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Subject: 2WD Mystery Date: Thu, 2 Oct 97 07:38:13 -0500 From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com> Do any of you have any ideas? A note from my son: >>i'd really like to get lu running. i've had to borrow my roommate's car for >>gigs and rehearsals. i reset the timing and i think it runs better although >>i still can't get it started without the choke out and giving it a little >>extra gas. there's a lot of exhaust but i think it's all coming from that >>muffler connection that is less connected than it was. >>when i get her started and in gear in 2wd and step on the gas nothing happens >>(like before) and the drive train doesn't move. another curious thing is [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)] >>really easily. it seems like it's looser than before but i'm not sure. >>i'll talk to you soon, k. Lulubelle is my '70 IIa, 343,000k, Fairly overdrive. Bought it new way back when and installed the OD at about 50k. Passed it on to my son a few years ago. A couple weeks ago he called with waht sounded like a broken axle... won't move in 2WD, but moving it to 4WD got it going. But when I talked to him later, driving in 4WD gave him the characteristic "wheel-hop" and when he tried again, it worked in 2WD. Now, apparently, it doesn't again. I asked him to look at the rear drive shaft when it was in gear and not moving in 2WD, and, as you see, he doesn't see any rotation of the shaft. It certainly doesn't sound like a broken axle, but maybe the OD is finally giving way. Have any of you experienced an intermitant OD or something in the transmission that would cause this problem? Tony Anthony R. Sanna SACO Foods, Inc. 6120 University Avenue Middleton, Wisconsin 53562 USA asanna@sacofoods.com 1-800-373-7226 (608) 238-9101 ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 09:45:24 -0400
Subject: Re: 2WD Mystery
This happened to a friend of mine not long ago - the drive
spline/clutch/whatever had worn and was not engaging the input shaft of the
OD correctly. Depending on which way the output shaft of the transmission
shifted, he could sometimes engage reverse where he couldn't get forward
gears. Perhaps not the same as your 2WD/4WD dilemma, but could be part of
the problem.
Pull the cover over the transmission andhave a look at what the gears are
doing. If the OD's output gear isn't turning, then investigate from there.
I'd be mightily suspicious of the OD here - replace it with the gear and
back plate and see what happens...
ajr
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]Subject: Re: Diesel priming Date: Thu, 2 Oct 97 08:26:38 -0500 From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com> Message received. Thanks Anthony R. Sanna SACO Foods, Inc. 6120 University Avenue Middleton, Wisconsin 53562 USA asanna@sacofoods.com 1-800-373-7226 (608) 238-9101 ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: 3 liter Date: Thu, 2 Oct 97 08:26:42 -0500 From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com> Message received. Thanks Anthony R. Sanna SACO Foods, Inc. 6120 University Avenue Middleton, Wisconsin 53562 USA asanna@sacofoods.com 1-800-373-7226 (608) 238-9101 ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: Soft Top Question Date: Thu, 2 Oct 97 08:26:43 -0500 From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com> Message received. Thanks Anthony R. Sanna SACO Foods, Inc. 6120 University Avenue Middleton, Wisconsin 53562 USA asanna@sacofoods.com 1-800-373-7226 (608) 238-9101 ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: RE: FAHRENHEIT vs CENTIGRADE Date: Thu, 2 Oct 97 08:26:44 -0500 From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com> Message received. Thanks Anthony R. Sanna SACO Foods, Inc. 6120 University Avenue Middleton, Wisconsin 53562 USA asanna@sacofoods.com 1-800-373-7226 (608) 238-9101 ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: Re: Diesel priming Date: Thu, 2 Oct 97 08:26:47 -0500 From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com> Message received. Thanks Anthony R. Sanna SACO Foods, Inc. 6120 University Avenue Middleton, Wisconsin 53562 USA asanna@sacofoods.com 1-800-373-7226 (608) 238-9101 ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Andy Phillips <AnPi@serviceteam.co.uk> Subject: RE: RE: FAHRENHEIT vs CENTIGRADE Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 15:34:47 +0100 Ok, who's going to be the email guru who tells Anthony how to switch off his email receipts (see example below) when an lro message gets to him? Some kind person please sort it out, pleeeease! Andy. > -----Original Message----- > From: Anthony Sanna [SMTP:asanna@sacofoods.com] > Sent: Thursday, October 02, 1997 2:27 PM > To: lro@playground.sun.com > Subject: Re: RE: FAHRENHEIT vs CENTIGRADE [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)] > 1-800-373-7226 > (608) 238-9101 ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 02 Oct 1997 17:30:59 +0100 From: Bernd Jonas <Bernd.Jonas@munich.netsurf.de> Subject: [Fwd: gear box overhauling] [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: message/rfc822 ] Hi There! At the moment i´m overhauling the gear box of my 88 SIII ´72. Now my question is: knows anybody from germany a real good adress where to buy new gearbox-parts. I just know the Company "RINKERT" , but is there a better or cheaper (dream on, Bernd!) one? That´s it so far, bye Bernd LR 88 2,25 d ´72 RHS ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 11:36:01 -0400 (EDT) From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott) Subject: clutch question G'day everyone... Just replaced the engine in my Ser II (Thanks Steve) and I now have a question about adjusting the clutch. The new engine came to me with a clutch and it is really different than what I am used to, it is tougher to depress the pedal at the start and then when you let out the pedal the clutch engages very close to the top of the pedal. There is definintly no slippage here because it just takes off like a bat (ok a slow bat). Is there an adjustment to move where the clutch engages/disengages? Thanks Keith '61 Series II 88" Ottawa ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Subject: Crank Shafts, Thrust Washers, & Parking on a Slope Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 08:59:04 -0700 Thanks to those who replied redarding my loose crank shaft. This weekend, I will be droping the oil pan (sump) to have a close look at the bottom of the engine. Is it possibe to replace the crank shaft main bearing thrust washers without removing the crank shaft? I'm not quite ready to pull the engine at this stage of the restoration so I would just like to get things running for now. I actually have access to a 1968 2 &1/4 liter that I want to rebuild next year. On a side topic; I picked up my transmission from the shop, just had them replace all the seals & gaskets. The head mechanic warned me in a half joking tone of voice, never to park the Landy facing down a steep slope as there is no seal on the input shaft of the trasmission! He said that there is a cork screw type arrangement on the shaft that keeps the oil inside the box when the car is running, (kind of like a cement mixer) but just a brass bushing to contain the oil when the car is still. If the car is parked on a steep enough hill, the oil will just run out around the shaft. - another good reason to keep that drain plug out!! Is he right? My transmission is a very early one (no suffix letter) either 1960 or 61. Is this tendancy to leak common to later trans? Paul Quin 1961 Series II 88 Victoria, BC Canada ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 02 Oct 1997 09:05:17 -0700 From: "Nancy Kurland" <nkurland@marshall.usc.edu> (by way of Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>) Subject: LRNA Request For Information [Please CC: Dr Kurland directly as she is not on the LR lists] Hello: I'm looking for information on company contacts. I want to confirm that Land Rover North America Inc is trying to convince dealers to drop traditional commission-based compensation for salespeople in favor of fixed salaries and incentives. I'd also like to know if these incentives are in any way linked to indicators of customer satisfaction. Thank you. Nancy Kurland, Ph.D. University of Southern California Marshall School of Business ************************************************ Dr. Nancy Kurland Assistant Professor University of Southern California Department of Management & Organization Los Angeles, CA 90089-1421 voice: 213-740-6647 fax: 213-740-3582 Home office: 805-522-2617 nkurland@sba.usc.edu kurland@bus.usc.edu ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Thu, 02 Oct 97 12:22:18 EST Subject: Re: Crank Shafts, Thrust Washers, & Parking on a Slope >>Is it possibe to replace the crank shaft main bearing thrust washers >>without removing the crank shaft? yes. pull the center main bearing cap, and rotate the engine. Washers'll drop right out. > I'm not quite ready to pull the >engine at this stage of the restoration so I would just like to get >things running for now. I actually have access to a 1968 2 &1/4 liter >that I want to rebuild next year. see what your bottom end looks like, might be better off putting that one in and rebuild this one. >> never to park the Landy facing down a steepslope as there is no seal on the >>input shaft of the trasmission! true enough. In theory I guess it could get out but it doesn't seem likely. Maybe on a REALLY steep hill. I guess it should be a pretty tight tolerance between the shaft and bushing. All IIa's have this feature. later, DaveB ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 