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Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 07:31:40 -0500
From: "Spencer K. C. Norcross" <spencern@acr.org>
Subject: Virus Hoaxes & The LRO
Well, we've had our virus warning e-mail, i guess it's time to discuss
free wheel hubs vs. non free wheel hubs again. :)
rgds,
spenny
Arlington, VA
1969 SWB, The Wayback Machine
Land Rover - 4WD of choice for the Information Superhighway
Its deja vu all over again...
-Yogi Berra
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]Subject: Re: SIIa for Sale Date: Mon, 11 Aug 97 08:48:44 -0400 From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com> On 8/8/97 16:56 RykRover@aol.com wrote: >`63 SIIa hardtop >strong motor & gearbox, new fuel pump, wires,battery,brakes & lines,exhaust, [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)] >Rick Valentino >Bel Air , MD Why? :-( David Russell http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r David_R@mindspring.com SIIA, SD, Z3(wife's), FJ40, Wicked Fat Chance, Davidson Impulse, Road Shark ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: frame prep Date: Mon, 11 Aug 97 08:48:48 -0400 From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com> I'm preparing a used galvanized frame for a frameover that has a bit of surface rust on it and a few spots where, to my untrained eye, either the galvanizing has come off or, perhaps, some aluminum has corroded onto the frame? How can I tell if this is the case and should I be worried about the surface rust? I was not planning on painting the frame but will be waxoyling it. TIA David Russell http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r David_R@mindspring.com SIIA, SD, Z3(wife's), FJ40, Wicked Fat Chance, Davidson Impulse, Road Shark ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 08:54:29 -0400
Subject: Re: frame prep
Re: Rust vs. aluminium corrosion:
I'd be surprised to see ally corrode to zinc....but it would be white if it
did. Red patches would e runst from the subsurface steel.
Were it me, I'd clen the offending surface of loose rust, treat it with
Extend or some other rust converter, and top it with cold galvanizing spray
or Galvafroid, depending on where you are and product availability.
ajr
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]Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 9:18:48 -0400 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: Re: Re:SIII diesel dist pump timing Adrian, Adrian...you can't time a CAV diesel pump by REMOVING the darn thing. Here's how I do it: Remove bonnet. Place hand crank in the socket and remove flywheel housing peephole cover and diesel pump peephole cover ( Spewage ensues) remove valve cover. Get a flashlight (or torch, as they say over there) and arrange it so that it shines into the flywheel peephole, wire it to the bulkhead if necessary. Spin the engine a few times by hand. Now for the fun part. get up on top of the engine and use your foot to turn the engine with the crank, while looking in the flywheel window. Remember that the piston must be ascending the bore on the combustion stroke. Both valves should be closed and the 16 degree mark must line up EXACTLY with the pointer. Now look in the pump window. If you don't see the proper timing mark, you're likely out of phase. If you do see the proper mark, observe how it lines up with the timing mark on the pump body. If it is necessary to move the pump, you'll have to loosen the fuel lines to the injectors. Rotate the pump enough to line up the timing marks and tighten ONE of the base securing bolts. Do the rotation/position thing again to be sure the timing is now correct and if so, proceed to put things back together. With practise, this will become a simple thing that you can do when you are waiting for the engine oil to drain when changing it. Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon, '81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard: "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 06:52:49 -0700 From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net> Subject: Re: Virus Hoaxes & The LRO Spencer K. C. Norcross wrote: > Well, we've had our virus warning e-mail, i guess it's time to discuss > free wheel hubs vs. non free wheel hubs again. :) What, and skip right over cup holders? Cheers, Greg ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 10:14:05 -0400 (EDT) From: Christian Neuhaus Wiese <chnw@amauta.rcp.net.pe> Subject: Re: DISCOVERY / DIFFERENTIAL LOCK. David : can you fax me a breif brouchor for the Detroit locker and Truetrack to the fax (511) 5770222. Thanks. At 06:05 11/08/97 -0400, you wrote: >URL: http://WWW.