on Monday so would appreciate any 
feedback possible.

Thanks, and once again our apologies for the apparent screw up.

Kevin Girling
Land Rover Owner International

 
> If my copy of LROI doesn't get here by the X-mas I will need that number
> too.
> I thought I paid for LROI not Aluminum Workhorse.
> sed %mailfile%| grep $FLAME > /dev/null
> -- 
> end
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> -- 
> end
> Mike Johnson
> johnsonm@borg.com
> http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm
> dpmcjaj

------------------------------
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  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
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