13:07:50 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Diesel priming Micael, Crank the engine a little bit. Sometimes, the engine stops with the fuel pump mechanism on one of the camshaft lobes, which will prevent the pump from operating fully, when used by hand. (happened to me a few times) Then try it again. Charles ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 03 Oct 1997 07:38:00 +0100 From: Iwan Vosloo <ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za> Subject: Re: Diesel priming Micael, I experienced a similar problem and this is what I figured goes on inside...I might be wrong, but it worked for me: You can feel when you are actually pumping diesel as opposed to just operating the spring of the hand lever. If it feels that your're not pumping anything, just turn the engine a little and try again. What happend (I think) is this: the engine operates the pump with a lever just like you do from the other side of the pump. Now if everything is in just the wrong position, it sits there on the other side keeping it's lever pushed upwards. This, of course, means that the diaphragm of the pump is also kept at one position -- your lever does not really do anything but give you a little finger practice. You have to get it into a position where the engine 'let go' enough for you to do some useful pumping. BTW: the very bad way of getting around this assuming you have a good battery is to just crank the engine and let it do the work. But this is probably not so good for your starter. But I know what it feels like to pump that little thing for a while... The other thing to check, of course, if you have two tanks like I do is that the diesel tap is switched to the tank WITH the fuel in it...failure to do this had me busy for HOURS on the very first day I bought my vehicle. I ended up taking the whole liftpump off and opening it and all, just to discover that I was driving on the empty tank ... good lesson to learn on the first day of your first land rover. - Iwan Vosloo ( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 13:11:43 -0700 (PDT) From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (John & Sandy Cooper) Subject: Extend 4 rust? Hello, Has anyone used "extend", a rust treatment product, with success. I am wire- brushing and treating my mud shields with this stuff. After that, I will prime and paint them. Should I expect the rust to "pop" through soon or is this a good product to use? The mud shields were not too bad...just some scale and pitting to contend with mainly around the bolt holes and edges. Thanks, John Cooper 69 11a ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 17:25:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Extend 4 rust?
I used Extend (or the Loctite commercial-packaged equivalent of the stuff)
on my whole chassis. it works well, with the caveat that you get ALL the
oil and grease off the surface before you paint it on. Oil is its worst
enemy - the Extend will neither convert rust or bond properly if it's
greasy.
Clean it up good with a degreaser before painting and use a couple of
coats, and it works well.
Alan R./Mr. Churchill
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]From: RFHALVOR@aol.com Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 17:46:15 -0400 (EDT) Subject: gravel road screens for windshields We will be driving over several thousand miles of gravel roads and it was guggested to get a screen to protect the windows from stones kicked up by passing trucks. does anyone have an idea to protect the windshield and the head lights in this type of envirement. roy halvorsen ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Subject: RE: gravel road screens for windshields Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 14:57:28 -0700 Every Land Rover accessories catalogue has wire mesh light protectors. Try Rovers North. I have never seen a wind shield cover though. Maybe just fold the wind shield down and learn to duck :-) Paul >-----Original Message----- >From: RFHALVOR@aol.com [SMTP:RFHALVOR@aol.com] >We will be driving over several thousand miles of gravel roads and it was >guggested to get a screen to protect the windows from stones kicked up by >passing trucks. does anyone have an idea to protect the windshield and the [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)] >head lights in this type of envirement. >roy halvorsen ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 14:03:56 -0800 (AKDT) From: jurixsys@alaska.net (j sutcliffe) Subject: Re: gravel road screens for windshields >Do what they do in Patagonia. Every time a truck approaches from the other direction everyone in the front seat puts their hands flat on windscreen in the danger zone. i.e. midway up. The driver is advised to keep one hand on the steering wheel. Unless it's a blind corner, then