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ >Christian [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)] >Regards >David Ashcroft ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 11:27:53 -0400 From: Dean Meyer <Dean.Meyer@internord.net> Subject: Galvanised frames. Should I paint my new galvanised frame or just leave it as is?Mr. Marlsand told me that most guys just leave as is. I was planning to squirt it full of Waxoyl before putting it together. Is this still a good idea? And should I run the wiring first before the Waxoyl? What are cup holders? Is that some sort of thing to keep bearings in? :>) Dean Meyer 1964 Morris Mini Minor Traveller "Wanna see my woody?" 1966 Austin-Healey 3000 MK III "The moneypit from Vegas" 1967 Austin-Healey Sprite MK III "The big block" 1974 Land Rover Series III 88" "Kinabalu" ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 11:32:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Slave cylinder replacement Hi all, Question: Can I cross clamp the flex line to the clutch slave cylinder without damage to it? This would mean a much easier bleeding job later but I don't want to have to replace the flex line in a few months. Thanks Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Slave cylinder replacement Date: Mon, 11 Aug 97 16:40:55 BST The three times I've worked on the clutch hydraulics, I've just let the fluid drain out (okay, on one occasion, I didn't have any choice; and another, it was the master I was replacing). Just let it go. Its quite a short bit of piping and without any joints. I've had lots of trouble getting the Eezibleed cap to fit the resevoir top. So, I just put a small rubber tube over the bleed nipple, and open it a tad. I then keep topping the resevoir up, until a.) no air comes out, and b.) with the nipple closed, I get a good hard pedal. When I did my front brakes with my father (my first "major" work on the truck) we clamped the front hoses with toolmakers clamps. These worked well. I had spare hoses handy, and as it happened, one of them didn't survive the clamping. I should think clamping brake hoses *does* help (having never bled the entire brake system to compare). Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) > Hi all, > Question: Can I cross clamp the flex line to the clutch slave cylinder [ truncated by list-digester (was 9 lines)] > Thanks > Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 11:43:03 -0400 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: Re: Slave cylinder replacement My 1963 manual says to depress the pedal and prop it in that position. Seems that it keeps the goop from draining. Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon, '81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard: "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Mon, 11 Aug 97 11:54:45 EST Subject: Re: Slave cylinder replacement >Hi all, >Question: Can I cross clamp the flex line to the clutch slave cylinder >without damage to it? yes. ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Subject: Series IIA Braking Problems Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 09:43:44 -0700 Hello Everybody. A friend of mine has a 1969 Series IIA SWB station wagon, with power assist brakes with which he has had a ten year running battle. The latest problem is that: When the engine is cold, he has lots of pedal pressure and good braking. When the engine gets hot, while driving around town with lots of stop and go, he looses all pedal pressure. Pumping the pedal does not help. When the vehicle cools down again, the brakes are fine. There is no sign of fluid leaks and all brake components are fairly new. My guess is that there is still some air in the system and when it gets hot, it expands, creating a spongy pedal. Does this make sense? Can any one suggest more possible causes? Paul Quin For: Sussex Davis 1969 Series IIA SWB Station Wagon Victoria, BC Canada ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 12:04:01 -0500 From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com> Subject: Unsubscribing Dear All; Appologies for my incompetence inadvance. Leaving town for two weeks and need to unsubscribe. Last time this came up I laughed at the folks that couldn't figure it out...my time has now come. I tried the following: went to the website and checked the unsubscribe box-no change >>>> UNSUBSCRIBE <LAND-ROVER-OWNER> <HERMANS@KRTS.COM> **** unsubscribe: unknown list '<LAND-ROVER-OWNER>'. tried upper and lower case-no change >>>> WHICH The string 'hermans@krts.com' appears in the following entries in lists served by Majordomo: **** No matches found this means that I'm not subscribed, but I'm still getting mail Help -Herman ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 13:45:03 -0400 From: Chris Stevens <chris_stevens@sba.com> Subject: Series IIA Gas Tank Replacement The time has come to swap out a leaky tank for a new one and replace the rusty front tank support bracket. Anyone done this before? Any advice? Chris Stevens Towson, MD 1969 Series IIa SW 88" 2.25 petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 13:12:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Galvanised frames.
To paint or not to paint - that is the question!
Paint, undoubtedly. Looks original, is labor-intensive, and a royal pain in
the butt.
The true Rover way.....8*)
Honestly, I'd paint. it just looks better in a spiffy semi-gloss black.
ajr
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]Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 13:55:46 -0400 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: Re: Series IIA Gas Tank Replacement Don't drop the thing on your foot when you get the last bolts out. Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon, '81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard: "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 14:07:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Series IIA Gas Tank Replacement
Tankage and bracketage:
neither is a big deal - just requires patience and a welder for the
bracket.
The support bracket is a welded outrigger - replacing it requires cutting
off the old one (after carefully measuring its placement on the chassis)
and welding on a new one. The new ones come with a mounting plate, allowing
you to replace the side section of the rail if it's rusty too, or simply
weld the plate onto the existing side rail if it's OK. This moves the
outrigger out by 1/16" or so, so you may need to compensate on the tank
mounting hole a bit.
The tank itself's a doddle - drain it thoroughly, reinstall the drain plug,
pull the passenger seat, open the cover over the top of the tank and
disconect the wiring and tubes to the top of the old tank. Also, disconnect
the 2 tubes (filler and vent) from the rear, at the bulkhead.
Drop the mounting bolts and the tank will come away clean.
Swap the sender and pickups to the new tank with new gaskets and Hylomar,
ANTI-RUST COAT THE NEW TANK HEAVILY, and reinstall. No biggie.
ajr
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]Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 21:45:11 +0200 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: Series IIA Braking Problems Paul Quin wrote: >A friend of mine has a 1969 Series IIA SWB station wagon, with power >assist brakes with which he has had a ten year running battle. >The latest problem is that: When the engine is cold, he has lots of >pedal pressure and good braking. When the engine gets hot, while >driving around town with lots of stop and go, he looses all pedal :pressure. Pumping the pedal does not help. When the vehicle cools >down again, the brakes are fine. There is no sign of fluid leaks and >all brake components are fairly new. >My guess is that there is still some air in the system and when it >gets hot, it expands, creating a spongy pedal. Does this make sense? > Can any one suggest more possible causes? My first guess would be that one of the brakes is not releasing all the way, so it and the brake cylinder gets very hot while driving around and a steam bubble forms in the cylinder and the brake pipe. The cheapest test would be to drive around until this occurs again, and then feel the wheels; if one of them is very hot, that's where the problem is. (Had this on a VW Camper once, in Iceland... scary!) Regards Peter Hirsch Vienna, Austria Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces) ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 21:45:02 +0200 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: Virus Hoaxes & The LRO Spenny wrote: >Well, we've had our virus warning e-mail, i guess it's time to discuss >free wheel hubs vs. non free wheel hubs again. :) Smile when you say that! ;>) Peter Hirsch Vienna, Austria Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces) ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 22:01:49 +0200 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: Series IIA Gas Tank Replacement [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------37168BF75610C794B6D693F1" ] Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Adams, Bill wrote: > Don't drop the thing on your foot when you get the last bolts out. There speaks the voice of experience from a LRO whose tank must be held in by non-standard nuts and bolts instead of the usual sand and diesel compound adhesive :) -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- --------------37168BF75610C794B6D693F1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Adrian Redmond Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="vcard.vcf" begin: vcard fn: Adrian Redmond n: Redmond;Adrian org: Channel 6 Television / Denmark adr: Foerlevvej 6;;Mesing;Skanderborg;Jutland;DK-8660;Denmark email;internet: channel6@post2.tele.dk title: Head of production tel;work: +45 86 57 22 66 tel;fax: +45 86 57 24 46 tel;home: +45 86 57 22 64 x-mozilla-cpt: ;0 x-mozilla-html: TRUE end: vcard --------------37168BF75610C794B6D693F1-- ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 22:15:31 +0200 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: Galvanised frames. [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------3B61311CE23FFE02C71AB9C1" ] Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com wrote: > To paint or not to paint - that is the question! Galvanising the fram is only worth it if it's an entire frame, and galvanised (dipped) inside and out - otherwise (IMHO) avoid anything which resembles gunk or undersealing compound - it looks nice (like black paint) it covers everything besides the