the other hand may be used to make the sign of the cross. >We will be driving over several thousand miles of gravel roads and it was >guggested to get a screen to protect the windows from stones kicked up by >passing trucks. does anyone have an idea to protect the windshield and the >head lights in this type of envirement. >roy halvorsen ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 14:06:18 -0800 (AKDT) From: jurixsys@alaska.net (j sutcliffe) Subject: Re: Extend 4 rust? >I used Extend to save a quite rusty J**p from an early death. I was living in Juneau Alaska with 100 inches of rain a year and no garage. There were rust spots everywhere. Extend stopped it from spreading. Looked nasty. But it worked. >Hello, >Has anyone used "extend", a rust treatment product, with success. I am >wire- brushing and treating my mud shields with this stuff. After that, I >will prime and paint them. Should I expect the rust to "pop" through soon >or is this a good product to use? The mud shields were not too bad...just >some scale and pitting to contend with mainly around the bolt holes and >edges. Thanks, John Cooper 69 11a [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)] >some scale and pitting to contend with mainly around the bolt holes and >edges. Thanks, John Cooper 69 11a ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 18:11:31 -0400 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: Re: gravel road screens for windshields I would suggest a medium guage expanded steel mounted with standoffs long enough to allow the windscreen wipers to operate. Fittings which would allow quick removal would be a help, I'm sure. Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon, '81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard: "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Thorsten Klein" <kleit001@goofy.zdv.Uni-Mainz.de> Subject: Re: Soft Top Question Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 23:15:01 +0100 ---------- > Von: Brian Cramer <defender@uscom.com> > An: lro@playground.sun.com > Betreff: Soft Top Question > Datum: Donnerstag, 2. Oktober 1997 03:17 > Hi All! > Sorry for the cross post, but I need an answer ASAP. [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)] > Sorry for the cross post, but I need an answer ASAP. > Will any SWB soft top fit a Lightweight? Yes, I have civilian Softtop with windows, but I think the sides are a little bit to long (the same problem as with the hardtops, which are 1cm too wide at each side) Hope this helps Thorsten Klein Mainz, Germany kleit001@goofy.zdv.uni-mainz.de SIII Lightweight <Scotty> ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 02 Oct 1997 18:23:17 +0000 From: Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net> Subject: Series 2 Thermostat Does anyone have the part number for a series 2 thermostat, the kind that fits flush with the top of the housing, as the newer ones have a shoulder on them that doesn't allow it to fit on. The guy at AB was a little vague as to the description, so I didn't want to order the wrong one!!! Thanks, Ian -- Ian Harper/Donna Claire McLeod http://www.golden.net/~tantramar Tantramar House Bed and Breakfast Stratford, Ontario Phone(519) 273-7771 Fax (519) 273-3993 ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 18:24:31 -0400
From: The Bickertons <Bickerton@compuserve.com>
Subject: Pictures, Steering, 6-cyl bellhousing
Hi all,
I've been reading all the messages, and I'm FAR too lazy to work
out who was saying what. Just see if it applies to you!
I need some pictures for a high-school major project (on
LandRovers, needless to say). I need a photo of a LandRover (Series,
Defender or both), a RangeRover (new or classic), and a Discovery, for us=
e
in a menu page, where you click on the relevant vehicle to learn more abo=
ut
it. For the next screen after LandRover I need a picture with a Series 1=
,
a Series 2(a?) and a Series 3. I could also do with a piccy of a new shap=
e
and a classic Range Rover. I have one in a book, but it's printed across
two pages, and not really scannable. If anyone can tell me where I could
find such pictures (on the 'net, or in back issues of LRO or LRW). If you=
have such a picture digitized, can you mail me before you send it, so I c=
an
tell you if I already have one. Any other input, web addresses or picture=
s
would also be great, to save me wearing out the school scanner!
My neighbour was trying to work out why he had problems in some
RTV's, and drove around his field for a while. After wandering round with=
a
tape measure, he disappeared into his garage, and hit the steering relay
for a while. Then he undid some bolts and hit it again. Then he drove rou=
nd
the field again. Before he adjusted the relay, he found his turning circl=
es
were seven feet different either way. They are now about the same.