frame, it hides a multitude of sins which become "venal" behind a waterproof shield which hides their progress and rears its ugly rusty face only the day you take it for inspection and fail due to a chassis with the strength of a well oiled pappadam. Undersealing seals bolts, nuts, brackets, in fact almost everything besides the frame. It is however perfect for the new vehicle owner who thinks it will push up the resale value (it usually does) and who intends to dispose of the four wheeled novelty to an unsuspecting roverite before the pre-times rust invasion sets in. I have renovated four rovers, all bearing the deadly low viscous snake oil of underseal, all looking pretty until the steam cleaner had undressed this unholy vestige, revealing a waxy box profile fiull of rainwater and rust flakes - in all four cases the first task is to remove the gunk - not having it woulęd certianly reduce the rebuild by 3 or 4 days. If underseal is so good, why do shipowners pay a fortune to take the vessel out of the water at least every 5 years, scrape and paint the hull and set to sea again? Personally I use marine enamel . first a dry, clean frame, then 2 coats of red rust preventing paint, then 2 or three coats black enamel. Always brush of the old paint, otherwise the annual repaint will quickly result in a paint version of underseal with rust hiding beneath the bubbles - keep the paint coat thin enough for rust to show through - if it riusts you can see it, and deal with it. And don't forget to do something with the insiude of the chassis - I recommend carlofon - which is a sort of generic waxoyl - but first, fill the chassis frame box section with water, and check that it drains - if not, make a few holes (or open up the old ones - it's ok for water to get in, as long as it gets out again. There endeth the lesson of the day - sorry about the lecture - I feel passionate about this subject, as our highways are full of cars whose owners have all paid a hundred quid or so to have their underside ruined - just cause it looks good. PS. if yo8u have ever tried to weld, grind, brush or paint this gunk, you'll know what i mean. -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- --------------3B61311CE23FFE02C71AB9C1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Adrian Redmond Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="vcard.vcf" begin: vcard fn: Adrian Redmond n: Redmond;Adrian org: Channel 6 Television / Denmark adr: Foerlevvej 6;;Mesing;Skanderborg;Jutland;DK-8660;Denmark email;internet: channel6@post2.tele.dk title: Head of production tel;work: +45 86 57 22 66 tel;fax: +45 86 57 24 46 tel;home: +45 86 57 22 64 x-mozilla-cpt: ;0 x-mozilla-html: TRUE end: vcard --------------3B61311CE23FFE02C71AB9C1-- ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 16:24:54 -0400 From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com> Subject: Re: Galvanised frames. Dean Meyer wrote: > Should I paint my new galvanised frame or just leave it as is?Mr. > Marlsand told me that most guys just leave as is. I was planning to > squirt it full of Waxoyl before putting it together. If you decide to paint it then find a paint system including primer intended for use on galvanized steel. Many paint systems will just peel off. Since the Marsland frames are hot-dip galvanized, I doubt the paint will be of any benefit. Anything that will go through the zinc with blow right through the paint. And the zinc will continue to protect the steel even if scratched or chipped. Black paint will make the LR appear original however, unless it is a pre-production prototype. One of LRs biggest mistakes was not galvanizing the production frames as the prototypes were. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 14:34:04 -0700 From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Subject: 109 Upgrade to dual power brakes At 8:51 AM 8/11/97 -0400, Keith Mohlenhoff wrote: >TerriAnn; >Have been wanting to do just that very thing on my 109. I have acquired a [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)] >replace everything so that >the whole brake system is new. Two questions for you; I replaced all the lines on my car. It was easier to plumb and I already had two rust through pin holes in the old tubing that caused immediate total brake failure. You did not say if your car was right hand or left. Since mine was left any comments I make that are side related will be for left hand. >1. did you use the mixing valve? If thats the same thing as a PDWA, an 'H' shaped thing that has a switch that tells you if a system is open, yes. >2. I have a diesel, would you know if it would produces enough vacumn? I do not have a clue. Poll pre-Defender diesel owners who have power brakes on the main list. >3. what parts did you replace, what did you have problems with, what would you >do differently? Let me go over it quickly. First, if you have a copy of the recent OVLR news letter artical on converting brakes to dual power brakes, DO NOT USE IT FOR YOUR 109. That artical only covers the conversion for an 88, and there are some things in the story that are wrong for a 109. You get a pattern of the wing cutout from a late IIA or series III. With your bonnet closed mark a line where the bonnet meets the wing top. Your cut should not come closer to this than a half inch. Remove the wing then cut the inner and top wing to provide clearence for the new power brake assy. The rear top wing mount flange on the bulkhead will need to have the top cut in half so that you only have the outer mounting hole. You need this for clutch resavor clearence. Remove the old brake pedal box. You will need to make the rectangular clearence hole longer at the bottom since the pedal is hinged differently. You will also need to file the hole slightly wider where the new pedal's side mounted return springs pass through. Otherwise they will loudly scrape against the sides of the hole when you use the brakes. Use RTV aound the base of the assy when you do the final mount to minimize leaking. Remove the old master clutch cylinder and replace it with a series III master cylinder that has its own built in resavor. You do not need to change the clutch pedistal (the factory did not) nor change anything else. If memory serves, I just attached the old clutch line to the new master clutch cylinder. YOU WILL NEED TO OBTAIN A 109 MASTER BRAKE CYLINDER AND MATCHING PDWA. This master cylinder was never on a car officially imported to North America. An 88 master cylinder will not work. You have two front cylinders per side & the 88 only has one. It takes 3 or 4 pumps to get brakes with an 88 master cylinder (I learned that the hard way). If you look at a 109 master cylinder from the side, you will see that the overall diameter is wider for the cylinder closest to the driver than the cylinder closest to the grill. You will see a step at the bottom when viewed from the side. If you do not see this you have an 88 master cylinder. The wide diameter cyinder, closest to the driver, is where the tube for the front brakes goes. This is just the opposit of the 88's plumbing. The 109 master brake cylinder is internally different than the 88 master cylinder in that there is NO mechanical link between the two cylinders. It relys upon the PDWA to close the circuit to the front brakes trapping fluid in the master cylinder closest to the bulkhead to provide pressure to operate the rear brakes. This means if you have no PDWA, a nonfunctional PDWA, or the wrong PDWA installed, if you lose the front brake circuit, you will have no brakes. I spent the $$$ to purchase a new 109 master cylinder and a new correct PDWA. There are lots of different PDWAs and most are only for letting you know if you have a blown circuit. Only a few are designed to block off a passage. When you order a master cylinder, PDWA or brake lines, order parts for a 1984 109. Thats the very latest available for a 109. I mounted the PDWA on the stanchion that the steering box would be mounted to on a right hand drive car. Brake lines: You can ether order new brake lines already made up with the correct fittings, or make your own lines. If you make your own lines, you will need the proper flaring tools and propper new fittings. Brake fittings available in the US do not properly mount into British fittings. The diameter and thread pitch are correct, but the US fittings are shorter than the UK fittings. This means A UK male fitting going into a US female fitting will only be held by a couple of threads when it is tight. It means that a US male fitting will not properly seat the flare in a UK female fitting before it is tight. The only source of UK fittings I know in the US is Rovers North. Its easier just to order a complete set of 1984 left hand drive 109 brake lines. I purchased two flare tools, one double flare, and one bubble flare for a little under $150, fittings from Rovers North, and local tubing. I had to throw away the fittings that came on the tubing. I probably spent a day more routing tubing, marking ends, removing lines, cutting tubing, flaring tubing, rerouting tubing, securing fittings, than I would have if I purchased ready made up fittings. >your said your brakes worked better after the upgrade, in what ways? I get more brake for the pressure applied, and when I brake hard, the car stops in a shorter distance. Best of all I get a more secure feeling driving with a properly set up dual brake system. I have experienced sudden brake failure four times in my life. The first time was going down a hill into a hairpin 300 degree curve. I bailed out the driver's side door just before the car went over the cliff. I LIKE the idea of a dual brake system. >My brakes fade when I jam on my brakes above 50, i don't think that will change >but I'm sure I won't have to apply so much pressure to stop. >brake box and a servo for That sounds to me like ether incorrect brake linings, or it could be that you have some air in the lines and/or out of adjustment brakes. You may have enough travel for gradual stops but run out of travel when pressing the brake hard. This is most noticable at a high speed hard stop. It will feel like brake fade. I've had that problem too. Hope everything works out for you. Its expensive to correctly convert a 109 with new parts, but I think well worth it. Its very hard to find correct used dual brake parts for a 109 in the States, and you could easily end up with the wrong PDWA or one that is gummed up and no longer functional. Just remember. 