I got some feedback on the LRW email address, and have found out
the following from James Wood, in the Computer Services dept at Link Hous=
e
Magazines:
<< you can reach LandRover World via the 3rd floor email adress of:
101574,221. We are however setting up new email address' for all magazine=
s,
please watch the for magazines for details. We also now have a Web site f=
or
Link House of www.linkhouse.co.uk>>
The last thing is, I have a bellhousing off a 1980 Series 3
6-cylinder 2.6l engine, and yes, it's for sale. Make me an offer! It's in=
Derbyshire, UK at the moment, but I could ship it to where you want it.
Thanks a lot, great list, good threads!
John Bickerton
Turnditch, Derbyshire, UK
S3 hard top, without engine or 'box
S2a truckcab, with broken chassis. Hope to make a good one from t=
he
two!
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From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Micael_B=F6ss?=" <boss@centrum.is>
Subject: Priming
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 23:22:01 +0100
Hi all!
Thank you for all the answers to my little problem. It turns out that most
of you were right, a little cranking of the engine to change the position
of the cam operated lever did it! And about ten minutes of pumping, since
my attempts yesterday actually managed to fill the distributor pump with
air.
Special thanks to Allan, who got me to work this morning!
Regards
Micael Böss
SIII SWB Diesel 1977
Iceland
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]Date: Thu, 02 Oct 1997 19:53:17 +0000 From: Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net> Subject: Front Brake hoses Another Question about Series 1 parts..... What is the part number for the longer front brake hoses for the S1 as opposed to the S3 that have the pipe first and then the shorter flex hose? Or is it more advisable to stick with the S3 convention and buy the bracket for the swivel housing? Any thoughts would be helpful Cheers, Ian -- Ian Harper/Donna Claire McLeod http://www.golden.net/~tantramar Tantramar House Bed and Breakfast Stratford, Ontario Phone(519) 273-7771 Fax (519) 273-3993 ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Steve Stoneham" <stoneham@kos.net> Subject: Series II thermostat part number Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 21:19:44 -0400 I have an old Series II parts catalog that lists the part number as: 500859 (water outlet pipe,thermostat to radiator) The thermostat number listed as: 238320 (2.25 petrol) No doubt these numbers have changed since 1958 but it's a start? Regards, Steve ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc> Subject: Re: Priming Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 22:33:33 -0300 You're very welcome. I'm just happy to know that a lesson learned on a spartan 90 300Tdi is useful to the other earlier square ones. They are all part of the same series to me. Cheers Allan On Fri, 3 Oct 1997, Micael wrote: >Hi all! >Thank you for all the answers to my little problem. It turns out that most >of you were right, a little cranking of the engine to change the position >of the cam operated lever did it! And about ten minutes of pumping, since >my attempts yesterday actually managed to fill the distributor pump with >air. >Special thanks to Allan, who got me to work this morning! ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au> Subject: Gear boxes and Bellhousing Question Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 16:14:00 +1000 Advice wanted. The gearbox on my 1973 S3 SWB is in need of some (expensive) TLC, as it is becoming more common for the gears to graunch when changing up or down, especially between 2nd and 3rd. Doesn't always do it, but it is getting a bit worse, and occasionally happens with the other gears as well. It has done this ever since I bought it (of course, on the test drive, no sign of it, mutter, mutter) My gut feel is the synchromesh is giving up the ghost (but other suggestions are welcome). Once or twice its jumped out of second gear on the over run too, very exciting when going down a steep muddy hill in low ratio (pass the clean underwear!!). I have recently fitted new engine and box mounts and have not repeated the jumping out of gear problem, but this could be due to my passenger being instructed to 'hold the gear stick in position'. According to the PO a rebuilt gearbox was fitted sometime before I brought it,(4 years ago) and apart from gear changing, it sounds OK, with no major leaks either. It looks like the time is fast approaching when I shall have to do something. Any way my dilemma is I have been offered a very good box from a S2(A?) for a reasonable chunk less than sycro rings etc. for my box. So, do I rebuild or fit the S2 box? I know the S2 box has no sycro on the lower gears, but what else is different? Also, can I just swap my bellhousing onto the S2 box to keep the clutch arrangement the same, or am I better off swapping to the S2 clutch mechanism as well? Thanks in advance. Richard, NZ PS By the way, my LR is fitted with a Holden (GM Australia) 202 6 Cylinder motor, otherwise is pretty standard. ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 02 Oct 1997 22:54:05 -0700 From: Jeremy John Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: Crank Shafts, Thrust Washers, & Parking on a Slope Paul Quin wrote: > The head mechanic warned me in a > half joking tone of voice, never to park the Landy facing down a steep > slope (snip) Is he right? Yes this is quite true and correct. Its been know to cause the ruination of clutch discs by soaking in 90W. Nice to know that the senior mechanic knows what he's looking at :) > My transmission is a very early one (no suffix letter) either 1960 or > 61. Is this tendancy to leak common to later trans? All through to SIII. cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ppinheiro@ip.pt
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 08:16:25 +0000
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
Hi!