1984, 109 brake parts, except for your wheel cylinders, drums & shoes. Stay with your correct model year for those parts. Unless you want to go to the wider brake shoes that came on 1967 NADA 109s or later. I believe this will require a different brake plate, different wheel cylinders and different shoes. It is my inderstanding that they are harder to bleed, but that added to the dual power brake system would give you the best brake system that LR offered before they went to disk brakes. Take care and stop safely, TeriAnn Wakeman I will be away on a Land Rover photo expidition between Aug 23 and Nov 4. I will not be on the net during that time. ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 14:45:05 -0700 From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Subject: Re: Slave cylinder replacement At 11:32 AM 8/11/97 -0400, NADdMD@aol.com wrote: ;Hi all, ; >Question: Can I cross clamp the flex line to the clutch slave cylinder >without damage to it? This would mean a much easier bleeding job later but I >don't want to have to replace the flex line in a few months. ; >Thanks >Nate ; If you use vice grips or other clamp that is not made for brake lines, you can easily crush the inner hose and have early line failure. There are special brake clamps that have a space when clamped so that it does not crush the tubing. The only place I have found it is through Moss motors. 1-800-667-7872. Moss part # 386-855. They call it a clamp tool and it cost around US$10. TeriAnn Wakeman I will be away on a Land Rover photo expidition between Aug 23 and Nov 4. I will not be on the net during that time. ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 14:55:22 -0700 From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Subject: Re: Series IIA Gas Tank Replacement At 1:45 PM 8/11/97 -0400, Chris Stevens wrote: >The time has come to swap out a leaky tank for a new one and replace the >rusty front tank support bracket. Anyone done this before? Any advice? ; Chris, the aftermarket stamped tanks with a flange seal around the middle are strong and a LOT cheaper than the stock tank. Since the edges are rounded the capacity is slightly less. I fit 11.5 US gallons in each of the front tanks, and 18 gallons in the rear tank. Best not to use a gas welder when welding on a new outrigger. the thin metal making up the frame can be blown away from the joint from the pressure while welding. Best to use mig or tig. CHeck your filler and vent tubes to make sure that are not cracked. They might leak after the stress of removal and refitting. TeriAnn Wakeman I will be away on a Land Rover photo expidition between Aug 23 and Nov 4. I will not be on the net during that time. ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 16:23:59 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Four Wheeler Land Rover Page
At the the Risk of being Flamed-
Just want to let y'all know that Four Wheeler has finally linked
the my humble Land Rover page to their main site. Have a look. Some of you
already have seen it. Part of the deal is to answer your Land Rover tech
questions, so I'll do my best for you via the site.
http://www.fourwheeler.com
Enjoy!
Jim Allen
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]From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 19:21:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Front Oil Seals with FWH question Hi all, I noted decreased braking ability today. Checked around when I got home. Oil on the front drums. The seals were changed (supposedly) when the swivels were put on in Dec, but somehow I doubt it was done correctly. Question: Can I remove the hubs without removing the FWH part if I unlock them? These are superwinch FWH and are attached with teeny-weeny screws with an allen wrench head. I'd rather not worry about breaking them off. I can get my jointed socket on the driving member bolts without a problem. Nate (Guess I'll do the hubs AND the slave cylinder this weekend) ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RykRover@aol.com Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 20:09:09 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: SIIa for Sale got a D-90 , and work is slow (cash crunch) :^(, limited time for restoration RGDS,Rick ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 08:49:29 -0700
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: "Rally in the Valley" --upcoming event--
Invitation to all!!
Join us on Sept. 27-28 1997 for the "Rally in the Valley", hosted by
M.O.R.E.(Maritime Organization of Rover Enthusiasts).
Place: Kingston, in the Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia, Canada.
Early birds arrive Friday
Events: include the infamous "Phinney Mountain Rd" -incredible-
as well as other selected runs
Activities: Sight-seeing, Sat night corn boil,lies, awards,more lies,
and the possibility of a bit of swill in the ranks.
Camping on site**Free**, Bed & Breakfasts and Motels are in the area.
Cost: Registration is $15.00 per vehicle, also includes Corn Boil.
Make your plans now and come see beautiful Nova Scotia. Access can be by
Ferry from Bar Harbour or St.John, New Brunswick, or by Highway from New
Brunswick. Pre-Register would be most welcome.
For more info , e-mail me at < seitl@ns.sympatico.ca > "Rally Info" or
call John Cranfield at 1-902-765-4532
Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
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]From: rovah@agate.net Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 22:26:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Downeast Land Rover Club, River City Rally Just a note to remind you all that the River City Rally, our club's first event, will be over Labor Day weekend. Information regarding the event can be found at our website. I will ask that those who are planning on coming(even if not definite) please e-mail or phone me in advance so I can plan for lunch on Saturday. Cheers! John John Cassidy Bangor, Maine USA The Downeast Land Rover Club, <http://www.agate.net/~rovah/> X0 of the V(irtual)MFA 323th Cougars/Flying GSC's F/A-18 Hornet game 2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S 4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover-"Smedley," 1966 Series IIA 88", 1972 Series III 88"-"SWAMBO" ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 23:01:01 -0400 From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com> Subject: Re: 109 Upgrade to dual power brakes > >2. I have a diesel, would you know if it would produces enough > vacumn? > I do not have a clue. Poll pre-Defender diesel owners who have power > brakes on the main list. Diesels normally don't have throttles, and hence no manifold vacumn. LR used a throttle-like device to produce a vacumn on diesel Series LRs with power brakes. Previous discussions have indicated that it may be barely adequate when properly set up. An alternative is the electric vacumn pump used on early '80s GM products with diesels. It is a compact unit which runs on 12v. Other vehicles may use a similar device. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 23:18:47 -0400 From: defender@uscom.com (Cramer) Subject: ATTN: Kathy Baldwin (No LR Content) Kathy, If you're out there please send me your phone number, or call me regarding my '88 Range Rover. Brian Cramer 609-273-9708 ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 23:32:28 -0400 From: defender@uscom.com (Cramer) Subject: '88 Range Rover For Sale Cheap!! I have a 1988 Range Rover for sale. It is Portofino Red with Grey leather. Price is $8995 or best offer. Please e-mail or call for further info. Cheers, Brian Cramer (888)434-4678 office (609)273-9708 home '94 D90 (#1251) '90 RR County '73 SIII SWB '88 Range Rover (For Sale) ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 1997 10:38:50 +0100
From: mr@grant.media-gn.nl (Marc Rengers)
Subject: Re: Virus Hoaxes & The LRO
>> Well, we've had our virus warning e-mail, i guess it's time to discuss
>> free wheel hubs vs. non free wheel hubs again. :)
>What, and skip right over cup holders?
Yes, the cup holders.... and cool bee.. drinks.
Anyone who has experience with those electrical boxes wich keep 'm cool?
Or someone who built one with those Peltier-elements?
Right now it's 30 Celsius, and too hot to keep my drinks cool enough.
I'll wait while I'm going to buy some 50 kilometre electrical cord to help
me drive around with a cool fridge in the back.
Marc Rengers mr@grant.media-gn.nl
Westeremden, Holland http://minerva.media-gn.nl/landrover
Tel: (+31) 0596-551334 Pager: (+31) 06-59111461
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"(_)""""(_)" ""(_)"""""""(_)" ""(_)"""""""(_)"
SOLD !!!
1977 88" III 2.25 1987 110" 2.5 1968 109" 2.25
petrol 23-67-XB diesel RH-12-PF petrol unknown reg.
going to be Hardtop
and 300 TDi (it is already)
also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner International (great magazine)
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]From: "Joost Kramer" <j.kramer@Ehv.Tass.Philips.Com> Subject: Re: Virus Hoaxes & The LRO Date: Tue, 12 Aug 97 11:09:40 +0200 (DST) > Anyone who has experience with those electrical boxes wich keep 'm cool? > Or someone who built one with those Peltier-elements? Yes, I have a box with a peltier-element in my LR. The box gives room for 6 bottles and two of 1.5 liters. The temperature inside is about 7 degrees Celsius, with an ambiant temperature of 25. My battery is able to keep the box running for about 5 hours with the engine off (and still able to start properly). > Right now it's 30 Celsius, and too hot to keep my drinks cool enough. It's here in Eindhoven (Holland) close to 35 C! And my drinks are still cool. > I'll wait while I'm going to buy some 50 kilometre electrical cord to help > me drive around with a cool fridge in the back. My box is of electrolux, and cost me (new) fl 99,-. Joost Kramer LR 88" Station Series III 1980 ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970812 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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