> Now who earns one of those LR T-shirts that were going to be
> produced for knowing the temperature at which both scales have the
> same reading? Luckily we don't get anywhere near it down here.
-40 degrees Farhenheit = -40 degrees Celsius
I won, I won !! :-) I know this from personal experience, because
I lived in the US for one year as an exchange student, in Missouri,
and it went down to -40 one night with the wind chill... brrrrr :-)
LR content: don't forget to plug in to the outlet your diesel Land
Rovers when it gets that cold! :-)
Bye! Pedro Pinheiro (Lisboa, Portugal)
'67 LR SIIA 88" Diesel 'Oscar' 24430781D
'90 RR with the VM Turb(ulent) Diesel
AFS Exchange Student - Missouri, US, during 1993-94
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]From: Autoconv@aol.com Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 03:50:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: gear box overhauling (Reply) If you can put together a parts listing and delivery address I can quote with carriage from the UK. David Ashcroft ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com> Subject: RE: Gear boxes and Bellhousing Question Date: Fri, 03 Oct 97 09:08:00 PDT Might be worth checking that the clutch is working properly first before stripping the gearbox. Check for leaks, check the adjustment at the master cylinder and bleed the hydraulics. A clutch not disengaging fully could cause graunching when changing gear. Yours hopefully, Scott C. Davies '85 110 2.5D HT ---------- From: Eyres, Richard RP Subject: Gear boxes and Bellhousing Question Date: 03 October 1997 16:14 Advice wanted. The gearbox on my 1973 S3 SWB is in need of some (expensive) TLC, as it is becoming more common for the gears to graunch when changing up or down, especially between 2nd and 3rd. Doesn't always do it, but it is getting a bit worse, and occasionally happens with the other gears as well. It has done this ever since I bought it (of course, on the test drive, no sign of it, mutter, mutter) My gut feel is the synchromesh is giving up the ghost (but other suggestions are welcome). Once or twice its jumped out of second gear on the over run too, very exciting when going down a steep muddy hill in low ratio (pass the clean underwear!!). I have recently fitted new engine and box mounts and have not repeated the jumping out of gear problem, but this could be due to my passenger being instructed to 'hold the gear stick in position'. According to the PO a rebuilt gearbox was fitted sometime before I brought it,(4 years ago) and apart from gear changing, it sounds OK, with no major leaks either. It looks like the time is fast approaching when I shall have to do something. Any way my dilemma is I have been offered a very good box from a S2(A?) for a reasonable chunk less than sycro rings etc. for my box. So, do I rebuild or fit the S2 box? I know the S2 box has no sycro on the lower gears, but what else is different? Also, can I just swap my bellhousing onto the S2 box to keep the clutch arrangement the same, or am I better off swapping to the S2 clutch mechanism as well? Thanks in advance. Richard, NZ PS By the way, my LR is fitted with a Holden (GM Australia) 202 6 Cylinder motor, otherwise is pretty standard. ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 04:43:58 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Brown paint question... A w h i l e back, somebody was asking me about the "khaki-ish" color, that some military Land Rovers were painted, and I couldn't find the part number, if my life depended on it! Well, the local survivalist/surplus store (a really good one, too, if you need camping equipment), recently (FINALLY!) got another shipment of the stuff in. The part number is: (military) 977 - Sand (civilian) 30277 Hope that whomever was looking for this number is still on the list, and sorry for the delay. Charles ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971003 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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